Undoughtably this is the most comprehensive saw sled build video I’ve seen. Your presentation is as precise as your finished product. I’m not aware of another saw sled video that includes a good storage idea like your sled cart/caddy! That is a great option because it will take less floor space than wall space to store multiple sleds. Good ideas, great job. BTW, that was worth a good hammer twirl!
@@WorkshopCompanion I meant them! May I also ask what kind of animation software you used at minute 8:12? I'm an aspiring wood worker. I purchased an investment property with a detached garage built in the 1970's (?). The bones are good but much of the building is in disrepair. I'm going through the process of a stud down rehab to create my own workshop. I'm working through the electrical of the building and wanted to use the same animation to describe the home run diagram and circuitry. Thank you.
@@mehrrepairz For that particular animation, I used Sketchup with an "Animator" plugin. Sympathize on the building -- we restored a 100-year-old hangar for our shop/studio. Everything but the walls, windows, and a few rafters are new.
@@WorkshopCompanion Congratulations for that rework and recycle of an old building, Nick. Good size too. I've scanned the background of several of your videos, and I'm a little envious of you guys for having that much room.
Damn, this is probably the best table saw sled video on the platform right now! Definitely gonna do this ASAP to complement my existing sled. Thanks for putting out such a concise tutorial. Lots of ideas for me to consider.
Been woodworking for 9 years young. Dunno how I only came across you these past few months having thought I’d seen everyone who is anyone on YT. Now you’re the first port of call daily! Thank you for your content and awesome instruction.
I am a joiner by trade for many years now and even at 60 years old I still like watching videos about joinery you never know what you can learn and I must admit I did learn a few things and I like to see other people’s workshops the only thing I will say is about your converting Imperial into metric it’s millimetres in metres not centimetres l must admit when l go out to buy things at the shop here in the uk 🇬🇧 they put centimetre’s and feet which then I have to convert l was lucky when I grew up with my dad who was a joiner as well he would work in feet & inches and I would work in millimetres in metres so I had to learn to convert them? But it has had it been useful thanks for your advice and videos stay safe 👍😊
I agree - I grew up in the 50s and 60s so I used imperial but learnt metric and when I started work I worked with older guys who only knew imperial, so I can easily switch between the two systems (I even combine them when it suits me), but I was also taught to ignore centimetres . . . they are for cloth workers such as dressmakers and curtain makers . . . so I find myself “thinking” to convert when I hear ‘8 centimetres’ instead of 80 mil.
I don't even work with wood, much less own a saw, and I still really enjoy watching this channel because this sir has an extraordinary knack for explaining things.
I'm I'm the same boat. I do aspire to have a workshop of my own. Just something to use for hobbies. Regardless of whether I ever use what I learn in these videos, they're still such a pleasure to watch.
Another great video! One thing to add to UHMW, it's also "self lubricating" meaning you don't need any lubricants for preventing wear and you also don't need any lubricants in order to decrease friction between the mating surfaces. Also when tapping wood I always pour a good amount of CA into the threads and shoot some accelerator, then run the tap through again to clean up the threads, this will make the threads harder and won't strip so easily
I'm very new to wood working and have found your tutorials both in depth and calming you make it look like this is something I could quite easily achieve (in theory) testament to your skill as a tutor many thanks Tricia.
Thanks for sharing excellent information very thorough 5 for now you're new friend I look forward to hear from you KenThanks for sharing excellent information very thorough By for now, you're new friend I look forward to hear from you Ken
i am most of the way through this build. i didnt have any hardwood so i used 2 3/4 pieces of birch plywood i had left from some cabinets and it bowed a little so until i get some good hardwood it is on hold. i really enjoy Nicks videos and but his plans anytime i am building the project. my only question is how many knots you got on your head until you learned that hammer twirl?
Great video, thank you very much. About your auxiliary surface @23:30: Instead of one plate I've made two narrow stripes. The advantages: - you need less material for them - you need less storage space for them And as another benefit: Imagine you want a cutoff from a longer bar. Instead of placing the cutoff on the sled and the longer end of the bar on the right side of the blade (where you must have the space for it) it's more comfortable to place the longer end on the sled where you normally have the space. To do so you set your table fence to the desired extend, push the bar against it, hold it in place on the sled with your left hand (or clamp it), push away the fence with the other hand and then make the cut. But in this case your auxiliary surface may be too wide to set the fence to the desired extend for shorter cutoffs. No problem with the stripes, just use only one of them. 'Pro-Tip': Make the stop-block at the end of the stripe double as wide as the stripe itself. And then make a countersink at the other end of the stripe on the bottom side and glue a flat magnet in. Both the wider block and the magnet will prevent the stripe from sliding or shifting sideways. Works great for me. If you like the idea you make like to upload a short additional video about that?
What a superb presentation! No "ums" nor "ahs" and no waffle. Just clear instructions and reasoning to make a superbly versatile sled - and in both metric and imperial too. I haven't enjoyed a TH-cam video so much for a very long time! Subscribed!
Nick and his videos are always so amazing. The projects, and all the tips and tricks make you watch each video more than once, to make sure you get all the details. As they are all so useful, and can (and for us newbies surely WILL) save us from a lot of headaches and failed projects if we listen and do what Nick tells us. ❤ I (also) didn't know about threads (19:10). It will (also) make it so much easier for me in the future, and thank you VERY MUCH much for adding the metric measures. 👍 This sled will be one of my first projects when it gets a little warmer, and I can get back in my tiny and unheated workshop"! Tried to warm it up with a gas stove, and it worked, but it was like a sauna (very hot, very high humidity) and the wood didn't like it at all! And using an electric heater now our electric bills are about 30-50 percent higher in my country, is something my tiny budget simply refuses!! Especially if I want to use my power tools and not only hand tools... This would be stupid, as I've just ordered my very first bandsaw (not a cheap one!), to be able to make a coffee table with 4 different curved legs, like the one Nick made in a previous video that (also) inspired me so much! 👍 Stay safe, creative, and active, and let's make some sawdust ❤
I absolutely love you, and your style. Haha, you rock man, keep up the amazing work, thank you very much for all your hard work and incredible content!! Love seeing the Lennox multi lmao
Miter saws are great but they're limited to cuts around 45° or less. They're also unsafe for cutting small pieces. They're a dust collection nightmare and also take up a lot of space. If I had to get rid of one machine in my shop it would be my MS. I can't think of a single cut I can make with a MS that I can't make with my table saw, track saw, or circular saw.
I have watched several videos on tablesaw sleds and this one l wish to build. Why? It will do what l want, uses less material, weighs less than most thanks
This guy was incredible. I learned more every minute than I did from almost every other video I've watched of "woodworking" TH-camrs. Keep up the good work. And make more videos please
Detailed instructions on a magnificent saw sled delivered with comedic nuggets like, "it is not really that hard to make. It certainly easier than gluing your fingers back on".
When I get my first table saw, I will revisit this! This isn’t the first video of yours I’ve seen. You have a great presentation and reminds me of some great teachers I was blessed to have in school years ago.
We have a complete metalworking shop for our aircraft builds in the next room, off camera. It's amazing how often we borrow tools from one shop to the other.
At least one manufacturer tried something better than a miter gauge. I have a Ryobi BT 3000 which has a miter sled attachment included. It works great, unfortunately Ryobi discontinued this saw, so when it breaks I will have to build a sled for whatever saw I replace it with.
Excellent video, only one technical error. At 19:10 you said the metric bolt had 20 threads/ cm, I think you meant 0.5/mm. M3-0.5 x length Your graphic does show one turn would be 0.5mm. I also loved you plywood table video.
Great plans & videos as always !!! After purchasing the (adjustable) saw sled plans I noticed parts layouts & measurements above and beyond, for the router compass piece isn't listed as a part, jig or specs. Being a novice I think a 20" x 4" piece of thin plywood will work once trimmed to a tapered shape, trying to reverse-engineer what the video shows.
Just now at the ripe YOUNG age of, um eh, lets just say I am on top of the hill, have started working with wood. DAMN son why could your channel not existed some 20 years ago. lol. Keep up the good work my friend.
I have watched many sled videos on TH-cam and built 2 of my own. But your methods beat most others I have seen. I have a large capacity sled which is really heavy to manhandle especially with the arthritis in my fingers, so I will make your adjustable "half" sled next and make it smaller so it will be easier for me to cope with. Many thanks for sharing your approach. Excellent video!
I've had too subscribe, I feel a once in two thousand year event coming on and I need to prepare. Thankyou Sir. A fine explanation of damn near everything...ever. 👍😁
@24:22 -- "This scale won't be precise in all circumstances. It may change if you change saw blades." Which is why I built my sleds for the left side of the blade instead of the right. No matter what blade I use, the shoulder on the arbor never changes position, while the width of the blade or dado stack always extends to the right.
Big fan of Nick, the plywood cutting/handling plans have turned out to be great for a one man shop. purchased these plans and plan on doing it within the next week. edit. i am waiting for the tutorial on the hammer spin without getting knots on my head :)
I'm delighted to have just found your channel. Eloquent, concise information presented with enthusiastic clarity. Even better, no dreadful library music or gimmicks. I'm a relative beginner and look forward to watching all your vids. Thank you very much for making the effort. Cheers from the UK.
I prefer making a sled for each angle. Then I don't have to spend time figuring what angle is right. Slap a sled down, cut the right angle. Repead for a different angle. May not be everyone/s cuppa, but I prefer it.
I have a couple of your books that I cut years ago, but the humorous asides in your videos are just great. As with your books, the videos are thorough and detailed. Thanks much
Without a doubt the best sled how-to that I've seen. Details, all the little details missing from other videos. Correct names for the fasteners as well as the reasons each was used. On top of all that, metrics as well. Even if you don't live in that part of the world. Excellent work.
I was so impressed with this video I subscribed to your channel. As soon as I can I want to make this sled. It will take me a few weeks, as I have a lot of problems medically as I am taking chemo for primary liver cancer. So, bear with me, as I really like your sled better than any other I have seen.
"Theres even a slot for your semi retired miter gauge " and that smirk was hilarious. Just came across this channel and wow, did I hit a goldmine of information. Thank you!
Best sled vid on TH-cam! Bravo, Sir! Bravo! It’s rare for me to watch a video then immediately watch it again, but that’s exactly what I’m about to do.
Another little oddity that might help some, when making those little adjusters, if use a center drilled jar lid of appropriate size {pinched on with a nut pair, makes it easier to get a hold on.
Masterly overview. The basic problem is the saw itself- the left hand side of the table should slide, completely solving the problem. Available, but rare.
There is also a type of sliding table saw in which the entire carriage slides forward and the work remains stationary on the table. Also rare, maybe rare-er. Shopsmith offered one for a while, but it was too much of an odd duck to catch on. Thanks for the kind words.
Fantastic video, very well done, and extremely clear instruction. I have enjoyed the last couple of videos even more having gone through the Workshop Companion books recently. The videos bring the details to life in a very useful way. I don't think it was mentioned directly, but I assume the design of the far support for the plastic guard is such that it can be removed so the sled could accommodate wider panels? Also, I can't help but drawing comparisons between this design and the Dubby. I would be interested to know the origin of this design and how it relates to the Dubby, which seems to have come to market several years after the books were published.
@@WorkshopCompanion I assume you refer to my Dubby question. If this video enjoys the size of audience I think it will in the coming days, I assume many others will have the same observation.
Stuff like this is why I don't get why euro-style table saws haven't taken off more here in the US. There are many manufacturers out there who make them in all price ranges, and also include things like dado support, small to large footprints, better blade braking, better material support and clamping, much easier blade changes, designs that don't encourage you to remove your riving knife, etc. For many tasks, the design is just so much more convenient than what we're used to here.
Even though I am subscribed I’ve just come across this video. I’m a newbie woodworker & am unhappy with the CC sled I’ve made. I’m going to try yours, it’ll take me to the edge of my ability but I can see the immense advantages. Complements on the clarity of the instructions & a special thanks for including metric measurements. Thank you & greetings from Australia.
Nick, your videos are clear, easy to follow and delivered in a very interesting way. Providing inch and mm as you discuss the sizing, is very, very, very helpful. Thoughtful!! Love this particularly. Thanks a million for sharing :)
This is great! I just made a basic crosscut sled, and now I'm already planning it's upgrade / replacement... Thanks for the great tips and advice. Very logical and organized presentation. No wasted time...
Nick, you put together a good show. I hope you don't mind if I put in my two cents worth. I like acclimating newly acquired lumber to my this region and my shop by standing it on end and separated from other sticks so ambient moisture air circulates over all surfaces. I live in dry country. Here almost all lumber shrinks and distorts as it dries but there's not much point in jointing, planing and ripping until the lumber has reached equilibrium moisture content with local conditions. Also, there's plastics and then there's plastics. Avoid acrylic sheet. It is brittle and will often crack when tightened with a screw and splinter under impact. The light weight stuff sold in the hardware store for storm door glazing is okay, cheapest but flimsy. Given the a supplier and some extra cash, nominal 1/8" and 1/4" polycarbonate is the stuff to keep on hand. Lexan is the most common brand but many other manufacturers now cast it. Polycarbonate is the key word. Greater thicknesses are used for "bullet proof" glass.
Thanks for sharing, and I have two things to add. I warn my students not to let their wood stand on end for very long, Or, if they must, make sure the wood is straight up and down. Wood, like plastic, will creep under the force of gravity and take on a permanent bow. Second, both acrylic and polycarbonate have their place. Acrylic may be brittle, but it has a high modulus of elasticity. A router plate (for a router table) made from polycarbonate will flex, acrylic is stiff enough to resist and remains flat. It all depends on what you want to use the plastic for.
Occasionally, very occasionally, you'll stumble upon a little nugget of gold sneakily disguised in the form of a TH-cam video that makes you say, "Oooooooooh". This is one of these videos. Perfectly executed in every way and will be the first jig that I make (once I pull my finger out) 👍
I watched this last night and as usual was mesmerised by your skills and light hearted but very effective teaching. However there was a little thing in the back of my head gnawing away at me and kept me awake. Then at 3:30 in the morning - UK time it woke me up and it was all about measuring along the fence using your stick on tape. With the fence at 90° the measure is accurate and you correctly mentioned compensating for the saw kerf if you change the blade but didn't touch on the bigger problem of measuring the distance once you angle the fence. As you push the fence away it pivots around the bolt nearest the cutting edge and since the fence has width the leading corner nearest the blade follows an arc effectively around the radius centred on the pivot centre and the diagonal to the leading corner of the fence. As it follows this arc, the corner extends into the cutting side and at around 35° reaches a maximum and as you continue beyond that it starts to come back towards the cutting line. As you continue increasing the angle, the leading corner continues to back, and around 50° degrees comes in line with the cutting edge and at 60° is well back from the cutting line. Being geeky I did some calculations using a fence 50mm (just under 2")wide, pivoted at its centre 50mm from the cutting edge. At 35° it had extended to the maximum into the cutting side by 6mm (just under 1/4"), thus shortening the length of the cut. It then starts to come back. At around 53° is back to the original length but at 60° however it has backed away from cut line and effectively increased the cut length by 7mm (a little over 1/4"). So depending on the width/depth of the fence and pivot point, the taped on measure will only be accurate at 90° and one other angle. Any ideas on how to compensate?
All tools have their limitations, and this is just one of the sled's. Another is that the the tape becomes inaccurate if you change saw blades and the width of the blade changes . In many cases, the tape can only be considered as a reference, not as a source of final measurement. In this wise, it's no different than the scales and quadrants that many manufacturers put on their tools. They will get you close, but not all the way there. One of the most important jobs you have as a craftsman is to discern the limitations of your tools, and learn to work within them or around them.
I don't know about imperial threads, but with the M3 fine adjustment set screw if the stop is handled roughly the thread inside the stop block could easily be stripped out with it being only 0.25 mm deep. A similar, but slightly coarser result, can be acheived using an M6 bolt which has a 1mm thread pitch rather than a 0.5mm thread pitch and a thread depth inside the stop block of 0.5mm.
#8-32 machine screws also have a very shallow pitch and are similar to an M3 in that respect. But a hard fine-grained wood such as maple or birch will hold the threads well enough to last. The trick is to cut the threads perpendicular to the grain direction, never parallel -- for the same reason that you shouldn't drive screws parallel to the wood grain. I make these adjustable stops for most of my jigs, and I have some that have been kicking around since the 1990s that are still perfectly serviceable. The one on my favorite sled, in fact, is 30 years old, gets used every week, and works well. They get loose from time to time, but there are several organic chemicals you can use to permanently swell the wood and tighten them up. These go by names like Wonderlok and ChaiRX, and are normally sold for chair repair.
In any archive of human knowledge, this man's entire video catalog deserves to be preserved above most anything else on TH-cam or news article.
Undoughtably this is the most comprehensive saw sled build video I’ve seen. Your presentation is as precise as your finished product. I’m not aware of another saw sled video that includes a good storage idea like your sled cart/caddy! That is a great option because it will take less floor space than wall space to store multiple sleds. Good ideas, great job. BTW, that was worth a good hammer twirl!
Many thanks.
undoubtedly*
@@christopherdean1326 no he's taking about making pizza. It's undoughtably
@@RoshDroz talking?
@@WorkshopCompanion yeah this sled is definitely not some half-baked TH-camr idea. It will definitely see some yeast on the shop flour.
Terrific content, production quality, and clearly a knowledgeable teacher. Well done 🙏🏽
Thanks for the kind words.
@@WorkshopCompanion I meant them! May I also ask what kind of animation software you used at minute 8:12? I'm an aspiring wood worker. I purchased an investment property with a detached garage built in the 1970's (?). The bones are good but much of the building is in disrepair. I'm going through the process of a stud down rehab to create my own workshop. I'm working through the electrical of the building and wanted to use the same animation to describe the home run diagram and circuitry. Thank you.
@@mehrrepairz For that particular animation, I used Sketchup with an "Animator" plugin. Sympathize on the building -- we restored a 100-year-old hangar for our shop/studio. Everything but the walls, windows, and a few rafters are new.
@@WorkshopCompanion Congratulations for that rework and recycle of an old building, Nick. Good size too. I've scanned the background of several of your videos, and I'm a little envious of you guys for having that much room.
gotta love that hammer spin around the finger too hahahah
Damn, this is probably the best table saw sled video on the platform right now! Definitely gonna do this ASAP to complement my existing sled. Thanks for putting out such a concise tutorial. Lots of ideas for me to consider.
Thanks for saying.
This is a great tutorial with some of the clearest explanations and best ideas I've seen in a while. Thank you!
Most welcome.
Been woodworking for 9 years young. Dunno how I only came across you these past few months having thought I’d seen everyone who is anyone on YT. Now you’re the first port of call daily! Thank you for your content and awesome instruction.
Most welcome -- and thank you for the kind words.
I really appreciate you including metic measurements! Great channel too!
We kinda have to -- only a third of our audience thinks in inches. Thanks for saying.
@@WorkshopCompanion it’s still kind from you and I thank you as well.
Terrific table saw sled build Nick! Great presentation & instruction as usual. Well done! 👍👏😉
Thanks for saying.
I am a joiner by trade for many years now and even at 60 years old I still like watching videos about joinery you never know what you can learn and I must admit I did learn a few things and I like to see other people’s workshops the only thing I will say is about your converting Imperial into metric it’s millimetres in metres not centimetres l must admit when l go out to buy things at the shop here in the uk 🇬🇧 they put centimetre’s and feet which then I have to convert l was lucky when I grew up with my dad who was a joiner as well he would work in feet & inches and I would work in millimetres in metres so I had to learn to convert them? But it has had it been useful thanks for your advice and videos stay safe 👍😊
I agree - I grew up in the 50s and 60s so I used imperial but learnt metric and when I started work I worked with older guys who only knew imperial, so I can easily switch between the two systems (I even combine them when it suits me), but I was also taught to ignore centimetres . . . they are for cloth workers such as dressmakers and curtain makers . . . so I find myself “thinking” to convert when I hear ‘8 centimetres’ instead of 80 mil.
I don't even work with wood, much less own a saw, and I still really enjoy watching this channel because this sir has an extraordinary knack for explaining things.
Well explaned thanks for all the details
I'm I'm the same boat. I do aspire to have a workshop of my own. Just something to use for hobbies. Regardless of whether I ever use what I learn in these videos, they're still such a pleasure to watch.
Not just the explanation, but his delivery and voice too. He's nice to listen to.
Another great video! One thing to add to UHMW, it's also "self lubricating" meaning you don't need any lubricants for preventing wear and you also don't need any lubricants in order to decrease friction between the mating surfaces. Also when tapping wood I always pour a good amount of CA into the threads and shoot some accelerator, then run the tap through again to clean up the threads, this will make the threads harder and won't strip so easily
One good piece of information; one exceptionally good tip. Thanks for sharing.
I'm very new to wood working and have found your tutorials both in depth and calming you make it look like this is something I could quite easily achieve (in theory) testament to your skill as a tutor many thanks Tricia.
Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks for sharing excellent information very thorough 5 for now you're new friend I look forward to hear from you KenThanks for sharing excellent information very thorough By for now, you're new friend I look forward to hear from you Ken
i am most of the way through this build. i didnt have any hardwood so i used 2 3/4 pieces of birch plywood i had left from some cabinets and it bowed a little so until i get some good hardwood it is on hold. i really enjoy Nicks videos and but his plans anytime i am building the project. my only question is how many knots you got on your head until you learned that hammer twirl?
Thanks for all the great tips Nick! Sleds are such an asset for a table saw.
Most welcome.
Great video, thank you very much.
About your auxiliary surface @23:30: Instead of one plate I've made two narrow stripes.
The advantages:
- you need less material for them
- you need less storage space for them
And as another benefit: Imagine you want a cutoff from a longer bar. Instead of placing the cutoff on the sled and the longer end of the bar on the right side of the blade (where you must have the space for it) it's more comfortable to place the longer end on the sled where you normally have the space. To do so you set your table fence to the desired extend, push the bar against it, hold it in place on the sled with your left hand (or clamp it), push away the fence with the other hand and then make the cut. But in this case your auxiliary surface may be too wide to set the fence to the desired extend for shorter cutoffs. No problem with the stripes, just use only one of them.
'Pro-Tip': Make the stop-block at the end of the stripe double as wide as the stripe itself. And then make a countersink at the other end of the stripe on the bottom side and glue a flat magnet in. Both the wider block and the magnet will prevent the stripe from sliding or shifting sideways.
Works great for me.
If you like the idea you make like to upload a short additional video about that?
All good ideas, and thanks for sharing. Our video schedule is set for the foreseeable future, but we'll keep this in mind.
What a superb presentation! No "ums" nor "ahs" and no waffle. Just clear instructions and reasoning to make a superbly versatile sled - and in both metric and imperial too. I haven't enjoyed a TH-cam video so much for a very long time! Subscribed!
Thanks...and welcome!
What an incredible video. Great job on explaining the process.
Nick and his videos are always so amazing.
The projects, and all the tips and tricks make you watch each video more than once, to make sure you get all the details.
As they are all so useful, and can (and for us newbies surely WILL) save us from a lot of headaches and failed projects if we listen and do what Nick tells us. ❤
I (also) didn't know about threads (19:10). It will (also) make it so much easier for me in the future, and thank you VERY MUCH much for adding the metric measures. 👍
This sled will be one of my first projects when it gets a little warmer, and I can get back in my tiny and unheated workshop"! Tried to warm it up with a gas stove, and it worked, but it was like a sauna (very hot, very high humidity) and the wood didn't like it at all!
And using an electric heater now our electric bills are about 30-50 percent higher in my country, is something my tiny budget simply refuses!!
Especially if I want to use my power tools and not only hand tools...
This would be stupid, as I've just ordered my very first bandsaw (not a cheap one!), to be able to make a coffee table with 4 different curved legs, like the one Nick made in a previous video that (also) inspired me so much! 👍
Stay safe, creative, and active, and let's make some sawdust ❤
Thanks for all those kind words.
I absolutely love you, and your style. Haha, you rock man, keep up the amazing work, thank you very much for all your hard work and incredible content!!
Love seeing the Lennox multi lmao
They're the best, aren't they? Thanks.
This definitively is the best tablesaw sled and the best explanation I have ever seen on TH-cam. And I have seen many. Thank you so much for sharing.
Love your videos. Smart, informative and entertaining. I always learn something from your videos.
Manufacturers have indeed come up with something that works well for cross cuts. A miter saw.
Miter saws are great but they're limited to cuts around 45° or less. They're also unsafe for cutting small pieces. They're a dust collection nightmare and also take up a lot of space. If I had to get rid of one machine in my shop it would be my MS. I can't think of a single cut I can make with a MS that I can't make with my table saw, track saw, or circular saw.
I bought a cheap table saw at a garage sale. I made a double sided sled and made every cabinet in my house. Best tool I have had now over 10 years.
Outstanding explanation and demonstration of this jig, it’s on my “to build list”!
Thanks for aying.
I have watched several videos on tablesaw sleds and this one l wish to build. Why? It will do what l want, uses less material, weighs less than most thanks
Most welcome.
Wow. I wish he taught MY high school shop class. I probably would've learned more.
This is another awesome resource. I just purchased the plans, well worth it and it supports this great content.
Thanks for saying.
This guy was incredible. I learned more every minute than I did from almost every other video I've watched of "woodworking" TH-camrs. Keep up the good work. And make more videos please
We're trying. Thanks for your kind words.
Yea I’m going to build ☝️
This guy is the “Rainman” of woodworking. He throws out knowledge bombs like Raymond counted cards.
Detailed instructions on a magnificent saw sled delivered with comedic nuggets like, "it is not really that hard to make. It certainly easier than gluing your fingers back on".
Are you certain you were thorough enough? I now understand a little more than I did before. That’s great.
When I get my first table saw, I will revisit this! This isn’t the first video of yours I’ve seen. You have a great presentation and reminds me of some great teachers I was blessed to have in school years ago.
👍👍👍👍👍👍🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍
The only WW I've seen using transfer punches, awesome job! great tutorial. Appreciate you not trying to sell me a bunch of product.
We have a complete metalworking shop for our aircraft builds in the next room, off camera. It's amazing how often we borrow tools from one shop to the other.
I love your videos and your style of teaching. Thank you so much for taking the time to produce and share this video with us.
You are so welcome!
At least one manufacturer tried something better than a miter gauge. I have a Ryobi BT 3000 which has a miter sled attachment included. It works great, unfortunately Ryobi discontinued this saw, so when it breaks I will have to build a sled for whatever saw I replace it with.
Excellent video, only one technical error. At 19:10 you said the metric bolt had 20 threads/ cm, I think you meant 0.5/mm.
M3-0.5 x length Your graphic does show one turn would be 0.5mm. I also loved you plywood table video.
Great plans & videos as always !!! After purchasing the (adjustable) saw sled plans I noticed parts layouts & measurements above and beyond, for the router compass piece isn't listed as a part, jig or specs. Being a novice I think a 20" x 4" piece of thin plywood will work once trimmed to a tapered shape, trying to reverse-engineer what the video shows.
Just now at the ripe YOUNG age of, um eh, lets just say I am on top of the hill, have started working with wood. DAMN son why could your channel not existed some 20 years ago. lol. Keep up the good work my friend.
exceptional video.
He is soo good! Makes me wanna start making some jigs, stops & clamps!
Sir you are an excellent instructor! I could listen to you talk about tools all day lol.... Nice job my friend!
Thanks for those kind words.
Brilliantly explained
I have watched many sled videos on TH-cam and built 2 of my own. But your methods beat most others I have seen. I have a large capacity sled which is really heavy to manhandle especially with the arthritis in my fingers, so I will make your adjustable "half" sled next and make it smaller so it will be easier for me to cope with. Many thanks for sharing your approach. Excellent video!
You're most welcome, and thanks for sharing.
Love your use of both imperial and metric measurements. By far the best woodworking channel I’ve come across.
Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks a lot for imparting such a useful knowledge based on lengthy experience. Lots of love and respect from Pakistan.🇵🇰
Nick,
How would you do this for the shopsmith?
Did one of these for Shopsmith many years ago -- much the same way I made this.
Thank you so much that was wonderful
Most welcome.
I've had too subscribe, I feel a once in two thousand year event coming on and I need to prepare. Thankyou Sir. A fine explanation of damn near everything...ever. 👍😁
Excellent & most Informative. Greetings & Thanks from Ireland.
@24:22 -- "This scale won't be precise in all circumstances. It may change if you change saw blades."
Which is why I built my sleds for the left side of the blade instead of the right. No matter what blade I use, the shoulder on the arbor never changes position, while the width of the blade or dado stack always extends to the right.
Big fan of Nick, the plywood cutting/handling plans have turned out to be great for a one man shop. purchased these plans and plan on doing it within the next week.
edit. i am waiting for the tutorial on the hammer spin without getting knots on my head :)
I'm delighted to have just found your channel. Eloquent, concise information presented with enthusiastic clarity. Even better, no dreadful library music or gimmicks. I'm a relative beginner and look forward to watching all your vids. Thank you very much for making the effort. Cheers from the UK.
Thanks from Ohio.
I prefer making a sled for each angle. Then I don't have to spend time figuring what angle is right. Slap a sled down, cut the right angle. Repead for a different angle. May not be everyone/s cuppa, but I prefer it.
I have a couple of your books that I cut years ago, but the humorous asides in your videos are just great. As with your books, the videos are thorough and detailed. Thanks much
Most welcome. And thanks for the kind words.
I appreciate the time, effort and consideration you put into this channel. 🙏
Without a doubt the best sled how-to that I've seen. Details, all the little details missing from other videos. Correct names for the fasteners as well as the reasons each was used. On top of all that, metrics as well. Even if you don't live in that part of the world. Excellent work.
Thanks for saying.
Great teacher.
Thank you Sir
Easy way to measure the sled’s effectiveness on a 1-100 scale is to multiply the number of carpenter fingers by 10.
👍
I was so impressed with this video I subscribed to your channel. As soon as I can I want to make this sled. It will take me a few weeks, as I have a lot of problems medically as I am taking chemo for primary liver cancer. So, bear with me, as I really like your sled better than any other I have seen.
Great video!
Well great! Just what I need. Another “must do” shop project 😎. Thanks for absolutely great concept and presentation.
Most welcome.
"Theres even a slot for your semi retired miter gauge " and that smirk was hilarious.
Just came across this channel and wow, did I hit a goldmine of information. Thank you!
Most welcome.
Best sled vid on TH-cam! Bravo, Sir! Bravo! It’s rare for me to watch a video then immediately watch it again, but that’s exactly what I’m about to do.
Thanks -- enjoy!
i love watching your videos. Thank You So Very Much for making this video. :)
Most welcome.
Another little oddity that might help some, when making those little adjusters, if use a center drilled jar lid of appropriate size {pinched on with a nut pair, makes it easier to get a hold on.
Great tip.
Excellent video! Thank you very much for producing such fine content, I'm looking forward to your next one!
Thanks.
Loved it. Thanks!
Most welcome.
Brilliant!
Excellent!
Masterly overview.
The basic problem is the saw itself- the left hand side of the table should slide, completely solving the problem. Available, but rare.
There is also a type of sliding table saw in which the entire carriage slides forward and the work remains stationary on the table. Also rare, maybe rare-er. Shopsmith offered one for a while, but it was too much of an odd duck to catch on. Thanks for the kind words.
great information and presentation.
Thanks.
25:08 Thor
Fantastic video, very well done, and extremely clear instruction. I have enjoyed the last couple of videos even more having gone through the Workshop Companion books recently. The videos bring the details to life in a very useful way.
I don't think it was mentioned directly, but I assume the design of the far support for the plastic guard is such that it can be removed so the sled could accommodate wider panels?
Also, I can't help but drawing comparisons between this design and the Dubby. I would be interested to know the origin of this design and how it relates to the Dubby, which seems to have come to market several years after the books were published.
You noticed that too?
@@WorkshopCompanion I assume you refer to my Dubby question. If this video enjoys the size of audience I think it will in the coming days, I assume many others will have the same observation.
hi quick question from down under in Oz, why does the double sled have, or need a back fence ? cheers frank
"Easier than gluing your fingers back on" Brilliant 😆😅🤣😂
I did figure it out. I think my next tweak will be to add smaller increments to the face and add sliding tightening screw.
Stuff like this is why I don't get why euro-style table saws haven't taken off more here in the US. There are many manufacturers out there who make them in all price ranges, and also include things like dado support, small to large footprints, better blade braking, better material support and clamping, much easier blade changes, designs that don't encourage you to remove your riving knife, etc. For many tasks, the design is just so much more convenient than what we're used to here.
Either he has had a lot of accidents or he possibly has a second job working for an insurer.
Birdy
..."it's certainly easier than gluing your fingers back on."
Brilliant! Shakespeares leanguage... And the purest presentation of the material!!! And of course very warm. 20 score of 10 possible!!!
Thank ye.
@@WorkshopCompanion , put your "ye" in my vocabulary!
What a man! Amazing presentation!
Simply a great vid and easy to follow. Keep ‘em coming!
Will do.
Even though I am subscribed I’ve just come across this video. I’m a newbie woodworker & am unhappy with the CC sled I’ve made. I’m going to try yours, it’ll take me to the edge of my ability but I can see the immense advantages. Complements on the clarity of the instructions & a special thanks for including metric measurements. Thank you & greetings from Australia.
Most welcome from Ohio.
Nick, your videos are clear, easy to follow and delivered in a very interesting way. Providing inch and mm as you discuss the sizing, is very, very, very helpful. Thoughtful!! Love this particularly. Thanks a million for sharing :)
Most welcome.
I appreciate your time and effort making these videos. You are a terrific teacher and I enjoy your presentation style! Thank you.
Most welcome.
I wonder how much accuracy is lost if you don't get your screw perpendicular to the wood?
This is great! I just made a basic crosscut sled, and now I'm already planning it's upgrade / replacement... Thanks for the great tips and advice. Very logical and organized presentation. No wasted time...
Most welcome. Good luck.
He said “overmuch”! 3:01
I think it’s a cool word
Thank you for your effort and awesome tips, especially safety ones 🤣
Most welcome.
17:40 why not just permanently attach a stop block in the step before making the arcs?
Loved the content, the delivery, and that damn hammer swing. My goodness
Nick, you put together a good show. I hope you don't mind if I put in my two cents worth. I like acclimating newly acquired lumber to my this region and my shop by standing it on end and separated from other sticks so ambient moisture air circulates over all surfaces. I live in dry country. Here almost all lumber shrinks and distorts as it dries but there's not much point in jointing, planing and ripping until the lumber has reached equilibrium moisture content with local conditions. Also, there's plastics and then there's plastics. Avoid acrylic sheet. It is brittle and will often crack when tightened with a screw and splinter under impact. The light weight stuff sold in the hardware store for storm door glazing is okay, cheapest but flimsy. Given the a supplier and some extra cash, nominal 1/8" and 1/4" polycarbonate is the stuff to keep on hand. Lexan is the most common brand but many other manufacturers now cast it. Polycarbonate is the key word. Greater thicknesses are used for "bullet proof" glass.
Thanks for sharing, and I have two things to add. I warn my students not to let their wood stand on end for very long, Or, if they must, make sure the wood is straight up and down. Wood, like plastic, will creep under the force of gravity and take on a permanent bow. Second, both acrylic and polycarbonate have their place. Acrylic may be brittle, but it has a high modulus of elasticity. A router plate (for a router table) made from polycarbonate will flex, acrylic is stiff enough to resist and remains flat. It all depends on what you want to use the plastic for.
Occasionally, very occasionally, you'll stumble upon a little nugget of gold sneakily disguised in the form of a TH-cam video that makes you say, "Oooooooooh". This is one of these videos.
Perfectly executed in every way and will be the first jig that I make (once I pull my finger out) 👍
Thanks for those kind words.
I watched this last night and as usual was mesmerised by your skills and light hearted but very effective teaching. However there was a little thing in the back of my head gnawing away at me and kept me awake. Then at 3:30 in the morning - UK time it woke me up and it was all about measuring along the fence using your stick on tape. With the fence at 90° the measure is accurate and you correctly mentioned compensating for the saw kerf if you change the blade but didn't touch on the bigger problem of measuring the distance once you angle the fence.
As you push the fence away it pivots around the bolt nearest the cutting edge and since the fence has width the leading corner nearest the blade follows an arc effectively around the radius centred on the pivot centre and the diagonal to the leading corner of the fence. As it follows this arc, the corner extends into the cutting side and at around 35° reaches a maximum and as you continue beyond that it starts to come back towards the cutting line. As you continue increasing the angle, the leading corner continues to back, and around 50° degrees comes in line with the cutting edge and at 60° is well back from the cutting line.
Being geeky I did some calculations using a fence 50mm (just under 2")wide, pivoted at its centre 50mm from the cutting edge. At 35° it had extended to the maximum into the cutting side by 6mm (just under 1/4"), thus shortening the length of the cut. It then starts to come back. At around 53° is back to the original length but at 60° however it has backed away from cut line and effectively increased the cut length by 7mm (a little over 1/4").
So depending on the width/depth of the fence and pivot point, the taped on measure will only be accurate at 90° and one other angle.
Any ideas on how to compensate?
All tools have their limitations, and this is just one of the sled's. Another is that the the tape becomes inaccurate if you change saw blades and the width of the blade changes . In many cases, the tape can only be considered as a reference, not as a source of final measurement. In this wise, it's no different than the scales and quadrants that many manufacturers put on their tools. They will get you close, but not all the way there. One of the most important jobs you have as a craftsman is to discern the limitations of your tools, and learn to work within them or around them.
I don't know about imperial threads, but with the M3 fine adjustment set screw if the stop is handled roughly the thread inside the stop block could easily be stripped out with it being only 0.25 mm deep.
A similar, but slightly coarser result, can be acheived using an M6 bolt which has a 1mm thread pitch rather than a 0.5mm thread pitch and a thread depth inside the stop block of 0.5mm.
#8-32 machine screws also have a very shallow pitch and are similar to an M3 in that respect. But a hard fine-grained wood such as maple or birch will hold the threads well enough to last. The trick is to cut the threads perpendicular to the grain direction, never parallel -- for the same reason that you shouldn't drive screws parallel to the wood grain. I make these adjustable stops for most of my jigs, and I have some that have been kicking around since the 1990s that are still perfectly serviceable. The one on my favorite sled, in fact, is 30 years old, gets used every week, and works well. They get loose from time to time, but there are several organic chemicals you can use to permanently swell the wood and tighten them up. These go by names like Wonderlok and ChaiRX, and are normally sold for chair repair.