How to Repair a Heat Exchanger /Insulate an Exhaust Riser:Yanmar Engine-Patrick Childress Sailing 44
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2019
- Patrick Childress Sailing demonstrates how to Repair, Rebuild, Replace our Yanmar 4JH3E marine Heat Exchanger & exhaust Riser on our cruising sailboat. Also, how to insulate the new marine exhaust riser on our Yanmar 4JH3 Diesel engine. the old insulation was asbestos, but this new exhaust wrap is not.
In this sailboat repair video, sailor Patrick Childress removes the old heat exchanger and the marine exhaust riser and brings it to a heat exchanger shop recommended to us called Empengani Progress, close to Richards Bay South Africa. They say they can rebuild the Heat Exchanger to like new condition. A new marine heat exchanger from Yanmar would cost $3000-$4000. Yanni Enterprises in Zululand Yacht Club boat yard made us a new exhaust riser out of 316 and 304 Stainless steel. It wasn’t cheap, but it was very well made and needed very little coercion to fit it back on to the heat exchanger of our Yanmar 4JH3E Diesel engine.
Empengani Progress shows how to take apart the heat exchanger. They then cleaned it all out, welded and rebuilt deteriorated parts of the Corroded cap on the heat exchanger, reusing the core, and then put it all back together again,pressure tested it, and then charged us a very reasonable rate too! Much cheaper than a new heat exchanger! it is always difficult to decide whether to replace or repair a heat exchanger.
Once the new exhaust riser was fabricated, Patrick reinstalls it. Because Patrick had removed all of the asbestos insulation on the old marine riser, we had to find a new material to insulate the new exhaust riser, and find out how to insulate a marine riser.
There were many Yanmar spare parts that we needed for this rebuild, and we fell back on our old source in the USA, Toad Marine Supply (aka MarineDieselDirect.com, LaserSailingDirect.com, SunfishDirect.com, BoatDollyDirect.com, and Torresen Marine Inc). They are always responsive to emails, and double check everything with part diagrams to be sure we are all talking about the same engine part. They ship Yanmar, Westerbeke, Universal and Volvo Penta Diesel engine spare parts all over the world, as well as other marine supplies, very quickly and very correctly.
Their website is toadmarinesupply.com/
Their email address is customerservice@toadmarinesupply.com
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Few veteran oceans cruisers do hard core maintenance videos that have the clarity, brevity, practical explanation, and focus on getting the project done that Patrick does. One of Le Vagabonde's best videos was how to install a water-maker on a monohull, Riley did a good job but with a background in offshore oil work, he had confidence. I think of Patrick as the Dean of the School of Cruiser maintenance. So, I was surprised when that locally sourced fiberglass wouldn't dry & sympathetic as to why Patrick tried local sourcing, he has faith in people. Your videos are really clear in terms of communicating the message and on boats the message is more boat maintenance is almost always needed. So, I encourage you two to keep presenting content on maintenance.
UUBrahman...thanks for the compliment...Patrick is out working hard again today and this will be a nice comment to come back in to after many hours of work. -Rebecca
What a great person. Miss his constant optimism. Rest in peace.
Yes I nurse that too… he was very positive.
I really admire this man. So knowledgable. So ambitious and eager to do the work and share his knowledge. It really is a shame that an evil virus took such a good man. He will be missed by many.
Thank you..yes he was so ambitious. And eager to share his knowledge. Very very missed.
Please leave us a comment...is this boring stuff, or do you want to see more hardcore repair videos like this one...or do you enjoy the sailing tips more?
If we can get enough comments that you like this kind of video, we will do more..otherwise not...we don’t want to bore you! -Rebecca
I like them both, with a slight bias towards the the hardcore repair and technical videos. But I am an engineering student, no surprise there.
Dorjän Scott Thanks for replying! If you are an engineering student, and a sailor, I wonder...will you design sailboat things? -Rebecca
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife I'm new to sailing and most of my experience is aerospace, but i am seriously considering marine engineering!
I know how to sail and site-see far better than fix things on a boat, Soooo
Keep the hard core stuff coming!
I enjoy your repair videos the most. You're doing a great job with your running commentary, including tips like the orientation of hose clamps. Thanks for making your videos!
I moved from Montreal to Vancouver in 1975. Started 7 years with Volvo Penta and then 23 years with Yanmar. A good product and worked in parts, service and warranties. Now in Toronto. I came across this instructional here and enjoyed it. Sorry to hear about your loss Rebecca. I feel Patrick was a kind, gentle and knowledgeable man. Bravo Zulu
Yes he definitely was all that! Thanks
Awesome video. I appreciate his knowledge being archived.
Thanks so much for watching. I won’t ever take it down… he wanted it to be a resource… he had so much more to teach…
Keep the repair videos coming. We all know that owning a boat is about maintenance and repair so your videos are much appreciated. Thanks.
Ah...good...glad we are on the right track...it’s always a question if this will work for just a few people or a lot. I’m glad we are getting a positive response so far. Thanks for your comment, -Rebecca
I enjoy videos like this.
Learned an other few things again, thank you.
Thanks for the reply and compliment! -Rebecca
Great video. It looks like y'all have been really working hard on Brick House. I enjoy these videos just as much as the straight sailing videos. Thanks for putting them up.
Thanks for the input! Appreciate it! -Rebecca
Patrick……It’s mid July on the West Coast of Canada……still learning from you a year after you left this earth…..your presence is missed by many…..where ever you are I trust the winds are favourable…..
Not sure you wanted me to respond to this… but thank you for saying this. I continue to learn from him to this day too…
I enjoy boat work videos as much as sailing and the adventure segments as well. Be wary of the hose clamps in South Africa. Brian from SV Delos replaced several hose clamps which they were told was a good stainless but were cheap knock off's that rusted out (bands and screw) and caused leaks on their boat. Hopefully you found a good retailer, bought some spares, and kept the old hardware for backup. Love that refurbish and the new riser with the flex coupling. Great Job!
Thanks for watching. We may have found those same “stainless steel” hose clamps that Brian On SV Delos found...we didn’t buy them. When I was back in the US, I got good quality, true stainless ones from Fisheries Supply in Washington which passed the magnet test, and carried a LOT of them back with me! We could not find any hose clamps in Richards Bay that would pass the magnet test. It is like no one here has heard of using a magnet to test the quality of their clamps. -Rebecca
These are always great learning videos. Not boring at all. I don't even have a heat exchanger on my engine just raw water cooled, but so much good information I can use on other jobs.
michael bundy OK...good to know..thanks for watching and your comment. We both appreciate it! -Rebecca
I admire your skill and know how in all your videos. But you keep convincing me I did the right choice in buying new.
So what did you buy ? -we often wish we could do that...but then again, starting over with all the things you modify to make it your own terrifies me too :) Thanks for watching and your compliment ;) Rebecca
Yes, this can be a warning to anyone who wants to buy a "project boat" and think they are going to save money. Patrick
Clear thinking, clear explanations, well done.
Many thanks!
Great mechanical content. I am land dweller. Really good descriptions on the oils, sealing agents and how to navigate parts and shops in foreign countries.
Thanks for watching
Patrick, I'm German. We don't say good and snug. We say "goodentight".... in your best german accent. :)
Well at least we know you were watching ;) What DO you say in that case?
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife thanks for the vlog....
That was Rebecca who responded first. I would think schnug and tieet are different torque settings.😀
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife I do agree with you Patrick. Thanks for the vlog.
Haha funny🤣🍻
Excellent video
That glass suit looked like a scene from Dexter:). Very insightful tks Patrick!
Your welcome.
Patrick another great video!
Thank you, Sonny.
Very useful video. Thx!
I am happy it was useful.
Thank you for another great and informative vid.
I’m surprised and impressed by Brickhouse’s engine access.
Im jealous you get to work on the Yanmar without standing on your head.
Well....there is good access from one side only. A while back I changed the kill pull cable. What should have been a 2 hour job at most, took 8 hours. Even if I had good access on the other side of the engine, the critical connection is so deep inside a Grand Canyon that no human fingers could ever thread the needle of wire and brass stopper then turn the tiniest set screw to secure things. Laying pads on top of the engine, I got real comfortable in that face down position. What helps greatly for changing oil, since the normal oil filter mount is as nearly impossible to get to as the pull cutoff connection, on the far side of the engine,is a remote oil filter, hung on the wall ,and an electric oil pump. Bud, thanks for your comment.
AWESOME TIP😉😉😉
Keep the screw of the hose clamp up to prenvent water from dripping down on it.
👍🤘🤙👍🙌
Thanks for your comment! -Rebecca
first thing that crossed my mind when you showed the new exhaust - 'be better if the water injection was pointing a bit more downhill'
I couldn't imagine why the original had the barb at 90 degrees, and that is why the new one was made that way. But I have seen that on many other risers as well. I feel better with the modification of the angled entry.
Simple, practical advice and clearly explained and documented. Good work team Patrick & Rebecca, make sure you have some time off to play. Thanks for your efforts in documenting your travels and adventures
Thanks, Andrew.
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife do you know my brother? ;)
@@thesailingkiwi Oops. Name swap. Sorry.
The elbow worked out well. And for the itching working with Fiberglas, use the baby talcum powder before starting the job, nicely white yourself .. works wonders.
I was warned, when I bought it, not to touch the new insulation with my hands, which I had done at the store. My hands were very itchy for a day! I want to wrap the new insulation with something, like one commentor suggested, thin aluminum wrap, as it is hard to work in the engine room without rubbing up against the insulation. Good idea, the talcum.
White distilled vinegar will always get rid of the itch of fiberglass in your skin. After using fiberglass just pour it on your hands from the bottle, massage your hands together and wash with soap and water to get rid of the smell. No more itching.
Ah.that’s a great great hint..thank you!!!
Great job !!!!
Thank you, Thomas.
Headsup! You are supposed to wet the fiberglass wrap! It works better and no free fibers! It stretches when applied. Then spray it with the paint to completely gluing as one. Its sold online with the wrap. Nice work looks good!
Locally, aluminum wrap is not available. Spraying with high temperature paint is a good idea. When we get this boat back in the water and test out then engine, I will put on more insulation then spray the insulation with paint. Thanks for the idea.
mannnn very will mint and good expl thank you very much
Welcome ;) Thanks for watching! -Rebecca
nice, good job
thanks Dylan p! Thanks a lot for your comment, and for watching! - Rebecca
Parabéns pelo vídeo.
Muito obrigado. Obrigado por assistir.
Love your shirt, had one year ago
I will have to watch again to see which shirt...mine or his?
Miss you brother!
Yes..me too. Thanks for watching the older ones too.
Excellent job,can’t imagine how much it would cost to pay some one to do all of that maintenance.I have a Yanmar myself 3,800hrs never missed a beat👍🏻
Yes! Thanks for watching and for your comment.
I had never seen an exhaust as well thought out as yours. With the riser going waaaaay above the waterline and a downward slope to the exhaust through hull (presumably). Too often I see an anti Syphon loop with the rubber valve plugged (disaster waiting to happen) but this is well thought out.
I remember way back seeing a figure for a riser height minimum and I thought it was 18 inches which does not seem to be much. There are a few well known boats which had their engine flooded in stormy weather because of two low of a riser. Our riser is 32" above the water line. The flexible section of pipe near the lower end makes it easy to adjust the height, a bit, for proper fit.
Sailing Nandji's boat also had the same system on their old engine, so this is the second boat i've seen with this system. They also had to make the same repairs and deal with asbestos.
Thanks, I will check how they handled the job.
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife you will probably find that the reason the exhaust was so corroded is because the asbestos insulation was retaining saltwater or humidity between it and the riser. However I would prefer not burning myself if I brushed the pipe and having to replace it in 30 years time than have it last forever and burning myself in a seaway.
@@Nicholas2011ist It seems every part on a sailboat should have an expiration date stamped on it. Like rigging should be replaced at a specific interval. Now I know, at 4,800 engine hours, the riser should have been replaced at least 800 hours ago. Thanks for your comment.
excellent video Mr Patrick. Will be on the lookout for a good heat exchanger repair company in the states, I have a similar task coming up in the next year or two. Some good tips also, for those really paying attention.....we all use hose clamps, but does everyone set the clamp screw on top to mitigate damage if the hose leaks? Good one! I eliminated all the open band clamps and replaced all with closed band clamps. More expensive size for size, but I have near enough eliminated rusting, breaking of the clamp, stripping of the gears. Enjoyed it, thanks! Andrew
Thanks for your comment Andrew. Patrick appreciates the feedback but is out working so hard on another project, that he can’t comment right now! Thanks for watching and commenting! He will be happy when he comes in to see the responses! Rebecca
Andrew, closed band clamps do look far better and would be cheaper in the long run. I will have to start looking for a local supplier. I sure would like some titanium clamps but have not found a supplier.
A suggestion to reduce your fibre dust in the engine bay is to seal the ends of the tape with high temp silicone it willl prevent the vibration loosing any fibres, you can also coat the entire thing but that gets pretty messy
gmoose777, Thanks for the suggestion.
Patrick,
A very good video and how to repair the heat exchanger and as always your knowledge is greatly appreciated . I have to do the exact same job on my boat so thanks for the head up on what to look for.
Robert
North Star
Happy the video could be a help. I have worked on Detroit Diesel, 550 hp turbo charged engines and there is nothing light about any of the bolted on parts. I was very surprised how light the whole heat exchanger was on this Yanmar. I hope you have equal ease in removing the 4 riser flange bolts as I had. On this boat, there was no room to swing a hammer to free them up.
Ok - I like these maintenance videos Patrick. It helps to show the whole "truth" about cruising (the good, the bad and the ugly) and it is a gentle reminder for us to keep up the maintenance tasks. Please keep them coming. BTW I love those "steel toed" safety sandals - where can I buy a pair? lol! Also, your "German" is excellent!
He is fast asleep now after a long days work (not to mention on the other side of the world... it’s 2am). Thanks for your comment and support...and for the tip...that is even more appreciated!
Yeah...he should protect those toes of his a little better...they are valuable toes ;) _Rebecca
This heat exchanger issue is a yanmar sickness.
I had a 4jh4e with 7000 hours and 7 years old have a pretty nasty corrosion surprise on the aft cap side .
Yanmar dealer used a hydraulic press to remove the core with the warning the entire case could explode.scarry but went well. It took a huge amount of force.released with a loud bang.
Yanmar wanted 800.00 to repair in phuket. But i got a local to do a 100.00 perfect repair. The corrosion was removed and he machined and sleved the pitted erea.
It went on another 8,000 hours and its now a spare part for my new 4jh5e. I replaced the 15,000 hours engine though it was running perfectly. I did this for cost management. Yanmar guy said this corossion happens when engines are not run enough. Well i cant agree as i put 15,000 hours on in 11 years
Phuket, what a miserable ripoff place that is. I have heard terrible nightmare stories of overpriced, shoddy, work being done there. Not an engine story but all we needed was a teak table to replace the one in the cockpit. Any marine facility wood shop, we asked, wanted $1,000 to make a new one. We never had a table in our house that cost that much. We had a new cockpit table made at a local furniture shop for $110. A diesel mechanic recently said that the heat exchanger O rings dry and wear out over time causing a leak. They should be changed at intervals. But he never said how often they should be changed. I think I will start doing it every 1,000 hours. Good to hear you got a great run out of your Yanmar. That gives me hope. Good idea to swap for a new engine after so many hours. I am very surprised that a Yanmar dealer would just press out the corroded core. That sounds brutal and risky. I would think they would soak it first to loosen it up. Thanks for your comment.
I remember youre boat anchored in chalong. Its been years but i did see you there. My boat is also a perry design .T 37
Phuket is a place that if you can take the time and really do youre re search you can get good value.
I have for 13 years, avoiding expat buisneses is the best advice i can give
Indo is my main cruising ground and phuket my refit base by default.
Yes youre right about the o rings. My plan is every 2 years to remove and clean the core and replace the o rings. This issue was the only issue i ever had with the motor and had i known better i would have serviced it.
This issue yanmar said is common. So yanmar owners beware.
Also that cap end can only go on one way. I spent days trying to figure out why i still had a leak. So that rear cap looks the same either way but its not. Finally i figured that out.
I feel for you looking at all those blisters. Its no big deal i know but its a lot of hard work. Looks like youre right into it now.
Good luck.
Another good helpful video. BrickHouse is going to be good for several thousand more nautical miles.
One thought I had after watching the care and attention to detail Patrick has to things as mundane as hose clamps- do you think it would help any, by adding a touch of the anti-seize compound to the threads of the house clamp bolts?
Marcel, for a long time I had been slathering LanoCoat, a lanolin, onto the whole stainless steel clamp and especially the tightening screws. The clamps still rusted, especially around the screw area. I would pay for titanium hose clamps but the one company I contacted was not responsive and Allied Titanium, my chain plate supplier, does not make Ti hose clamps. So I try to keep a big supply of new clamps on board. But I first check the clamps with a magnet before I buy them at the store to make sure they are all stainless....but sometimes I have to go with what is available.
I'd call that a lovely surprise. Nothing more satisfying to find a definite disaster waiting to happen .... and then prevent it. That corroded elbow could have fallen apart in your hand a 1000 miles out. Fixing that was a bargain at any cost. Beautiful job on the riser BtW.
You did a good thing with the hose clamp positioning it at the very end of the hose. So if the hose splits at the edge of the clamp (in the future) you get a chance of a 2nd go by moving the clamp a little further up the tube (get you home measure).
It's been years (decades) since i stripped an engine, but somebody once did once tell me that it doesn't hurt to put manifold bolts back in the same holes.
Lastly gaskets are there for a number of reasons, one that you touched on elsewhere. They can keep the metals apart.
OK this time lastly, really. Have you ever considered rigging the engine cooling as an emergency bilge pump? I've heard of this but wouldn't know how it could be prepared. Maybe you're thinking of how that might work, right now.
Probably better on just sea in sea out cooling.
Thanks for your comment. It would not be hard to rig the engine to suck bilge water by putting a Y valve between the engine and raw water strainer. It would be my luck, in such a situation, the bilge would be sucked dry and at the same time I'd be so distracted with whatever emergency was going on, the engine would burn up from lack of water. It is an option though. We have 3 bilge pumps. The main pump then the emergency electric bilge pump which never touches water unless it should get very high in the bilge then the very high capacity manual pump. Hmmmm, rather than installing a Y valve, I will take a look at the hose on the raw water strainer and maybe set up what could be a hose extension which could plug into the raw water hose after ripping it off the raw water strainer. Thanks for the idea.
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife Blast. Now I have to keep watching.
Nice work on your part, but I was a little surprised that the rebuild shop did not clean and paint your exchanger more than they did. I have always seen that type of thing come back looking like brand new. Also, that bolt you put in to support the upper rad hose looks like it may rub its way through over time.
That would have a nice touch to have had the exchanger painted upon pickup. Online somewhere, a person said that a rebuild, such as I had done, would cost, in the U.S., 75% of the cost of a new unit. I would think the same would be true in Australia. So, for $250, I am satisfied. To protect the discharge hose from the new hanger, there is a cut open piece of clear water hose separating the discharge hose from the bolt and the ties securing things. It is hard to see in the video. Thanks for your comment.
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife And thank you for your videos as they are most informative, and I enjoy to pick up tips from a real pro sailor.
@@chrisscott1958 You know Chris, I was just in the engine room and only because you mentioned it, I looked at the new hanger bolt. Sure enough, the clear plastic chafe protector had somehow twisted around allowing the bolt head to come in contact with the discharge hose. Took 45 seconds to readjust things properly. Thanks!
Good catch, I totally missed that!
How did they repair the ends of the manifold and end caps. I know it is expensive but it looked to me as though a new manifold was needed.
Hopefully the repair will hold up and not leak
Good videos
In these radiator repair shops, apparently it isn't too big of a deal to build up the deteriorated metal by welding, brazing, or whatever, then milling back the desired shape. They also checked the copper tubes and soldered some thin areas. It would have been costly to have this work done in Australia or the U.S., but in many of these foreign countries, labor cost is a fraction of what it is in the bigger economy countries. I also hope it does not leak. We are still working on rebuilding the exterior resin blisters on the hull so it will be months before we are back in the water and really give the heat exchanger a good workout . Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the vid! Question... Ive seen this in a few marine applications... What is the purpose of running the waste water out i to the exhaust?
Water-cooled inboard engines inject cooling water into the exhaust pipe, which cools the exhaust and muffles engine noise. ... This is known as a wet exhaust system. Wet exhaust systems have the advantage of using the heat-absorbing and sound-dampening qualities of water to cool and quiet the exhaust.
Thanks for watching..hope the guy below answered your question.
Hi Pat , have you given any thought to a gun cleaning kit , to clean out the tubes of the heat exchanger ? Matching the diameter . Come with brass brushes and etc ...
I have never had a restriction problem in the "straws", or tubes, of the exchanger. But such a cleaning kit would be good equipment to have on board. However, looking like a gun cleaning kit, I would keep it buried in the engine room so some customs man would not think it is or cleaning a weapon.
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife you could use a wire coat hanger to prod the tubes
Hello I have been trying to remember what video you talk about your fuel filters can you enlighten me
I had to go back and search but finally found it. I think we should retitle the video a bit. It is vid #15 that features the Monitor self steering. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/xKc7chnn6Sw/w-d-xo.html
Patrick, You set a high standard for us diy'ers. I have a problem with my goggles fogging up when wearing them with my 3m respirator. Do you have a similar problem when you are suited up? What respirator do you use? Is it good for paint like Perfection 2 part polly as well as particulate matter like the asbestos?
On another matter, my boat had a small leak on a brass drainage hole in the transom. It has caused the plywood core on the transom to rot a little. The transom is still strong and the fiberglass is in perfect condition. I was going to fix it by getting some gitrot and pouring it into the layers between the two fiberglass sections and then fill the void with some West System Six10 Thickend Epoxy Adhesive. What do you think of this attempt at repair? After the void is filled I was going to use a nylon drain instead of brass because I think it will hold up better.
If your goggles are fogging up, air is escaping from the respirator and not going out the discharge at the bottom. Check the one way valve and see if it is stuck. That thin piece of rubber disc often gets stuck to its surroundings inside the respirator. I have a very good dual filter respirator and a cheaper single filter respirator. The dual is far better for all reasons but I have dedicated that one to my helper named Sip. I don't like the idea of sharing respirators.
You would have to check the specifications of your respirator to see what it is good for filtering. Painting the inside of our aluminum water tanks, it would have been impossible to paint them with 2 part paint using only a respirator, without burning out some brain cells. There I used the pumped in air from a hookah to breathe. Out doors, I would use a good, properly rated respirator.
Forget, GitRot. The wood is rotted because it became saturated with moisture. Pouring something into or onto wet, rotted wood, does nothing. The GitRot will stay but the wood continues to rot. A heat fan, like a hair dryer, would have to completely dry the area first and that can take days, if not weeks. If you have the right tools, it is actually faster, better, stronger to remove the deteriorated wood and rebuild the area. Can you drill down or some how dig out the deteriorated wood without opening the fiberglass skin to gain access?
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife Thanks for your reply.
I second that suggestion by Patrick. Remove all the wet, rotten wood. Then rebuild. I just finished removing rot from a section in cabin wall coring. A Portlight was leaking water into the balsa core of the cabin wall. I drilled “exploratory” holes into the wall after removing paneling to discover the the parameter of the problem. When the drill bit comes out with wet soggy wood you know you’ve struck rot. I drilled about 20 holes to determine the perimeter. Then drew a square around the affected area and used a Fein tool to cut the fiberglass skin. Then used a chisel and hammer to pry the skin off revealing the rotten core. Hammer and chisel to remove rot. Then shaped some plywood into missing core and glasses back in with thickened peanut butter epoxy. Of note is I first coated and sealed the plywood with epoxy for better adhesion. Hope this helps!
@@Sailingintoinfinity Thanks for your reply. What brand of thickened epoxy did you use? I am leaning towards WEST System Six10 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive because it automatically mixes the components when you use it. I am also getting the impression that Gitrot is a useless product. If the rot is completely dry will Gitrot work?
Here in S. Florida, I can fog my goggles due to the evaporation of sweat on a really hot day. I also have a full face mask supplied with fresh air from a remote turbine pump. Never fogs, never worry about gaps around the respirator, but the downside is being tethered to the hose and having to set it up (for a short duration task). For longer-duration tasks, it can't be beat for safety and comfort.
Hi. How hot does the riser get? No chance to use pipe insulation like roockwool whidh aluminium foil?
I have seen temperatures stated somewhere but don't remember the numbers....but it is extremely hot and would melt rockwool. That is why I am so impressed with the Mrine Tex holding up so well.
Nice video. The technique to bend the wire back and forth creates a clean and not sharp finish.
Thanks for watching!!
Класс👍👍👍
Thanks!
Where did you get the riser made or parts to make it to the mixing elbow?
Richards Bay right there at Zululand yacht club. John, the marina manager organized it.
I know this is an old video, but I'm a little concerned about your riser support from the aft cabin, shown at ~12:44. It looks like the nut on the end of the long threaded shaft is rubbing on the rubber riser hose itself. I can see you have a chafing guard on the outside of the hose inside the hose clamp, which is great, but that nut? Maybe you had the chafe guard loose in the photo and have since moved it back into place.
You have a very good eye. That chafe spot has been corrected. Thanks for noticing.
Taping the asbestos with some sort of high heat tape ? I haven't seen many doing the Barnacle Buster approach, keeping things under control. not sure why ? One can make the 10% solution with "clean strip" from home depot (40%), a gallon before leaving the states would go a long way. How is South Africa for prices ?
I think I will check around for some aluminum tape, as another commentor suggested. In Africa, labor is very cheap. Basic workers get around $12 a day but "things" like clothes and tools are not cheap. There is a 58% import duty on most things so there are few bargains. I just paid $60 for a liter of two part polyurethane varnish. Nearly all marine supplies are imported from the U.S.. Africa is fun though and in many ways nice and modern. Certainly not like Somalia or the other miserable African countries far to the north. We just got back from doing a visa run to Namibia. That is a relatively wealthy country and looks like Arizona for the architecture and dry landscape, except there is no cactus. Nice people who speak very clear English. Great hearing from you.
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife Thanks, great reply.
Maybe you can talk about routine use of Phosphoric Acid Barnacle buster some time. The acid the shop used was sulfuric.
You can use the vinegar and then I would eliminate the asbestos while everything is removed.
Thanks for the tip!
Hi Patrick. Great videos - lots of work you guys doing. I also have the same Yanmar 4JH3E (new 2004) in our sailboat. Have you had any seawater leaks from the small oil heat exchanger ? (the small heat exchanger located aft end of motor just above and forward of the bell housing/gearbox joint area that the sea water pumps through first before the main heat exchanger) My Yanmar's oil heat exchanger has some slight corrosion now visible... with what appears to be a few rusty spots just under it from what I assume is the result of small drops of seawater in the area. I have not observed any leaks (ie drops) but it must be leaking a very small amount now. Adding it to my coming 2019/20 winter maintenance here in Vancouver BC to drain oil and investigate this.
Keep up the videos.
There are two oil coolers in that area, the main engine oil cooler, far forward, and the transmission oil cooler. The first one in line from the raw water strainer, which is the transmission oil cooler, never showed any leaks on the outside. On the inside core, there was a very slight leak which allowed sea water into the transmission fluid. Good thing I had plenty of transmission fluid on board, to keep changing, till we got to a place to rebuild the core and for us to order a new cooler. So now we have the rebuilt one as a spare. Good thing you are catching your drip early on.
Easy way to tell if that's asbestos on the engine is get a lighter to the fibers and see if the fibers glows, if it glows and it's asbestos if it burns its fiberglass.
Great idea. Thanks for the tip.
hi Patrick how long your boat ?🖐
40 feet.
I really do support and enjoy you guys so much. At the same time you are of the age I have to ask do you not feel the need to give back to the world of people , animals and nature. I have been a sailor but in the end needed to follow a guardian ad litem program for children and help with animal rescue. I am not someone who did not work and raise money for my family in business because I did. I just would lose meaning in my life not supporting those who cannot by their own means wholly support themselves. I would truly appreciate your thoughts on this because I really do partly wish I was doing what you are doing but overall get more joy from reaching into others lives that are trying to help themselves.
I personally look for meaningful volunteer opportunities as we travel, but unfortunately in many places it is something you pay a lot of money to do...to be a volunteer...it’s all the rage...but I’m sure if I looked harder I would find. And also hard not staying in one place long enough to really understand what is really needed. But we try to help in little ways where we can. For example...the young man who is working for us...didn’t know anything at all about boat work when he arrived. Not only has he gained some valuable experience working with Patrick, but Patrick recommended him to the yard manager, and he now has a full time permanent job because of that, with the agreement with the yard manager that we get first dibs, with advance notice. But personally for me...the opportunity to give something back in places we go, is a goal. -Rebecca
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife Thank you for your kind response and I certainly did think you had likely been a great and valued influence on people you meet. As a parent you hope to enjoy life and guide in meaningful ways. I appreciate and respect both of you which is why I asked - Thank you
Bruce, I will give a little response as Rebecca said most. There are places where some people work hard to scratch whatever they can from what little resources are available. A good example is Paul, in Russian Bay, Madagascar. By our standards, he is very poor but lives in a hut on a water front hillside. That is a nice piece of property. But Paul, with the help of a previous cruiser, put together a photo album of his guided, walking, tours across the island and sailing on his wooden dhow. We have hiked hundreds of islands and seen countless waterfalls and really had no interest in doing all this again. But Paul was really trying to work, where there was no work, so we signed up for his island tour and boat ride. It was a fun day, and lunch, with a local. The sail on his "charter boat" was a great experience also. Here in S. Africa, unemployment is very high. In just about any shopping mall parking lot, locals will show up with an orange vest and stake out a parking area. They are now the parking attendant. They help point a driver to a vacant spot, help clear shopping baskets out of the way and help direct a car as it backs up, out of a parking space, to help avoid a collision. The attendant accepts whatever the drives will drop into their hand. Normally the tip is around 14 cents. This service is not needed and could seem annoying at times but these people have absolutely no other work to go to, but they are doing something other than standing on a sidewalk with their hand out. I always give them a good tip. While parked, someone else will have a bucket of water and you can get your car washed for cheap. How fortunate we were to have been born in the U.S. or for others in a European country where education is mandatory and free. .
You both give much to all of us in your loving and attentive ways to one another and even in the meticulous care and thoughtfulness in your planning and care of your water home. You spread much Good Will amongst many people you meet and give hope to those who have been working in places that they have been unhappy by offering courage to seek the light of nature and new friendships throughout the world. Thank you from all of us. @@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife
Hey is that a 3 Jh25 yanmar?
It is a 4JH3E with about 4,500 hours on it. 56 hp.
How you stay safe from mosquito bite, tiger trasmit malaria?
We do not take malaria pills or other...here for too long for the pills to be safe. We don’t see many mosquitos where we are, but we hear that season is approaching. We have screens on every hatch and portlight. We cover up with at least sheets at night besides being screened in. We wear long clothes when off the boat AND use a few of the good repellants they have available here. And we avoid crowds and beaches during the season at dusk, everywhere in the world... Rebecca
Hi Patrick,
OMG, this is why I rarely do sailboat work or work on Asian boats. Of course, this is almost certainly not the original installation. The wrap may be fiberglass or asbestos. You never know with Asian boats. Quality installations now use custom made "blankets" that attach with metal fittings or straps.
Ed Wiser. Well hello. Going back through all old comments and making sure all replied to. Finally seeing light at the end of the very long tunnel…and here you are :)
How many hours on the engine? Any gearbox problems?
5000 now. No gear box problems no
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife Does it have the Kanzaki KBW21?
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife Any kind of overheating problems when runnig it over 3000rpm?
3 cylinder, 30 hp. ?
56HP 4 cylinder I think
That exhaust manifold/heat exchanger combo Yanmar did is not my favorite. Prefer them separate on my Yanmar.
Yeah the more separate things are the better
..Are you sure the wrap is not ceramic insulation?? ( it is still something to not be breathed... )
I did the fire test to tiny thread ends. The old insulation did not singe/curl, but some of the threads on the new insulation did. Is there a better way to tell?
@@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife I am not sure... I do suspect that the old was some form of non-asbetos given the age of things... I also used to deal with other fireproof/insulation materials in the 80's one was what we now cal Nomex ( racing suits) but we also had ceramic fiber insulation available... you were in good shape to wear the gear. :D
I know Nomex from my Vietnam helicopter days. Felt like wearing wool.
next time try wrapping the other way, much easier :-)
Thanks
Get rid of that asbestos too! Damn, talk about high risk environment!
The asbestos is gone but because of the fine fibers of the fiberglass, I don't see the new insulation as being much better. It needs to be wrapped with something to contain the fibers.
I notice not a lot of black Africans owning marine service associated businesses.
Yeah...but, then again there are an awful lot of very wealthy blacks in S Africa (very poor ones too)...but maybe owning a marine service business is not the way to make money ;) I have heard NOW that a white person is not allowed to own a business of any kind here, without a black owning at least 51% of it... don’t know the details. Possibly all the marine service businesses and others too, are owned by blacks, and we just don’t see it because they have whites working for them. Always hard to tell the reality of somewhere being in it for only 6 months. But things seem a little askew here, and it’s hard to understand it all. -Rebecca
It's all to do with BEE ( Black Economic Empowerment) if you want to tender for government contracts. I use too work on yachts, fishing boats and trawlers doing electrical work but the owners didn't want to pay for the work done. You always have to fight for your money. 😁👍😎🇿🇦