Nice video!!! My Man!!! I love it when people make a video that is useful, plus explains what they are doing and how they are doing it. It's down to the point, the lighting was good, and you didn't have to put the viewers "on hold" to finish your shot. Nice job!!!
I figured I would elaborate so you don't think I'm nuts. long story short I have a 5.3 boosted project in my 97 s10. I saw that you didn't go stand alone with yours and you wired the s10 harness directly to your lsx ecu. I want to know the issues you came in with and what else. We have the same "gen" s10 (ecu location and interior) and I would rather to do that then do a stand alone version. thanks again for your time!!
Basically you have to get the pinout from your year S10. Then locate the body harness to engine harness connectors, and next tie the factory body harness into the LS engine harness. I also used the connectors from the factory engine harness and added them to the LS harness so that it would be a complete "plug and play". This works for the gen 3 pcm's, not so much for the gen 4's. This is because the gen 4 uses a CANBUS data system that isn't compatible with the gauges in the S10's. There may be some type of network adapter if this is the case, but I used a 24x motor and was able to use a gen 3 pcm.
I was told that I cannot do it that way with the year trucks we have. I messaged you on Facebook. Thank you again for answering any questions and getting back to me. I just had a few easy questions about the process. I'll keep it to Facebook so it doesn't cause confusion not being directed to the content on this video.
I just used square tubing and welded it up. I liked the "run stand out of an engine stand" design, so that's the direction I went in. There are free plans online for much nicer ones though. I stole some of this guys design cues th-cam.com/video/KPwRUNnE_jk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Ken I am working on this exact swap. Simple and to the point, love it. It looks like they are using a washer for the apply pin diameter as a guide, when you grind it down. Does it say what the diameter of the hole in the washer should be ?
Thanks, The part where I was confused was about measuring from what point. From the video, looks like you install everything, and the snap ring. Then you measure from the resting position of the cover against the snap ring as the starting point. Press in and measure again, this is the travel. You did not mention it but you can see the ring installed in the video. Thanks for taking the time to make the video, it helped!!!
Thanks sir! I need to get back to some informative vids. The update ones are cool, but I like the ones better that share info. (speaking of my own of course)
Using the screwdriver though doesn't give an accurate reading because your not able to determine the proper torque your using to move the servo in. There's a special tool gm uses to make sure you have proper travel with proper torque but the damn thing is $3-$400. Probably why most diyers don't know.
hey man, I need to get ahold of you to pick your brain about a similar project you have done that I am doing now! what's an email address or Facebook I can message you at? thank you so much again in advance!!!
First you need to learn to read the dial indicator correctly. That dial should spin from just undee one revolution .075 to over one revolution .125 in. I only saw .020 travel on your gauge. Band will surely burn up.
First, I can't decide if you are blind, deaf, or just a douche, but maybe if you turn your sound on, he tells you that he didn't do the actual measurement in the video because it required both hands, he was just demonstrating how to do it.
Your a nit wit juice ball, y don't u thank the man for taking the time to put the video out. I've been a Machinist for years n would never comment like that. Matter of the fact I didn't even pay attention to the caliper, indicator, micromitor ,or whatever measuring tool .I was just thrilled I finely found someone that explained what a servo did . I lost 2nd n 4th gear so now I can order my servo{OEM} and install it with a yard stick. Thank you sir for the video. The bell has been rung, plus I'm now subscribed 👌
I have recently started experiencing a no 2nd gear in my 4l60e after I launched in 1st and the tires busted loose spinning. seems I haven't had 2nd gear ever since that happened. I dropped the pan an did a filter and fluid change and I also checked the 1-2 accumulator piston while I was there. put it back together and had the same symptoms which is basically no 2nd gear. I had a new set of vette servos I installed as a last ditch effort and still have no 2nd gear but I did notice that the servos cover has an awful lot of travel before and after the servos install. could the pin all of the sudden be too short causing my no 2nd gear? any and all help would be appreciated since I am on the fence of pulling the trans for a full rebuild.
That’s what I assume is wrong with mines. No second gear but everything else is “fine” 🤷🏻♂️ I wanted to drop the trans and replace with a reman from autozone. $2,000 but a band sounds cheaper lol
@carlosherrera8541 pry in the side of the servo housing while the trans is still mounted in the truck. If the cover moves more than 1/4" then you can pull the servo cover and take the pin out of the servo pack. Weld on the end of it and grind as close to the same shape. All you are doing is making the pin a little longer to apply more pressure to the band. It's not a permanent fix but will 100% get you about 10-12,000 more miles until you can make plans on what you want to do permanently.
Yeah I pressed on it and it does go in way more than a 1/4”. That’s why I assumed it was the band. I’ll have my neighbor weld a blob on the pin this weekend. But wouldn’t that cause more damage on internals like metal shavings in the fluid?
Nice video!!! My Man!!! I love it when people make a video that is useful, plus explains what they are doing and how they are doing it. It's down to the point, the lighting was good, and you didn't have to put the viewers "on hold" to finish your shot. Nice job!!!
Thanks, I needed a refresher. These servos are worth every penny.
Great video! Thank you!
I figured I would elaborate so you don't think I'm nuts. long story short I have a 5.3 boosted project in my 97 s10. I saw that you didn't go stand alone with yours and you wired the s10 harness directly to your lsx ecu. I want to know the issues you came in with and what else. We have the same "gen" s10 (ecu location and interior) and I would rather to do that then do a stand alone version. thanks again for your time!!
Basically you have to get the pinout from your year S10. Then locate the body harness to engine harness connectors, and next tie the factory body harness into the LS engine harness. I also used the connectors from the factory engine harness and added them to the LS harness so that it would be a complete "plug and play".
This works for the gen 3 pcm's, not so much for the gen 4's. This is because the gen 4 uses a CANBUS data system that isn't compatible with the gauges in the S10's. There may be some type of network adapter if this is the case, but I used a 24x motor and was able to use a gen 3 pcm.
I was told that I cannot do it that way with the year trucks we have. I messaged you on Facebook. Thank you again for answering any questions and getting back to me. I just had a few easy questions about the process. I'll keep it to Facebook so it doesn't cause confusion not being directed to the content on this video.
Do you leave the seals out so you can take it in and out easier for adjustments? Or does having the seals in mess with the travel?
You leave the cover seal off untill you get it spot on .
I've been looking for your page for sometime now! I'm about to finally do an ls swap. Did you make that test stand?
Yeah, but I still have to make a radiator support. Everything else is done on it
Ken C Do you have a guide on building one?
I just used square tubing and welded it up. I liked the "run stand out of an engine stand" design, so that's the direction I went in. There are free plans online for much nicer ones though. I stole some of this guys design cues th-cam.com/video/KPwRUNnE_jk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Ken I am working on this exact swap. Simple and to the point, love it. It looks like they are using a washer for the apply pin diameter as a guide, when you grind it down. Does it say what the diameter of the hole in the washer should be ?
So you have to get the longer pin or you'll have issues?
Thanks, The part where I was confused was about measuring from what point. From the video, looks like you install everything, and the snap ring. Then you measure from the resting position of the cover against the snap ring as the starting point. Press in and measure again, this is the travel. You did not mention it but you can see the ring installed in the video. Thanks for taking the time to make the video, it helped!!!
I was wondering this exact question. Basically, the most important detail was left out.
Thank you!
Ty very much ken.
Thanks for this video. Question: what should the travel be for a factory servo? Working on a 700r4 (non-4L60E).
Good stuff Ken C! Keep it up man.
Thanks sir! I need to get back to some informative vids. The update ones are cool, but I like the ones better that share info. (speaking of my own of course)
good stuff!
Using the screwdriver though doesn't give an accurate reading because your not able to determine the proper torque your using to move the servo in. There's a special tool gm uses to make sure you have proper travel with proper torque but the damn thing is $3-$400. Probably why most diyers don't know.
hey man, I need to get ahold of you to pick your brain about a similar project you have done that I am doing now! what's an email address or Facebook I can message you at? thank you so much again in advance!!!
Facebook Amillion Builds page
First you need to learn to read the dial indicator correctly. That dial should spin from just undee one revolution .075 to over one revolution .125 in. I only saw .020 travel on your gauge. Band will surely burn up.
First, I can't decide if you are blind, deaf, or just a douche, but maybe if you turn your sound on, he tells you that he didn't do the actual measurement in the video because it required both hands, he was just demonstrating how to do it.
You can't decide because you are lacking just like guy in the video.
Your a nit wit juice ball, y don't u thank the man for taking the time to put the video out. I've been a Machinist for years n would never comment like that. Matter of the fact I didn't even pay attention to the caliper, indicator, micromitor ,or whatever measuring tool .I was just thrilled I finely found someone that explained what a servo did . I lost 2nd n 4th gear so now I can order my servo{OEM} and install it with a yard stick. Thank you sir for the video. The bell has been rung, plus I'm now subscribed 👌
He said specifically that he didn't do the actual test because it takes two hands. Listen to what he said.
I have recently started experiencing a no 2nd gear in my 4l60e after I launched in 1st and the tires busted loose spinning. seems I haven't had 2nd gear ever since that happened. I dropped the pan an did a filter and fluid change and I also checked the 1-2 accumulator piston while I was there. put it back together and had the same symptoms which is basically no 2nd gear. I had a new set of vette servos I installed as a last ditch effort and still have no 2nd gear but I did notice that the servos cover has an awful lot of travel before and after the servos install. could the pin all of the sudden be too short causing my no 2nd gear? any and all help would be appreciated since I am on the fence of pulling the trans for a full rebuild.
What was it??
@@carlosherrera8541 the 2-4 band shit the bed. I have learned ALOT about the 60e since I made this comment 6yrs ago
That’s what I assume is wrong with mines. No second gear but everything else is “fine” 🤷🏻♂️ I wanted to drop the trans and replace with a reman from autozone. $2,000 but a band sounds cheaper lol
@carlosherrera8541 pry in the side of the servo housing while the trans is still mounted in the truck. If the cover moves more than 1/4" then you can pull the servo cover and take the pin out of the servo pack. Weld on the end of it and grind as close to the same shape. All you are doing is making the pin a little longer to apply more pressure to the band. It's not a permanent fix but will 100% get you about 10-12,000 more miles until you can make plans on what you want to do permanently.
Yeah I pressed on it and it does go in way more than a 1/4”. That’s why I assumed it was the band. I’ll have my neighbor weld a blob on the pin this weekend. But wouldn’t that cause more damage on internals like metal shavings in the fluid?