Most excellent video series. Super helpful. Completed the job in about 6 hours. Took my time and followed your guidance step by step. Only helpful suggestion would be the different torque settings as you go. Great job!
Hi Dan, I'm happy to hear you found it useful. If you're about to do the job you shouldn't find it to be too much trouble. If you have any questions, fire away! Tom
Hi, That's a tool that I made. I started with 1/8" X 1 1/2" strap and formed the radii as required, then thinned down the tool where it fits the smaller plug. What works just as well is an appropriately sized fender washer from the hardware store. Some little-known KLR lore; if you're replacing the lever on a Gen 1, the stock lever can be kept in your tool box as it is the perfect size for removing the plugs. The Gen 2 lever is too thick. Of course, the Gen 1 lever is likely to be broken. Such is the perversity in the universe... Tom
Hi Brent, The 2022 setup is the same as the 2008-2018. What that means is that the lever itself is good and will not break as the earlier ones did. The spring is a problem; it is the same spring used on the 2008-2018 models. That spring will run out of tension after a short while. Reports run from 3000 to 10,000 miles. Once it runs out of tension it will no longer tighten the chain and the chain will become noisy. As the slack in the chain increases it may begin to hit the case at the spots where it turns around the balancer sprockets. The short answer is 'Yes', it is a good idea. Regards, Tom
Hi Shaine, No idea what it stands for. These marks are stamped on the rotor. Take a look at this post: www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tech-guides/50834-rotor-markings.html Tom
Hi Shaine, Yes, the rotor, which contains a permanent magnet, is on the end of the crankshaft. The permanent magnets surrounds a coil that is attached to the outer case. That makes up the bike's alternator. There is also an embedded magnet in the rim of the rotor and a pick-up coil attached to the case. That is the ignition trigger and sets the ignition timing. Tom
HI Sage, Yes, the process is exactly the same. What you will find is an older style, two-piece, welded lever but there are no other significant changes. The early Gen 2 had the infamous 'deep-hole' issue that you will not have on your 2007. Tom
@@souperdoo Hi Tom, Indeed I found a two-piece, welded lever inside mine. I also ran into an issue when I pulled off my rotor. I was very careful and slowly pulled the rotor and the gear off the crankshaft, removing the two spacers behind the gear as well. I was looking for the Woodruff Key but it was nowhere to be found. I searched the rotor itself thoroughly and inside the case. I even stuck a magnet into the other side to feel around if i could pick it up in case it dropped into the other side, with no luck either. I even tried adding around half a litre of oil and moving the bike left and right to see if the magnetic drain plug would pick it up when drained. Nothing. So now after about 4 hours of searching, I'm wondering if it would've been possible for the previous owner to replace the rotor without the Woodruff key? Or if I should keep looking for it. I never heard any sort of "clank" as I pulled the rotor off, so I am thinking it would be possible, but would've been exceptionally difficult to get the timing right. I also have been doing it on the side stand, so the woodruff key would've had to have a spectacularly rare bounce to bounce into the right hand side of the case. My big fear is getting a new Woodruff key, putting it all together with the new Doo and torsion spring, and firing it up only to have the old one pop out of nowhere and shred my engine. If you have any sort of advice, I would really appreciate it! Thanks so much, your videos have been excellent. Sage
Sage, You said you searched the rotor, but did you look in the bore where the key would logically be or did you also look into the inside of the rotor itself? There are huge permanent magnets in there which would easily attract the key as it fell off of the crank or out of the rotor's bore. That is the only alternative I can offer. The rotor can be assembled to the crank without the key, of course. The key only serves to properly orient the rotor on the crank. Once it is oriented it is the wedging onto the crankshafts taper that holds the position. I could imagine someone being so lazy and cheap that they would not go get another $1 key to replace the one they lost (which probably fell into the engine...) :^). If you have done a thorough search (did you watch the last video about the washers falling into the hole?) and not found it, it would seem the best you can do is what you've already done! If the key is not inside the rotor or near the balancer and cam chains but is in the engine, it probably can't do harm. Get another key and put it back together. Tom
Best series in the genre, yet.
Thanks! I am glad that you found it useful and appreciate the comment!
Tom
I watched a LOT of doohickey replacement videos and yours are, from far away, the GREATEST I've seen...! Nice job man...!
Hi! Thanks for saying that, I appreciate it.
Shameless plug: www.souperdoo.com/ Browse around some!
Tom
I loved your carb video series. Looking forward to this one. Thanks!!
Most excellent video series. Super helpful. Completed the job in about 6 hours. Took my time and followed your guidance step by step. Only helpful suggestion would be the different torque settings as you go. Great job!
John,
Good suggestion! I'll see about adding the torque values with annotations.
Thanks, and glad the videos were useful to you.
Tom
21,000 miles and a million KLR videos into my 2015 and I just now found this? Jeez.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
:^)
Thank you very much. I looked at many videos on this, and yours was the most useful and clear. Great job... I feel ready to do mine now.
Michael
Hi Michael,
I'm happy to hear you found it useful. Good luck with the job!
Tom
Knocked it out like a champ!!! Did the thermo-Bob at the same time. I did both in one day....took my time. So much easier using your guidance. Thanks
Hey! Nothing like opening a can of whoopass on the KLR, eh?
Tom
Nice job on the video! I like the detail. Keep up the good work.. gm
Thanks! I'm happy you found it useful.
Tom
Very well explained. Thanks!
Hi Dan,
I'm happy to hear you found it useful.
If you're about to do the job you shouldn't find it to be too much trouble. If you have any questions, fire away!
Tom
Yea I didn't even realize I cut my finger until the oil got on it verysharp but went step by step mine turned out great thanks
Thank you 🙏
You are most welcome! I hope it all went well for you.
Best,
Tom
Great job !
Thank you!
Great video! What tool are you using to remove the slotted plugs.
Hi,
That's a tool that I made. I started with 1/8" X 1 1/2" strap and formed the radii as required, then thinned down the tool where it fits the smaller plug.
What works just as well is an appropriately sized fender washer from the hardware store.
Some little-known KLR lore; if you're replacing the lever on a Gen 1, the stock lever can be kept in your tool box as it is the perfect size for removing the plugs. The Gen 2 lever is too thick. Of course, the Gen 1 lever is likely to be broken. Such is the perversity in the universe...
Tom
I have a 2022 KLR 650 should I replace my doohickey?
Hi Brent,
The 2022 setup is the same as the 2008-2018. What that means is that the lever itself is good and will not break as the earlier ones did. The spring is a problem; it is the same spring used on the 2008-2018 models.
That spring will run out of tension after a short while. Reports run from 3000 to 10,000 miles. Once it runs out of tension it will no longer tighten the chain and the chain will become noisy. As the slack in the chain increases it may begin to hit the case at the spots where it turns around the balancer sprockets.
The short answer is 'Yes', it is a good idea.
Regards,
Tom
What does the 'F' mark mean? 3:22
Hi Shaine,
It is the ignition timing mark for idle; 10 degrees before top dead center @ 1300rpm;.
Tom
souperdoo Thanks! Does the 'F' stand for fast or something? And what part of the engine is that letter stamped on anyway??
Hi Shaine,
No idea what it stands for.
These marks are stamped on the rotor. Take a look at this post: www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tech-guides/50834-rotor-markings.html
Tom
souperdoo
OK so the rotor is attached to the crankshaft I guess.
Hi Shaine,
Yes, the rotor, which contains a permanent magnet, is on the end of the crankshaft. The permanent magnets surrounds a coil that is attached to the outer case. That makes up the bike's alternator.
There is also an embedded magnet in the rim of the rotor and a pick-up coil attached to the case. That is the ignition trigger and sets the ignition timing.
Tom
Too dead center on compression?
From a balancer system perspective, there is only one top dead center. The engine cycle doesn't come into play.
This is a Gen 1 KLR right?
It's a 2009.
Thanks for the reply, would it be the same process for 2007?@@souperdoo
HI Sage,
Yes, the process is exactly the same. What you will find is an older style, two-piece, welded lever but there are no other significant changes.
The early Gen 2 had the infamous 'deep-hole' issue that you will not have on your 2007.
Tom
@@souperdoo Hi Tom,
Indeed I found a two-piece, welded lever inside mine. I also ran into an issue when I pulled off my rotor. I was very careful and slowly pulled the rotor and the gear off the crankshaft, removing the two spacers behind the gear as well. I was looking for the Woodruff Key but it was nowhere to be found. I searched the rotor itself thoroughly and inside the case. I even stuck a magnet into the other side to feel around if i could pick it up in case it dropped into the other side, with no luck either. I even tried adding around half a litre of oil and moving the bike left and right to see if the magnetic drain plug would pick it up when drained. Nothing. So now after about 4 hours of searching, I'm wondering if it would've been possible for the previous owner to replace the rotor without the Woodruff key? Or if I should keep looking for it. I never heard any sort of "clank" as I pulled the rotor off, so I am thinking it would be possible, but would've been exceptionally difficult to get the timing right. I also have been doing it on the side stand, so the woodruff key would've had to have a spectacularly rare bounce to bounce into the right hand side of the case.
My big fear is getting a new Woodruff key, putting it all together with the new Doo and torsion spring, and firing it up only to have the old one pop out of nowhere and shred my engine. If you have any sort of advice, I would really appreciate it! Thanks so much, your videos have been excellent.
Sage
Sage,
You said you searched the rotor, but did you look in the bore where the key would logically be or did you also look into the inside of the rotor itself? There are huge permanent magnets in there which would easily attract the key as it fell off of the crank or out of the rotor's bore. That is the only alternative I can offer.
The rotor can be assembled to the crank without the key, of course. The key only serves to properly orient the rotor on the crank. Once it is oriented it is the wedging onto the crankshafts taper that holds the position. I could imagine someone being so lazy and cheap that they would not go get another $1 key to replace the one they lost (which probably fell into the engine...) :^).
If you have done a thorough search (did you watch the last video about the washers falling into the hole?) and not found it, it would seem the best you can do is what you've already done! If the key is not inside the rotor or near the balancer and cam chains but is in the engine, it probably can't do harm. Get another key and put it back together.
Tom
loved it still cut my finger lol just like you so beware people inside flywheel is sharp
That thing is sharp, isn't it?
Tom