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Despite what some others have said: Thank you for explaining things thoroughly at the beginning. There are people like me who have no prior knowledge, and this explains it very well.
Hi and thanks for the comment. It’s too bad some want things specifically their way. I’m glad you appreciate that I cover it thoroughly and I will continue to do so. Thanks and I will chat with you next time.
Agreed. Thank you Guy. I'm "a girly girl" but I will be "diving in soon" to repair my bathroom walls (, which currently look much like what you just showed us - eeek!) Your vid here has made me feel much more "confident" that I just might pull this first dive off and become the duck-in-the-water I've always wanted to be! Really, so glad you took the time to create this vid. LOL! I'll tell you how it turns out... ~v~
Do you really need to do a second coat pf mud considering youre going to skim coat it providing you got the first coat smoothe and it smoothes after sanding?
I just wanted to drop a huge thank you on this video. About a year ago, we bought a house built back in the 80s that previous owners hadn't gotten around to updating. The first room I tackled had old wallpaper that a previous owner had painted over instead of removing. Your videos gave me the confidence to repair those walls and I get so many compliments on how great the finished result came out! I'm currently working on a guest room and removing popcorn ceiling using your techniques and advice and I'm confident it will turn out just as great. Thank you so much for all the information you put out here!
Dude, you just solved all my problems. I have been sanding it down too much. The edge always comes back....AND I don't go out far enough from the edges with the mud. I either see the edges or I get a visible lump. I was getting ready to flip out. Thank you for the excellent vid!
I've fixed hundreds of these, probably thousands, and I've tried about everything, including the use of mesh tape over it. But it might work sometimes, but it's not reliable. Here's the problem. If you have loose paper that will bubble, and you just put mesh tape over it, then it's still loose and you just put a band aid on it. The method in the video is the most reliable I've found, but thanks for your input.
If you dont like him taking time going over stuff there are many short half videos that do not explain things on youtube. But some of us need this rare diamond of a video that actually explains everything because we are new to the drywall world!
Thank you. You guys are why I go into detail. Sometimes I think some of my viewers think my videos need to be crafted exactly to their skill level, but I assume that plenty of novices are watching so I teach it all and let people skip to the part they need.
Its really nice to see someone who's a legit finisher on here. I started finishing in the late 70s and its easy to recognize another. Everybody listen to this guy. He really knows his trade
This popped up on my feed wasn’t even looking for it but was redoing my bathroom walls and the brown paper showed up after pulling off the mirror. So helpful. Thanks for being clear and concise. Very easy to follow.
This video is pure gold, I started ripping off wallpaper probably from the 80's in my house, I ended up with so many brown spots, that I think I'm just going to to a coat of the pro-999 all over the wall just to make sure everything is completely sealed. I have watched so many videos and this one is the one that explains everything so well. Thank you so much
I love this guy cause he muds exactly like I do. And if u don't have the product or its expensive, titebond glue mixed with some water seals the paper just fine. You heard him say its like Elmer's glue thinned down, because it probably basically is but for six times the cost. Almost any bonding agent will work.
Working in the commercial area. We have wall coverings that when removing take of 100% of the white paper. The product I’ve used was guardz. But thinning down the mud and applying with a roller. A two guy operation. Some times I wondered why we didn’t just laminate 1/4 rock over top if it wasn’t for the grid ceilings we probably would of. For those that don’t enjoy playing in the mud. It’s because you aren’t doing it right. Enjoyment can be found in any job done well. Keep up the good work. Enjoy your videos
I have to say I've been doing drywall/taping and finishing on and off for 35 years and I've never heard of this product. Granted I haven't done it professionally in over 10 years and do side work once in a while. I don't deny what the video shows but I have never used primer or any other product besides mud, hot mud or the pink stuff in the little container, added some heat from a heat gun and used a 12 inch knife for the finish with a light sand after drying and never had I had one of those repairs for torn paper be an issue. I'm sure this video helped a ton of people and maybe I've just been lucky all these years. I'd like to try this product to see if it helps the overall time of repair for me. Thank you.
Hi. Been at drywall repairs for 30 years too, and have been using this technique too... but had never found a good product to cover the brown paper. Thanks so much for sharing.
Your advice is greatly appreciated. I watched some DIYer videos do some things that seem "smart", but they are only looking to optimize the specific task (e.g. how to remove popcorn ceiling), but you have TONs of experience as a professional (learning from your mistakes early on working with your Dad, learning what works/what doesn't, etc.). Hence, you do a great job explaining where the current video topic fits in to the ENTIRE project without going down "bunny trails", but just a quick note to help us DIYers understand the "big picture".
Thanks you very much for this professional training, I've been painting and drywalling for over 22 years and watch your channel all the time, I've never used this primer /sealer you showed but definitely will try to find some, when I first started I had no idea what I was doing until I got more training from journeyman as time went on, I had in the beginning just mudded right over exposed brown paper and you're exactly correct, it repeatedly keeps bubbling and even if the surface dries you can push the bubbles in, kinda like embedding tape without enough mud underneath, it'll get bubbles and air pockets and turns into a disaster. I've always used white pigmented shellac but will definitely try this product. Thank you very much for your pro tips.
Love your videos! As a total DIY beginner who decided to tackle wall & ceiling cracks on her own, I can see all the mistakes I've done - I am so glad I found That Kilted Guy DIY - this will make the challenge a bit easier 🙂
I viewed this video twice to muster the courage to repair a hallway after stripping wallpaper. That Kilted Guy is on point. The key is wall prep, the product, and the tool. The video is excellent. My project turned out great. My mom said, "Wow, all that from a video?"
Sir, I’m a DIYer who likes to make sure the job is done right. I just removed my construction grade mirror. The damage left behind is ugly. Instead of just hiding that damage, I want to patch up the wall beautifully and then hang my new mirror up. Thank you for this lovely video that explains how to do so SO well! 🙌🏼. People like myself need this!
This was an extremely helpful video. It cleared up a lot of questions that I had and made me really confident in finishing my bathroom remodel. Thank you for making this.
You are my HERO!!!!!!!! I am Kristy. I live in a rented double wide tailor with my mom. I made a huge mistake of hanging up command strips to hang something heaving and it fell of. I did realize the wall is a bunch of different layers of paper type material. So I am to emebarrased of what I did and I want to fix it before the landlord come to help me hang up some shelves. Etc. Thank you so much for helping! You video is amazing. I really like how you explain what to do in your video it's easy for me to understand and I like how you showed the what not to do compared to the how to do it. Thank you so much
Kristyann, thank you so much for letting me know. It’s always nice to hear that I’ve helped somebody with a problem and it means a lot to me to be able to do that. Thanks again and let me know how it goes or if you have any other questions.
If you get time, consider checking out my Patreon page at www.patreon.com/thatkiltedguy. You can help support this channel by becoming a member there for as little as three dollars a month, but as a minimum it would be nice to have you as a supporter which cost you nothing. Members will get additional bonuses that nonmembers will not. But I do appreciate everyone’s support. Thanks again
This was very very helpful!!! I removed trim that was halfway up the wall (i think it’s called chair rail trim?), and luckily whoever installed it only used glue in a few spots, so the damage that I need to repair is minimal, but it’s still new territory for me! Thanks for being so thorough!
Glad I could help and thanks for the comment. Good luck on your repairs. And if this helped you please consider joining our Patreon group at www.patreon.com/thatkiltedguy
Thank you so much. I just bought a farm house built in 1950. I need all the help I can get. I am pretty sure I am going think outside the box. But I feel I'm going to have so much fun learning.
Thank you for your comment. I hope I can help you with some of your other projects because that’s what I’m here for. Be sure to subscribe and click on that bell icon and you’ll get notified each time we put out a video. We’re currently trying to put out two videos a week so I will see you on the next video. Thanks again, Guy
Iam a painter in san Francisco california... Have about 20 years painting.. First i was not putting any primer. On torn drywall .... Then. Bubbles show up.. I try to use oil primer.. Take to much time to dry.. Then start using (B-I-N primer alcohol) you can find it at home Depot..... Dry in one hour. And work great.. But i like watching videos about sheetrock painting etc.. Always learning something... You have a new subscriber at Your Channel Thanks for answering
Thankyou for the advice Not all negative comments are bad also any negative comments I say online I would say in person. I have friends and when we share something negative it’s to help each other. So there are many ways to say things
I have exactly the same drywall issue as the previous owner covered the wall with contact paper. It tore the brown paper off in many places when removing the contact paper. This video was fantastic to give me steps to fix the wall. Thank you very much for making the video.
What mud was used at 11:57. You mentioned “that mud”. I’m currently removing the popcorn ceiling and have some tears in my drywall so I am so happy I found this video and excited to tackle the repair.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. I do put a lot of work into the multi cam. Kilts are awesome, and I’m wearing one right now to go visit my wife in the hospital (knee replacement is all)
Shellac primer works great. Dries fast and thin, and really seals it in. I pretty much ripped off a whole wall (old Sheetrock). Did the whole thing twice and sanded it really quickly and mudded it. Came out fine (after I did an amateur skimming job).
You know, why not pass on my knowledge and skills, and I enjoy this, but I do hope to start making a living at it soon as it is a ton of work to put these out, so I am very thankful for comments like yours. 😎👣
Thank you - appreciate your detailed explanations and not just glossing over everything with a bunch of quick cuts. I'm a total noob at this but you have a new subscriber.
I am always shocked that people are so rude when person takes their time to make video to educate people and they complain or critique everything. Not everyone has the same methods for doing a job- unless their doing something obviously wrong, shut the hell up. Kilted guy, what is the purpose of two coats and what was different about the mud you used the second time? I am assuming it's a different type of product.
Hello, and thanks for the comment. I do find it sad that the Internet empowers people to say ugly things they wouldn’t say to your face. But they become bold and obnoxious bullies and I just ignore them, or provide a polite educational response. Sometimes I turn it into a funny response, but I don’t let it get to me. The first coat of mud I used was a fast setting joint compound (hot mud) which allows me to turn around and put another coat on it pretty quickly. It’s also less likely to bubble, shrink and is tougher. The second coat is a lightweight easy sanding all-purpose joint compound called plus 3. Locally we get it at Lowe’s and the Drywall Supply. We do two coats, because even the hot mud compound shrinks some, and regular joint compound shrinks quite a bit so it takes two or more coats to get it truly smooth. And I use the regular joint compound on the final coat because it’s much easier to sand. Hope that helps and feel free to ask any other questions, or just make general comments. It’s nice to have subscribers like yourself.
Totally agree. Myself included, I have very little experience with tape & spackle unlike my 30+ years of automotive expertise. In my field you see a lot of obnoxious folks online as well. I also don't get involved or otherwise let it get to me.
Thank you for the kind comments. And I actually don't let the negatives get to me. I can choose to just delete them and block the user, but I allow some just to show the narrow mindedness, and because they say even negative comments will help our channel grow, so I just blow it off. But, I DO delete the really ugly comments and block them, so they have wasted their time.
What a lifesaver your video was! I am a diy senior lady with a friend that had to remove wallpaper that had been painted on probably 20 years ago.... what a job! Anyway, we had large patches of brown and knew that was a problem......I got the stuff from Sherwin williams just now and hope to put your knowledge to work tomorrow! Thank you. So much!
Hi, thanks for subscribing and for the comment. I basically do ignore them, but I also reply because I like to educate society since a lot of people don’t understand why a guy would wear a kilt, go barefoot, etc. and TH-cam algorithm likes when we reply. Thanks again
MH Ready Patch is a solvent based patching compound . Home Depot or Lowe’s has it . It dries hard and fast like hot mud . The key is that it’s solvent based so it won’t lift that raw paper without using a primer product . A water based primer or patching compound is what causes the problem with that raw paper . I started off over 20 years ago as a sand and prime guy , then learned how to finish pretty well , but eventually started painting interior / exterior . The experience I gained early on in drywall has taught me things other painters just don’t know or can’t do .
I bet that helps. But here's my thing. I've specialized in nothing by repairs for about 20 years now and have probably fixed 20,000 brown paper spots. Early on they fought me a lot so I started experimenting, and I thought, how about oil based kilz in a can? Same reasoning you mentioned, and it was better, but still had too many failures. I've found far less failures with the RX-35, or Gaurdz, and lately even spray adhesive. Still experimenting and going to try and do a video comparing it. I tried once and ruined a whole sheet of drywall on my test easel, and couldn't get it to work like I wanted, lol Thanks for the insight. I might have to try that in my video.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY it’s all about process . There is no one way or right way . I certainly don’t mean to hijack your comment section . I know you know your shit !! 100% !! The fact is the next guy on the job site is the painter . A lot of times the painter does the repairs . In my process , I isolate that type of repair with MH Ready Patch , 3 coats , wiped flat , sanded flat , and the only place there is any patch left is in the indentation in and around the hole . Prime with prep right pro block from Sherwin , two coats of finish and done ! 👍👍 I’ve screwed things up so bad in the past with the traditional drywall finisher techniques doing patches over painted walls that it looked like the walls had the mumps !! Try the MH ready patch . The stuff just a year ago was about $6 a quart and now it’s about $15 !! Sherwin stopped carrying it about 3 years ago because they stopped carrying products by zinsser . 👍👍 Thanks for bullshitting with me
I tore my walls pretty good trying to remove 8 coats of paint over 3 layers of wallpaper. Not sure who decided to do that to these walls before I got the house but their poor craftsmanship caused me to go at the removal a bit more aggressively than I should have. I'll definitely be using the techniques in this video to fix all the nonsense going on with my walls.
I bought the Roman's 999 last night after seeing you recommend it in another video several months ago. The new house has some full hand sized areas where there is brown paper after the older plastic corner bead was removed but the many coats of paint were not cut off of it first so it tore huge areas when removed I'm going to be using the Roman's 999 to repair it all before installing the new vinyl corners. I've never used the vinyl bead before so I came back to your channel to look for another video to show me how Thanks for always being my go to guy
Hope you get this message ! Question- I am gonna be buying the sealant from amazon , my question is if the damage is fairly bad , Should I also be using a tape before mudding? And which one ? Thank you and hope too hear back from you , keep posting, Fantastic channel!
Hi, the only time I add joint tape is if there's a crack, or it's broken up, or you peeled it all the way down to the raw white gypsum, and then only if that section of white is bigger than about 3" across. If it's a very large section of raw gypsum, I usually cut it out and replace it. And, Thanks for subscribing and helping me hit the 100,000 subscriber mark by my birthday on June 10th, 2021. I truly appreciate it. Guy
Katie, I’m glad to hear that. Thanks for stopping by. I’m just curious, did you find us through a TH-cam search or did TH-cam recommend our video to you?
Thank you. I removed the wallpaper from my bathroom and had no idea what were those brown papers. I thought it was part of wallpaper. Now I know how to fix it. I hope I can do it.. People should mind their own business and stop judging others. Unbelievable.I really liked your video.
Just follow the steps I showed you and I’m quite sure you will be happy with the results. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for stopping by and for subscribing.
I wish I had viewed these videos before I papered over the drywall paper layer in my bathroom! Some of the brown paper came loose when I removed the old wallpaper, and I simply papered over it. It's hardly visible; someone who doesn't know where the spot is would probably not see it. BUT - I know where it is and have a hard time not seeing it. :)
Hi! New Sub. I wish that I had this information years ago. Since I am new to your channel, I want to thank you for your professional demeanor and lightheartedness as well.. Like so many others, when you purchase a home wallpapered in multiple rooms, you never know what lies beneath. I have one room left that has textured border as a border at the top and midway down the wall, on top of textured wallpaper.. also underneath wall paper, as many of the other walls were, it has walls of Black Paint.. I wish i was kidding, but I'm not. On top of this the wallpaper was improperly installed so there are the large pieces of brown as shown in your video, plus Lots of holes hidden behind wallpaper. I have more time than money at this point and would love to have some of your expert advice used appreciatively here in my home. Sorry so long but I think I stumbled on a gem with your channel. Thanks for the requests, Looking forward to All your videos!
Hi, and thanks for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoy my channel, and I enjoy helping you all. I look forward to hearing from you again. Take care, Guy 😎👣
You know, I think it will. I have peal stop and I have tried to do a new torn paper video testing 10 or 12 products but it’s really difficult to replicate the torn paper like that in my studio so I’m still working on it. But I do believe it will work.
Thanks for the effort to share your experience. Of course this also illustrates the divide between the pro and the amateur, where you've got a special product that seems to work better. Most of us would never use a whole gallon of that. Next time I try it, I think I'll try watered down white glue, ha ha.
For the sanding block the one that has a wedge shape on one side works best for sand feathering an edge. Use the wedge side. If you use the pad a lot I wrap a fresh piece of sandpaper around it and pin into it with T-pins on the side to hold paper. Replace as necessary, works good. Been using the same sanding block for years.
Thank you for the excellent video. I really appreciate you taking the time to help others and share your experience with those at different stages of the learning process. I am sure good Karma will follow. In appreciation, Carm
I got one of those tiny brown paper spots on my wall from ripping off an M3 double-sided tape. Wish I had checked TH-cam first before I ripped it off, saving me grief.Next I got the bright idea to buy a Homax Wall Patch & Repair Kit and have been dreading using it the past few months. Then I thought maybe I should watch how to use this repair kit on TH-cam and realized it's for holes! Finally, I found your video and thank goodness I didn't use that repair kit! Thanks for this helpful video.
AWESOME! I'm so glad I saved you a lot of un needed work. You'll find this much easier to fix your wall with. Thanks for the comment, and let me know how it goes, ok? I'm glad to help if you need. Take care, Guy
i like zinnser problem surface sealer better but that stuff in a can is for when you are doing an entire wall. those spot repairs you can just use kilz oil spray primer for spot primnig
Well, that would make that wall a bit weaker as far is being resistant to punctures and such, but otherwise you would repair it is in the same technique as in this video. I hope that helps, and if it did, you can tip me if you’d like by buying me a Ko-fi sometime at ko-fi.com/thatkiltedguy. Thanks, Guy
Thanks for the reply guy. I’m going to get the product you showed and give that a try but I think I will try the shellac on some scrap drywall and I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again. Ron
Step by Step Hope this helps! 1. Sand 2. Cut around edges (if really torn) 3. Peel off with knife (just trying to get loose parts) 4. Pro-999 RX-35 (put a solid coat, will dry in an hour) 5. Mud (use 6” knife) EasySand20 (fast setting mud) 6. Sand down (sand smoothly and around edges) 7. 2nd coat of mud Plus3 by USG (or lightweight all purpose mud) make sure to not coat too think or will get bubbles) 8. Sand edges (tilt and apply pressure, do not flat sand it)
Guy, Awesome explanation that even someone like me can follow! I have a little different of an issue relating to drywall damage I am wondering if you could comment on. I have three rooms in my home where a previous owner removed wallpaper damaging the drywall like shown in your videos, but painted over the damage. Now I have these damaged walls that have been painted, and in a couple of cases, painted more than once. There is pretty extensive damage. Because of the walls have been painted over the damage could I use these same steps? Thanks again for your helpful videos.
Hey Mike, thanks for asking and being part of my TH-cam community. IF the painted over spots didn't bubble, then I'd just lightly scrape, then lightly sand and coat it, pretty much like in this video. IF IT DID bubble, then cut it out and go from there, like in the video. Hope that helps and if you appreciate my help, I hope you'll consider joining my Patreon page for as little as $1.00 a month. www.patreon.com/thatkiltedguy , Thanks again, Guy
I also just set up a new tip page where you can buy me a Ko-Fi, at ko-fi.com/thatkiltedguy. It's a pretty cool way to tip me, so it's just another option. Thanks
I've tried primers, and still had too many failures. I'm testing some new methods lately, that will be easier and cheaper to do. I plan a followup video to this one and will test several methods and will show some methods that will fail. So be watching for that video pretty soon. But here's a few to try, spray adhesive, or oil based Kilz, although I've had failures with that one too. Thanks for the questions. Guy
So far it's working for me. (I looked for the recommended product but it doesnt exist here, and ordering it online was prohibitively expensive) The Zissner was the next best thing that I could find. It looked like it bubbled at first bit then they tightened up. I've had the primer up for about 2 weeks (I have textures I need to get rid of and I'm not sure how to proceed so it's just sitting lol) with no apparent issues.
What if I’ve already put a coat of paint over the damaged spot thinking that Paint would cover it? I’ve put compound over it twice and sanded it but it doesn’t seem to help
Hello, once it fails by bubbling, you just have to basically do what I did in this video and cut around it and peel off the bubbling portion and start over. That’s why I treat all of my brown paper spots with this product to avoid failures that I have to redo. If you have any further questions let me know. I hope that helps. Guy
I hit your site because you refer back to the masses and don't just post vids to hear yourself. Some of these guys post vids and never get to the comments like they are some kind of movie star. Thank you
What would you recommend doing if you started to repair before watching this video and now there are cracks and bubbles because you didn’t prime it before apply mud? 🙈
I have never seen that product in my market. I use killz in spray can. Need to use the original and not the low odor. It works well, been using it for years with no problems, and it dries in 10 minutes or so. The major drawback to the product you showed is the extended dry time. Good video
This man knows his stuff! The basic rule of thumb for filling with mud is to build it up some, THEN sand it down to flush! It's so much easier to sand it DOWN TO flush, than it is to guess on how much to fill (or not put enough mud on) because it does shrink some! So.... you end up having to put on several thin coats ...and you still end up having to build it up, just to sand it to flush! Better to have a little too much than not enough!
Here's my first attempt with Rx-35: I treated several brown paper spots with Rx-35, let it dry 24 hr., then first coat of 20-minute hot mud, and I was quite surprised to see bubbling on some, not all, of the spots next day. Is one coat of Rx-35 usually enough? I regret I didn't take pictures before I put on my second coat of mud. Should I have started over? Any other suggestions?
Hello, if it bubbled it’s possible that you still had a layer of brown paper that was loose and needed to be removed before you put the RX 35 on. You do have to get all the loose stuff off. Two coats are better than one if you have the time to let each coat dry. If it does bubble, I would simply cut out just the bubble part and recoat it and go from there.
Also, everyone should be sure and subscribe and click the bell icon if you are interested in this subject as I'm shooting a new video testing 10 new ways to repair these, and showing why it can fail, what to do about it, testing 2 coats vs 1, etc. Here's the subscribe link- goo.gl/hCyPDk
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY in response to this issue if the damage isnt near the edge of the rock and prob not having a stress fracture at anytime would cutting the paper out in that area down to the rock be acceptable and avoiding the bubble issue all together? I realize the paper has its strengthening purpose but when in doubt can we rip it out?
I am glad I watched this video. I wish I had watched it when I was working on my bathroom. Luckily, my work is covered by my mirror. Also, I wish you could shoe how to repair a wall with texture.
Dang, I was hoping for the nail polish fix. I've got so much of that stuff. ;) Nevertheless, I happened to have the product you mentioned that I just bought at Home Depot since I was using it on another project. The stars must be aligned for me right now.
I looked, and yes, they're aligned. I had to nudge one but it's good now. Lol. We have over 100 bottles of nail polish so I get that. And glad you found the RX35 locally. Hope it works for you.
I'm a journeyman level Taper, I still check out vids to see what's being posted. This guy is spot on correct 101% of the time. Always 2 ways to skin a cat, but this guy is showing you the correct way to do it
Good video Guy. Thanks. A drywaller years ago (probably 15- 20 years ago) told me he used shellac to seal the white and brown paper for repairs like you show with the added benefit that it’s usually dry in 10-15 minutes. Do you see any issues using shellac to make similar repairs? Thanks for all the great content. Ron
Hello, shellac probably will work, but I’ve never tried it. I have however tried oil based primer and it worked better than nothing, but I still had a roughly 10% failure rate. With this product it’s more like 1%. I’ve been experimenting lately with applying a spray adhesive and rubbing it in and I can coat the spot in about 20 minutes this way and it seems to work so far. There’s a couple options for you and I hope something helps. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for stopping by.
I'm going to look for that product! I usually use some type of primer and then hot mud but I've run into as issue every now and then. When I've run into an issue with it bubbling I'll knock the bubble with a hammer and then re apply hot mud. No one ever showed me that method but it's seems to work. Thanks for sharing your vid.
I actually just shot the first part of a new video today trying out 11 methods including water-based primer, oil base primer, and some other cool ideas including hairspray. Be sure to check it out when it comes out as it may be pretty interesting.
good stuff but takes too long to dry... sand with sanding sponge almost down to gypsum, spray with rattle can of KILLZ, And coat with a pan of 5 minute hot mud.....You can finish that entire wall with 2 coats and texture in the time it takes for that stuff to dry
When you need to start coating right away that can work. I’m almost always doing other repairs in addition to these spots so the drying time is fine with me. I used to try the kilz a lot and it worked about 80% of the time and maybe 90%, but I still had too many failures. This product is more like 99% success. Another technique I’ve been experimenting with that seems to be working is simply spraying spray adhesive on it, rubbing it in and then I can coat the repair in 15 minutes with five minute hot mud. Getting rid of the brown paper is another option, but if you have six or eight or 10 of them like I often do, I prefer another method. I don’t really like ever leaving the raw drywall exposed and would probably tape it with mesh tape if I did. Thanks for the input and for stopping by.
It is similar. I have painted about 10 cars including my 1927 model T ina Candy burgundy and automotive painting requires more attention to detail because the glossy paint shows everything as I’m sure you know. But the mudding skills are similar. Thanks for helping me build my channel to 100,000 subscribers and beyond
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O98
Despite what some others have said: Thank you for explaining things thoroughly at the beginning. There are people like me who have no prior knowledge, and this explains it very well.
Hi and thanks for the comment. It’s too bad some want things specifically their way. I’m glad you appreciate that I cover it thoroughly and I will continue to do so. Thanks and I will chat with you next time.
Agreed. Thank you Guy. I'm "a girly girl" but I will be "diving in soon" to repair my bathroom walls (, which currently look much like what you just showed us - eeek!) Your vid here has made me feel much more "confident" that I just might pull this first dive off and become the duck-in-the-water I've always wanted to be! Really, so glad you took the time to create this vid. LOL! I'll tell you how it turns out... ~v~
Thanks for the comments. And don't forget to let me know how it goes. Good luck! - Guy
I agree. The best part of his vids is that he actually EXPLAINS things! Which so few people do!
Thank you. I'm glad I'm helping you learn.
All you do it yourselfers, listen to this man when it comes to drywall finishing. He is telling you the correct ways to do it!
Thank you
Thats so cool that little baby (Gr8Lampini) is allready watching drywall videos and knows when someone is doing it right or wrong.
Do you really need to do a second coat pf mud considering youre going to skim coat it providing you got the first coat smoothe and it smoothes after sanding?
What type mud are you using for the second coat?
@@davidreynolds4684 there’s no hard fast rules for any of this. Use your judgment. I prefer USG +3
I just wanted to drop a huge thank you on this video. About a year ago, we bought a house built back in the 80s that previous owners hadn't gotten around to updating. The first room I tackled had old wallpaper that a previous owner had painted over instead of removing. Your videos gave me the confidence to repair those walls and I get so many compliments on how great the finished result came out! I'm currently working on a guest room and removing popcorn ceiling using your techniques and advice and I'm confident it will turn out just as great. Thank you so much for all the information you put out here!
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Www.Patreon.Com/thatkiltedguy
I like the way he shows how various mistakes are made & and then shows how to fix them.
Not mistakes when u remove wallpaper it won’t come out perfect it will always get indents in the wall and pealed drywall paper
Dude, you just solved all my problems. I have been sanding it down too much. The edge always comes back....AND I don't go out far enough from the edges with the mud. I either see the edges or I get a visible lump. I was getting ready to flip out. Thank you for the excellent vid!
Excellent. That’s my goal so glad to hear! Thanks for stopping by. I’ve got many more videos next time you need help.
Dude next time you can put mash tape and you dont need the sealer but if you have a lot of them get the sealer. Hope my advice help you as well
I've fixed hundreds of these, probably thousands, and I've tried about everything, including the use of mesh tape over it. But it might work sometimes, but it's not reliable. Here's the problem. If you have loose paper that will bubble, and you just put mesh tape over it, then it's still loose and you just put a band aid on it. The method in the video is the most reliable I've found, but thanks for your input.
If you dont like him taking time going over stuff there are many short half videos that do not explain things on youtube. But some of us need this rare diamond of a video that actually explains everything because we are new to the drywall world!
Thank you. You guys are why I go into detail. Sometimes I think some of my viewers think my videos need to be crafted exactly to their skill level, but I assume that plenty of novices are watching so I teach it all and let people skip to the part they need.
Its really nice to see someone who's a legit finisher on here. I started finishing in the late 70s and its easy to recognize another. Everybody listen to this guy. He really knows his trade
Thanks. I first walked on stilts in 1969 at the age of 8 so similar time frame.
This popped up on my feed wasn’t even looking for it but was redoing my bathroom walls and the brown paper showed up after pulling off the mirror. So helpful. Thanks for being clear and concise. Very easy to follow.
This video is pure gold, I started ripping off wallpaper probably from the 80's in my house, I ended up with so many brown spots, that I think I'm just going to to a coat of the pro-999 all over the wall just to make sure everything is completely sealed. I have watched so many videos and this one is the one that explains everything so well. Thank you so much
I love this guy cause he muds exactly like I do. And if u don't have the product or its expensive, titebond glue mixed with some water seals the paper just fine. You heard him say its like Elmer's glue thinned down, because it probably basically is but for six times the cost. Almost any bonding agent will work.
Working in the commercial area. We have wall coverings that when removing take of 100% of the white paper. The product I’ve used was guardz. But thinning down the mud and applying with a roller. A two guy operation. Some times I wondered why we didn’t just laminate 1/4 rock over top if it wasn’t for the grid ceilings we probably would of.
For those that don’t enjoy playing in the mud. It’s because you aren’t doing it right. Enjoyment can be found in any job done well.
Keep up the good work. Enjoy your videos
I have to say I've been doing drywall/taping and finishing on and off for 35 years and I've never heard of this product. Granted I haven't done it professionally in over 10 years and do side work once in a while. I don't deny what the video shows but I have never used primer or any other product besides mud, hot mud or the pink stuff in the little container, added some heat from a heat gun and used a 12 inch knife for the finish with a light sand after drying and never had I had one of those repairs for torn paper be an issue. I'm sure this video helped a ton of people and maybe I've just been lucky all these years. I'd like to try this product to see if it helps the overall time of repair for me. Thank you.
Hi. Been at drywall repairs for 30 years too, and have been using this technique too... but had never found a good product to cover the brown paper. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks for the comment and for subscribing! Guy
Dean Edward did you try this product? How does it stand vs killz aerosol or guardz?
Your advice is greatly appreciated. I watched some DIYer videos do some things that seem "smart", but they are only looking to optimize the specific task (e.g. how to remove popcorn ceiling), but you have TONs of experience as a professional (learning from your mistakes early on working with your Dad, learning what works/what doesn't, etc.). Hence, you do a great job explaining where the current video topic fits in to the ENTIRE project without going down "bunny trails", but just a quick note to help us DIYers understand the "big picture".
Thanks, I do try to be thorough and 'teach' instead of just demonstrate.
Thanks you very much for this professional training, I've been painting and drywalling for over 22 years and watch your channel all the time, I've never used this primer /sealer you showed but definitely will try to find some, when I first started I had no idea what I was doing until I got more training from journeyman as time went on, I had in the beginning just mudded right over exposed brown paper and you're exactly correct, it repeatedly keeps bubbling and even if the surface dries you can push the bubbles in, kinda like embedding tape without enough mud underneath, it'll get bubbles and air pockets and turns into a disaster. I've always used white pigmented shellac but will definitely try this product. Thank you very much for your pro tips.
You’re welcome
Thank you for your input! It’s a pleasure to be of help.
Love your videos! As a total DIY beginner who decided to tackle wall & ceiling cracks on her own, I can see all the mistakes I've done - I am so glad I found That Kilted Guy DIY - this will make the challenge a bit easier 🙂
I viewed this video twice to muster the courage to repair a hallway after stripping wallpaper. That Kilted Guy is on point. The key is wall prep, the product, and the tool. The video is excellent. My project turned out great. My mom said, "Wow, all that from a video?"
Awesome! That's why I do these videos, to help you #DoItRight. Thanks for sharing.
I am so glad people are willing to upload videos like this and share what they know. Thank you!!!
Thank you for the comment. I truly appreciate it.
The exact video I needed to see. Thank you for taking the time to make this!
I did find this at Home Depot 12/2022… product works great, really seals the torn paper. A+
Sir, I’m a DIYer who likes to make sure the job is done right. I just removed my construction grade mirror. The damage left behind is ugly. Instead of just hiding that damage, I want to patch up the wall beautifully and then hang my new mirror up. Thank you for this lovely video that explains how to do so SO well! 🙌🏼. People like myself need this!
Thanks Paola, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
www.ThatKiltedGuy.com
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY in 4X5 GG KKK9V9VH9V9KVH9KV HD CYCLING
We have used Zinser Gardz with good success as well. Nice video!
Yeah it's good stuff.
This was an extremely helpful video. It cleared up a lot of questions that I had and made me really confident in finishing my bathroom remodel. Thank you for making this.
Excellent, glad to hear that. Thanks for commenting and let me know how it goes.
You are my HERO!!!!!!!! I am Kristy. I live in a rented double wide tailor with my mom. I made a huge mistake of hanging up command strips to hang something heaving and it fell of. I did realize the wall is a bunch of different layers of paper type material. So I am to emebarrased of what I did and I want to fix it before the landlord come to help me hang up some shelves. Etc. Thank you so much for helping! You video is amazing. I really like how you explain what to do in your video it's easy for me to understand and I like how you showed the what not to do compared to the how to do it. Thank you so much
Kristyann, thank you so much for letting me know. It’s always nice to hear that I’ve helped somebody with a problem and it means a lot to me to be able to do that. Thanks again and let me know how it goes or if you have any other questions.
If you get time, consider checking out my Patreon page at www.patreon.com/thatkiltedguy. You can help support this channel by becoming a member there for as little as three dollars a month, but as a minimum it would be nice to have you as a supporter which cost you nothing. Members will get additional bonuses that nonmembers will not. But I do appreciate everyone’s support. Thanks again
This was very very helpful!!! I removed trim that was halfway up the wall (i think it’s called chair rail trim?), and luckily whoever installed it only used glue in a few spots, so the damage that I need to repair is minimal, but it’s still new territory for me! Thanks for being so thorough!
Thanks. Glad I could help
I just apply paint that I am going to use for that wall over the torn patch; when it dries, I continue with the wall compound
I"ll be moving soon and have some repairs just like these. Thanks for the video - very helpful for us folks who have no clue :)
Glad I could help and thanks for the comment. Good luck on your repairs. And if this helped you please consider joining our Patreon group at www.patreon.com/thatkiltedguy
Thank you so much. I just bought a farm house built in 1950. I need all the help I can get. I am pretty sure I am going think outside the box. But I feel I'm going to have so much fun learning.
Thank you for your comment. I hope I can help you with some of your other projects because that’s what I’m here for. Be sure to subscribe and click on that bell icon and you’ll get notified each time we put out a video. We’re currently trying to put out two videos a week so I will see you on the next video. Thanks again, Guy
Question- Did you have some brown paper bubble on you, or did you watch this to find out how to handle the brown paper?
Iam a painter in san Francisco california... Have about 20 years painting.. First i was not putting any primer. On torn drywall .... Then. Bubbles show up.. I try to use oil primer.. Take to much time to dry.. Then start using (B-I-N primer alcohol) you can find it at home Depot..... Dry in one hour. And work great.. But i like watching videos about sheetrock painting etc.. Always learning something... You have a new subscriber at Your Channel Thanks for answering
I came here looking for how to handle the exposed brown paper and you were very helpful. Thank you!
I watched it. Thank you for this video and thank you for your service.
Thank you
This is helpful. Do you have to use this stuff before tile backsplash as well?
Thankyou for the advice
Not all negative comments are bad also any negative comments I say online I would say in person. I have friends and when we share something negative it’s to help each other. So there are many ways to say things
I have exactly the same drywall issue as the previous owner covered the wall with contact paper. It tore the brown paper off in many places when removing the contact paper. This video was fantastic to give me steps to fix the wall. Thank you very much for making the video.
What mud was used at 11:57. You mentioned “that mud”. I’m currently removing the popcorn ceiling and have some tears in my drywall so I am so happy I found this video and excited to tackle the repair.
I use hot mud for fast fills, with quick recoat times, or deeper fills, USG Plus 3 for the rest, including top coats, texture, etc
Thank you for making this helpful video. I feel empowered to fix a mess I made on my drywall. "That Kilted Guy" comes to the rescue, again!
Just follow my guidelines, and yes, you can do it, and Do it Right!
been doing this for 58 years. and I use binz alcohol primer. works good
There's numerous products that work. Thanks for sharing.
You got my like when you pulled out the nail polish joke. Lol
T
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Pro 999 worked great and my walls were horrible after wallpaper removal. Thank you for showing these tips! Saved me $$$
Great to hear!
Sweet multicam bro, I subbed on the kilt alone.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. I do put a lot of work into the multi cam. Kilts are awesome, and I’m wearing one right now to go visit my wife in the hospital (knee replacement is all)
Shellac primer works great. Dries fast and thin, and really seals it in. I pretty much ripped off a whole wall (old Sheetrock). Did the whole thing twice and sanded it really quickly and mudded it. Came out fine (after I did an amateur skimming job).
Thanks for your time and your contribution to us amateurs as I.
You know, why not pass on my knowledge and skills, and I enjoy this, but I do hope to start making a living at it soon as it is a ton of work to put these out, so I am very thankful for comments like yours. 😎👣
Thank you - appreciate your detailed explanations and not just glossing over everything with a bunch of quick cuts. I'm a total noob at this but you have a new subscriber.
I am always shocked that people are so rude when person takes their time to make video to educate people and they complain or critique everything. Not everyone has the same methods for doing a job- unless their doing something obviously wrong, shut the hell up.
Kilted guy, what is the purpose of two coats and what was different about the mud you used the second time? I am assuming it's a different type of product.
Hello, and thanks for the comment. I do find it sad that the Internet empowers people to say ugly things they wouldn’t say to your face. But they become bold and obnoxious bullies and I just ignore them, or provide a polite educational response. Sometimes I turn it into a funny response, but I don’t let it get to me.
The first coat of mud I used was a fast setting joint compound (hot mud) which allows me to turn around and put another coat on it pretty quickly. It’s also less likely to bubble, shrink and is tougher. The second coat is a lightweight easy sanding all-purpose joint compound called plus 3. Locally we get it at Lowe’s and the Drywall Supply. We do two coats, because even the hot mud compound shrinks some, and regular joint compound shrinks quite a bit so it takes two or more coats to get it truly smooth. And I use the regular joint compound on the final coat because it’s much easier to sand.
Hope that helps and feel free to ask any other questions, or just make general comments. It’s nice to have subscribers like yourself.
Totally agree. Myself included, I have very little experience with tape & spackle unlike my 30+ years of automotive expertise. In my field you see a lot of obnoxious folks online as well. I also don't get involved or otherwise let it get to me.
...so why trash talk someone that took the time to share knowledge? Thanks for your videos!
Thank you for the kind comments. And I actually don't let the negatives get to me. I can choose to just delete them and block the user, but I allow some just to show the narrow mindedness, and because they say even negative comments will help our channel grow, so I just blow it off. But, I DO delete the really ugly comments and block them, so they have wasted their time.
We have to be more sensible and respect one another.
What a lifesaver your video was! I am a diy senior lady with a friend that had to remove wallpaper that had been painted on probably 20 years ago.... what a job! Anyway, we had large patches of brown and knew that was a problem......I got the stuff from Sherwin williams just now and hope to put your knowledge to work tomorrow! Thank you. So much!
OMG😘! So glad I found your videos. I love DIY home improvements. Thank you for explaining the process step by step.
You are so welcome!
That Kilted Guy is a rock star! Love learning from these brilliant videos.
Thank you for a great vid, very professional, ignore some of the comments just guys trying to be funny, you know your craft, I liked and subscribed!
Hi, thanks for subscribing and for the comment. I basically do ignore them, but I also reply because I like to educate society since a lot of people don’t understand why a guy would wear a kilt, go barefoot, etc. and TH-cam algorithm likes when we reply. Thanks again
MH Ready Patch is a solvent based patching compound . Home Depot or Lowe’s has it . It dries hard and fast like hot mud . The key is that it’s solvent based so it won’t lift that raw paper without using a primer product . A water based primer or patching compound is what causes the problem with that raw paper . I started off over 20 years ago as a sand and prime guy , then learned how to finish pretty well , but eventually started painting interior / exterior . The experience I gained early on in drywall has taught me things other painters just don’t know or can’t do .
I bet that helps. But here's my thing. I've specialized in nothing by repairs for about 20 years now and have probably fixed 20,000 brown paper spots. Early on they fought me a lot so I started experimenting, and I thought, how about oil based kilz in a can? Same reasoning you mentioned, and it was better, but still had too many failures. I've found far less failures with the RX-35, or Gaurdz, and lately even spray adhesive. Still experimenting and going to try and do a video comparing it. I tried once and ruined a whole sheet of drywall on my test easel, and couldn't get it to work like I wanted, lol Thanks for the insight. I might have to try that in my video.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY it’s all about process . There is no one way or right way . I certainly don’t mean to hijack your comment section . I know you know your shit !! 100% !!
The fact is the next guy on the job site is the painter . A lot of times the painter does the repairs . In my process , I isolate that type of repair with MH Ready Patch , 3 coats , wiped flat , sanded flat , and the only place there is any patch left is in the indentation in and around the hole . Prime with prep right pro block from Sherwin , two coats of finish and done ! 👍👍
I’ve screwed things up so bad in the past with the traditional drywall finisher techniques doing patches over painted walls that it looked like the walls had the mumps !!
Try the MH ready patch . The stuff just a year ago was about $6 a quart and now it’s about $15 !! Sherwin stopped carrying it about 3 years ago because they stopped carrying products by zinsser . 👍👍
Thanks for bullshitting with me
I checked my smoke detector during this video. It was NOT mine. Great job of explanation.
Cool
Thanks for the heads up. I am trying to prep a wall with exactly this problem after removing wall paper. What a nightmare.
I tore my walls pretty good trying to remove 8 coats of paint over 3 layers of wallpaper. Not sure who decided to do that to these walls before I got the house but their poor craftsmanship caused me to go at the removal a bit more aggressively than I should have. I'll definitely be using the techniques in this video to fix all the nonsense going on with my walls.
I bought the Roman's 999 last night after seeing you recommend it in another video several months ago.
The new house has some full hand sized areas where there is brown paper after the older plastic corner bead was removed but the many coats of paint were not cut off of it first so it tore huge areas when removed
I'm going to be using the Roman's 999 to repair it all before installing the new vinyl corners.
I've never used the vinyl bead before so I came back to your channel to look for another video to show me how
Thanks for always being my go to guy
I did give you a link in your other comment and thank you for being a long time supporter of my channel!
This is the most useful video I’ve ever seen! Thank you so much!
Thank you. I'm glad I could help out. Stay in touch, ok?
get your mud on girl friend
My online class has just started in drywall repairs . Gracia Amigo !
De nada.
We would use water base clear coat to seal torn drywall.
Hope you get this message ! Question- I am gonna be buying the sealant from amazon , my question is if the damage is fairly bad , Should I also be using a tape before mudding? And which one ? Thank you and hope too hear back from you , keep posting, Fantastic channel!
Hi, the only time I add joint tape is if there's a crack, or it's broken up, or you peeled it all the way down to the raw white gypsum, and then only if that section of white is bigger than about 3" across. If it's a very large section of raw gypsum, I usually cut it out and replace it.
And, Thanks for subscribing and helping me hit the 100,000 subscriber mark by my birthday on June 10th, 2021. I truly appreciate it. Guy
Traditional Scotsmen! Shout out to Scotland, Miss my homeland. Thanks for the info,great video Kilt.
Not missing much bud. Atleast here in Edinburgh 🏴🤘
Thank you I love your videos that are easy to understand for beginners yet they are very helpful for professionals
I've just been hot mudding over torn paper, especially on ceilings lol. Thankfully nothing has ever bubbled out on me🤷♂️
It can work a fair amount of time but once it bites you, you learn too just treat them all first
same here and never had a problem.
It only does it sometimes but i prefer to treat it and never have a problem
Thank you! I just jacked up brand new walls and need to fix
This was very helpful to beginners like myself! Thank you!
Katie, I’m glad to hear that. Thanks for stopping by. I’m just curious, did you find us through a TH-cam search or did TH-cam recommend our video to you?
That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement I found this video by a youtube search of brown paper drywall fix!
Katie, thanks for letting me know that. It all helps!
Oh, and your explanation is perfect!! You just saved me from making a bunch of mistakes!!
Awesome 😎
Thank you. I removed the wallpaper from my bathroom and had no idea what were those brown papers. I thought it was part of wallpaper. Now I know how to fix it. I hope I can do it..
People should mind their own business and stop judging others. Unbelievable.I really liked your video.
Just follow the steps I showed you and I’m quite sure you will be happy with the results. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for stopping by and for subscribing.
I wish I had viewed these videos before I papered over the drywall paper layer in my bathroom! Some of the brown paper came loose when I removed the old wallpaper, and I simply papered over it. It's hardly visible; someone who doesn't know where the spot is would probably not see it. BUT - I know where it is and have a hard time not seeing it. :)
I usually use problock spray cans for small areas or a product called guards
Hi! New Sub. I wish that I had this information years ago. Since I am new to your channel, I want to thank you for your professional demeanor and lightheartedness as well.. Like so many others, when you purchase a home wallpapered in multiple rooms, you never know what lies beneath. I have one room left that has textured border as a border at the top and midway down the wall, on top of textured wallpaper.. also underneath wall paper, as many of the other walls were, it has walls of Black Paint.. I wish i was kidding, but I'm not. On top of this the wallpaper was improperly installed so there are the large pieces of brown as shown in your video, plus Lots of holes hidden behind wallpaper. I have more time than money at this point and would love to have some of your expert advice used appreciatively here in my home. Sorry so long but I think I stumbled on a gem with your channel. Thanks for the requests, Looking forward to All your videos!
Hi, and thanks for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoy my channel, and I enjoy helping you all. I look forward to hearing from you again. Take care, Guy 😎👣
We just started a bathroom redo and I watched this video just in time...thanks for the info!
That pro 999 looks like a peel stop type product. I wonder if using regular peel stop would do the same thing?
You know, I think it will. I have peal stop and I have tried to do a new torn paper video testing 10 or 12 products but it’s really difficult to replicate the torn paper like that in my studio so I’m still working on it. But I do believe it will work.
Thanks for the effort to share your experience. Of course this also illustrates the divide between the pro and the amateur, where you've got a special product that seems to work better. Most of us would never use a whole gallon of that. Next time I try it, I think I'll try watered down white glue, ha ha.
spelunkerd i have links to quarts of Guardz, a very similar product, in the description for that reason
Watered down glue will work. Just use titebond not elmers
Thank you for your service!
My pleasure, and thanks.
Thorough!!! Nailed every problem I've had over the years with this type of repair. It's those fine details that really helps. Thank you!
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
"Glue watered down..."
That's exactly what I use. Wood glue with a bit of thinning water.
I use a zinsser product that's shellac based best thing for water stains
For the sanding block the one that has a wedge shape on one side works best for sand feathering an edge. Use the wedge side. If you use the pad a lot I wrap a fresh piece of sandpaper around it and pin into it with T-pins on the side to hold paper. Replace as necessary, works good. Been using the same sanding block for years.
Thank you so much for posting this! It's one of the many things I have to repair.
Cool, 😎 glad I could help. And thanks for the comment.
Thank you so much, been looking to repair drywall in my late mom's home, gotta order and get started, ❤
Tried it this weekend works very good thanks you very the good info
Thank you for the excellent video. I really appreciate you taking the time to help others and share your experience with those at different stages of the learning process. I am sure good Karma will follow. In appreciation, Carm
Thank you so much. I love helping others learn some of these skills so you guys can do your own projects
I got one of those tiny brown paper spots on my wall from ripping off an M3 double-sided tape. Wish I had checked TH-cam first before I ripped it off, saving me grief.Next I got the bright idea to buy a Homax Wall Patch & Repair Kit and have been dreading using it the past few months. Then I thought maybe I should watch how to use this repair kit on TH-cam and realized it's for holes! Finally, I found your video and thank goodness I didn't use that repair kit! Thanks for this helpful video.
AWESOME! I'm so glad I saved you a lot of un needed work. You'll find this much easier to fix your wall with. Thanks for the comment, and let me know how it goes, ok? I'm glad to help if you need. Take care, Guy
I like the examples of some of the scenarios. They are very helpful
Thanks, glad to hear!
i like zinnser problem surface sealer better but that stuff in a can is for when you are doing an entire wall. those spot repairs you can just use kilz oil spray primer for spot primnig
Awesome technique for the smaller patches! What if you have an entire wall (almost) where the outer paper has ripped off down to the brown?
Well, that would make that wall a bit weaker as far is being resistant to punctures and such, but otherwise you would repair it is in the same technique as in this video.
I hope that helps, and if it did, you can tip me if you’d like by buying me a Ko-fi sometime at ko-fi.com/thatkiltedguy. Thanks, Guy
Thank you for your recommendation of the RX-35 PRO-999 product. It worked so well.
Thanks, glad I could help.
Thanks for the reply guy. I’m going to get the product you showed and give that a try but I think I will try the shellac on some scrap drywall and I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
Ron
Step by Step
Hope this helps!
1. Sand
2. Cut around edges (if really torn)
3. Peel off with knife (just trying to get loose parts)
4. Pro-999 RX-35 (put a solid coat, will dry in an hour)
5. Mud (use 6” knife) EasySand20 (fast setting mud)
6. Sand down (sand smoothly and around edges)
7. 2nd coat of mud Plus3 by USG (or lightweight all purpose mud) make sure to not coat too think or will get bubbles)
8. Sand edges (tilt and apply pressure, do not flat sand it)
Good outline, thanks. I would add to #5, 'put on thin'. And for# 8, sand flat, but not too much, then sand the edges.
Hi im just wondering. Do you have to do step number 7??
You only have to keep coating until it's smooth.
Guy, Awesome explanation that even someone like me can follow! I have a little different of an issue relating to drywall damage I am wondering if you could comment on. I have three rooms in my home where a previous owner removed wallpaper damaging the drywall like shown in your videos, but painted over the damage. Now I have these damaged walls that have been painted, and in a couple of cases, painted more than once. There is pretty extensive damage. Because of the walls have been painted over the damage could I use these same steps? Thanks again for your helpful videos.
Hey Mike, thanks for asking and being part of my TH-cam community. IF the painted over spots didn't bubble, then I'd just lightly scrape, then lightly sand and coat it, pretty much like in this video. IF IT DID bubble, then cut it out and go from there, like in the video. Hope that helps and if you appreciate my help, I hope you'll consider joining my Patreon page for as little as $1.00 a month. www.patreon.com/thatkiltedguy , Thanks again, Guy
I also just set up a new tip page where you can buy me a Ko-Fi, at ko-fi.com/thatkiltedguy. It's a pretty cool way to tip me, so it's just another option. Thanks
Thanks for replying Guy.
Thanks for replying Guy.
Zinzer makes a good product too, a thin stain covering primer works too
Can Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 also handle the torn drywall paper?
I've tried primers, and still had too many failures. I'm testing some new methods lately, that will be easier and cheaper to do. I plan a followup video to this one and will test several methods and will show some methods that will fail. So be watching for that video pretty soon. But here's a few to try, spray adhesive, or oil based Kilz, although I've had failures with that one too. Thanks for the questions. Guy
So far it's working for me. (I looked for the recommended product but it doesnt exist here, and ordering it online was prohibitively expensive) The Zissner was the next best thing that I could find. It looked like it bubbled at first bit then they tightened up. I've had the primer up for about 2 weeks (I have textures I need to get rid of and I'm not sure how to proceed so it's just sitting lol) with no apparent issues.
Ryan, locally I found it at Home Depot.
Kikz and rx-35 are not the same
5 years later and this helped me! Im also coming back to this video cause its the best 🙌🏾
What if I’ve already put a coat of paint over the damaged spot thinking that Paint would cover it? I’ve put compound over it twice and sanded it but it doesn’t seem to help
Hello, once it fails by bubbling, you just have to basically do what I did in this video and cut around it and peel off the bubbling portion and start over. That’s why I treat all of my brown paper spots with this product to avoid failures that I have to redo. If you have any further questions let me know. I hope that helps. Guy
I hit your site because you refer back to the masses and don't just post vids to hear yourself. Some of these guys post vids and never get to the comments like they are some kind of movie star. Thank you
Thanks. I try to truly help
What would you recommend doing if you started to repair before watching this video and now there are cracks and bubbles because you didn’t prime it before apply mud? 🙈
Do the same thing. Cut out the bubbling and defective areas, seal them, and then finish repairing them.
I have never seen that product in my market. I use killz in spray can. Need to use the original and not the low odor. It works well, been using it for years with no problems, and it dries in 10 minutes or so. The major drawback to the product you showed is the extended dry time. Good video
Could you hasten the dry time of the R-35 product with a blow dryer?
Hey, you keep right on narrating. Break it down so I will know every step.
Thank you! Will do.
This man knows his stuff!
The basic rule of thumb for filling with mud is to build it up some, THEN sand it down to flush! It's so much easier to sand it DOWN TO flush, than it is to guess on how much to fill (or not put enough mud on) because it does shrink some! So.... you end up having to put on several thin coats ...and you still end up having to build it up, just to sand it to flush! Better to have a little too much than not enough!
Here's my first attempt with Rx-35: I treated several brown paper spots with Rx-35, let it dry 24 hr., then first coat of 20-minute hot mud, and I was quite surprised to see bubbling on some, not all, of the spots next day. Is one coat of Rx-35 usually enough? I regret I didn't take pictures before I put on my second coat of mud. Should I have started over? Any other suggestions?
Hello, if it bubbled it’s possible that you still had a layer of brown paper that was loose and needed to be removed before you put the RX 35 on. You do have to get all the loose stuff off. Two coats are better than one if you have the time to let each coat dry. If it does bubble, I would simply cut out just the bubble part and recoat it and go from there.
Also, everyone should be sure and subscribe and click the bell icon if you are interested in this subject as I'm shooting a new video testing 10 new ways to repair these, and showing why it can fail, what to do about it, testing 2 coats vs 1, etc. Here's the subscribe link- goo.gl/hCyPDk
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY in response to this issue if the damage isnt near the edge of the rock and prob not having a stress fracture at anytime would cutting the paper out in that area down to the rock be acceptable and avoiding the bubble issue all together? I realize the paper has its strengthening purpose but when in doubt can we rip it out?
I am glad I watched this video. I wish I had watched it when I was working on my bathroom. Luckily, my work is covered by my mirror. Also, I wish you could shoe how to repair a wall with texture.
Dang, I was hoping for the nail polish fix. I've got so much of that stuff. ;) Nevertheless, I happened to have the product you mentioned that I just bought at Home Depot since I was using it on another project. The stars must be aligned for me right now.
I looked, and yes, they're aligned. I had to nudge one but it's good now. Lol.
We have over 100 bottles of nail polish so I get that. And glad you found the RX35 locally. Hope it works for you.
I'm a journeyman level Taper, I still check out vids to see what's being posted. This guy is spot on correct 101% of the time. Always 2 ways to skin a cat, but this guy is showing you the correct way to do it
Thank you. Guy
Good video Guy. Thanks. A drywaller years ago (probably 15- 20 years ago) told me he used shellac to seal the white and brown paper for repairs like you show with the added benefit that it’s usually dry in 10-15 minutes. Do you see any issues using shellac to make similar repairs?
Thanks for all the great content.
Ron
Hello, shellac probably will work, but I’ve never tried it. I have however tried oil based primer and it worked better than nothing, but I still had a roughly 10% failure rate. With this product it’s more like 1%. I’ve been experimenting lately with applying a spray adhesive and rubbing it in and I can coat the spot in about 20 minutes this way and it seems to work so far. There’s a couple options for you and I hope something helps. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for stopping by.
I'm going to look for that product! I usually use some type of primer and then hot mud but I've run into as issue every now and then. When I've run into an issue with it bubbling I'll knock the bubble with a hammer and then re apply hot mud. No one ever showed me that method but it's seems to work.
Thanks for sharing your vid.
I actually just shot the first part of a new video today trying out 11 methods including water-based primer, oil base primer, and some other cool ideas including hairspray. Be sure to check it out when it comes out as it may be pretty interesting.
That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement I will check it out for sure!
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY is this video out??
good stuff but takes too long to dry... sand with sanding sponge almost down to gypsum, spray with rattle can of KILLZ, And coat with a pan of 5 minute hot mud.....You can finish that entire wall with 2 coats and texture in the time it takes for that stuff to dry
When you need to start coating right away that can work. I’m almost always doing other repairs in addition to these spots so the drying time is fine with me. I used to try the kilz a lot and it worked about 80% of the time and maybe 90%, but I still had too many failures. This product is more like 99% success. Another technique I’ve been experimenting with that seems to be working is simply spraying spray adhesive on it, rubbing it in and then I can coat the repair in 15 minutes with five minute hot mud.
Getting rid of the brown paper is another option, but if you have six or eight or 10 of them like I often do, I prefer another method. I don’t really like ever leaving the raw drywall exposed and would probably tape it with mesh tape if I did.
Thanks for the input and for stopping by.
Thank you for the info! I'm an Auto body tech,it's nice to have skills of wiping/sanding dents. This is similar!
It is similar. I have painted about 10 cars including my 1927 model T ina Candy burgundy and automotive painting requires more attention to detail because the glossy paint shows everything as I’m sure you know. But the mudding skills are similar. Thanks for helping me build my channel to 100,000 subscribers and beyond