Well after a year of having the knowledge i finally decided to work on mine. When looking at the pins i found a few that looked like the solder has cracked. Soldered the connections and then bent the two spring contacts. Installed the unit and works perfectly now. Even fixed the washer fluid sprayer. Thank you very much. I did break the locking tab on the connector plug. Dang!
One of the most useful DIY videos I've watched in awhile. I have a 96 Impala SS that had the same problem. Using a multimeter to verify that the multifunctional steering column lever wasn't the culprit, I figured I'd replace the pulse control module circuit board. Guess what, outside of salvage yards and other B body owners' spare parts caches, there are no new replacement boards. Luckily I came across your video. A little skeptical, I tried the technique last night and installed the board this morning. It worked!!!! Even the delay function works perfectly now. Thanks man!!!
I'll have to try this on my 1993 Chevy S10 Blazer. I have had it for a long long time, since I was just about twenty, and I want to keep on enjoying my Blazer. thanks.
I wish I watched this before I replaced my $320 multi-switch inside! It was a pain to install and it’s staying now, but still didn’t fix the problem. Your free fix did fix it lol. Thanks for the help!
Yep found a hairline crack on the solder joint where the "brushes" solder to the board! I would suggest adding a little fresh rosin core solder to the solder joint to get it to flow and build up a little more strength to fight cracking. Thanks for the video!
@@skylerhagen9960 You can expect upwards of 10 years out of this repair as I have vehicles for customers still on the road with what I showed here. The solder used in automobile electronics in the 90s is vastly different than what's in use over the last decade or so. There's really no added value in mixing in the modern alloys, which are going to be quite inferior due to lacking lead which was present back when these boards were originally assembled.
Tip- a higher wattage iron (say, about 40w) with a larger tip can transfer the heat more quickly which actually reduces the chance of thermal damage during the rework. I find it helpful to apply a tiny bit of very fine rosin core electronic solder at the first contact with a given solder joint. the fresh solder & flux does seem to help get the initial heat transfer to go a little quicker. Anyway, I really appreciate this video, I know what I''ll be fixing on my 95 K1500 in the next few days!
We're using 350 degrees C on a high end digital soldering station here ;-) You'll find the connectors metal frame makes for quite the heat sink on this reflow chore.
That's the new designed one too, black connector which is supposed to be the fixed part. gray was the factory one that used to crap out out of nowhere. I had one go bad of the newer design. but the solder joints looked great, something happened and the wipers rested higher than normal in the off position. Swapped the board. Been fine. I have a small hoard of those boards. now they are made like junk Made in India or China or something + the price is nuts, I found a bunch. I put a little 3m strip caulking around the cover and leave the bottom edge open. I think mine got wet and that's what shorted it Every other GM has a sealed cover. BTW watch your passenger wiper arm your linkage is worn or loose it has the bounce. I had the same thing happen in my 94, Put 2 new GM linkages in it, Wipers are SUPER quiet No chatter. Best 40 or so bucks I ever spent. Now I think they cost more.
This one is a factory installed 1999 motor, and I too was surprised it gave out after 19 years with the same type of issue. After 19 years yeah the linkage is getting worn, another thing on my list to address at some point. ;-)
@@DrShock Ya linkage is $60 a piece now. Ouch. AC delco/ GM still makes it You can paint the new pieces too so they live longer w/o rusting. Ahh So the later trucks maybe got the revised board. Which still has issues haha
I’m just gonna replace the board I don’t feel like spending the same amount on a Soldering iron plus I think I might have a couple of those extra boards brand new laying around in the shack somewhere
Do you not have the wiper motor in the front firewall like in the video? I'm not sure if the G vans are the same board but it should be a similar design.
@@DrShock well, I think so, at first I assumed it was at teh wiper side, under the top grill(?) but my fuse/underneath looks teh same as this vid. You have like the only good explanation vid. Ill dig back into it later tonight or mpost liekly tomorrow, everythign else works good on this mechanic owned vehicle, so cal, he never worried about wipers, it sats for 4-6 month a yr.
Ok, I took a look and yeah the G van motor is mounted very differently from the C/K trucks. It's underneath the inside drivers side dash area. Once you get it out though, it should be the same type of logic board. There's a video out there for removing the wiper motor from a G20, check that out and then come back.
I know this wasn't billed as a permanent fix, but cold solder joints are not fixed long by simply heating up the solder. There are multiple issues that can cause problems with this. First, it is certain that they used silver solder to make the connection on that board, and silver solder is not as ductile as lead solder, and it work hardens much easier, which is part of why the boards are notorious for this problem. Touching it up with a little lead solder will increase its ability to take road vibrations. Second, while you may make the electrical connection more stable with heat, corrosion on solder joints, either lead or silver, is not removed with heat alone. You need to use flux to remove any oxidation. The solder you use to touch it up with should be flux core, which will at least help remove the oxidation, but even then, it would be a good idea to use flux on the joints as well. One other thing is that that coating will not stop cold solder joints from happening. It will protect from corrosion, but cold solder joints are caused just as much by vibration as they are by corrosion, and that small amount of coating will not prevent that from happening. If anyone wants to basically make one of these boards like new, about the only other thing I would suggest is to replace those electrolytic capacitors on the edge of the board. The big can looking things. Many of these vehicles are over 25 years old now days, and those caps are only rated for a 20-25 year shelf life. They may be fine right now, but it won't be long before they come to be a problem, and new caps are cheap. With these fixes, a repaired board will likely last much longer than the original board.
PoDuck thanks for the tip. I personally did add some 60/40 or 40/60 rosin lead solder. Used a ton of rosin flux also. Did not hit every pin but the ones that looked like they had visible damage. Works awesome. I’ll definitely pull it apart again if and when it acts up.
Well after a year of having the knowledge i finally decided to work on mine. When looking at the pins i found a few that looked like the solder has cracked. Soldered the connections and then bent the two spring contacts. Installed the unit and works perfectly now. Even fixed the washer fluid sprayer. Thank you very much. I did break the locking tab on the connector plug. Dang!
One of the most useful DIY videos I've watched in awhile. I have a 96 Impala SS that had the same problem. Using a multimeter to verify that the multifunctional steering column lever wasn't the culprit, I figured I'd replace the pulse control module circuit board. Guess what, outside of salvage yards and other B body owners' spare parts caches, there are no new replacement boards. Luckily I came across your video. A little skeptical, I tried the technique last night and installed the board this morning. It worked!!!! Even the delay function works perfectly now. Thanks man!!!
I'll have to try this on my 1993 Chevy S10 Blazer. I have had it for a long long time, since I was just about twenty, and I want to keep on enjoying my Blazer. thanks.
I wish I watched this before I replaced my $320 multi-switch inside! It was a pain to install and it’s staying now, but still didn’t fix the problem. Your free fix did fix it lol. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the video. I have a 1997 Silverado and today after a rain turned on the wipers with no results. Video should be a great help.
Absolutely outstanding! Thank you!
Yep found a hairline crack on the solder joint where the "brushes" solder to the board! I would suggest adding a little fresh rosin core solder to the solder joint to get it to flow and build up a little more strength to fight cracking. Thanks for the video!
@@skylerhagen9960 You can expect upwards of 10 years out of this repair as I have vehicles for customers still on the road with what I showed here. The solder used in automobile electronics in the 90s is vastly different than what's in use over the last decade or so. There's really no added value in mixing in the modern alloys, which are going to be quite inferior due to lacking lead which was present back when these boards were originally assembled.
Worked great, everything working now.
Awesome man, just did this and worked like a charm. Thanks.
Very informative video I’m going to try today on my truck thanks..
Tip- a higher wattage iron (say, about 40w) with a larger tip can transfer the heat more quickly which actually reduces the chance of thermal damage during the rework. I find it helpful to apply a tiny bit of very fine rosin core electronic solder at the first contact with a given solder joint. the fresh solder & flux does seem to help get the initial heat transfer to go a little quicker. Anyway, I really appreciate this video, I know what I''ll be fixing on my 95 K1500 in the next few days!
We're using 350 degrees C on a high end digital soldering station here ;-) You'll find the connectors metal frame makes for quite the heat sink on this reflow chore.
Nice! Going to try this on my 2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD. The wipers won't run off.
Gonna go do this right now on my 92 K3500
That's the new designed one too, black connector which is supposed to be the fixed part. gray was the factory one that used to crap out out of nowhere. I had one go bad of the newer design. but the solder joints looked great, something happened and the wipers rested higher than normal in the off position. Swapped the board. Been fine. I have a small hoard of those boards. now they are made like junk Made in India or China or something + the price is nuts, I found a bunch. I put a little 3m strip caulking around the cover and leave the bottom edge open. I think mine got wet and that's what shorted it Every other GM has a sealed cover. BTW watch your passenger wiper arm your linkage is worn or loose it has the bounce. I had the same thing happen in my 94, Put 2 new GM linkages in it, Wipers are SUPER quiet No chatter. Best 40 or so bucks I ever spent. Now I think they cost more.
This one is a factory installed 1999 motor, and I too was surprised it gave out after 19 years with the same type of issue. After 19 years yeah the linkage is getting worn, another thing on my list to address at some point. ;-)
@@DrShock Ya linkage is $60 a piece now. Ouch. AC delco/ GM still makes it You can paint the new pieces too so they live longer w/o rusting. Ahh So the later trucks maybe got the revised board. Which still has issues haha
Good post need to try this with my ‘94
Come to NC AND I will buy you a BBQ, SWEET TEA , and HUSHPUPPIES.
THANK YOU for the video..
Most helpful
I’m just gonna replace the board I don’t feel like spending the same amount on a Soldering iron plus I think I might have a couple of those extra boards brand new laying around in the shack somewhere
This is a free repair.
Hi - I have a 95 Chevy G30 (motorhome) I can not figure out where my relay/board is. any help ?
Do you not have the wiper motor in the front firewall like in the video? I'm not sure if the G vans are the same board but it should be a similar design.
@@DrShock well, I think so, at first I assumed it was at teh wiper side, under the top grill(?) but my fuse/underneath looks teh same as this vid. You have like the only good explanation vid. Ill dig back into it later tonight or mpost liekly tomorrow, everythign else works good on this mechanic owned vehicle, so cal, he never worried about wipers, it sats for 4-6 month a yr.
Ok, I took a look and yeah the G van motor is mounted very differently from the C/K trucks. It's underneath the inside drivers side dash area. Once you get it out though, it should be the same type of logic board. There's a video out there for removing the wiper motor from a G20, check that out and then come back.
I know this wasn't billed as a permanent fix, but cold solder joints are not fixed long by simply heating up the solder. There are multiple issues that can cause problems with this.
First, it is certain that they used silver solder to make the connection on that board, and silver solder is not as ductile as lead solder, and it work hardens much easier, which is part of why the boards are notorious for this problem. Touching it up with a little lead solder will increase its ability to take road vibrations. Second, while you may make the electrical connection more stable with heat, corrosion on solder joints, either lead or silver, is not removed with heat alone. You need to use flux to remove any oxidation. The solder you use to touch it up with should be flux core, which will at least help remove the oxidation, but even then, it would be a good idea to use flux on the joints as well.
One other thing is that that coating will not stop cold solder joints from happening. It will protect from corrosion, but cold solder joints are caused just as much by vibration as they are by corrosion, and that small amount of coating will not prevent that from happening.
If anyone wants to basically make one of these boards like new, about the only other thing I would suggest is to replace those electrolytic capacitors on the edge of the board. The big can looking things. Many of these vehicles are over 25 years old now days, and those caps are only rated for a 20-25 year shelf life. They may be fine right now, but it won't be long before they come to be a problem, and new caps are cheap.
With these fixes, a repaired board will likely last much longer than the original board.
PoDuck thanks for the tip. I personally did add some 60/40 or 40/60 rosin lead solder. Used a ton of rosin flux also. Did not hit every pin but the ones that looked like they had visible damage. Works awesome. I’ll definitely pull it apart again if and when it acts up.
is it possible to get printed circuit board wiper motor for Audi A3 2007?
Why no flux?
The solder I added is flux cored. On the others it just needed to be reflowed, no flux required.