I learned a lot but will probably need to do this again but maybe 3 or more to get an average. Also, feel each Anvil Foundry seems to heat up a little faster compared to the other.
Thank you, Mike, for sharing your experience in the boil-off comparison. I also passed on your suggestion and feedback to our president. We are very appreciative of your support to the industry-Jen Young, Marketing Manager.
Thank you and I'll be doing a few more to get a nice average based on feedback I received from this video. I did two brews shortly after this video was recorded (upcoming brew videos) and one was way off for my boil off while the 2nd was dead on. That was one of my main reasons for stating YMMV and that everyone should test their own boil off rates.
Can someone explain to me why you can't ferment directly in the foundry? Their website claims it's good up to 40psi and even pressure distillation would be max 15psi. As long as you were able to securely fasten the lid and hook up a spunding valve or airlock, it seems to me that it would work.
You can but it might not be the best vessel for doing so. A lot of people do kettle sours directly in the Anvil Foundry which is a type of fermentation. I did see someone on one of the FB groups recently showing off that he was fermenting in his Anvil Foundry. Personally it is just a lot less work to clean the Anvil right after a brew while your wort is in anything else from a cheap bucket to a fancy conical fermenter.
That is a great question that sadly I don't have a good answer for. I will be doing a handful of future boil off tests and will try to record the tap water. I'll try to get more info documented during the next test where I'll be trying get an average. I'd guess it was over 8 gallons, but could have been a little more.
It really isn't, as from everything I read (companies selling them and brewers like us in forums), you want to avoid running your boil at 100% power under any form of pressure. This experiment, as I mentioned in the video, was for a real-world comparison, and, from a very recent personal experience on my very next brew, 100% is a bit dangerous. I forgot to lower the power, and it started to boil over. Partially due to the power being at 100%, and the other part was I couldn't cool the hot steam fast enough. I adjusted it to 75%, increased the water pressure to increase the cool water mist for the steam condenser, and got everything under control. I still made a bit of a mess, but it could have been a lot worse. (White Labs in Asheville, NC, actually boils their beers under some insane pressure with their steam condenser, and supposedly, they can get their boils up to around 230F. They also have some very expensive and custom equipment, plus that lovely cold mountain tap water.)
@@BitterRealityBrewing Yes, I understand that you don't want to boil at 100% under pressure. My point was is your unit without the steam condenser it was boiling at 100% power. Is this typical for you? Do you leave your unit at 100% power while boiling uncovered? I imagine that if you did at test with both units are 75% power the results would be closer. Which would be a true 1 to 1 comparison. Right?
@@Justin.J.Daniels I fully understand, and yes, I boil uncovered at 100%. (I used to have a GrainFather, which used 120v, and it was hard to get to a rolling boil at 120v. So I was very used to just going straight to 100%.) I feel most people probably set their uncovered brew systems at 100% when boiling. Even with that said, I could be wrong as I know that if you live somewhere well above sea level, you are able to get a boil at a slightly lower temp, and I can only assume with a bit less power too. Sadly, I only am able to go on what I've seen and heard (when I am paying attention) and of course, a fair percentage of that is from brewers in Florida, where large hills are extremely unusual. 🏖😎 I do have more tests planned and was looking to do an overall "Boil off" average, but I could also do a few other tests. I think I could get away with 100% as long as I didn't have dissolved solids like sugars/carbs to trigger a boilover. And even if I did get a boilover with only water, it wouldn't be nearly as bad as it is with sticky wort.
Going with that saying, "You do, you!" That is why I measured it to a rate of per minute. If you do your own boil-off test or use the initial one I did, you can at least dial in your final volume a bit easier. I did two brews right after this test, and the 1st one was off more than I expected, while the 2nd one was almost dead on to what I did in this test. I plan on doing a few more boil-off tests with this and some other equipment to help get an average.
I think in our world, 3 significant figures are plenty for all calculations and communication. It might make results reporting a bit easier for the video. So... 1.87 oz per min, or 2.73 oz per minute. Gallons per hour might be useful too. Four sig figs 1.866 x 60 = 111.96 111.96 / 128 = .8747 GPH Three sig figs 1.87 x 60 = 112 112 / 128 = .875 GPH Two sig figs: 1.9 x 60 = 114 114 / 128 = .89 GPH To see how silly it is to use 4 sig figs, try measuring .8746 gallons vs .875 in the foundry. Great test, though!
Thanks for sharing. Nice little experiment. Cheers!
I learned a lot but will probably need to do this again but maybe 3 or more to get an average. Also, feel each Anvil Foundry seems to heat up a little faster compared to the other.
Looks like it would be great for people doing Extract brews. Thanks for the video.
It would work great to reduce the amount of steam in anyone's house, but it won't completely eliminate the odor.
Thank you, Mike, for sharing your experience in the boil-off comparison. I also passed on your suggestion and feedback to our president. We are very appreciative of your support to the industry-Jen Young, Marketing Manager.
Thank you and I'll be doing a few more to get a nice average based on feedback I received from this video. I did two brews shortly after this video was recorded (upcoming brew videos) and one was way off for my boil off while the 2nd was dead on. That was one of my main reasons for stating YMMV and that everyone should test their own boil off rates.
great experiment. thanks for the video 👍 🍻
I'll probably do a few more and get averages as I know this wasn't the best test but hopefully it helps with awareness.
Ive been doing something similar with my kettle setup trying to figure out efficiency and boil off.
Based on feedback, I'll probably be doing this test again and try to get an average from maybe 3 boil offs, back to back.
Can someone explain to me why you can't ferment directly in the foundry? Their website claims it's good up to 40psi and even pressure distillation would be max 15psi. As long as you were able to securely fasten the lid and hook up a spunding valve or airlock, it seems to me that it would work.
You can but it might not be the best vessel for doing so. A lot of people do kettle sours directly in the Anvil Foundry which is a type of fermentation. I did see someone on one of the FB groups recently showing off that he was fermenting in his Anvil Foundry. Personally it is just a lot less work to clean the Anvil right after a brew while your wort is in anything else from a cheap bucket to a fancy conical fermenter.
How much tap water did you use in the condensing line?
That is a great question that sadly I don't have a good answer for. I will be doing a handful of future boil off tests and will try to record the tap water. I'll try to get more info documented during the next test where I'll be trying get an average. I'd guess it was over 8 gallons, but could have been a little more.
Is it a flawed test as you didn't boil at the same power?
It really isn't, as from everything I read (companies selling them and brewers like us in forums), you want to avoid running your boil at 100% power under any form of pressure. This experiment, as I mentioned in the video, was for a real-world comparison, and, from a very recent personal experience on my very next brew, 100% is a bit dangerous. I forgot to lower the power, and it started to boil over. Partially due to the power being at 100%, and the other part was I couldn't cool the hot steam fast enough. I adjusted it to 75%, increased the water pressure to increase the cool water mist for the steam condenser, and got everything under control. I still made a bit of a mess, but it could have been a lot worse. (White Labs in Asheville, NC, actually boils their beers under some insane pressure with their steam condenser, and supposedly, they can get their boils up to around 230F. They also have some very expensive and custom equipment, plus that lovely cold mountain tap water.)
@@BitterRealityBrewing Yes, I understand that you don't want to boil at 100% under pressure. My point was is your unit without the steam condenser it was boiling at 100% power. Is this typical for you? Do you leave your unit at 100% power while boiling uncovered? I imagine that if you did at test with both units are 75% power the results would be closer. Which would be a true 1 to 1 comparison. Right?
@@Justin.J.Daniels I fully understand, and yes, I boil uncovered at 100%. (I used to have a GrainFather, which used 120v, and it was hard to get to a rolling boil at 120v. So I was very used to just going straight to 100%.) I feel most people probably set their uncovered brew systems at 100% when boiling. Even with that said, I could be wrong as I know that if you live somewhere well above sea level, you are able to get a boil at a slightly lower temp, and I can only assume with a bit less power too. Sadly, I only am able to go on what I've seen and heard (when I am paying attention) and of course, a fair percentage of that is from brewers in Florida, where large hills are extremely unusual. 🏖😎
I do have more tests planned and was looking to do an overall "Boil off" average, but I could also do a few other tests. I think I could get away with 100% as long as I didn't have dissolved solids like sugars/carbs to trigger a boilover. And even if I did get a boilover with only water, it wouldn't be nearly as bad as it is with sticky wort.
Does it matter if you boil for 60 minutes or say 75 minutes to get to your final quantity goal?
Going with that saying, "You do, you!" That is why I measured it to a rate of per minute. If you do your own boil-off test or use the initial one I did, you can at least dial in your final volume a bit easier. I did two brews right after this test, and the 1st one was off more than I expected, while the 2nd one was almost dead on to what I did in this test. I plan on doing a few more boil-off tests with this and some other equipment to help get an average.
I think in our world, 3 significant figures are plenty for all calculations and communication. It might make results reporting a bit easier for the video.
So... 1.87 oz per min, or 2.73 oz per minute. Gallons per hour might be useful too.
Four sig figs
1.866 x 60 = 111.96
111.96 / 128 = .8747 GPH
Three sig figs
1.87 x 60 = 112
112 / 128 = .875 GPH
Two sig figs:
1.9 x 60 = 114
114 / 128 = .89 GPH
To see how silly it is to use 4 sig figs, try measuring .8746 gallons vs .875 in the foundry.
Great test, though!
You sound like you might like math even more than I do. I am really thinking I need to do this test again but 3 or more times to get an average.