If you have one of the original Ithaca deerslayers with smoothbore, you MUST use these slugs. I've found the Lyman slugs unmodified shoot exceptionally well from my 1961 Deerslayer
sawmaster 609 man, that’s good to hear! I haven’t gave up on the slugs yet. Have you slugged your barrel? I’d be curious to know the inner diameter of your barrel.
@@buckandslugreloaders9005 I have not done any modifications to the gun or the slug whatsoever. The barrel has an inner diameter of 0.704 inches. It was made to shoot foster slugs which were undersized at the time (back in the 60s). Nowadays, only Lyman makes undersized foster slugs, but they shoot great out of the original deerslayer! The solution is NOT to modify the slugs. The solution is get an Ithaca Deerslayer made before the 1980s (because in the 80s, as slugs got bigger, they made the barrel bigger), and shoot the Lyman slugs out of that! These slugs were MADE for that gun!
@@buckandslugreloaders9005 need some help my friend, i bought some 20ga Rio hulls and the obturator gas seals from BP and the seals dont fit snug i can see the powder down the side plus the powder will come up and around it...i get a good seal with 12ga set up ...any direction would help thanks 👍ive contacted em but it is a rough time for all vendors and manufacturing right now
MCK hey brother, those gas seals will still obturate in the bore, so don’t worry about that. Has far as powder migration, add a 20 ga overshot card over the powder, then the gas seal. If fit becomes an issue, cut a square piece of paper and place over the powder. That will fix it!
They ARE undersized - they are supposed to be ORIGINALLY the Lyman design was sold as a kit; 1. The slug mold 2. The expander plug/rifling die A cast slug would be inserted into the swaging die using a base plug - which was larger than the slug cavity. This resulted in the base plug forcing the outer area slug body into the die walls and making it more like a Brenneke slug in appearance I've got two sets of the early kits - an almost unused 16-ga one & a more used/abused 12-ga one.
*MP molds offer two 525 Lyman PELLET style molds in .68" for loading in the shot cup style wad or .73" 'full bore diameter' for loading OVER THE FIBER AND CORKS. IF YOU CAN GET CUSTOMS TO ALLOW YOU TO IMPORT IT...these might be awesome. US Customs seem to hate imports, this year. NOE "IN the USA" are offering the .68 cal version in 500 grain... for IN THE SHOT CUP... SINCE THOSE NOE MOLDS ARE USA MADE.... maybe we are allowed to have them.*
I'm not sure if the talcum powder would aid the slug going down the barrel at the minimum I would say the talcum is helping to move the slug smoothly from the shell. one possibility is to powder coat the slug or modify the mold to accommodate some ribs.... good video thanks for sharing some knowledge.
JoeA418 I thought about powder coating, but I’d have to powder coat the same slug about 10 times to add the 30 thou I need. I still may explore that option.
This seems a bit dangerous. How does the rubber band stay on the slug going down the barrel with such friction. I would be scared of it comming off or melting and creating a bors obstruction
Hi Jon. Thanks for watching. The heat shrink has adhesive on the inner portion that activates as heat is applied. It ain’t going anywhere. No difference than paper patching bullets.
Take drive key out tiy mold shut weat sandpaper spin mold on finger. I was working on turkey loud 20 Ga. Hall yes it fits in 12 Ga. Hall crimp up & down cont spread at 50 yards.
What gun sensei? If you’re going into production on these heat shrink think about acquiring a garage sale house iron, slip the tube over the slug, lay it on the iron and flick it off with the next one. Me I think I’m getting similar results by patching slugs with tyvek. Keep sciencing!
50 yards? Hmm I load the Lees drive key 7/8 slugs so not sure my info would help but I don't think will hurt. Try a different hull wad and powder. With my loads and my shotgun I get a 2 inch or so @25 yards about 3 or so @50 and 2 litter soda pop bottle @92 yards. Shotgun SAS 12 auto loader box mag fed 2 3/4 chamber chrome lined 20 3/4 barrel 0.70 bore Load Rem gun club hulls Claybuster CB4100-12B Rem STS primers 23.4gr of Green Dot. Add a inch to those groups if 23gr of Red Dot is used. I watch a lot of slug reloading videos and do not under why such large groups with some loaders . My theory is people are loading their slugs to hot for their shotgun/barrel. Or my shotgun just shoot really good. Also I shoot standing free hand my sights are "custom" made pep. Haha everything on my gun is custom made because they don't make anything for it LOL
Have you ever thought of paper patching it like you used to do with some of the old big bore cartridges
Awsum stuff mate experiments often work out
If you have one of the original Ithaca deerslayers with smoothbore, you MUST use these slugs. I've found the Lyman slugs unmodified shoot exceptionally well from my 1961 Deerslayer
What wads do you use?
Fractured Hearts none. That’s the problem with these. Too small to be truly ‘full bore’, but too big for wads.
sawmaster 609 man, that’s good to hear! I haven’t gave up on the slugs yet. Have you slugged your barrel? I’d be curious to know the inner diameter of your barrel.
Check out Fortunecookie 45LC video(s) on wads and slugs. I bet you can use a thin peddled wad like the Clay Buster CB4100-12B Lighting.
@@buckandslugreloaders9005 I have not done any modifications to the gun or the slug whatsoever. The barrel has an inner diameter of 0.704 inches. It was made to shoot foster slugs which were undersized at the time (back in the 60s). Nowadays, only Lyman makes undersized foster slugs, but they shoot great out of the original deerslayer! The solution is NOT to modify the slugs. The solution is get an Ithaca Deerslayer made before the 1980s (because in the 80s, as slugs got bigger, they made the barrel bigger), and shoot the Lyman slugs out of that! These slugs were MADE for that gun!
Awesome idea, gonna give this a try
instead of talcum powder...i'd use BPs mica wad slick. That stuff is slicker than snot and you get a lot of it that should last for years.
tarzansbigknife that’s what I’m using. My mistake!
I dont understand why they dont make these slug full bore diameter. Im looking for a foster slug mold that is. May have to get a custom mold.
73 caliber semi wad cutter an inch and 3/4 long
Bro great idea..
Thanks for sharing! Very good idea.
AA 5744 you bet! That’s why we do what we do: to share knowledge.
nice work ups 👍, im just gittin started in the hunt for accuracy with cast slugs
MCK good luck, brother! It’s an awesome endeavor! Got any questions, please ask!
@@buckandslugreloaders9005 need some help my friend, i bought some 20ga Rio hulls and the obturator gas seals from BP and the seals dont fit snug i can see the powder down the side plus the powder will come up and around it...i get a good seal with 12ga set up ...any direction would help thanks 👍ive contacted em but it is a rough time for all vendors and manufacturing right now
MCK hey brother, those gas seals will still obturate in the bore, so don’t worry about that. Has far as powder migration, add a 20 ga overshot card over the powder, then the gas seal. If fit becomes an issue, cut a square piece of paper and place over the powder. That will fix it!
@@buckandslugreloaders9005 good ideas, i was just used to the 12ga assumed it shoud be the same but, sounds like an easy fix, 👍thanks, take care
Very smart idea!
I solved ALL my foster slug problems by going to the Lyman .705" 475gr slug. Unsurpassed accuracy even at 100 yds.
They ARE undersized - they are supposed to be
ORIGINALLY the Lyman design was sold as a kit;
1. The slug mold
2. The expander plug/rifling die
A cast slug would be inserted into the swaging die using a base plug - which was larger than the slug cavity.
This resulted in the base plug forcing the outer area slug body into the die walls and making it more like a Brenneke slug in appearance
I've got two sets of the early kits - an almost unused 16-ga one & a more used/abused 12-ga one.
*MP molds offer two 525 Lyman PELLET style molds in .68" for loading in the shot cup style wad or .73" 'full bore diameter' for loading OVER THE FIBER AND CORKS. IF YOU CAN GET CUSTOMS TO ALLOW YOU TO IMPORT IT...these might be awesome. US Customs seem to hate imports, this year. NOE "IN the USA" are offering the .68 cal version in 500 grain... for IN THE SHOT CUP... SINCE THOSE NOE MOLDS ARE USA MADE.... maybe we are allowed to have them.*
I'm not sure if the talcum powder would aid the slug going down the barrel at the minimum I would say the talcum is helping to move the slug smoothly from the shell. one possibility is to powder coat the slug or modify the mold to accommodate some ribs.... good video thanks for sharing some knowledge.
JoeA418 I thought about powder coating, but I’d have to powder coat the same slug about 10 times to add the 30 thou I need. I still may explore that option.
This seems a bit dangerous. How does the rubber band stay on the slug going down the barrel with such friction. I would be scared of it comming off or melting and creating a bors obstruction
Hi Jon. Thanks for watching. The heat shrink has adhesive on the inner portion that activates as heat is applied. It ain’t going anywhere. No difference than paper patching bullets.
Take drive key out tiy mold shut weat sandpaper spin mold on finger. I was working on turkey loud 20 Ga. Hall yes it fits in 12 Ga. Hall crimp up & down cont spread at 50 yards.
Were those slugs 7/8oz or 1oz?
What gun sensei? If you’re going into production on these heat shrink think about acquiring a garage sale house iron, slip the tube over the slug, lay it on the iron and flick it off with the next one. Me I think I’m getting similar results by patching slugs with tyvek.
Keep sciencing!
Drew Diaz it’s all about tinkering. Lol! Gun I used was a 590A1 with a 4x scope.
Buck and Slug Reloaders 4x!,, I’m old enough to be your daddy & I use a red dot on my 590...
instead of talcum powder, try graphite.
The Russian Paradox slug is such a better slug. It's a one hole slug
50 yards? Hmm I load the Lees drive key 7/8 slugs so not sure my info would help but I don't think will hurt. Try a different hull wad and powder. With my loads and my shotgun I get a 2 inch or so @25 yards about 3 or so @50 and 2 litter soda pop bottle @92 yards. Shotgun SAS 12 auto loader box mag fed 2 3/4 chamber chrome lined 20 3/4 barrel 0.70 bore Load Rem gun club hulls Claybuster CB4100-12B Rem STS primers 23.4gr of Green Dot. Add a inch to those groups if 23gr of Red Dot is used. I watch a lot of slug reloading videos and do not under why such large groups with some loaders . My theory is people are loading their slugs to hot for their shotgun/barrel. Or my shotgun just shoot really good. Also I shoot standing free hand my sights are "custom" made pep. Haha everything on my gun is custom made because they don't make anything for it LOL