I was searching on Amazon for a brass coated steel brush, for a drill, last night. It is interesting how the brain works. First 6 seconds of the video and I looked at your beard, and said "That's what I was looking for! My apologies. But I thought it was worth sharing. LMAO!!
What about facing the sample with a milling machine? This way you don't have to deal with the possible risks of the acid and the fumes from it. I've played around with this. You get different surface finishes. The nugget and the base metal. What are your thoughts?
I love the way you say a good weld on the outside doesn't always mean a good weld on the inside..... I just flipped this around and my inside welds are rocking!! How you get that micro hair cut step, hit it with the 60, then the 80 and skip straight to the buff or what aha. Great short and sweat video!!!
Yes you can, you just need different etchants. Marbles Reagent (contains copper sulphate and hydrogen chloride) is a common one used to assess stainless welds
Deal with this at work all the time. Customer procedure calls for Pictric Acid, which is explosive!. Then again, we're making safety-critical automotive body parts, so weld quality is paramount.
Nital is alcohol mixed with nitric acid, or in other words a liquid fuel mixed with a powerful liquid oxidizer. I'd be more worried about that than picric acid personally.
Sodium Hydroxide solution ( Caustic soda or Lye), commonly sold as drain cleaner. You only need a very weak solution, normally less than 5% by volume, pure or low alloy require weaker solution, then a little more concentrated for higher alloys. This is a Base or Alkaline with high PH, it is more dangerous on skin contact so be careful, it does not sting like acids, but is more insidious in that your skin starts to feel softer!!!!. You have been warned☠☠☠☠☠☠. Wash off with water, then blow dry, distilled if you want to avoid water stains, but for workshop coupons/not requiring sample imaging. Proprietary etchants for aluminium alloys are Kellers, and Krolls, these are only really needed when at microscopic magnification ≥ X100.
Join us on October 26 at *Good of the Land Fest!* Get your tickets here: www.thegoodoftheland.com/fest
Good stuff!
Somehow you guys always hit the points that every other channel neglects. Youre a good bunch of teachers
I was searching on Amazon for a brass coated steel brush, for a drill, last night.
It is interesting how the brain works. First 6 seconds of the video and I looked at your beard, and said "That's what I was looking for!
My apologies. But I thought it was worth sharing. LMAO!!
@Shane Jericho I don't believe you two.
Definitely going to do this on my welds in class. Just to see if I'm getting it or not.
What about facing the sample with a milling machine? This way you don't have to deal with the possible risks of the acid and the fumes from it. I've played around with this. You get different surface finishes. The nugget and the base metal. What are your thoughts?
I love the way you say a good weld on the outside doesn't always mean a good weld on the inside..... I just flipped this around and my inside welds are rocking!! How you get that micro hair cut step, hit it with the 60, then the 80 and skip straight to the buff or what aha. Great short and sweat video!!!
Bob is funny and you are more thorough. I like both you guys. Need ManCub outtakes please. Hilarious 😂
Thank you for additional information Sir❤️
Another beautiful and useful example. Thank you.
First. Looks like a fun event.
Bob Moffatt how u doing Bob and when u coming back
Is this the real OG??
Hi Bob! We miss you!
Are you done working on that new golf swing yet? Feels like you have been on a 6 month vacation...
Hope to see you back in the swing of things soon.
There he is, BM giving a comment, hope youare doing just fine ! Thank you JB, it developed!
6g tig root on pipe with the mancub
should the metal be heated up before applying the chemical?
Not for any etchant I know of on steel. "nital", iodine etchant, this etchant - they work at room temperature.
Estamos na área - Brasil/Sp
How's Bob 🤔 hope all is well with him 👍🏾 keep up the good work...
Thanks for the information man!
i wonder if muriatic acid will work
Sweet...!
Can you etch stainless joints?
Yes you can, you just need different etchants. Marbles Reagent (contains copper sulphate and hydrogen chloride) is a common one used to assess stainless welds
I teach english using your videos. Thank's much. Timing 4.45 "coupon" is it right? How do you spell it ?
Deal with this at work all the time. Customer procedure calls for Pictric Acid, which is explosive!. Then again, we're making safety-critical automotive body parts, so weld quality is paramount.
Nital is alcohol mixed with nitric acid, or in other words a liquid fuel mixed with a powerful liquid oxidizer. I'd be more worried about that than picric acid personally.
we use nitric 5%
You going to see justin at the good of the land fest
Can you etch an Aluminum weld?
You can, you just need a different chemical.
And that chemical is? Or do you think Google would know?
@@hjvisagie Jody says: easy off oven cleaner ... and it works.
@@hjvisagie th-cam.com/video/6hi7NsAh2AA/w-d-xo.html
Sodium Hydroxide solution ( Caustic soda or Lye), commonly sold as drain cleaner. You only need a very weak solution, normally less than 5% by volume, pure or low alloy require weaker solution, then a little more concentrated for higher alloys. This is a Base or Alkaline with high PH, it is more dangerous on skin contact so be careful, it does not sting like acids, but is more insidious in that your skin starts to feel softer!!!!. You have been warned☠☠☠☠☠☠.
Wash off with water, then blow dry, distilled if you want to avoid water stains, but for workshop coupons/not requiring sample imaging.
Proprietary etchants for aluminium alloys are Kellers, and Krolls, these are only really needed when at microscopic magnification ≥ X100.
U.S. MARINE if you see chucke2009 down there tell him to make some videos