ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.พ. 2021
- If you would like to support this channel and continue to see future content like this, please consider making a small donation: distphoto.be/support_the_channel
Grab a free copy of my darkroom formula ebook when you signup for my newsletter here: www.distphoto.com/darkroomfor...
A look at sepia toning fiber based darkroom prints. In this approach we are delicately toning the highlights as inspired by Michael Kenna’s amazing work and style. This is a very subtle shift of the highlights in a black and white print that I find works well for certain images. Hope you enjoy!
=============================
Formulas used:
=============================
Variable Sepia Toner:
Solution A : Bleach
100g Potassium Ferricyanide
100g Potassium Bromide
Water to make 1 liter
Solution B : Toner
100g Thiocarbamide
Water to make 1 liter
Solution A : Bleach
100g Sodium Hydroxide
Water to make 1 liter
Variable Dilution Guide
Sol. B Sol. C Water Color
1 5 50 yellow-sepia
2 4 50 sepia
3 3 50 mid brown
4 2 50 cold rust browns
5 1 50 purple brown
Sulphide Sepia Toner:
Solution A : Bleach
100g Potassium Ferricyanide
100g Potassium Bromide
Water to make 1 liter
Solution B : Toner
10g Sodium Sulphide
Water to make 1 liter
** For light controllable bleaching start with 6-12 ml Sol. A per litre of water **
** Optional - add 3 tsp. Sodium chloride or kosher salt for warmer highlights **
=============================
Relevant Links:
=============================
Michael Kenna Interview - www.michaelkenna.net/ivwork.php
Photographers Formulary - stores.photoformulary.com
Digital Scale - amzn.to/3qsV9s0
Glass Amber Chemical Bottles - amzn.to/2Zp7mCx
=============================
Go to film photography setup //
=============================
Hasselblad 500 CM - ebay.us/I76k2J
120mm CF f-4 Makro - ebay.us/gX4UVm
80mm CF 2.8 - ebay.us/BRBAuT
50mm CFE f-4 - ebay.us/rcJhiz
Go to film - Ilford HP5 - amzn.to/3oPiyTU
=============================
Go to digital camera setup //
=============================
Canon R5 - amzn.to/35FUX0r
Canon 35mm f1.4 L ii - amzn.to/3ioIBPl
Canon 50mm f1.2 RF - amzn.to/2N47Hax
Canon 85mm f1.2 - amzn.to/38PaH34
=============================
Affiliate Links:
=============================
Some of the links in my video descriptions are affiliate links, which means at no extra cost to you, I will make a small commission if you click them and make a qualifying purchase. If you have a different purchase in mind, please consider using these links as it helps create more free content for this channel!
=============================
Music:
=============================
All the songs in my videos are from Epidemic Sound! - Get your music here - www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
=============================
Follow Me:
=============================
Instagram: / distphoto and / distphotofilm
Lightroom Presets: www.distinctionphoto.com/dp/p...
Blog: www.distinctionphoto.com/dp/c...
Thank you so much for watching!
=============================
#distphotofilm #darkroom - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I've always liked how selenium toning treats the blacks in my prints. However after watching another one of your fantastic videos I want to give it a try!!! I'm also a fan of Micheal Kenna's work. In the past, I used to feel that graded papers were the way to go but I'm much more in line with his thinking on VC papers now. I've found that I need to watch you videos at least twice because there's so much valuable information packed in each one. I am very grateful for what your putting on here, thank you!
Thank you! I use selenium too. I mostly use a high dilution like 1:40 for 2 min on MG Classic But the possibilities are endless. I often selenium tone first and the sepia but depends on the print. Have fun!
So valuable. Thank you for sharing!
Your welcome, glad you liked it!
Thanks for the video! Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Nice video & prints, thanks for sharing !
Your welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. Very useful information here.
You’re welcome!
Ive been thinking more and more about sepia toning my prints, this may have convinced me to push. The pre sulphide bath and sulphide sepia toner is really beautiful!
It is a fun process. Try to get your hands on Tim Rudman's toning book if you can. Great info in there!
Great video! I went nuts trying to get the subtle look until I started diluting the bleach and shortening the time in the bleach. If your video had been around it would have saved me a ton of time. Coincidently my bleach dilution and bleach time are the same as yours. Beautiful looking print!
It can still be infuriating at times... I just went through a whole batch of prints and did not realize I needed to mix new toner chemicals... (thiorea)
I often like the Sulfide but have so much paper and film in my darkroom did not want to move it and certainly not fog it . Any way long story short had to reprint and test and sure enough the toner was not active anymore for whatever reason. (so if the Hydroxide or Thiorea ever looks cloudy or separated might want to start fresh - mine had sat for quite a while)
I find to that light bleach → rinse → tone → and then repeat gives me the colors I am after. ( happens quicjk the second pass ).
Another good one! I really like your channel. Subject matter, the way you present it and the results ... nice, very nice! Regarding toning, does it work with skin tones as well? Or are the skin tones too much of a gray for the toner to kick in?
For skin tones I prefer either bleaching back more for more traditional sepia toning or just keeping it neutral. The method here I tend not to use for portraits as it creates a split tone, but it could be really cool with the right image! For most of my portraits I just use really light selenium on Foma or Ilford Warmtone Paper developed in warmtone developer. I also like the direct sulphide toners on those papers for portraits. Thank you!
Thank you for sharing awsome contents! I really love your channel! I watched your video and thought that want to try to Sepia Toning. So, I have some question of toning process. Some toning chemical pack's manual says better that use hardener after toning. I don't know if it's necessary. And why to use hardener. Do you use hardener? and Dose it make any trouble that don't use hardener? It would be great if you could tell me.
I've learned so much from you. thank you!
Your welcome! Some sepia toners are sulfphide based. I think these are usually the ones that recommend hardeners.
Basically the sulphide causes the emulsion to be more susceptible to scratching. It causes a softening effect on the emulsion. I believe it is less or not a problem with theorem toners but not certain. I use sulphide toners a lot and do not use a hardener. You can I just don’t and am extra careful with the emulsion.
If you have problems with a paper / emulsion getting damaged after tinning then I would say add it.
That is my approach. Hope that helps
I should also point out this softening of the emulsion is only while the print is still wet, once dry it is the same as any other print.
Great stuff I like the pre sulphide print the most . Most useful vid I've watched this week ! Winters here so it's time for me to fire up the darkroom again
Been making a few cheesy vids for TH-cam if you fancy a look
Thanks, Appreciate that. Just subscribed to your channel.... Fuji Across, Hasselblad 500 cm, and a dog.... Sold!
Excellent video. I routinely selenium tone my prints for permanence and to enhance the blacks, but I’ll have to try some sepia. The effects are subtle but worth it! Do you notice similar effects with warmtone papers?
Thank you! Yes you can do both. You can do them in either order as well for slightly different results. I tend to selenium first but if you go to far with the selenium it will not be able to bleach those highlights ( complete selenium toning will protect the highlights from the bleach) so I keep it short (Ilford MG Classic 1:40 for 2 min) then wash and sepia tone like in the video) gives a subtle shift in the blacks and greys and a subtle shift to sepia in the highlights.
I prefer bleach and tone of neutral papers over the warmtone however you can definitely do this with warmtone papers. Each paper will behave slightly different but will work for sure! Right now I personally prefer either light selenium or viradon / Brown toner for warmtone papers.
Dear Matthew, thanks a lot for sharing: beautiful! I guess that was done with MG Classic... I saw you also like Fomatone , as I do. I liked toning with sulphide in the past, but I have not done it with Fomatone yet: I am waiting for my P. Brom., P. Ferri., and S. Sulph. because I liked the way you mixed and used them (proportions, etc.), and as they're coming by sea (I live in South America) it will take some weeks -or more- before I can start tests. Apart from knowing Fomatone will react in a much stronger and warmer way, I was wondering if you have ever tested the same sulphide mix with Fomatone... Thank you!!!
I think I have in the past but just love the tones from Fomatone so much that I do not recall doing it recently.
I do know it will work and it will most likely be more colorful.
The big difference will be the paper base color and the overall warmer tones in the blacks… which will look lovely for sure.
The Ilford MG gives more of a steely grey in the shadows and the sulphide just slightly warm look… very subtle.
You will have to have fun and experiment! Take lots of notes!
Also let me know how it goes! Cheers
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC Thank you for your answer! Even if Fomatone, at least the way I like to use it, has no neutral tones in the blacks or mids to think about the same type of very subtle split sepia highlights toning, I'll test it and see what it can offer with a couple different developers, seeking the same: just a hint of extra warmth in the highlights. Have a nice day!
A pinkish hue... 😄 reminds me of Seinfeld episode where George has standards for his blind date's cheek. ☺
Yes!!!
“Was there a pinkish hue?”
“A pinkish hue!?”
😂
I'm watching your video for about the 20 th time
So tonight I had a go at bleaching and toning , I used John finch pictorial planets mix
My prints were bleaching out so fast I ended up bleaching for 5 seconds
Even then everything went a yuk deep brown purple
So I'm watching yours again and realised where it must have gone wrong was I placed dry prints into the bleach !! Doh !
Only some chemicals and B grade prints wasted and 2 hours of my life !!
Yeah I would soak the dry prints for 5 min and then cut the bleach way more to get manageable times. If you are fully bleaching that quick you will still need to dilute the bleach further. I would cut it by 1/10th and try 30 sec to a min in the bleach. Rinse & tone. You can give it a short wash and the bleach further and tone and keep repeating. The more times you repeat the faster it will start to bleach. Sometimes even at high dilutions I will just let the bleach cover the print sit for a sec and then rinse. Just depends on how far you want the bleach to go. Good luck! And take notes!!!
Do you re-use your bleach? I find after I have used it, and then re-use it again, it takes a little while longer to bleach it. It seems that the bleach concentration drops during usage. I used the Formulary formula for making up the thiourea: B: 10 g NaOH to 100 g H2O, 5 g thioruea to 100 ml H2O. And for the bleach they use sodium carbonate instead of sodium hydroxide. Their ratio of potassium ferricyanide to potassium bromide is 50 g ferri to 10 sodium carbonate, diluted to 1 L, and 20 g sodium carbonate. I guess there are several formulas to use. I agree that the ferri solution should be dilute and you need to experiment. Great video.
I always use the bleach as one shot ( for however many prints I am toning at the time - usually 5 -20 depending). You will have to make adjustments if doing so. That is why I prefer mixing my chemicals for this from scratch. they are pretty cheap and easy to mix up! I have gone to far with the dilution and just stared at the print wondering if it will ever bleach :) So it is good to keep notes on what you have done and how it will work... Thanks!
If you bleach ilford cooltone down about 30% and hit it with thiourea toner it will turn a beautiful plum color
Been meaning to give the cooltone a try. Have a bunch of paper to use up before I can order more but it looks nice for the right images. Thanks for the tip!
Sally Mann has in the past used tea to tone.
I have messed around a little with tea… and coffee… interesting results for sure!
Hello hope you’re doing ok, Question why Doesn’t see the brownish tone into the paper, or it is because the video? I remember when my dad do the sepia bleach the paper turn yellowish and then after turn into the sepia tone brown ?
This is just toning the very upper highlights. It is a very subtle shift. Full sepia at the bleach stage turns the print a yellow- rust faint image and redevelops back to full brown sepia. This is a much more subtle way of doing it by just warming the highlights a tiny bit.
What concentration of solution of toning did you use? Was it stock or also diluted as bleaching? Great content 👍
For the variable (Thiorea) it is dilluted depending on the tone you want ex. 5a +5b + 50 water (for mid brown). For s. sulphide I mix 10g into 1 liter and use directly.
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC 🙏🏾 thanks. So it is as mentioned on the video. I had the doubt if it was used as stock solution also. Now is answered, thank you very much!
@@eduardosepulveda437 you are welcome 👍
Hello, Is it possible to apply on RC paper?
Yes, for sure! Different papers will give different sepia tones but most should work great!
I believe Kenna uses selenium and sepia. I may be wrong.
In the interview he states. Never selenium. But that is all I am going on 👍
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC yes you did. My bad
@@nickfanzo No worries. I have only seen one of his prints in person and the blacks did look really gray/steely to me. With subtle highlight toning. I play with sepia/selenium myself and love it but it does change the feel of the print quite a bit!