Looking forward to some more of the build videos. The Mustangs with a 5.0 in decent condition are a little out of my price range around here but I did buy a 1998 3.8 that I'm trying to fix up and get back on the road.
I got lucky on this one, since usually you'll see rollers sell for $1200. Still haven't done the brakes yet, want to go ahead and do struts and shocks at same time.
For your temp gauge problem I have had that exact problem and what I found the cause to be is grounds. If the car is missing grounds or they are dirty they will cause the temp gauge and oil pressure gauge (not sure about the fuel gauge but I would imagine as well) to read very wrong. So check your grounds like the main one that connects from the pass side motor mount to the body of the car as well as one that is below the radio on the pass side underneath the glove box. Worth giving it a try and best of luck with your stang.
@@80sfordfan34 yea maybe if the negative cable was broken when all the current was only passing back to the battery with a few grounds causing all the heat. Not really sure about that though not sure what would cause the terminal to break.
Unfortunately I think transmission may be done... took it for a drive and it would wind up to 4k+ rpm before it decided to shift, don't think it's going into 4th either. I'm going to do video taking it for a drive.
It will be a bit... lol. Very very slow. I did pick up some better condition cloth seats to go in it. But weather didn't cooperate, so haven't got a chance to swap out.
Original owner of a '94 Mustang AOD-E. There was a service bulletin on the torque converter, so it was replaced free even out of warranty back in the mid-90s. It's not a bad transmission- look at all the taxis and police cruisers than ran almost forever.
Really, never heard about that. I had my green 94 in 2005? I think... They definitely weren't replacing them then, I didn't get a notice. I may just look into replacing the torque converter, I did a title check, didn't see anything about warranty work come up in history.
Nice I have the same car in white I’m trying to figure out two vacuum lines that are plugged on the left and right tree you think you know where they would go with a photo I could really use your help bro
Damn this makes me wanna drive my mustang. My 5.0 has been sitting for a few years now since Squirrels got underneath my hood, chewed up some wires and fried my entire system. I hope to take it all apart and my a newer coyote drivetrain in it
My 95 had the factory 16s but I found some pretty decent 18x9 chrome cobra replicas I found on marketplace for $250, I put 265/35r18 tires I wanted 275s but we're backordered but the 265s fit and look good but even 9s didn't stick out enough so I put 1.5" CJs pony parts hub centric spacers on back and 1" on front and it looks pretty sick, only thing is they have enough stickout where if it was lowered they would rub bad on bumps I bet. Those 17s look good just need spacers fronts stick out more so spacers aren't necessary for good looks but at least 3/4" or maybe 1" would push em out to edge of fender with out rubbing. That's only thing that sucks with sn95s is how narrow the rear axl is compared to those really wide fenders, compared to a 93 down fox there like wide body. 94/95 Sn95 is basically a super fox same thing but improved practically everything even the under rated engine has the bigger cobra mass air flow housing. They underated the engine to 215 instead of 225 so the 1st gen 4.6 HP wasnt rated lower than the outgoing HO, the 4.6 would been hated even more than they already were, ditching the legendary 5 litre that it's had for decades was seriously un popular. I like that my 95 has a 5.0 vs the 2v mod motor but I would love to have a 96-98 svt 32v dohc cobra, every one of those engines untill 04 were hand built an signed my builder, that's sick...
I bought that scan tool years ago. I think maybe Summit, but could be wrong. The OBD1 or EEC-IV plug is behind passenger side strut tower. It might be connected to a plug cover.
Put a 351 Windsor in it with a good top end and cam with a t56. Be a badass car you can easily hit 400+ rwhp with a stock bottom end 351 with a decent heads cam and intake and it's a pretty straight forward swap in a 302 equipped car.
That would be cool, but this car (at least for now), will be budget build. Mainly trying to all the necessary parts replaced that have been neglected over the years. Hopefully make a decent driver out of it. I have an 87 GT t-top that I've owned for 20+ years, it will be the one that gets money thrown into it. But need a shop 1st...all I have now is an open 16x24 pole barn.
Loose them junk NGK plugs and bet your check engine light goes out As Motocraft plugs only as it will put the computer into open loop with anything else and run lean also just keep this in mind
@@80sfordfan34 Yes I own a 95 GT Mustang and it red also it was built in May of 95 My other GT Mustang was built in June of 95 And yes the both of them have drains from the clock and the clock in the radio as well in a drain from the computer But what I've experienced the Alternators on this cars is an issue also as if the died in the alternator goes it will drain a battery Quick and if you have to replace the battery then you have to make the Engine computer relearn again and thats easy block the wheels good put into drive for 10 seconds then to reverse for 10 seconds put back in park and all of this is with the engine running Turn it off in park then restart again and then no problems ever stallin out Hope this helps out as I've been in your shoes And for me Nothing but Motocraft Everythin and once you use a Motorcraft oil filter you'll use nothing else there the only ones that puts a one way check valve in the oil filters to prevent a dry start up
Looking forward to some more of the build videos. The Mustangs with a 5.0 in decent condition are a little out of my price range around here but I did buy a 1998 3.8 that I'm trying to fix up and get back on the road.
I got lucky on this one, since usually you'll see rollers sell for $1200. Still haven't done the brakes yet, want to go ahead and do struts and shocks at same time.
I love those body styles I been trying to buy one but no luck 🍀
Lower the car a bit and add a set of staggered wheels with larger tires out back. 18" are the perfect wheel size. These look wild properly done up.
Sweet. I liked the pics 👌
For your temp gauge problem I have had that exact problem and what I found the cause to be is grounds. If the car is missing grounds or they are dirty they will cause the temp gauge and oil pressure gauge (not sure about the fuel gauge but I would imagine as well) to read very wrong. So check your grounds like the main one that connects from the pass side motor mount to the body of the car as well as one that is below the radio on the pass side underneath the glove box. Worth giving it a try and best of luck with your stang.
Thanks, I'll look into that. The cables look original. When I changed the battery, the negative terminal shattered.
@@80sfordfan34 yea maybe if the negative cable was broken when all the current was only passing back to the battery with a few grounds causing all the heat. Not really sure about that though not sure what would cause the terminal to break.
Keep us posted!
Unfortunately I think transmission may be done... took it for a drive and it would wind up to 4k+ rpm before it decided to shift, don't think it's going into 4th either. I'm going to do video taking it for a drive.
Can’t wait to you finish. Working on a 1995 cobra myself. Just got the block and heads back from the machine shop now gotta put it all back together.
It will be a bit... lol. Very very slow. I did pick up some better condition cloth seats to go in it. But weather didn't cooperate, so haven't got a chance to swap out.
Have to take the cluster lens off of the cluster move the needles to calibrate them to cold with the cold start
Ah ok. Sometime it seems like it wants to correct itself.. but doesn't. Figured I'd have to do something with the cluster apart. Thanks!
Original owner of a '94 Mustang AOD-E. There was a service bulletin on the torque converter, so it was replaced free even out of warranty back in the mid-90s. It's not a bad transmission- look at all the taxis and police cruisers than ran almost forever.
Really, never heard about that. I had my green 94 in 2005? I think... They definitely weren't replacing them then, I didn't get a notice. I may just look into replacing the torque converter, I did a title check, didn't see anything about warranty work come up in history.
Nice I have the same car in white I’m trying to figure out two vacuum lines that are plugged on the left and right tree you think you know where they would go with a photo I could really use your help bro
I'll check, but a lot of the vacuum lines on mine were messed up and I plugged them off for now. A low mile car would be a better reference.
Damn this makes me wanna drive my mustang. My 5.0 has been sitting for a few years now since Squirrels got underneath my hood, chewed up some wires and fried my entire system. I hope to take it all apart and my a newer coyote drivetrain in it
My 95 had the factory 16s but I found some pretty decent 18x9 chrome cobra replicas I found on marketplace for $250, I put 265/35r18 tires I wanted 275s but we're backordered but the 265s fit and look good but even 9s didn't stick out enough so I put 1.5" CJs pony parts hub centric spacers on back and 1" on front and it looks pretty sick, only thing is they have enough stickout where if it was lowered they would rub bad on bumps I bet. Those 17s look good just need spacers fronts stick out more so spacers aren't necessary for good looks but at least 3/4" or maybe 1" would push em out to edge of fender with out rubbing. That's only thing that sucks with sn95s is how narrow the rear axl is compared to those really wide fenders, compared to a 93 down fox there like wide body. 94/95 Sn95 is basically a super fox same thing but improved practically everything even the under rated engine has the bigger cobra mass air flow housing. They underated the engine to 215 instead of 225 so the 1st gen 4.6 HP wasnt rated lower than the outgoing HO, the 4.6 would been hated even more than they already were, ditching the legendary 5 litre that it's had for decades was seriously un popular. I like that my 95 has a 5.0 vs the 2v mod motor but I would love to have a 96-98 svt 32v dohc cobra, every one of those engines untill 04 were hand built an signed my builder, that's sick...
Where did you get the obd scan tool and where does it plug in. I got another 94 GT convertible and don’t know how to do it anymore.
I bought that scan tool years ago. I think maybe Summit, but could be wrong. The OBD1 or EEC-IV plug is behind passenger side strut tower. It might be connected to a plug cover.
Put a 351 Windsor in it with a good top end and cam with a t56. Be a badass car you can easily hit 400+ rwhp with a stock bottom end 351 with a decent heads cam and intake and it's a pretty straight forward swap in a 302 equipped car.
That would be cool, but this car (at least for now), will be budget build. Mainly trying to all the necessary parts replaced that have been neglected over the years. Hopefully make a decent driver out of it. I have an 87 GT t-top that I've owned for 20+ years, it will be the one that gets money thrown into it. But need a shop 1st...all I have now is an open 16x24 pole barn.
I heard a gun go off lol
Yup! There's about 200 acres behind my property, there's a hunting lease.
Loose them junk NGK plugs and bet your check engine light goes out As Motocraft plugs only as it will put the computer into open loop with anything else and run lean also just keep this in mind
Haven't got a check engine light for running lean anymore, just the smog stuff. Dealing with a battery drain currently.
@@80sfordfan34 Yes I own a 95 GT Mustang and it red also it was built in May of 95 My other GT Mustang was built in June of 95 And yes the both of them have drains from the clock and the clock in the radio as well in a drain from the computer But what I've experienced the Alternators on this cars is an issue also as if the died in the alternator goes it will drain a battery Quick and if you have to replace the battery then you have to make the Engine computer relearn again and thats easy block the wheels good put into drive for 10 seconds then to reverse for 10 seconds put back in park and all of this is with the engine running Turn it off in park then restart again and then no problems ever stallin out Hope this helps out as I've been in your shoes And for me Nothing but Motocraft Everythin and once you use a Motorcraft oil filter you'll use nothing else there the only ones that puts a one way check valve in the oil filters to prevent a dry start up