Must Do Upgrade for Heavy Overlanding Rigs
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- If you have a heavy overland rig or tow with your rig then you need to seriously consider upgrading your brakes.
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LoL! "people will think I'm crazy" ... says the middle aged man with cotton candy colored hair! 😂 Love ya Matt, keep up the great content.
There's lots of reasons for people to think I'm crazy. 😂😂
@Ozark Overland Adventures you've always been crazy. But it's what's kept you from going insane 🤪
Hey Matt, Marco Cruz here, another video that I love. I like how you are simple and just you. I appreciate all your videos of stuff and you are one of my biggest Overlanding motivated. Thank you
Great job. Definetly a much needed upgrade that is so often overlooked. The only thing that I would have done at the same time, and have on my truck, is to upgrade the brake hoses to change them out with s/s braded ones. They really help with pedal feel and are much stronger if they get caught on things on the trail.
I put that same pad/rotor setup on my Ram 1500 that tows my 5000 lb work trailer everyday. Love them.
I’ve had PS brakes (pads and rotors) my JKU since 2018. Changed the pads last year. Still happy with them. Great in the mountains of Colorado, great for in pavement too.
Thanks for talking about this. Nobody talks about brakes , they spend all the money on "cool". I mentioned this on some forums before. Even going up one inch on my tire size - I can feel it. It's perfectly fine for now but I'm absolutely going to get drilled and slotted discs and ceramic pads just like this.
I installed the same kit from Power Stop on my F150 and absolutely loved them! I have to admit that I purchased them because they were a great value but they turned out to be very good brakes. I towed my 30 ft tt many, many miles through mountainous regions and never had any issues. Also noticed a reduction in brake dust on my wheels. I actually traded that truck in with over 35,000 miles on the brakes for my Gladiator.
I have not upgraded my gladiator brakes yet as it stops well.
From my experience with my 2014 overland 10,000 pound tundra I found the best brakes before bigger calipers ect was slotted rotors and factory pads and brembo dot 5.1 fluid.
Believe me I’ve tried crossdrilled and slotted rotors, (they would fill the holes with mud and “crack” the rotors)
I’ve had huge brake fade /soft pedal from crappy brake fluid and have had a set of power stop extreme pads only last 10k miles.
That’s just my experience with heavy rigs
you should lubricate the caliper guide pins with brake grease when removing caliper if you have a frozen guide pins caliper can stick and overheat your brakes or uneven wear on your brakes DONT FORGET TO PUMP BREAKE PEDAL WHEN DONE Don't forget to burn the brakes in
I'm a HUGE fan of PowerStop products. I use their pads on all of my BIG Brembo-Equipped cars. They are quiet and dust-free. What more can you ask for? Great video Matt!
I run powerstop products on my 08 Silverado, I will never go back to stock replacement brakes. It really doesn't matter what you drive, powerstop provides a huge improvement over any stock brake application.
That's the same kit I went with. I loved them on the road but found out in the mud and dirt the slots would fill up with the muck so I kept the pads and went back to regular rotors.
Actually, the slots and holes subtract from the total contact area for the pads. Thus the braking efficiency(stopping power) is some percentage less than that of a stock(solid) rotor.
The slots and holes are strictly for cooling, not for adding any additional 'stopping power'.
Those who feel they stop better than a solid disk...could that be because the factory pads (and/or rotors for that matter) were worn out when the upgrade was done?? Naturally the 'stopping power' will feel better (increased), though I humbly posit that new factory pads/rotors would feel just as improved.
Now if you upgrade the caliper too, that's a different story.
But a simple rotor and pad refresh doesn't change the total amount of hydraulic force generated by the factory calipers.
So on average, a solid disk will always be more efficient (better stopping power) than a disk with less surface area (slots/holes).
Slots/holes also chew pads faster. And rigs with brake-bias speed and traction control systems (girly modes in #80series speak) will noticeably exacerbate the issue.
Seatbelt sir. We want to make sure you continue to put out content. 😂. Good video.
I was doing breaks for a friend one time on a Pontiac g6 and could not get the piston in, destroyed a c clamp trying then figured out that it rotates in. Once I rotated it in, it was effortless lol. That was the only time I ever ran across a caliper like that.
Part of the reason I Titan swapped my rig was to get the full sized brakes on my midsized Frontier. Totally agree with your logic and I love having the additional stopping power on my truck on and off-road. Great vid buddy!
I love the idea of people doing brakes on their own. There's a couple of things I noticed though. You're going to fight the caliper less if you take the time to pop the caliper off the bracket before removing the bracket. It's only 2 extra bolts and it also gives you the opportunity to lubricate the slide pins. Almost always, new rotors come with oil on them to prevent them from rusting on a shelf. That should be cleaned off with brake cleaner. Any oils and grease transfer to the rotor when you grab the braking surface. This can decrease pad life. Lastly, a c-clamp is less than ideal. When they cast the caliper, the spot that the c-clamp presses isn't designed to have pressure in it. I know, I know, people have done it forever. I've done it too. I'm just saying that I've seen calipers crack this way. Definitely keep the old pad in there though. It protects the piston when you're pushing it back in.
Glad to see this. I have 16" wheels so no big brake kit for me. Will be interested on how this upgrade does. Keep us posted bud!!
Thanks!
We have had the Teraflex Big Break kit & love them. Definitely can notice a difference in stopping then with the factory rotors & brakes.
Those were the first mod I did on my JKU 2 years ago. They have been amazing!
Got this brake set for my '08 Grand Cherokee because I upped the tire size and added 1" wheel spacers. They stop the heavier tires on a dime. Love the upgrades.
You did that right! I have done this combo on many performance applications and was able to do 150-0 stops multiple times without fade and fast braking! These make a WORLD of difference! Appreciate your videos Matt!
I installed these brakes and rotors on my 4runner recently and definitely noticed better braking power.
I've had these on my ecodiesel gladiator for a year. They are great. I put them on my other jeeps too. Reasonably priced too. You do have to drive a certain way to break them in
Hi Matt, love the channel. Thank you for this video. 😊
Hey Matt, I've done just what you are doing with the rotors... You will want to go back to solid after being in the mud. I didn't think it would make a huge difference but from first hand experience your breaking power when there is mud involved is less. The slots and holes give less surface area to break with and when they get full of mud and wet stuff it is even less. Those types of rotors are meant for heat dissipation not breaking power, so just be mindful of that when out testing them !! Love the channel too man !!
I'm going to find out and let everyone know. I did discuss this issue with Powerstop and they said I shouldn't have an issue with their rotors.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures Hey Matt, any updates on this? I appreciate your gear and upgrade videos!
@@ladyrocklander The brakes feel awesome!
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures good to know, I’m looking to upgrade before I set out for MOORE. So no issues with mud then?
We have a heavy Gladiator as well. We are going to upgrade to a dual piston set up once the factory brakes wear down a little.
I use powerstop brakes and rotors on every vehicle i have including my wifes daily. Great brakes at a reasonable price for how good they are.
Something to keep in mind is that wider tires help with braking too
Will be interesting to see how these act on the trail.
Curious to know how the drilled and spotted rotors hold up over time to off roading. Would like to know how they hold up to mud, small rocks hidden in the muck, and other things we can encounter off the beaten path. The drilled & slotted front rotors on our 2017 challenger TA 392 froze the first year we had the car from simply driving around in slush and snow one day 😂
I'll let you know. I discussed this with Powerstop before putting them on my Gladiator. We will see.
Always enjoy these vids Matt, great tips to keep in mind. I tend to ride my brakes 🤦🏽♂️. Looks like your door vinyls need to be replaced!
Matt. The pins need high temp grease, and the shims need to be removed and cleaned. The order I do it in. I have been a mechanic for 20 years. 1st step remove little bolts. 2nd remove caliper and push in piston. Set caliper on 🪣 good idea for at home. You need to keep the weight off the hose. 3rd pull big caliper bracket bolts and remove rotor. 4t Degrease new rotor it coated in oil not good for new pads. 5th pull pins out of bracket and grease them one at a time don't mix them up some are different. The pins needs to move easy. 6th pull shims off and clean shim pockets so pads slide easy. 7th install new shims and bolt brakets back on. 8th install new pads. 9th install the small bolts. I use a small amount of thread locker on Big Bolts tourque to spec. Don't forget to torque wheel nuts.
AND PUMP brake pedal before putting in gear. Check fluid. Make sure fluid level is in the low max area, remove/add as needed
Very good advice for people to consider upgrading their brakes. Upgrading vehicles to make them go further off-road or faster down the road is all cool and everything but if you can't stop before that obstacle that suddenly appears in front of you it's all for nothing.
I would have gone with Dynatracs Progrip brakes and rotors. Powerstop doesn’t sell just rotors. You have to rebuy the entire kit.
Great job! 🎉
You’ll love these brakes, I have them on my truck.
Put the PowerStops on my F150 before I bought the Bronco. They are fantastic!
Nice videos ! Greetings from Peru !
Hey, thanks!
Seriously, go big brakes. I went thru that couples of years ago and never regretted it. I off with my trailer, it’s a safety issue. Now, on the JK, you could put a set of RAM 1500, bold on. It was at the time sold by Crown for a fraction of the price. When I received them, there was the Chrysler pentastar on the calipers. However, the discs that come with the kit could be upgraded.
Na, waist of money. When you have the complete set from this company, they work great. Had mine on for a year without issues. My gladiator is set up very similar and I tow my tj wrangler as well.
Excellent
The one thing you should have added was to clean the oil off the new rotors prior to installing. Some new by might install them oily and have a big problem.
*newby
The best way to do that is by spraying a shop rag with brake clean and wiping the pad mating surface but leaving The anti-corrosion compound on the rotor hub. This will keep the brake rotors looking nicer longer. It will also prevent the brake rotor from rusting to the vehicle hub.
Power stop makes decent stuff and a brake upgrade is a good idea but im not sure id go drilled and slotted rotors on an off road rig that sees mud dirt rocks ect... but we will see.
So far so good.
Thats a nice color powder coat on those calipers. Oh wait...is that actually mud? 🤣
Big Brother Insurance is always lurking... 👻
Shouldn't do drilled. Slots only. Especially given the weight/heat, drilled are prone to crack. Also, the amount of debris kicked up into the rotor is much more than say a street rod. I caught something in one of the drilled holes and it was wretched sounding.
Slotted and high temp rating are the way to go. Do not imo get cerramic pads for a heavy rig.
Another thing to note... if you go snow bounding, make sure your pads temp rating included sub freezing temps. I made the error of going higher temp and the 1st freeze the brakes might as well been greased. Cheers ya'all.
I discussed this issue with Powerstop and feel confident these will do well for me. If something goes wrong I'll let you know.
I almost went with this kit on my JK but was told they'll hold the mud and grit in the holes and cause more issues. I'll be watching to hear your reviews as your terrain is similar to what I see in the Northeast, just add in snow lol.
I'll let you know. I discussed this with Powerstop before putting them on my Gladiator. We will see.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures awesome can't wait!!!
The one thing you never mentioned, was upgrades to the vehicle. Suspension uprades, wheels/tires, armour, and those new brakes, also need to be deducted from your total available payload, which is the difference between dry weight and your total allowable GVWR. You cannot increase GVWR, this is set from factory, which means you cannot legally increase payload.
If your Gladiator is too heavy without including you, your fuel, and all of your actual upgrades, then you are legally too heavy, new brakes or not. If you plan on towing...you're asking for trouble.
Whatever you have done is up to you, and State and Provincial laws may differ, but the GVWR is set and a legal thing that is pretty much everywhere. If you get in an accident, it becomes your fault. If you ever try to go through Canada to get to or from Alaska, you will have to pull over and get to your GVW or leave it there.
I'm not being an ass, just trying to offer sound advice...I would lose the drawers, and built-ins, and just pack light weight bags, and gear boxes, or upgrade your truck. The rims/tires, suspension, armour, racks, winch, RTT etc. had you eclipsing your GVWR before you loaded it up.
Stay safe!
There are many factors that go into calculating of vehicles GVWR. Brake size, spring capacity, sway bars, axle shaft diameters, ect. By upgrading many of those components you legally can have the vehicle recertified for a higher GVWR. Ask your insurance about what is needed if that is a concern you have.
It makes me wonder how all the guys with the Alu-Cab are doing. Some of them are pushing 1,500 pounds over GVW! I'm doing my best to be at, or below if at all possible.
After seen this video I went looking for more information and maybe you can share your input after testing yours a bit on your trail runs, but seams as drilled and slotted may not be smart as when they get hot under breaking then plunged in to water they tend to get warped as well with the mudd that can get packed in to the groves can cause some premature pad and rotor wear, these are just what I'm finding and I'm sure quality and driver care play a part as well
I discussed this with Powerstop and they said it shouldn't be an issue with their rotors. We will see.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures good deal then I'll keep an eye and ear out for a later review from ya possibly when pads are in need for a maintenance change 👍👍
Great video, Matt. I’ve had this set on my 07 JKU for a while now and it’s quite an upgrade from stock. Kind of unrelated question - where did you get your custom topographic map decals on Sully? Love the look and I’ve never seen where you could make it a custom area before. By the way, I’m a fellow central Arkansan so hope I might run into you on the trail someday!
Thanks! They are from stickyvinylz.com
Great video and tutorial, just curious why not change the lines to braided/ stainless?
I hate changing brake lines. LOL
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures Do it anyway, and maybe high temp brake fluid….
Id be interested to hear your thoughts on the slotted rotors in dirty muddy situations??? Ive heard they hold rocks at times. Any impute would be greatly appreciated
I'll let you know. I discussed this with Powerstop before putting them on my Gladiator. We will see.
Some people have said that drilled and slotted brakes trap dirt. Have you had any issues with that?
Also I wonder something else...
Since BLD uses the brakes... I wonder if BLD works better with better brakes. I guess it would?
I haven’t had any issues at all. I don’t think it would impact BLD at all.
Thank you for making this video. Question--what springs would you recommend to carry all that weight and not sag?
My JK rear sags about 1.5 to 2 inches when loaded. (I have a 4 inch Zone lift) I am considering getting some stronger springs, not sure which.
We love our Clayton Offroad springs. They handle the added weight very well.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures I appreciate the quick reply! Thank you.
Did you add something to your exhaust or is that normal sound?
Factory exhaust. It's normal.
Wait .. I’ve done this many times on vehicles and always get at least one bloody knuckle … c’mon. 😂
😂😂
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures I didn't hear you use any foul language either (I know, family channel), but how can you call it a proper upgrade without foul language and some bloody knuckles?
I’m surprised as slotted and drilled are not recommended for off road. They fill up with mud and are pretty much useless
I discussed this with Powerstop and they said I shouldn't have an issue with their rotors. We will see.
Yep, Fluffy came in at 6480 pounds without passengers..
Just for a safety disclosure… Those were steel toe bedroom slippers ! Now go about your day ppl nothing to see here ! 👍🏻
Normally I'm barefoot. LOL. This was a cold day. 😂
There's no doubt those are nice brakes. But you're over the vehicles rated GVWR... AND... it didn't include you , passengers... personal gear . Or the tongue weight of the the trailer....
Up graded brakes are not the cure. Either put the rig on a diet... get rid of a bunch of items or get a bigger vehicle !
In some states if you get in a vehicle accident.... and the on scene law enforcement officer discovers you have exceeded the weight rating. You can and will be ticketed. You may run into issues with your insurance coverage.
There are ways to upgrade the suspension and strengthen the frame. Then get the vehicle rated for a higher weight rating.
Again those are nice brake upgrades. But not the fix for the vehicle being over weight.
So 6580lbs. I know in your weigh in video you said that you had most of the stuff you normally travel with. But realistically, with yourself, wife, dog, food, drone gear etc. PLUS the tongue weight of a trailer. You’re going to be close to 7500ish?
Probably close.
Did you check your insurance
If over gvrw and get in a crash your at fault
Gvwr
Sorry bud I didn't watch that one commercial all the way it was boring and 28 minutes left so your commercial was longer than your video 🙏🙏😊