You really go to the excellent extent to reveal how precise the Swiss were in their production of these rifles. they balanced the design of the cartridge and engineered everything to work in concert for maximum accuracy throughout the range of a rifle. Like I mentioned before. you, Robe, sector, and throne are the king of K-31's. Keep up the good work Lenny. Dave.
Hi Scott: Thanks mang! I very much appreciate your input and kind words. Glad to hear my video didn't fall on deaf ears and that it was able to help you. God bless :)
Well this definitely takes my appreciation of these rifles and how far you go with them to a new height. I’ll be playing catch up for awhile I can see! What a piece of hardware. Looks like if my k31 turns out worthy there’s quite a few more tricks to be had.
Hi Lenac, first, thank you infinitely for this great explaining video! I start learning about the mechanics and this one is a great step forewards. I have a question: You did reduce the barrel pressing on the wood from 32 unces to 16 unces. Why this? And how did you find the right pressure of the barrel against the wood? (This reduces the tension within the triangle for the front, the back and the big screw in the back, if I understood it). I have a K11 and what is the optimal pressure of the front of the barrel against the suporting wood? Thanks anyway!!!!
Hi Boris: The 16 ounce is an arbitrary amount of pressure I use based on many K31's I've checked that I know have not been tampered with and are as they were built. And from the results at the range it seems to work well. I just know I want the barrel pretty much neutral in the barrel channel in the stock. I think even a little less would be ok too. But not really any more than that. Also be sure to check side to side preload and that is also neutral in the barrel channel. Keep in mind too that over the years some "settling" of the wood probably occurs too. So it's possible there may be too much pressure from that so that the rear screw can't really bring the pressure down to where I want. In that case using .005" brass shim stock I'll make a shim to put under the front lug of the receiver. Usually no more than one or 2 shims will do the job if that's what you have to do. But as for the K11 that is a completely different situation. The K11 is really a completely different rifle. The K11 is a Schmidt Ruben and the K31 is a Sig. The K11 has a metal band around the barrel that sits at the muzzle end of the stock. So the K11 barrel is truly a free-floated barrel at the muzzle. Cool? Thanks for watching and the questions (-:
Super! Awsome! I am compleately amazed about your so detailed and precise answers! I am also amazed about the sophisticated inner life of the machinery of the K31 and thanks to your great explications, I indeed start to understand more. Cooool! And now I realize that the K31 was really the high point of developpment and it was a SIG, and not a F&W production no more... really amazing!!!! Thank you so much for transmitting your knowledge to a curious swiss learning to exlore the machinery of the ks. It is a pleasure to enjoy your videos.Thank you so much. :-)
Hi Sam: Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. To be honest I can't remember where exactly I got this particular K31 it's been so long. However, I may have got it from Simpson Ltd. They're a pretty good source.
Hey man thanks for the video I've learned so much!! Just a question: Should the "muzzle bearing" at the front clamp the barell only in the center (@12 and 6 o clock.) Or all around in the Chanel? Mine touches the barell just in the center of the handguard (12o clock) and in the center of the lower stock (6 o clock) Sry for my English...
Hi, what do you think about the 3.4kg muzzle preload from factory story? I’ve never seen any k31 with that much preload, even playing with shims under the tang or changing the lug shim I can’t even get to that point…
Hi Dario: Well, 3.4kg (7.5 lbs.) does seem to be a bit much. I've taken apart and checked many untouched K31's and I don't remember any having that much preload. I realize I'm not a Swiss K31 tech putting these things together at Sig but I think my bench results speak for themselves. I'm in the 1 to 2 lbs preload school. Or if the rifle is stood on it butt the barrel is basically neutral.
Hi lencac, my k31 has the barrel that presses on the wood only in the lower part at 6 o'clock, I wanted to know how hard pounds / inck must the barrel press on the wood? Then must the barrel remain free to move in the upper part at 12 o'clock, or remain stationary by the wood? Best regards GianfrancoHi lencac, my k31 has the barrel that presses on the wood only in the lower part at 6 o'clock, I wanted to know how hard pounds / inck must the barrel press on the wood? Then must the barrel remain free to move in the upper part at 12 o'clock, or remain stationary by the wood? Best regards Gianfranco
Hi Gian: If I understand your question I'll try to answer. First, the Swiss changed the fundamental way the barrel works going from the K11, which at the muzzle end of the stock had a sleeve that was placed between the hand guard and stock at the muzzle end which allowed the barrel to be free unlike the K31. Keep in mind though the K11 was a Schmidt Ruben whereas the K31 is a Sig. The engineers on the K31 decided to hold the barrel in place by clamping the barrel at the muzzle end of the stock with bearing surface on both hand guard and stock. The entire length of the barrel is only contacted by the stock at the muzzle end of the stock. So do whatever you need to do to make sure the stock or hand guard is not making contact with the barrel anywhere except at the intended spot at the muzzle end. As for preload at the muzzle end of the stock I check it with my trigger pull gauge. My best results are with that preload, with hand guard removed and the rifle in the horizontal position to be about 16 oz. Also make sure the barrel alignment in the barrel channel of the stock is true. If it's not that's a whole different thing to correct that. And of course pay attention to the other things I bring to light in the video and understand how main screw tension and barrel band tension and alignment affect overall accuracy. Good luck (-:
@@lencac7952 Thanks for your reply. Yes, you got my question right, so the right force to lift the barrel (horizontally) out of the wood must be about 16 ounces, right? I have verified that the rod has no contact points along its entire length, except the end part. Thanks Gianfranco Italia
@@gianfrancotuzi3400 Yes, approx. 16 oz. And if the stock and action are good to go you realize you can make tiny adjustments to the muzzle preload by tightening or loosening the rear main screw a very tiny bit. Because these are old rifle I have found that with some, due to compression of the wood over time, it may be necessary to place a shim on the bottom of the front main screw lug between the steel shim in the stock and the front lug. Keep in mind unlike any other rifle I'm familiar with the recoil lug on the K31 is at the back of the trigger housing. The front main screw lug should only contact the stock on the bottom side where it meets the steel shim in the stock. I'll use .005" thick brass shim material to make a shim with. But that is only if you can't eliminate excessive preload at the muzzle by simply tightening or loosening the rear main screw. The front main screw should be tight. Not gorilla tight, but tight. Also make sure the front main screw isn't hitting the barrel threads before it brings the action and stock tight. I've had to shorten the front main screw a couple times because of that. Oh and one other thing. If either of the main screws wobble while it is screwed in or out that means the screw is damaged from the action not being tight in the stock. If that's the case the main screw would need to be replaced. I had one once that when I tried to remove the front main screw the head of it broke off. That's how damaged it was.
![ไลฟ์สุ่ม iPhone 295 บาท... โกงมั้ย?[ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.97 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gdstHEE4UUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for all the important common sense advice,sure helps anyone who is fortunate to have & enjoy a K31
Hi Daniel. Thanks mang, very much appreciated :)
You really go to the excellent extent to reveal how precise the Swiss were in their production of these rifles. they balanced the design of the cartridge and engineered everything to work in concert for maximum accuracy throughout the range of a rifle. Like I mentioned before. you, Robe, sector, and throne are the king of K-31's. Keep up the good work Lenny. Dave.
Thanks Thor!
Thanks ! i am a owner of k31 and thanks to You i can better understand my rifle.
Hi Michai: Glad I could help (-:
Just purchased a new K31 this past weekend and used your info. THANKS. She shot great. Keep making those videos Lencac, love em.
Hi Scott: Thanks mang! I very much appreciate your input and kind words. Glad to hear my video didn't fall on deaf ears and that it was able to help you. God bless :)
Well this definitely takes my appreciation of these rifles and how far you go with them to a new height. I’ll be playing catch up for awhile I can see! What a piece of hardware. Looks like if my k31 turns out worthy there’s quite a few more tricks to be had.
I keep finding more of your K31 videos! I have learned a lot! Thanks.
When is the next one??? They are excellent
Hi Lenac, first, thank you infinitely for this great explaining video! I start learning about the mechanics and this one is a great step forewards. I have a question: You did reduce the barrel pressing on the wood from 32 unces to 16 unces. Why this? And how did you find the right pressure of the barrel against the wood? (This reduces the tension within the triangle for the front, the back and the big screw in the back, if I understood it). I have a K11 and what is the optimal pressure of the front of the barrel against the suporting wood? Thanks anyway!!!!
Hi Boris: The 16 ounce is an arbitrary amount of pressure I use based on many K31's I've checked that I know have not been tampered with and are as they were built. And from the results at the range it seems to work well. I just know I want the barrel pretty much neutral in the barrel channel in the stock. I think even a little less would be ok too. But not really any more than that. Also be sure to check side to side preload and that is also neutral in the barrel channel. Keep in mind too that over the years some "settling" of the wood probably occurs too. So it's possible there may be too much pressure from that so that the rear screw can't really bring the pressure down to where I want. In that case using .005" brass shim stock I'll make a shim to put under the front lug of the receiver. Usually no more than one or 2 shims will do the job if that's what you have to do.
But as for the K11 that is a completely different situation. The K11 is really a completely different rifle. The K11 is a Schmidt Ruben and the K31 is a Sig. The K11 has a metal band around the barrel that sits at the muzzle end of the stock. So the K11 barrel is truly a free-floated barrel at the muzzle. Cool?
Thanks for watching and the questions (-:
Super! Awsome! I am compleately amazed about your so detailed and precise answers! I am also amazed about the sophisticated inner life of the machinery of the K31 and thanks to your great explications, I indeed start to understand more. Cooool! And now I realize that the K31 was really the high point of developpment and it was a SIG, and not a F&W production no more... really amazing!!!! Thank you so much for transmitting your knowledge to a curious swiss learning to exlore the machinery of the ks. It is a pleasure to enjoy your videos.Thank you so much. :-)
@@taijiartrock Thanks dude! It's feedback from people like yourself who make it all worth while for me (-:
Thank you for the info, clearly advanced engineering. Where did you get your rifle? It is a beautiful example.
Hi Sam: Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. To be honest I can't remember where exactly I got this particular K31 it's been so long. However, I may have got it from Simpson Ltd. They're a pretty good source.
@@lencac7952
Thank you, I will look there. I really appreciate your deep dive and understanding on this subject.
Hey man thanks for the video I've learned so much!! Just a question: Should the "muzzle bearing" at the front clamp the barell only in the center (@12 and 6 o clock.) Or all around in the Chanel? Mine touches the barell just in the center of the handguard (12o clock) and in the center of the lower stock (6 o clock) Sry for my English...
Hi, what do you think about the 3.4kg muzzle preload from factory story? I’ve never seen any k31 with that much preload, even playing with shims under the tang or changing the lug shim I can’t even get to that point…
Hi Dario: Well, 3.4kg (7.5 lbs.) does seem to be a bit much. I've taken apart and checked many untouched K31's and I don't remember any having that much preload. I realize I'm not a Swiss K31 tech putting these things together at Sig but I think my bench results speak for themselves. I'm in the 1 to 2 lbs preload school. Or if the rifle is stood on it butt the barrel is basically neutral.
Hi lencac, my k31 has the barrel that presses on the wood only in the lower part at 6 o'clock, I wanted to know how hard pounds / inck must the barrel press on the wood? Then must the barrel remain free to move in the upper part at 12 o'clock, or remain stationary by the wood?
Best regards GianfrancoHi lencac, my k31 has the barrel that presses on the wood only in the lower part at 6 o'clock, I wanted to know how hard pounds / inck must the barrel press on the wood? Then must the barrel remain free to move in the upper part at 12 o'clock, or remain stationary by the wood?
Best regards Gianfranco
Hi Gian: If I understand your question I'll try to answer. First, the Swiss changed the fundamental way the barrel works going from the K11, which at the muzzle end of the stock had a sleeve that was placed between the hand guard and stock at the muzzle end which allowed the barrel to be free unlike the K31. Keep in mind though the K11 was a Schmidt Ruben whereas the K31 is a Sig. The engineers on the K31 decided to hold the barrel in place by clamping the barrel at the muzzle end of the stock with bearing surface on both hand guard and stock. The entire length of the barrel is only contacted by the stock at the muzzle end of the stock. So do whatever you need to do to make sure the stock or hand guard is not making contact with the barrel anywhere except at the intended spot at the muzzle end. As for preload at the muzzle end of the stock I check it with my trigger pull gauge. My best results are with that preload, with hand guard removed and the rifle in the horizontal position to be about 16 oz. Also make sure the barrel alignment in the barrel channel of the stock is true. If it's not that's a whole different thing to correct that. And of course pay attention to the other things I bring to light in the video and understand how main screw tension and barrel band tension and alignment affect overall accuracy. Good luck (-:
@@lencac7952 Thanks for your reply. Yes, you got my question right, so the right force to lift the barrel (horizontally) out of the wood must be about 16 ounces, right? I have verified that the rod has no contact points along its entire length, except the end part.
Thanks Gianfranco Italia
@@gianfrancotuzi3400 Yes, approx. 16 oz. And if the stock and action are good to go you realize you can make tiny adjustments to the muzzle preload by tightening or loosening the rear main screw a very tiny bit. Because these are old rifle I have found that with some, due to compression of the wood over time, it may be necessary to place a shim on the bottom of the front main screw lug between the steel shim in the stock and the front lug. Keep in mind unlike any other rifle I'm familiar with the recoil lug on the K31 is at the back of the trigger housing. The front main screw lug should only contact the stock on the bottom side where it meets the steel shim in the stock. I'll use .005" thick brass shim material to make a shim with. But that is only if you can't eliminate excessive preload at the muzzle by simply tightening or loosening the rear main screw. The front main screw should be tight. Not gorilla tight, but tight. Also make sure the front main screw isn't hitting the barrel threads before it brings the action and stock tight. I've had to shorten the front main screw a couple times because of that. Oh and one other thing. If either of the main screws wobble while it is screwed in or out that means the screw is damaged from the action not being tight in the stock. If that's the case the main screw would need to be replaced. I had one once that when I tried to remove the front main screw the head of it broke off. That's how damaged it was.
Where did you get the diopters at?
www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/17802
www.champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx?p=ItemDetailOptions&item=570