Hey Richard - just letting you know from experience with building these motors. One or two of the intake/exhaust studs in the head tap into a water jacket. If you see a drip, you might want to dab some silicone or Teflon tape on the threads. Been burned before by one dripping after I had it in the car. But I've also seen it "fix" itself with a few heat cycles.
OK, 1984 standard 2.2 was 84HP (Calif) to 87 HP. It was 8.2:1 CR 1984 Shelby 2.2 was a stock block and pistons but Shelby had 0.030" milled off the BLOCK to raise the CR up to 9.6:1with a stock thick head gasket. He also used a thinner Direct Connection head gasket to get to 10.2:1 CR. He then advanced the stock camshaft 10 degrees with a Bespoke to the Shelby 2.2. It made 107HP in California trim and 110HP in all other states. Timing was set at 20 degrees but the Shelby only ECM Computer advanced the timing close to 40 Degrees and had a Knock Sensor, the stock 2.2 did not. Richard can fake the Shelby Timing pulley by advancing the camshaft 1 tooth on the belt. Each tooth is 9 degrees.
When I was teenager my friend had a Daytona turbo. He was like this thing has a turbo can we make it faster. I pulled the signal to the gate and it pegged the boost gauge torque steer so hard on 1-2,2-3. I put the signal back on the gate we had no idea what we we doing but I could tell that was way to much more power without changing anything. About 2 weeks later he pulled the signal off the gate and toasted it. Looking back I’m kinda surprised it didn’t pop right away first pull.
I worked on those vehicles from 1984 til 2005 so please listen to my comments. You should use 10mm head studs from arp if you want to torque it above factory specs.
Seems like everybody who's ever thrown more boost than stock specs goes with arp head studs, plus they are reusable I know people reuse torque to yield bolts but ya can't trust them like an arp product. 👍
At Pat Varney, I ran an stock 85 bottom end, little head bolts and skinny connecting rods to 356 HP and 389 tq for quite a while. Street driving and racing. Reused factory headbolts. Felpro bolts are junk.
I don't doubt it. I was referring to Richard trying to torque 10mm head bolts to 65+ a quarter turn. If they don't break its not clamping the head evenly and the bolts get weakened because they get stretched way more than they were intended . After a couple of heat cycles your likely to pop a couple of bolts. If you're going to torque it to 65 you have to use either 11mm bolts from 86 and up or use are 10mm studs.
@@richardholdener1727 don't try to use those bolts after going 65 . They are ruined. Get a set of are studs because the 84 does need more clamping force. Or you can drill them out to 11mm then give them 65+ a quarter or use are bolts and follow their torque specs please. I want to see more boost but use the blow thru intake so you can use a bigger throttle body from a 3.3l v6 or a bigger one from whereever you can get one and adapt it . They need more flow. Text me back and let me know what you are doing, I may be able to help. Maybe go to the roller cam set up but you'll need to change to round tooth timing belt gears.
If this is the block you’re eventuality going to run higher boost levels on you’re going to want to tap to 11mm studs. It’s common for those 10mm bolts to stretch before they arrive at 65ft/lbs
Having spent years calibrating torque wrenches I offer the following advice. Click type wrenches are not particularly accurate or repeatable. When resetting a torque value on this type of wrench, you should always torque something not important until the wrench clicks a couple of times. That way when you do tighten something important, the click value will be both more accurate and more repeatable. Don't always assume torque wrenches are accurate or repeatable, just because they are expensive, or convenient to use.
Whats the average margin on the click type wrenches? I work in aviation and 90% of our torque wrenches are click type, so i'm surprised to hear somebody say they are not accurate.
@@johndelta00 their accuracy depends on how they are used and maintained. It also depends on what quality they were ti start with. “Project Farm” has a video on TH-cam testing click tyoe wrenches which may be ihelpful. Also, they are typically calibrated at percent of full scale. Meaning that if you have two 5 percent wrenches and you need to tighten to 100 ft-lbs, then a 100 ft-lb wrnech will be more accurate for that job than a 259 ft-lb wrench. My calibration experience was in the Marine Corps Air Wing. We had a wide variety of tyoes of tirque wrenches. Its all about yhe right tool fir the right jib, and using it correctly.
@@2lotusman851 Indeed! Before I was cleared to get my TX DL, dad said son we are going to rebuild that Corvair engine first. Thats when I learned to turn the wrench.
Hey Richard - just letting you know from experience with building these motors. One or two of the intake/exhaust studs in the head tap into a water jacket. If you see a drip, you might want to dab some silicone or Teflon tape on the threads. Been burned before by one dripping after I had it in the car. But I've also seen it "fix" itself with a few heat cycles.
OK, 1984 standard 2.2 was 84HP (Calif) to 87 HP. It was 8.2:1 CR
1984 Shelby 2.2 was a stock block and pistons but Shelby had 0.030" milled off the BLOCK to raise the CR up to 9.6:1with a stock thick head gasket. He also used a thinner Direct Connection head gasket to get to 10.2:1 CR. He then advanced the stock camshaft 10 degrees with a Bespoke to the Shelby 2.2. It made 107HP in California trim and 110HP in all other states. Timing was set at 20 degrees but the Shelby only ECM Computer advanced the timing close to 40 Degrees and had a Knock Sensor, the stock 2.2 did not.
Richard can fake the Shelby Timing pulley by advancing the camshaft 1 tooth on the belt. Each tooth is 9 degrees.
THE SHELBY VERSION STARTED OUT AS AN NA MOTOR-THIS IS A LOW COMPRESSION TURBO WITH A DIFFERENT CAM AND INTAKE AND EXHAUST ETC...
I think that Chrysler installed the 2.2 in just about everything from stock to "Shelby Daytona" circa 1980. The turbo really made it fun.
When I was teenager my friend had a Daytona turbo. He was like this thing has a turbo can we make it faster. I pulled the signal to the gate and it pegged the boost gauge torque steer so hard on 1-2,2-3. I put the signal back on the gate we had no idea what we we doing but I could tell that was way to much more power without changing anything. About 2 weeks later he pulled the signal off the gate and toasted it. Looking back I’m kinda surprised it didn’t pop right away first pull.
If that's an 84 then you have 10mm head bolts are 45 + a quarter turn.
Thanks Richard CANT WAIT for the 2.5 stuff. PLEASE tell me you will throw something bigger then the terrible stock Mitsubishi turd. Truly a Legend 🇺🇲
WILL THE S475 WORK?
100% the back pressure on the mitsu has to be insane!
Destroked cranks are actually a thing. I have a Brian Crower 2.3L crank for my srt4. Drops from 3.98” to 3.74” stroke.
Cool, bought a new GLH Turbo in 85'!
Let’s go DV bathtub head!
Richard I'm hoping someday you will do a video on a 2.3 l Ford maybe the evolution of it as it becomes turbocharged and how much potential they have
I worked on those vehicles from 1984 til 2005 so please listen to my comments. You should use 10mm head studs from arp if you want to torque it above factory specs.
Seems like everybody who's ever thrown more boost than stock specs goes with arp head studs, plus they are reusable I know people reuse torque to yield bolts but ya can't trust them like an arp product. 👍
At Pat Varney, I ran an stock 85 bottom end, little head bolts and skinny connecting rods to 356 HP and 389 tq for quite a while. Street driving and racing. Reused factory headbolts. Felpro bolts are junk.
THESE WERE GENERIC BOLTS
I don't doubt it. I was referring to Richard trying to torque 10mm head bolts to 65+ a quarter turn. If they don't break its not clamping the head evenly and the bolts get weakened because they get stretched way more than they were intended . After a couple of heat cycles your likely to pop a couple of bolts. If you're going to torque it to 65 you have to use either 11mm bolts from 86 and up or use are 10mm studs.
@@richardholdener1727 don't try to use those bolts after going 65 . They are ruined. Get a set of are studs because the 84 does need more clamping force. Or you can drill them out to 11mm then give them 65+ a quarter or use are bolts and follow their torque specs please. I want to see more boost but use the blow thru intake so you can use a bigger throttle body from a 3.3l v6 or a bigger one from whereever you can get one and adapt it . They need more flow. Text me back and let me know what you are doing, I may be able to help. Maybe go to the roller cam set up but you'll need to change to round tooth timing belt gears.
ARP NOT ARE
If this is the block you’re eventuality going to run higher boost levels on you’re going to want to tap to 11mm studs. It’s common for those 10mm bolts to stretch before they arrive at 65ft/lbs
I like the fact it's not the LS! God I'm tired of those
Did you have a head done by DV for this ?, if so will there be AB testing for that too ?
I DON'T HAVE IT YET
Have you ever or would you do a dodge 4.7? That would be great other guys engine.
have not
Whatever happened to the head David Vizard had?
still not done yet
Having spent years calibrating torque wrenches I offer the following advice.
Click type wrenches are not particularly accurate or repeatable.
When resetting a torque value on this type of wrench, you should always torque something not important until the wrench clicks a couple of times. That way when you do tighten something important, the click value will be both more accurate and more repeatable.
Don't always assume torque wrenches are accurate or repeatable, just because they are expensive, or convenient to use.
Whats the average margin on the click type wrenches? I work in aviation and 90% of our torque wrenches are click type, so i'm surprised to hear somebody say they are not accurate.
@@johndelta00 their accuracy depends on how they are used and maintained. It also depends on what quality they were ti start with. “Project Farm” has a video on TH-cam testing click tyoe wrenches which may be ihelpful. Also, they are typically calibrated at percent of full scale. Meaning that if you have two 5 percent wrenches and you need to tighten to 100 ft-lbs, then a 100 ft-lb wrnech will be more accurate for that job than a 259 ft-lb wrench. My calibration experience was in the Marine Corps Air Wing. We had a wide variety of tyoes of tirque wrenches. Its all about yhe right tool fir the right jib, and using it correctly.
@@johndelta00 sorry about typos in my response, it is late, keys are small, I am old.
CLICK WRENCHES ARE BOTH ACCURATE AND REPEATABLE
U gonna use that speed master head I showed u
Speedmaster makes an upgraded 2.2L head???
Pat, it's Chinese junk from the tooling that Chrysler sold to FAW/Hongqi in the mid 90s. They drop seats and guides.
Ever worked on a Corvair engine?
Fun engine to work on!
At least back in the 70s when you could get parts.
@@2lotusman851 Indeed! Before I was cleared to get my TX DL, dad said son we are going to rebuild that Corvair engine first. Thats when I learned to turn the wrench.
I HAVE NOT
It's only going to damage the bolts or break them. Find an 86 block and use it.
Thanks for all the comments!