Thank you! I have been thinking about filming more but not really confident with a camera. I will be tackling the subframe bushes soon so it will be a good time to practise with the camera. Thanks again bro means a lot
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 To be honest man it will just come just talk to it like its a friends its a little weird at first but it comes natural after a few attempts! yeah that will be the perfect man looking forward to seeing it!
@@JoshuaMarshall I feel like I've missed loads of good opportunities for content even small things like fitting led lighting kits, upgrading headlights as well lots of mechanical work on a variety of cars/vans. I've subbed to your channel bud
Hi, love a simple vid, made this a doddle for a simpleton like me to swap out. I am having a slight issue however, the piece that rotates on the actuator is set at the 9 o clock position in the video, my suspected broken one was at the 12 o clock position and my replacement one is at roughly 5 o clock position (hope that makes sense). With the replacement one it seems to be the wrong place for it to start as it would force the arm against the metal it's next to. Should it spin freely when disconnected or will it only move when powered?
Many thanks for your comment, in regards to your actuator, it doesn't matter what position the arm is in because when its plugged it will automatically move to its correct starting position. When you turn the engine off I think its resting position is towards the windscreen but once started it will move its full travel towards the front bumper... hope this helps and any problems just leave a comment. Cheers
When you fit the new actuator dont attach it, just plug it in and start the car for a few seconds then shut it off and check its in the correct 9 o'clock position
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 that seems the obvious thing to do once you've said it, Thanks! Reckon the neighbours will be annoyed to hear me fiddling with the car at 11:15 at night?
Might be a stupid question but what problems were you having for you too replace this mate, I've got a 55plate 2lt 130bhp diesel mondy smokes under acceleration sometimes has power other times it feels like limp mode, did you have similar? Thanks in advance
Hey Deano. I've never had a problem with mine. The one I took off was an actuator I'd repaired for someone and was just testing it. For your problem I wouldn't say the actuator is to blame. Assuming your smoke is black and you're not getting any errors on the dash (flashing glowplug light) my first 2 places to start would be to check all the boost hoses from the turbo to the egr for splits (normally accompanied by oily residue on the pipe) and secondly and most likely is the egr valve. Relatively easy to remove and give it a good clean. Take your time and keep persistent. Failing that just blank the egr completely. Hope this helps a little
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 alright mate cheers for the quick response, yh it's black smoke and sometimes the glow plug light does flash aswell ive not long had the car and only just noticed If I go above 3000rpm its like the turbo dies but it kicks in around 1800-2000 am really scratching my head haha, thanks again for quick response 👍I shall check the hoses and try egr cleaner and If that fails I'll blank it, if there anywhere else I should be looking please advice me further, thanks again, deano forgot to mention when engines warm turbo seems to kick in but whistles and glow plug light goes out
@@deano6992 Difficult to give anymore ideas other than turbo hoses and egr at the moment mate. If the glowplug is kicking in you'll have an error code which isnt a bad thing sometimes so if you can get it plugged in and get the code and let me know and I'll be able to help further. You can get a cheap code reader for about a tenner that's connects to your phone. If you watch this video and notice the part where I wiggle the lever, try this on yours it should be completely free end to end
Hi mate, my Mondeo has just started playing up, assuming it's the actuator. Code is P132B (Turbo Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit) coil light also flashing, loss of power, happened when flooring the car. Is this the problem?
It certainly sounds like it but it may not the be actuator. If you disconnect the lever from the actuator and give it a back and forth wiggle (like in the video) it should almost feel like it's not attached to anything, if it sticks anywhere along its travel then that would also trigger your code... If this is the case then search on here for "mr muscle mondeo turbo actuator" otherwise it the lever is not sticking I'd advise to have the actuator fixed for replaced. Hope this helps
Absolutely no programming. Don't let anybody tell you it needs tuning. Make sure the part numbers from your part match the new actuator. Definitely a job you can easily do at home
@@irwinmcevoy I see lol, when I watch it back on my phone I get a full screen so it's not bad at all. I've not watched it from a computer so I really don't know what it's like. I made the video for a guy that I sold this actuator to so wanted to focus pretty closely on the actuator. Thanks for the feedback though I'll take your advice on board for the future 👍🏼
Can a new/recon actuator be swapped for a broken one? I read that they are specific to each cars turbo! I also read that this is ******! So I'm confused
All the same mate, some other cars use these actuators but I wouldn't know if they'd fit/work. Every electronic turbo actuator on the mk3 mondeo is interchangeable. Hope this helps
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 thanks, I have permanent limp mode/coil light flashing, error 132A. Actuator arm is 100% free in movement, so I figure the box must be stuffed! Got a new one on order, followed your vid and did a trail on taking old one off - Cheers. Ps car is a mark 3 mondeo tdci st
@@steveallen1635 Yes all the same mate. Glad it helped you. The actuator is pretty easy to repair at home if you're good with a soldering iron and own a dremel
@@steveallen1635 If you send me your broken actuator I can repair it and also make a "how-to" video. I have no qualified experience with actuators but I've found the weak point in them and have now repaired 2 for other mk3 owners. If you need any advice just post a comment
Re-soldered the terminal posts inside, but the first coating needs to be removed as solder doesn't take to it so use a dremel (tight fiddly space) then it's a game to hold things in place whilst soldering. There's many videos on it so have a browse around All the best
If I was to buy a new one would it need programming to the car? I’ve heard about this online but not seen it actually stated anywhere for certain. Also what kind of price range is acceptable for the job?
@@solomoncase6968 No programming is required, just plug and play. You can do it yourself just like I did in this video. Should take you no more than 10 minutes. Buying a new one it's always good practice to match part numbers
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 I think I noticed on some other comments you said you’re located in the east mids. I’ve ordered one off eBay which should sort the problem out. If not do you still do repairs? I’m in Derby myself
I've changed it today, thank you, your video was very useful for me :)
Glad it helped you along 👍🏻
It was very easy with your video, everybody can do it I think.
Helpful guide bro you should upload more frequently the videos are clear !!!
Thank you! I have been thinking about filming more but not really confident with a camera. I will be tackling the subframe bushes soon so it will be a good time to practise with the camera.
Thanks again bro means a lot
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 To be honest man it will just come just talk to it like its a friends its a little weird at first but it comes natural after a few attempts! yeah that will be the perfect man looking forward to seeing it!
@@JoshuaMarshall
I feel like I've missed loads of good opportunities for content even small things like fitting led lighting kits, upgrading headlights as well lots of mechanical work on a variety of cars/vans. I've subbed to your channel bud
شكرا
Can you translate?
Hi, love a simple vid, made this a doddle for a simpleton like me to swap out.
I am having a slight issue however, the piece that rotates on the actuator is set at the 9 o clock position in the video, my suspected broken one was at the 12 o clock position and my replacement one is at roughly 5 o clock position (hope that makes sense). With the replacement one it seems to be the wrong place for it to start as it would force the arm against the metal it's next to. Should it spin freely when disconnected or will it only move when powered?
Many thanks for your comment, in regards to your actuator, it doesn't matter what position the arm is in because when its plugged it will automatically move to its correct starting position. When you turn the engine off I think its resting position is towards the windscreen but once started it will move its full travel towards the front bumper... hope this helps and any problems just leave a comment. Cheers
When you fit the new actuator dont attach it, just plug it in and start the car for a few seconds then shut it off and check its in the correct 9 o'clock position
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 that seems the obvious thing to do once you've said it, Thanks! Reckon the neighbours will be annoyed to hear me fiddling with the car at 11:15 at night?
@@HoileeUK nooo you'll be fine 😆 make sure you close the bonnet properly though.
Hello what is the first part you take out small can you please let me know what is the name
Might be a stupid question but what problems were you having for you too replace this mate, I've got a 55plate 2lt 130bhp diesel mondy smokes under acceleration sometimes has power other times it feels like limp mode, did you have similar? Thanks in advance
Hey Deano.
I've never had a problem with mine. The one I took off was an actuator I'd repaired for someone and was just testing it. For your problem I wouldn't say the actuator is to blame. Assuming your smoke is black and you're not getting any errors on the dash (flashing glowplug light) my first 2 places to start would be to check all the boost hoses from the turbo to the egr for splits (normally accompanied by oily residue on the pipe) and secondly and most likely is the egr valve. Relatively easy to remove and give it a good clean. Take your time and keep persistent. Failing that just blank the egr completely. Hope this helps a little
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 alright mate cheers for the quick response, yh it's black smoke and sometimes the glow plug light does flash aswell ive not long had the car and only just noticed If I go above 3000rpm its like the turbo dies but it kicks in around 1800-2000 am really scratching my head haha, thanks again for quick response 👍I shall check the hoses and try egr cleaner and If that fails I'll blank it, if there anywhere else I should be looking please advice me further, thanks again, deano forgot to mention when engines warm turbo seems to kick in but whistles and glow plug light goes out
@@deano6992
Difficult to give anymore ideas other than turbo hoses and egr at the moment mate. If the glowplug is kicking in you'll have an error code which isnt a bad thing sometimes so if you can get it plugged in and get the code and let me know and I'll be able to help further. You can get a cheap code reader for about a tenner that's connects to your phone. If you watch this video and notice the part where I wiggle the lever, try this on yours it should be completely free end to end
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 thanks mate will do 👍👌
Hi mate, my Mondeo has just started playing up, assuming it's the actuator. Code is P132B (Turbo Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit) coil light also flashing, loss of power, happened when flooring the car. Is this the problem?
It certainly sounds like it but it may not the be actuator. If you disconnect the lever from the actuator and give it a back and forth wiggle (like in the video) it should almost feel like it's not attached to anything, if it sticks anywhere along its travel then that would also trigger your code... If this is the case then search on here for "mr muscle mondeo turbo actuator" otherwise it the lever is not sticking I'd advise to have the actuator fixed for replaced.
Hope this helps
E vreo regula anume la montaj ,ca nu inteleg care este treaba cu ora 9,10..multumesc
Sorry, are you able to translate to English and I'll try my best to help
Is It plug & play or does It Need tuning? I have to replace mine (90€ on Amazon) and want to be sure I can get the job done by myself.
Absolutely no programming. Don't let anybody tell you it needs tuning.
Make sure the part numbers from your part match the new actuator. Definitely a job you can easily do at home
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014
Great!!! I've just placed the order on Amazon. Thanks for precious help!
Thank you man
Hope it helped you 👍🏼
Its like im looking through your letter box lol
Hi Irwin I really don't understand the comment 🤔 lol explain it for me then I'm sure the penny will drop
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 im talking about the narrow picture on your video, turn your phone round so you get a wider view lol
@@irwinmcevoy
I see lol, when I watch it back on my phone I get a full screen so it's not bad at all. I've not watched it from a computer so I really don't know what it's like. I made the video for a guy that I sold this actuator to so wanted to focus pretty closely on the actuator. Thanks for the feedback though I'll take your advice on board for the future 👍🏼
Can a new/recon actuator be swapped for a broken one? I read that they are specific to each cars turbo! I also read that this is ******! So I'm confused
All the same mate, some other cars use these actuators but I wouldn't know if they'd fit/work. Every electronic turbo actuator on the mk3 mondeo is interchangeable. Hope this helps
Also no actuator is unique to 1 single turbo. So yes you can buy yourself a new/used/recon and it'll bolt right up
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 thanks, I have permanent limp mode/coil light flashing, error 132A. Actuator arm is 100% free in movement, so I figure the box must be stuffed! Got a new one on order, followed your vid and did a trail on taking old one off - Cheers. Ps car is a mark 3 mondeo tdci st
@@steveallen1635
Yes all the same mate. Glad it helped you. The actuator is pretty easy to repair at home if you're good with a soldering iron and own a dremel
@@steveallen1635
If you send me your broken actuator I can repair it and also make a "how-to" video. I have no qualified experience with actuators but I've found the weak point in them and have now repaired 2 for other mk3 owners. If you need any advice just post a comment
So what have you actually done to repair it 🤷♂️
Re-soldered the terminal posts inside, but the first coating needs to be removed as solder doesn't take to it so use a dremel (tight fiddly space) then it's a game to hold things in place whilst soldering. There's many videos on it so have a browse around
All the best
The video was made for someone who had his repaired so the video was made to aid him removing, then when it's fixed, refitting
If I was to buy a new one would it need programming to the car? I’ve heard about this online but not seen it actually stated anywhere for certain. Also what kind of price range is acceptable for the job?
@@solomoncase6968
No programming is required, just plug and play. You can do it yourself just like I did in this video. Should take you no more than 10 minutes.
Buying a new one it's always good practice to match part numbers
@@bensdrivewaygarage9014 I think I noticed on some other comments you said you’re located in the east mids. I’ve ordered one off eBay which should sort the problem out. If not do you still do repairs? I’m in Derby myself
you only put two bolts in...there's three
You are correct Steve, unfortunately mine has only ever had 2 bolts in for the 6 years I've owned it. Thanks for the comment
I think mine has 5