I have seen numerous ways of doing this in TH-cam. Including using the starter, which i am reluctant to do. But this method seems to be the way it is supposed to be done. Thanks for uploading this. Glad i found this video!
You're a bloody legend mate. Couldn't budge my 22r pulley bolt until I learned your trick with the drift. I still had to put a 4 foot bar over my breaker bar but it came off eventually. Thanks mate.
Thanks, one step ahead of you. Meant to post back last night that I finally got it out. I heated the heck out of it and I used a powerful jumper box hooked to the batt to give it some extra power when I bumped the starter over and the bolt broke loose. Thanks for this video by the way.
Thank you! I struggled for the better part of an afternoon and broke my 19mm socket followed by my 2ft breaker bar. I was desperate, thank the Toyota God's the drift method worked when all else failed. Again, thank you!
You have a great, warm, delivery demeanour, makes it easy to listen to. Some people are plain hard on the senses. The assortment of methods is useful - otherwise I have to buy a special toblerone-shaped thing with a slot up towards one apex, and teeth in it about 4, occupying the flat opposite this apex. I have never bought the same car twice (keep them too long) so it's not just the irritating cost, it's the ordering-in time and waiting for the thing, and every cambelt kit says these toblerone bits are optional - way bad since I only find that out now I got the wife's Renault in bits...!
I finally got mine. On a Toyota with a 22 mm bolt. To get friction on the pulley, I tried different ways to bend the drive belt over itself, which was extra challenging because it is a short belt that doesn't serpentine. Even tried a long belt off a different vehicle but it was wider so it didn't grab the pulley grooves correctly. Finally, after experimenting with different ways to anchor the belt, I used 2 socket extensions to hold the end loops of the belt and had enough slack to fold the belt under itself on the crank pulley. It broke loose immediately with my 3/4 drive breaker bar and about 4 ft or so of leverage from my floor jack handle. Amazing how that rubber belt wedges itself and locks the pulley down solid. .
OMG!!, I can't believe you're suggesting that 'starter bump' method without warning viewers there is a very real possibility that the end of the bolt can shear off completely!. That's exactly what happened to me with my Toyota 2C-T engine, I was left with a stub sticking out of the end of thr crankshaft! Thankfully the stub was just long enough to grasp with a good pair of mole-grips, but it fought me all the way out for two days before I won with plenty of penetration fluid and some heat...
watched this video for a crank bolt on Toyora 2E engine, really didnt want to use the starter bump method, but decided to in the end, and definately helped loosen it up. and its off now, I dont have an impact/rattle gun so thanks
Got r' did. Used a 3/8 extension to lock keep the pulley from moving. After I quit bending screw drivers, and used the extension the bolt came out pretty easy. My battery didn't have enough juice for the starter trick, and my impact driver was too big to fit in front of the engine. Thanks a lot WheeliePete! Oh yeah, I drove almost 2,000 miles with a broken chain guide, and my bolts that hold the guide against the block were shaven down quite a bit. Tomorrow I have to figure out how to get one of them out.
what i found to use an impact driver on that bolt because theres not enough room because of the cross bar. with rad out just get a bi metal hole saw and drill thur the cross member and a long extension on the impact gun ... you wont see the hole once its reassembled.... i want to say i drilled an inch dia hole. but no... both my electric and air impact wrench never budged it
All super info. thankyou all. stocking up my brain and expecting the worst. surprised no mention of taking off the oil pan and putting a hammer handle between the connecting rod journal and the block.
I want to say thank you Pete! I bought an expensive 20v Lithium Impact gun for this job and many others. Long story short, the gun had 0 effect on that bolt, lol! (~350ft-lbs tq) So I had recalled your video, and was saved by a Dodge exhaust stud with the nut still on. (I miss you Shelby Daytona!) Using torch heat and your jam method, it's off now, with only slight bending of the dust cover. Now moving on to removing the VC and timing cover, carefully.
Great idea! I employed the breaker bar method and bumped the starter. One second and I was done. I went to school for auto mechanics and never would have thought up this idea. Thank you so much. Dave
Thank you for the video. It word great. I would suggest try using a flat peace of metal to stick through the pulley. I used one that was one inch wide by 1/8 inch thick. I did not have any damage to the dust cover, even though I had to use a 1/2inch breaker bar with another 2 foot long cheater bar to get it to turn.
THANKS for this video!! Couldn't get that F'n thing to budge. Got it... using your 3/8 extension method. Never considered doing it that way. Thanks again!
92 Toyota Pickup 4 cyl.. Harmonic Balancer bolt Hell.. First used a pipe wrench to hold the pulley in place, and used a 19mm socket, breaker bar, and ratchet. Both bent the pulley and rounded the bolt. then tried the bump start method with the pipe wrench on the now rounded off bolt, along with bump starting... 19mm bolt is now about a 16mm now after about five attempts. pulled the first pulley off and discovered the inside pulley is forged, so used a 30lbs pipe to beat the pulley into pieces around said bolt, using an angle grinder, sliced a groove in bolt and said pipe and a sledge hammer on just the leading edge of the cut to literally bang the bolt off. RIP: 2 ratchets 5 sockets 4 knuckles 15 ml blood 3 toes (pipe landed on my foot) 2 pulleys 1 bolt Result: Success.
Howdy, appreciate the video; found it while searching for a solution to my problem which is... yeah. Anyway my daughter tore up my car and apparently the timing belt ripped in half underneath. The child decided to pull the belt out without doing ANY of the removal steps...broke the timing cover... sheesh. I've got the wheel off and motor mount out (1994 Ford Escort 1.9 liter), etc but I ran into an issue here that I am disabled and trying to do this by myself, as I have no one to help. Of course without the belt and such, it turns the crankshaft. I have tried wedging everything I can find in there without buggering up the teeth, but trying to hold a length of metal and break loose a crankshaft pulley bolt... not so much. I LOVE the starter bump idea and can't believe I didn't think of that but again... in her infinite wisdom, she ran my battery down as well, so not sure I can get enough bump to get it out. I am indeed in a pickle and as this is in my front yard in the dirt and grass and I do not have access to an oxy/acetylene torch, or an impact etc... any ideas for me?
+Jonni Collins P.S. Yes a Ford is not a Toyota, but the basic premise is the same and it is also a 19 mm bolt set u p the same way... except sideways -_-
Great video, however when I went to take mine off on my 20r, it was already gone! Haha. So I'm mainly looking at this for re-torquing cause it's been some years since I did this on my 22r. Now I need a new bolt and woodruff... Thankfully the crank, and pulley keyways weren't damaged.
@raganriley Yes the front main seal is easy to replace. I would recommend that you pull the oil pump off though to replace the front main seal. it's easier to drive it in perfectly if the crankshaft isn't poking through. Oil pump is easy to take off once you have the crankshaft pulley out of the way. I once had one that was so stubborn I welded a 1/2 drive socket to the crankshaft pulley bolt. The heat from welding loosened it right up. :-)
Ive been working on Toyota engines for 40 years, The absolute best way to break the pulley bolt free is to heat it slightly with a heat gun and then use a breaker bar, after bolt is out spray penetrating oil in bolt hole and heat again to remove pulley, works every time.
@griffintready I actually just remove the entire oil pump body to replace the front main oil seal. It's a lot easier to remove the seal and to install it if the oil pump (in which the front main seal is located) if you're not having to work around the crankshaft sticking out through the middle of the seal.
Good timing on your comment. I'm working on a starter bump method video right now and yes, you have to make sure you have a solid interface with the bolt and the socket and the handle needs to be squared up. The method in this video is for when you don't have the ability to crank the engine over.
HEY MAN, just tried that first trick with to loosen the bolt by resting a breaker bar... Setting up on the bottom left as you've shown actually left to tightening. Setting the breaker bar on the top of the right side below the air filter is actually what loosened it up. -94 Toyota pickup, 22re
Are you talking about the bump-start method? It actually doesn't matter where you set the breaker bar as long as it (and the crankshaft pulley bolt) can't move when the engine turns over. The 22R series engine spins clockwise as you face it so holding the crankshaft bolt still in any position with a breaker bar while you turn the engine over will effectively unscrew the bolt. (If you're facing the engine and it's spinning clockwise, the (held stationary) crankshaft pulley bolt is effectively being turned counter-clockwise or lefty-loosey.) Here's a video of mine with actual footage of the bump-start/breaker bar method: th-cam.com/video/kkeDnSeCEoE/w-d-xo.html
I have a universal steering wheel and pulley puller set that has a generic 3 slot plate and a bunch of different bolts. I got it at harbor freight years ago. Any universal puller set should have the right bolts for you, it's a common size (8x1.25) I believe. You do have to unbolt the outer pulley (if equipped) to gain access to the threaded holes in the crankshaft pulley and that's what you use to secure the puller plate for your center screw to push against.
If your not pulling the head but already have the valve cover off, i have always stuck a long 3/8's extenstion through the holes in the timing chain cam gear and used a long ass breaker bar... always worked for me
I used an impact and a few seconds. It has to be a strong impact. I used the street legal thundergun. It took it off quick, whereas with a breaker bar and a 24mm wrench as a cheater I was bending the engine stand it was on.
I did a lot of reading before trying the 'scary' starter bump method. Bungeed the breaker bar to the passenger side frame member, disconnected the coil wire, and just Barely tapped the starter. The bolt broke loose with a pop, no damage to anything (including the tools). Just enough to break the torque. Thinking of making a crank holder tool by welding up an old air conditioner pulley to about 14" of 3/4" round stock. I'll bolt it to the balancer with 4- grade 8 bolts.
@WheeliePete Thanks Pete, but as I mentioned it is an automatic (torque plate not flywheel) so I can't use the high gear/brake method to hold the crank fixed. Not sure what to do. Might have to rent/borrow/buy/fab a pulley holding tool?
I once had one that was so stuck I cracked an impact socket trying to get the bolt off. I ended up welding the socket to the bolt head and then it came right out. The heat from the weld loosened up the bolt. Had to get a new bolt of course...
Do you have the outer pulley (crankshaft pulley no.2) that bolts to the existing crankshaft pulley? I am looking everywhere as am converting to PS and that's the only piece am missing.
Many years ago before we had the internet I was stuck trying to remove the bolt from a Honda Prelude. I could not use the starter method because the motor was reverse rotation. After several days of trying I finally removed the oil pan and jammed a 2x4 in to hold the crank still and broke it loose with a super long bar. Back then I did not even think of using heat but that probably would have worked.
Use Clothesline in the cyl. to R & R the crank bolt. Get the piston to just below TDC and put the clothesline in the cyl.. You can also torque the bolt.
Generally you're doing this in the vehicle and it can be difficult to get a BIG impact gun in there if the radiator is in. Heat will work as long as you don't catch oil on fire (you're usually going into the front end to fix a leaky main seal. You'll also need someone to stand on the brake in 4hi 5th gear to keep from back rolling the engine even with the impact. It's not a quesiton of 115 ftlbs, it's 25+ years of time to sieze up...
@aznazguy Put it in 5th gear 4hi and have someone stand on the brake. It's only 110 ftlbs spec I think. I've never had a problem getting them torqued back on.
Is like to add another "Ask me how I know"! ALWAYS use a 6-point socket to break a stubborn fastener free! My old man had a slick trick he used, thread a length of cotton rope into a cylinder at BDC (start of compression, valves closed) leaving a manageable bit hanging out. Then turn the bolt until it is compressed by the piston. Break it free and pull out the rope.
@aznazguy Oops, I missed the automatic part. I've been able to hold the sytem with a simple pulley holding tool that consisted of an automotive belt that secures to a bar. I got one at harbor freight pretty cheap. Another way to do it would be to pull the starter and jame a pry-bar into the flywheel teeth. Another way would be to pull a spark plug and insert a long coil of small rope and then bring the piston up agaist it until it jams. (I do NOT like that method though.)
Man I just went through this on a 22R I had pulled. I bought a SnapOn impact that didn't work. I tried bolting the starter to it to crank it with the motor on the ground, nope. I ran the starter off 24 volts with two batteries but no dice. Finally took a piece of perforated sheet metal "stereo strap" material, and bolted the torque plate (automatic) to the block and a breaker got it off with relative ease. Now how to torque it with the motor in place?
Why not use heat w/out welding bolt head to socket.? I'm just getting ready to do head gasket on my truck and looking for some time saving tips. I've got an impact that will twist wheels studs off.( I think 750 lbs) Hard to imagine that would not be enough. It's only supposed to be 115 lbs. right?
My Camry (a 2000) has no distrbutor. To do the bump start method, a better way to prevent the engine from starting is to disconnect the crankshaft position sensor located just under the alternator. I will avoid the drift method as there is a chance of "dinging up" the dust shield (ask him how he knows). I may try a combination of penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench), a firm tap and heat just before I try a breaker bar and strap wrench.
The 5th gear/hard brake method only works if your clutch and pressure plate are in VERY good shape. Other wise, you'll just just slip the clutch on the flywheel.
Hi. My daughter has a 1993 2wd Hilux cab chassis with 2.8 diesel 3L motor. I'm replacing the water pump but cant get the bottom pulley off to remove the timing belt cover so that I can get to the water pump. I have the radiator out and all the belts off already. How do I remove the bottom pulley off so that I can remove the timing belt cover? Cheers
@1tonyota I once dinged up the dust shield for the crankshaft pulley (removing it) when I did a timing chain install. I got the whole job done, fired up the truck and the metal on metal sound was just terrifying. thought I had screwed something up bad under the timing cover. As I started to take the front end off again I noticed there was a slight grind mark on the oil pump body where the dinged up dust shield had hit it on every revolution. It was louder than hell and scary as %*$&#.
@WheeliePete Something like this always happens to me.. I either hurt a finger or sprain a muscle or get a cold *just* as I'm getting ready to do something
I have a 90 Toyota Pickup with the 22R and I have the famous oil leak where the head meets the timing cover so torn it down today and guess what? Can't get the Crank bolt out. The motor is still in the truck. I tried driving the 5/16 punch in and I bent it and the bolt wouldn't give. I even tried the bump start deal and the bolt still wouldn't break so I'm lost.
Looks like you can get them from carparts.com for around $40. (I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just googled it.). www.carparts.com/details/Toyota/Pickup/Replacement/Harmonic_Balancer/1993/REPT312304.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw-e2EBhAhEiwAJI5jgxBORu_UCppqo2Yk1OA3Ej2DahvXm-5FCR1KEt5VVZvUrNlBR2q2PRoCMWMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Yeah, I'm not a huge fan of the starter bump method. that's a pretty massive bolt in the 22R series to shear off though. Good point though. I can't imagine what a pain in the ass it must have been to get that broken one out of there.
This has little to do with your Video but I have 1986 Truck with 22R that has a mystery problem. When I start it up, the exhaust has black liquid coming out of the tailpipe. After warm it seems to go away. Any idea. I’m asking this question because you said you have worked on a lot of these engines.
If the liquid is the consistency of water it is most likely just condensation in the exhaust piping mixing with the black carbon soot in the piping and then being blown out the back when you turn on the engine. Once the exhaust system warms up the condensation in the pipes evaporates and doesn't drip any more.
WheeliePeete, Hi if you get a harmonic balancer tool with a square end. Next you get 2 long hardened bolts that fit into your harmonic balancer. Remove the center bolt and replace with an extension. that fits into the 19mm socket. The next tool that you will need is a long adjustable wrench which you will put on the square end of the harmonic balancer tool. Use the wrench to hold it on something that is not going to move or break, and then that will immobilize the crankshaft. With a breaker bar you should be able to remove it. Honda actually has a special tool that you use to hold it with a breaker bar that works on the same principal. How do I know, well I have done it many times removing and installing the crankshaft pulley. If I buy a Chinese harmonic balancer with no bolt holes, then I usually remove the dust cover on the transmission and use a hardened screwdriver to immobilize the flywheel. You may not agree, but it works for me.
***** There is a specific tool for the Toyota 22R series engine crankshaft pulley remover, but almost nobody ever has it, so this was just a video on an alternate way to break it loose without special tools. I'm not a fan of jamming the starter gear teeth on the flywheel because it's just to easy to break them off and then you have a worse problem to deal with.
The gods of any project require a blood sacrifice and I'm building a fence so of cousre I stepped on a nice big ol' nail. Earned me a trip to urgent care, but at least the construction gods are appeased.
I tried to bump start !! not working. went to a mechanic for their most powerful impact gun. Not working. Prior to that I tried with my hand after holding the pulley with a bar and using a ratchet to try to remove. I broke both of my ratchet( their spinning only now). Tried my feet my hand with all the strength i have it did not move. I even tried to force it with a hydraulic jack too (got my ratchet broken). Today I bought a breaker bar and the 21mm that fits on. I bump started multiple time and It broke the 21mm piece I bought. What do you think I should do at this point??
So there's actually a tool designed for holding that pulley still. Looks like this (you stick a big pipe on it and jam it to the ground or frame: www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-Toyota-Crankshaft-Crank-Harmonic-Damper-Pulley-Holding-Holder-Tool-/262410532152 If you have a welder you can fab up a similar tool. Search for 22R crankshaft pulley holder and you should find some good homebrew designs. If you don't have the welder and want to try a last ditch effort...heat the pulley bolt with a propane torch. The toughest one I ever ran across did like yours and broke my impact socket (cracked it) I got pissed cut the socket down past the cracked end and then took a mig welder and welded the socket onto the end of the crankshaft pulley bolt (really hot setting on the mig). Then when I went to put the wrench on the bolt, it practically came off with finger strength. The heat from the welding busted loose the jammed threads. You might be able to get it to come out by heating the bolt up with the propane torch. Obviously....be super careful running a torch around the bottom of the engine, oil, grease, etc. all flammable. Keep an extinguisher handy.
Obviously, after I welded the socket on I had to get a new crankshaft pulley bolt...but the old one with the socket on it makes a nice conversation piece!
Hey I know this is an old video, but I have tried literally everything from the bump method, blocking the pulley and using a breaker, using a 1,400 ft lb torque wrench, heat up the bolt and did every one of these things again and the bolt.. will not.. come off. I really hope you get back to me in my troubles.
Sounds like it is really stuck. At this point you are probably going to need to buy or make the actual tool that bolts onto the crankshaft pulley to hold it still, then heat it with a torch, and then go at it with a LONG breaker bar. Another alternate method is to pull a spark plug and then feed some cord into the cylinder and then bring that cylinder up towards TDC on the compression stroke. The cord will jam between the piston and the head and stop the engine from moving. Obviously not my first choice, but that will keep the engine from turning. You can also pull the oil pan off and jam something (like a hammer handle) between the crankshaft and block to keep the engine from turning. If the engine it out of the truck you can put a piece of chain between to the flywheel mounting bolts and the engine block to keep it from turning. I would use heat on the bolt head for all these methods...it sounds you you are REALLY seized on there. I had one that was suck so bad once I cracked a large socket. I got so pissed I broke out the mig welder and welded the socket to the head of the bolt. When I was done, the heat from the weld actually loosened up the bolt perfectly, it came right out with very little problem after that.
Make sure the truck is in 5th gear 4Hi and block the wheels, that way you'll get resistance against the engine out of the clutch also (you can also get someone to stand on the brake. But yeah, heating the bolt will usually help a lot in these super stuck crankshaft pulley bolts. If all that fails, the correct tool is a bar that bolts to the holes in the crankshaft pulley, goes across to the frame which immobilized the engine, then you get a LONG breaker bar and have at the bolt.
What are the chances of damaging something? I tried this one time, mine wouldn't budge. Could I break teeth on the flywheel or starter, or damage the starter or certain bearings? I don't want to try it again if my starter is slamming up against complete resistance, since nothing is breaking loose. I think the bolt has been in there 20 years and is seized up. Next I'm trying a 3/4 drive breaker bar and cheater bar with the pinched belt trick to hold the pulley.
Using the drift to jam the crankshaft pulley does come with the potential to damage the pulley or possibly the oil pump housing, but the only thing I've ever messed up with this method is the dust cover that's pressed onto the back of the pulley. I just pounded it back into shape after the pulley was off. Just pay attention to what you are jamming the drift against. With the starter bump method, the possibility is there to damage the starter or the flywheel, but honestly, it's pretty low risk on this engine. The flywheel is pretty robust and the starters are cheap and plentiful. That being said, if the bolt is really frozen on there your you're going to probably need to use heat and get that bolt warmed up and then go after it. Another way to lock down the engine is to pull a spark plug and then feed a coil of rope into the cylinder and then bring the piston up until it jams the rope between the piston and the head, thus jamming the crank. Just make sure you're doing this in the compression stroke cycle so the valves are closed.
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I have seen numerous ways of doing this in TH-cam. Including using the starter, which i am reluctant to do. But this method seems to be the way it is supposed to be done. Thanks for uploading this. Glad i found this video!
You're a bloody legend mate. Couldn't budge my 22r pulley bolt until I learned your trick with the drift. I still had to put a 4 foot bar over my breaker bar but it came off eventually.
Thanks mate.
After 10 years.. the front main seal is starting to leak.. l already seen the seal video.. thanks brotha... excellent videos..
i just used your technic about 30 minutes ago n it worked . i can't thank u enough man, lucky 4 me the pulley was easily removed
Thanks, one step ahead of you. Meant to post back last night that I finally got it out. I heated the heck out of it and I used a powerful jumper box hooked to the batt to give it some extra power when I bumped the starter over and the bolt broke loose. Thanks for this video by the way.
Thank you! I struggled for the better part of an afternoon and broke my 19mm socket followed by my 2ft breaker bar. I was desperate, thank the Toyota God's the drift method worked when all else failed. Again, thank you!
You have a great, warm, delivery demeanour, makes it easy to listen to. Some people are plain hard on the senses. The assortment of methods is useful - otherwise I have to buy a special toblerone-shaped thing with a slot up towards one apex, and teeth in it about 4, occupying the flat opposite this apex. I have never bought the same car twice (keep them too long) so it's not just the irritating cost, it's the ordering-in time and waiting for the thing, and every cambelt kit says these toblerone bits are optional - way bad since I only find that out now I got the wife's Renault in bits...!
Sound like very great methods. I will have to try a few today. I have a Cressida with a very stubborn bolt. Thanks for the video
I finally got mine. On a Toyota with a 22 mm bolt. To get friction on the pulley, I tried different ways to bend the drive belt over itself, which was extra challenging because it is a short belt that doesn't serpentine. Even tried a long belt off a different vehicle but it was wider so it didn't grab the pulley grooves correctly. Finally, after experimenting with different ways to anchor the belt, I used 2 socket extensions to hold the end loops of the belt and had enough slack to fold the belt under itself on the crank pulley. It broke loose immediately with my 3/4 drive breaker bar and about 4 ft or so of leverage from my floor jack handle. Amazing how that rubber belt wedges itself and locks the pulley down solid.
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Thank You for taking your time and making this video. I do have a 22re inside a 85 Celica so this is great !
OMG!!, I can't believe you're suggesting that 'starter bump' method without warning viewers there is a very real possibility that the end of the bolt can shear off completely!.
That's exactly what happened to me with my Toyota 2C-T engine, I was left with a stub sticking out of the end of thr crankshaft! Thankfully the stub was just long enough to grasp with a good pair of mole-grips, but it fought me all the way out for two days before I won with plenty of penetration fluid and some heat...
watched this video for a crank bolt on Toyora 2E engine, really didnt want to use the starter bump method, but decided to in the end, and definately helped loosen it up. and its off now, I dont have an impact/rattle gun so thanks
Awesome...! The drift method worked perfect and it did not damage my dust cover...thanks so much..!!
Got r' did. Used a 3/8 extension to lock keep the pulley from moving. After I quit bending screw drivers, and used the extension the bolt came out pretty easy. My battery didn't have enough juice for the starter trick, and my impact driver was too big to fit in front of the engine. Thanks a lot WheeliePete! Oh yeah, I drove almost 2,000 miles with a broken chain guide, and my bolts that hold the guide against the block were shaven down quite a bit. Tomorrow I have to figure out how to get one of them out.
what i found to use an impact driver on that bolt because theres not enough room because of the cross bar.
with rad out just get a bi metal hole saw and drill thur the cross member and a long extension on the impact gun ... you wont see the hole once its reassembled.... i want to say i drilled an inch dia hole.
but no... both my electric and air impact wrench never budged it
All super info. thankyou all. stocking up my brain and expecting the worst. surprised no mention of taking off the oil pan and putting a hammer handle between the connecting rod journal and the block.
Torque wrench with 19mm on the pulley bolt. Bungee under frame worked first try. Small bang then success!
Coil disconnected. Thanks WP.
I want to say thank you Pete!
I bought an expensive 20v Lithium Impact gun for this job and many others. Long story short, the gun had 0 effect on that bolt, lol! (~350ft-lbs tq) So I had recalled your video, and was saved by a Dodge exhaust stud with the nut still on. (I miss you Shelby Daytona!) Using torch heat and your jam method, it's off now, with only slight bending of the dust cover. Now moving on to removing the VC and timing cover, carefully.
That is a lot of nice tips. I have seriously tight pulley bolt on my mobile home. Thanks for these tips.
Great idea! I employed the breaker bar method and bumped the starter. One second and I was done.
I went to school for auto mechanics and never would have thought up this idea.
Thank you so much.
Dave
I like the chain method to hold the pulley in place; a bit hard to do with the engine out though, no anchor point - nice video... cheers!
Ahh, good deal. Amazing how expanding the metal with some heat can give it just the little bit it needs to finally break loose.
Great video! Very straight forward and informative! Good video &pics also. Thank you for that!!!
Thank you for the video. It word great. I would suggest try using a flat peace of metal to stick through the pulley. I used one that was one inch wide by 1/8 inch thick. I did not have any damage to the dust cover, even though I had to use a 1/2inch breaker bar with another 2 foot long cheater bar to get it to turn.
Great video man. Good explanation on all the methods. Helped a lot :)
THANKS for this video!! Couldn't get that F'n thing to budge. Got it... using your 3/8 extension method. Never considered doing it that way. Thanks again!
92 Toyota Pickup 4 cyl.. Harmonic Balancer bolt Hell.. First used a pipe wrench to hold the pulley in place, and used a 19mm socket, breaker bar, and ratchet. Both bent the pulley and rounded the bolt. then tried the bump start method with the pipe wrench on the now rounded off bolt, along with bump starting... 19mm bolt is now about a 16mm now after about five attempts. pulled the first pulley off and discovered the inside pulley is forged, so used a 30lbs pipe to beat the pulley into pieces around said bolt, using an angle grinder, sliced a groove in bolt and said pipe and a sledge hammer on just the leading edge of the cut to literally bang the bolt off.
RIP:
2 ratchets
5 sockets
4 knuckles
15 ml blood
3 toes (pipe landed on my foot)
2 pulleys
1 bolt
Result: Success.
Flauros Dagon wtf
Oh my
2005 Chevy Colt 2.2 timing chain removel
Do you know what the size is for that puller ?
Howdy, appreciate the video; found it while searching for a solution to my problem which is... yeah. Anyway my daughter tore up my car and apparently the timing belt ripped in half underneath. The child decided to pull the belt out without doing ANY of the removal steps...broke the timing cover... sheesh. I've got the wheel off and motor mount out (1994 Ford Escort 1.9 liter), etc but I ran into an issue here that I am disabled and trying to do this by myself, as I have no one to help. Of course without the belt and such, it turns the crankshaft. I have tried wedging everything I can find in there without buggering up the teeth, but trying to hold a length of metal and break loose a crankshaft pulley bolt... not so much. I LOVE the starter bump idea and can't believe I didn't think of that but again... in her infinite wisdom, she ran my battery down as well, so not sure I can get enough bump to get it out. I am indeed in a pickle and as this is in my front yard in the dirt and grass and I do not have access to an oxy/acetylene torch, or an impact etc... any ideas for me?
+Jonni Collins P.S. Yes a Ford is not a Toyota, but the basic premise is the same and it is also a 19 mm bolt set u p the same way... except sideways -_-
Thanks for the tips and tricks. Doing a timing job.
Thank you!!
Very helpful bro.
Very great and best video tips for me to this time...Thanks Very much
Great video, however when I went to take mine off on my 20r, it was already gone! Haha. So I'm mainly looking at this for re-torquing cause it's been some years since I did this on my 22r. Now I need a new bolt and woodruff... Thankfully the crank, and pulley keyways weren't damaged.
@raganriley Yes the front main seal is easy to replace. I would recommend that you pull the oil pump off though to replace the front main seal. it's easier to drive it in perfectly if the crankshaft isn't poking through. Oil pump is easy to take off once you have the crankshaft pulley out of the way. I once had one that was so stubborn I welded a 1/2 drive socket to the crankshaft pulley bolt. The heat from welding loosened it right up. :-)
Ive been working on Toyota engines for 40 years, The absolute best way to break the pulley bolt
free is to heat it slightly with a heat gun and then use a breaker bar, after bolt is out spray penetrating oil in
bolt hole and heat again to remove pulley, works every time.
Very detailed videos.
Thanks!
Thank you sir 🙏. This help alot. Really appreciate it..
THANKS FOR THE GREAT TIPS.
@griffintready I actually just remove the entire oil pump body to replace the front main oil seal. It's a lot easier to remove the seal and to install it if the oil pump (in which the front main seal is located) if you're not having to work around the crankshaft sticking out through the middle of the seal.
nice job welding the bolt to the socket
Great vid brother!
Excellent Warming !
VERY GOOD VIDEO, WELL INSTRUCTIONS THANK YOU SO MUCH. MUY BUEN VIDEO FANTASTICAS INSTRUCCIONES MUCHAS GRACIAS DE PARTE DE JOSELO
If you use the starter bump technique make absolutely certain that the breaker handle is square with the socket.
Good timing on your comment. I'm working on a starter bump method video right now and yes, you have to make sure you have a solid interface with the bolt and the socket and the handle needs to be squared up. The method in this video is for when you don't have the ability to crank the engine over.
That's Awesome, thanks mate
HEY MAN, just tried that first trick with to loosen the bolt by resting a breaker bar...
Setting up on the bottom left as you've shown actually left to tightening. Setting the breaker bar on the top of the right side below the air filter is actually what loosened it up.
-94 Toyota pickup, 22re
Are you talking about the bump-start method? It actually doesn't matter where you set the breaker bar as long as it (and the crankshaft pulley bolt) can't move when the engine turns over. The 22R series engine spins clockwise as you face it so holding the crankshaft bolt still in any position with a breaker bar while you turn the engine over will effectively unscrew the bolt. (If you're facing the engine and it's spinning clockwise, the (held stationary) crankshaft pulley bolt is effectively being turned counter-clockwise or lefty-loosey.) Here's a video of mine with actual footage of the bump-start/breaker bar method: th-cam.com/video/kkeDnSeCEoE/w-d-xo.html
I have a universal steering wheel and pulley puller set that has a generic 3 slot plate and a bunch of different bolts. I got it at harbor freight years ago. Any universal puller set should have the right bolts for you, it's a common size (8x1.25) I believe. You do have to unbolt the outer pulley (if equipped) to gain access to the threaded holes in the crankshaft pulley and that's what you use to secure the puller plate for your center screw to push against.
WheeliePete
Yes! My 2004 Optima crankshaft pulley bolts are 8M x 1.25
Thanks Pete nice video
If your not pulling the head but already have the valve cover off, i have always stuck a long 3/8's extenstion through the holes in the timing chain cam gear and used a long ass breaker bar... always worked for me
Breaker Bar - !!! Crank the motor. Mechanic!!!!! LOve You. A Miracle. --Thank You---
Yep, that works too. Video on that method here: th-cam.com/video/kkeDnSeCEoE/w-d-xo.html
I used an impact and a few seconds. It has to be a strong impact. I used the street legal thundergun. It took it off quick, whereas with a breaker bar and a 24mm wrench as a cheater I was bending the engine stand it was on.
I did a lot of reading before trying the 'scary' starter bump method. Bungeed the breaker bar to the passenger side frame member, disconnected the coil wire, and just Barely tapped the starter. The bolt broke loose with a pop, no damage to anything (including the tools). Just enough to break the torque. Thinking of making a crank holder tool by welding up an old air conditioner pulley to about 14" of 3/4" round stock. I'll bolt it to the balancer with 4- grade 8 bolts.
great video
That POS bolt is absolutely kicking my ass right now.
@WheeliePete Thanks Pete, but as I mentioned it is an automatic (torque plate not flywheel) so I can't use the high gear/brake method to hold the crank fixed.
Not sure what to do. Might have to rent/borrow/buy/fab a pulley holding tool?
Good video
Is there a fuse for the fuel pump that can be pulled, along with the coil wire? It's getting a little wet in here.
Heat from a torch if u got one is sorta the same as the last one good tricks thanks
I once had one that was so stuck I cracked an impact socket trying to get the bolt off. I ended up welding the socket to the bolt head and then it came right out. The heat from the weld loosened up the bolt. Had to get a new bolt of course...
Great video any tips for removing the crankshaft pulley bolt on an automatic Transmission ?
Do you have the outer pulley (crankshaft pulley no.2) that bolts to the existing crankshaft pulley? I am looking everywhere as am converting to PS and that's the only piece am missing.
Many years ago before we had the internet I was stuck trying to remove the bolt from a Honda Prelude. I could not use the starter method because the motor was reverse rotation. After several days of trying I finally removed the oil pan and jammed a 2x4 in to hold the crank still and broke it loose with a super long bar. Back then I did not even think of using heat but that probably would have worked.
nice video thanks !
Use Clothesline in the cyl. to R & R the crank bolt. Get the piston to just below TDC and put the clothesline in the cyl.. You can also torque the bolt.
Generally you're doing this in the vehicle and it can be difficult to get a BIG impact gun in there if the radiator is in. Heat will work as long as you don't catch oil on fire (you're usually going into the front end to fix a leaky main seal. You'll also need someone to stand on the brake in 4hi 5th gear to keep from back rolling the engine even with the impact. It's not a quesiton of 115 ftlbs, it's 25+ years of time to sieze up...
@aznazguy Put it in 5th gear 4hi and have someone stand on the brake. It's only 110 ftlbs spec I think. I've never had a problem getting them torqued back on.
cant wait to try this to change my crank pulley
nice welds lol
Is like to add another "Ask me how I know"! ALWAYS use a 6-point socket to break a stubborn fastener free! My old man had a slick trick he used, thread a length of cotton rope into a cylinder at BDC (start of compression, valves closed) leaving a manageable bit hanging out. Then turn the bolt until it is compressed by the piston. Break it free and pull out the rope.
@aznazguy Oops, I missed the automatic part. I've been able to hold the sytem with a simple pulley holding tool that consisted of an automotive belt that secures to a bar. I got one at harbor freight pretty cheap. Another way to do it would be to pull the starter and jame a pry-bar into the flywheel teeth. Another way would be to pull a spark plug and insert a long coil of small rope and then bring the piston up agaist it until it jams. (I do NOT like that method though.)
Hey, do you remeber the name of that strap wrench (where you got it maybe or, better yet a link)
Yes the front pulley is bolted to the other two.
I have a 95 Tacoma 2.4 I need help replacing the motor mounts & trans mount please help, searched all around no VIDs ons this problem
Man I just went through this on a 22R I had pulled. I bought a SnapOn impact that didn't work. I tried bolting the starter to it to crank it with the motor on the ground, nope. I ran the starter off 24 volts with two batteries but no dice.
Finally took a piece of perforated sheet metal "stereo strap" material, and bolted the torque plate (automatic) to the block and a breaker got it off with relative ease.
Now how to torque it with the motor in place?
Why not use heat w/out welding bolt head to socket.? I'm just getting ready to do head gasket on my truck and looking for some time saving tips. I've got an impact that will twist wheels studs off.( I think 750 lbs) Hard to imagine that would not be enough. It's only supposed to be 115 lbs. right?
cool video gracias bro
My Camry (a 2000) has no distrbutor. To do the bump start method, a better way to prevent the engine from starting is to disconnect the crankshaft position sensor located just under the alternator.
I will avoid the drift method as there is a chance of "dinging up" the dust shield (ask him how he knows). I may try a combination of penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench), a firm tap and heat just before I try a breaker bar and strap wrench.
thanks man :)
The 5th gear/hard brake method only works if your clutch and pressure plate are in VERY good shape. Other wise, you'll just just slip the clutch on the flywheel.
Hi. My daughter has a 1993 2wd Hilux cab chassis with 2.8 diesel 3L motor. I'm replacing the water pump but cant get the bottom pulley off to remove the timing belt cover so that I can get to the water pump. I have the radiator out and all the belts off already. How do I remove the bottom pulley off so that I can remove the timing belt cover? Cheers
A little heat goes along ways!!!
that is good to know how can i teel what transmission i have in my toyota?
@1tonyota I once dinged up the dust shield for the crankshaft pulley (removing it) when I did a timing chain install. I got the whole job done, fired up the truck and the metal on metal sound was just terrifying. thought I had screwed something up bad under the timing cover. As I started to take the front end off again I noticed there was a slight grind mark on the oil pump body where the dinged up dust shield had hit it on every revolution. It was louder than hell and scary as %*$&#.
Whats the name of the first tool that you use to hold the pulley?
@WheeliePete Something like this always happens to me.. I either hurt a finger or sprain a muscle or get a cold *just* as I'm getting ready to do something
@1tonyota hahaha, man I didn't even pick up on that...I put a nail through my foot today so I'm still a little loopy on pain meds. lol...
I have a 90 Toyota Pickup with the 22R and I have the famous oil leak where the head meets the timing cover so torn it down today and guess what? Can't get the Crank bolt out. The motor is still in the truck. I tried driving the 5/16 punch in and I bent it and the bolt wouldn't give. I even tried the bump start deal and the bolt still wouldn't break so I'm lost.
Hey I have a 1993 Toyota pickup and would like to know where you can get a new Harmonic balancer?
Looks like you can get them from carparts.com for around $40. (I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just googled it.). www.carparts.com/details/Toyota/Pickup/Replacement/Harmonic_Balancer/1993/REPT312304.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw-e2EBhAhEiwAJI5jgxBORu_UCppqo2Yk1OA3Ej2DahvXm-5FCR1KEt5VVZvUrNlBR2q2PRoCMWMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I just bent the dust shield back into position and no more noise. Sure freaked me out though when I fired that truck and it made that awful noise...
were can I find the torque for all the bolts
Tks good video
XT n gs
Yeah, I'm not a huge fan of the starter bump method. that's a pretty massive bolt in the 22R series to shear off though. Good point though. I can't imagine what a pain in the ass it must have been to get that broken one out of there.
This has little to do with your Video but I have 1986 Truck with 22R that has a mystery problem. When I start it up, the exhaust has black liquid coming out of the tailpipe. After warm it seems to go away. Any idea. I’m asking this question because you said you have worked on a lot of these engines.
If the liquid is the consistency of water it is most likely just condensation in the exhaust piping mixing with the black carbon soot in the piping and then being blown out the back when you turn on the engine. Once the exhaust system warms up the condensation in the pipes evaporates and doesn't drip any more.
WheeliePeete, Hi if you get a harmonic balancer tool with a square end. Next you get 2 long hardened bolts that fit into your harmonic balancer. Remove the center bolt and replace with an extension. that fits into the 19mm socket. The next tool that you will need is a long adjustable wrench which you will put on the square end of the harmonic balancer tool. Use the wrench to hold it on something that is not going to move or break, and then that will immobilize the crankshaft. With a breaker bar you should be able to remove it. Honda actually has a special tool that you use to hold it with a breaker bar that works on the same principal. How do I know, well I have done it many times removing and installing the crankshaft pulley. If I buy a Chinese harmonic balancer with no bolt holes, then I usually remove the dust cover on the transmission and use a hardened screwdriver to immobilize the flywheel. You may not agree, but it works for me.
***** There is a specific tool for the Toyota 22R series engine crankshaft pulley remover, but almost nobody ever has it, so this was just a video on an alternate way to break it loose without special tools. I'm not a fan of jamming the starter gear teeth on the flywheel because it's just to easy to break them off and then you have a worse problem to deal with.
The gods of any project require a blood sacrifice and I'm building a fence so of cousre I stepped on a nice big ol' nail. Earned me a trip to urgent care, but at least the construction gods are appeased.
I tried to bump start !! not working. went to a mechanic for their most powerful impact gun. Not working. Prior to that I tried with my hand after holding the pulley with a bar and using a ratchet to try to remove. I broke both of my ratchet( their spinning only now). Tried my feet my hand with all the strength i have it did not move. I even tried to force it with a hydraulic jack too (got my ratchet broken). Today I bought a breaker bar and the 21mm that fits on. I bump started multiple time and It broke the 21mm piece I bought. What do you think I should do at this point??
So there's actually a tool designed for holding that pulley still. Looks like this (you stick a big pipe on it and jam it to the ground or frame: www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-Toyota-Crankshaft-Crank-Harmonic-Damper-Pulley-Holding-Holder-Tool-/262410532152
If you have a welder you can fab up a similar tool. Search for 22R crankshaft pulley holder and you should find some good homebrew designs.
If you don't have the welder and want to try a last ditch effort...heat the pulley bolt with a propane torch. The toughest one I ever ran across did like yours and broke my impact socket (cracked it) I got pissed cut the socket down past the cracked end and then took a mig welder and welded the socket onto the end of the crankshaft pulley bolt (really hot setting on the mig). Then when I went to put the wrench on the bolt, it practically came off with finger strength. The heat from the welding busted loose the jammed threads. You might be able to get it to come out by heating the bolt up with the propane torch. Obviously....be super careful running a torch around the bottom of the engine, oil, grease, etc. all flammable. Keep an extinguisher handy.
Obviously, after I welded the socket on I had to get a new crankshaft pulley bolt...but the old one with the socket on it makes a nice conversation piece!
thank for the reply !! will try the torch method
Used transmission oil is your best friend it shields metal, apply on every bolt and your life will be easier
@WheeliePete true,many ways to skin a cat lo.
Hey I know this is an old video, but I have tried literally everything from the bump method, blocking the pulley and using a breaker, using a 1,400 ft lb torque wrench, heat up the bolt and did every one of these things again and the bolt.. will not.. come off. I really hope you get back to me in my troubles.
Sounds like it is really stuck. At this point you are probably going to need to buy or make the actual tool that bolts onto the crankshaft pulley to hold it still, then heat it with a torch, and then go at it with a LONG breaker bar. Another alternate method is to pull a spark plug and then feed some cord into the cylinder and then bring that cylinder up towards TDC on the compression stroke. The cord will jam between the piston and the head and stop the engine from moving. Obviously not my first choice, but that will keep the engine from turning. You can also pull the oil pan off and jam something (like a hammer handle) between the crankshaft and block to keep the engine from turning. If the engine it out of the truck you can put a piece of chain between to the flywheel mounting bolts and the engine block to keep it from turning. I would use heat on the bolt head for all these methods...it sounds you you are REALLY seized on there. I had one that was suck so bad once I cracked a large socket. I got so pissed I broke out the mig welder and welded the socket to the head of the bolt. When I was done, the heat from the weld actually loosened up the bolt perfectly, it came right out with very little problem after that.
DeWalt dcf900 and a weighted socket will take care of this no problem
I have the 1994 22RE Engine . How many foot pounds to I need to tighten my flywheel pulley nut. ? eg: 118 lb ? or ? im not sure
Torque Spec on a 1994 22RE crankshaft pulley bolt is 116 ft-lb (or 157 N-m).
Make sure the truck is in 5th gear 4Hi and block the wheels, that way you'll get resistance against the engine out of the clutch also (you can also get someone to stand on the brake. But yeah, heating the bolt will usually help a lot in these super stuck crankshaft pulley bolts. If all that fails, the correct tool is a bar that bolts to the holes in the crankshaft pulley, goes across to the frame which immobilized the engine, then you get a LONG breaker bar and have at the bolt.
What are the chances of damaging something? I tried this one time, mine wouldn't budge. Could I break teeth on the flywheel or starter, or damage the starter or certain bearings? I don't want to try it again if my starter is slamming up against complete resistance, since nothing is breaking loose. I think the bolt has been in there 20 years and is seized up. Next I'm trying a 3/4 drive breaker bar and cheater bar with the pinched belt trick to hold the pulley.
Using the drift to jam the crankshaft pulley does come with the potential to damage the pulley or possibly the oil pump housing, but the only thing I've ever messed up with this method is the dust cover that's pressed onto the back of the pulley. I just pounded it back into shape after the pulley was off. Just pay attention to what you are jamming the drift against. With the starter bump method, the possibility is there to damage the starter or the flywheel, but honestly, it's pretty low risk on this engine. The flywheel is pretty robust and the starters are cheap and plentiful. That being said, if the bolt is really frozen on there your you're going to probably need to use heat and get that bolt warmed up and then go after it. Another way to lock down the engine is to pull a spark plug and then feed a coil of rope into the cylinder and then bring the piston up until it jams the rope between the piston and the head, thus jamming the crank. Just make sure you're doing this in the compression stroke cycle so the valves are closed.