Fifty one years ago ,, as a seventeen year old, I had the experience of working on an XK 140 engine. I didn't know much at the time but I learned fast. It was very similar to the E type but not as evolved. The timing chains and tensioners had worn through the cover ! It was a mess. Your project has brought back fond memories.
Hello sir. What are differences between Etype engine and Xj series 2 engine? E type makes 255 --300 HP but Xj series 2 with similar 4.2 liter engine makes(Max) 155 --165 HP. I wanna buy an E type engine and use it to my dad's XJ 4.2 series ll 1977
I’m guessing those domed pistons are raising compression and notice the grind of the cam, probably much more aggressive than the XJ. Then add triple carbs and perhaps better flowing heads and exhaust, no pollution controls and you’ve added at least 100 hp
@@amirxj4077 chances are that the engines are mechanically very similar most of the difference will be in the carburation and exhaust! I don't know about us spec cars but the series 2 xj 4.2 was rated at 202 or there about!
I was so enjoying watching you rebuilding this amazing and Beautiful E Type engine that I have watched every instalment one after another.it was great way to spend an afternoon...thank you
Pretty! Nice work. Hope you got the correct assembly lube smeared around for the initial start up. Now we wait for some carbs, lube and fuel to hear the BROOM. :-)
Just finished watching this episode. And I made up mind to say it was now a work of art. Then I saw Trebor's comment. But it's true. You are really making me miss my old car. Thanks for all of the great videos.
This video is great. I'm 71 and did my 150 engine 48 years ago by reading the book. Wish I had this video then. Got most of it right...still have the car, and amazingly, the motor still runs great. Thanks so much.
I'd like to compliment you on a job well done and I'll leave the last word to my good lady: "I'd be more than happy to have that jewel of an engine take pride of place in our living room".
Can't help but know you r from Canada. The aye 's give you away. All the best from our slides from the north. Loved Ontario lovely province! My direct neighbor to my East, across the big Lake! Keep the videos coming!
You too, glorifying the humble potato. Wake up men of nuts n bolts! While Jaguar was using "dome nuts" on these engines, Mazda was already working on improving the Rotary Wankel engines you could fit into a suitcase!.
@@derekwilkinson7939 Mercedes Benz SL beats the E Type hands down in comfort, style and build quality. This is before the Datsun 240Z (Nissan Fairlady)comes round the corner!! The SL, mind you had the Bosch fuel injection, a novelty in the 50's and 60's.
Loving the quality of workmanship you're putting in. And the lathe work is fantastic and worrying - I haven't used one since High School! I can see where it could easily go wrong, nice warning.
Totally enjoying following your rebuild. I was in 'workshops' from a young age here in Cambridge, England (late 60's) and I recall blue hylomar was for water related parts, and we also had red hylomar for oil related parts to seal. I've never known it as anything else. We also cut our own gaskets for pretty much everything.
Thinking back 40 years, I remember polishing the cam covers on my old 3.8 S-type - the oil housing hose may have leaked like hell - but the cam covers and SU carbs always looked great!
Young man you are doing a fantastic job, my congratulations, just a tip from an old man, on those copper washers, if you can't find them new often you can heat them up with the touch, the copper often come back to his original shape, nice going , please keep us posted, I want to see more of it until see it running, from endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesús Torres.
Hi, to follow up on Ove's comment from Norway regarding the oil return hose at 15:36. Since Jag designed this with different size ODs, I believe the way you installed the hose, extra clamps & sealant will fail in time. On my '68 E Type I've done the following. At the oil sump tube put a I" hose on it that fits that tube correctly. Then the hose from the filter head goes over that 1" piece to correctly fill the larger ID of the hose from the oil filter. Now when you tighten the clamps there will be no bulge as shown in your assembly. Great looking cam covers. You're doing a great job, thanks
that sounds like it would be a better fit. i guess i should look back to see how it works. i see it called a return but sending filtered oil back to the pan doesn't see right. so i assume there is pressure on that line.
@@erniew5805 This is a by pass hose if and when the filter clogs up this hose would then return oil to the sump but under most conditions my thoughts are very little oil flows through this line. My tip of using two different sizes of hoses is to get a better sealing onto the smaller OD sump tube. The best solution would be to weld onto the sump a tube the same OD as the filter head tube.
@@2541968joey ok thanks for clearing that up for me. using the 480 psi hose is overkill then . using oil resistant hose of a lower psi rating might be easier to seal off as it wouldn't be as stiff. but replacing the tube would be the gold standard .
The torque setting for the valve cover nuts is 8 ft/lbs not 15. Brings back so many memories of rebuilding my engine a year ago. Great videos, thank you for uploading. (You may remember me / car parked next to you at 2018 Van Dusen white RHD FHC).
Ive only rebuilt mainly American engines, but its been very enjoyable learning the particulars of these grand old engines and watching this work of art go back together. Im well aware these engines take more care and knowledge in certain areas due to their complex and not always perfectly engineered nature, but when one is up and running in proper condition they look and sound oh so beautiful. I love my muscle car V-8's but these engines are a different animal - they have a look and sound thats so much fun to run the gears on, sadly ive only seen videos and only drove one once myself so feel ive really missed out.
Great video series and you do a great job producing them. Excellent work on the engine. I wasn't sure about the gold color at first, but after seeing it together, it's a piece of art. Thank you for sharing.
Do yourself a favor and replace the $5 oil pressure relief spring. These springs lose temper from heat and age and will prevent the newly rebuilt engine from establishing the correct oil pressure. I bought a restored coupe that had low oil pressure even though the engine was a fresh rebuild. When I examined the relief spring it was so week I could compress it completely between my fingers!
Beautiful engine! Nice to be working with your father on cars! Mine to was a crack mechanic. Yours at least shows you how to do things. Mine would never ever let see you d it anything except observe a master, hand him tools, go fetch tools, or run for parts. You r so lucky!
Thanks for posting detailed and high quality video, I am finding it very informative and useful as I am in the middle of rebuilding the engine from my '74 XJ6 4.2, my block should come back from the machine shop next week with +.020" overbore and then I can get busy reassembling. Not going to be a patch on yours mind, for a 'junk' engine yours is looking better than new now! Looking forward to seeing this start up.
Richard, I spray the gaskets days before with the high tac red spray a gasket. Mopar makes one, Gasket Sealant. Then 20 mins before assembly, spray lightly, let tack-up. Also, for badly pitted surfaces. Spray the metal, (mask off) let dry. I never have leaks on the XJS.
Yeah , when i was a kid i worked in a machine shop and the foreman told me be careful on the lathe. It said "that thing will kill you as fast as anything". That thing is beautiful and so very british!!!
Blue Hylomar well known in UK. Odd stuff to torque down maybe? Love your engine. Watch those fingers on the lathe! How many times would I have been ****** without the old man?
Malcom, thanks for watching, great to have you along. Oh man I would hate to do this on my own, sometimes I just fail at things. It weighs hard when something goes wrong for quite some time.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Bit late to the party... I've used Hylomar on aircraft engines, car engines, and bike engines. The amount of pressure it can handle is really down to where you use it. But suffice to say, if you have two nice flat surfaces it is a very effective sealant and I have used it successfully even without any gaskets on timing covers and similar in the past without issue. I wouldn't be crazy about using it in very hot or pressurized areas but it should be fine in the coolant system. I was wincing looking at you polishing the cap on the lathe - please use a stick or something in future and don't let your hands anywhere near a spinning chuck!
That is a real beautiful workmanship. You can be proud of it. Have fun driving the Jaguar, it's a classic. Best regards from Hans from Upper Austria. 🇦🇹
With all the complex parts, assembly and torquing, we now know why Jaguar overhaul is so very expensive. This series should be used for every mechanic school.
Use a black "sharpie" pen to fill in the "Jaguar" markings on the oil cap. You will like the results. Additionally begin your initial cranking over with the coil disconnected and look for oil pressure on the gauge to insure you have full lubrication. It also would not hurt to inject a squirt of Marvel Mystery Oil into each spark plug hole and crank over with them only finger tight at first.
Richard on the hose clamps, to really make them work effectively and seal, you need to put the hose clamp right up to the bulge in the hose created by the raised lip on the end of the nipple. Don't clamp on the raised portion but right behind it. That way it's pulling the hose down around the raised lip before going under the hose clamp. I hope that's understandable it's one of those things that can be hard to explain in writing but I could show you in 2 seconds. Good job so far I can't wait to hear it run.
Great work mate these can be such a pretty motor done up. Always love the gold accents. I have a 420g with about 3 motors collecting dust in the corner of my shop, this is inspiring me to do them justice and get stuck in. Keep up the fantastic work!
The bracket is part of the tensioner. it should have a pulley attached to it that acts like an automatic tensioner for the belt that goes around the harmonic balancer pulley and the water pump pulley. hope this helps. Great series!
I use my lathe to file, sand and polish everything round. Made a polishing head for the Bridgeport. Once, I slightly hit my knuckle on the jaw, that was smarts. I use paint mixing sticks from HomeDepot. Large and small. Hold sandpaper on stick against part. Your speed is a little fast, about half. My 2 pennies.
The spacer you mentioned that is for the bracket that hol the dyno. I had the same problem that it scratched the water pump housing ( but i had a aftermarked waterpump from SNG barrat- nothing from there fits) but I did have the same spacer that i had marked 3 year ago when I took it apart. I have a picture and it shows that the spacer are just slightly wider that the bracket it selv. But we have 2 different brackets...
I am proud to say I actually owned a 4.2 2+2 and like an idiot sold it, the one vehicle I owned in my lifetime and should never have sold. Owned it before any speed restrictions were brought in, in the UK so it was always a blast to run down the Motorway to blow the cobwebs off so to speak. Happy days. And just remembered I still have the original Tyre Pressure Guage inscribed Jaguar as supplied when the car was originally sold new.
Hey, thanks for the name, "hylomar". I was watching a different rebuild video where the engine was being assembled without gaskets. As I recall, hylomar was used in Rolls engines that were machined so carefully that gaskets were not needed or wanted, but to avoid any unsightly seepage, hylomar was sparingly used. I described the material, but couldn't remember the name, and didn't take the time to look in my "glue" box to find the tube. I only remembered the blue color, er colour.
Hi well seal is Brown & sticky, hylomar is blue sticky but different 😅 great videos thanks, just about to do the same to my 3.4 thanks John from the isle of wight GB
I recall getting a lift in a jag as a spotty kid. My dad always had junk cars that ran like crap. The contrast with the jag was so extreme. The cool shiny leather seat, the dash was beautiful patterned walnut. I couldnt hear or feel the engine. When he took off i was squashed up into the seat with the acceleration. Like being in a gentlemans club and being shot out of a cannon at the same time. I rememember seeing lots of new jags lined up dockside for export over the atlantic to the usa from liverpool. Sorry to see them go.
blue hylomar sealant was developed by Rolls Royce post WW2 to seal things up in the early days of the jet engine development. It's years ahead of silicon sealants and does not set. (will dissolve in your engine) not destroy it!
It used to say on the tube it was licensed from Rolls Royce (in 1970's~80's) No idea if there is anything there today? I didn't know it was post WWII, always thought it was in Spitfire engines and was non hardening so it could go through oil pump or any oil passage without damaging anything. Wasn't aware it would dissolve in engine oil
Just so you know, I am not being pedantic or some "knowit-all." Somewhere in at least one of these series I saw you mention a thing, a rather important thing. You took down an engine and said (I'm paraphrasing) "This cylinder has a ridge so we'll bore it out .020 over (or whatever dimension you said)." Small thing to note here, a ridge does not automatically mean bore it out. A ridge can be simple buildup and many times boring out a cylinder is not the answer to "fix the ridge." I am not certain if you corrected this already so ignore me if you did. I am enjoying the series so far, even if this is "older content now," I just found your channel.
Nice job look forward to watching your videos . I have restored a few Jags in the past . I did a semi restoration of an E type back in the 90's for the bodyshop I was working at , the guy was a tight arse and woudn't spend the money for new parts so had to make half the panels , had to make the rear half or the bonnet sides as I didn't want to see patches when you opened the bonnet , had to patch all around the panels I was given I was a nightmare .
For the smaller size hose barb, braze a tight fitting tube on the barb, split it if you have to and use bailing wire to twist/ clamp it in the middle while brazing. Clean/Sand to smooth condition. When the hose is over it it you will not notice the work.
Hylomar and Wellseal are both available in the UK and whilst they are both soft sealants they are totally different to look at and handle. Hylomar is blue as per you video and comes in tubes. Wellseal is brown and is like a tacky oil and comes in tins. I love Wellseal, I've never had a leak after using it, I can't say the same for Hylomar.
Jaguar used a special hose between the oil filter housing and the sump. If you measure you will find out that the outlet pipe on the oil filter housing and the sump inlet pipe are two different dimensions. If you use a regular hose with the same diameter on both ends, it will leak.
Hello Richard, just found your youtube site, amazing work not to mention the time it takes to also film what you are doing!!! I have always loved the XK140 AND especially the XK150 OTS. From what I gather, even though you buy what is supposed to be a great looking XK, you really never know what is underneath or the reliability of the drive train...all labor intensive and expensive with loads of surprises. Would it be fair to say that when you are looking at buying, it is best to have someone like yourself fly over for an inspection and/or just look at booking the car in with you for a complete restoration? All my best to you and your father. Michael
Lovely engine. Nice rebuild. I saw a comment on another rebuild video where the mechanic was not wearing gloves. The commenter said that bare handed work was "old style". I guess I am an "old style" mechanic. I started rebuilding engines in 1953. I wouldn't wear gloves like those if you paid me. I love the feel of the parts. It is like I can "taste" the metal with my fingers. I deliberately (is there another word?) fondle the engine and all of its parts. It isn't like I do things brutally and have damaged hands. It is more like a violinist coaxing notes from his instrument. You might want to try feeling the parts bare-handed. It might add a nice dimension to your enjoyment of your work. It is tempting to say you would do better work, but I don't think that is it, although I think you are missing many tiny details. You might find yourself smoothing edges more carefully, just so they feel better. I find it impossible to imagine where, how, and why you became convinced that wearing those airtight sweat retaining gloves was a good idea. Maybe my question is "what are you afraid of?" It is a matter of a deeper pleasure and connection to the soul of the machine. I wear gloves if there are toxic or corrosive chemicals involved, but as soon as that is done, the gloves come off. My hands want to be in the air, in the most direct contact possible, feeling the textures and temperatures and the finish. It is truly a sensual pleasure. Anyway, you are building a beautiful engine, and I will look up the older videos, and look forward to the next ones. Thanks for sharing. PS, just found episode 1, and you were removing the valve covers bare handed. Aha, maybe there is hope for you after all.
Wellseal (by Stag) is a brown liquid, developed for Rolls Royce, comes in a tube, but most decant into a jar and apply with a small brush. Used it for years and love it, Hylomar on the other hand I hate with a passion, nasty messy stuff, and as far as I'm concerned totally unnecessary on an engine, Wellseal will do it all, with a gasket, or without a gasket. Paper gaskets and good mating surfaces I only use grease, helps to swell the paper and create a tight joint.
@@RichardMichaelOwen it doesn't dry fully. Kind of goes from a 50w oil consistency to that of old dryed out grease. Never fully sets so allows you to remove parts easy and no risk of excess falling inside and blocking an oil way like silicone can.
To find TDC using a dial indicator, the best method is to use a degree wheel and measure the degrees away from TDC on both sides of it: First find a preliminary TDC and go to .050" or .100" piston drop on either side, mark the two on the degree wheel and then 'split the difference' on the wheel. THAT's the true TDC. This is another reason to use petroleum jelly on your bearing inserts. Using oil can allow as much as .001" play in the bearing, throwing off the dial indicator reading. If you did use oil, measure both of your 'drop marks' on the approach to TDC. For best accuracy, use PJ on assembly and the "split" method to find TDC accurate to the minute. None of this takes extra time or effort, just a different method that is more accurate. Petroleum jelly also keeps a greasy separation of the bearings from the journals until the engine can develop oil pressure on the first start up. Some guys will run the oil pump with a drill on engines with an OP drive shaft, like some older American V8's, but if you use PJ on assembly you don't have to.
It's a pleasure watching you work on this engine Richard. Your attention to detail is reassuring that there is somebody else in this world who loves to do a good job and have it look the best he can. I would have had those aluminum covers polished to a mirror shine and clear coated, but the finish you have is still fine. And I mean "fine" as in excellent. A matter of taste I suppose. You are doing the first thing any good technician does: *go to the service manual.* Nobody knows better than the guys who designed the engine.
If you had welded the oil holes in the cams, they would definitely take points off at Monterey 😀😀😀. Also, when fussing with those bolts on the front of the cams, I would have stuffed a rag below to catch anything that dropped. I notice that, as was custom of the time, the breather vents to atmosphere.😰
Hylomar (blue)was developed by Rolls Royce , weld-seal (brown) is a different product in the U.K. believe me I have used many tubes of these sealants . Lock wire should be in a “S” shape pulling the bolt clockwise , On the cam timing gear, the toothed camshaft adjuster is called a ‘’Vernier adjuster” , on the two bolts that hold the assembly together , one is a dowel bolt,and should be screwed in by fingers only to ensure it is aligned correctly . I went to Jaguar and did the 4.2 engine course in the mid 70’s. Hope that helps
mate, try getting all the valve clearances and cam timing right in a V6 twin cam with four valve heads...so many ways to cock it up (just did it in 1995 Maserati V6-24V). Nice old donk though, elegant simplicty. Would like to see a build of the Jag V12.
Jaguar V12 would be great, I think the machining and parts would bankrupt me. Maybe we can do one down the road, although I would like to do a high-revving 3.8
Very helpfull video (I have watched them all since I am restoring an 3.8 E Etype) I have a question about a detail. When looking at the original Jaguar Service Manual I notice that the 2 top dampers are fixed in a different way. The right one (of your video) goes to the left and the left one to the right. Any comment ? Many thanks. Marc
Just a quick note to those playing at home, brake clean cleaner is evil stuff, try not to breath it of get it on your skin.. Not good for the kidneys. I speak from experience. Cheers Ross
Exactly Ross but, there's now a second kind without chlorine in the mix. And do I ever know the sufficating effect of chlorine from using it in my pool. When I open the bucket full of it, I make sure I open it with the wind pushing the vapors away from it.
@@marcryvon If the "second kind" you're talking about is that stuff with xylene in it, it's actually worse, much worse. That stuff will give you cancer. I use Tide. Good old fashioned laundry soap and water. After you blow the parts dry, spray or wipe them down with ATF or mineral oil. Then when assembling, use a 50/50 mix of 70% isopropyl alcohol and white vinegar, (which doubles as your kitchen and bathroom disinfecting cleaner) and clean out all the oil passages and bearing surfaces then blow them out with compressed air, just to be on the safe side.
@Neal Head I am a retired ASE Master Tech and I used it too. When I was a kid I'd try not to breathe it in, but when I learned what it was doing to my body I got a respirator and put those 3M chemical cartridges on it. Smelled like I was standing in front of a waterfall! I think 1,1,1 Trichloretheylene is banned in the US now. So what did they come up with as a substitute? *XYLENE!* Almost as carcinogenic as carbon tetrachloride, which is BTW the best cleaner of all. It will take the 1/8" thick carbon off an old exhaust valve like it was cotton candy dropped into boiling water.
@Neal Head We DIYs have done many dangerous things cause we did'nt know, nobody told us, especially manufacturers. My Dad who worked all his life for the CN railroad a Canadian governement owned company, used, like his buddies, wash his hands in open buckets of BCP. Can you imagine ? One day, he dared to make a complaint to the management AND his own union about a well known, very dangerous situation. The plating shop - brass, copper, zinc and chrome - had rotted ventilation hoods from the highly toxic acids used. Never repaired for years, letting the guys inhale deadly fumes including arsenic. Nobody cared. Some days later, he was cornered in an dark isolated spot and threathened, including we, his family, then beattened, by some huge monkeys. From his own union !! When he talked about it to his superviser, he was told to mind his own business ! He resigned on the spot as a Union stewart, and 2 or 3 years later, took an early pension at 59 years old. He would not talk about it for the rest of his life...
About the breather cover on the front of the engine.Could you not machine a groove in the cover and the head for an o'ring to eliminate the paper gaskets and a potential oil leak ?
At 29:51, there is a shot at the back of the right valve cover, the half circle on the cover is much smaller then on the head, it doesn't line up at all. You must have had to grind things on the cover to mate up, what did you do here ? Later, it just shows the cover in place. Plus the gasket is not right into where the O-ring seal would seat, it will probably leak oil there. It's been a while, is it leaking oil there ?
Really looking good.... still not convinced with the gold though. Hey ... What the heck.... nice job,Very well done.... Can't wait to hear and see it running C. :-)
That's not an engine. It's a work of art!
size. Straight sixes are longer than an inline 4 or a V8
@@dodgeplow vw vr6 will solve it
Yes, but the question was about straight sixes, not V-6
It's all about cost now-days. More steel / weight etc. but the best for torque, as in Cummins diesel!
Glorifying the humble potato, are we??
Fifty one years ago ,, as a seventeen year old, I had the experience of working on an XK 140 engine. I didn't know much at the time but I learned fast. It was very similar to the E type but not as evolved. The timing chains and tensioners had worn through the cover ! It was a mess. Your project has brought back fond memories.
Hello sir. What are differences between Etype engine and Xj series 2 engine? E type makes 255 --300 HP but Xj series 2 with similar 4.2 liter engine makes(Max) 155 --165 HP. I wanna buy an E type engine and use it to my dad's XJ 4.2 series ll 1977
I’m guessing those domed pistons are raising compression and notice the grind of the cam, probably much more aggressive than the XJ. Then add triple carbs and perhaps better flowing heads and exhaust, no pollution controls and you’ve added at least 100 hp
@@amirxj4077 chances are that the engines are mechanically very similar most of the difference will be in the carburation and exhaust! I don't know about us spec cars but the series 2 xj 4.2 was rated at 202 or there about!
I was so enjoying watching you rebuilding this amazing and Beautiful E Type engine that I have watched every instalment one after another.it was great way to spend an afternoon...thank you
Great to have you along will have this running soon.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Thanks Michael..I look forward to the future instalments
Pretty! Nice work. Hope you got the correct assembly lube smeared around for the initial start up. Now we wait for some carbs, lube and fuel to hear the BROOM. :-)
Just finished watching this episode. And I made up mind to say it was now a work of art. Then I saw Trebor's comment. But it's true. You are really making me miss my old car. Thanks for all of the great videos.
This video is great. I'm 71 and did my 150 engine 48 years ago by reading the book. Wish I had this video then. Got most of it right...still have the car, and amazingly, the motor still runs great. Thanks so much.
This accuracy in work inspires self-happiness. Cheers guys
I'd like to compliment you on a job well done and I'll leave the last word to my good lady: "I'd be more than happy to have that jewel of an engine take pride of place in our living room".
Greetings From The UK - Excellent Job - and well delivered to camera and verbally
I watched the entire series. Wonderful way to spend a relaxing day. Thanks for sharing.
Can't help but know you r from Canada. The aye 's give you away. All the best from our slides from the north. Loved Ontario lovely province! My direct neighbor to my East, across the big Lake! Keep the videos coming!
That’s got to be the nicest “junk engine” I’ve ever seen it really is a thing of beauty. 👍
You too, glorifying the humble potato. Wake up men of nuts n bolts! While Jaguar was using "dome nuts" on these engines, Mazda was already working on improving the Rotary Wankel engines you could fit into a suitcase!.
Mohabat khan Malak. Tell me which one looks the best. The jag engine or Wankel engine?
@@derekwilkinson7939 Wankel for sure. And on looks, would you want "looks" under the bonnet or in the sleek lines and shape of the car??
Mohabat khan Malak. The E Type is one of the most beautiful cars ever made. With a beautiful engine. In my opinion.
@@derekwilkinson7939 Mercedes Benz SL beats the E Type hands down in comfort, style and build quality. This is before the Datsun 240Z (Nissan Fairlady)comes round the corner!! The SL, mind you had the Bosch fuel injection, a novelty in the 50's and 60's.
Loving the quality of workmanship you're putting in. And the lathe work is fantastic and worrying - I haven't used one since High School! I can see where it could easily go wrong, nice warning.
Great to watch this great engine being built up. I CAN wait for the start up, because I do enjoy the step by step build.
Thanks Richard.
Great to have you along Reg, thanks for watching.
And nowadays engines are hidden under plastic covers. Give me the classics any day!
Absolutely, this is pure engineering and all very comprehensible. How I'd love to work on one of these babies!
Totally enjoying following your rebuild.
I was in 'workshops' from a young age here in Cambridge, England (late 60's) and I recall blue hylomar was for water related parts, and we also had red hylomar for oil related parts to seal. I've never known it as anything else.
We also cut our own gaskets for pretty much everything.
Very cool, thanks for watching. Was that possibly Hylotyte Red?
Brilliant.. thoroughly enjoy the whole series. Well Done.
Thinking back 40 years, I remember polishing the cam covers on my old 3.8 S-type - the oil housing hose may have leaked like hell - but the cam covers and SU carbs always looked great!
Young man you are doing a fantastic job, my congratulations, just a tip from an old man, on those copper washers, if you can't find them new often you can heat them up with the touch, the copper often come back to his original shape, nice going , please keep us posted, I want to see more of it until see it running, from endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesús Torres.
Hi, to follow up on Ove's comment from Norway regarding the oil return hose at 15:36. Since Jag designed this with different size ODs, I believe the way you installed the hose, extra clamps & sealant will fail in time. On my '68 E Type I've done the following. At the oil sump tube put a I" hose on it that fits that tube correctly. Then the hose from the filter head goes over that 1" piece to correctly fill the larger ID of the hose from the oil filter. Now when you tighten the clamps there will be no bulge as shown in your assembly. Great looking cam covers. You're doing a great job, thanks
That's totally possible to fail I agree. When will someone make the right hose?
that sounds like it would be a better fit. i guess i should look back to see how it works. i see it called a return but sending filtered oil back to the pan doesn't see right. so i assume there is pressure on that line.
@@erniew5805 This is a by pass hose if and when the filter clogs up this hose would then return oil to the sump but under most conditions my thoughts are very little oil flows through this line. My tip of using two different sizes of hoses is to get a better sealing onto the smaller OD sump tube. The best solution would be to weld onto the sump a tube the same OD as the filter head tube.
@@2541968joey ok thanks for clearing that up for me. using the 480 psi hose is overkill then . using oil resistant hose of a lower psi rating might be easier to seal off as it wouldn't be as stiff. but replacing the tube would be the gold standard .
Richard Michael Owen Any supplier of Jaguar parts should have the correct part in stock.
The torque setting for the valve cover nuts is 8 ft/lbs not 15. Brings back so many memories of rebuilding my engine a year ago. Great videos, thank you for uploading. (You may remember me / car parked next to you at 2018 Van Dusen white RHD FHC).
Stephen great to hear from you. Thanks for the torque setting. That white European spec S2 was a rare sight.
Un superbe travail !!J·admire votre savoir faire ...Congrats ...
Poetry in Motion! Can't wait to hear that roar! Thanks again for this great rebuild Junk E engine NO MO!
Might run like junk let's see. There is a slim chance I need to get the internals balanced.
Ive only rebuilt mainly American engines, but its been very enjoyable learning the particulars of these grand old engines and watching this work of art go back together. Im well aware these engines take more care and knowledge in certain areas due to their complex and not always perfectly engineered nature, but when one is up and running in proper condition they look and sound oh so beautiful. I love my muscle car V-8's but these engines are a different animal - they have a look and sound thats so much fun to run the gears on, sadly ive only seen videos and only drove one once myself so feel ive really missed out.
Great video series and you do a great job producing them. Excellent work on the engine. I wasn't sure about the gold color at first, but after seeing it together, it's a piece of art. Thank you for sharing.
This is why men sometimes write songs about their cars or engines etc! Great stuff!!!
Do yourself a favor and replace the $5 oil pressure relief spring. These springs lose temper from heat and age and will prevent the newly rebuilt engine from establishing the correct oil pressure. I bought a restored coupe that had low oil pressure even though the engine was a fresh rebuild. When I examined the relief spring it was so week I could compress it completely between my fingers!
Great tip, I did make sure the cup and spring were moving correctly before install.
Beautiful engine! Nice to be working with your father on cars! Mine to was a crack mechanic. Yours at least shows you how to do things. Mine would never ever let see you d it anything except observe a master, hand him tools, go fetch tools, or run for parts. You r so lucky!
Thank you Richard ! You have inspired me with your videos. "EXCELLENT " I have two 69 e-types that are in need of total restoration.
Thanks for posting detailed and high quality video, I am finding it very informative and useful as I am in the middle of rebuilding the engine from my '74 XJ6 4.2, my block should come back from the machine shop next week with +.020" overbore and then I can get busy reassembling. Not going to be a patch on yours mind, for a 'junk' engine yours is looking better than new now! Looking forward to seeing this start up.
Thanks for watching, if I was doing it again I'd probably replace more, so the rod bolts, distance piece and oil pump.
Looking really nice. Black and alloy with a touch of copper, lovely.
Richard, I spray the gaskets days before with the high tac red spray a gasket. Mopar makes one, Gasket Sealant. Then 20 mins before assembly, spray lightly, let tack-up. Also, for badly pitted surfaces. Spray the metal, (mask off) let dry. I never have leaks on the XJS.
Yeah , when i was a kid i worked in a machine shop and the foreman told me be careful on the lathe. It said "that thing will kill you as fast as anything". That thing is beautiful and so very british!!!
Blue Hylomar well known in UK. Odd stuff to torque down maybe? Love your engine. Watch those fingers on the lathe! How many times would I have been ****** without the old man?
Malcom, thanks for watching, great to have you along. Oh man I would hate to do this on my own, sometimes I just fail at things. It weighs hard when something goes wrong for quite some time.
I was introduced to Rolls Royce joint compound in the mid 60s when I was overhauling J-34 & J-47 jet engines. It is a wonder sealent.
Do you know how much pressure it can handle? Can coolant pressure move the Hylomar?
@@RichardMichaelOwen Bit late to the party... I've used Hylomar on aircraft engines, car engines, and bike engines. The amount of pressure it can handle is really down to where you use it. But suffice to say, if you have two nice flat surfaces it is a very effective sealant and I have used it successfully even without any gaskets on timing covers and similar in the past without issue. I wouldn't be crazy about using it in very hot or pressurized areas but it should be fine in the coolant system.
I was wincing looking at you polishing the cap on the lathe - please use a stick or something in future and don't let your hands anywhere near a spinning chuck!
Great series of videos, shared with my pal who owns an E-Type and a Mk II. Look forward to hearing it running
Magnificent, a real pleasure to watch a real engine come together. I like the old stuff, all the best.
That is a real beautiful workmanship. You can be proud of it. Have fun driving the Jaguar, it's a classic. Best regards from Hans from Upper Austria. 🇦🇹
Could not help but notice the TR6 in the background. Hope it gets as much love and attention .
Wow I’m loving the detail, that gold together with the polished ally rocker covers beautiful. 👌👌👌
With all the complex parts, assembly and torquing, we now know why Jaguar overhaul is so very expensive. This series should be used for every mechanic school.
Jaguar or JCB its still just an engine
i think not,the story here is get daddy
When it comes to life and the black ceramic exhaust starts to give a wiff of smoke , close as you can come to a new born baby, with a machine.
Another piece of fine "simple" English engineering!
That engine is a work of art! I’d love to have it on display in my living Room!🙀👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I think I would have plugged the spark plug holes during assembly. For a "junk" engine you sure are meticulous. Very nice!
I would venture a guess that your beautiful engine will not leak a drop. It is almost to pretty to let run and get dirty. Great job, so far.
Use a black "sharpie" pen to fill in the "Jaguar" markings on the oil cap. You will like the results. Additionally begin your initial cranking over with the coil disconnected and look for oil pressure on the gauge to insure you have full lubrication. It also would not hurt to inject a squirt of Marvel Mystery Oil into each spark plug hole and crank over with them only finger tight at first.
Richard on the hose clamps, to really make them work effectively and seal, you need to put the hose clamp right up to the bulge in the hose created by the raised lip on the end of the nipple. Don't clamp on the raised portion but right behind it. That way it's pulling the hose down around the raised lip before going under the hose clamp. I hope that's understandable it's one of those things that can be hard to explain in writing but I could show you in 2 seconds. Good job so far I can't wait to hear it run.
Thanks for the comment I totally agree. Also try to look for pipes with raised lips, lots of the hardware from SNG Barratt has raised lips.
Brilliant. Now when do we see you do a similar job on the 'My junk E-Type Car' that it turns out you just happen to have lying around?
I totally agree, I’d have that work of art in my living room.
You’re Dad is the Google of everything!
Excellent work. I really enjoy watching you work and the attention to detail. Cant wait for the next episode.
Great work mate these can be such a pretty motor done up. Always love the gold accents. I have a 420g with about 3 motors collecting dust in the corner of my shop, this is inspiring me to do them justice and get stuck in. Keep up the fantastic work!
I have 420G bought as a parts car but too good to scrap. Available either complete or parts Call/text me on +1 778 nine eight seven five 858
The bracket is part of the tensioner. it should have a pulley attached to it that acts like an automatic tensioner for the belt that goes around the harmonic balancer pulley and the water pump pulley. hope this helps. Great series!
Can't wait to see it in and started. It's beautiful.
Hopefully soon, just went though the distributor today
Good luck. I'll get some of my mates to subscribe too. @@RichardMichaelOwen
I use my lathe to file, sand and polish everything round. Made a polishing head for the Bridgeport. Once, I slightly hit my knuckle on the jaw, that was smarts. I use paint mixing sticks from HomeDepot. Large and small. Hold sandpaper on stick against part. Your speed is a little fast, about half. My 2 pennies.
The spacer you mentioned that is for the bracket that hol the dyno. I had the same problem that it scratched the water pump housing ( but i had a aftermarked waterpump from SNG barrat- nothing from there fits) but I did have the same spacer that i had marked 3 year ago when I took it apart. I have a picture and it shows that the spacer are just slightly wider that the bracket it selv. But we have 2 different brackets...
Great video.ive seen the jaguar infill on the oil cap done in red.
looks a million dollars!!
That looks like a different engine than what I commented on the other day - I’m not seeing the “hook” the right cam sprocket sits in...
Well done!!!!
I am proud to say I actually owned a 4.2 2+2 and like an idiot sold it, the one vehicle I owned in my lifetime and should never have sold.
Owned it before any speed restrictions were brought in, in the UK so it was always a blast to run down the Motorway to blow the cobwebs off so to speak.
Happy days. And just remembered I still have the original Tyre Pressure Guage inscribed Jaguar as supplied when the car was originally sold new.
Yes, I restored my Series II then sold it before they became the Holy Grail. I couldn't bear to pay the price to replace it now.
It's called hylomar in the UK too, used it for years
Hey, thanks for the name, "hylomar". I was watching a different rebuild video where the engine was being assembled without gaskets. As I recall, hylomar was used in Rolls engines that were machined so carefully that gaskets were not needed or wanted, but to avoid any unsightly seepage, hylomar was sparingly used. I described the material, but couldn't remember the name, and didn't take the time to look in my "glue" box to find the tube. I only remembered the blue color, er colour.
Hi well seal is Brown & sticky, hylomar is blue sticky but different 😅 great videos thanks, just about to do the same to my 3.4 thanks John from the isle of wight GB
I recall getting a lift in a jag as a spotty kid. My dad always had junk cars that ran like crap.
The contrast with the jag was so extreme. The cool shiny leather seat, the dash was beautiful patterned walnut. I couldnt hear or feel the engine. When he took off i was squashed up into the seat with the acceleration. Like being in a gentlemans club and being shot out of a cannon at the same time.
I rememember seeing lots of new jags lined up dockside for export over the atlantic to the usa from liverpool. Sorry to see them go.
blue hylomar sealant was developed by Rolls Royce post WW2 to seal things up in the early days of the jet engine development. It's years ahead of silicon sealants and does not set. (will dissolve in your engine) not destroy it!
I've used the spray can Hylomar for years but had no idea there was a tube version. Now on my list. Thanks, Richard. Love your work, mate
It used to say on the tube it was licensed from Rolls Royce (in 1970's~80's) No idea if there is anything there today? I didn't know it was post WWII, always thought it was in Spitfire engines and was non hardening so it could go through oil pump or any oil passage without damaging anything. Wasn't aware it would dissolve in engine oil
Just so you know, I am not being pedantic or some "knowit-all." Somewhere in at least one of these series I saw you mention a thing, a rather important thing. You took down an engine and said (I'm paraphrasing) "This cylinder has a ridge so we'll bore it out .020 over (or whatever dimension you said)." Small thing to note here, a ridge does not automatically mean bore it out. A ridge can be simple buildup and many times boring out a cylinder is not the answer to "fix the ridge." I am not certain if you corrected this already so ignore me if you did. I am enjoying the series so far, even if this is "older content now," I just found your channel.
A marrvellous result - well done ' A thing of beauty is a joy forever '- would love this mounted on a mahogany plinth just to look at it !.
Great job richard. love the copper washers and domed nuts awsome job..
It should be under glass in the Garagemahal! A work of art.👍🏻
Looking forward to the wiring going on - fantastic job so far.
Might it be a good idea to put the spark plugs in lightly, just to stop stuff falling into the cylinders? One small screw could spoil your whole day.
Nice job look forward to watching your videos . I have restored a few Jags in the past .
I did a semi restoration of an E type back in the 90's for the bodyshop I was working at , the guy was a tight arse and woudn't spend the money for new parts so had to make half the panels , had to make the rear half or the bonnet sides as I didn't want to see patches when you opened the bonnet , had to patch all around the panels I was given I was a nightmare .
John, wow yeah I hear the aftermarket fenders are no good anyway. bodywork on an E-Type is real trouble.
3:02 Love the Gold in the plug valley... NICE!
Love that gold color! Looks beautiful, only a British car lover would say that. Cheers! from Chicago.
Nice work. Blue hylomar used to be made in naylor st in liverpool !
For the smaller size hose barb, braze a tight fitting tube on the barb, split it if you have to and use bailing wire to twist/ clamp it in the middle while brazing. Clean/Sand to smooth condition. When the hose is over it it you will not notice the work.
Hylomar and Wellseal are both available in the UK and whilst they are both soft sealants they are totally different to look at and handle.
Hylomar is blue as per you video and comes in tubes. Wellseal is brown and is like a tacky oil and comes in tins. I love Wellseal, I've never had a leak after using it, I can't say the same for Hylomar.
Jaguar used a special hose between the oil filter housing and the sump. If you measure you will find out that the outlet pipe on the oil filter housing and the sump inlet pipe are two different dimensions. If you use a regular hose with the same diameter on both ends, it will leak.
Hello Richard, just found your youtube site, amazing work not to mention the time it takes to also film what you are doing!!! I have always loved the XK140 AND especially the XK150 OTS. From what I gather, even though you buy what is supposed to be a great looking XK, you really never know what is underneath or the reliability of the drive train...all labor intensive and expensive with loads of surprises. Would it be fair to say that when you are looking at buying, it is best to have someone like yourself fly over for an inspection and/or just look at booking the car in with you for a complete restoration? All my best to you and your father. Michael
Lovely engine. Nice rebuild. I saw a comment on another rebuild video where the mechanic was not wearing gloves. The commenter said that bare handed work was "old style". I guess I am an "old style" mechanic. I started rebuilding engines in 1953. I wouldn't wear gloves like those if you paid me. I love the feel of the parts. It is like I can "taste" the metal with my fingers. I deliberately (is there another word?) fondle the engine and all of its parts. It isn't like I do things brutally and have damaged hands. It is more like a violinist coaxing notes from his instrument. You might want to try feeling the parts bare-handed. It might add a nice dimension to your enjoyment of your work. It is tempting to say you would do better work, but I don't think that is it, although I think you are missing many tiny details. You might find yourself smoothing edges more carefully, just so they feel better. I find it impossible to imagine where, how, and why you became convinced that wearing those airtight sweat retaining gloves was a good idea. Maybe my question is "what are you afraid of?"
It is a matter of a deeper pleasure and connection to the soul of the machine. I wear gloves if there are toxic or corrosive chemicals involved, but as soon as that is done, the gloves come off. My hands want to be in the air, in the most direct contact possible, feeling the textures and temperatures and the finish. It is truly a sensual pleasure.
Anyway, you are building a beautiful engine, and I will look up the older videos, and look forward to the next ones. Thanks for sharing.
PS, just found episode 1, and you were removing the valve covers bare handed. Aha, maybe there is hope for you after all.
Wellseal (by Stag) is a brown liquid, developed for Rolls Royce, comes in a tube, but most decant into a jar and apply with a small brush. Used it for years and love it, Hylomar on the other hand I hate with a passion, nasty messy stuff, and as far as I'm concerned totally unnecessary on an engine, Wellseal will do it all, with a gasket, or without a gasket. Paper gaskets and good mating surfaces I only use grease, helps to swell the paper and create a tight joint.
Wellseal does harden?
Best thing about Welseal is the smell... Love it, smells like a job well done!
@@RichardMichaelOwen it doesn't dry fully. Kind of goes from a 50w oil consistency to that of old dryed out grease. Never fully sets so allows you to remove parts easy and no risk of excess falling inside and blocking an oil way like silicone can.
To find TDC using a dial indicator, the best method is to use a degree wheel and measure the degrees away from TDC on both sides of it: First find a preliminary TDC and go to .050" or .100" piston drop on either side, mark the two on the degree wheel and then 'split the difference' on the wheel. THAT's the true TDC. This is another reason to use petroleum jelly on your bearing inserts. Using oil can allow as much as .001" play in the bearing, throwing off the dial indicator reading. If you did use oil, measure both of your 'drop marks' on the approach to TDC. For best accuracy, use PJ on assembly and the "split" method to find TDC accurate to the minute. None of this takes extra time or effort, just a different method that is more accurate.
Petroleum jelly also keeps a greasy separation of the bearings from the journals until the engine can develop oil pressure on the first start up. Some guys will run the oil pump with a drill on engines with an OP drive shaft, like some older American V8's, but if you use PJ on assembly you don't have to.
Yes that is a much more accurate system, totally agree.
It's a pleasure watching you work on this engine Richard. Your attention to detail is reassuring that there is somebody else in this world who loves to do a good job and have it look the best he can. I would have had those aluminum covers polished to a mirror shine and clear coated, but the finish you have is still fine. And I mean "fine" as in excellent. A matter of taste I suppose.
You are doing the first thing any good technician does: *go to the service manual.* Nobody knows better than the guys who designed the engine.
Thanks, good build.We call it hylomar in England.It states on the old tubes.Used by Rolls Royce. :)
If you had welded the oil holes in the cams, they would definitely take points off at Monterey 😀😀😀. Also, when fussing with those bolts on the front of the cams, I would have stuffed a rag below to catch anything that dropped.
I notice that, as was custom of the time, the breather vents to atmosphere.😰
The breather housing actually goes over to the intake, I guess the other option would be fitting a catchcan.
Blue hylomar is also sold here in the uk, as approved by Rolls Royce none the less!
Beautiful. They’re a nice looking engine.
Very nice!! Great attention to detail.
Hylomar (blue)was developed by Rolls Royce , weld-seal (brown) is a different product in the U.K. believe me I have used many tubes of these sealants .
Lock wire should be in a “S” shape pulling the bolt clockwise ,
On the cam timing gear, the toothed camshaft adjuster is called a ‘’Vernier adjuster” , on the two bolts that hold the assembly together , one is a dowel bolt,and should be screwed in by fingers only to ensure it is aligned correctly .
I went to Jaguar and did the 4.2 engine course in the mid 70’s.
Hope that helps
Great job Richard.
She's stunning can't wait to see it running!
Funny with the title of the vid. Clearly not a junk engine. Nice job!
I have an XJ6 with one of these engines, if you’re ever down in New Zealand you could do something similar - I’ll supply the beer!
mate, try getting all the valve clearances and cam timing right in a V6 twin cam with four valve heads...so many ways to cock it up (just did it in 1995 Maserati V6-24V). Nice old donk though, elegant simplicty. Would like to see a build of the Jag V12.
th-cam.com/video/tHXB0lTxM_s/w-d-xo.html
Jaguar V12 would be great, I think the machining and parts would bankrupt me. Maybe we can do one down the road, although I would like to do a high-revving 3.8
Very helpfull video (I have watched them all since I am restoring an 3.8 E Etype) I have a question about a detail. When looking at the original Jaguar Service Manual I notice that the 2 top dampers are fixed in a different way. The right one (of your video) goes to the left and the left one to the right. Any comment ? Many thanks. Marc
Great job ,And nice to see a cool looking well built engine...But now we lift the hood and see ...cheep Plastic ...need i say more...
Just a quick note to those playing at home, brake clean cleaner is evil stuff, try not to breath it of get it on your skin.. Not good for the kidneys. I speak from experience. Cheers Ross
Exactly Ross but, there's now a second kind without chlorine in the mix. And do I ever know the sufficating effect of chlorine from using it in my pool. When I open the bucket full of it, I make sure I open it with the wind pushing the vapors away from it.
@@marcryvon If the "second kind" you're talking about is that stuff with xylene in it, it's actually worse, much worse. That stuff will give you cancer.
I use Tide. Good old fashioned laundry soap and water. After you blow the parts dry, spray or wipe them down with ATF or mineral oil. Then when assembling, use a 50/50 mix of 70% isopropyl alcohol and white vinegar, (which doubles as your kitchen and bathroom disinfecting cleaner) and clean out all the oil passages and bearing surfaces then blow them out with compressed air, just to be on the safe side.
@Neal Head I am a retired ASE Master Tech and I used it too. When I was a kid I'd try not to breathe it in, but when I learned what it was doing to my body I got a respirator and put those 3M chemical cartridges on it. Smelled like I was standing in front of a waterfall!
I think 1,1,1 Trichloretheylene is banned in the US now. So what did they come up with as a substitute? *XYLENE!* Almost as carcinogenic as carbon tetrachloride, which is BTW the best cleaner of all. It will take the 1/8" thick carbon off an old exhaust valve like it was cotton candy dropped into boiling water.
@Neal Head
We DIYs have done many dangerous things cause we did'nt know, nobody told us, especially manufacturers. My Dad who worked all his life for the CN railroad a Canadian governement owned company, used, like his buddies, wash his hands in open buckets of BCP. Can you imagine ? One day, he dared to make a complaint to the management AND his own union about a well known, very dangerous situation. The plating shop - brass, copper, zinc and chrome - had rotted ventilation hoods from the highly toxic acids used. Never repaired for years, letting the guys inhale deadly fumes including arsenic. Nobody cared. Some days later, he was cornered in an dark isolated spot and threathened, including we, his family, then beattened, by some huge monkeys. From his own union !! When he talked about it to his superviser, he was told to mind his own business !
He resigned on the spot as a Union stewart, and 2 or 3 years later, took an early pension at 59 years old. He would not talk about it for the rest of his life...
Great job, enjoyed this episode
About the breather cover on the front of the engine.Could you not machine a groove in the cover and the head for an o'ring to eliminate the paper gaskets and a potential oil leak ?
very pretty looking engine!
At 29:51, there is a shot at the back of the right valve cover, the half circle on the cover is much smaller then on the head, it doesn't line up at all. You must have had to grind things on the cover to mate up, what did you do here ? Later, it just shows the cover in place.
Plus the gasket is not right into where the O-ring seal would seat, it will probably leak oil there.
It's been a while, is it leaking oil there ?
Really looking good.... still not convinced with the gold though.
Hey ... What the heck.... nice job,Very well done.... Can't wait to hear and see it running C. :-)
Permatex #2 best gasket and thread sealer ever made .
Wellseal is a similar product used now and thinner. Permatex seems to harden in the tube.
Wonderful job. Top of the day Sir....