Dad gave me a 1947, 3-5 litre Drophead Coupe in the 1960s . Still in the family. Did all my own servicing with dads help. I can recall taking the starter motor off and setting on the bench. “What are you doing with that ?“ asks dad. “ Taking it down to get fixed” I reply. “ No you’re not. You’ll repair it yourself. “ says dad . So I stripped the armature re-lacquered a hundred miles of copper wire, rewound and baked the armature in the kitchen oven. Recovered the fields etc. put it back together tested it. “Yay presto works!” “See how much money you saved” says dad. “Yeah. Thanks dad...”:50 years later still remember it. I’m now in Aussie and the car’s in NZ Still drives ok. Richard, just found your great video. You got yourself a new follower.
Boy this video brings back memories. In 1960, I bought my first car. A 1954 Jaguar XK120M, for $800. Ran great . Then one day something happened and the engine had to be removed to fix the problem. A friend who owned a shop did the work to fix the car. My task was to take the head apart and do the valve job part of the repair. This was the first time in my life I ever worked on a car. Slowly one by one I replaced all new valves, springs, spacers, and bearings. Tightened the cam shaft down checked the clearance, and repeated it if the clearance was off. Put the car back together and attempted to start it. Would not start, then discovered we had put the wires into the distributor 180 degree out. Switched the wire and it started right up. One thing we did was shaved some off the head. That had a big impact. At 2500RPM, it was like the car was kicked in the butt, and it took off. What surprised me years later was the 120 had a metal timing belt in 1954. At the present time my 2001 Ferrari 360 has a rubber one and it was not until the Ferrari 430 came out with a metal timing belt.
You’ve warmed us up, now we need to go the full trip, all the sights, all the stops and starts......please My Father worked at the Jaguar factories in Coventry for 36 years, he probably made the chassis on that Jag. 🇬🇧👍🏻
I never gave a twit about the inside of a Jag engine, yet I found this fascinating & watched every second! Can't wait for the rest. It's so much more interesting than just another standard V8 build.
We have a 1952 XK120 Jag that we inherited from my father-in-law when he passed away last year at age 92, it has been restored to its original trim and, thankfully, has a fresh engine in it. This video has been incredibly useful to me, keep them coming on these Jag DOHC inline 6 engines! I've got ours running like a watch now and want to keep it that way.
Those long camshafts, with so few lobes, always surprise me when the cover comes off, compared to modern engines. I really enjoy these videos, with his vast experience and enthusiasm for whatever he’s working on.
Great work, I’m from Coventry where this was made and have grown up with Jaguars. I liked the care taken with this strip down and very impressed with the 1950’s engineering.
I've developed a fascination for vintage car engines quite late in life and I find your videos easy to follow and very enjoyable. I look forward to hearing that fine old Jaguar engine purr once again.
For an old guy like me it is hugely entertaining to see this job done so well ! Wish I had the facilities and tools to do it myself still, but your video is a tremendous replacement and very educational..... keep doing these great jobs. Probably a useful suggestion is to maintain a website with additional notes on details, plan, parts etc. for those who like the same challenge in future!
I love how every step is explained in a very pleasent way. Great editing too. It feels more like watching a part of an art restauration process than a mechanical job. And doing this together with your dad is just awesome.
Having been raised working on big block Corvettes and restoring them for almost 40 years, and now working on LS and LT engines, it's cool to see something different. Very well done video. Entertaining and informative. Look forward to seeing the rest of the build.
On boats you hang a lump of magnesium off the rail attached to the ground system to help prevent galvanic corrosion. They sell cast fish anodes for that purpose in marine shops. It can be a real surprise how fast those anodes disappear in some circumstances,
The careful and methodical disassembly technique added to the clear descriptions of rare early engineering technologies comes only after years of study and experience. It is difficult to imagine the heart of this old girl being in better hands. And thanks to dad too. He must be very proud.
Nice!! Im 19, just finished up a 4.3 rebuild thats goin back into a S2 E-type, had no clue people would be so interested in this stuff! Makes me want to video the next engine overhaul, thank you for passing on the knowledge for those earlier XK engines! Cant wait to use this as a resource. Cheers!
The cylinder head is very malleable, and as such can bend an example of that follows Here: I was driving through the Pyrenees towards Southern Spain from France a few years ago, when my temperature gauge showed an alarming and rapid rise , and after several stop starts to refill the coolant, I ended up stopping at a gas station on the motorway close to Zaragoza with five hundred miles left to drive, I checked into the gas station motel, and proceeded to pull the head off the car in blazing sunshine, and with only a simple socket set and a few hand tools. From the motel phone I ordered a seven day delivery of a head gasket set, there was no other faster delivery possible in 1997, and I took off the head finding that it had warped almost a quarter of an inch higher in the centre making it banana shaped. The gasket set arrived, and it was fitted, but I tightened only the centre six bolts down to approximately 50pounds feet at a guess, and left it overnight. The next day those six bolts were loose, and I tightened them once again to 50lb./ft. and left it for a few hours. I repeated this on the six centre bolts for another three or four times, and finally, there was no more movement, the head was now firmly torqued up to the block, and I worked my way outwards to tighten the rest of the head bolts up to 50lb./ft. After another day, the bolts were holding their torque, and I gave them another little torque to approx. 55-60 lbs.ft. going by intuition , and then put the rest of the engine together in the usual way. After starting the engine, I ran it to get it hot, and discovered that the viscous coupling on the fan was slipping, and I unwound two of the four holding nuts out until they locked onto the fan pulley, locking the fan to run at engine speed. I drove the car ( A 3.4 litre XJ6 Coupe ) to Estepona five hundred miles further South, and that engine did another 30,000 miles without being touched, until I sold the car. Proving that aluminium cylinder heads can be carefully put together even when they are banana shaped.
I saw my first XK120 in my village of Houghton Regis, Bedfordshire, price £55 , i was a ten year old and pesterred my dad to buy it, wisely he didnt, but i got the bug, i am enjoying watching this video so much so a big thank you, from Cheshire UK
Came across this video unintentionally. Made me wish I had such a source of information some 50 years ago. Had an XK150 which dropped a big end not long after I purchased (second hand with a lot of Australian miles on). Started the rebuild then married. Never finished it, but did keep in touch with the purchaser for some years. Rebuilt to Concourse Condition over the following 15 years.
I like how you opened this engine so carefully yet knowingly, you clearly know what you are doing and that fascinates me, thank you! It seems like you're caressing the engine! :)
Welcome back Richard, hope you and the family are keeping safe and well. Really loved this step by step on the old 3.5 XK engine, I had one complete with Moss gearbox sitting under my house for 25 years, guy that I bought a nice manual 1966 3.4S Type off threw it in with the deal, it even had a complete pair the early type "long neck" 1.75 inch SU carbs on it. I had to dump the whole thing when moving interstate. Yes, more please on all your jobs.
Thanks for the detailed process of this engine rebuild Richard - takes me back to my youth, when I worked on these engines back in the 1960s... as soon as I see the camshaft covers I'm back there 😊
Thanks Richard ⚓️ Hi… I use scrap area rugs carpets under a block… carpet shops give them away ⚓️ also scrap leather…. Scissors up an old pair of boots… use the leather to cushion pliers/hammers… avoids tool marks 😮
I love it. Looks so much like the first engine I ever rebuilt which was the 3.8L out of my '63 sedan circa 1972. Thanks for the memories. I finally smarted up and am currently rebuilding my '90 Toyota pickup which I bought new in 1990. Brits vs Japanese. Huge difference in engineering.
"Otter switch"...Otter Controls, Buxton, Derbyshire...I was US rep for them in the 1990s...went to the factory several times. Spent a lot of time in Detroit with their sales and tech guys, calling on middle tier suppliers, and Ford, where we were warmly welcomed because one of the main SVT guys was a Brit! Moved a lot of Otter switches, mostly for window lift stall protection, but also some applications in coolant sensors, like the one shown here. I have an MGB that has one of the venerable disc switches mounted on the top of the radiator. It tickles me to see them! Otter was also really keen on tire temp and pressure sensing technology for a while, but the only application they found was in a few F1 race cars. Their system was over-specified for the mass market, however, so we never got them into US manufactured vehicles (but we had a time every spring in Detroit, displaying at the SAE for a week at Cobo).
It is great to see such an iconic car being brought back to life. Using as many of the original parts as possible just adds to the authenticity. I have just found your channel and it is really great. I am from the UK so it is very nostalgic to see something from "home" being worked on so lovingly. Thanks very much.
Richard your knowledge is amazing. You would have been an excellent surgeon. Your attention to details and meticulousness are things that cannot be taught to residents. Either you have it or you don't. Love the videos. Keep em coming. More more more.
Old Jaguars are great looking cars:) if only I had all the monies, lots of old cars in my museum garage and a small apartment/studio sized living area inside to overlook all the cars lol
Nice detailed video, yes please do follow up on this engine build. Nice to see it get assembled and fired up! The red paint on the bolts is Red Lead paint for an anti corrosion. Usually used on ferrous marine applications.
This engine brought back some memories. I had a friend in New Rochelle High School in the mid seventies who was rebuilding an old Jaguar like this one. I remember what surprised me was the cylinders were the size of paint cans.
This is fantastic Richard! I have a 61 Mark 9, I've got the 3.8 out and I am going to start getting it ready for rebuild. Your video is very informative! My Dad had a 57 drophead coupe.
That engine is from a time when they were built by real craftsmen, time served apprentices of seven years who knew what they were doing! I'm glad there are people like you who are prepared to spend the time (and the money!) to rebuild and preserve technology like this. Yes, I would like to see much more of how this project developes, with as much detail as you have the time and patiencce to include please. I have subscribed!
Yep parts wouldn't interchange, being a do-all approach meant added expense with no gain in performance or durability, Companies like Packard had machine tolerances to +/-0.00002 ", and parts machine made are also cheaper yet of superior durability.
You video reminds me of a XK 120 drop head coupe that my Dad and my brothers and I found in a salvage yard in the early 1960s. It had a cracked block that my dad welded. We got it running and driving but it was undependable for my brother to drive to collage. He ended up selling it in 1967 for $750. We did not know what we had.
These videos are so well done as is the careful methodical work on these beautiful works of auto art. Please keep it going Mr. Owen. Thank you so much for your hard work and sharing!!
Hi Richard, my body was built in 1952, so this engine is as old as I am, and probably in better shape! 😊 love these videos, compelling, can’t wait to see the next instalment. All the way from New Zealand.
Very interesting impressive and thorough work. I have done this myself over the years right from messing it all up in my teenage years and 30 years down the line on my XK150 that I still own. I did rebuild my engine again some years back to +030 and crank regrind. Fortunately the thrust was ok. I did use specialist machine services to rebuild the head and it runs well. However after seeing this and your other videos the level of your work far exceeds what I did certainly in the cleanliness department. I'm a great believer in running the engine foe a few hours and immediately changing the oil and filter. Just cant take the risk of the pressure relief valve getting some grit under it or damage from some lurking grit. I like all the details you show.
The care and respect that you give to these very old machines is both fascinating and heartwarming at the same time. (If I was Director of antiquities restoration at the Louvre, I would confidently sign the Mona Lisa over to your Department!) - Stay blessed and well both of you....🙏🇬🇧
I really enjoy your posts and I have worked for Jag for a while in the '70s and am now putting my third personal 120 back together. My '50 had the old style bell housing, the high top carbs, the early block, the whole early "kit". It was fascinating. By the way, if anyone has an early oil pump let me know, should be the same as a MKVII.
Richard - Definitely want to see the full rebuild of this engine. Will really be interested to see if your machine shop can save the head. Could not believe how easy the engine came apart, especially with all the internal rust.
I was having the same thought, amazing how easily a 70 year old engine from a neglected car came apart. Probably a combination of luck and a mechanic who really knows what he's doing... A joy to watch.
Very very cool and really glad that you're doing back to original. When you get older in life, you appreciate the originals. Driving them today will take some modifications but you can retain most of the original car. These 3 1/2 and 4.2 6s are a true hemi engine for the pistons are domed and the heads are domed.
Good to see you back on the screen Richard. I've just rebuilt my 1950 120 engine - studless cam covers, bow front engine mount etc. - so it'll be interesting to see how you tackle this. Looking forward to more on the 150.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Indeed, plus tall dashpot carbs and the deeper cast aluminium sump. Good luck with the oil level float mechanism. I could never get mine to stop leaking. I've had some aluminium blanks made up to go over the hole. If you find yourself in a similar position and want one just let me know.
Yep! Wanna see more! It's been 40 years since I rebuilt a Jag... a couple of sixes and one V12 back in the day. The sixes were good memories that this brings back. The V12 was the stuff of PTSD. Imagine a '70s V12 overheated to seizure.
I’ve never watched your channel. This video was suggested but after watching the entire video I’m subscribed and really hoping you follow up with this one. Thanks for taking the time to record it!
Red oxide primer, here used as rust protective coat. Give my regards to this FHC long-time curator. He purchased my 54 DHC, last time I visited seen in his outbuilding 35+ years before! Also greatly enjoyed the alloy-body episode, that car from my pal in the past near Seattle, named MJ. I'm still piloting an XK8 convertible as weekend car! XKs are timeless. Regards-
The shifting spanner you used for the distributor drive looked positively ancient, I have some which belonged to a Grandfather who was a steam engineer!
It's really sad to see vintage tech deteriorating because people did not take good care of it - why not use antifreeze? Loving your restaurations, thanks for making videos!
Great video Richard! I've had a few apart myself and wish I had seen this before I did it. Nice to see what's important and not, what procedures are a must and what isn't. Can't wait to see it run, that moment everyone anticipates when it comes alive.
Superbly interesting content Richard, great to see you back with another fantastic project.Love the traditional ' quiet ' practice using hand tools and a methodical , careful approach to avoid damage to rare parts.Although not a Jaguar expert , I have a good deal of experience working on a late 1920s Rolls-Royce Phantom engine and can see similarities in ' old school ' engineering !.Looking forward to the next episode.
I can't wait to see this motor restored, tuned and running!! I want to see you guys driving this car already!! Can't wait!! Looking forward to the notification of the next video being posted!!
We enjoyed seeing the last one (the junk E type),this is just as interesting,your skill and paitience are inspiring,please keep up the good work,thaks and thubs up...
Richard, Greetings to you. I was astonished when you showed the Engine number of W4520-8, I thought to myself, err, 'ang on there one minute, that sounds familiar. I stopped the video and I went and checked the engine number of the Studless Cam engine I am at present readying to re-assemble, and it is W4519-8! Small world.!. :)) I bought the engine from a chap in Norfolk who bought 3 containers of early XK engines and stuff from a closing down parts business in the US a few years back. The engine will be going into my 1952 XK120 OTS that I bought in 1972. It should have engine W4368-7 which would also have been a studless cam cover. The car came with a later XK engine which has since gone west and I am at present driving it on a 1963 MkII 3.4. It will be nice to get it looking correct under the bonnet again. Regarding the 1/2 moon engine front mounting plate you mentioned, that is what I am using and it has never given any problems with 45 years of driving. Loved the video.
@@RichardMichaelOwen I will be going to Jaguar Spares Day next weekend and will be looking out for some for myself. I did use the very thick sheets of protective card that they use to cover Bananas in boxes from my local supermarket to cut out as a template to make standard Cam Box gaskets when the old ones leaked and needed replacing. They work a treat. Will keep you posted.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Hi Michael, I tried to get studless cambox gaskets from SNG Barrats at the Jaguar Spares day. They had the Pt No listed, but it referred to the later type. I will have to make my own out of a long piece of thick gasket paper.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Mine was done at . Damper Doctor 1055 Parkview Ave. Redding, CA 96001 530-246-2984 Cost me $289 incl. shipping but that was a few years ago (2016)
Very interesting! Cylinder 1's oil feed has to pass through all sludge traps in the cranckshaft, it seems. That could possibly be the reason why there seems to be work done on cylinder 1, and the furthest main. Thank you for the video!
Richard, as others have said, would definitely like to follow the progress of the XK120 engine rebuild. Nice to see that the 150 bodyshell is back from Jason and that's a very tasty looking TR2 in the background!
Sure do want the rest of the story. I rebuilt a Jag 6 in about 1966. Not this engine, similar but more sophisticated, probably a XK140 or 150. I remember being delighted with the design, and the rebuild turned out well. We had many fewer issues since the engine we worked on was in good shape and running, but off it's feed, needed valve work mostly. We replaced rod and main bearings, rings but not the pistons which were in good shape. As I recall the cam bearings were fine, we may have replaced them but I don't remember. There is one thing I hope you can shed light on. This was my first Jaguar engine rebuild. We had the shop manual, and carefully followed the specs, but when we came to finishing the valve work, the manual said "do not lap the valves". We looked at each other and "What??" We always lapped valves carefully, considered it a final touch of precision and pride. We talked about the issue every which way, and finally lapped the valves. We simply could not imagine why that was in the manual. The engine worked great, we double checked the clearances, and there was no problem. The customer was happy. The engine was happy, we were happy. Any light to shed?
@@RichardMichaelOwen Well, we were the machine shop, did the 3 angle work, and still always lapped. Don't like "probably" when I'm working on machinery. Although once in a while you can't get away from it. I wound up answering a frantic "help!!" message from a friend of a friend up in the mountains in Big Sur. Found him, his girlfriend, and an urgent need to move - with an old Plymouth six - about a '49, with a knocking rod. NO parts for miles, no money. Took off the pan and found a spun insert and lots of nasty on the crank journal. Had emery paper and a mike. Spent quite a while getting the crank round and smooth again, and asked the guy if he had a really strong leather belt. Yup, I had heard the story sometime, so I cut a bearing out of his belt, cinched it down with the rod cap, got the pan back on with a lucky tube of sealant and the old gasket, and took a deep breath. Fired it up, and it ran just fine. I told him to keep the revs down and go as easy as he could. Last I heard he made it back to civilization, and was very grateful. I heard it worked a lot longer than any of us thought it would. (When I heard the story about the leather rod bearing, I can remember being super dubious - but there I was, with nowhere else to go. And it worked. Phew.) So any idea why the Jag shop manual had that "don't lap" note in it?? If you have an old shop manual I bet you can find the note in the valve section.
Dad gave me a 1947, 3-5 litre Drophead Coupe in the 1960s . Still in the family. Did all my own servicing with dads help. I can recall taking the starter motor off and setting on the bench. “What are you doing with that ?“ asks dad. “ Taking it down to get fixed” I reply. “ No you’re not. You’ll repair it yourself. “ says dad . So I stripped the armature re-lacquered a hundred miles of copper wire, rewound and baked the armature in the kitchen oven.
Recovered the fields etc. put it back together tested it. “Yay presto works!” “See how much money you saved” says dad. “Yeah. Thanks dad...”:50 years later still remember it. I’m now in Aussie and the car’s in NZ Still drives ok. Richard, just found your great video. You got yourself a new follower.
Yep we certainly want to see this job completed with more video's. Thanks
وانتيمو قران بس قران صغير
Boy this video brings back memories. In 1960, I bought my first car. A 1954 Jaguar XK120M, for $800. Ran great . Then one day something happened and the engine had to be removed to fix the problem. A friend who owned a shop did the work to fix the car. My task was to take the head apart and do the valve job part of the repair. This was the first time in my life I ever worked on a car. Slowly one by one I replaced all new valves, springs, spacers, and bearings. Tightened the cam shaft down checked the clearance, and repeated it if the clearance was off. Put the car back together and attempted to start it. Would not start, then discovered we had put the wires into the distributor 180 degree out. Switched the wire and it started right up. One thing we did was shaved some off the head. That had a big impact. At 2500RPM, it was like the car was kicked in the butt, and it took off. What surprised me years later was the 120 had a metal timing belt in 1954. At the present time my 2001 Ferrari 360 has a rubber one and it was not until the Ferrari 430 came out with a metal timing belt.
as a former owner of a MK7 and 3.8,( dad had a XK140 Drop and a E) i found this a fascinating journey into the distant past.. Keep it coming. thanks
You’ve warmed us up, now we need to go the full trip, all the sights, all the stops and starts......please My Father worked at the Jaguar factories in Coventry for 36 years, he probably made the chassis on that Jag. 🇬🇧👍🏻
What years, please?
@@edwardhalpin7503 1954 onwards withabreakin service when they had the fire
I never gave a twit about the inside of a Jag engine, yet I found this fascinating & watched every second! Can't wait for the rest. It's so much more interesting than just another standard V8 build.
We have a 1952 XK120 Jag that we inherited from my father-in-law when he passed away last year at age 92, it has been restored to its original trim and, thankfully, has a fresh engine in it.
This video has been incredibly useful to me, keep them coming on these Jag DOHC inline 6 engines! I've got ours running like a watch now and want to keep it that way.
Those long camshafts, with so few lobes, always surprise me when the cover comes off, compared to modern engines.
I really enjoy these videos, with his vast experience and enthusiasm for whatever he’s working on.
Your video brings back memories of my rebuilds on my 1965 & 1966 S types motors and restoration process.
What a wonderful way to learn about XK engines.
Great work, I’m from Coventry where this was made and have grown up with Jaguars. I liked the care taken with this strip down and very impressed with the 1950’s engineering.
I've developed a fascination for vintage car engines quite late in life and I find your videos easy to follow and very enjoyable. I look forward to hearing that fine old Jaguar engine purr once again.
For an old guy like me it is hugely entertaining to see this job done so well ! Wish I had the facilities and tools to do it myself still, but your video is a tremendous replacement and very educational..... keep doing these great jobs. Probably a useful suggestion is to maintain a website with additional notes on details, plan, parts etc. for those who like the same challenge in future!
I love how every step is explained in a very pleasent way. Great editing too. It feels more like watching a part of an art restauration process than a mechanical job. And doing this together with your dad is just awesome.
Having been raised working on big block Corvettes and restoring them for almost 40 years, and now working on LS and LT engines, it's cool to see something different. Very well done video. Entertaining and informative. Look forward to seeing the rest of the build.
The red stuff (paint) on your bell housing bolts stops them from reacting with the aluminium casing, steel + aluminium + water = galvanic corrosion.
Looks like "red oxide" (metal primer) paint.
@@_zzpza Red lead
Its red lead usually so don't breath in the dust,
I would say that is old school "Red Oxide " primer paint.
On boats you hang a lump of magnesium off the rail attached to the ground system to help prevent galvanic corrosion. They sell cast fish anodes for that purpose in marine shops. It can be a real surprise how fast those anodes disappear in some circumstances,
The careful and methodical disassembly technique added to the clear descriptions of rare early engineering technologies comes only after years of study and experience. It is difficult to imagine the heart of this old girl being in better hands. And thanks to dad too. He must be very proud.
Thanks Larry great to hear from you.
Nice!! Im 19, just finished up a 4.3 rebuild thats goin back into a S2 E-type, had no clue people would be so interested in this stuff! Makes me want to video the next engine overhaul, thank you for passing on the knowledge for those earlier XK engines! Cant wait to use this as a resource.
Cheers!
The cylinder head is very malleable, and as such can bend an example of that follows Here:
I was driving through the Pyrenees towards Southern Spain from France a few years ago, when my temperature gauge showed an alarming and rapid rise , and after several stop starts to refill the coolant, I ended up stopping at a gas station on the motorway close to Zaragoza with five hundred miles left to drive, I checked into the gas station motel, and proceeded to pull the head off the car in blazing sunshine, and with only a simple socket set and a few hand tools. From the motel phone I ordered a seven day delivery of a head gasket set, there was no other faster delivery possible in 1997, and I took off the head finding that it had warped almost a quarter of an inch higher in the centre making it banana shaped. The gasket set arrived, and it was fitted, but I tightened only the centre six bolts down to approximately 50pounds feet at a guess, and left it overnight. The next day those six bolts were loose, and I tightened them once again to 50lb./ft. and left it for a few hours. I repeated this on the six centre bolts for another three or four times, and finally, there was no more movement, the head was now firmly torqued up to the block, and I worked my way outwards to tighten the rest of the head bolts up to 50lb./ft. After another day, the bolts were holding their torque, and I gave them another little torque to approx. 55-60 lbs.ft. going by intuition , and then put the rest of the engine together in the usual way. After starting the engine, I ran it to get it hot, and discovered that the viscous coupling on the fan was slipping, and I unwound two of the four holding nuts out until they locked onto the fan pulley, locking the fan to run at engine speed. I drove the car ( A 3.4 litre XJ6 Coupe ) to Estepona five hundred miles further South, and that engine did another 30,000 miles without being touched, until I sold the car. Proving that aluminium cylinder heads can be carefully put together even when they are banana shaped.
I saw my first XK120 in my village of Houghton Regis, Bedfordshire, price £55 , i was a ten year old and pesterred my dad to buy it, wisely he didnt, but i got the bug, i am enjoying watching this video so much so a big thank you, from Cheshire UK
Came across this video unintentionally. Made me wish I had such a source of information some 50 years ago. Had an XK150 which dropped a big end not long after I purchased (second hand with a lot of Australian miles on). Started the rebuild then married. Never finished it, but did keep in touch with the purchaser for some years. Rebuilt to Concourse Condition over the following 15 years.
My dad did an overhaul on a 66 E Type V-12. Had to use the engines compression to blow them off. That was a neat learning experience for me!
I like how you opened this engine so carefully yet knowingly, you clearly know what you are doing and that fascinates me, thank you! It seems like you're caressing the engine! :)
Welcome back Richard, hope you and the family are keeping safe and well. Really loved this step by step on the old 3.5 XK engine, I had one complete with Moss gearbox sitting under my house for 25 years, guy that I bought a nice manual 1966 3.4S Type off threw it in with the deal, it even had a complete pair the early type "long neck" 1.75 inch SU carbs on it. I had to dump the whole thing when moving interstate. Yes, more please on all your jobs.
Thanks for the detailed process of this engine rebuild Richard - takes me back to my youth, when I worked on these engines back in the 1960s... as soon as I see the camshaft covers I'm back there 😊
I admit I have not seen any of your videos in a while, glad to see your dad is still staying busy. Thanks for sharing about this early engine. Charles
Thanks Richard ⚓️ Hi… I use scrap area rugs carpets under a block… carpet shops give them away ⚓️ also scrap leather…. Scissors up an old pair of boots… use the leather to cushion pliers/hammers… avoids tool marks 😮
I'm an Italian car guy. But, I love the jag engine! A really good dismantle and diagnosis. This guy is good. Thank you so much for a great video!
I love it. Looks so much like the first engine I ever rebuilt which was the 3.8L out of my '63 sedan circa 1972. Thanks for the memories. I finally smarted up and am currently rebuilding my '90 Toyota pickup which I bought new in 1990. Brits vs Japanese. Huge difference in engineering.
First time on here. You are an encyclopedia of knowledge and its fun to watch your skill at work. I will watch this through till the end.
"Otter switch"...Otter Controls, Buxton, Derbyshire...I was US rep for them in the 1990s...went to the factory several times. Spent a lot of time in Detroit with their sales and tech guys, calling on middle tier suppliers, and Ford, where we were warmly welcomed because one of the main SVT guys was a Brit! Moved a lot of Otter switches, mostly for window lift stall protection, but also some applications in coolant sensors, like the one shown here. I have an MGB that has one of the venerable disc switches mounted on the top of the radiator. It tickles me to see them! Otter was also really keen on tire temp and pressure sensing technology for a while, but the only application they found was in a few F1 race cars. Their system was over-specified for the mass market, however, so we never got them into US manufactured vehicles (but we had a time every spring in Detroit, displaying at the SAE for a week at Cobo).
It is great to see such an iconic car being brought back to life. Using as many of the original parts as possible just adds to the authenticity. I have just found your channel and it is really great. I am from the UK so it is very nostalgic to see something from "home" being worked on so lovingly. Thanks very much.
Great instructional video - I'm taking notes in prep for rebuilding my xk120 motor this summer !!!
So much knowlage needed to do this work. Awesome to see stuff like this being rebuilt for a new life.
Richard your knowledge is amazing. You would have been an excellent surgeon. Your attention to details and meticulousness are things that cannot be taught to residents. Either you have it or you don't. Love the videos. Keep em coming. More more more.
Excellent, thorough work. Ihave rebuilt many of these engines. I wish others worked as carefully as you do.
What a beautiful engine. Looking forward to seeing this one finished.
Brilliant job. So nice to see a professional restoration! Thank you.
Old Jaguars are great looking cars:) if only I had all the monies, lots of old cars in my museum garage and a small apartment/studio sized living area inside to overlook all the cars lol
Nice detailed video, yes please do follow up on this engine build. Nice to see it get assembled and fired up! The red paint on the bolts is Red Lead paint for an anti corrosion. Usually used on ferrous marine applications.
@MichaelKingsfordGray yes it it just don’t lick it! It’s perfectly safe to use!
Yes, please more of these great narrated videos! Love it to learn more about Jaguar history. Big thumbs up!
Definitely want to see the rest of the motor build. Am following this build, can't wait to see the finished vehicle.
This engine brought back some memories. I had a friend in New Rochelle High School in the mid seventies
who was rebuilding an old Jaguar like this one. I remember what surprised me was the cylinders
were the size of paint cans.
This is fantastic Richard! I have a 61 Mark 9, I've got the 3.8 out and I am going to start getting it ready for rebuild. Your video is very informative! My Dad had a 57 drophead coupe.
If you type " 1961 jaguar factory tour " you will see these engines and jaguar cars being made.
Great to see these guys saving one 👍
Yes Glen the 1961 Factory Tour video is a real gift. Too bad it doesn't cover more E-Type production.
Very interesting, thank you and it would be great to see the next steps in the rebuild of this engine. Kind regards, Richard.
Certainly do want to see it taken through to completion. Really interesting, thanks.
Definitely want to see all of the things you mentioned. From parts to machining.
Great job 🇬🇧
Another really interesting video, thanks, and definitely would like to see more as the rebuild proceeds.
That engine is from a time when they were built by real craftsmen, time served apprentices of seven years who knew what they were doing! I'm glad there are people like you who are prepared to spend the time (and the money!) to rebuild and preserve technology like this. Yes, I would like to see much more of how this project developes, with as much detail as you have the time and patiencce to include please. I have subscribed!
Yep parts wouldn't interchange, being a do-all
approach meant added expense with no gain
in performance or durability, Companies like
Packard had machine tolerances to +/-0.00002 ",
and parts machine made are also cheaper yet
of superior durability.
You video reminds me of a XK 120 drop head coupe that my Dad and my brothers and I found in a salvage yard in the early 1960s. It had a cracked block that my dad welded. We got it running and driving but it was undependable for my brother to drive to collage. He ended up selling it in 1967 for $750. We did not know what we had.
DHC are the hardest to restore, when I see a nice one I pay attention :)
Good to see you back Richard, love to see the rest of the engine build, and good to see a box of Yorkshire tea in the background 👍
These videos are so well done as is the careful methodical work on these beautiful works of auto art. Please keep it going Mr. Owen. Thank you so much for your hard work and sharing!!
Hi Richard, my body was built in 1952, so this engine is as old as I am, and probably in better shape! 😊 love these videos, compelling, can’t wait to see the next instalment. All the way from New Zealand.
Love it. Old school stuff. Remember it well. Got to show us the rebuild and finished project. Good work.
Thank you for getting back to me. Must say your channel is very professional and enjoyable to watch. Look forward to future videos.
Very interesting impressive and thorough work. I have done this myself over the years right from messing it all up in my teenage years and 30 years down the line on my XK150 that I still own. I did rebuild my engine again some years back to +030 and crank regrind. Fortunately the thrust was ok. I did use specialist machine services to rebuild the head and it runs well. However after seeing this and your other videos the level of your work far exceeds what I did certainly in the cleanliness department. I'm a great believer in running the engine foe a few hours and immediately changing the oil and filter. Just cant take the risk of the pressure relief valve getting some grit under it or damage from some lurking grit. I like all the details you show.
The care and respect that you give to these very old machines is both fascinating and heartwarming at the same time. (If I was Director of antiquities restoration at the Louvre, I would confidently sign the Mona Lisa over to your Department!) - Stay blessed and well both of you....🙏🇬🇧
Great video thx, looking forward to see what's up next 👍😊
I really enjoy your posts and I have worked for Jag for a while in the '70s and am now putting my third personal 120 back together. My '50 had the old style bell housing, the high top carbs, the early block, the whole early "kit". It was fascinating. By the way, if anyone has an early oil pump let me know, should be the same as a MKVII.
Richard - Definitely want to see the full rebuild of this engine. Will really be interested to see if your machine shop can save the head. Could not believe how easy the engine came apart, especially with all the internal rust.
I was having the same thought, amazing how easily a 70 year old engine from a neglected car came apart. Probably a combination of luck and a mechanic who really knows what he's doing... A joy to watch.
Great to see you back! (as this engine was made in England, it's made from Aluminium, not Aluminum LOL!!)
Very very cool and really glad that you're doing back to original. When you get older in life, you appreciate the originals. Driving them today will take some modifications but you can retain most of the original car. These 3 1/2 and 4.2 6s are a true hemi engine for the pistons are domed and the heads are domed.
My brother rebuilt my 53 XK120 Drophead Coupe back in 1968 so yes I’m interested to watch you finish this project 😀
Good to see you back on the screen Richard. I've just rebuilt my 1950 120 engine - studless cam covers, bow front engine mount etc. - so it'll be interesting to see how you tackle this. Looking forward to more on the 150.
Tim, great to have you along, so your engine probably has even earlier details like the smaller water pump, the earlier block, 6-bolt flywheel?
@@RichardMichaelOwen Indeed, plus tall dashpot carbs and the deeper cast aluminium sump. Good luck with the oil level float mechanism. I could never get mine to stop leaking. I've had some aluminium blanks made up to go over the hole. If you find yourself in a similar position and want one just let me know.
Thanks for a very interesting and well made video Richard.
A few years back I refreshed my 4.2 Etype, the engine was a joy to work on.
Yep! Wanna see more! It's been 40 years since I rebuilt a Jag... a couple of sixes and one V12 back in the day. The sixes were good memories that this brings back. The V12 was the stuff of PTSD. Imagine a '70s V12 overheated to seizure.
I’ve never watched your channel. This video was suggested but after watching the entire video I’m subscribed and really hoping you follow up with this one. Thanks for taking the time to record it!
Red oxide primer, here used as rust protective coat. Give my regards to this FHC long-time curator. He purchased my 54 DHC, last time I visited seen in his outbuilding 35+ years before! Also greatly enjoyed the alloy-body episode, that car from my pal in the past near Seattle, named MJ. I'm still piloting an XK8 convertible as weekend car! XKs are timeless. Regards-
I love these detailed tear downs. Keep up the great content. Keep Safe Richard, love from England
I did not realize how close the Jag XX engine is to the Coventry Climax FWA. Please please do more videos of the rebuild. Thanks. Great video.
Fascinating. Keen to see the next episode, and to see more of the XK150 rebuild.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a much later (1963) 3.8 XK engine I need to refurbish. You have given me a lot of invaluable info.
Excellent, so very interesting, please show as much as you can, it is all very much appreciated.
We want more videos !! Please. The XK for sure and the 1952 engine as well. We can’t wait for so long the best Jaguar videos on TH-cam... yours 🤗
Vapor blasting is the way to go, glass bead with water, everything stays nice and cool, no dust or grit, beautiful finish.
The shifting spanner you used for the distributor drive looked positively ancient, I have some which belonged to a Grandfather who was a steam engineer!
Well made video, your experience and knowledge is evident during engine disassembly, what a beautiful old engine and car.
It's really sad to see vintage tech deteriorating because people did not take good care of it - why not use antifreeze?
Loving your restaurations, thanks for making videos!
Very interesting. Looking forward to seeing how things progress.
Yes please, would love to see another follow up video on the classic master piece.
Hi Richard, your videos are my all time favourite, this is great food to see one through covid lock down, keep bringing them on!
Wow such a teaser, yes, please finish the rebuild of the engine as well as the fixed head coupe😊👍
Great video Richard! I've had a few apart myself and wish I had seen this before I did it. Nice to see what's important and not, what procedures are a must and what isn't. Can't wait to see it run, that moment everyone anticipates when it comes alive.
One of the most beautiful mass produced engines built.
Superbly interesting content Richard, great to see you back with another fantastic project.Love the traditional ' quiet ' practice using hand tools and a methodical , careful approach to avoid damage to rare parts.Although not a Jaguar expert , I have a good deal of experience working on a late 1920s Rolls-Royce Phantom engine and can see similarities in ' old school ' engineering !.Looking forward to the next episode.
Yes, follow the rebuild with more videos up to and when started first time. I hope you can keep the entire engine!
Yes please bring us along on this journey. cheers.
I can't wait to see this motor restored, tuned and running!! I want to see you guys driving this car already!! Can't wait!! Looking forward to the notification of the next video being posted!!
Subscribed, you do a good job of explaining even though you must be very busy. Enjoying watching you rebuild old motors, especially Jags.
So far so good! Keep going on the XK 120.
JIM
We enjoyed seeing the last one (the junk E type),this is just as interesting,your skill and paitience are inspiring,please keep up the good work,thaks and thubs up...
i could settle down and watch these two special guys 24/7 with their restorations, its a science
Yes! I'm diggin' this project. Love to see it through.
Richard, Greetings to you. I was astonished when you showed the Engine number of W4520-8, I thought to myself, err, 'ang on there one minute, that sounds familiar.
I stopped the video and I went and checked the engine number of the Studless Cam engine I am at present readying to re-assemble, and it is W4519-8! Small world.!. :))
I bought the engine from a chap in Norfolk who bought 3 containers of early XK engines and stuff from a closing down parts business in the US a few years back.
The engine will be going into my 1952 XK120 OTS that I bought in 1972. It should have engine W4368-7 which would also have been a studless cam cover.
The car came with a later XK engine which has since gone west and I am at present driving it on a 1963 MkII 3.4. It will be nice to get it looking correct under the bonnet again.
Regarding the 1/2 moon engine front mounting plate you mentioned, that is what I am using and it has never given any problems with 45 years of driving. Loved the video.
Fred small world thanks for watching. I am looking for proper studless cam cover gaskets if you run across any.
@@RichardMichaelOwen I will be going to Jaguar Spares Day next weekend and will be looking out for some for myself.
I did use the very thick sheets of protective card that they use to cover Bananas in boxes from my local supermarket to cut out as a template to make standard Cam Box gaskets when the old ones leaked and needed replacing. They work a treat. Will keep you posted.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Hi Michael, I tried to get studless cambox gaskets from SNG Barrats at the Jaguar Spares day. They had the Pt No listed, but it referred to the later type. I will have to make my own out of a long piece of thick gasket paper.
I had my damper re-rubberized if you like I will find out where I got it done, as I know you like to keep as much original as you can.
Yeah that's a great idea. Later found out these are readily available brand new. Looks like they didn't change the design until the 4.2 came out!
@@RichardMichaelOwen Mine was done at .
Damper Doctor
1055 Parkview Ave.
Redding, CA 96001
530-246-2984
Cost me $289 incl. shipping but that was a few years ago (2016)
Very interesting! Cylinder 1's oil feed has to pass through all sludge traps in the cranckshaft, it seems. That could possibly be the reason why there seems to be work done on cylinder 1, and the furthest main. Thank you for the video!
Richard, as others have said, would definitely like to follow the progress of the XK120 engine rebuild. Nice to see that the 150 bodyshell is back from Jason and that's a very tasty looking TR2 in the background!
Great video! Definitely want to see more.
Sure do want the rest of the story. I rebuilt a Jag 6 in about 1966. Not this engine, similar but more sophisticated, probably a XK140 or 150. I remember being delighted with the design, and the rebuild turned out well. We had many fewer issues since the engine we worked on was in good shape and running, but off it's feed, needed valve work mostly. We replaced rod and main bearings, rings but not the pistons which were in good shape. As I recall the cam bearings were fine, we may have replaced them but I don't remember.
There is one thing I hope you can shed light on. This was my first Jaguar engine rebuild. We had the shop manual, and carefully followed the specs, but when we came to finishing the valve work, the manual said "do not lap the valves". We looked at each other and "What??" We always lapped valves carefully, considered it a final touch of precision and pride. We talked about the issue every which way, and finally lapped the valves. We simply could not imagine why that was in the manual. The engine worked great, we double checked the clearances, and there was no problem. The customer was happy. The engine was happy, we were happy.
Any light to shed?
Hi James yes I prefer to lap valves to verify the fit. Fresh from the machine shop with a triple-angle cut, it probably doesn't need it.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Well, we were the machine shop, did the 3 angle work, and still always lapped. Don't like "probably" when I'm working on machinery. Although once in a while you can't get away from it. I wound up answering a frantic "help!!" message from a friend of a friend up in the mountains in Big Sur. Found him, his girlfriend, and an urgent need to move - with an old Plymouth six - about a '49, with a knocking rod. NO parts for miles, no money. Took off the pan and found a spun insert and lots of nasty on the crank journal. Had emery paper and a mike. Spent quite a while getting the crank round and smooth again, and asked the guy if he had a really strong leather belt. Yup, I had heard the story sometime, so I cut a bearing out of his belt, cinched it down with the rod cap, got the pan back on with a lucky tube of sealant and the old gasket, and took a deep breath. Fired it up, and it ran just fine. I told him to keep the revs down and go as easy as he could. Last I heard he made it back to civilization, and was very grateful. I heard it worked a lot longer than any of us thought it would. (When I heard the story about the leather rod bearing, I can remember being super dubious - but there I was, with nowhere else to go. And it worked. Phew.)
So any idea why the Jag shop manual had that "don't lap" note in it?? If you have an old shop manual I bet you can find the note in the valve section.