Forty years as a machinist has taught me that rusted bolt removal is never easy. I start with a soaking of pb blaster. Your can spray the backside where the thread is exposed, when the caliper is removed. Using a hammer impact driver works sometimes. If this method does not work, a small tip oxy acetylene torch can be used to heat a very small area near the threads. DO NOT overheat. A water soaked rag should be packed in to prevent the heat from reaching the bearings. Do not quench, this will change the hardness of the flange, making it brittle. Installation of the new t 50 bolt should be accompanied with never seize, on the threads and mating surfaces. Good luck!
Looks like you skipped over checking the brake fluid level before backing in the caliper piston. Did the fluid overflow the reservoir after you did that?
Hey Mazzini, it did not as no fluid was added to the car, so the level simply went back to normal after the brake job. Great note to point out though, something we try to cover on more recent videos.
A flathead screwdriver is good for leveraging the pistons back, the trick is to do it when the old pads and rotors are still fitted.
100%
Thank you - just about to replace a friends rear discs and pads on an R56 Cooper D int he UK - this is super clear thank you.
Glad it helped!
What's the best method to deal with seized retainer screws for the rotor? I've broken 2 T-50's so far. Am I stuck to just drill them out?
Forty years as a machinist has taught me that rusted bolt removal is never easy. I start with a soaking of pb blaster. Your can spray the backside where the thread is exposed, when the caliper is removed. Using a hammer impact driver works sometimes. If this method does not work, a small tip oxy acetylene torch can be used to heat a very small area near the threads. DO NOT overheat. A water soaked rag should be packed in to prevent the heat from reaching the bearings. Do not quench, this will change the hardness of the flange, making it brittle. Installation of the new t 50 bolt should be accompanied with never seize, on the threads and mating surfaces. Good luck!
Awesome video!!!!
Thank you for watching!
Looks like you skipped over checking the brake fluid level before backing in the caliper piston. Did the fluid overflow the reservoir after you did that?
Hey Mazzini, it did not as no fluid was added to the car, so the level simply went back to normal after the brake job. Great note to point out though, something we try to cover on more recent videos.
@@fcpeuro did you take the reservoir cap off to help the air escape?