This is all true. However I believe that we have compromised our surfing by getting so low in volume. Example , mason hoe on his 7'6 at pipe tottaly dominated the tubes that day. I'm sure his father taught him well. Ya he can do it on any board but , when you see people people's board speed wobbling in the tube and having to do 2 bottum turns to get up the face , the board is to small for the speed of the wave. Then when they turn the board or the rider can't handle keeping the rail in the water and it wants to not stick with you. Curren, Carrol and Mark Richards never had a problem turning a 6'4 or even a 6'6 . I know they didn't do airs either. Just don't compromise your surfing for years by riding a 5'8 in 6 to 8 foot surf. Your only hurting yourself and catching less waves. These guys know what there talking about
3:30 “a lot of the good guys are riding smaller boards in bigger waves” meanwhile I’m trying figure out dims of a step up so I can ride bigger waves lol
Isn't it also where u sit and approach. If u want to sit inside a little and drop in under the lip u need a lot of rocker and smaller board. If u want to get pitted and not fly past the bowl a smaller board helps. If your heavier and sit outside its a little different, ya no?
Not necessarily. Boards can have more nose rocker and/or less tail rocker therefore shifting that low point. Also, some boards have a very low or flat rocker making that "low point" a larger area on the bottom of the board. It varies from model to model.
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Another brilliant film. Well done guys, absolutely superb series.
Mahalo!!
This is all true. However I believe that we have compromised our surfing by getting so low in volume. Example , mason hoe on his 7'6 at pipe tottaly dominated the tubes that day. I'm sure his father taught him well. Ya he can do it on any board but , when you see people people's board speed wobbling in the tube and having to do 2 bottum turns to get up the face , the board is to small for the speed of the wave. Then when they turn the board or the rider can't handle keeping the rail in the water and it wants to not stick with you. Curren, Carrol and Mark Richards never had a problem turning a 6'4 or even a 6'6 . I know they didn't do airs either. Just don't compromise your surfing for years by riding a 5'8 in 6 to 8 foot surf. Your only hurting yourself and catching less waves. These guys know what there talking about
🤙🏼
Thanks Glen. Appreciate this
Whaaaaat "what", Gangster!!!! Thxxxxxxxx!!!!!!!
Thanks for these videos!
No worries!
3:30 “a lot of the good guys are riding smaller boards in bigger waves” meanwhile I’m trying figure out dims of a step up so I can ride bigger waves lol
Haha 🤣 🤙🏼
I think concave in the nose stops the board from dropping in to the wave vs. a board that doesn't have concave up front. Opinions?
Isn't it also where u sit and approach. If u want to sit inside a little and drop in under the lip u need a lot of rocker and smaller board. If u want to get pitted and not fly past the bowl a smaller board helps. If your heavier and sit outside its a little different, ya no?
🤙🏼
Thanks for the great video
Our pleasure!
Adding more curve is faster in curvier waves. Flat boards in curvy waves are horrendous.
Where the lowest point of rocker, or the biggest radius curve is located? Exactly centered?
Not necessarily. Boards can have more nose rocker and/or less tail rocker therefore shifting that low point. Also, some boards have a very low or flat rocker making that "low point" a larger area on the bottom of the board. It varies from model to model.
What about drag and release off rails tail etc
We will be creating more videos covering other topics such as rails! Stay tuned!
Listen to man...
No doubt 🤙🏼