Will this solve the condensation problem in my Crafter campervan?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- After being surprised by the discovery of condensation on the roof of my van, I formulated a plan on how to solve it.
Do you think this will work? Leave me a comment down below to let me know!
Follow me on Instagram: / crafty_camper
Support me on Patreon: / crafty_camper
Music from #Uppbeat:
uppbeat.io/t/m...
License code: YPOOPYYRYANQQYIU
Music from #Uppbeat:
uppbeat.io/t/r...
License code: A8HT000Y6K5XM0PE
The best way I found to combat condensation and moisture in my Sprinter van was to use the original manufacturers headliner. It breathes, insulates and is a good sound deadener. I still used 10mm insulated mat on the metal. Another plus is it’s extremely light compared to what I see other builders use ie: timber battens and panels.
Looks good to me. A vacuum or air circulation is by far the best way to stop condensation.
Just passing by... if you'd remove the headliner closed cell foam you'd find condensation under it. There is non on top of it because it is an insulator and the dew point is not reach on the inside of the van where temperature is higher than on the metal surface (which is underneath the headliner). The only real way to prevent condensation on metal is to totally isolate it from the humid air using vapor barriers. If there are any spots at all where humid air will reach the metal, it'll most probably condensate on it.
Armaflex have 32 mm thick rolls of insulation, thats what I would use instead of those rigid foam boards.
I would also remowed the sounddeadening mats. (The Armaflex mat alone create a quieter surface)
And I think it´s important to paint or oil all wood faceing the metal, and above the wapour-barrier. Also cover any thruhole bolts and nuts with silicone to prevent coldbridges.
I lived in a fridge van,which was Very well insulated all over but I still had to wipe down the wet walls every day, also reflective bubble wrap is only any good in a window to reflect the sun away,what can it reflect inside the van might as well just use bubble wrap,and I've found that the aluminium tape gets wet because it's aluminium.The best thing I've found for condensation is a desiccant dehumidifier,it sucks cold damp air in and blows warm dry air out but you need power to make it work.condensation in a van in England is a nightmare buddy.
Yeah I bet a fridge van brings its own problems! I don't really want a dehumidifier running all the time, as long as there isn't moisture on metal to cause rusting I think I can live with a small amount.
Condensation is the bane of my life!
If you haven't already got one, try a Karcher window vac for windows. So much quicker, plus you can pour the water down the drain or outside to physically remove it from the van.
@@CraftyCamper That's definitely on my shopping list
looks good from here
Hi, just come across your channel by chance as I’m at the same stage of insulating my ceiling on my build, and you’ve definitely given me some food for thought on the condensation issue, I think you’ve done the right thing with cell foam insulation,.. I’ve done my walls with it and I get no wetness there, so I’ve been thinking that I should do the ceiling too before cladding.., but I’m thinking of , like you, cell foam first then PIR.., then a layer of ‘Tyvek’. Which is a breathable material ( mostly used in building trade) it works like gortex, allows moisture out but never in , so I’m thinking that should ever condensation form on ceiling it should ( theoretically) be able to escape, like a goretex jacket does on a wet day. This is only a theory I’ve never seen anyone do it (yet) on a van build.., but it works really well in my shed , 3 years later never condensates in there.
But enjoying your channel, I’ll be keen to see the final weight load. Good luck.
My (work in progress) Crafter conversion drips condensation from the single skin metal with bolts sticking out over the sliding door. Still scratching my head on how to finish that neatly.
I hope you find a solution!
Your plan sounds spot on to me. I’ve been thinking about similar issues and my research lead down the rabbit hole of flat roofing on houses. The cold roof approach to those have the same issue of “sweating” in winter on the underside of a cold surface if inadequately ventilated. Whereas a warm roof, where the insulation is next to the uppermost external surface is the same approach as van builds. So I think the closed cell foam is exactly correct as it will create a gentle thermal gradient from the outside to the inside rather than a massive thermal difference which causes the inside surface to be below the dew point and thus condensation to form even when the van isn’t in use. Ideally you want to avoid any air gaps caused by the ridges in the roof vs the flat cellotex but gut feel suggest that as the overcab area was ok, if your closed cell foam is of a similar thickness and performance you’ll be fine. Plus of course you have the belt and braces of stopping warm moist air getting up there via the double bubble acting as a vapour barrier. Actually doing this rebuild now is better as it’s winter than doing so in summer because even though the ambient air might feel more humid, the weight of water vapour held in every m3 of air for the same relative humidity measurement is lower than in the summer… because the warmer the air the more moisture (by weight) it can hold for the same relative humidity value. In other words unless you can remove all the air from the van whilst rebuilding it!!! You’re bound to trap a tiny bit with the vapour barrier but than tiny bit will be even less in weight terms than had you done the refit in summer, not that it will be an issue anyway, just theoretically interesting (I’m a science nerd!) All the best for the rest of the refit, really enjoying the methodical approach you’re taking and the honesty in taking us all along with you, really helpful for others thinking about the same issues :) thanks
Thanks, I'm glad I am not the only one who is thinking along these lines! I hope you enjoy watching the rest of the build, I'm just fumbling my way through as I go along really!
Dealing with a similar concern here. I bought a government van where they spray foamed the walls and ceiling....great, something I don't have to do, but then they used rivetted aluminum paneling on the both the walls and ceiling. Its was high end excellent quality that was performed by the contractor.
My concern is how the aluminum paneling on the inside will affect the interior gradients between the ceiling. Will the spray foamed surface suffice? I am thinking of sealing up all of the paneling as much as I can. or should I let it breathe? It would be a shame if I had to take out the panel work they did....
@@vanlifeadjustments I’d be concerned about thermal bridging if the rivets are very close to the external surface ie cold/damp spots on the inside and energy being lost to the outside, but other than that I don’t think I’d worry about aluminium on the internal surface, sounds v practical. Metals conduct heat really well, but assuming your internal aluminium skin has the spray foam insulation directly behind it then it won’t be conducting heat anywhere so that material property doesn’t matter :) If however there is a gap between the spray foam and the internal aluminium and the spray foam isn’t very deep then theoretically the aluminium could get cold and thus condensation form on it. Maybe try measuring temperature differentials between the outside and inside surfaces in roughly the same spot, and working out how cold it would have to be outside to hit the dew point inside your van (lots of dew point charts online)? Hope I’ve understood your scenario and provided a useful view. Best wishes.
Thank You! @@CaraVanOlogywithBecky
Thermoking said can they borrow your triple stage insulation design for their next range of freezer trucks 😁.
Should be toasty warm with that. 👍🏻
Haha I better get a patent then!
Best thing for the condensation is......
A karcher window hoover
Yeah we already have one of those! 🙂