Best warranty and costumer service i have ever experienced scope would not hold zero called customer service had a new scope the next day that was a step above what I had and I live in Mississippi which is not a short distance unbelievable i am a vortex fan
My biggest question was answered at 6:50 of this video. When you make adjustments, you are moving the "point of impact" NOT the center of the cross hairs. How many times did I make adjustments just to find out it was hitting even further away opposite the bullseye? So if you are "hitting high and to the left", make adjustments down and to the right". At 8:18 you hit to the right and said you need to adjust "back to the left" but you have to actually adjust "right" to move point of impact. So many other videos I watched didn't clarify this. Thank you.
Thank you for the simple and straight forward explanation! This is a confusing topic for me so I really appreciate the step-by-step instructions with explanation. Wishing you all the best!
The best basic setup and, thorough explanation of steps to sight in accurately! Never knew the process and, when the range opens after the rain, I'll be enjoying knowing that I've successfully set up scope to accurately use when hunting game with positive results...knowing that it will be "me" and not the rifle or scope that us the issue!
Bought this for varmit plinking! The scope is great for the money and accurate. I zero'd it in, and no problems going out of zero or focus! Wonderful price, quality, and product!
Another thing i like to do is firmly grip the scope and ensure that it is sturdy, i have a savage 6.5 Crd Mre. And when i zeroed it the first time a few months ago i was excited as it was my first time shooting it but to up the anti, i was loosing daylight fast so i rushed it i used a series of tools to ensure the rings were square on the picatinni rail base (provided by savage) with 20 MOA, I thread locked my ring screws but forgot the BASE ones and needless to say when i tried to confirm my zero yesterday the base was loose and it was pointless shooting so i will try again. Thanks for all your info !
Brian Litz, Applied Ballistics, recommends always zeroing at 100yds vs 200, 300 etc. After traveling, always confirm zero. Guide, PH, your destination usually has 100 target for confirmation. At 100, minimum parameters impact the zero process....minimal wind, sighting error, etc.
Hi guys thanks for your interesting subjects.. I watch all your podcasts on Spotify.. I need you guys to help me on something happen to me in 45 years of hunting and now I don’t only hunt but I’m really getting into long range shooting.. my vortex scope the viper 5-25x50 PST …FFP Gen 2 And could not make my turret for my windage .. I wasted half a day trying everything to make it move left .. or any direction.. the crosshairs would not move period.. It’s my first really long range shooting.. because most of my other rifles have leupold .. maximum 3x18 and never had one issue.. what could have caused my turret turning but crosshairs not budging… thanks guys Best regards Joe
@@igorbukhantsov neither did I… one of my cheaper scopes doesn’t do it but sure enough my Vortex Rimfire does…. I thought at first that was just in case the knob was slippery or something and you wanted to use a tool or a cartridge to turn them. A lot of smaller optics like red dots and stuff require a tool to adjust the zero so you can’t accidentally adjust your turrets.
Wonder what the percentage is of people sighting in correctly versus the " over the hood of my truck" scenario? Or the best one- off hand at 30 yards! Love all my vortex scopes and binoculars. Just great equipment in all price ranges
So I purchased the Vortex Viper HS 4-16X44. I zeroed my rifle Tikka T3X Lite in 6.5 Creedmoor with 0 MOA Talley rings at 100 yards. It’s advertised that the scope total elevation is 50 MOA but I counted all the MOA’s from bottom all the way up is 64.25, so my question is, is there such thing as having more MOA’s for elevation as what it’s advertised?
Yes, that is very common. We are pretty conservative with the numbers we publish, so on that optic you will have at least 50 MOA. It is very common to have more than that though.
My Viper PST Gen II 3-15x44 FFP is speced for 75 MOA of elevation adjustment. It actually had 84 MOA of adjustment. So after backing the zero stop off, I ran it down to the bottom and then up 42 MOA (half of 84) to begin with the reticle centered. On a rifle with 20MOA of elevation built into the rail or the scope mounts, I would have come up 22MOA from the bottom (42-20) to get a ballpark scope reticle lining up before the initial bore sighting.
for a rzr zero stop scope, do you remove the top elevation turret when firing rounds for sighting in?, also if you remove the clicking screws on the base elevation turret to bore sight, are you able to fire rounds without the set screws on the inner elevation turret?
Once you’ve sighted your scope how do you stop it from getting bumped and the turrets from turning etc I’ve always used the older scopes with the old coin style to adjust etc and caps to protect them I’m looking at getting a scope like this once sighted how do I stop it from turning etc ?
@@VortexOpticsUSA I’ve just ordered the vortex Dimond back tactical FFP EBR-2c MRAD I’ve only ever use the older scopes with the turrets that you can only turn with a coin or screw driver etc etc and was just wanting to know how you use this new one with out them turning and spinning after being sighted
@@matthewharrington3154 On that optic you can re-index the turret so that it is lined up with zero. This will serve as a reference point where you can simply look down and you'll be able to tell if it was moved or not.
So I just purchased a diamondback tactical 4x24-50 today and did not realize it didn’t have a zero stop prior to purchasing. My question is once you zero and they remove the turrets and orientate the turrets to that zero how do I prevent myself from going beyond my zero if I make adjusts?
The only time it really should be a concern is if you dial more than one complete rotation. If it is under one rotation you will simply need to remember to dial back down to align with zero. If you dial past one full rotation you will need to keep that in mind.
Hi guys my turret covers on my 3-18x44 sfp strike eagle does not have a slot head to remove to set zero. What other screens heads were used? It may be a torqux head or maybe Allen key. Hard to tell it's very small.
As long as you are using the center part of the reticle magnification will not matter. It's usually helpful to be at a higher magnification though as you can be a bit more precise.
On my vortex scope i have a distance adjustment. When i zero in at say.. 25 years with scope set to 25 and then go to 50 yards and adjust my scope to 50 yards my scope is WAY OFF… do i need to bring my scope in for repair?? That distance adjustment should work correctly but it doesnt…
Ok i saw something about sighting in. Think ive been doing it wrong. If im shooting low and left, i wanna adjust my scope low and left to bring my cross hairs into the center x. Correct?
I just bought the vortex viper pst 1-6. Can anyone tell me the recommended zero for this optic? I was thinking 100 yards. Also, its the mrad version. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Idk just getting into scopes n everything is pretty overwhelming...focal point.mrad moa...height wind left right focus magnification 😫...some scope dont have certain radicals or cross hairs...this rabbithole is ridiculous.. I'm stuck with leupold vx6HD and vortex razor light.for my sig cross .308.. that scope has some weird zero stop ring vs some with screws.... I feel I need a whole ass degree for this 😩
@vortex optics I am shooting a crossfire 2 what on the dial to move the scope does it have? Is it MOA? Can I reset zero on that scope? What is the math that I do do determine how many clicks to move the scope?
The Crossfire II uses an MOA turret system and reticle. You can reset the turrets to align the 0 with the indicator line, but it does not have a zero-stop.
Or if you dont want to waste an entire box of ammo. Fire the first shot.. Then put the rifle back in the rest and aim it at the bullseye. Now without moving the rifle adjust the scope reticals until the crossahairs are over the first shot. Your rifle is now sighted with one shot
We recommend taking the bolt out of the rifle to boresight or to break down the optic so you can align the bore with the target and then align the optic with the same target.
@@VortexOpticsUSA That’s all well and good if you’ve got a rifle that you can pull the bolt and be able to look down the barrel. With rifles like an AR-15 or, in my case a Mini-14, looking down the barrel at a target isn’t possible.
@@SargeUSMC With an AR-15 we would simple remove the upper from the lower and take out the BCG. You can then proceed to boresight as normal. The tough part with laser boresighters is that due machining tolerances they don't always align with the bore and when using them at close distances then can give skewed results. You would want to use them no closer than 50 yards like you would traditionally boresight.
Vortex Optics, using that rifle, scope & ammo = dead center @ 100 yards Then how much bullet drop @ 1 mile (assuming a perfect day) & how click turns up based on 1/4 click?
You can sight it in at either as magnification won't change your POI as long as you are using the center crosshair. I would recommend doing it at the highest though for the simple fact you can see your target up closer and be more precise.
Ring height really depends on a number of factors - medium height rings (like the ones used in this video) are most common for traditional bolt action style rifles.
easiest way to think of sighting a scope for me is the scope's cross hairs as "chasing" the impact point. Blue thread dressing on all mounting screws. Red is too permanent.
We would not recommend putting any Loctite or threadlocker of any kind on the ring screws. It acts as a lubricant causing the torque wrench to slip when mounting and will result in a false reading. Using Loctite can add about 40-50% extra torque to your value. Simply use the proper torque spec (15-18 in/lbs) is what will give you the most performance out of your optic.
@@VortexOpticsUSA I agree and should have stipulated my statement related to the heavy Burris Optics Eliminator II laser scope 4-16x50mm . The Eliminator scope series use "Direct Mount" clamps instead of rings. One inch risers are necessary for a picatinny rail mount compounding the problem. A poor engineering design. Without the loctite the screws consistently come loose. thanks
Hi. Please do not take this as a disrespect.. but I would like to point out to you that talking too much on video is no.. no. if need to talk and talk then that whst radio in for. Not video. Remember you talking to people who do not know anything about scope adjustment. So, talking about prism or so and MOA is worthless. You need to show it. That's what the video is for. Show how you adjust the knob (need close up). And how yhe clicks correspond to target inches. Some people are very knowledgeable but not good teachers. Then again some of us are not that knowledgeable but are very good teachers. As we older generation say..."Picture is worth 1000 words"
This is probably a stupid question but Idc. Is there anything u recommend if I don't have the bean bags? I want something accurate, but can't imagine they are cheap like any other gear.
Not a dum question. Me?? I take a bunch of those plastic grocery bags, and put gravel? Sand? Black dirt in 1. Then put that one inside several others, so if the bag with that stuff in it breaks? You won't have a mess. Good luck
Best warranty and costumer service i have ever experienced scope would not hold zero called customer service had a new scope the next day that was a step above what I had and I live in Mississippi which is not a short distance unbelievable i am a vortex fan
This is the simplist and most informative video ive seen explaining how to zero in a rifle scope. Thank you very much!
Your explanation and demonstration made this arduous task very simple! Thanks!
My biggest question was answered at 6:50 of this video. When you make adjustments, you are moving the "point of impact" NOT the center of the cross hairs. How many times did I make adjustments just to find out it was hitting even further away opposite the bullseye? So if you are "hitting high and to the left", make adjustments down and to the right". At 8:18 you hit to the right and said you need to adjust "back to the left" but you have to actually adjust "right" to move point of impact. So many other videos I watched didn't clarify this. Thank you.
I'll watch videos on this and think I understand and then do the opposite at the range lol
Thank you for the simple and straight forward explanation! This is a confusing topic for me so I really appreciate the step-by-step instructions with explanation. Wishing you all the best!
Glad you found this helpful! :)
One of the BEST tutorials I have ever seen! Excellent! Thank you for a quality product and quality videos.
Thanks for tuning in, Vince!
Thanks for an easy to follow and well described process that has been evading me for a month or two, great news.
This was awesome and very informative. Thank you for taking the time to put this together. Much appreciated!
The best basic setup and, thorough explanation of steps to sight in accurately! Never knew the process and, when the range opens after the rain, I'll be enjoying knowing that I've successfully set up scope to accurately use when hunting game with positive results...knowing that it will be "me" and not the rifle or scope that us the issue!
Great video, keeping it straightforward and simple
Bought this for varmit plinking! The scope is great for the money and accurate. I zero'd it in, and no problems going out of zero or focus! Wonderful price, quality, and product!
Another thing i like to do is firmly grip the scope and ensure that it is sturdy, i have a savage 6.5 Crd Mre. And when i zeroed it the first time a few months ago i was excited as it was my first time shooting it but to up the anti, i was loosing daylight fast so i rushed it i used a series of tools to ensure the rings were square on the picatinni rail base (provided by savage) with 20 MOA, I thread locked my ring screws but forgot the BASE ones and needless to say when i tried to confirm my zero yesterday the base was loose and it was pointless shooting so i will try again. Thanks for all your info !
Excellent quick tutorial. I just got a new rifle and the scope u are using in this video, I appreciate u bro,
Happy to help!
This is a great video. If you are having Heat issues, use a barrel cooler between firing each group
Outstanding video. Really explained a lot of things. Thank you.
Amazing , good shots and excellent explanations thank you
Brian Litz, Applied Ballistics, recommends always zeroing at 100yds vs 200, 300 etc. After traveling, always confirm zero. Guide, PH, your destination usually has 100 target for confirmation. At 100, minimum parameters impact the zero process....minimal wind, sighting error, etc.
Thanks mate very easily understood Steve from Australia
Thanks for info. I was hopeing you'd do a video explaining why you'd zero at different ranges but that will work for my new hunting rifle.
Excellent video, well explained. I feel confident to zero my scope after watching.
THIS IS A GREAT VIDEO , I Have to sight my New Rifle and Scope in so I will Look for Great Results from it . Thank you so much .
Good video, I am new to using a scope I think I have the basics now.
Hi guys thanks for your interesting subjects.. I watch all your podcasts on Spotify.. I need you guys to help me on something happen to me in 45 years of hunting and now I don’t only hunt but I’m really getting into long range shooting.. my vortex scope the viper 5-25x50 PST …FFP Gen 2
And could not make my turret for my windage .. I wasted half a day trying everything to make it move left .. or any direction.. the crosshairs would not move period..
It’s my first really long range shooting.. because most of my other rifles have leupold .. maximum 3x18 and never had one issue.. what could have caused my turret turning but crosshairs not budging… thanks guys
Best regards Joe
Very good presentation. It was clear and easy to follow. Thank you very much.
Happy to hear it! You're very welcome!
Thank you for the information, it's appreciated.
excellent !the reticle adjustment is also what adjusts your eye view from the scope eye piece?
Oh my god.... I never knew that’s what people meant by “resetting the turrets to zero.” I didn’t know you could take the knobs off and do that.....
I just realized that. Wow!
@@igorbukhantsov neither did I… one of my cheaper scopes doesn’t do it but sure enough my Vortex Rimfire does…. I thought at first that was just in case the knob was slippery or something and you wanted to use a tool or a cartridge to turn them. A lot of smaller optics like red dots and stuff require a tool to adjust the zero so you can’t accidentally adjust your turrets.
@@igorbukhantsovhuhhhhhhhhh
❤tirrruz❤ np😢tr
Awesome, I enjoy this I just put together my Aero Precision AR-10 with my Vortex Scope so I need to sight it in as a newbie, this was very helpful.
even the captions are applauding your shooting
One of the more understandable explanations on how to execute sighting a riflescope. Thank you for not speaking Greek.
You bet, John! Thanks for tuning in!
Can't wait to get my RAZOR HD Gen2!!
Perfectly as described!
Great Great Great video!! Thank you!!
Video starts at 4:35
Wonder what the percentage is of people sighting in correctly versus the " over the hood of my truck" scenario? Or the best one- off hand at 30 yards! Love all my vortex scopes and binoculars. Just great equipment in all price ranges
Great Video.
Thank you, I feel alot smarter
Good info explained well. Thanks
Bring the crosshairs to the shot not the shot to the crosshairs, it’s much faster.
Great stuff guys! Thank you!
@Vortex Optics when sighting in a riflescope, does it need to be done at maximum magnification? Thank you
Great video
Great information and video
Awesome video! Thank you.
Thanks for tuning in :)
Nice scope in vertex
very cool...thank you
Is there a recommended magnification at which the sighting should be done?
So I purchased the Vortex Viper HS 4-16X44. I zeroed my rifle Tikka T3X Lite in 6.5 Creedmoor with 0 MOA Talley rings at 100 yards. It’s advertised that the scope total elevation is 50 MOA but I counted all the MOA’s from bottom all the way up is 64.25, so my question is, is there such thing as having more MOA’s for elevation as what it’s advertised?
Yes, that is very common. We are pretty conservative with the numbers we publish, so on that optic you will have at least 50 MOA. It is very common to have more than that though.
My Viper PST Gen II 3-15x44 FFP is speced for 75 MOA of elevation adjustment. It actually had 84 MOA of adjustment. So after backing the zero stop off, I ran it down to the bottom and then up 42 MOA (half of 84) to begin with the reticle centered. On a rifle with 20MOA of elevation built into the rail or the scope mounts, I would have come up 22MOA from the bottom (42-20) to get a ballpark scope reticle lining up before the initial bore sighting.
If you are missing an inch to the right shouldn't you move the scope to the right? I'm so confused
for a rzr zero stop scope, do you remove the top elevation turret when firing rounds for sighting in?, also if you remove the clicking screws on the base elevation turret to bore sight, are you able to fire rounds without the set screws on the inner elevation turret?
Once you’ve sighted your scope how do you stop it from getting bumped and the turrets from turning etc I’ve always used the older scopes with the old coin style to adjust etc and caps to protect them I’m looking at getting a scope like this once sighted how do I stop it from turning etc ?
There would have to be a pretty significant bump to the turrets to get them to move that much off of zero. Which optic do you have?
@@VortexOpticsUSA I’ve just ordered the vortex Dimond back tactical FFP EBR-2c MRAD I’ve only ever use the older scopes with the turrets that you can only turn with a coin or screw driver etc etc and was just wanting to know how you use this new one with out them turning and spinning after being sighted
@@matthewharrington3154 On that optic you can re-index the turret so that it is lined up with zero. This will serve as a reference point where you can simply look down and you'll be able to tell if it was moved or not.
Is there a link to the video about why not to sight in from a lead sled as referenced in the video?
You bet - here it is: th-cam.com/video/upKdvaZLKOI/w-d-xo.html
So I just purchased a diamondback tactical 4x24-50 today and did not realize it didn’t have a zero stop prior to purchasing. My question is once you zero and they remove the turrets and orientate the turrets to that zero how do I prevent myself from going beyond my zero if I make adjusts?
The only time it really should be a concern is if you dial more than one complete rotation. If it is under one rotation you will simply need to remember to dial back down to align with zero. If you dial past one full rotation you will need to keep that in mind.
Hi guys my turret covers on my 3-18x44 sfp strike eagle does not have a slot head to remove to set zero. What other screens heads were used? It may be a torqux head or maybe Allen key. Hard to tell it's very small.
Some long range rifles like 338 Lapua depending on the optic really can’t use a zero stop
Does it matter on what magnification the scope is when zeroing it in?
As long as you are using the center part of the reticle magnification will not matter. It's usually helpful to be at a higher magnification though as you can be a bit more precise.
On my vortex scope i have a distance adjustment. When i zero in at say.. 25 years with scope set to 25 and then go to 50 yards and adjust my scope to 50 yards my scope is WAY OFF… do i need to bring my scope in for repair?? That distance adjustment should work correctly but it doesnt…
Ok i saw something about sighting in. Think ive been doing it wrong. If im shooting low and left, i wanna adjust my scope low and left to bring my cross hairs into the center x. Correct?
Great info!
That's damn fine shooting at a hundred yards what is that you're using
Thanks! :) We are shooting a Seekins Havak with our Razor HD LHT on top.
I just bought the vortex viper pst 1-6. Can anyone tell me the recommended zero for this optic? I was thinking 100 yards. Also, its the mrad version. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Is this the setup you used at the vortex extreme?
Other than your using a pistol bulls eye target, this good information. 😁
perfect
awesome vid owwwwwww !!!!
Idk just getting into scopes n everything is pretty overwhelming...focal point.mrad moa...height wind left right focus magnification 😫...some scope dont have certain radicals or cross hairs...this rabbithole is ridiculous.. I'm stuck with leupold vx6HD and vortex razor light.for my sig cross .308.. that scope has some weird zero stop ring vs some with screws.... I feel I need a whole ass degree for this 😩
Vortex < Tasco
@vortex optics I am shooting a crossfire 2 what on the dial to move the scope does it have? Is it MOA? Can I reset zero on that scope? What is the math that I do do determine how many clicks to move the scope?
The Crossfire II uses an MOA turret system and reticle. You can reset the turrets to align the 0 with the indicator line, but it does not have a zero-stop.
Or if you dont want to waste an entire box of ammo. Fire the first shot.. Then put the rifle back in the rest and aim it at the bullseye. Now without moving the rifle adjust the scope reticals until the crossahairs are over the first shot. Your rifle is now sighted with one shot
Never sight in with one shot. 3-shot group minimum. Your first shot could be a flyer.
The video link he mentioned about weighted vise use is not linked.
th-cam.com/video/upKdvaZLKOI/w-d-xo.html
Is the a recommended bullet weight/type for zeroing? Is match ammo better so sight in with?
It really depends on your application. You will want to use the same ammo though that you plan on hunting with or shooting with later.
Confirming zero with what ever ammo you plan to be using is the best practice
So u bring the hit marker to the point of aim..not the aim of point to the hit? I think thats where i get confused
The easiest way to not get confused is to think about where you need your POI (point of impact) to go.
Did you use a laser boresighter and, if so, which one?
We recommend taking the bolt out of the rifle to boresight or to break down the optic so you can align the bore with the target and then align the optic with the same target.
@@VortexOpticsUSA That’s all well and good if you’ve got a rifle that you can pull the bolt and be able to look down the barrel. With rifles like an AR-15 or, in my case a Mini-14, looking down the barrel at a target isn’t possible.
@@SargeUSMC With an AR-15 we would simple remove the upper from the lower and take out the BCG. You can then proceed to boresight as normal. The tough part with laser boresighters is that due machining tolerances they don't always align with the bore and when using them at close distances then can give skewed results. You would want to use them no closer than 50 yards like you would traditionally boresight.
Are you zoomed all the way in ?
set for 0,0 now all you need is a drop chart for your round and your all set =)
Is this rifle build listed anywhere?
Sigh. Why not LINK TO the bore sighting video in the description so I don't have to go looking for it?
Vortex Optics, using that rifle, scope & ammo = dead center @ 100 yards
Then how much bullet drop @ 1 mile (assuming a perfect day) & how click turns up based on 1/4 click?
how about an alternate i've read about - just move the cross hair to the first impact and your 90% done
Do you do this on maximum or minimum magnification?
Either, point of impact shouldn’t change based on magnification
You can sight it in at either as magnification won't change your POI as long as you are using the center crosshair. I would recommend doing it at the highest though for the simple fact you can see your target up closer and be more precise.
SALAM SATU LARAS 😊 saya dari indonesia 😊👍🏻👍🏻
How do you remove zero stop. Judt installed a new vortex
Hey Jim - that would depend on which scope you ended up getting. Give us a call at 1-800-4VORTEX ext. 5 and we will be able to help you out.
You never linked the video below...
What rifle are you using
This is the Seekins Havak
Ammo is too expensive to be shooting 5 times before adjusting! Lol
That scope looks to be mounted pretty high.
Ring height really depends on a number of factors - medium height rings (like the ones used in this video) are most common for traditional bolt action style rifles.
easiest way to think of sighting a scope for me is the scope's cross hairs as "chasing" the impact point. Blue thread dressing on all mounting screws. Red is too permanent.
We would not recommend putting any Loctite or threadlocker of any kind on the ring screws. It acts as a lubricant causing the torque wrench to slip when mounting and will result in a false reading. Using Loctite can add about 40-50% extra torque to your value. Simply use the proper torque spec (15-18 in/lbs) is what will give you the most performance out of your optic.
@@VortexOpticsUSA I agree and should have stipulated my statement related to the heavy Burris Optics Eliminator II laser scope 4-16x50mm . The Eliminator scope series use "Direct Mount" clamps instead of rings. One inch risers are necessary for a picatinny rail mount compounding the problem. A poor engineering design. Without the loctite the screws consistently come loose. thanks
❤👀❤ send me one for test Please 👍👍👍
I command a viewership 0f a Bazillion viewers so I will take that scope
"you may have heard is that we are shooting suppressed out here" .... no actually, I didn't hear a thing
I think u hit that sqrillel
Maybe that isn’t the right ammo for that gun?
Hi. Please do not take this as a disrespect.. but I would like to point out to you that talking too much on video is no.. no. if need to talk and talk then that whst radio in for. Not video. Remember you talking to people who do not know anything about scope adjustment. So, talking about prism or so and MOA is worthless. You need to show it. That's what the video is for. Show how you adjust the knob (need close up). And how yhe clicks correspond to target inches. Some people are very knowledgeable but not good teachers. Then again some of us are not that knowledgeable but are very good teachers. As we older generation say..."Picture is worth 1000 words"
ajust your scope to poi, then bring it to center. zeroed in
Why the heck you title this video as a “rifle” scope and put a still picture with an AR rifle and show video with a lR
Because an AR is a rifle and there is a riflescope (not IR) on top of it🙃
@@VortexOpticsUSA when sighting in a rifle scope, does it need to be done at maximum magnification? Thanks
My Vortex 1-4 x 24 Crossfire 2 sucks
I can barely see at 100 yards
I spent $200, Vortex is Overrated
This is probably a stupid question but Idc. Is there anything u recommend if I don't have the bean bags? I want something accurate, but can't imagine they are cheap like any other gear.
Not a dum question. Me?? I take a bunch of those plastic grocery bags, and put gravel? Sand? Black dirt in 1. Then put that one inside several others, so if the bag with that stuff in it breaks? You won't have a mess. Good luck
great video