I'm not sure if the holds that give you problems are exactly the same, or just similar in nature. Nevertheless, if I were to look at any hold, I would always assume that the best solution would be to position my body in such a way that I could lean or push "through the face" of the hold as much as possible. As soon as you move our body so that the hold is closer to your chest, it requires a much stronger grip to maintain enough friction. In the case of the yellow problem behind me that means, I would drop my shoulders below the starting rock so that I'm pulling down. I may have to twist myself sideways to fit under the hold if I'm too tall to squat face on to the wall. After that, it looks like the next big hold has a good face on the upper left hand edge (around 10 o'clock). That means I would try to position my body to the right and push with my left foot on the foot hold to create force into that side of the hold (rather than grab the top of the hold, which I happen to know from experience is not as positive). I hope that helps Troy. If you can show me a picture of the holds or a video of someone else climbing (or yourself) I might be able to give you better feedback. Cheers! - Dave
That's a good question, Mike! I'm not sure of the exact context in which you heard the phrase, but I imagine that this is exactly what the person meant (having the force go through the hold so that you get the most friction from your force). Good luck with your climbing! - Dave
This is suuuuuuuper helpful! Love how you going into the physics of climbing in a way that is easy to understand and apply!
this actually helps a lot, thanks!
Thanks! Good luck 👍
Very concise and helpful
0:40 I'd say surface (contact) area is another factor..
What about that yellow route? I need some help understanding how to hold the diamond like shaped holds? Thanks!
I'm not sure if the holds that give you problems are exactly the same, or just similar in nature. Nevertheless, if I were to look at any hold, I would always assume that the best solution would be to position my body in such a way that I could lean or push "through the face" of the hold as much as possible. As soon as you move our body so that the hold is closer to your chest, it requires a much stronger grip to maintain enough friction.
In the case of the yellow problem behind me that means, I would drop my shoulders below the starting rock so that I'm pulling down. I may have to twist myself sideways to fit under the hold if I'm too tall to squat face on to the wall. After that, it looks like the next big hold has a good face on the upper left hand edge (around 10 o'clock). That means I would try to position my body to the right and push with my left foot on the foot hold to create force into that side of the hold (rather than grab the top of the hold, which I happen to know from experience is not as positive).
I hope that helps Troy. If you can show me a picture of the holds or a video of someone else climbing (or yourself) I might be able to give you better feedback.
Cheers! - Dave
Matthew p the flexible human elastic is my brother I live in Ontario right now tho
Great info
Thanks 😀
Is this what “pull through the hold” means?
That's a good question, Mike! I'm not sure of the exact context in which you heard the phrase, but I imagine that this is exactly what the person meant (having the force go through the hold so that you get the most friction from your force). Good luck with your climbing! - Dave
Very useful :)
Thanks 😊
Very concise and helpful