Finishing the 6.5 x 55 Swedish Mauser with Aluma-Hyde 2 www.diy.timete... Brownells Aluma-Hyde II Epoxy Based Firearm Finish -amzn.to/40xuJZN DJI Osmo Action 5 Pro amzn.to/3DoaLIF
I used the good cold blue (Brownells) years ago. Plan B was to do what you did, but it worked well. Barrel came out like a good hot blue. Receiver was nice but lighter. Truoil on stock. 25 years of deer hunting and it still is in fine shape. Unbelievable the excellent work the Swedes do over 100 years ago.
@@jackpinesavage9806 I have had good luck with cold blue as well. It’s a different look than Aluma-Hyde. Both are good, but I think alums-Hyde is easier. I think blue is a little more scratch resistant.
I did hot blue years ago, I retired and now i parkerize for myself and friends. I relay like the Brownells parkerize solutions. I just bought a 96 and probably Parker the barreled action and small parts. I’ve done probably 20 M1 Garands, a few Mi1 Carbines, and several 870 duck guns. Down here is south Louisiana that marsh mud eats the bluing off of guns within a few years.
There's no need to bake DuraCoat. It does speed up the curing process, especially if you're doing more coats of different colors for a camo pattern, otherwise 24 hours it's cured enough for assembly.
I used the good cold blue (Brownells) years ago. Plan B was to do what you did, but it worked well. Barrel came out like a good hot blue. Receiver was nice but lighter. Truoil on stock. 25 years of deer hunting and it still is in fine shape. Unbelievable the excellent work the Swedes do over 100 years ago.
@@jackpinesavage9806 I have had good luck with cold blue as well. It’s a different look than Aluma-Hyde. Both are good, but I think alums-Hyde is easier. I think blue is a little more scratch resistant.
I did hot blue years ago, I retired and now i parkerize for myself and friends. I relay like the Brownells parkerize solutions. I just bought a 96 and probably Parker the barreled action and small parts. I’ve done probably 20 M1 Garands, a few Mi1 Carbines, and several 870 duck guns. Down here is south Louisiana that marsh mud eats the bluing off of guns within a few years.
@@PaulBellon-bg1yvI’ll have to look into the parkerizing if I do another
I have an 11-87 I’m thinking of phosphatizing but never done that. What chemicals do you use from Brownells? Just follow their instructions? Thanks.
Parkerize I meant, don’t know if there is much difference
That looks very nice Don!
Thank you
There's no need to bake DuraCoat. It does speed up the curing process, especially if you're doing more coats of different colors for a camo pattern, otherwise 24 hours it's cured enough for assembly.
@@yukon4545 thanks for the correction. It’s been a long time so either I forgot or Duracoat got better.
Did you bake the aluma hide ?
@@PaulBellon-bg1yv I assume you didn’t watch, it’s explained. The small pieces were backed, but not the barrel
@ yes I saw that towards the end after I asked the question. I was wondering if the barrel was baked, would the thinner still melt it down?
@@PaulBellon-bg1yv I may test that, because I was thinking the same thing, but they say once it’s cured it’s the same.