Escaping the system belaying in guide mode, and an alternative lowering method for ATC / Pivot etc..
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Escaping the system is very easy when belaying in guide mode, getting the belay plate back is a little more complicated, but nothing too stressful!
Kit in this video:
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So cool to see the crag from the drone.
Thanks for all the videos. I really enjoy them!
Absolute pleasure!
I was figuring it out yesterday after watching previous parts :D
Nice one! I guess with all this stuff you can never practice every last possible problem, but if you learn the principles you can mix and match to come up with a solution :)
Nice one Jez and congrats on the 3,000 plus subscribers 👏
A plea/idea for another video: Hoisting whilst on an Italian Hitch? I practiced the hoisting method on a belay plate yesterday (which went well) but when I tried to work out how to do that with an Italian it got confusing and gave me a headache! 🤣
The simple answer is.... it’s a ball ache. Realistically I’d change the system if I needed to haul...
Thank you as always for doing these videos!!!
My pleasure!
Can you make a video on how to prepare abseil when you have setup made from rope? I mean how to release rope and get ready to go down.
And also how to operate in one leads all scenario. For example I go up make rope belay setup, bring second up and then how to switch to me leading again?
I’ll see what I can do 👊
Hi Jez, great video! Could you please make a video on how to escape a multi pitch, I've just been wondering this. Thanks!
Have you seen the other escaping the system ones? I think they go in to this but I’ll look into doing a more specific vid :)
Hey thanks for the great vids! One question, what's your recommendation for abseiling if you lose your belay plate? I've always used an Italian hitch, but is that a problem when pulling the rope through after it gets twisted by the Italian hitch? I've seen a variation of the Italian hitch on the internet which avoids twisting the rope, I've also seen a 4 carabiner descender technique...
A tip (I think?), since you're doubling the sling anyhow, why not just basket hitch it to your clove hitch biner instead of adding a new biner? Since you're not clipping the sling you can easily put it "behind" your clove. Neither of them will be moving so rubbing should not be an issue there. Saves a piece of gear! More clutter in a biner, but less clutter in the anchor as a whole?
Should be faster to set up and faster to clean.
Yep can work! I think when learning / teaching it's a good idea to keep everything completely separate, and then you can start to refine things situation dependent.
Hi Jez, firstly, loving your videos! Keep up the great work. So, do you have any links on where to get the Simond Prusiks from, nobody seems to have any....cheers, Paul.
Decathlon sell them but I think they're out of stock... These things are super similar: www.alpinetrek.co.uk/beal-jammy-sewn-sling/#Q0C16294
I saw these, but really like the luminous yellow of the Simond ones haha
Hello there thanks for the very useful information! Trying to fully understand what is happening at 5:59 do you have a video on that specific section?
Great video. I have always wondered though, would it be easier to just leave your ATC in and do any further raps with spare HMS and an italian hitch? On routes that are long enough to necessitate taking a bag (for water etc) I've started chucking in a spare light ATC at the bottom (had two partners drop one mid route!), this spare ATC could again perhaps save some time IF you had it?
Cheers!
A spare ATC can definitely be a good idea if you’ve got a pack on and aren’t saving every gram. You will though normally need to strip as much as possible to retreat though, and if you need multiple abs then you’ll have to get everything stripped to turn it into a retrievable setup.
Hi Jez. So, from your vid, essentially, if you are belaying in guide mode, you are not part of the system, but you might not have a spare abseil device. The climber is already directly connected to the anchor, you transfer their weight using a prusik, so you can recover the guide plate, and they end up on a munter hitch, still on the anchor masterpoint, you are still connected by clove hitch, to the shelf.
At this point, say you couldn't get a response from the climber, you need to abseil down to check on them and maybe administer first aid, before deciding whether they can continue, or you need to lower or haul them to safety.
Which line do you abseil on?
Do you use the back of the munter mule, after isolating with another clove hitch, and do you stack the rope in a sling to take down with you, incase you need to setup hauling system?
Hi Jeffrey,
Yes on all counts!
Cool. I think I get it then, just need to go practice rescuing a haul bag a few times, to make sure...
Thank you for the very informative videos!
I'm wondering if there is a safe solution to the following situation.
What if I am sportclimbing (on lead or bottom rope) and I knock my belayer unconscious (for example as a consequence of a broken hold falling straight on him). Is there a safe way to escape the system if the rope is weighted and get back down to the ground?
Glad you liked it!
It's going to be a bit tricky. I think you'd have to get to a bolt to rig an abseil and then abseil yourself down. Hopefully there'll be someone else around to help...
Are those 8mm thick slings? Any advantages/disadvantages to 11mm?
The gold is 8mm the purple is 6mm.
Basically 11mm will last longer and normally be more abrasion resistant. The 8mm last me ages though and I find them a bit nicer to work with, the 6mm are so light and nice just won’t last as long.
Could you use a clove hitch instead of the italian hitch to secure the second after removing the atc?
You could... I really prefer a tied off Italian / Munter though as I like things to be releasable under load if possible, it might at some point make your life a lot easier!
@@JBMountainSkills oh yes that makes alot of sense when you mention it! Greetings from Norway!
Why do you always have to have something in the master point?
Have a quick go at clipping in to the shelf and undoing the master point with nothing it, some where safe though, it can be quite exciting! There's a slim chance if the masterpoint is small, the knot could roll, creating a failure.
@@JBMountainSkills Thanks for the reply. I've just discovered your channel and I'm loving it. I'll be going for my MCI training some time next year hopefully and it's great being able to practice this stuff first.