How to cut STL models for 3D printing in Meshmixer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มี.ค. 2018
- Is the 3D model of Hulk you want to print on your Original Prusa Printer too big? Let's cut it into smaller pieces. Wonder how? Watch this beginner's guide. Details in video or in this article - www.prusaprinters.org/cut-stl...
However basic cuts can be done directly in Slic3r possibilities are somehow limited. More advanced and greater tool for cutting models in smaller pieces is called Meshmixer.
You can find it here - www.meshmixer.com/download.html
Music:
Joakim Karud - Waves
Silent Partner - Don't Look
Joakim Karud - Clouds - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![ความรักของยักษ์เขียว (ทศกัณฐ์) - เดี่ยว ไออุ่น [OFFICIAL MUSICVIDEO 4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yCCy-QVHqK8/mqdefault.jpg)
This is really well done and helpful. I spent 6 hours trying to figure out how the tools work and this guy explained them in under 5 minutes.
Not only is this guy helping me out, it feels like he read my mind for what I purposed this for (a ukulele neck).
Best Meshmixer tutorial video! So helpful and easy to understand!
I know this is an old video, but what a gem it is. THANK YOU! I just used this method to cut down a GIGANTIC jetpack STL into 4 parts to print on my Ender 3 Max. I had messed with Meshmixer on my own and was driving myself crazy with frustration. I watched this a couple times and stepped along with your method and YES! THANK YOU!
Thanks. You couldn't have chosen a better subject for me. I needed to do this last weekend! :)
What a great tutorial! I love all of these Meshmixer tutorials. I had been trying for way to long to cut models in Meshmixer. Thanks Prusa!
Just getting into 3d printing and have seen some amazing prints but never knew how they got such clean cuts or even what the little nib connectors were. So thanks so much for this, super helpful and will be refuting back to this channel a lot in the future I can tell.
So helpful. Parts of Meshmixer have been very intuitive while others made... no friggin sense, this was really practical for what I need right now. Thank you!
Tyvm for the vid. Had some issues with the Meshmixer site being down but finally got it downloaded.
EPIC. Thank you so much. The Cut to make Shells, is exactly what I needed.
Didn't think i'd find a video for the exact thing I wanted to know! thank you!
Thanks for making this video, I've been looking for a video to give some guidance on how to give figures moving parts for a while now. This a great start
10/10 exactly what I was looking for, thank you very much
Excellent tutorial! If you want to make sure that the arm doesn't twist you can add a second (smaller) cylinder next to the first one. Using the 3d primitive "box" (cube) is also a good method to guarantee that the part will stay in place without twisting. You might need to experiment with the tolerance values to make the parts fit perfectly.
Thanks Josef. Never could figure out how to do the pins.
Really handy for making pockets for magnetising models too. Thanks
Wow meshmixer is great. Thanks super useful video making the pins and complex cuts was incredibly helpful.
Thank you, this was incredibly easy to follow.
Hulk Smash! xD
Dude great tutorial.. Saved me hours of search.. I am lucky i found this in first try searching
awesome tut .. thank you .. also loved the little animation at the end ;)
OMG! This is what I was looking for! Greetings from Argentina.
And thank you very much, of course!
Thank you so much to this simple but amazing tutorial!
Thank you so much finally I found ur video so helpful now I can finish my 3d model without hesitation
Excellent... even though 3yrs old, was still able to find the options and features in the menus. Doing my first big print that isn't already split and needed to know how to add the pins in, though I used square pins to ensure things are alinged.
That's really impressive for a 3 year-old, as is your typing.
Brilliant tutorial, thanks mate.
Seriously great and concise advice. If I could double like I would.
This is gold! I've been struggling with a very large piece (a backpack for a costume), and I have to separate it into smaller pieces that can still be put together with reasonable precision. This use of primitives to make aligning-pins is perfect!
this might be a old video buy you just saved me hours of a head ache trying to get this to cut the right way!
Best one yet!! Thanks so much
Love you ma dude! was trying to figure this out :D
TYVM!!! This is amazing. I'm working on Christmas Presents, and this is going to make things amazing!!!! My dual extruder says thanks, as well. LOL
giga helpful good work lad great tutorial now i can final print off a large model in my mars 3
Thanks. Helping my daughter make a furry suit and 3D printing ahead on a smaller 3D printer I had to cut the design up I had no idea how to but now I'm a super bad thanks to you.
Amazing Video!!! That halped me a lot!
simple and amazing tutorial! thx
Perfect tutorial :)
Thank you very much for sharing it!
Thank you so much!, this is exactly what I was looking for!!
This video helped me alot and i thank you for that.
Hello!!! I adore your channel👌👌
Thank you, I had a piece that was too large for tinkercad which I like to use as its much easier for me, after splitting into 2 I've now loaded them both in.
THANKSSSS !!!!! perfecto tutorial !!
MUY BUEN TUTORIAL, TE FELICITO!!!!
Amazing, thank you!
VERY helpful, thanks
Thanks for sharing :-)
Heyyy!!! Inspired by your channel 😊
Thanks, very succinct.
Thank you!
Thanks for the tutorial, saved me a lot of issues and support material! Is there also a way to give the pins and the holes a chamfer? In my head those should always be round or chamfered, and I don't know if that's possible in Meshmixer
What is the target edge scale for? I tried researching, but found nothing? Overall, great video! I came across many videos for slicing in Meshmixer, but none of them showed how to incorporate using a peg to attach the pieces. What are your thoughts on instead of two holes and one peg, having one piece with the peg attached and the other piece with a hole?
Very helpful
In woodworking you learn not to make straight cuts in elements like trim, because if they spread even a hair (which happens even on nailed and glued wood due to temp, humidity changes) you'll see a deep shadow line like you can see 15 frames after 4:16 on the right arm -- you can actually see all the way through the model to the wall behind it. If you made those cuts on an angle - conical in 3D in this case - that couldn't happen.
If I may ask, what do you think i'm doing wrong if the pegs dont fit without serious grinding down?
If it helps to understand, I think my tolerance is 0.45 which i know is a lot larger than most. But im not sure why.
Awesome video! Have followed your chanel. I followed instructions and worked well, but when i go to export the aligning pin it comes up with error : current selection is not a mesh?
Thx for the video. One question, how do I export one piece of the cut?
Where is the video about the MMU v2.0 ? ;)
thx
"advance" is not present on "difference" tool... why?
danke top anleitung
👍👍👍👍👍👍
I know this is mostly for 3D printing but I've been trying to find ways to cut up models for implement a gore and dismemberment system in my game. So my question is say if your model is rigged would slicing up the character mess that up?
Thanks for the video, great stuff. Though following your steps I still have problems with the pieces not being able to fit. the primitive is just to fat after printing. Can I do something in the settings while in meshmixer do avoid this? Thanks. I am printing in 0.2 layer height mostly so I understand that It will expand a bit material wise. Cant understand the settings while in boolean difference really.
I think it's the Target Edge Scale th-cam.com/video/Tgc66TvEke4/w-d-xo.html He mentions it, but doesn't really expand on why he's doing it so I missed it. I'll need to try this out myself as my parts didn't fit either.
the glue pin you made, would it be easier/better to make one a hole and the other be left inside the other part, so that you can just plug and play, and not have to line it up just right after print. like instead of a cylinder make it a star so that it would only fit in a certain rotation?
What about adding the pin to the other half of the model, via Boolean Union? Would save one part to be printed and should still fit perfectly as well.
i never got me a sla printer because i thought splitting files would be very hard... but it actually looks pretty easy.. i got one question why do the allign pin isnt printed so the half sticks out of the body or the arm insead of using a loose pin?
thx ;) hi5 from spain ;)
when you go to bcn?
im very new to this software. i dont understand the part about exporting the separate pieces for 3d printing. how do i do that?
Excellent tutorial Josef, only concern I'd have is fit of the peg if it's not scaled slightly for tolerances.
I must have done something wrong following this tutorial, my peg didnt fit into the model. its slightly bigger :\
Thx❤️
The method is straight forward, but as an aside, how do you get the parts to have that transparency (i.e., you can see the end of the peg that is inside the part @ 2:40 and 3:50)?
it looks like his model is hollowed on the inside, you can do this through your slicer software (I know prusa has this)
Is it possible to put assembly required pieces together and print as a solid model?
So on my models when I do solit shells I get a ton of shells....not just the two? Is there a way to fix this?
Hi Can I print the surface to make a flat shape on the printer
Is it possible to do it so the pins are just part of one side of mesh with the other part having the holes for those pins instead of making it holes on both sides with pins being separate?
You can use the Boolean Union instead of Boolean Difference
but how do i do it with nms of accuracy? ive been trying for so long and all whats holding me back is the fact meshmixer gives you no ability to move the slicer without moving it with the arrows
which moves it much farther than i need it to be
exporting format? and after i guess u use cura before u print?
Is there a reason to not just combine the primitive with one side of the part? I would think you could then avoid printing the additional primitive and the connection would be more secure, but I'm not sure if there is a reason this is not ideal.
This is what I'm thinking. Have you discovered if theres a reason why?
still works in prusa 2.5? 2022 ? and old vertion of mesh mixer?
Pls
where this hulk stl come from ?
hi Why did I cut and slice my model into pieces with Meshmixer and then put the pieces together vertically in Cura, there were approximately 24 pieces that I was able to prepare for printing in 3 times in Cura, i.e. in 3 stl files, my problem is that I printed the first layer It is printed like a net, which means that it is not like my other prints that the first layer is correct, clean and smooth, what is the problem? I have adjusted my models from left to right and horizontal to vertical to fit more in Cura
Any way to put them back together? I downloaded a model and it's cut into a bunch of tiny pieces
Is it possible to download this model somewhere? I really love this low poly Hulk!
;)
www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-low-poly-hulk-24957
Thanks a lot! ;)
thank you i love u
I love Slic3r but.... every time I want to load a decent sized file or big file, it crashes!
And other programs are complicated.
nice thanks
So now when you export you’ll have 3 objects? The main body and arm and then the peg and when you export to stl and compile g code, the printer will be making 3 objects? Is this correct?
Which program is he using?
won't it be a problem if the cylinder is so perfectly fit there is no difference between the boolean hole and the parent cylinder after printing and trying to push the cylinder into the hole?
I know this is an older video but hopefully some one will see this... When I insert the primitive cylinder it does not automatically align to the cut plane. Is there something I'm doing wrong?
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2.2 version dont have that feature
I got a question: is there an advantage ofs using a separate loose pin like you did instead of a pin connected to one half?
I wonder if the clean cut was the base for the print?
where can I find the stl for your hulk?
would it not be easier to just have the peg attached to the model on one side with a cut on the adjoining piece?
I was going to ask the same thing, I guess it depends on what you want to lay flat on your build plate. If you're slicing up it this way it may be that you want the sliced part of the arm to print flat on your bed.
any other slicer for this ?????
It lags crazy when I try to do this on certain stl files.
On most of them I cant use this method because the Meshmixer is just freezing at the same point over and over again
Topp!
Great video exactly what i need but not a fan of background music on an instructional video.
Thanks and yeah, we've lowered the background music significantly on newer videos.
This is great but why is my selection not staying where I want it to be...It moves off to somewhere else that is NOwhere near where I want it
hola porque del lado del cuerpo la escala es de 0.41, pero del lado del brazo es 0.47, no deberian ser iguales...
Is there any way to reverse this process, provided that you have a model that the creator split and you want to print it as one?
You could try to do a "boolean merge", either in the mentioned Meshmixer or in, for example, Blender. For that to work, there must be no gap between the parts and maybe even a small overlap might be beneficial.
If there's any internal geometry (e.g. a key), that might produce some internal cavities. Though that probably wouldn't be too big of a problem, since it's hidden on the inside.
-Mikolas