Using our Tools to Improvise
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- JRB demonstrates how we can leverage the rich set of tools in our toolbox to create an improvised climbing system and climb on it for the very first time.
Related Videos:
• JRB Hitch Climbing 202...
• Double JRB Cinch Syste...
• Footloop Options, Why,...
• JRB Cinch 2024
• Introducing JRB's Mave...
• Introducing the Saddle...
• Tying the Longhorn Agi...
• Tying the Compact Long...
• JRB Ascender Hitch Foo...
• Tying the Compact JRB ...
• Double Adjustable Brid...
• One Handed Hedden Knot
• JRB Cinch, Worst Case ...
• Tying the Maverick Hitch
• Executing a Transfer
• Redundant Bridge:10 Op...
• Single Rope Rappel on ...
• Tying the Clove Hitch,...
• JRB End Loop, Version 3
• Tying the Slipped Over...
#jrbtreeclimbing
jrbtreeclimbin...
www.apecanyon.... Use JRB15 coupon code for 15% off!
www.rocknarbor... Use JRB10 coupon code for 10% off!
/ jrbtree (Private Group)
/ jrbtreeclimbing (Public Page)
/ jrbtreeclimbing (Your support is appreciated)
DISCLAIMER: Viewers assume responsibility for their own safety. This video is provided for demonstrational and informational purposes only, and is not considered advice nor instruction. Climbing and related knot tying activities are dangerous and should be performed only with appropriate training, supervision and protective equipment. The author disclaims responsibility for the clarity, comprehensiveness and accuracy of the content, as well as all liability for accidents or injuries incurred. - JRB Tree Climbing LLC
#jrbtreeclimbing #treeclimbing #saddlehunting #arborist #climbing #knots
While I appreciate your creativity with the system(s) you just used to get up that tree, and while I absolutely LOVE (read: I am obsessed with) friction hitches, watching you use SIX different friction hitches to get the job done seems a bit excessive to me. And then you're also suggesting that we have a prusik loop on our person for tying a seventh friction hitch in an emergency, should our primary climbing hitch suddenly fail on us. While this last suggestion (regarding carrying a prusik loop for tying a "one handed Hedden" hitch in an emergency) is actually really solid advice, it's just a whole lot of friction hitches.
As an arborist style tree climber, I also always climb with a harness that has two bridges, and I sometimes climb with them both at the same longer length, while other times, just like for you in this demo, I need my main bridge to be as short as possible and have my second one a bit longer or also super short. I always know BEFORE I do a climb whether or not the length of my bridges will need to be adjusted. And so I will make those adjustments prior to ascending and then set both bridges at their respective lengths with a double overhand knot. I played around with a ton of different adjustable bridge styles (tried using friction hitches, rope grabs, etc.), but I ultimately decided that I a) never found myself needing to adjust my bridge lengths after leaving the ground and b) that I feel ten times safer with bridges that are secured with knots, and are only adjustable after untying a knot.
And while using a sit and stand method may be a great, simple option for a saddle hunter, for me...it looks painfully slow and inefficient. Especially since you have to keep setting a new tie in point ever 20 feet using a pole and second rope/climbing system. But I recognize that this is likely the best option for a saddle hunter. But as someone who prefers setting my lines with throw weights and throw lines, climbing SRS/SRT with just one system for ascent (and sometimes a second for positioning in the canopy), and rope walking my way up to my TIP very quickly...it's just too slow haha But again, I fully appreciate the design, thought, and effort that you've put into all of these releasable spar anchors and friction hitch based adjustable bridges and foot loops.
And that's why I always watch your videos, John. You're a smart guy with interesting and clever ideas. I just also know that, for my style of climbing, I can do it faster and with way less gear and effort. But, again, I also understand that, as hunters, you guys have to be really quiet and stealthy and you don't necessarily prioritize speed or efficiency if it might make too much noise. But there's a zero percent chance that I would ever climb this way. Needlessly complex and far too slow for my needs.
I looooooove friction hitches, but I only need ONE with a rope wrench, a foot ascender and a knee ascender to climb SRS/SRT. Well, I also have a friction hitch on my adjustable lanyard, but that's for protection and positioning AFTER I've reached the top of my ascent. I'm not saying my climbing style is better or anything. We climb for completely different reasons. Yours is almost certainly better for saddle hunting or you wouldn't be recommending it in your latest video. My style of climbing is better for someone who wants to climb any height, and onto any part of a tree, quickly, efficiently, and with as little gear as possible.
I've also never seen you use your systems to climb anywhere in the actual crown/canopy and, for me, that's where I love to climb the most and have the most fun. When I climb, I always set my TIP as far up into the canopy as I possibly can, and completely climb up and past the stem of the tree. Tree climbing is so fun because it's 3-dimensional. But you only seem to ever climb 2-dimensionally...up and down. No limb walks?! Ick. Doesn't seem fun to me haha =-D
Best wishes, Knotorious
Agree on all points. In my own climbing, I use a throwball wherever possible. A hunter always wants to stay close to the trunk so we can use the trunk to hide and to vary position. So limb walking would not be of interest. Go watch some videos on Stick Climbing or One Stick Climbing and you'll see why people are getting hurt. Cheers
Thanks for your videos. I like the maverick pole idea and I am using it in my art method of climbing. I use a madrock safeguard, a hand ascender with a foot loop and a short secondary tether. I climb the repel rope to the top and attach my secondary thetherto the tree and put my weight on it, then I advance my repel tether with the home made maverick pole and transfer my weight back to it and continue climbing. Thanks for all the advice and example climb videos and the how to build a pole videos. I used a 67 inch selfie stick with a painters mini roller attached to the end. Light, cheap and durable. Thanks again and good hunting.
I also built one with a bent paint roller, but after leaving it in a hot car, the hook pulled right out of the handle. The Maverick Pole is pinned in and designed for the application. Cheers
Thank you John, GREAT INFORMATION!
Appreciate that.
FINALLY at the point of testing a full stick based climb. John, do you have a video showing the way you attach a small retrieval line to the Maverick hitch for post repel use?
PS your organized web page made all the difference for me this year, immensely appreciated.
PPS Any plans for a book down the road with these systems illustrated? Perhaps a kickstarter campaign could generate funds so you could hire it out? You've done more than your fair share but this is groundbreaking work...
No plans for a book now... perhaps in the future. In terms of retrieval attachment, typically I have a JRB End Loop and clip to it. Here i just popped a Bull Hitch over an overhand knot. I will try to make a video for ya. Cheers
Congratulations on filling your first tag of the season! Was it a doe or buck? I have another question for you that arose while watching this video. I added a redundant bridge to my saddle shortly after watching a video of yours saying how important it was. I made mine from a prusik loop and I threw on a screw gate carabiner. When you did this in this video you seemed to have some concern about using a screw gate. What would that concern be? By the way I've really enjoyed climbing now that I am slack free and always having redundancy. Your videos are extremely helpful.
The concern with a screw gate carabiner is almost always that it has the possibility to roll open inadvertently, making it possible for the gate to potentially open and cause catastrophic failure OR that you will forget to lock the gate. ALL of my carabiners as a tree climber have triple action gates and that's because these are a) considerably less likely to open unintentionally or accidentally, b) you can't forget to lock them; they autolock as soon as you close them, c) you can buy high quality, name brand triple action gated carabiners for only $5-15 more per carabiner than you would pay for a screw gate. If you buy a 3-pack of DMM triple action carabiners, you can get them for the same price of a quality screw gate carabiner. I would recommend buying carabiners made by either Petzl or DMM. Nobody makes hardware better than those two companies. DMM, as far as I'm concerned, makes the highest quality triact gate carabiners money can buy. 80% of my carabiners (of all different types) are made by DMM. But Petzl is a close second.
EDIT: DO NOT waste your money buying cheap triple action carabiners because the action on the gates will be terrible and possibly even dangerous, where they might sometimes fail to close properly. Don't skimp on your hardware costs. It's your life on the line after all.
Screw gates are sometimes NOT locked by the user. I see it all the time. Our carabiners have to be locked.