I think you make the best video on TH-cam explaining in detail about this freaking problem with the heat soak in this engines, You are very clever, no doubt 👍
You're getting a lot better at these videos, you're more casual and less monotonous than in your earlier videos. Pretty soon you'll be the ChrisFix of jeeps
Very good video! The bottom line for me is to replace the injectors with the new 12 hole version. And while I'm at it replace the leaking valve cover gasket. Both presently collecting dust in the shop!
Have you noticed if the fan kicks on much while the engine is running? Since the fan is in the filter box, it will be fighting the intake vaccum while the engine is running. This might contribute to the fan free spinning when the engine is running or premature fan failure.
I live in the desert by Yuma. I have tried all of these quick fixes. Wrap kit, 6 hole injectors and latest is 12 hole, can't see any difference. I had but louvered vents in the hood as my first project. Then added a kit blocks under the back of the hood, helped some then added a delay for 3 minutes that runs the fan. I turn on the fan just before I turn off the engine then fan runs that helps move the air out the back of the hood. . Now back to You removing the Cats and installing a Y what do you compensate for the 4 O/2 sensors. I need detailed help on this or I would have started out doing this first.
Great ideas! Lots of helpful suggestions in the comments also; 180 degree thermostat, ethanol-free gas, check the mechanical fan clutch, etc .... All easy solutions. Thanks! BTW: Why do the 4-hole and 12-hole injectors help? What's the engineering logic behind that solution?
my 88 had this, or so i thought. long hard start every time. SO i fixed my fuel leak at the pressure regulator. that helped. and then replaced for the 2nd time my whole fuel pump and sender assembly. no more long hard start, no more pressure leaking down and making me THINK i had heat soak. and yes heat soak is a real thing. just saying the symptoms COULD be something else.
Easiest and cost free solution is to just open the hood when you park. Also wrapping the exhaust manifolds is better than building all sorts of contraptions
Hey @Ken Xiong, opening the hood every time you park is NOT the easiest solution ! Maybe the 2nd stupidest solution ! But your numero uno, top most ignorant solution, is to wrap the cast iron exhaust manifold !
How do u think a similar elec fan set up like that would go as a turbo type set up? Im no engineer, obviously far from it lol. But when i saw the set up it, I thought I wonder if it would be helpful?
It helped reduce the occurrence of heat soak but it did not totally eliminate it. The injectors I got were to fit a 2001 XJ off of the K Suspension website. www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p22/Remanufactured%3A_12_Port_Upgraded_Injectors.html#/
@@OutJeeping Thanks for your reply. I appreciate your comment that the 12 nozzle injectors won’t completely eliminate heat soak. In the past I’ve always been able feather the throttle and the heat soak would go away. Lately, however, heat soak was stubborn and would occur at lower temps. Rebuilt injectors received from K Suspension. At this point, I’ll be happy if I can get back to feathering the throttle remedy. Best
Last I removed all weather stripping and rubber garments from my hood ..creating a tiny heat vent around the hood. Helps too. And you cannot see the difference in appearance.
Much easier solution is ....I put 180 degree thermostat in instead of that 192 degrees one that is stock. This starts the cooling process sooner . Thus, making your entire engine cooler so it doesn't build heat up in the first place. Also most people forget to check the mechanical clutch fan. If it works , you can idle to cool engine. If it is failing, idle heats it up. The fan clutch goes out every couple years. They work all the time.
I thought heat soaking was the bottom of the intake gets so hot that the heat rise and cooks up the spark plug number 3,, a simple solution was to just block or re direct that heat elsewhere.. I see that you covered the entire area...wouldn't that makes it worse?..or is the fan pushing it out elsewhere?
I use ethanol free gas which has a higher boiling point. Its a bit more expensive but I get better gas mileage , it doesn't gum up components and I Haven't had any heat soak issues on any of my 3, 2000+ jeeps since I started using it.
Any luck on getting a video of how to change out the serpentine belt? New to the Jeep world and mine squeals so loud it’ll drive u crazy! Great videos as always keep up the great work
Hey man I know this was a month ago but look down center of motor where the harmonic balancer is. It has a little rubber strip that holds the outer ring on which drives the belt. It will squeal like hell from pushing the belt out. Dont let it come all the way off on you!!!
you mentioned new fuel injectors to fix the problem .....can you reply with the type part number or supplier if possible and what replacement exhaust header do you intend to use ....hv a 2000 a Jeep Cherokee 4.0L I am doing some upgrades on and want to include your upgrades ...I have wrapped exhaust manifolds in my BMW and it reduces the heat significantly !!
I got a video covering the injectors. The exhaust is the Y down pipe for federal emissions made by Walker. FYI it deletes your downstream o2 sensors so the CEL would be on. I was thinking about wrapping it but some people say it will rust out the pipe more. th-cam.com/video/9eBJXvTsOOw/w-d-xo.html
Ksuspension for your injector swap and wrapped headers rust big time down south your best bet would be a ceramic header even the higg temp ceramic paint will help
Have a 2007 Jeep grand Cherokee and for the last month I’m having this issue on and off. Yesterday I installed a new remanufactured starter from O’Reilly now when I start the engine at anytime it starts but the initial turn of the key the starter is super really slow and loud grinding sound but it starts I hate the sound that it makes so today I’m thinking about switching back to the old stock starter where it would fire up w/o any slow hesitation grinding sound like the new starter does, I just found out about vapor lock issues like yesterday after my new starter was installed via TH-cam’s etc. u think if I put back my old original Jeep starter it would start “normal” w/o that slow grinding sound the new starter makes? I basically just have to eat the labor that I paid to install the new starter and pay another labor to put back the old starter and via TH-cam videos there’s a valve release apparently located on my fuel lines behind the motor and there’s a release valve in there that I could access by using a rag cover it and a flat head screw driver to release vapor lock some guy from TH-cam explained this very well just like u did w ur video ...
If the new starter is acting up I would first check the wire connections to it and make sure they are cleaned off. If that doesnt work then it sounds like it's just a bad starter from oreileys and they should be able to replace it under warranty. As far as vapor lock issues, I have the same problem on my jeep but releasing the pressure in the fuel rail wont help with vapor lock in the long run. I've always let the fuel pump Prime for 5 seconds before starting the vehicle and it seems to help a bit. There is also kits out there that you can get fuel rail shield to help Shield engine heat away to prevent vapor lock.
OutJeeping cool ty so much for the reply 👍🏽 ya ur right I think the starter I got was bad it was a remanufactured so I ordered a brand new one to replace also found out that my 07 jgc doesn’t even have that release valve in there so just gonna do new starter and have my mechanic check and clean the wirings plus the 5 sec prime delay also does help and started using premium gas now have a good weekend bro 🤙🏽
do you have the thermo switch degree, where you get them, also you mentioned a timer you have any infinite on that? it is a problem and some of your ideas I like.
It was a 130 degree switch I had lying around but can probably bought anywhere. I was reading up on a jeep forum where someone had made a timer, that's where I got the idea.
Hey quick question, where is the firewall cable supposed to be connected to? I think mines not in the right spot, i uploaded a short. Any help is truly appreciate it
The cheap way is clear up plastic and other material blocking in from the grill to the engine putting a spacer in at the end of the hood . the other is a reverse hood scoop with holes in hood. N a 5in- 8in fan with switch on top of hood hiding in the scoop with switch and timer cut off. Another is hooking a cooling fan switch with reverse mode with timer household timer. To your cooling fan . you can do all if you have a racing engine modified 4.2 liter
At stops on a warm day in Texas my car will idle slightly rough until at another stop it'll drop in rpms and not move at all accompanied by misfires. letting it sit for 5-10 minutes and my jeep will go like normal until i stop again. My Cherokee is a 93.
@@OutJeeping maybe. Only started happening frequently after i took a trip to a junkyard 30 miles from where I live. Took the highway doing 70 mph on a 95 degree day. Would a heat shield minimize the problem?
@@AnEverydayGamer Yes you can install a heat shield underneath the fuel rail or get a fuel rail and injector insulation wrap. I believe Design Engineering makes a kit for the Jeep 4.0.
My 01 was hard to start with a heat soak problem. The cause was fuel injectors leaking down after engine shutdown. Got new 4 hole injectors and never had the problem again. Even with the stock foil insulation removed.
Seriously biggest overlook . Is that mechanical fan. Easy check . At idle the fan mechanical one should keep engine cool at idle and lower temp at idle . Slowly but it works . After going up mount rose ...I sit idling while my family stretch their legs for 5 minutes. It lowers the temp to 180 . (Radiator temp). Then i shut it off. When my mechanical fan was broke. It heats up sitting ..idling. ..anyway take care. I owned 4 xj. Still own 2.
Yeah. I want to know more about the pre cats removal. I know you can get y pipe that will bolt up. What about the down draft o2 sensors. Can you share more info. I know it’s” illegal”. I’m only asking for a friend.
Currently it does throw a code for both the downstream o2s. One is not hooked up and the other is with a extension piece that comes out and is supposed to trick the o2 into reading correct vales. It worked for a couple days then threw a code because the voltage is too high so i may do some experimenting with resisters. Then when it works I will weld in another bun and do it the same to the other downstream o2. I currently have the one downstream that's hooked up on a bun that was already welded on a front pipe that comes brand new from Walker. This front pipe fits 00 and 01 so they put a bun there for the upstream on a federal emissions jeep. If it was California emissions and you still have the precats, you would use a plug that was provided.
OutJeeping Have you tried the 90 degree O2 fouler? I put catless downpipe on 2017 Ecoboost mustang and currently fooling the computer with one. Ordered it off Amazon
Well the description of the video and the title picture says 4.0. Its not specific in the title because I'm showing a concept that could be applied to various other engines.
OutJeeping "Federal emissions Y pipe"? Would you be able to provide more info on this, Austin? I have a '01 as well and would love to eliminate my pre-cats without causing any other issues. Thanks in advance! I am a big fan of your videos!
I think you make the best video on TH-cam explaining in detail about this freaking problem with the heat soak in this engines, You are very clever, no doubt 👍
You're getting a lot better at these videos, you're more casual and less monotonous than in your earlier videos. Pretty soon you'll be the ChrisFix of jeeps
Nicholas Rohde Thanks! I'm trying my best lol.
ChrisFix was sooo mono in his old vids now he sounds awesome lol
Very good video!
The bottom line for me is to replace the injectors with the new 12 hole version.
And while I'm at it replace the leaking valve cover gasket.
Both presently collecting dust in the shop!
Excellent idea. I'm going to be implementing this on mine in the near future. Thank you for sharing!
Have you noticed if the fan kicks on much while the engine is running? Since the fan is in the filter box, it will be fighting the intake vaccum while the engine is running. This might contribute to the fan free spinning when the engine is running or premature fan failure.
I live in the desert by Yuma. I have tried all of these quick fixes. Wrap kit, 6 hole injectors and latest is 12 hole, can't see any difference. I had but louvered vents in the hood as my first project. Then added a kit blocks under the back of the hood, helped some then added a delay for 3 minutes that runs the fan. I turn on the fan just before I turn off the engine then fan runs that helps move the air out the back of the hood. .
Now back to You removing the Cats and installing a Y what do you compensate for the 4 O/2 sensors. I need detailed help on this or I would have started out doing this first.
Great ideas! Lots of helpful suggestions in the comments also; 180 degree thermostat, ethanol-free gas, check the mechanical fan clutch, etc .... All easy solutions. Thanks! BTW: Why do the 4-hole and 12-hole injectors help? What's the engineering logic behind that solution?
Great vid. I put a one inch spacer under the hood of my 96 xj and it definitely helped
my 88 had this, or so i thought. long hard start every time. SO i fixed my fuel leak at the pressure regulator. that helped. and then replaced for the 2nd time my whole fuel pump and sender assembly. no more long hard start, no more pressure leaking down and making me THINK i had heat soak. and yes heat soak is a real thing. just saying the symptoms COULD be something else.
Easiest and cost free solution is to just open the hood when you park. Also wrapping the exhaust manifolds is better than building all sorts of contraptions
Hey @Ken Xiong, opening the hood every time you park is NOT the easiest solution ! Maybe the 2nd stupidest solution ! But your numero uno, top most ignorant solution, is to wrap the cast iron exhaust manifold !
How do u think a similar elec fan set up like that would go as a turbo type set up? Im no engineer, obviously far from it lol. But when i saw the set up it, I thought I wonder if it would be helpful?
Oh I like this idea, bottom and top sides. Hmmm cool!
Thanks for the informative video. What make and model # 12 hole injectors did you install? Did this resolve your heat soak issue? Thx again.
It helped reduce the occurrence of heat soak but it did not totally eliminate it. The injectors I got were to fit a 2001 XJ off of the K Suspension website. www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p22/Remanufactured%3A_12_Port_Upgraded_Injectors.html#/
@@OutJeeping Thanks for your reply. I appreciate your comment that the 12 nozzle injectors won’t completely eliminate heat soak. In the past I’ve always been able feather the throttle and the heat soak would go away. Lately, however, heat soak was stubborn and would occur at lower temps. Rebuilt injectors received from K Suspension. At this point, I’ll be happy if I can get back to feathering the throttle remedy.
Best
Last I removed all weather stripping and rubber garments from my hood ..creating a tiny heat vent around the hood. Helps too. And you cannot see the difference in appearance.
How much would you charge for the cool kit you made. With the fan and all I have a 2000 xj classic 4.0
Much easier solution is ....I put 180 degree thermostat in instead of that 192 degrees one that is stock. This starts the cooling process sooner . Thus, making your entire engine cooler so it doesn't build heat up in the first place. Also most people forget to check the mechanical clutch fan. If it works , you can idle to cool engine. If it is failing, idle heats it up. The fan clutch goes out every couple years. They work all the time.
I would like to try to do the same for my XJ, do you happen to have a pattern or dimensioned sketch I could use
I thought heat soaking was the bottom of the intake gets so hot that the heat rise and cooks up the spark plug number 3,, a simple solution was to just block or re direct that heat elsewhere.. I see that you covered the entire area...wouldn't that makes it worse?..or is the fan pushing it out elsewhere?
My idea behind this was to have the hot air around the fuel system pushed out with the fan.
Just subbed, can u tell me the direction the bilge blower fan is directed? Sucking air out of the airbox or blowing hot air out of the airbox?
It's blowing air out of the box onto the fuel system. I located the fan here to protect it from any water that may be present.
@@OutJeeping excellent
I use ethanol free gas which has a higher boiling point. Its a bit more expensive but I get better gas mileage , it doesn't gum up components and I Haven't had any heat soak issues on any of my 3, 2000+ jeeps since I started using it.
I live in PA and finding a ethanol-free gas station is like finding a unicorn
I have noticed the same effect on my ‘96 XJ
I use the PureGas app to find ethanol-free gas
are the 12 hole injectors working fine now
Any luck on getting a video of how to change out the serpentine belt? New to the Jeep world and mine squeals so loud it’ll drive u crazy! Great videos as always keep up the great work
J C I could probably make one in the future.
Hey man I know this was a month ago but look down center of motor where the harmonic balancer is. It has a little rubber strip that holds the outer ring on which drives the belt. It will squeal like hell from pushing the belt out. Dont let it come all the way off on you!!!
you mentioned new fuel injectors to fix the problem .....can you reply with the type part number or supplier if possible and what replacement exhaust header do you intend to use ....hv a 2000 a Jeep Cherokee 4.0L I am doing some upgrades on and want to include your upgrades ...I have wrapped exhaust manifolds in my BMW and it reduces the heat significantly !!
I got a video covering the injectors. The exhaust is the Y down pipe for federal emissions made by Walker. FYI it deletes your downstream o2 sensors so the CEL would be on. I was thinking about wrapping it but some people say it will rust out the pipe more. th-cam.com/video/9eBJXvTsOOw/w-d-xo.html
Ksuspension for your injector swap and wrapped headers rust big time down south your best bet would be a ceramic header even the higg temp ceramic paint will help
Well ive upgrated to 4 hole injectors and I still had vapor lock.. 4.0 run at high temp , so its understandable why it happens
Have a 2007 Jeep grand Cherokee and for the last month I’m having this issue on and off. Yesterday I installed a new remanufactured starter from O’Reilly now when I start the engine at anytime it starts but the initial turn of the key the starter is super really slow and loud grinding sound but it starts I hate the sound that it makes so today I’m thinking about switching back to the old stock starter where it would fire up w/o any slow hesitation grinding sound like the new starter does, I just found out about vapor lock issues like yesterday after my new starter was installed via TH-cam’s etc. u think if I put back my old original Jeep starter it would start “normal” w/o that slow grinding sound the new starter makes? I basically just have to eat the labor that I paid to install the new starter and pay another labor to put back the old starter and via TH-cam videos there’s a valve release apparently located on my fuel lines behind the motor and there’s a release valve in there that I could access by using a rag cover it and a flat head screw driver to release vapor lock some guy from TH-cam explained this very well just like u did w ur video ...
If the new starter is acting up I would first check the wire connections to it and make sure they are cleaned off. If that doesnt work then it sounds like it's just a bad starter from oreileys and they should be able to replace it under warranty. As far as vapor lock issues, I have the same problem on my jeep but releasing the pressure in the fuel rail wont help with vapor lock in the long run. I've always let the fuel pump Prime for 5 seconds before starting the vehicle and it seems to help a bit. There is also kits out there that you can get fuel rail shield to help Shield engine heat away to prevent vapor lock.
OutJeeping cool ty so much for the reply 👍🏽 ya ur right I think the starter I got was bad it was a remanufactured so I ordered a brand new one to replace also found out that my 07 jgc doesn’t even have that release valve in there so just gonna do new starter and have my mechanic check and clean the wirings plus the 5 sec prime delay also does help and started using premium gas now have a good weekend bro 🤙🏽
Thanks so much bro. Great video.
do you have the thermo switch degree, where you get them, also you mentioned a timer you have any infinite on that? it is a problem and some of your ideas I like.
It was a 130 degree switch I had lying around but can probably bought anywhere. I was reading up on a jeep forum where someone had made a timer, that's where I got the idea.
3:50 " top shroud piece " will hold heat in
Hey quick question, where is the firewall cable supposed to be connected to?
I think mines not in the right spot, i uploaded a short. Any help is truly appreciate it
Anywhere where there is a good ground connection to the engine. I would route it to the engine block instead of the intake manifold.
@@OutJeeping thank you for replying!!!
I'll route it to engine block.
It is not a bilge pump. It's a Marine blower which you have installed. Nice work.
The cheap way is clear up plastic and other material blocking in from the grill to the engine putting a spacer in at the end of the hood . the other is a reverse hood scoop with holes in hood. N a 5in- 8in fan with switch on top of hood hiding in the scoop with switch and timer cut off. Another is hooking a cooling fan switch with reverse mode with timer household timer. To your cooling fan . you can do all if you have a racing engine modified 4.2 liter
Great idea!
At stops on a warm day in Texas my car will idle slightly rough until at another stop it'll drop in rpms and not move at all accompanied by misfires. letting it sit for 5-10 minutes and my jeep will go like normal until i stop again. My Cherokee is a 93.
Sounds like the fuel system is starting to vapor lock before it is fired in the engine.
@@OutJeeping maybe. Only started happening frequently after i took a trip to a junkyard 30 miles from where I live. Took the highway doing 70 mph on a 95 degree day. Would a heat shield minimize the problem?
@@AnEverydayGamer Yes you can install a heat shield underneath the fuel rail or get a fuel rail and injector insulation wrap. I believe Design Engineering makes a kit for the Jeep 4.0.
@@OutJeeping alright I'll definitely have to check them out. Thanks!
My 01 was hard to start with a heat soak problem. The cause was fuel injectors leaking down after engine shutdown. Got new 4 hole injectors and never had the problem again. Even with the stock foil insulation removed.
What injectors did you set in your xj?
@@jalatecompa Rebuilt Bosch injectors for about $60 on eBay.
I open hood open every time I stop, even for gas, during the summer months. People think I'm crazy, but my cars last forever.
Seriously biggest overlook . Is that mechanical fan. Easy check . At idle the fan mechanical one should keep engine cool at idle and lower temp at idle . Slowly but it works . After going up mount rose ...I sit idling while my family stretch their legs for 5 minutes. It lowers the temp to 180 . (Radiator temp). Then i shut it off. When my mechanical fan was broke. It heats up sitting ..idling. ..anyway take care. I owned 4 xj. Still own 2.
If you remove those pre cats wont it set off a check engine code?
Yeah. I want to know more about the pre cats removal. I know you can get y pipe that will bolt up. What about the down draft o2 sensors. Can you share more info. I know it’s” illegal”. I’m only asking for a friend.
Currently it does throw a code for both the downstream o2s. One is not hooked up and the other is with a extension piece that comes out and is supposed to trick the o2 into reading correct vales. It worked for a couple days then threw a code because the voltage is too high so i may do some experimenting with resisters. Then when it works I will weld in another bun and do it the same to the other downstream o2. I currently have the one downstream that's hooked up on a bun that was already welded on a front pipe that comes brand new from Walker. This front pipe fits 00 and 01 so they put a bun there for the upstream on a federal emissions jeep. If it was California emissions and you still have the precats, you would use a plug that was provided.
OutJeeping Have you tried the 90 degree O2 fouler? I put catless downpipe on 2017 Ecoboost mustang and currently fooling the computer with one. Ordered it off Amazon
Jethro B Yeah that's the one I have and I got it off ebay. Was working for a couple weeks now it just reads 1v and doesn't go lower
You should sell your heat shield. I need something to help out my 01 xj
Thats extra af... But I love it
Love the thought plz apply
What injectors stop it?
12 or 4 hole Bosch injectors help with the heat soak but do not completely eliminate the problem.
Does not relate to my 4.7 V8, title is misleading.
Well the description of the video and the title picture says 4.0. Its not specific in the title because I'm showing a concept that could be applied to various other engines.
You should be working with TESLA.
I wouldn't go there 😆
ditch the cats
Already did
OutJeeping "Federal emissions Y pipe"? Would you be able to provide more info on this, Austin? I have a '01 as well and would love to eliminate my pre-cats without causing any other issues. Thanks in advance! I am a big fan of your videos!