I have the system and have far more clothing and weight. It’s been extremely sturdy and efficient. I’ve literally been able to consolidate 2 small closets snd a full chest of drawers due to its innovative design and ability to customize. I had a blank square in my new house and measured everything to the inch, designed for my needs and I’m very happy with the product.
Okay you are doing it wrong. There is a Hang Rail that is the first thing you mount across the top and the Wall Standards hang on the Hang Rail and that gives them most of their load bearing capacity. Next the Top Plastic Cap that clips into the Shelf Bracket is actually a safety device the locks them onto the Wall Standards. If you use the wood shelves, Shoe Rack, Pants Rack or Baskets they all have clips that latch in the top slots on the Shelf Brackets and that Top Plastic Cap locks the clips in place so the shelves, racks, etc. can't slip out of the slots. The whole system is based on a 24 inch enter spacing between vertical Wall Standard centers. You mounted the Wall Standards to the studs so you are mounting them 16 inches apart, not 24 inches. That's why you ended up with a weak, unsupported Closet Pole joint. So like I said you did it all wrong and everything you complained about as a bad feature are things you introduced because you didn't read the instructions and don't understand the system like you think you do. The mounting instructions are available online. I found them easy enough. Also Menards sells a few different shelving systems that at a quick glance look very similar. They are not. The Wall Standards for the Closet Culture are deeper than the other similar Wall Standards Menards stocks. There are other Shelf Brackets that are not for the Closet Culture system. There is another Hang Rail they stock and I don't know if that works with the Closet Culture hardware. So watch out. Check out this video, it's very good and you could learn something. th-cam.com/video/w-SoDl6CzUo/w-d-xo.html
Why are they 24 inch and not set to 16 inch so the standard can line up with studs. I mounted the top bracket and in no way could get the standard to hang off of it. I am considering taking it all back because even with a plumb wall, nothing is lining up correctly or hanging off the top tail
Hang rail is not essential for my purposes. I built it out to my needs and secured everything into studs. And even with a hang rail, plastic joiners for 2 foot metal rails is a weak point.
@@ZacharyReese Mine is more secure than any unit installed using drywall screws. Maybe you should worry about having a verified checkmark with no subscribers? Figure that out before trying to tell me how to install shelves lol
@@housestuff by not using the correct spacing you end up with the connectors in the center of the brackets for the pole. Of course that’s not sturdy. They’re meant to have the connectors at the brackets which is where the stability lies for them. You have argued with everyone who pointed out your flaws - I understand you “modified this for your needs” but anytime you don’t use something as intended you have no right to complain about it’s function. Adding the stability and proper spacing from the get go is important to the overall structure.
@@brandievaleri2911 It does not matter where the connectors are. No matter what, they will bend upwards at the connecting joint over time under the load of the hanging clothes. It's not rocket science. They sacrificed strength for ease of hauling the system. It's a trade off. One pro, and one con
You forgot the integral part of this system. The top horizontal bar. If you watch a closet culture video before you posted this you would know how to do it.
@@housestuff because (if you watched any videos, or read any instructions, the system is designed to have the vertical standards installed at 2 foot centers. You installed the standards at 16” and did not use the horizontal rail. The rods, the shelves, the baskets, the shoe racks and the pants racks are all designed to work with 2’ centered standards. Don’t blame the system when you don’t install it right. There is nothing wrong with the system.
@@barrysmith4067 So you think it's more stable to have everything hanging from an anchored horizontal bar instead of individually anchoring each vertical bracket into a stud. One anchor point per row is not going to work for anybody with a sizeable amount of clothes, especially long term. I improved the design with my install. You're welcome
Frankly, you don’t know what you are talking about. The horizontal 48” hanger bars have holes on 2” centers. Their screws are 3” #10 color matched screws. Instructions tell you to screw into studs. If I have an unsupported end, I use a 75# drywall anchor. After you hang the hang rail, the rail cover is just the right length to space the vertical standards at 24”. The instructions tell you to put a minimum of two anchors into drywall anchors. That is 150 pounds per standard, on top of the strength of the hanger bar anchored directly into studs with long #10 screws. Way more strength than anyone could need. You installed part of a system that makes it not work with anything else in system. The cloths rod will not work. The pants rack will not work. The shoe racks will not work. The slide out baskets will not work. The wire shelves will not work. The “system” wood shelves will not work, but you can lay a wood shelf on top of the standards. You did not improve the design in the slightest. You just made it not work as intended. You’re welcome. @@housestuff
@@barrysmith4067 see now we understand your problem. You think drywall anchors are something that should be depended on. If you would have watched a quick youtube test video on how effective drywall anchors actually are, then we could have avoided this whole argument, even though the comments help me in the youtube algorithm. You're propping up your argument on a "as seen on tv" sensation level of the effective use of drywall anchors. Rethink it, and come back. Again, you're welcome
It's probably because you didn't install it correctly. Every vertical track is supposed to be hung from a horizontal mounting rack on top with covers plates that go in-between the vertical tracks to space them 24 inches apart. That means your closet pole joints would have been resting on a holder and supported.
@@OkByeNw Does not matter if the pole joints are resting on the holder. It's a weak point. It will flex and break over time. Solid bar is less moving pieces, therefore simpler, therefore less prone to failure.
@@OkByeNw Which way does the joint bend when load is applied to either side? Up or down? Which direction is the holder supporting the point from? It's very simple
So helpful! Thanks!
no problem!
I have the system and have far more clothing and weight. It’s been extremely sturdy and efficient. I’ve literally been able to consolidate 2 small closets snd a full chest of drawers due to its innovative design and ability to customize. I had a blank square in my new house and measured everything to the inch, designed for my needs and I’m very happy with the product.
Okay you are doing it wrong. There is a Hang Rail that is the first thing you mount across the top and the Wall Standards hang on the Hang Rail and that gives them most of their load bearing capacity. Next the Top Plastic Cap that clips into the Shelf Bracket is actually a safety device the locks them onto the Wall Standards. If you use the wood shelves, Shoe Rack, Pants Rack or Baskets they all have clips that latch in the top slots on the Shelf Brackets and that Top Plastic Cap locks the clips in place so the shelves, racks, etc. can't slip out of the slots. The whole system is based on a 24 inch enter spacing between vertical Wall Standard centers. You mounted the Wall Standards to the studs so you are mounting them 16 inches apart, not 24 inches. That's why you ended up with a weak, unsupported Closet Pole joint. So like I said you did it all wrong and everything you complained about as a bad feature are things you introduced because you didn't read the instructions and don't understand the system like you think you do. The mounting instructions are available online. I found them easy enough. Also Menards sells a few different shelving systems that at a quick glance look very similar. They are not. The Wall Standards for the Closet Culture are deeper than the other similar Wall Standards Menards stocks. There are other Shelf Brackets that are not for the Closet Culture system. There is another Hang Rail they stock and I don't know if that works with the Closet Culture hardware. So watch out. Check out this video, it's very good and you could learn something. th-cam.com/video/w-SoDl6CzUo/w-d-xo.html
Why are they 24 inch and not set to 16 inch so the standard can line up with studs. I mounted the top bracket and in no way could get the standard to hang off of it. I am considering taking it all back because even with a plumb wall, nothing is lining up correctly or hanging off the top tail
Bro, you installed this completely wrong, which may explain your problem. A hang rail is essential.
Hang rail is not essential for my purposes. I built it out to my needs and secured everything into studs. And even with a hang rail, plastic joiners for 2 foot metal rails is a weak point.
@@housestuff Incorrect. You messed up. Own your mistakes instead of doubling down.
@@ZacharyReese Mine is more secure than any unit installed using drywall screws. Maybe you should worry about having a verified checkmark with no subscribers? Figure that out before trying to tell me how to install shelves lol
@@housestuff by not using the correct spacing you end up with the connectors in the center of the brackets for the pole. Of course that’s not sturdy. They’re meant to have the connectors at the brackets which is where the stability lies for them.
You have argued with everyone who pointed out your flaws - I understand you “modified this for your needs” but anytime you don’t use something as intended you have no right to complain about it’s function. Adding the stability and proper spacing from the get go is important to the overall structure.
@@brandievaleri2911 It does not matter where the connectors are. No matter what, they will bend upwards at the connecting joint over time under the load of the hanging clothes. It's not rocket science. They sacrificed strength for ease of hauling the system. It's a trade off. One pro, and one con
Hey i know its like 3 years later but how's the system? Is it still around are the plastic arms that hold the bar still holding on?
Yea they're doing great. I replaced the plastic bar sections with a solid metal bar, but other than that, everything still works great
Honest opinion which i like. Keppsafe and well. SUBBED
Can you create a follow up video?? :) curious how this held up for you! Thanks!
Super helpful!
wrong
Can you include the links for where you got the closet organizing hardware??
You forgot the integral part of this system. The top horizontal bar. If you watch a closet culture video before you posted this you would know how to do it.
Uhhh how is that an integral part of the system?
@@housestuff because (if you watched any videos, or read any instructions, the system is designed to have the vertical standards installed at 2 foot centers. You installed the standards at 16” and did not use the horizontal rail. The rods, the shelves, the baskets, the shoe racks and the pants racks are all designed to work with 2’ centered standards. Don’t blame the system when you don’t install it right. There is nothing wrong with the system.
@@barrysmith4067 So you think it's more stable to have everything hanging from an anchored horizontal bar instead of individually anchoring each vertical bracket into a stud. One anchor point per row is not going to work for anybody with a sizeable amount of clothes, especially long term. I improved the design with my install. You're welcome
Frankly, you don’t know what you are talking about. The horizontal 48” hanger bars have holes on 2” centers. Their screws are 3” #10 color matched screws. Instructions tell you to screw into studs. If I have an unsupported end, I use a 75# drywall anchor. After you hang the hang rail, the rail cover is just the right length to space the vertical standards at 24”. The instructions tell you to put a minimum of two anchors into drywall anchors. That is 150 pounds per standard, on top of the strength of the hanger bar anchored directly into studs with long #10 screws. Way more strength than anyone could need. You installed part of a system that makes it not work with anything else in system. The cloths rod will not work. The pants rack will not work. The shoe racks will not work. The slide out baskets will not work. The wire shelves will not work. The “system” wood shelves will not work, but you can lay a wood shelf on top of the standards. You did not improve the design in the slightest. You just made it not work as intended. You’re welcome. @@housestuff
@@barrysmith4067 see now we understand your problem. You think drywall anchors are something that should be depended on. If you would have watched a quick youtube test video on how effective drywall anchors actually are, then we could have avoided this whole argument, even though the comments help me in the youtube algorithm. You're propping up your argument on a "as seen on tv" sensation level of the effective use of drywall anchors. Rethink it, and come back. Again, you're welcome
My system just gave way and fell to the floor. I think it's because of the weak plastic joints that hold the poles together. The hooks broke.
yea, so far mine is holding up, but I'm dreading the day when that inevitably happens
It's probably because you didn't install it correctly. Every vertical track is supposed to be hung from a horizontal mounting rack on top with covers plates that go in-between the vertical tracks to space them 24 inches apart. That means your closet pole joints would have been resting on a holder and supported.
@@OkByeNw Does not matter if the pole joints are resting on the holder. It's a weak point. It will flex and break over time. Solid bar is less moving pieces, therefore simpler, therefore less prone to failure.
@@housestuff yes it's a weak point. That's why you make sure the weak point is on the holder. It's very simple.
@@OkByeNw Which way does the joint bend when load is applied to either side? Up or down? Which direction is the holder supporting the point from? It's very simple