I had a problem where the nut loosened no problem but got caught in the thread halfway out, then seized. Angle grinder did the trick I just split the nut half way and off it came. Wouldn't recommend doing the job without an angle grinder on standby.
It doesn't work if the ball joint is well made (in my case Volvo) and there is no way it will pop out. Mole grips won't hold on the round shape surface so I'm struggling to imagine how it is supposed to work. I tried and it just spins. Used angle grinder instead and I cut it off :)
Thank you. I used this method for a 2012 honda jazz. Before, I always used to use a long nose locking pliers on the boot of the ball joint, and invariably it would spin. Your method much better. Thanks for sharing
Many, many thanks for pointing this out. The Lemforder replacement ones I have helpfully have flats on the ball joint side but the OE ones fitted don't, as here. I cut the lower nut off the OSF link but the NSF one requires left-handed access so it didn't get done. (Mazda3 - Focus 2 derivative.) Edit: I've had a play with the one removed and now see how to do it on the Mazda3 (BK). The plastic bearing cups are held in by four riveted-over bits at the base. Remove these and the cup pulls out of the drop link end. The cup can then be persuaded to pop of the ball, which is soft enough for a self-grip wrench to get a good purchase on.
Did the other one yesterday. Took say 20 minutes from wheel off to drop link on, most of which was spent winding the nuts off the corroded thread with a long bar a couple of flats at a time as mine's a fixed one. With anything else the threaded part would have snapped of course. Once again many thanks.
Chatted to an independent Toyota mechanic today and they said they cut off the boot and use a self-grip wrench on the exposed shaft of the ball joint. Of course you need a wrench with thin enough jaws but if you're doing it on a regular basis it's worth grinding down the jaws on one to make them fit.
Both mine where spinning nae chance they where coming off, tried to do it when on night shift at 2am when the boss wasn't looking. Great tip, gonnae dae them in the morning. Cheers
You may find the plastic bearing cups can be released from the rod ends, which then releases the ball. I've just found out that's how to do it on the Mazda3 (BK) so the second side should be done in a fraction the time it took to cut one nut off the first.
This looks amazing, but my grips are bending with the strain and I just can't get the ball joint to pop off. Is there something specific about the angle, or where the grips go that I may be missing, please?
The Lemforder aftermarket ones I have here for a Mazda3 (Focus 2 derivative) helpfully have flats on the ball joint side. But then on a car 18 years old they're unlikely be replaced again.
@@benevans5012 And if they're not going back on it doesn't matter, although sometimes you don't feel you can fully commit just in some other bit doesn't come apart before you need the car again.
Out of all of the videos I've watched for this project, none of them involved popping off the ball joint! THANK YOU!!!
I had a problem where the nut loosened no problem but got caught in the thread halfway out, then seized. Angle grinder did the trick I just split the nut half way and off it came. Wouldn't recommend doing the job without an angle grinder on standby.
Great video on how to solve a very common problem! Cheers 🙂
Reading the transcript for this is hilarious. 😂😂😂
Great tip though as I’ve had a pig of a day getting mine free 👍🏽
It doesn't work if the ball joint is well made (in my case Volvo) and there is no way it will pop out. Mole grips won't hold on the round shape surface so I'm struggling to imagine how it is supposed to work. I tried and it just spins. Used angle grinder instead and I cut it off :)
Excellent video, simple solution, thanks for making it!
Too late, I already put the angle grinder to it! Thanks!
Why didn't I see this yesterday? 😂Thanks
Thank you. I used this method for a 2012 honda jazz. Before, I always used to use a long nose locking pliers on the boot of the ball joint, and invariably it would spin. Your method much better. Thanks for sharing
Many, many thanks for pointing this out.
The Lemforder replacement ones I have helpfully have flats on the ball joint side but the OE ones fitted don't, as here. I cut the lower nut off the OSF link but the NSF one requires left-handed access so it didn't get done. (Mazda3 - Focus 2 derivative.)
Edit: I've had a play with the one removed and now see how to do it on the Mazda3 (BK). The plastic bearing cups are held in by four riveted-over bits at the base. Remove these and the cup pulls out of the drop link end. The cup can then be persuaded to pop of the ball, which is soft enough for a self-grip wrench to get a good purchase on.
Did the other one yesterday. Took say 20 minutes from wheel off to drop link on, most of which was spent winding the nuts off the corroded thread with a long bar a couple of flats at a time as mine's a fixed one. With anything else the threaded part would have snapped of course.
Once again many thanks.
Chatted to an independent Toyota mechanic today and they said they cut off the boot and use a self-grip wrench on the exposed shaft of the ball joint. Of course you need a wrench with thin enough jaws but if you're doing it on a regular basis it's worth grinding down the jaws on one to make them fit.
great video, you have just got me out of a pickle, thanks man
Both mine where spinning nae chance they where coming off, tried to do it when on night shift at 2am when the boss wasn't looking. Great tip, gonnae dae them in the morning. Cheers
Omg 🤦♂️ ur a genius. Wasted hours of my life on these😢
Canny Scott.... top job
thankk you so much!!!
Tried and tested
Hi would you be able to do this on any popular vehicle with drop links
Did this and it worked in seconds. Can't think of an easier way. Mulgrips are amazing.
can you do this without jacking up the car and taking the tire off? i dont have access to a jack stand.. just the jack that comes with the car
useful video
The casing of my swaybar links are metal. They don't pop out that easily, I tried different ways. Going to try a nut splitter.
You may find the plastic bearing cups can be released from the rod ends, which then releases the ball. I've just found out that's how to do it on the Mazda3 (BK) so the second side should be done in a fraction the time it took to cut one nut off the first.
This looks amazing, but my grips are bending with the strain and I just can't get the ball joint to pop off. Is there something specific about the angle, or where the grips go that I may be missing, please?
A bit late but you may find the plastic bearing cup won't release the ball while held in the rod end, so try getting the cup out first.
Can't you use a impact wrench?
nut just continues to spin. i'm going through this now as i'm trying to replace front struts.
No way the average locking pliers will bite into that hardened droplink balljoint. Just airgrind or battery grinder it off.
The jaws of a cheap self-grip wench were harder than the balls on my Mazda3 BK OEM links.
I need to try this on the weekend as I cannot get them off my van for toffee. The allen key design is such a dogshit design
The Lemforder aftermarket ones I have here for a Mazda3 (Focus 2 derivative) helpfully have flats on the ball joint side. But then on a car 18 years old they're unlikely be replaced again.
You didnt remove it bro you destroyed it lol
Necessary sometimes, they're an absolute pain.
@@benevans5012 And if they're not going back on it doesn't matter, although sometimes you don't feel you can fully commit just in some other bit doesn't come apart before you need the car again.