John, that looks pretty good. Good thing you did the whole number and not a portion. I made that mistake once and the number size is off a hair. Get you some clear gloss coat and clear dull coat spray paints. I only use Walthers Solvaset to apply decal. I did a "slide-show" on my Bachmann F7-s. If you havent seen it, I explained everything I did step by step. I will try to do another video sometime as I have a whole bunch of Walthers passenger cars that need decals. - Jason
Hey Jason, I'll definitely go back and look for your video on the F-7's. I airbrushed some gloss coat on after the decals dried, and that's helped too. At this point, with some gloss on there, I may just go straight into weathering with a satin coat followed by some dot fade and so on - I mean the airbrush is out, the car is not yet assembled completely, and its all sitting on the bench and everything... that might help too. This is not getting my list done!
@@johnarthur6302 I use gloss to apply decals as it creates a smoother surface and dull coat to seal it in after using Solvaset. This also makes the car not look shiny and new.
Yeah I should have applied Gloss beforehand. Before I am done with it, the last coat would be dull coat. With Gloss on there now, I can do some weathering with oils and get some streaking effects, and when that's all done, it would get dull coat before going back on the layout. I hadn't considered going straight from decal to dull coat though.
You were correct about trimming it closer. Also, always glosscote prior to applying the decal and also after the microsol dries. When you put microsol on a decal, don't disturb it. It will curl up and wrinkle. Just let it do its thing. Thanks for sharing your projects with us.
Ah, I figured I was missing a few things. I will look for another kit just to do this again, but with your feedback incorporated into the procedure. I want to practice doing it right before moving on to those Tichy flat car kits, or the SOU caboose. Thank you for commenting, I really appreciate it!
I tried the micro sol and microset on some of my rolling stock, and had the same problem with some of the decals. I heard about Walthers solvaset, and tried it out and it did work better than the micro stuff. If you can get it, try it out.
Thanks for the tip! I need to (and will soon!) give this another try - Gloss coat first, don't mess with decal while microsol is doing it's thing, etc. Trying the walthers product would be next, if it's still not right!
thank you for showing the detailed way for renumbering roll stock on freight cars and other
Thanks for watching, Robert!
John, that looks pretty good. Good thing you did the whole number and not a portion. I made that mistake once and the number size is off a hair. Get you some clear gloss coat and clear dull coat spray paints. I only use Walthers Solvaset to apply decal. I did a "slide-show" on my Bachmann F7-s. If you havent seen it, I explained everything I did step by step. I will try to do another video sometime as I have a whole bunch of Walthers passenger cars that need decals. - Jason
Hey Jason, I'll definitely go back and look for your video on the F-7's. I airbrushed some gloss coat on after the decals dried, and that's helped too. At this point, with some gloss on there, I may just go straight into weathering with a satin coat followed by some dot fade and so on - I mean the airbrush is out, the car is not yet assembled completely, and its all sitting on the bench and everything... that might help too. This is not getting my list done!
@@johnarthur6302 I use gloss to apply decals as it creates a smoother surface and dull coat to seal it in after using Solvaset. This also makes the car not look shiny and new.
Yeah I should have applied Gloss beforehand. Before I am done with it, the last coat would be dull coat. With Gloss on there now, I can do some weathering with oils and get some streaking effects, and when that's all done, it would get dull coat before going back on the layout. I hadn't considered going straight from decal to dull coat though.
You were correct about trimming it closer. Also, always glosscote prior to applying the decal and also after the microsol dries. When you put microsol on a decal, don't disturb it. It will curl up and wrinkle. Just let it do its thing. Thanks for sharing your projects with us.
Ah, I figured I was missing a few things. I will look for another kit just to do this again, but with your feedback incorporated into the procedure. I want to practice doing it right before moving on to those Tichy flat car kits, or the SOU caboose. Thank you for commenting, I really appreciate it!
I usually apply micro sol right after I soak up the set Walthers solvaset work great also
Great tip! I have adjusted my process to something similar since this project was shared.
Looks great John👍🏼. Those are turning out really well. It usually is a nail biter trying something new. I haven’t done decals yet. Someday ... 😁
Thanks, Bill. I’m sure there are things I am not doing right, but as I’ve worked on the edges etc, they do look better.
nice process. i have not renumbered a car yet but i have put on some graffiti.
I have some more of these to do - I made some mistakes in this one I have learned from!
I tried the micro sol and microset on some of my rolling stock, and had the same problem with some of the decals. I heard about Walthers solvaset, and tried it out and it did work better than the micro stuff. If you can get it, try it out.
Thanks for the tip!
I need to (and will soon!) give this another try - Gloss coat first, don't mess with decal while microsol is doing it's thing, etc. Trying the walthers product would be next, if it's still not right!
By HO-scale standards, this isn't a high level of detail. But on some of my N-scale cars I would KILL to have that level of detail!
Thanks, these are some less expensive models I am learning with