Wow! I bled my brakes earlier today and was honestly disappointed in the results. The "tip" you gave to firm up the lever feel worked like MAGIC. My hydros feel awesome again! Thanks!
First thing to try is while your bike is standing on the floor, tilt your bars way up so the reservoirs are pointing up at roughly 45° making them the highest point. Pump the lever light hard and in between while tapping the hose for awhile. Preferably unwrap your bartape first and align the hose so the bubbles easily can travel up to the reservoir. No special tools necessary. Works especially well on new bikes with spongie brakes out of the box. Cheers!
I honestly cannot believe Shimano didn't bother including the tiny funnel adapter (Y-0C698050) in their bleed kit for those of us who have slightly different levers. As far as I can see it's not even included in their 'professional' bleed kit, and has to be bought entirely on its own. The video is great though, super simple and yet concise explanations. At least I know exactly what to do now, once I get my hands on the adapter. Thanks!
Right lever/front brake😀. I had a friend that was an old motorcycle guy and left handed that hooked up his brakes that way. I raced his bike one time and amazingly I had no problems. I guess my old motorcycle habits kicked in. 👍
I've been told it is standard in UK. Either way, I just switched to right/front since I do 15-20 tkm per year on my motorbikes. Feels a bit better than left/front, though.
If the brakes are reversed (Right Lever = Front Brake), then what about the Rear Derailleur ? i dont think the left handle can handle the 11 or 12 gear shift ?! That is just mad
Shimano bleed screws are terrible. I also stripped a bleed screw, twice actually, and also had to use a dremmel to get them out. And then I couldn;t find the bleed screws anywhere, and this was pre-pandemic. They need to ,redesign those screws!
@@1ntrask also wasn’t able to find spare one for my XT lever, then found listing for the used complete shimano lever (cheaper one), but with the same dimension screw. Asked for just a screw for 1/3 of the price, the person selling it accepted my offer.
This is an excellent video. Made me know what to expect when doing something I hadn't done before. I esp. like the fact the video was dividend between the "quicky" task of adding fluid and the more complete job of replacing fluid.
It looks like the cable routed near the stem was the highest point of the system... shouldn't the bike have been rotated a bit to make the top bleed port the highest point?
I just purchased my first disc road bike two months ago and was afraid servicing the brakes would be difficult but with this video it seems feasible even for me! Thanks
I was looking for a decent run through on how to bleed shimano discs, not only is your video just spot on but you are using exactly the same bike as me! I lucked out or what. Great video, thanks
I'm bleeding my new GRX 400 rear brake for the 10th time and the le ver steel feel soft and there is no breaking power on the wheel. What am I doing wrong? There's no more air bubbles in the whole system but it steel feel rubbish. Front break is OK, but the rear is not working as it should. Any tips?
Note: the newer Shimano brakes require an extension for the bleed cup. Also, I just noticed that the bike's brakes are reversed from US orientation--we have front on left and rear on right--that could be quite a shock having a rental bike, lol.
@@christophercondron5388 Many thanks for the tip. I've spent days trying to work out why my brake bleed still left the leaver spongy. This fixed it a treat!
with mineral oil (shimano) there basically is no service interval as this stuff wont attract water. bleed it when you feel a performance degradaten. in really dirty and gritty situations (mtb in the winter, etc.) it might be a good idea to check annually, as dirt and air can enter the system via the seals. its not very likely though.
I just did my BMC alpenchallenge with the quick bleed works a treat took about 10 mins there was a lot of air in the rear brake...One thing why the brake block in place of the pads ? rear brake has less travel now cannot imagine how the rear got air in the first place.
What I've found is that's difficult to do because of how the brake hose snakes its way through the frame, most especially from the rear caliper to the lever. There are so many bends for air to collect, and keeping the funnel at the highest point, especially for a new installation, while twisting the bike on the stand in all directions, without spilling fluid all over the place, has been very difficult.
If I want to replace my 105 hydraulic shifters with an Ultegra model, would I need to remove all the gear cables and brake hoses to do it, or can I just swap the shifters....? All the hoses and cables are internal inside the frame and I am hoping I don’t have to fish them in and out.... it would be such a big job. Do you have a video in mind on how to?? Thanks.
Dick Tchairdjian hi. You can switch and bleed the brake hoses, but you’ll need to re-run the shifter cables back through the frame in order to get the nipples into the shifters again. I’d replace the shift cables at the same time - your new shifters will probably come with a pair. I’m considering doing the same thing with my Cannondale Synapse 105. Good luck!
you can just plug the old hoses into the new shifters. its recommended to change the olives, so you need to cut a cm and install new ones. but most of the time it works without doing so.
What is that "plastic ring" that is used at 7:36 in the video? I do not see it included in the Shimano Bleed Kit TL-BT03. What is its part number and where does one get it?
is there some screw that can adjust brake lever position as on mtb brakes- i done this today as you , but brake lever is still too deep/low in compare to other brake and it has variable travel- if press once it goes far/deep, if press twice fast then is short travel of brake lever(rear brake)
on ultegra/dura-ace you have a (not really good) adjustment screw. on sora, tiagra and 105 you dont. if the lever changes travel when pressing fast you most likely have air in the system somehwere.
For the first "firming up" type bleed, what was the point of taking the wheel off and messing about with the brake pads? Absolutely nothing was even DONE, down at the caliper!
Great vid but this skips a step in the Shimano instructions where pressure is applied to the brake and the bleed port is loosened and tightened quickly
thats one way to do it, especially when setting up from scratch. but when you only want to bleed the already installed system thats not neccesary because you wont have so many air bubbles in the system.
His RIGHT hand lever connected to FRONT brake? Is this person a motorcyclist? Something I saw back in the day = since motorcycles have clutches, which are on left side, the right hand brake is front on motorcycles -- some motorcyclists would mimic this on their bikes so they did not have to make the mind/switch as they went from bike to motorcycle to bike, etc. Or was this just to make it easier to video?
Like the disks on my Diamondback Haanjo Trail (which is why I'm here), however, I don't think they are necessary or an improvement for a road bike using up to 28m tires. I'm a big guy and still have never have lacked for stopping power using Force calipers on my Cervelo.
I like having discs with carbon clinchers. Works better than rim brakes, and safer too because it won't heat up the carbon and cause potential catastrophic failure (I live in CA with lots of mountains on my ride).
I have had rim brakes and they are pants esp in the wet love the disc brakes better stopping in both wet n dry and the rim doesn't get marked..I suppose its horses for courses which ever you prefer.
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Al is my go to guy for anything bike related. This video is another example of his teaching and presenting skills.
Thanks for one of the clearest Shimano road bike bleeding/burping videos on TH-cam.
By far the best demonstration/tutorial I have watched. Couldn't be more straightforward with your help. Thank you
Wow! I bled my brakes earlier today and was honestly disappointed in the results. The "tip" you gave to firm up the lever feel worked like MAGIC. My hydros feel awesome again! Thanks!
You explained it so well! I was intimidated about doing this before this video.
Great info, great pace, great narration, not overly verbose.
Thanks so much. one of my bikes sitting there with non-stop brake issues. bled , cleaned rotors and new pads in back..like new. I appreciate it.
First thing to try is while your bike is standing on the floor, tilt your bars way up so the reservoirs are pointing up at roughly 45° making them the highest point. Pump the lever light hard and in between while tapping the hose for awhile. Preferably unwrap your bartape first and align the hose so the bubbles easily can travel up to the reservoir. No special tools necessary. Works especially well on new bikes with spongie brakes out of the box. Cheers!
My Favorite Mechanic on youtube!
I honestly cannot believe Shimano didn't bother including the tiny funnel adapter (Y-0C698050) in their bleed kit for those of us who have slightly different levers. As far as I can see it's not even included in their 'professional' bleed kit, and has to be bought entirely on its own.
The video is great though, super simple and yet concise explanations. At least I know exactly what to do now, once I get my hands on the adapter. Thanks!
Right lever/front brake😀. I had a friend that was an old motorcycle guy and left handed that hooked up his brakes that way. I raced his bike one time and amazingly I had no problems. I guess my old motorcycle habits kicked in. 👍
I've been told it is standard in UK.
Either way, I just switched to right/front since I do 15-20 tkm per year on my motorbikes.
Feels a bit better than left/front, though.
Right lever/front brake is standard in the U.K. 👍
If the brakes are reversed (Right Lever = Front Brake), then what about the Rear Derailleur ? i dont think the left handle can handle the 11 or 12 gear shift ?! That is just mad
@@lmc333 it’s only the brake cables that need to be reversed. The levers stay in the same place.
Great video! A word of advice: don't overtighten the bleed screws! I did and ended up having to Dremmel it out of my lever after the head stripped.
Shimano bleed screws are terrible. I also stripped a bleed screw, twice actually, and also had to use a dremmel to get them out. And then I couldn;t find the bleed screws anywhere, and this was pre-pandemic. They need to ,redesign those screws!
@@1ntrask Shimano seen to make their bolts out of cheese.
I had to tap a torx bit into the rounded hole to remove the screw.
@@1ntrask also wasn’t able to find spare one for my XT lever, then found listing for the used complete shimano lever (cheaper one), but with the same dimension screw. Asked for just a screw for 1/3 of the price, the person selling it accepted my offer.
This is an excellent video. Made me know what to expect when doing something I hadn't done before. I esp. like the fact the video was dividend between the "quicky" task of adding fluid and the more complete job of replacing fluid.
It looks like the cable routed near the stem was the highest point of the system... shouldn't the bike have been rotated a bit to make the top bleed port the highest point?
I just purchased my first disc road bike two months ago and was afraid servicing the brakes would be difficult but with this video it seems feasible even for me! Thanks
Excellent instructional video on the Shimano disc brake bleeding process!
Outstanding explanation and demonstration - thanks!
great sir..thanks..and houw about forward brake ?
I was looking for a decent run through on how to bleed shimano discs, not only is your video just spot on but you are using exactly the same bike as me! I lucked out or what. Great video, thanks
Excellent explanation. Now to give it a try!
Such a great instruction video. It was so easy. Thanks.
The brake looks very squishy to me. Were you just able to pull that lever all the way and have it touch the handle bar?
The absolute clearest step by step video of this type on YT, Well done! and thanks alot!
Very instructive and clearly explained . Thank you. Where the Shimano bleeding kit can be purchased ?
Almost any bike shop can get you one. Online bicycle stores. Amazon. eBay
Straight foward and simple. Thanks, Al.
I'm bleeding my new GRX 400 rear brake for the 10th time and the le
ver steel feel soft and there is no breaking power on the wheel. What am I doing wrong? There's no more air bubbles in the whole system but it steel feel rubbish. Front break is OK, but the rear is not working as it should. Any tips?
Excellent video. TIL Aussies have reversed brakes from Americans.
Bloody nice bike, that. BMC Roadmachine 02
Thanks for the video ... very clear instruction!
excelling guide, will give it a try later!
Just used this video as reference for a brake bleed. The video was precise and was everything I needed! 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
Well presented and very clear....thanks mate
Where can I get that bleed kit from? I can only find part kits I. E. Syringe and cup/cone/funnel, or aftermarket kits.
Disc brakes are great on road & mtb....but is the hydraulic thing really necessary.Whats wrong with a quality cable disc system.
If the oil not going in my breaks leaver what can I do
The information presented sure will come in handy. Thank you for sharing!
Really excellent video...well delivered and easy to follow. Thank you Cycling Weekly
Thank you for the thorough demonstration!
Why most Channels always show how to bleed front break? Why is rear break??
Note: the newer Shimano brakes require an extension for the bleed cup. Also, I just noticed that the bike's brakes are reversed from US orientation--we have front on left and rear on right--that could be quite a shock having a rental bike, lol.
Hi! thanks for the video!!
I get a firm leaver after bleeding but when I put the wheel back the leaver becomes loose again, how can I fix it?
Take out the wheel pump the brake 3 or 4 times and put the wheel back on
@@christophercondron5388 Many thanks for the tip. I've spent days trying to work out why my brake bleed still left the leaver spongy. This fixed it a treat!
What is the suggested service interval for these brakes? Or should I just hold off until/unless I notice performance degradation?
with mineral oil (shimano) there basically is no service interval as this stuff wont attract water. bleed it when you feel a performance degradaten. in really dirty and gritty situations (mtb in the winter, etc.) it might be a good idea to check annually, as dirt and air can enter the system via the seals. its not very likely though.
I just did my BMC alpenchallenge with the quick bleed works a treat took about 10 mins there was a lot of air in the rear brake...One thing why the brake block in place of the pads ? rear brake has less travel now cannot imagine how the rear got air in the first place.
You don’t really need it for the quick bleed. Actually, it’s better to top up the system when pads are worn. It reduces lever travel a bit.
When you finished there was still way too much travel in the brake levers. You should have remedied that and displayed how you would do that.
Nice work Al!
Why is there no pressurizing step?
Should you have the bleeding tool as the highest point when pumping out all the air in the system? Maybe it is, but for me it looks as is not.
What I've found is that's difficult to do because of how the brake hose snakes its way through the frame, most especially from the rear caliper to the lever. There are so many bends for air to collect, and keeping the funnel at the highest point, especially for a new installation, while twisting the bike on the stand in all directions, without spilling fluid all over the place, has been very difficult.
The front brake is on the right lever? O_o
If I want to replace my 105 hydraulic shifters with an Ultegra model, would I need to remove all the gear cables and brake hoses to do it, or can I just swap the shifters....? All the hoses and cables are internal inside the frame and I am hoping I don’t have to fish them in and out.... it would be such a big job. Do you have a video in mind on how to?? Thanks.
Dick Tchairdjian hi. You can switch and bleed the brake hoses, but you’ll need to re-run the shifter cables back through the frame in order to get the nipples into the shifters again. I’d replace the shift cables at the same time - your new shifters will probably come with a pair. I’m considering doing the same thing with my Cannondale Synapse 105. Good luck!
you can just plug the old hoses into the new shifters. its recommended to change the olives, so you need to cut a cm and install new ones. but most of the time it works without doing so.
Great presentation. Thanks.
Bleeding the front has never been an issue for me; it's the rear I find impossible.
What is that "plastic ring" that is used at 7:36 in the video? I do not see it included in the Shimano Bleed Kit TL-BT03. What is its part number and where does one get it?
the ring is to somewhat secure the hose on the nipple. you dont really need it, but its okay to have. i had them included in my bleed kits.
Thank u! This was perfect
Excellent - thank you
Succinct guidance. Top notch video.
Great video. Thanks
is there some screw that can adjust brake lever position as on mtb brakes- i done this today as you , but brake lever is still too deep/low in compare to other brake and it has variable travel- if press once it goes far/deep, if press twice fast then is short travel of brake lever(rear brake)
on ultegra/dura-ace you have a (not really good) adjustment screw. on sora, tiagra and 105 you dont.
if the lever changes travel when pressing fast you most likely have air in the system somehwere.
Excellent video
Nice video instructive , thanks
For the first "firming up" type bleed, what was the point of taking the wheel off and messing about with the brake pads? Absolutely nothing was even DONE, down at the caliper!
i use it all the time
Which model is that bike?
BMC RoadMachine 02
The best, thanks
Excellent
Why are you bleeding the front brake and the right hand brake lever? Shouldn't it be the left lever?
An ignorant comment like that suggests you're probably American.
great vid
The shot is frequently too far from what's going on, or blocked by the mechanic's hand, to see what he's doing
What’s up with the subliminal Cycling Weekly messages?! 🤣
Good but forgot protection gloves 😄
Great vid but this skips a step in the Shimano instructions where pressure is applied to the brake and the bleed port is loosened and tightened quickly
thats one way to do it, especially when setting up from scratch. but when you only want to bleed the already installed system thats not neccesary because you wont have so many air bubbles in the system.
cheers
TIL British bikes reverse their brake handles
We left the EU so we don't have to
thiscocks Hahaa Brexit?
Heavytortoise Thanks, I was wondering about that
Pero nadie se da cuenta que está trabajando con la manera de freno derecho y la rueda o freno delantero 😂😂😂
Nope...en UK el freno delantero esta en la mano derecha. Aca se circula por la izquierda y por ley, las bicis estan seteadas asi
Really should be wearing gloves - even with mineral oil.
His RIGHT hand lever connected to FRONT brake? Is this person a motorcyclist? Something I saw back in the day = since motorcycles have clutches, which are on left side, the right hand brake is front on motorcycles -- some motorcyclists would mimic this on their bikes so they did not have to make the mind/switch as they went from bike to motorcycle to bike, etc. Or was this just to make it easier to video?
UK front brake is on the right.
Wear gloves for mineral oil 😅
Why do all these ‘pro’ mechanics show a front brake bleed? Cos it’s easier. Trust me, a rear Shimano bleed is more challenging, show us how to do that
All that for a bicycle.
Disc brakes are a waste of time here in Florida. Not a hill in sight.
Hellooo Al 😍
Must wear nitrile gloves
I am never gonna go disc again....happy with my rim brakes!
Like the disks on my Diamondback Haanjo Trail (which is why I'm here), however, I don't think they are necessary or an improvement for a road bike using up to 28m tires. I'm a big guy and still have never have lacked for stopping power using Force calipers on my Cervelo.
I like having discs with carbon clinchers. Works better than rim brakes, and safer too because it won't heat up the carbon and cause potential catastrophic failure (I live in CA with lots of mountains on my ride).
Daggy AG doubt you have ever owned a disc brake bike putz, :-)
I have had rim brakes and they are pants esp in the wet love the disc brakes better stopping in both wet n dry and the rim doesn't get marked..I suppose its horses for courses which ever you prefer.
Thank you for this very interesting information. The world would be a bleak place without you.
J
Brits, with their silly right handed front braking.
If you had even one brain cell you would be able to work out the reason why!
This is no even close to good enough. Look up the Shimano manual.
Why do people need such strong brakes if they ride on compact chainrings, you can't go that fast anyway lol
Speak for yourself. Perhaps you need to practice some cadence drills... :-)
Excellent explanation, the best one. Thanks
Great video, thanks