Always been artistically inclined...Never had any class or formal training. Just getting into Mini painting for a few months now and I gotta say that vids like these Ive taken so much from. Thank you for feeding my ogor brain!
Hi Vince. Thanks for the video - there are surprisingly few guides for doing rust on bare metal. I'd been thinking of starting a project to establish a realistic metallic scheme for my Iron Warriors, where I hoped to borrow more techs from historical painting, but it's very difficult to find examples for bare metal surfaces, especially flat ones (for vehicles). I guessed maybe you'd heavily sponge over a dark brown across the rusted areas and work your way up the contrast around where water collects. All the streaking effects and mud I thought'd be similar between painted and bare metal (and then with the hazard stripes I can directly lift all the techs from painted metals). The other thought I had would be to use enamels to coat across the surface, and then reactivate with mineral spirits and wipe it off the larger surface with cotton or a q-tip, to where it's localised to the recesses (I've never used them before though, and I'd like to avoid them if I can). Any insights are very welcome. I wanted to start on a Vindicator, since it's not to difficult to figure out which areas to block for specific things... and I also want one. Cheers!
I have several videos on more rust, including fully rusting things out (such as bare metal), so you may want to check on those - th-cam.com/video/xiTlYHXs5kU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the tutorial. The problem is your sword looked great before you started. My swords look bad, and no amount of rust or weathering makes them look good. :)
+Matthias Schäfer That is all the light difference. I can't use the Ottlite I normally paint with as it blows out the video and you have to watch your light balance on bright colors like orange.
Hey Vince, how much of your usual steel shading would you do before trying this effect? I painted an Ungor champion's sword last night, and tried following the steps you did on the Tzaangor Blade in one of your previous shading TMM videos (Metal Colour Steel base, Vallejo Black Ink to shade, Dark Aluminum midtone, Silver highlight, Gulliman blue glaze, Silver edge highlight) but when I applied this rust technique after, it ended up looking a bit funny. In particular, the black ink shading stood out like a sore thumb. Also, is this still your preferred technique for rust, or have you moved on to another technique? Or do you still use this one but have another rust and weathering technique for your "important" models (heroes, competition pieces etc.)? Thanks for all your help!
So to some degree I still use this, but here is a newer video - th-cam.com/video/hsgFPMsnAKE/w-d-xo.html So I can tell you why that didn't work overall I suspect. The blue was probably a challenge, blue represents clean, fresh shiny steel reflecting the sky. Rusty blades by necessity don't reflect in that way. You want to work a little more sepia and browns into the metal and wheel back the overall shine. Take a look at that video and see if that helps. :)
Dude that's really cool, thank you so much! Quick question: would you proceed the same way if you're painting rust on something that's been painted, instead of naked steel? I'm thinking red or blue armor for an Ork vehicle, for example. Again, thank you.
So if we are talking about painted or enameled Steel, there are several ways you can show rust or damage. I wouldn't go this heavy, but one option is the same. You can stipple rust spots by stabbing with your brush some typhus corrosion and then give them the light drybrush of orange. You can also carefully hit the edge (lower edge if it exists) with a hint of white to show the edge of the paint peel hitting the light. If you want to go full on rust breaking through paint, you can also go to the salt/chipping method, which I cover here - th-cam.com/video/cH8hj3skuPA/w-d-xo.html
What do you suggest instead of typhus corrosion? Because I'm painting some mushrooms zombies and I want to do rust so bad that I can't wait for the product to arrive
Could you use old rust from the Vallejo game effect set anywhere in this? I just got the set and will be attempting a lot of rust on my death guard marines.
Sure, it could replace the typhus corrosion step. It's rather heavy, though it doesn't have the same full texture as Typhus Corrosion, but it's near the same color.
Ok good too know look forward to messing around with it and see what I can come up with. For the mud and stuff would u use it with a dry brush or straight out of the bottle?
Always been artistically inclined...Never had any class or formal training. Just getting into Mini painting for a few months now and I gotta say that vids like these Ive taken so much from. Thank you for feeding my ogor brain!
+Larry Barba Glad to help! There are many more I want to do, so look for more for the foreseeable future.
Hi Vince. Thanks for the video - there are surprisingly few guides for doing rust on bare metal. I'd been thinking of starting a project to establish a realistic metallic scheme for my Iron Warriors, where I hoped to borrow more techs from historical painting, but it's very difficult to find examples for bare metal surfaces, especially flat ones (for vehicles). I guessed maybe you'd heavily sponge over a dark brown across the rusted areas and work your way up the contrast around where water collects. All the streaking effects and mud I thought'd be similar between painted and bare metal (and then with the hazard stripes I can directly lift all the techs from painted metals). The other thought I had would be to use enamels to coat across the surface, and then reactivate with mineral spirits and wipe it off the larger surface with cotton or a q-tip, to where it's localised to the recesses (I've never used them before though, and I'd like to avoid them if I can). Any insights are very welcome. I wanted to start on a Vindicator, since it's not to difficult to figure out which areas to block for specific things... and I also want one. Cheers!
I have several videos on more rust, including fully rusting things out (such as bare metal), so you may want to check on those - th-cam.com/video/xiTlYHXs5kU/w-d-xo.html
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! That's really helpful!
Yes! I really need this for my unit of grail pilgrim! Thanks
+Archaeos 1861 Glad to help! Thanks for watching as always.
How do you recommend varnishing the rusted details once finished? I want to preserve all these layers, but matte varnish seems a little too strong
Honestly, I wouldn't. I don't generally varnish metals.
Thanks for the tutorial. The problem is your sword looked great before you started. My swords look bad, and no amount of rust or weathering makes them look good. :)
Well, I have many videos on that as well in the playlist. ;)
Great stuff mate
+IDICBeer Thank you sir, much appreciated as always.
The end photo has so much more orange parts on it. Did you add more after recording? Or is it a light issue with your videocamera?
+Matthias Schäfer That is all the light difference. I can't use the Ottlite I normally paint with as it blows out the video and you have to watch your light balance on bright colors like orange.
Hey Vince, how much of your usual steel shading would you do before trying this effect? I painted an Ungor champion's sword last night, and tried following the steps you did on the Tzaangor Blade in one of your previous shading TMM videos (Metal Colour Steel base, Vallejo Black Ink to shade, Dark Aluminum midtone, Silver highlight, Gulliman blue glaze, Silver edge highlight) but when I applied this rust technique after, it ended up looking a bit funny. In particular, the black ink shading stood out like a sore thumb.
Also, is this still your preferred technique for rust, or have you moved on to another technique? Or do you still use this one but have another rust and weathering technique for your "important" models (heroes, competition pieces etc.)?
Thanks for all your help!
So to some degree I still use this, but here is a newer video - th-cam.com/video/hsgFPMsnAKE/w-d-xo.html
So I can tell you why that didn't work overall I suspect. The blue was probably a challenge, blue represents clean, fresh shiny steel reflecting the sky. Rusty blades by necessity don't reflect in that way. You want to work a little more sepia and browns into the metal and wheel back the overall shine. Take a look at that video and see if that helps. :)
Dude that's really cool, thank you so much! Quick question: would you proceed the same way if you're painting rust on something that's been painted, instead of naked steel? I'm thinking red or blue armor for an Ork vehicle, for example. Again, thank you.
So if we are talking about painted or enameled Steel, there are several ways you can show rust or damage. I wouldn't go this heavy, but one option is the same.
You can stipple rust spots by stabbing with your brush some typhus corrosion and then give them the light drybrush of orange. You can also carefully hit the edge (lower edge if it exists) with a hint of white to show the edge of the paint peel hitting the light.
If you want to go full on rust breaking through paint, you can also go to the salt/chipping method, which I cover here - th-cam.com/video/cH8hj3skuPA/w-d-xo.html
Looks killer
Thank you, much appreciated.
What do you suggest instead of typhus corrosion? Because I'm painting some mushrooms zombies and I want to do rust so bad that I can't wait for the product to arrive
Just some brown pigment in various brown paints will work, if you don't have that, even Rhimox Hide can do great work when stippled.
@@VinceVenturella double thanks (because I find a similar answer in the video on rusty crusty pigments)
Could you use old rust from the Vallejo game effect set anywhere in this? I just got the set and will be attempting a lot of rust on my death guard marines.
Sure, it could replace the typhus corrosion step. It's rather heavy, though it doesn't have the same full texture as Typhus Corrosion, but it's near the same color.
Ahh ok I was curious about that paint. Do u see it having good uses for anything else? I do have typhus corrosion as well.
I use it for mud and dirt effects as well, it has a wonderful tone for dry mud.
Ok good too know look forward to messing around with it and see what I can come up with. For the mud and stuff would u use it with a dry brush or straight out of the bottle?
Yes, though it's good for stippling as well.