Brilliant- gave me confidence to repair my nice system - saved me a lot of money . My capacitors were in the control box but both changed and voila! Many thanks!
I know this video is a couple of years old, but just a tip on this, your capacitors do not need to be in the underground motor box at all. They are normally installed on the motor lines in the control box where they will stay nice and clean without issue. It does the exact same job. Also, use a circuit board sealer spray (RS do a great one) and spray the control box ciruit board back and front. (Turn the power off at fuse board first!) this seals the board from damp (rusting contacts), but also saves you a few hundred when a snail or bug shorts the circuit board by climbing up it! (This happens so so often and a £10 spray will save you the price of a replacement control board) Your junction boxes in the underground boxes are going to be way better off if you filled them with a Electrical Insulating & Jointing Resin. This seals the connection block in the junction box by pouring this non conductive resin into them to the top and when dry protects for life. Just a few tips i hope help!
Thanks for your inputs, all sound advice. I’m not sure it’s possible to move the capacitor to the control box end (why didn’t they do it originally?) as it may need an extra wire in the cable. It’s too long ago to remember and I can’t tell from the video.
good video.thanks.My gates will open for about a foot, and then stall. they are gone very weak.the smallest wind will hold them back, getting gradually worse. wonder if it is the same issue.
Hi there a little detail on those capacitors: they are often used on electric motors not only for the power spike but also to provide a 3 phase 220 power supply. in this video is used to cope the spike of the turning on. so u could use a bigger capacitor. but for example in water pump single phase, they're used to make the second phase so it's mandatory to keep the same capacity (micro farad). To the viewers , keep in mind here is running deadly power 220v \110v do not play dumb... it's your skin ! +Nice video buddy, it's time to block those ripoffs were we can do it safely and without messing up :D Keep spreading the voice !
@@comeinhandynow thanks to you for the video. it happened in my apartment comples the "plumber" ripped off once, and tried to rippoff twice. couse both water pumps doesnt works . are broken. due it's apartment complex equipment i cant touch it as part of the plant, but once he replaced the first fail pump, i told him well remove both "broken" pumps. i watched both. both capacitor literally were exploded. What happened: we had a thunder storm few days earlier and within 2 days both pums were tripping the magnetotermic protection. once both pumps were disconnected and considered broken by the "expert plumber" i was able to open em (just the top electrical compartment, i have not the skill and the equipment to work on the mecanical part) found both capacitor blewed up . some issue to find the correct one ( capacity but also the physical size due has to be placed inside the submerged pump) i spent 14 euro included taxes and 4 hours between find the the correct capacitors, buy em, open both pumps replace the caps and clean the inside of the pump due was spilled with the electrolitic liquid of the blasted capacitor) result: we paid over 700 euros to install a new pump. model EBARA RIGHT 100 MA (the version with floating switch and wire) the work done by that "plumber" was around less of 30 min unscrewing 2 water pipe connectors, 3 screw for the wiring and 4 screw of the electrical box) changing the pump and screwing back it. while he was installing the new pump i showed him the blasted capacitor and i told him THIS is why is not working. his answer was" well if i fix this i'll not work anymore" ... information: the same identical pump was avaible at 250 euro vat included at bricomen (sort of home depot chain shops) same pump was avaible AT plumbing equipment specialized shop for the price of 400 euro vat included to me (not professional installer). the EBARA official price list is 500 euro + vat ( but here in italy from the official price then are applied discounts from 30% till 60% according to their commercial agreement: this is what ebara italy commercial call center told me by phone)
It’s a throw away society, especially in the trades. Quicker to just charge the customer for new stuff like pumps, even though most of it is still fine and it’s just a cheap capacitor needed. In a lot of electric motor items it’s the capacitors that’s fail, so it’s the first thing to check. There’s a similar fix for failed extractor fan motors and a jet washer motor on my channel.
@@comeinhandynow true. most common problem is also that the "tecnicians" that came to do the job often they DO NOT KNOW due lack of knoledge. to a qualified electrician i had to explan what means to put in parallel a lamp to a siren. was shoked. Or they dont care of it, due more pieces they change more money they get. on other side in apartment complex we're at mercy of administrators. couse u can't do some repairs due u miss the papers, but not the skills :(
Thanks for the quick reply. I temperarely connected to a new board just to see if it was faulty but blew the fuse straight away. CHA light keeps flashing and no voltage detected on open or closed wires (brown and black)??..
Hi, I had my gates moved in closer to my house around 6ft but now the motors are dead, it’s all connected back up but I do believe the sensors outside of the gates are not in-line, would they cause the motors to not work if the beam is (broken)?
Thank you for your response, greatly appreciated! is there a way/device that I know they are aligned as the ground level is off and also the fence is not 90° that they are mounted on?
Would the capacitor being faulty cause the main fuse board in the house to trip out or is the motor faulty? If I plug out motor 2 the other motor works fine but as soon as I plug in motor 2 it trips out the main fuse board.
water in the box holding the capacitor is probably causing this. it is creating a leakage from live to earth which triggers the RCD in the house. you need to drain the motor box and dismantle the box holding the capacitor and seal everything back up again. check the drain channels for the motor box to stop it filling with water as well. be sure to turn of the electricity to your gates or unplug then motor while you do this so as not to get shocked!
@@comeinhandynow Thanks for the quick reply. The capacitors on our gates are in the control panel and bone dry, both were changed and the problem is still there. The box holding the motor is full of water but it has been for the last 13 years. Could the motor be faulty after all this time? Thanks for your help.
Hi could you please explain to me why my gates are not closing properly one side catches up with the other and jams before touchdown then it jams and then we have to give it a nudge to close
The delay for each gate will need adjusting. This is a variable resistor potentiometer (‘pot) on the control unit circuit board. There should be a diagram inside the cover to help find it. Experiment with different settings. On one of my gates I couldn’t get any adjustments to work 100% so I fiddled it by putting a couple of bricks where the gate opens fully to stop it opening quite so much. That gave that gate a head start when it came to closing!
Hard to say from here. Test with the motor connected and measure between the 3 different phase wires. If one or two pairs of tests are not showing an AC voltage then maybe the capacitor has given up. Cheap to try a new capacitor so try that first.
@@comeinhandynow OK... E.S.R. is Highly Important in every situation because of what it is . a Capacitance test is not going to give you accurate readings, and i didn't notice that you even did that, right? From what i saw, You basically went down that "experience"" road (which i understand) and just went "Yep, it's the cap". Sure you based it off no noise before and noise after but still if you're changing capacitors You should look out for it A Cap that has 450V 10uF is going to give a good ESR Between 1.1 - 4.2 Ohm, it's not that hard to test Now your cap had ruptured and you figured, Oh well, it's stuffed why bother measuring, right FOR KNOWLEDGE ! Why else Now you said it's a quick fix so is this one of those , it's a quick fix situation so we won't bother doing all that ? Good solid troubleshooting is important, if talking about Caps, ESR possible is the most important thing you need to consider anyway this started as me being curious as to the reading and has now turned into ........... Weird, Because you didn't do it Not really sure what to say
Thanks for this video. If I wanted to add a wifi relay like a Sonoff to open the gates with my phone, do you know which two terminals in the Nice control box I would need to connect to? Cheers
A nice idea! I haven't looked into this so don't know, sorry. There may be an led that lights up when the fob is pressed and you could try working out the circuitry around that to see if there is a point to use.
If you could help me one of my gates is working longer than the other so its over shooting...I've reset the positions but one leaf of the gate keeps going out of sync with the other leaf ..it's a different setup to the one in the video it has the actuators on the gate itself.. Do you know what might be wrong?
very helpful. I have an A6F which suddenly stopped working today, blew the fuse in the fuse box for some reason. Reset the fuse but not no LED's coming on. Any thoughts anyone? Power is on at the gate as I have some lights coming on there.
Use a multimeter (on voltage, ac) to see if power is coming out of the power supply transformer, or going into it. It’s a process of locating where the voltages stop to locate the faulty part, probably. Be safe though, don’t touch any mains electricity parts with hands.
Nice gates. Im having a problem with my electric gates. The gates opened with the remote but now they won't close. I've checked the sensors and the infrared beams are working fine. They started working after about 12hours and worked for a while, but stopped again when I opened them. They stayed in the open position and won't close. So the problem is intermittent The light on the receiver is not staying on should it? Any suggestions. Thanks
@@comeinhandynow I came home to have a look at the gates. I had the linkage disconnected so they could be closed manually. Unfortunately my son pushed the button and the motor arm went through the wire to the motor and tripped a fuse in the house and blew a fuse on the pcb. I repaired the wires and did as you suggested with the link between 23 and 27. All three leds were on. I pushed the button to close the gates, motor turned slightly and the fuse on the pcb blew. I checked the wires that were damaged and tried the fuse again. The 3 leds were on. I pushed the button and the motor turned slightly and blew fuse again. I was wondering have you any ideas. ? Thanks Gary
@@garybarron8014 It does sound like a wiring error or short. Could be a blown transistor on pcb. If you have a double gate try swapping left motor connection / cable with the right. Obviously they will wont be synched well, or try just one motor wire to either right or left. That will allow you to identify if it is one motor shorting, and which one. Double check wiring near cut and in connection box as well.
My system is quite old, it’s was not working well when I moved in here. The splined connection from the motor to actuator arm was well worn. I had to weld up one! Be sure they have the drain holes actually going somewhere as my motor boxes were full of water. It probably no worse than any other system and maybe better than most. IMHO.
Mine are also on a slope. Big problem. In heavy rain the water gushes dawn the slope, up the small edge around the motor box into inside the box. The drains were just into the ground a foot down. Rapidly clogged and overloaded. Better to have the drains reappear further down the slope, at the surface, at least they could be rodded out then. I built small concrete walls in front of the motor boxes to divert the water flow away from the boxes. Hopefully better now.
Do you mean hydraulic oil? (Hydronics is the use of a liquid heat transfer medium). Either way, no hydraulic action is involved it is just mechanical gearing. The motor insides probably has oil in it to keep the water out and lubricate it. Just a guess though.
I tested the main wires from the junction box to the motor and they are all dead, no power, the sensors on the wall are working , since there is no power in the juction box that goes to the motor, it means something is blow in the main box unit? If you could share please.
Thanks for sharing the video, I learn something today. Quick question : I have a decade old swinging autogate. 1 arm opens normally while the other is very sluggish and stops halfway. Could it be the capacitor too? (I doubt motors fail easily)
I would say its probably mechanical resistance, like rusty joints or debris in the box. Try greasing all the joints, the main gate one and the arms. To check if the capacitor is causing this try swapping it with the other motor one that is ok.
comeinhandynow Hi! Thanks for taking the time to respond and helping a complete stranger! :) greasing isn't the solution. I have this www.autogatesingapore.com/ranger I haven't yet open the casing but from the pictures I can find online, I don't see any capacitor. Do swing gates operate without capacitors? Assuming there is a capacitor, how to short it out so that I don't get myself electrocuted? ;)
Open up the casing. It might show something, like some joints that need greasing. The capacitor is in a waterproof box, if it is there. Just disconnect it without touching the copper ends and connect the ends together to remove any charge if you are worried about that.
@@comeinhandynow this could damage the capacitor or even blewit up. use a resistance high ohm and high watt to discharge it. we're talking of capacitor for high voltage. so if are charged they present the same value of volts of your plugs. DANGER
I have one gate of a set not working. When you remotely try to close the gates one closes the other doesn't react at all. You can hear a noise coming from the motor but nothing happens. I have not opened the ground box yet but was wondering what your thoughts on it might be. What are the usual symptoms for this scenario? Faulty motor,obstruction or could it be simply a clean out of the box and lubricating the joints? Appreciate any advice
Best open the box and see if the motor is turning. If you can hear it operating then I guess it’s probably the splines that are worn out with respect to the splines on the operating arm. If that is the case you might get a bit more life out of the setup by tightening or replacing the bolt that goes though the side of the arm into the motor shaft. On most of mine I have had to weld the shaft of the motor to the arm for a more permanent fix. Just be careful to do it in quick stages so as not to overheat and damage the motor. Cool it with water in between.
My problem is that my gates do the opposite to what the control box says. e.g. The control box shows gate open when, in fact it is closed and vice versa! Has anyone any advice? As far as I can see all wiring etc is correct.
@Rone Pharaoh Hounds. Yep, you got it in one. I thought the wiring in the box was wrong. I even reversed the wiring in the box. Then I realised that my Dad wired the motor. It was the motor that was wired wrong! Problem sorted and thank you very much for your response. Good luck to ya.
Please make sure that when you have repaired your gate, there is sufficient safety devices to ensure safe operation. This video looks like addition safety edges would be required.
Nathan Donkin I’m fixing a gate not installing one and it might help others in fixing their own. Why not be more useful to people and actually explain any useful additions for safety
@@comeinhandynow unless it is your gate, then it doesn't matter if you were installing or fixing, you have to work to the regulations it's your duty of care to know what you are doing is going to be safe. It's not a point of being more useful, doing a risk assessment on an automatic gate is a complex thing, and should only be done by someone who is properly trained. An automatic gate is a machine and as such falls under the machinery directive, 2006/42/EC... 11 deaths in as many years and countless more accidents, with one engineer, even going to prison for three years last year..... please look at the gate safe/DHF/HSE websites for more information.
@@nathandonkin6705 It is my gate. And this is just my story of how I fixed it. No change to the design or functionality of the gate. This is just my story.
Seriously...a whole video and you didn't actually explain what the fault symptom is !! Doesn't move at all... moves a bit.... opens partway... etc... How are we supposed to use this video if we can't complete it to our own fault... (unless I missed it :-) ) . " IF you've got a similar problem..." he says.... I've no idea, he didn't say what his problem was !
Seriously? Within 16 seconds I say “neither of the two motors is working”. The video description says “electric gate has stopped working”. Are you concentrating?
Hi thanks for this. Do you know any company that would be interested in fixing or replacing electric gates for an apartment complex in Ireland?
No, try web search.
Brilliant- gave me confidence to repair my nice system - saved me a lot of money . My capacitors were in the control box but both changed and voila! Many thanks!
Glad it helped, nice to hear feedback.
I know this video is a couple of years old, but just a tip on this, your capacitors do not need to be in the underground motor box at all. They are normally installed on the motor lines in the control box where they will stay nice and clean without issue. It does the exact same job.
Also, use a circuit board sealer spray (RS do a great one) and spray the control box ciruit board back and front. (Turn the power off at fuse board first!) this seals the board from damp (rusting contacts), but also saves you a few hundred when a snail or bug shorts the circuit board by climbing up it! (This happens so so often and a £10 spray will save you the price of a replacement control board)
Your junction boxes in the underground boxes are going to be way better off if you filled them with a Electrical Insulating & Jointing Resin. This seals the connection block in the junction box by pouring this non conductive resin into them to the top and when dry protects for life.
Just a few tips i hope help!
Thanks for your inputs, all sound advice. I’m not sure it’s possible to move the capacitor to the control box end (why didn’t they do it originally?) as it may need an extra wire in the cable. It’s too long ago to remember and I can’t tell from the video.
@@comeinhandynow yep, just move the capacitor to the control circuit board. Much easier for future malfunctioning...
@@basabra Good tip, cheers.
Whats the spray called? Can you link it for me 🙏🤞👍
good video.thanks.My gates will open for about a foot, and then stall. they are gone very weak.the smallest wind will hold them back, getting gradually worse. wonder if it is the same issue.
It could be. Cheap to try replacing them. Give the boxes a good clean out too and lubricate the joints.
Hi there a little detail on those capacitors: they are often used on electric motors not only for the power spike but also to provide a 3 phase 220 power supply.
in this video is used to cope the spike of the turning on. so u could use a bigger capacitor. but for example in water pump single phase, they're used to make the second phase so it's mandatory to keep the same capacity (micro farad).
To the viewers , keep in mind here is running deadly power 220v \110v do not play dumb... it's your skin !
+Nice video buddy, it's time to block those ripoffs were we can do it safely and without messing up :D
Keep spreading the voice !
Thanks for your input.
@@comeinhandynow thanks to you for the video. it happened in my apartment comples the "plumber" ripped off once, and tried to rippoff twice. couse both water pumps doesnt works . are broken.
due it's apartment complex equipment i cant touch it as part of the plant, but once he replaced the first fail pump, i told him well remove both "broken" pumps. i watched both. both capacitor literally were exploded.
What happened:
we had a thunder storm few days earlier and within 2 days both pums were tripping the magnetotermic protection.
once both pumps were disconnected and considered broken by the "expert plumber" i was able to open em (just the top electrical compartment, i have not the skill and the equipment to work on the mecanical part) found both capacitor blewed up . some issue to find the correct one ( capacity but also the physical size due has to be placed inside the submerged pump)
i spent 14 euro included taxes and 4 hours between find the the correct capacitors, buy em, open both pumps replace the caps and clean the inside of the pump due was spilled with the electrolitic liquid of the blasted capacitor)
result:
we paid over 700 euros to install a new pump. model EBARA RIGHT 100 MA (the version with floating switch and wire)
the work done by that "plumber" was around less of 30 min unscrewing 2 water pipe connectors, 3 screw for the wiring and 4 screw of the electrical box) changing the pump and screwing back it.
while he was installing the new pump i showed him the blasted capacitor and i told him THIS is why is not working. his answer was" well if i fix this i'll not work anymore" ...
information:
the same identical pump was avaible at 250 euro vat included at bricomen (sort of home depot chain shops)
same pump was avaible AT plumbing equipment specialized shop for the price of 400 euro vat included to me (not professional installer).
the EBARA official price list is 500 euro + vat ( but here in italy from the official price then are applied discounts from 30% till 60% according to their commercial agreement: this is what ebara italy commercial call center told me by phone)
It’s a throw away society, especially in the trades. Quicker to just charge the customer for new stuff like pumps, even though most of it is still fine and it’s just a cheap capacitor needed. In a lot of electric motor items it’s the capacitors that’s fail, so it’s the first thing to check. There’s a similar fix for failed extractor fan motors and a jet washer motor on my channel.
@@comeinhandynow true. most common problem is also that the "tecnicians" that came to do the job often they DO NOT KNOW due lack of knoledge. to a qualified electrician i had to explan what means to put in parallel a lamp to a siren. was shoked.
Or they dont care of it, due more pieces they change more money they get. on other side in apartment complex we're at mercy of administrators. couse u can't do some repairs due u miss the papers, but not the skills :(
Hi was just wondering if the fuse in the control box keeps blowing is that more of a electrical fault than the capacitors failing??
It is just a different fault, probably caused by a faulty component on the board (transistor or other capacitor short?)
Thanks for the quick reply. I temperarely connected to a new board just to see if it was faulty but blew the fuse straight away. CHA light keeps flashing and no voltage detected on open or closed wires (brown and black)??..
Hi, I had my gates moved in closer to my house around 6ft but now the motors are dead, it’s all connected back up but I do believe the sensors outside of the gates are not in-line, would they cause the motors to not work if the beam is (broken)?
Yes
Thank you for your response, greatly appreciated! is there a way/device that I know they are aligned as the ground level is off and also the fence is not 90° that they are mounted on?
@@foleylad54 most photocells can be adjust inside the housing.
Would the capacitor being faulty cause the main fuse board in the house to trip out or is the motor faulty? If I plug out motor 2 the other motor works fine but as soon as I plug in motor 2 it trips out the main fuse board.
water in the box holding the capacitor is probably causing this. it is creating a leakage from live to earth which triggers the RCD in the house. you need to drain the motor box and dismantle the box holding the capacitor and seal everything back up again. check the drain channels for the motor box to stop it filling with water as well. be sure to turn of the electricity to your gates or unplug then motor while you do this so as not to get shocked!
@@comeinhandynow Thanks for the quick reply. The capacitors on our gates are in the control panel and bone dry, both were changed and the problem is still there. The box holding the motor is full of water but it has been for the last 13 years. Could the motor be faulty after all this time? Thanks for your help.
there must be a junction box in the flooded motor box to connect the motor to the external cable. That will be the problem area.
Hi could you please explain to me why my gates are not closing properly one side catches up with the other and jams before touchdown then it jams and then we have to give it a nudge to close
The delay for each gate will need adjusting. This is a variable resistor potentiometer (‘pot) on the control unit circuit board. There should be a diagram inside the cover to help find it. Experiment with different settings. On one of my gates I couldn’t get any adjustments to work 100% so I fiddled it by putting a couple of bricks where the gate opens fully to stop it opening quite so much. That gave that gate a head start when it came to closing!
Hi. I have a daspi system but the remote only works close to the unit not from the car. How do I adjust the working distance
Have you changed the remote batteries?
@@comeinhandynow yes had new batteries fitted and brought a new remote just in case.
My motor connections are not showing any voltage. What does this mean? I can't see fuses on the control panel
Hard to say from here. Test with the motor connected and measure between the 3 different phase wires. If one or two pairs of tests are not showing an AC voltage then maybe the capacitor has given up. Cheap to try a new capacitor so try that first.
What was the E.S.R. of the Faulty Cap that you removed ?
I didn’t look for it, or look it up, as I don’t think it is that critical in this application.
@@comeinhandynow
OK...
E.S.R. is Highly Important in every situation because of what it is .
a Capacitance test is not going to give you accurate readings, and i didn't notice that you even did that, right?
From what i saw, You basically went down that "experience"" road (which i understand) and just went "Yep, it's the cap".
Sure you based it off no noise before and noise after
but still if you're changing capacitors You should look out for it
A Cap that has 450V 10uF is going to give a good ESR Between
1.1 - 4.2 Ohm, it's not that hard to test
Now your cap had ruptured and you figured, Oh well, it's stuffed why bother measuring, right
FOR KNOWLEDGE ! Why else
Now you said it's a quick fix
so is this one of those , it's a quick fix situation so we won't bother doing all that ?
Good solid troubleshooting is important,
if talking about Caps, ESR possible is the most important thing you need to consider
anyway this started as me being curious as to the reading
and has now turned into ........... Weird, Because you didn't do it
Not really sure what to say
Thanks for this video. If I wanted to add a wifi relay like a Sonoff to open the gates with my phone, do you know which two terminals in the Nice control box I would need to connect to? Cheers
A nice idea! I haven't looked into this so don't know, sorry. There may be an led that lights up when the fob is pressed and you could try working out the circuitry around that to see if there is a point to use.
Try www.digiGate.co.uk - they really know their stuff and can provide all the necessary bits
If you could help me one of my gates is working longer than the other so its over shooting...I've reset the positions but one leaf of the gate keeps going out of sync with the other leaf ..it's a different setup to the one in the video it has the actuators on the gate itself.. Do you know what might be wrong?
Not sure. On mine the first gate stops against a metal peg in the ground, the second stops against the first.
We've got a FAAC 391 and one side is slow. Is there a common fix for that beside a new motor? What should i be looking for?
You could try lubricating the joints with grease, on the gate joints and on the motor linkages.
very helpful. I have an A6F which suddenly stopped working today, blew the fuse in the fuse box for some reason. Reset the fuse but not no LED's coming on. Any thoughts anyone? Power is on at the gate as I have some lights coming on there.
Use a multimeter (on voltage, ac) to see if power is coming out of the power supply transformer, or going into it. It’s a process of locating where the voltages stop to locate the faulty part, probably. Be safe though, don’t touch any mains electricity parts with hands.
@@comeinhandynow I think it might be the little 5amp fuse in the control panel as no power what do ever.
checked the fuse. it was burnt out. I had a replacement and that burnt that out as soon as power supply back on again. any ideas on what else to check
Slug burnt on the back of the pcb
Nice gates.
Im having a problem with my electric gates. The gates opened with the remote but now they won't close. I've checked the sensors and the infrared beams are working fine.
They started working after about 12hours and worked for a while, but stopped again when I opened them. They stayed in the open position and won't close. So the problem is intermittent
The light on the receiver is not staying on should it?
Any suggestions. Thanks
When the beam is cut the light is on so there is your problem, it is not picking up the light beam very well. Maybe an alignment issue?
@@comeinhandynow I came home to have a look at the gates. I had the linkage disconnected so they could be closed manually. Unfortunately my son pushed the button and the motor arm went through the wire to the motor and tripped a fuse in the house and blew a fuse on the pcb.
I repaired the wires and did as you suggested with the link between 23 and 27. All three leds were on. I pushed the button to close the gates, motor turned slightly and the fuse on the pcb blew. I checked the wires that were damaged and tried the fuse again. The 3 leds were on. I pushed the button and the motor turned slightly and blew fuse again.
I was wondering have you any ideas. ?
Thanks
Gary
@@garybarron8014 It does sound like a wiring error or short. Could be a blown transistor on pcb. If you have a double gate try swapping left motor connection / cable with the right. Obviously they will wont be synched well, or try just one motor wire to either right or left. That will allow you to identify if it is one motor shorting, and which one. Double check wiring near cut and in connection box as well.
@@comeinhandynow thanks I'll try that. If the motor is shorting is that a new motor ?
@@garybarron8014 unlikely to be motor internals
TNS is the bolt manufacturer and 8.8 is the tensile strength. 8.8 is the most common rating for high tensile bolts.
Thanks for the info.
My local supplier is pushing this NICE brand for my new install. You've not had any other problems other than the capacitor?
My system is quite old, it’s was not working well when I moved in here. The splined connection from the motor to actuator arm was well worn. I had to weld up one! Be sure they have the drain holes actually going somewhere as my motor boxes were full of water.
It probably no worse than any other system and maybe better than most. IMHO.
comeinhandynow
Drainage seems a common issue, I'm on a slope so less of a problem, but I will make sure it drains well. Thanks for your reply.
Mine are also on a slope. Big problem. In heavy rain the water gushes dawn the slope, up the small edge around the motor box into inside the box. The drains were just into the ground a foot down. Rapidly clogged and overloaded. Better to have the drains reappear further down the slope, at the surface, at least they could be rodded out then.
I built small concrete walls in front of the motor boxes to divert the water flow away from the boxes. Hopefully better now.
Thanks for the ideas to check!
Cheers. Hope it helps.
Do these things take hydronic oil?
Do you mean hydraulic oil? (Hydronics is the use of a liquid heat transfer medium). Either way, no hydraulic action is involved it is just mechanical gearing. The motor insides probably has oil in it to keep the water out and lubricate it. Just a guess though.
comeinhandynow the gear box is full of grease there is no oil in there
My panels says error 15 please help
Do you have the link for the capacitor
See the video description section
Thank you for this video... I appreciate the time taken and hopefully it will help me fix mine tomorrow morning!
Good luck. Thanks for commenting.
I tested the main wires from the junction box to the motor and they are all dead, no power, the sensors on the wall are working , since there is no power in the juction box that goes to the motor, it means something is blow in the main box unit? If you could share please.
Thanks for sharing the video, I learn something today. Quick question : I have a decade old swinging autogate. 1 arm opens normally while the other is very sluggish and stops halfway. Could it be the capacitor too? (I doubt motors fail easily)
I would say its probably mechanical resistance, like rusty joints or debris in the box. Try greasing all the joints, the main gate one and the arms.
To check if the capacitor is causing this try swapping it with the other motor one that is ok.
comeinhandynow Hi! Thanks for taking the time to respond and helping a complete stranger! :) greasing isn't the solution. I have this www.autogatesingapore.com/ranger I haven't yet open the casing but from the pictures I can find online, I don't see any capacitor. Do swing gates operate without capacitors? Assuming there is a capacitor, how to short it out so that I don't get myself electrocuted? ;)
Open up the casing. It might show something, like some joints that need greasing. The capacitor is in a waterproof box, if it is there. Just disconnect it without touching the copper ends and connect the ends together to remove any charge if you are worried about that.
@@comeinhandynow this could damage the capacitor or even blewit up. use a resistance high ohm and high watt to discharge it. we're talking of capacitor for high voltage. so if are charged they present the same value of volts of your plugs. DANGER
I have one gate of a set not working. When you remotely try to close the gates one closes the other doesn't react at all. You can hear a noise coming from the motor but nothing happens. I have not opened the ground box yet but was wondering what your thoughts on it might be. What are the usual symptoms for this scenario? Faulty motor,obstruction or could it be simply a clean out of the box and lubricating the joints? Appreciate any advice
Best open the box and see if the motor is turning. If you can hear it operating then I guess it’s probably the splines that are worn out with respect to the splines on the operating arm. If that is the case you might get a bit more life out of the setup by tightening or replacing the bolt that goes though the side of the arm into the motor shaft. On most of mine I have had to weld the shaft of the motor to the arm for a more permanent fix. Just be careful to do it in quick stages so as not to overheat and damage the motor. Cool it with water in between.
Thanks for replying. I'll open it up to get a closer look inside and see how I get on
@@phillipcantillon8189 then? what was?
My problem is that my gates do the opposite to what the control box says. e.g. The control box shows gate open when, in fact it is closed and vice versa!
Has anyone any advice? As far as I can see all wiring etc is correct.
@Rone Pharaoh Hounds. Yep, you got it in one. I thought the wiring in the box was wrong. I even reversed the wiring in the box. Then I realised that my Dad wired the motor. It was the motor that was wired wrong!
Problem sorted and thank you very much for your response.
Good luck to ya.
Please make sure that when you have repaired your gate, there is sufficient safety devices to ensure safe operation. This video looks like addition safety edges would be required.
Like what? The gate already stops if it meets any obstruction and it has a nearby light beam detector across the entrance.
@@comeinhandynow if you don't know the answer to that you should not be fixing gates and especially making videos about it.
Nathan Donkin I’m fixing a gate not installing one and it might help others in fixing their own. Why not be more useful to people and actually explain any useful additions for safety
@@comeinhandynow unless it is your gate, then it doesn't matter if you were installing or fixing, you have to work to the regulations it's your duty of care to know what you are doing is going to be safe. It's not a point of being more useful, doing a risk assessment on an automatic gate is a complex thing, and should only be done by someone who is properly trained. An automatic gate is a machine and as such falls under the machinery directive, 2006/42/EC...
11 deaths in as many years and countless more accidents, with one engineer, even going to prison for three years last year..... please look at the gate safe/DHF/HSE websites for more information.
@@nathandonkin6705 It is my gate. And this is just my story of how I fixed it. No change to the design or functionality of the gate. This is just my story.
Good video
New video here on changing the motor for when it is worn out: th-cam.com/video/OP5lWL8QD2Q/w-d-xo.html
Great video
Thanks
Sub motors......blah
Better if they drain of water properly. I fix that in another video with improved drainage, easily.
Rather poor design... Motor underground...
Yep, the water in the box aspect is not great.
Seriously...a whole video and you didn't actually explain what the fault symptom is !! Doesn't move at all... moves a bit.... opens partway... etc... How are we supposed to use this video if we can't complete it to our own fault... (unless I missed it :-) ) . " IF you've got a similar problem..." he says.... I've no idea, he didn't say what his problem was !
Seriously? Within 16 seconds I say “neither of the two motors is working”. The video description says “electric gate has stopped working”. Are you concentrating?