One of the best, most informative videos on here. I'm a 25 year master tech, but I've managed to avoid working on a differential... somebody else was always 'the guy.' Now my own started screaming after it ran out of oil... good old NY rust.. This has completely demystified it. Thanks.
This fine cold morning. A older gentleman dropped off his 3/4 ton Chevy 2500hd. Seems like he lost the pinion seal and ran dry and cooked the outer pinion bearing. So, tomorrow I'm pulling the pumpkin. I'm glad I found your channel. I'm a 70 year old man, I'm confident I can muster enough muscle to pop the pumpkin out. I have all of the tools needed. Fact, about 2 weeks ago I rebuilt my 02 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 rear differential. Since I was replacing bearings. The task was pretty straightforward. Truck now runs very quiet. For some reason, it ate the driver's side carrier bearings. I had to remove everything and clean out the housing upteen times. In a few months I'm going to drain the rear differential again and change the fluid. Thanks again sir for the most important and informative video. God bless
@@2nickles647 I’m glad it helped! Sounds like it won’t be a problem for you. Just be cautious of that gov lock carrier. Could be another reason that rear burned up on that 2500. They never seem to last.
Good job.I just dragged a sweet 1983 chevy c20 tow beast home.Its got a full float 14 bolt,1 legger.Cant wait to regear,and add a locker.Really nice tech.
Don’t forget to tell the people about the thrust washers that have to be removed in the carrier if they want to run the grizzly locker!!! The guy who did my gears didn’t remove them and it caused EXTREME binding on the locker. It was the most brutal bangs every time I would turn along with the tire chirp. Didn’t ratchet at all like it’s supposed to. Eventually the springs on the locker bound inside themselves, if that makes sense, and now the locker is just there and doesn’t function at all. Hence the reason I’m watching this video lol great video btw, this video along with JK Gear and Gadgets video on the 14b regear is freaking incredible. Keep us TH-cam mechanics educated!
You know….that was a point that I mean to make In this video. Somehow it didn’t make it in the editing. I’ll be making a simple comment and pinning it to be sure people realize this. I’ll also add it to the description. Thanks for the support! I’ll be making the Dana 60 video in new next couple weeks. Next week I’ll have a cool truss video…but there will be TWO trusses goi g on this axle.
Great video I haven't even helped do a differential In 25yrs. Only a few thoughts ( have worked on other heavy equipment and Industrial machines ) don't use the old bearing to press the race if there's any damage to that bearing you have now destroyed the new race,the better idea is to slightly grind the outside of the old race to decrease the diameter ( used the old one without doing that just inverted it and used a flat plate). Also if someone doesn't have bearing and seal drivers sockets are a great option especially if you also own 3/4 " drive stuff,pipe and a flat plate sitting on top works well also. All in all great video have had to go back and reference it a few times because well life 😂😂have been attempting to finish this in the truck for over a week ( found out needed other parts,Father's truck he ordered them). Just finishing up with pinion preload and already have carrier done but not installed, came back to watch a section on the preload torque again ( didn't write it down) figured good time for a break and chance to thank you for the video.
I just watched this and the Dana 60 regear video. Just hit the "Complete Purchase" button for kits for both. Thanks for some great info. I'm actually gonna give it a shot. I have all the tools except for a press but I have access to one.
@WarPaintOffroad I'm looking forward to it. Parts will be here in early November. In the meantime, I ordered a set of Dana 50 carrier shims that you mentioned in a reply to a comment.
Good tip on using the oven to heat up the ring gear... a missed good tip would be to do the opposite for races. Throwing them inside the freezer for an hour prior to install helps them go in super smooth. This works for pinion races, as well as hub bearing races.
I don't have an off road vehicle. I don't plan on building one. The complexity of rebuilding these always fascinates me though and for some reason I find myself down and ADD rabbit hole of investigating something I probably won't ever do. Great video, even I could understand it.
Thanks for the support! Appreciate that. It’s definitely a pretty cool engineering feat. Imagine being the first guy to ever think it up and put it into practice. Smart.
Thanks for the support! Dedicated because I’m passionate about it and want the channel to help people. Don’t want to just be another channel that leaves people hanging.
Which bearing removal tool did you use specifically? Brand/model #. It looks like some won’t do the 14 bolt that Amazon sells. Thanks for the very informative videos. You make them very easy to understand. You’re a great teacher.
Bearings can be heated the same as the ring gear. Also...the carrier or whatever bearings are being seated on can be placed in a deep freeze for about 45 minutes before fitting anything that needs a press fit.
Thanks for putting so much info out on the internet for free this is awesome. I just bought a complete 14bff housing that came with 3.73 gears and a g80 to replace my 14bff's original 4.10/open carrier. Can I just take that entire 3.73/g80 carrier assembly from the new axle and swap it into my current 4.10/open carrier's housing? I know I'll probably need to adjust the adjusting rings to get it to fit with the correct backlash/pattern but is there anything inside the 3.73/g80 carrier that needs to be adjusted before putting it into my original housing?
Getting ready to regear the 14 bolt in my ‘83 Chevy. I’m pretty unfamiliar with this whole process and this video seems to contain a lot of good information. Would all of this be applicable to an early 80’s 14 bolt? Also, do you know of any good 14 bolt service manuals or other literature?
I’m currently setting up my 14 bolt gears and my install kit didn’t come with shims to put under the inner bearing. Where did you get the shim that you used? I tried setting it up without a shim under the bearing and I’m coming up shallow with a .005 housing shim and slightly deep without any shims behind the pinion support.
The packs don’t come with them. But you can get one by just using Amazon and ordering a Dana 50 carrier shim pack. They fit well. Or…you can skip that step and just externally shim. The inner shim is just a precaution. But it’s not 100% necessary. Your backlash will also adjust your pattern slightly. So get it close and adjust that. You might be surprised.
Great question. So it’s not just the bolt pattern but also the width. Some people redrill the front superduty hub to match the rear. But I don’t like that idea because then it makes it tougher to get a replacement hub bearing….for obvious reasons. But what. OST do is put a 1.5 or 2 inch adapter/spacer on the rear. That changes it from the 8x6.5 to an 8x170 matching the front…and it also makes the rear axle a little wider to better match the front.
@@WarPaintOffroad south Louisiana. but I was willing to travel to get it done right. I hear so many horror stories on youtube of people having ring gear bolts back out and gears burn up from some shops. Exodus in New Braunfels Texas sounds like a good shop, they say they can do it in one day. I like that because this is my only driver much less being a daily driver. but they do the next best gear choice of Spicer or Revolution gears only.
I have a Superduty Dana 60. Im tearing down to send to powder coat. Do i need to remove the bearing races if im putting back together? Im referring to the pinon races.
DO NOT FORGET TO REMOVE ALL THRUST WASHERS FROM THE CARRIER BEFORE INSTALLING THE GRIZZLY. IT SHOULD BE COMPLETELY EMPTY!
I have a question.
Early 14 bolt FF and later 14 bolt FF are same WMS width?
@@Alla0038 not always. Depends on the 14 bolt.
One of the best, most informative videos on here. I'm a 25 year master tech, but I've managed to avoid working on a differential... somebody else was always 'the guy.' Now my own started screaming after it ran out of oil... good old NY rust.. This has completely demystified it. Thanks.
This fine cold morning. A older gentleman dropped off his 3/4 ton Chevy 2500hd.
Seems like he lost the pinion seal and ran dry and cooked the outer pinion bearing.
So, tomorrow I'm pulling the pumpkin.
I'm glad I found your channel.
I'm a 70 year old man, I'm confident I can muster enough muscle to pop the pumpkin out.
I have all of the tools needed.
Fact, about 2 weeks ago I rebuilt my 02 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 rear differential.
Since I was replacing bearings. The task was pretty straightforward.
Truck now runs very quiet.
For some reason, it ate the driver's side carrier bearings. I had to remove everything and clean out the housing upteen times.
In a few months I'm going to drain the rear differential again and change the fluid.
Thanks again sir for the most important and informative video. God bless
@@2nickles647 I’m glad it helped! Sounds like it won’t be a problem for you. Just be cautious of that gov lock carrier. Could be another reason that rear burned up on that 2500. They never seem to last.
Good job.I just dragged a sweet 1983 chevy c20 tow beast home.Its got a full float 14 bolt,1 legger.Cant wait to regear,and add a locker.Really nice tech.
Awesome! I’m glad to hear it! Have fun with the rig! Those are super cool.
Don’t forget to tell the people about the thrust washers that have to be removed in the carrier if they want to run the grizzly locker!!! The guy who did my gears didn’t remove them and it caused EXTREME binding on the locker. It was the most brutal bangs every time I would turn along with the tire chirp. Didn’t ratchet at all like it’s supposed to. Eventually the springs on the locker bound inside themselves, if that makes sense, and now the locker is just there and doesn’t function at all. Hence the reason I’m watching this video lol great video btw, this video along with JK Gear and Gadgets video on the 14b regear is freaking incredible. Keep us TH-cam mechanics educated!
You know….that was a point that I mean to make In this video. Somehow it didn’t make it in the editing. I’ll be making a simple comment and pinning it to be sure people realize this. I’ll also add it to the description. Thanks for the support! I’ll be making the Dana 60 video in new next couple weeks. Next week I’ll have a cool truss video…but there will be TWO trusses goi g on this axle.
Great video I haven't even helped do a differential
In 25yrs. Only a few thoughts ( have worked on other heavy equipment and Industrial machines ) don't use the old bearing to press the race if there's any damage to that bearing you have now destroyed the new race,the better idea is to slightly grind the outside of the old race to decrease the diameter ( used the old one without doing that just inverted it and used a flat plate). Also if someone doesn't have bearing and seal drivers sockets are a great option especially if you also own 3/4 " drive stuff,pipe and a flat plate sitting on top works well also. All in all great video have had to go back and reference it a few times because well life 😂😂have been attempting to finish this in the truck for over a week ( found out needed other parts,Father's truck he ordered them). Just finishing up with pinion preload and already have carrier done but not installed, came back to watch a section on the preload torque again ( didn't write it down) figured good time for a break and chance to thank you for the video.
I just watched this and the Dana 60 regear video.
Just hit the "Complete Purchase" button for kits for both.
Thanks for some great info.
I'm actually gonna give it a shot.
I have all the tools except for a press but I have access to one.
You’ll be fine! Thanks for the support! Just take your time!
@WarPaintOffroad I'm looking forward to it. Parts will be here in early November. In the meantime, I ordered a set of Dana 50 carrier shims that you mentioned in a reply to a comment.
Good tip on using the oven to heat up the ring gear... a missed good tip would be to do the opposite for races. Throwing them inside the freezer for an hour prior to install helps them go in super smooth. This works for pinion races, as well as hub bearing races.
Yea. I mention that when I get to the pinion bearing.
I don't have an off road vehicle. I don't plan on building one. The complexity of rebuilding these always fascinates me though and for some reason I find myself down and ADD rabbit hole of investigating something I probably won't ever do. Great video, even I could understand it.
Thanks for the support! Appreciate that. It’s definitely a pretty cool engineering feat. Imagine being the first guy to ever think it up and put it into practice. Smart.
This video is so well put together. Seems like you’re very dedicated to these videos, sick
Thanks for the support! Dedicated because I’m passionate about it and want the channel to help people. Don’t want to just be another channel that leaves people hanging.
Excellent video sir! I have a 94 I want to reset, and probably replace the 4:11 ring and pinion. I will be glued to this vid!!!
How did you know i needed another video to do this job.
😂
I just had to make one that went once all the way through it. Making one right now for the Dana 60…once long video…start to finish.
Which bearing removal tool did you use specifically? Brand/model #. It looks like some won’t do the 14 bolt that Amazon sells. Thanks for the very informative videos. You make them very easy to understand. You’re a great teacher.
Bearings can be heated the same as the ring gear. Also...the carrier or whatever bearings are being seated on can be placed in a deep freeze for about 45 minutes before fitting anything that needs a press fit.
Good video. Thanks
Thanks for putting so much info out on the internet for free this is awesome. I just bought a complete 14bff housing that came with 3.73 gears and a g80 to replace my 14bff's original 4.10/open carrier. Can I just take that entire 3.73/g80 carrier assembly from the new axle and swap it into my current 4.10/open carrier's housing? I know I'll probably need to adjust the adjusting rings to get it to fit with the correct backlash/pattern but is there anything inside the 3.73/g80 carrier that needs to be adjusted before putting it into my original housing?
Getting ready to regear the 14 bolt in my ‘83 Chevy. I’m pretty unfamiliar with this whole process and this video seems to contain a lot of good information. Would all of this be applicable to an early 80’s 14 bolt? Also, do you know of any good 14 bolt service manuals or other literature?
This all looks like good Information.
I’m currently setting up my 14 bolt gears and my install kit didn’t come with shims to put under the inner bearing. Where did you get the shim that you used? I tried setting it up without a shim under the bearing and I’m coming up shallow with a .005 housing shim and slightly deep without any shims behind the pinion support.
The packs don’t come with them. But you can get one by just using Amazon and ordering a Dana 50 carrier shim pack. They fit well. Or…you can skip that step and just externally shim. The inner shim is just a precaution. But it’s not 100% necessary. Your backlash will also adjust your pattern slightly. So get it close and adjust that. You might be surprised.
@@WarPaintOffroad awesome. thank you. I’ve been looking everywhere trying to find a shim that will fit properly.
What did you do to match up the wheel lug pattern for the 14 and the 60?
Great question. So it’s not just the bolt pattern but also the width. Some people redrill the front superduty hub to match the rear. But I don’t like that idea because then it makes it tougher to get a replacement hub bearing….for obvious reasons.
But what. OST do is put a 1.5 or 2 inch adapter/spacer on the rear. That changes it from the 8x6.5 to an 8x170 matching the front…and it also makes the rear axle a little wider to better match the front.
Thanks! In the process of building these axles and trying to plan accordingly and kinda on a budget of course.
are there any trustworthy shops here in the south that install Yukon gears?
There are plenty! Where in the south are you specifically?
@@WarPaintOffroad south Louisiana. but I was willing to travel to get it done right. I hear so many horror stories on youtube of people having ring gear bolts back out and gears burn up from some shops. Exodus in New Braunfels Texas sounds like a good shop, they say they can do it in one day. I like that because this is my only driver much less being a daily driver. but they do the next best gear choice of Spicer or Revolution gears only.
I have a Superduty Dana 60. Im tearing down to send to powder coat. Do i need to remove the bearing races if im putting back together? Im referring to the pinon races.
I would remove the bearing races/cups.
Since they are easy to remove and reinstall.
11:39 was Sus bro