I have always removed carb studs by running 2 nuts down on them, squeezing them against each other and loosening the whole stud by backing out the bottom nut. This has never failed for me.
They are hard to find, but PCV spacers do exist. That’s what I went with. I would recommend using 2 nuts jammed tight on each other and then loosening the bottom one to remove the studs. I avoid vice grips like the plague. Thanks for the video. I enjoy your content. REALLY looking forward to more Galaxie content.
Great idea for a wood fiber spacer. To be honest I didn't even know they made this. Keep us updated on how this worked out over time and the durability of the wood fiber. I may be ordering one of these for my Eelbrock 1406 with this issue!! Thanks for the great tips.
Great video! You guys are awesome! I would like to see you guys work on some Mopars every now and then. I know you love Fords but........give mopar some love:)
@@AutoRestoMod good video....but....I have a complaint... you jinxed yourself on that spacer..... it might haved worked but... IT HEARD YOU but anyway still good video love and Starliners
That was a great video Jeff. I like carbs on old cars, keep it original but that heat thing with the carb is a real for anyone plus those old vacuum hose plug offs too. Thank you!
If you use Gumout spray to check for vacuum leaks you won't have to clean if off the engine, Engine RPM will drop a lot if you spray Gumout on a vacuum leak. Might even do some cleaning itself, heh heh. Gumout doesn't burn anywhere near as well as gasoline. Remember those old carburetor cleaning kits from the 70's where you hang a bottle of gumout upside-down above the caruretor and run your engine on it? You had to really open the throttle up to keep the engine running on Gumout. Ahhhh...those were the days. : )
While a phenolic spacer helped, it wasn't enough to stop the heat-soak with ethanol gas in my Maverick. Blocking the exhaust heat crossovers did the trick.
I would love to see a video about different Auto Trans modulator/governors applications related to different engine sizes and C4/C6 trans and if 2WD/4WD impacts the proper modulator. Very interested in 302 C4 AT 2WD. LOL
You need more air filter height for a 390. Low filters make "all" the incoming air having to turn sharply into the carb, creating turbulence affecting signal. Tall filters allow more gradual turn. Best filter is on a velocity stack; may have room on the truck. Might make for an interesting seat-of-the-pants driving comparo.
Very cool to see the spacer did the trick! But now the important question - where did you shoot the last part of the video? I don’t recall seeing that part of your garage before 😉 (Duh - I stopped the video to add my comments just before you told us - LOL. Congrats!!!)
I've had many Ford engines over the past 45 years with carbs. When you get the carbs dialed in, they work great. I have milk crates full of carbs, so I don't have to spend over $1k for FI.
Nice! I removed the factory hot water carb heater spacer and put in a 1-inch phenolic resin spacer (and a new Edelbrock AVS2 lol). I never have issues with hot starts anymore. Cranks up so much easier, hot or cold. A lot of that has to do with the new carb, but I'm convinced the spacer has helped tremendously. I do have one question for you - my spacer is a 4 hole, going down into a dual plane Edelbrock intake. I didn't cut a notch in the intake so air could vent from one side to another. Do you think I should? Would it make a difference on a fairly stock 360 FE?
What exhaust are you running? Is it “turbo” mufflers or the large “round” factory muffler? If so where did you get them from? I love the quite, stock sound
@@AutoRestoMod i dont understand why everybody does it with them junk open element aircleaners. The fan is blowing hot air from radiator right in the carb
Hi Jeff! Did you think of using a return fuel regulator line back to the tank? They help with different issues for around $150 includes lines fittings etc.
I have the spacer on my 390 that has the heater hose running through it. It looked like you had the same carb spacer. I was just wondering how you take care of that heater hose that ran through the spacer? I have a 69 Mustang and don't want to pull the dash apart to replace that hose.
If you get rid of the spacer that runs hot coolant through and you want to remove that spacer, you can simply bypass it. Just use a length of heater hose long enough to connect the two points.
![โรงเรียนตอนตี 2 โคตรหลอน..!! [โรงเรียนไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2MAEMwqVYh8/mqdefault.jpg)
I have always removed carb studs by running 2 nuts down on them, squeezing them against each other and loosening the whole stud by backing out the bottom nut. This has never failed for me.
That works too. I've done both ways.
Thanks for the tip Michael.
Was about to write the sane. No special tool required.
My company makes that Woodfiber Laminate spacer in Seattle. The raw material is made in Tacoma, WA. USA ftw
Cool!
FI's will never have the great and exciting sound that a 4bbl carb has when the 4 kicks in!! There's just no way!! IMHO JS
It is quite distinctive.
One way to remove the stuck studs is to thread on two nuts and tighten them to each other, then loosen the lowest one.
They are hard to find, but PCV spacers do exist. That’s what I went with. I would recommend using 2 nuts jammed tight on each other and then loosening the bottom one to remove the studs. I avoid vice grips like the plague. Thanks for the video. I enjoy your content. REALLY looking forward to more Galaxie content.
That can work too. We just use the locking plyers because we've been frustreated by the nut method at times.
Most excellent. It's always great to see something that works right.
It blew away with how it smoothed out off idle acceleration.
Great idea for a wood fiber spacer. To be honest I didn't even know they made this. Keep us updated on how this worked out over time and the durability of the wood fiber. I may be ordering one of these for my Eelbrock 1406 with this issue!! Thanks for the great tips.
Will do.
Congrats on the new shop! Looking forward to lots of videos being filmed there.
Us too!
Great video! You guys are awesome! I would like to see you guys work on some Mopars every now and then. I know you love Fords but........give mopar some love:)
I Love Mopars too...I just wish that they fit my budget better....
Even with the exhaust leak, she still sounds good....
Still would rather hear the idle than that chuff...
@@AutoRestoMod good video....but....I have a complaint...
you jinxed yourself on that spacer.....
it might haved worked but...
IT HEARD YOU
but anyway still good video
love and Starliners
Couldn't you of used the double nut method to screw off the studs?
I typed my comment before I saw yours. I have used that to pull studs out of rusty junk yard intakes.
Yes.
Screw off your studs.
That was a great video Jeff. I like carbs on old cars, keep it original but that heat thing with the carb is a real for anyone plus those old vacuum hose plug offs too. Thank you!
Thanks 👍
If you use Gumout spray to check for vacuum leaks you won't have to clean if off the engine, Engine RPM will drop a lot if you spray Gumout on a vacuum leak. Might even do some cleaning itself, heh heh. Gumout doesn't burn anywhere near as well as gasoline.
Remember those old carburetor cleaning kits from the 70's where you hang a bottle of gumout upside-down above the caruretor and run your engine on it? You had to really open the throttle up to keep the engine running on Gumout. Ahhhh...those were the days. : )
Excellent video. I also liked the comments. Keep those videos coming.
We're gonna!
While a phenolic spacer helped, it wasn't enough to stop the heat-soak with ethanol gas in my Maverick.
Blocking the exhaust heat crossovers did the trick.
Yep, that is another solution for sure.
A lot of work but I think that's a necessary step
I would love to see a video about different Auto Trans modulator/governors applications related to different engine sizes and C4/C6 trans and if 2WD/4WD impacts the proper modulator. Very interested in 302 C4 AT 2WD. LOL
the 4100 is an excellent carb!
Indeed!
You need more air filter height for a 390. Low filters make "all" the incoming air having to turn sharply into the carb, creating turbulence affecting signal. Tall filters allow more gradual turn. Best filter is on a velocity stack; may have room on the truck. Might make for an interesting seat-of-the-pants driving comparo.
I might add a larger filter, the issue is the center bolt on the carb...
Sometimes change is good
Especially at the toll booth...
Yep did that to my converted 390 I put a 1 inch spacer on mine.
Did it help?
Good info, thanks for the upload :- )
You are welcome.
Solid video great job guys
Thanks so much!
Like the video l notes the mach 1 my dad has a cobra jet
Thanks!
Give the GU A facelift, respray, fit front locker, fit some nice alloy beadlock wheels, but definitely keep it, just give it a birthday facelift.
Not a bad idea
Very cool to see the spacer did the trick! But now the important question - where did you shoot the last part of the video? I don’t recall seeing that part of your garage before 😉
(Duh - I stopped the video to add my comments just before you told us - LOL. Congrats!!!)
New joint!
This is exactly what i need to do to mine. It seems like you didn’t have to adjust any of the linkages?
Nope. A little tweak to the idle was all.
You need a little mayo between all those layers of your sandwich.
Hahahaha with a nice dill pickle.
@@AutoRestoMod and some kettle cooked potato chips.
You should really try the summit brand EFI. It’s great. Way worth the money.
I've had many Ford engines over the past 45 years with carbs. When you get the carbs dialed in, they work great. I have milk crates full of carbs, so I don't have to spend over $1k for FI.
We like to have at least two non-EFI cars in the fleet, keeps us humble. We are looking to doing a Holley system.
Anyone know who makes the summit branded efi?
@@slick-px4pq fi-tech.
@@grosseileracingteam Amen brother. good point.
You got Popeye's elbow!
I had that few months ago, it went away by itself.
Mine is in for the long haul it looks like. I want to have them drained but Doc says that the fluid will just come back.
@@AutoRestoMod yeah that sucks
Could it be the winter arrived
@@briansignorelli7090 don't know. It was crazy 😅
Your right elbow has some fluid collecting in it. You should get it checked.
Have done. I have bursitis in both elbows. It sucks.
go get breakfast 😜😂👍
Mmmmmmbreakkkkkfassst.
Always seem to be a Ford I had this issue on , never on a gm or dodge .
I've seen it be an equal opportunity pain honestly.
Nice! I removed the factory hot water carb heater spacer and put in a 1-inch phenolic resin spacer (and a new Edelbrock AVS2 lol). I never have issues with hot starts anymore. Cranks up so much easier, hot or cold. A lot of that has to do with the new carb, but I'm convinced the spacer has helped tremendously. I do have one question for you - my spacer is a 4 hole, going down into a dual plane Edelbrock intake. I didn't cut a notch in the intake so air could vent from one side to another. Do you think I should? Would it make a difference on a fairly stock 360 FE?
No need the plenum will do all that for you.
What exhaust are you running? Is it “turbo” mufflers or the large “round” factory muffler? If so where did you get them from? I love the quite, stock sound
Turbos from Summit.
What about a return line to the tank, to help with percolation?
The return line eliminated vapor lock while driving for me but it does not eliminate heat soak which happens after you shut off a warm engine.
I have a 68 cougar 302 with original 2 barrel carb..finding a spacer isnt easy.
Nope. But they are out there.
Make your own out of a piece of 1-inch maple works great
3 Days to clear the engine bay? Did you put every tool you own out there ? LOL!!
Three days to test. And isn't that SOP? One simple job requires half the tool box?
Do you like force feeding super heated air to your engine?
Pretty sure that nobody does
@@AutoRestoMod i dont understand why everybody does it with them junk open element aircleaners. The fan is blowing hot air from radiator right in the carb
i know it may be factory....but....it will help...
Let's hope so.
Hi Jeff! Did you think of using a return fuel regulator line back to the tank? They help with different issues for around $150 includes lines fittings etc.
Trying to do cheap first.
@@AutoRestoMod Nothing wrong with trying cheap fixes first Jeff. Makes good sense.
I thought putting a spacer improves velocity somewhat from what i heard.
Good job by the way.
It seems to have done just that.
Thanks!
@@AutoRestoMod Outstanding!!
Bro my carburetor bowl get hot after warm up how to solve
Put a shield between the carb and the intake.
Why not just use a insulator gasket?
That is an option
I have the spacer on my 390 that has the heater hose running through it. It looked like you had the same carb spacer. I was just wondering how you take care of that heater hose that ran through the spacer? I have a 69 Mustang and don't want to pull the dash apart to replace that hose.
If you get rid of the spacer that runs hot coolant through and you want to remove that spacer, you can simply bypass it. Just use a length of heater hose long enough to connect the two points.
@@Jon-Bar My thought is just to use a short piece of copper pipe for a spacer/insert.
No, the truck just has the small PCV. You can remove the stock one and do what we did here.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks for your response.
👍🏼🤠👍🏼
😁🖖😁
need a fuel press regular ....
We have done one, the Carter is spot on for fuel pressure.
How many barrels dose the carb have?
four
@@AutoRestoMod is that a factory one?. Mine is a 1
Dam ethanol
Yep.
I read the comments, but didn't watch the video.
Well, that is one way to stay under informed!
@@AutoRestoMod I turned away from that stupid thumbnail. :-)