You are a freaking genius thank you for that detailed build. I've watched a lot of videos and this one made so much sense in such a simple way thank you again! I feel smarter just watching your videos.
Thank you for sharing, especially for your ingenious method of hole boring!!! I really appreciate your showing that because it's so low-cost and so creative; I have gotten in the rut of thinking I "must have special equipment" and your video brings me back to reality. Because you asked (and ONLY because you asked) , a couple of thoughts from a renewable energy engineer: 1. If (WHEN) I do this I'll put antifreeze in the lines; yes it will be expensive, and for 99% of the time unnecessary, but it will be an additional factor of safety. I'll also dig my horizontal lines lower (my frost depth in a good winter is four feet). 2. I hope the turnabout fittings you have at the bottom of your wells are rated for really high pressures; otherwise they might get damaged over time. I would probably improve on your method by wrapping the ends in something to protect against gravel intrusion. 3. It looks to me like you sunk way more than enough wells. I would be curious to know the results of a load test (if you are cooling in the summer, how much heat can the ground absorb before return water starts to get warmer, and vice versa for winter?) 4. Also out of curiosity, when I do this I'll try to find budget to sink a thermocouple down some of the wells to measure resource temperature.
Larry I think everybody here wants to hear how it has worked in your greenhouse? Where are you and with heat gain and loss through the greenhouse walls has your system done the job you wanted? Hope you can do a followup video soon.
DISCLAIMER, I do not advocate or recommend any of these products or procedures are suitable or should be used in any way for any purpose. You proceed at your own risk and you are responsible for your own actions and the results you get by using any products or procedures noted here in. ====================== Home Depot 3/4 in. Blue Twister Polypropylene www.homedepot.com/s/3%252F4%2520in.%2520Blue%2520Twister%2520Polypropylene?NCNI-5 ======================= Menards, Search Bar, “poly pipe” press enter, Select, ¾ in poly pipe, (irrigation Tubing) press enter, make your selections. Air Separator Manifold, www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/watts-reg-1-1-4-fip-cast-iron-air-separator/0858536/p-1444446195278-c-8523.htm?tid=-1863207083524858620&ipos=2 automatic air vent valve, www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/watts-reg-1-8-automatic-air-vent-valve/0590715/p-1444446175469-c-8523.htm water expansion tank, www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/watts-reg-2-1-gallons-non-potable-water-expansion-tank/etx-15/p-105478063016-c-8523.htm 3 speed circulator pump, www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/hydro-smart-trade-1-25-hp-3-speed-circulator-pump/hs00r-3spdcsti/p-1450446643169-c-8523.htm?tid=-6119193669850601549&ipos=11 Circulation Pump Kit, www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/webstone-reg-sweat-lead-free-isolator-circulation-pump-kit/h-51414wkit/p-1512026997655-c-8523.htm?tid=-8480272877282241141&ipos=12 Antifreeze, Propylene Glycol. Do your own research about what you are using and be sure to understand what this product is and how to use it safely. consult OSHA.GOV polypropylene glycol MSDS
I love the way you drilled the holes. When piping I would have done a common flow and return header with individual branches for each drop, easier to vent. Maybe filled with glycol too. Great vid
Great idea. Can you do a short video using an infrared thermometer to show the incoming and out going temp of the water, during a hot day, and a cold day. and give the outside temp and temp inside the room. And maybe put a metal object in front of the fan to get a good idea of how cold (or hot) the temp of the air coming off of the fan is. also can you tell us how much water per minute is circulating, and how much kilowatt hours are being used.
I think you did great. I have been trying to build a similar system with geothermal components involved . I came across your video and I am grateful for you sharing it. keep building fam, much love
colder climates will require a deeper trench for your horizontal run. example, Minneapolis permafrost depth is 3.5', so plumbing water pipes are set at around 6' deep or lower. meaning, the ground is ice for around 3.5', and will cause problems with water pipes used for geothermal transference. nice diy.
This system is charged with 70% propylene glycol, a heat transfer fluid with anti corrosion properties. Freeze protection to 30 below. (Do not use ethylene glycol. That is car motor antifreeze. It can contaminate the aquifer.) Watch, "geothermal diy #2
Now that you have a year under your belt with this system, we would love to hear how it's working for you both summer and winter. We would all love to see a follow up video if that's possible. Thank you, John
John Wyman I was wondering the same questions. How does it work in the summer as for cooling. Wondering if it could be used in the desert to cool off a house ?
LARRY first i would like to say thankyou for providing and insightful video of such a beautiful project with brilliant ideas. A real big thankyou!!!!!!❤❤❤
Good video, looked like a fun project. Reminded me of a rig my grandfather had in his home. Probably 40 years back I was in the basement of my grandparents house with my uncle probably in his 50’s and he pointed to a copper pipe tee with two 1/2” pipes attached thru reducers to it and a 1-1/2” pipe coming out the third going into the ground. Questioned me do you know what that is, follow the pipes and try to figure it out? The T was oriented so the angle was off to the side, went into a reducer then a elbow and went up parallel to the other 1/2” pipe coming out the top thru a reducer into the house. The third 1-1/2” pipe went into the ground. I traced the pipes out, the side pipe was connected to the water main and the second went to the cold water tap in the bathroom. I was still clueless. He said you ever notice the water in the bathroom is always colder than the other faucets in the house. He said back when he was young and they moved into the city from the country his dad was upset whenever he got up in the middle of the night and wanted a drink of water be cause the city water was so warm compared to the well water he would have back at the farm before they moved. The third thicker pipe was a pipe inside a pipe and went 60’ into the ground to cool the city water. How many years back was it when they put that in, no clue, but the day I discovered the term geothermal for cooling I knew exactly what they were talking about, no convincing required.
Larry, you could lay some solid insulation over your wells and links to not lose a few degrees of ground temperature in the circuit. And even wrapping those pipes with insulation before covering them with foam board or other hard insulation material. I built a geothermal house did the complete install of pipe in a ground-loop system, built my own riser board to mount the pump, valves, to a Waterfurnace heat-pump. I heated and cooled the 3500 sq ft for $150-175 per month. It was a super insulated house with foot thick walls and 1 foot of attic blown insulation.
I agree insulate the upper tubes because heat will be lost to the cold ground in winter so less heat will make it back. In summer the ground will be heated by the sun which will reduce cooling performance. To my mind 60ft2 of tube surface area isnt a lot for heat exchange.
Amazing! I am moving to NC and want to build a greenhouse thanks for answering the A/C portion in the green house! Im going to add solar and batteries with an A/C inverter to run the pump and fan! Thank you very much!
Hello Larry thank you for sharing the video. I am building a greenhouse for my hydroponic garden. Its very very hot here in Kuwait, and I want to use 2 cooling systems: Geothermal and water cooled air-conditioner. I buried my water hose 4 meters below surface. Because the sand is very dry in the summer. I laid plastic sheet under pipes to help keep moisture. In addition to that, I connected a drain pipe to about 3 meters down when I drain my water/solution tank so that I keep some moisture around the underground pipes to help in heat exchange. I am still curious about the delta T, temperature difference. I will add a water thermometer for water in and out of the system.
I made a system for my doghouse with a fan, pvc pipe(20 ft),it worked fucking great! I was 12 yrs old! 100 degrees outside, 80 degrees inside. Dog loved it! Solar and windmills all shit!! This science of using the earths stable yr round temp is awesome!!
hi larry, its great, i have few question if you could answer, first your design is way simpler which is great for people like us, i am interested in cooling only, (not heating), now 1. how deep you put tubes inside ground 2. what was your ambient temperature ? 3. what is your room temperature 4. what is outlet temperature of your water coming circulated via ground pipes ? and what was your room temperature becomes after system was running, appreciate your support here
What a great idea. The title of the video says #1, is there supposed to be a second video? I see you have a lot of private videos in your play list? Since this video is 2 years old, could you make an update video? Would you do anything different?
Watched an 'off grid program' of a guy in Alaska ('Homestead Help' or something like that) and this guy had set up a greenhouse 'in Alaska' a 20' high glass, double insulated blah blah' and was growing Avocado trees inside'. He had it attached to a GeoThermal circuit and said 'my heating costs for this green house come from the heating I have inside' (the house) ' and geothermal." "Can't allow any frost in here or its 'all dead' (gesturing his trees and edible plants)." I was blown away. A greenhouse in Alaska usable ALL WINTER', even during 'dark days'. Wonder if they do that sort of thing in Russia?
Larry, 1. you should have filled the boreholes up with BENTONITE CLAY, to get better thermal contact. 2. did you put antifreeze in the system, this greatly improves the thermal transfer of heat.
great job man! if i did this at my place i would need a rock drill attached to one of those fence post augur machines 😅 considering how expensive commercial setups cost, youve saved a mint
Putting it in the greenhouse is a great use for GEO. I put a sand floor in my greenhouse and electric ground wire system fresh tomatoes in December but the cost of electric heat made it impactable. I know there is water on my place there use to be a well covered now with a BBQ a rock ledge may be my only problem if the spring is running under or voer the ledge.
Gotta say, the way you dug your holes is really smart! Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. Really cool. Like you mentioned, you could add a ground source heat pump to this loop and depending on your insulation and the climate you live in, you could have a heated garage, or heat a hot water tank.. or all of it as well as cooling for the greenhouse! The bladder tank is a nice touch, it will keep your pressure consistent, but as an added benefit you run a lot less risk rupturing your lines with a temperature change of your fluid.
Larry great design . Only thing i would have added is to use a hydrostat to control fan and or pump so they are not running when not needed. Otherwise great job and great idea.
Some thoughts - First congratulations this seems very cool for a DIY project. These are not meant to be critical just observations: You may want to use it to "Air condition" the garage during the summer. Not sure what this will cost to run the system. But it will do positive things assuming you want to cool the garage. The other thing running it during the summer will do. It will be warming the ground up so that you can pull more heat back out in the winter. One problem all closed loop geothermal systems suffer from is that as the season continues the ground gets hotter or colder. So "pre-heating" in the summer will help with the winter. If the system is large enough this is more of a theoretical concern than one that is practical. But the ground will cool down the longer you run the system in the winter time. The other observation I have is piping layout. You could do it with a lot fewer elbows. Elbows cause pressure drop and reduce flow or require more power from the pump to produce the same flow, and more joints means more leak points. If the flow is slow enough the pressure drop is not much of an issue. But I saw a lot of opportunities to make the piping more direct and cut out quite a few elbows. IDK if the pump needed to be horizontal, but you could have put it in the down leg instead of crossing back to the other side, or even just kept it in the same horizontal run as the tank and air bleeder.
Have to say it is well thought out.... and you have left the system open to adding future mods so you are covered. The only thing I can think of is a variable-speed motor. It would cost out front but pay off in the long run Also depends on the future mods.. But for a DYI you did great...
Now if you have central air in your house. You could install a evap coil and run this water throw it. Then use a relay and the exsting thermostat in your home to control temp by controlling the pump and fan. Also there's already an existing way to collect condensation in a air handler or evaporator case. Plus the added benefit of filtering the air.
@@ВладимирПутин-е7м basically like a fridge; compressor and refrigerant of some type; heat exchange to ground loop. What he doesn't mention is the cost just went from 2-3k to 10-20k. For an outdoor greenhouse; this simple system is perfect.
This looks pretty awesome. I have been thinking about doing this exact same thing. i just want to keep my garage from freezing and maybe cool it in the summer. i too would like to see what the temps are at the radiator. great job on the build
That's great for cooling but a black3/4 line in a spiral out in the sun .insulated. Would be the hot line just would have to put a few ball valves to switch from heating to cooling. Thanks for the idea
I dont know why this wouldnt work on a large scale with an air return and a decent sized cfm fan. In fact a solar panel on the circulation pump. And some simple duct work for a return that pushes the air over the coil and boom. You need only a drain for the condensation and I feel like you can heat and cool as big a space as you want
I'm planning on putting up a 20x50 workshop in Tucson and using this to heat / cool the whole thing. Don't see any reason why it won't work perfectly fine.
Love it! I'm thinking of trying a similar thing, open loop style. Water from my well already runs continuously to the barn all winter. I figure there that's a huge untapped heat source, but haven't run the numbers yet. I have a number allergy.
Hey that is genius by the way. I think I got some old radiators and some stuff and I might have to rig something like that up when I get my greenhouses going here in a few months I just wanted to say thank you . I'll probably modify that a little bit and make my auger do muscle work but I was originally going to do like a fan drive with just air and and pipe running underneath the ground underneath the foundation
My mom lives on a big, deep lake in VA, where the temp is always around 50 degrees below the thermocline (around 13ft). I've always wanted to do a pond loop geothermal system for her, but felt like it was too much to bite off.
Hi Katie - The connection is a "U" coupling. The fluid goes down one then up tying the ten pairs together for a continuous circuit, each conditioning the fluid for use.
hey! I like your pressure gauges. A lot! :) Love the sight glass! I'd have also liked an inline temp gauge of some sort just for an extra giggle. just getting a feel of the pipe is very cool also.
Thank you. I think it depends where you live. I live in the Catskill Mountains of NY and our ground is hardpan with lots of rocks so going down 20 feet might not be possible so I would have to find another way to dig down that deep. I'm wondering if you're getting some loss with the upside tube being close or in contact with the return tube, maybe insulating the tube for the last 4 or 5 feet might yield higher temps. A lot depends on your location and soil but at 20 feet you should have pretty stable temps. I measured the temp from my 175' deep water well, I'm getting about 54° to 56°F by the way. Interesting thinking, very creative, thanks again.
I am a electrical engineering student in the netherlands. We use alot of the geothermal effects of the earth. I really liked your video. I searched specific for DIY cause I want to make this one day. In short. You could also make the system to drive a generator and produce electricity. I really would love that. good luck
Not sure this system would work were as the temp is only 55 to run a generator. it's already using electricy for the pumps. it would cause a lot of friction loss to on incorporate sum type of electric generator.
You don't have to have steam in order to generate electricity. A stirling engine only uses a heat differential to create mechanical energy from a heat source and a cold (less heat) source.
Hey superedrix, Ik zag je reactie op de geo diy. Ben zelf informatie aan t verzamelen voor t effectief verwarmen en koelen van gebouwen en specifiek voor 4 season greenhouse. Als je leuk vind kan ik je wat info geven wat ik aan t ontwerpen ben. Waar liggen jou eventuele raakvlakken betreft kennis en interesses. Groetjes Ian
Hi Larry, I’m extremely impressed with your ingenuity.. truth is brother.. I need this bad LOL I’m a military guy here in Tennessee, (101st AB Div) I have a remote piece of property, and I’m building my own hybrid cabin. I’ve done all the work myself. so very close to being Completely off grid... but I certainly could use some expertise or suggestions on how to complete a project like this, do you have a materials list by any chance That I could get..? Thank you!
Wow super job! If you find an efficient water source heat pump you could heat and cool your home as well as domestic hot water for very small cost, and even lower energy consumption! It's not hard to add on, and it could easily handle your home plus any additions
Stuart, çheck out "Water Drill Bit Repair". It will show how to make the water drill for your well holes. Remember, this drill does not work well in stone, rock or gravel unless your water flow volume and rate can bring up stone. My ground is sod on top followed by 10 inches of yellow sand and then hard clay going down as far as I have ever drilled. My deepest hole was 25 feet.
I'm planning on building a Climate Battery underneath a greenhouse I'm designing right now and that made me think about doing that for a raised foundation home if I were to use an ICF foundation and SIP's for the exterior walls and roof. I'm also interested in doing a system like yours for hydronic heat loops underneath the hard wood flooring to radiate the heat. I've never seen a system like yours but it's worthy of consideration to think about. I would think that combining at least two systems together would work supper well and might increase the temperature in the winter. My thought would be to install your system as a radiant heat loop system in concrete and have the tubes attached to rebar inside of that concrete so that it helps transfers the heat to have better heat radiation coming from the concrete inside a greenhouse. Put that block of concrete or wall of concrete on the back wall of the greenhouse or even the floor but also connect it to a solar system to increase the output and thus be able to heat the structure to whatever temperature you desire for free besides the cost of the supplies and labor. I'd have to think about this a little bit more but I can imagine doing this same thing in a home. I'm a carpenter and build homes from the ground up only using my own hands and without any hired labor except on concrete days.
I have friends that don’t work well with others and me and a helper are 3 -4 times faster without compromising quality it is impressive but not as efficient and they would make more but lack the social skills or patience I suppose
@@jonathanbuford1793 I've hired people to work with me before and have no issues doing that but I like working alone and taking my own sweet time. Besides, I don't have to pay those labor rates. I'm building a 64x40 post frame shop on my property right now all by myself. It's going up fast. It keeps me very much in shape doing it alone and I like that.
This just went on the list titled " What would You do with an extra $1000/mo? " great job man! im curious as to what you would do different if anything after having used the system and what performance tweeks you would make if you did it again.
I've seen similar drilling techniques when researching about drilling a well. I understand doing the vertical lines as opposed to using a large area.. Just not sure why you didn't want to put in the compressor and exchange , to have much more heat available.
Once you put a heat pump on that circuit, it can be used for AC as well as heat. You will most likely need to have a heat exchanger and put anti freeze in the circuit. Note in northern locations you need to go 5 feet down with your trenches. The pros use poly fusion because of the glycol. They also fill those holes with concrete. Just saying I have worked on these systems as a plumber and steamfitter.
Great simple design ! I know it would cost more but using copper instead of plastic would transfer temperature more efficiently and last longer underground than plastic .
Copper certainly has better thermal conduction, but the added cost isn't worth it. Rather than significantly increasing costs and complexity by using copper, you could just drill a few.more wells. you'd also have to solder every fitting instead of easy to use hose clamps. each run of pipe would have to be thought out so the next joint could be made as opposed to just moving the flexible plastic where it needed to go. Last, I don't think copper would deal with the ground settling and heaving from the frost as well as a flexible solution will. So lots of drawbacks for better thermal conductivity that can be compensated for by adding a few more wells.
Very Nice! Why did you decide on 10 wells? Why not 20 or 5? I love the idea but would like to know more about the thermal capacity of the ground. Can I "heat" the ground losing efficiency but gaining planting time in a greenhouse, can a system be put in more linear and help keep my grapevine roots warm all winter... LOL, all rhetorical....I love the idea!! Nice job!!
I have studied Geo for cooling process water in the summer & heating in the winter. I came up with 600ft under frost line can equal 1 ton off chilling/heating
Good job , well done . Money saved and good indoor climate , armchair experts didnt understand your gain , but you said it : colder than shit , thats good enough
Great idea. We have been discussing this kind of thing since the 1970s. Virtually no environmental impact. Initial investment very reasonable. The question would be what kind of long-term maintenance is needed and what is the life Spand of the tubes in the ground with out maintenance. Overall I believe every new house should be equipped with a geothermal heating system. Nice job.
Thanks David! The system is still working as designed although I added a small heat pump the following year and it keeps the 32X32 insulated garage at 65F all winter. It is the BOSCH LV012 water to air. I found it on Ebay for $500. delivered.
At the end of the video their was an opportunity to view the video, "GeoThermal DIY #2" which demonstrates the insertion of the Propolene Glycol antifreeze into the system. You can view the video here, th-cam.com/video/pfJQWDf958E/w-d-xo.html Glad you enoyed the video.
i thought of doing the same thing for many years however, instead of a radiator, i thought of using 55 gallon plastic barrels inline with each other. full of water. You have massive amounts of thermal energy stored in the barrels of water. The barrels spread out would just radiate heat placed at strategic locations. Wouldn't have the cost of and expensive of running an electric fan
Thanks Ron! At 75 I wish I had the time to create and edit videos and post them on all the things I do. If I did then all I would be doing is publishing and I would have no time to do any of my projects. Some of them are my 18W x 40L x 12H greenhouse from 1.5" pvc and lumber that I built in just over 3 weeks for under $1,200.00 and it totally laughed at 60MPH wind gusts. I am building a "She-Shed" on the property for my wife and 14 grandkids. Also I added a Bosch Heat Pump to the ground loop you commented on. I am wiring, trimming and finishing the greenhouse, the workshop. I have a small farm that makes huge demands on my time. I ride and race dirt bikes and my custom road bike has over 100K miles on it, I also build, restore and customize all kinds of bikes. I'm gathering materials for my 24' positive displacement wind generator design and as a certified scuba diver, I'm well along with my high powered, streamlined underwater propulsion unit capable of up to "25MPH UNDER WATER" and many, many other projects. Of course, that does not include the time consumed by the gorgeous gal who keeps me grounded and motivated. Thanks again for your kind words, Larry
The worm gear clamp should be checked for steel components, since lots of these worm gear clamps are steel worms and stainless steel band. Use a magnet when selecting the worm gear clamps and anything that sticks to the magnet put it back on the shelf... that won't last long while underground, in water.
Two taps, one on each incoming waterline, to stop flow or enable you to change the fan for another device.less mess and saves time. Ted Ryan AUSTRALIA. PS. Thank you Tr.
Thank you for the video. This looks like a great project. Would you share your parts list? I see a number of valves and fittings around the circulating pump and am unsure as to why they are there. I am obviously not a plummer and need the help.
I'm not a plumber either, but I see Larry has a teed ball valve on each side of the pump, with adapters to take a garden hose on the right-hand tee, which is for filling the system. At least one set of valves placed around any part that can break or wear out is usually for ease to remove or replace that part in the future, especially without draining the system.
Damm that is the cleanest shop i have every seen...... is water flow on demand from the stat only ? Also do you find the small ex tank sufficient , i was thinking a larger tank would be nice but may act as a thermal sink
Excellent DIY setup. Can't believe you did nearly all that yourself. I have concerns about the depth of the lines outside. Do you get frost in your area? What is the likelihood that frost will affect your circuit during winter?
Looks awesome would love to see some video evidence of efficientcy temp of radiator vs air temp before/after on/off Few hours or however long you like I mean it's a lot to install
Great job! As a kid, I remember screwing around, trying to see how far I could bore the garden hose into the ground! I guess I was on the track I'd love to know how this worked out over a winter. What sort of indoor and outdoor temperatures were you seeing?
At a quick glance, i noticed no one commented on the staging and routing of the geothermal system. it is common knowledge that an electric pump generates it's own heat and is cooled by the water it is pumping. the proper order for this type of system should route from the field through the radiator first, then through the bladder tank and finally through the pump and fed back to the field after having lost most if not all of the heat. hot water through a pump will cause it to fail prematurely. plus you want to use the water for heating at it's hottest available, the less time the water has to cool before going through the radiator, the more efficient the system will be.
Pumps used on hot water systems using a boiler are designed to function efficiently with hot water and not fail plus remember this water is only 55-60 degrees anyways
Unless I'm missing something here , why would you need a pressure tank for a system that wont ever have high temp that would cause expansion ?? Its a complete waist of a pressure tank that will never see any pressure ! Unless your planning on using another source of heat on this system.
Larry, very impressed by your system, still working fine? If for instance you wanted to heat a house, could this be extended and if so, do you have any calculations on the typical coverage and pipe requirements, just an example if possible. Thanks Gaz
Pretty good I would say. Very ingenious. What radiator did you use, looks like something from a CAT or heat pump system. What is the temp difference between in Well In and Well Out. Probably varies with the amount of water GPM flow.
Larry I like your work, nice and neat. But I'm confused to how this could heat your shop? At best you will have a fan blowing across a 55 degree radiator. So you can't get above 55 degrees at the very best, and more likely not above 45 with heat loss to the environment. Are those temperature all you require?
Excellent DIY design. No 'contractors' necessary. Would love to see more of the howto on the drilling. Perhaps he could have gone deeper and buried the 'hosing loop arch' deeper down to avoid frost and get a more consistent temperature. Love to know what region he lived in and 'base temperature' of the soil.
I noticed recently at Leiden, Why those contractors putted down A few hundred meters 2 inch black plastic pipes.. geo thermal heating ! Because of the clay did they use drilling machines, and they digged A large scale of pipelines at least one meter deep in the ground. Thanks A lot, to see this simple design! Have A merry Christmast, and A happy New year.
@@ВладимирПутин-е7м , however use Google by checking what this man promissed: Normal at ten meter deep, water temperature is only 12 degrees Celsius. In the Netherlands have we to dig 100 meter, before the temperatures teaches 55 degrees Celsius. So, our men must have known, to have builded his house above A warmwater well... His systhem can help prevent agains frost, and iT might help to cool the house in the summer till 12 degrees Celsius. But by 20 feet in No way till A warm house.
Distilled Water is the best for continuous systems. You only use antifreeze is you don't think you are going to run the system when the ground is frozen. This is the beauty of using a bypass solar water heater. The solar water heater is a free water pump. As the water heats the pressure rises and the water expands, which forces the cold water up from the feeder end of the loop into the water heater. Solar water heaters can heat water to over 260 F (or 127 C) so a carefully designed temperature release valve must be established. Love from Chicago...
How would gt system work as zones. ie the garage in-floor, or after this winter a thermal driveway sys. You're in good shape, you sure you're not plumber ? good job, lawrence. thank-u
Amazing Larry, I was wondering how to drill the holes. Your method took a little time, but it worked. I’m in Florida sand, so are you going to connect a heat pump and coolant to have air conditioning in your garage?
You are a freaking genius thank you for that detailed build. I've watched a lot of videos and this one made so much sense in such a simple way thank you again! I feel smarter just watching your videos.
Thank you for sharing, especially for your ingenious method of hole boring!!! I really appreciate your showing that because it's so low-cost and so creative; I have gotten in the rut of thinking I "must have special equipment" and your video brings me back to reality.
Because you asked (and ONLY because you asked) , a couple of thoughts from a renewable energy engineer:
1. If (WHEN) I do this I'll put antifreeze in the lines; yes it will be expensive, and for 99% of the time unnecessary, but it will be an additional factor of safety. I'll also dig my horizontal lines lower (my frost depth in a good winter is four feet).
2. I hope the turnabout fittings you have at the bottom of your wells are rated for really high pressures; otherwise they might get damaged over time. I would probably improve on your method by wrapping the ends in something to protect against gravel intrusion.
3. It looks to me like you sunk way more than enough wells. I would be curious to know the results of a load test (if you are cooling in the summer, how much heat can the ground absorb before return water starts to get warmer, and vice versa for winter?)
4. Also out of curiosity, when I do this I'll try to find budget to sink a thermocouple down some of the wells to measure resource temperature.
The drilling part is the best! Great video!
Larry I think everybody here wants to hear how it has worked in your greenhouse? Where are you and with heat gain and loss through the greenhouse walls has your system done the job you wanted? Hope you can do a followup video soon.
DISCLAIMER, I do not advocate or recommend any of these products or procedures are suitable or should be used in any way for any purpose. You proceed at your own risk and you are responsible for your own actions and the results you get by using any products or procedures noted here in.
======================
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3/4 in. Blue Twister Polypropylene
www.homedepot.com/s/3%252F4%2520in.%2520Blue%2520Twister%2520Polypropylene?NCNI-5
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Menards,
Search Bar, “poly pipe” press enter, Select, ¾ in poly pipe, (irrigation Tubing) press enter, make your selections.
Air Separator Manifold,
www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/watts-reg-1-1-4-fip-cast-iron-air-separator/0858536/p-1444446195278-c-8523.htm?tid=-1863207083524858620&ipos=2
automatic air vent valve,
www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/watts-reg-1-8-automatic-air-vent-valve/0590715/p-1444446175469-c-8523.htm
water expansion tank,
www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/watts-reg-2-1-gallons-non-potable-water-expansion-tank/etx-15/p-105478063016-c-8523.htm
3 speed circulator pump,
www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/hydro-smart-trade-1-25-hp-3-speed-circulator-pump/hs00r-3spdcsti/p-1450446643169-c-8523.htm?tid=-6119193669850601549&ipos=11
Circulation Pump Kit,
www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/webstone-reg-sweat-lead-free-isolator-circulation-pump-kit/h-51414wkit/p-1512026997655-c-8523.htm?tid=-8480272877282241141&ipos=12
Antifreeze, Propylene Glycol.
Do your own research about what you are using and be sure to understand what this product is and how to use it safely.
consult OSHA.GOV
polypropylene glycol MSDS
www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/hydronic-radiant-heat/hydronic-heat-cleaners-treatments/hercules-reg-cryo-tek-trade-100-anti-freeze/35284/p-1444449933130-c-8528.htm
translation.......it doesn't work LOL.....he still needs a heat pump
I love the way you drilled the holes. When piping I would have done a common flow and return header with individual branches for each drop, easier to vent. Maybe filled with glycol too. Great vid
Great idea. Can you do a short video using an infrared thermometer to show the incoming and out going temp of the water, during a hot day, and a cold day. and give the outside temp and temp inside the room. And maybe put a metal object in front of the fan to get a good idea of how cold (or hot) the temp of the air coming off of the fan is.
also can you tell us how much water per minute is circulating, and how much kilowatt hours are being used.
I think you did great. I have been trying to build a similar system with geothermal components involved . I came across your video and I am grateful for you sharing it. keep building fam, much love
Tks Dave. Add your efforts and experience to the common knowledge. We all will build on it.
@@larryshea8595 how well did it work ?
only need inlet from loop to go to a 'T' ,
pump is under T
..
reservoir of small jug/carboy
off hose line AUTO PURGES
You could stick a ground source heat pump on this and get much more heat out (you have to put some electric in, but its close to 1:4 units).
colder climates will require a deeper trench for your horizontal run. example, Minneapolis permafrost depth is 3.5', so plumbing water pipes are set at around 6' deep or lower. meaning, the ground is ice for around 3.5', and will cause problems with water pipes used for geothermal transference. nice diy.
This system is charged with 70% propylene glycol, a heat transfer fluid with anti corrosion properties. Freeze protection to 30 below. (Do not use ethylene glycol. That is car motor antifreeze. It can contaminate the aquifer.) Watch, "geothermal diy #2
Now that you have a year under your belt with this system, we would love to hear how it's working for you both summer and winter.
We would all love to see a follow up video if that's possible. Thank you, John
John Wyman I was wondering the same questions. How does it work in the summer as for cooling. Wondering if it could be used in the desert to cool off a house ?
I'm also interested!
interested as well
Also interested, especially for air conditioner
Now it's been two years...
LARRY first i would like to say thankyou for providing and insightful video of such a beautiful project with brilliant ideas. A real big thankyou!!!!!!❤❤❤
Good video, looked like a fun project. Reminded me of a rig my grandfather had in his home. Probably 40 years back I was in the basement of my grandparents house with my uncle probably in his 50’s and he pointed to a copper pipe tee with two 1/2” pipes attached thru reducers to it and a 1-1/2” pipe coming out the third going into the ground. Questioned me do you know what that is, follow the pipes and try to figure it out? The T was oriented so the angle was off to the side, went into a reducer then a elbow and went up parallel to the other 1/2” pipe coming out the top thru a reducer into the house. The third 1-1/2” pipe went into the ground. I traced the pipes out, the side pipe was connected to the water main and the second went to the cold water tap in the bathroom. I was still clueless. He said you ever notice the water in the bathroom is always colder than the other faucets in the house. He said back when he was young and they moved into the city from the country his dad was upset whenever he got up in the middle of the night and wanted a drink of water be cause the city water was so warm compared to the well water he would have back at the farm before they moved. The third thicker pipe was a pipe inside a pipe and went 60’ into the ground to cool the city water. How many years back was it when they put that in, no clue, but the day I discovered the term geothermal for cooling I knew exactly what they were talking about, no convincing required.
Larry, you could lay some solid insulation over your wells and links to not lose a few degrees of ground temperature in the circuit. And even wrapping those pipes with insulation before covering them with foam board or other hard insulation material. I built a geothermal house did the complete install of pipe in a ground-loop system, built my own riser board to mount the pump, valves, to a Waterfurnace heat-pump. I heated and cooled the 3500 sq ft for $150-175 per month. It was a super insulated house with foot thick walls and 1 foot of attic blown insulation.
I agree insulate the upper tubes because heat will be lost to the cold ground in winter so less heat will make it back. In summer the ground will be heated by the sun which will reduce cooling performance. To my mind 60ft2 of tube surface area isnt a lot for heat exchange.
Amazing! I am moving to NC and want to build a greenhouse thanks for answering the A/C portion in the green house! Im going to add solar and batteries with an A/C inverter to run the pump and fan! Thank you very much!
Hello Larry thank you for sharing the video. I am building a greenhouse for my hydroponic garden. Its very very hot here in Kuwait, and I want to use 2 cooling systems: Geothermal and water cooled air-conditioner. I buried my water hose 4 meters below surface. Because the sand is very dry in the summer. I laid plastic sheet under pipes to help keep moisture. In addition to that, I connected a drain pipe to about 3 meters down when I drain my water/solution tank so that I keep some moisture around the underground pipes to help in heat exchange. I am still curious about the delta T, temperature difference. I will add a water thermometer for water in and out of the system.
Great way to keep a green house in Canada warm enough during the winter to beat the high cost of veggies.
I made a system for my doghouse with a fan, pvc pipe(20 ft),it worked fucking great! I was 12 yrs old! 100 degrees outside, 80 degrees inside. Dog loved it!
Solar and windmills all shit!! This science of using the earths stable yr round temp is awesome!!
Nice job Larry. You gave me a great idea about drilling the vertical loops
(I second the question) "Can you do a follow up and if you’d do anything different please?"
hi larry, its great, i have few question if you could answer, first your design is way simpler which is great for people like us, i am interested in cooling only, (not heating), now 1. how deep you put tubes inside ground 2. what was your ambient temperature ? 3. what is your room temperature 4. what is outlet temperature of your water coming circulated via ground pipes ? and what was your room temperature becomes after system was running, appreciate your support here
Can you do a follow up on your geothermal system. Looked awesome.
What a great idea. The title of the video says #1, is there supposed to be a second video? I see you have a lot of private videos in your play list?
Since this video is 2 years old, could you make an update video? Would you do anything different?
Watched an 'off grid program' of a guy in Alaska ('Homestead Help' or something like that) and this guy had set up a greenhouse 'in Alaska' a 20' high glass, double insulated blah blah' and was growing Avocado trees inside'. He had it attached to a GeoThermal circuit and said 'my heating costs for this green house come from the heating I have inside' (the house) ' and geothermal." "Can't allow any frost in here or its 'all dead' (gesturing his trees and edible plants)." I was blown away. A greenhouse in Alaska usable ALL WINTER', even during 'dark days'. Wonder if they do that sort of thing in Russia?
Very nice. I would use insulation on the pipe exiting the radiator!! Excellent video
Larry, 1. you should have filled the boreholes up with BENTONITE CLAY, to get better thermal contact.
2. did you put antifreeze in the system, this greatly improves the thermal transfer of heat.
...as long as the bentonite stays moist...if it dries out it will pull away from the loop, creating an air gap...just something to think about...
Free dirt is cheaper. Dirt cheap🤣
nice work bill, waiting for red green to jump in at any moment
Ive heard that before... How's your system coming?.
Did you put one in? How did it go?
Larry well done, your drilling technique is genius! Please do a follow-up on this to show the results.
great job man! if i did this at my place i would need a rock drill attached to one of those fence post augur machines 😅 considering how expensive commercial setups cost, youve saved a mint
Putting it in the greenhouse is a great use for GEO. I put a sand floor in my greenhouse and electric ground wire system fresh tomatoes in December but the cost of electric heat made it impactable. I know there is water on my place there use to be a well covered now with a BBQ a rock ledge may be my only problem if the spring is running under or voer the ledge.
good thinking!
I was skeptical at first, but you did a nice job.
Gotta say, the way you dug your holes is really smart! Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. Really cool. Like you mentioned, you could add a ground source heat pump to this loop and depending on your insulation and the climate you live in, you could have a heated garage, or heat a hot water tank.. or all of it as well as cooling for the greenhouse! The bladder tank is a nice touch, it will keep your pressure consistent, but as an added benefit you run a lot less risk rupturing your lines with a temperature change of your fluid.
Larry great design . Only thing i would have added is to use a hydrostat to control fan and or pump so they are not running when not needed. Otherwise great job and great idea.
Some thoughts - First congratulations this seems very cool for a DIY project.
These are not meant to be critical just observations:
You may want to use it to "Air condition" the garage during the summer. Not sure what this will cost to run the system. But it will do positive things assuming you want to cool the garage. The other thing running it during the summer will do. It will be warming the ground up so that you can pull more heat back out in the winter. One problem all closed loop geothermal systems suffer from is that as the season continues the ground gets hotter or colder. So "pre-heating" in the summer will help with the winter. If the system is large enough this is more of a theoretical concern than one that is practical. But the ground will cool down the longer you run the system in the winter time.
The other observation I have is piping layout. You could do it with a lot fewer elbows. Elbows cause pressure drop and reduce flow or require more power from the pump to produce the same flow, and more joints means more leak points. If the flow is slow enough the pressure drop is not much of an issue. But I saw a lot of opportunities to make the piping more direct and cut out quite a few elbows. IDK if the pump needed to be horizontal, but you could have put it in the down leg instead of crossing back to the other side, or even just kept it in the same horizontal run as the tank and air bleeder.
Have to say it is well thought out.... and you have left the system open to adding future mods so you are covered. The only thing I can think of is a variable-speed motor. It would cost out front but pay off in the long run Also depends on the future mods.. But for a DYI you did great...
Tks!
Well I do have a 3 speed box fan...
Now if you have central air in your house. You could install a evap coil and run this water throw it. Then use a relay and the exsting thermostat in your home to control temp by controlling the pump and fan. Also there's already an existing way to collect condensation in a air handler or evaporator case. Plus the added benefit of filtering the air.
You deserve more views, you did with 1000 usd the same than others do with 15000 usd and using more energy as well.
In combination with a heat pump you could get three times more heat.
What does that mean..? (I'm a novice, trying to learn about GeoThermal heating).
@@ВладимирПутин-е7м basically like a fridge; compressor and refrigerant of some type; heat exchange to ground loop.
What he doesn't mention is the cost just went from 2-3k to 10-20k.
For an outdoor greenhouse; this simple system is perfect.
Thx for sharing. Great idea on the PVC for drilling the deep hole.
This looks pretty awesome. I have been thinking about doing this exact same thing. i just want to keep my garage from freezing and maybe cool it in the summer. i too would like to see what the temps are at the radiator. great job on the build
Very interesting , think you should invest in hot iron tool to make bottom connection on in-ground pipe. Great project.
That's great for cooling but a black3/4 line in a spiral out in the sun .insulated. Would be the hot line just would have to put a few ball valves to switch from heating to cooling. Thanks for the idea
very impressive
I dont know why this wouldnt work on a large scale with an air return and a decent sized cfm fan. In fact a solar panel on the circulation pump. And some simple duct work for a return that pushes the air over the coil and boom. You need only a drain for the condensation and I feel like you can heat and cool as big a space as you want
I'm planning on putting up a 20x50 workshop in Tucson and using this to heat / cool the whole thing. Don't see any reason why it won't work perfectly fine.
@@dienekes4364 Did you put the shop up and install this system? Curious how it worked out.
Love it! I'm thinking of trying a similar thing, open loop style. Water from my well already runs continuously to the barn all winter. I figure there that's a huge untapped heat source, but haven't run the numbers yet. I have a number allergy.
Hey that is genius by the way. I think I got some old radiators and some stuff and I might have to rig something like that up when I get my greenhouses going here in a few months I just wanted to say thank you . I'll probably modify that a little bit and make my auger do muscle work but I was originally going to do like a fan drive with just air and and pipe running underneath the ground underneath the foundation
My mom lives on a big, deep lake in VA, where the temp is always around 50 degrees below the thermocline (around 13ft).
I've always wanted to do a pond loop geothermal system for her, but felt like it was too much to bite off.
Would love more information about how you decided how much tube you needed and why you used those connections at the bottom of the holes
The connection is a "U" coupling. The fluid goes down then comes up. Each tied together for a continuous loop.
Hi Katie - The connection is a "U" coupling. The fluid goes down one then up tying the ten pairs together for a continuous circuit, each conditioning the fluid for use.
hey! I like your pressure gauges. A lot! :) Love the sight glass! I'd have also liked an inline temp gauge of some sort just for an extra giggle. just getting a feel of the pipe is very cool also.
Thank you.
I think it depends where you live. I live in the Catskill Mountains of NY and our ground is hardpan with lots of rocks so going down 20 feet might not be possible so I would have to find another way to dig down that deep.
I'm wondering if you're getting some loss with the upside tube being close or in contact with the return tube, maybe insulating the tube for the last 4 or 5 feet might yield higher temps. A lot depends on your location and soil but at 20 feet you should have pretty stable temps. I measured the temp from my 175' deep water well, I'm getting about 54° to 56°F by the way.
Interesting thinking, very creative, thanks again.
I am a electrical engineering student in the netherlands.
We use alot of the geothermal effects of the earth.
I really liked your video. I searched specific for DIY cause I want to make this one day.
In short.
You could also make the system to drive a generator and produce electricity.
I really would love that.
good luck
Yeah maybe if your near a volcanic vent lol to use a generator you need steam to make steam you need lots of heat probably start at 400* f.
But produce electricity need 2 wells of 1000 metters to make steam it's costing
Not sure this system would work were as the temp is only 55 to run a generator. it's already using electricy for the pumps. it would cause a lot of friction loss to on incorporate sum type of electric generator.
You don't have to have steam in order to generate electricity.
A stirling engine only uses a heat differential to create mechanical energy from a heat source and a cold (less heat) source.
Hey superedrix,
Ik zag je reactie op de geo diy.
Ben zelf informatie aan t verzamelen voor t effectief verwarmen en koelen van gebouwen en specifiek voor 4 season greenhouse.
Als je leuk vind kan ik je wat info geven wat ik aan t ontwerpen ben.
Waar liggen jou eventuele raakvlakken betreft kennis en interesses.
Groetjes Ian
Hi Larry, I’m extremely impressed with your ingenuity.. truth is brother..
I need this bad LOL I’m a military guy here in Tennessee, (101st AB Div) I have a remote piece of property, and I’m building my own hybrid cabin. I’ve done all the work myself. so very close to being Completely off grid... but I certainly could use some expertise or suggestions on how to complete a project like this, do you have a materials list by any chance That I could get..? Thank you!
I think it will work but for how long is the question a up date would be nice great build sir.
It looks pretty cool to me I'm going to try that myself come spring pretty good there buddy pretty darn good!
The info on digging the vertical loops is good. The end system will have little effect heating or cooling. You need to put a heatpump in the system.
You should do a update video in winter to show that the system does work and warms up yo 55 degrees
I don't think this dude responds to YO 😆
Wow super job! If you find an efficient water source heat pump you could heat and cool your home as well as domestic hot water for very small cost, and even lower energy consumption! It's not hard to add on, and it could easily handle your home plus any additions
Wow. I dont know anything about this but i am definitely trying it
Stuart, çheck out "Water Drill Bit Repair". It will show how to make the water drill for your well holes. Remember, this drill does not work well in stone, rock or gravel unless your water flow volume and rate can bring up stone. My ground is sod on top followed by 10 inches of yellow sand and then hard clay going down as far as I have ever drilled. My deepest hole was 25 feet.
I'm planning on building a Climate Battery underneath a greenhouse I'm designing right now and that made me think about doing that for a raised foundation home if I were to use an ICF foundation and SIP's for the exterior walls and roof. I'm also interested in doing a system like yours for hydronic heat loops underneath the hard wood flooring to radiate the heat. I've never seen a system like yours but it's worthy of consideration to think about. I would think that combining at least two systems together would work supper well and might increase the temperature in the winter. My thought would be to install your system as a radiant heat loop system in concrete and have the tubes attached to rebar inside of that concrete so that it helps transfers the heat to have better heat radiation coming from the concrete inside a greenhouse. Put that block of concrete or wall of concrete on the back wall of the greenhouse or even the floor but also connect it to a solar system to increase the output and thus be able to heat the structure to whatever temperature you desire for free besides the cost of the supplies and labor. I'd have to think about this a little bit more but I can imagine doing this same thing in a home. I'm a carpenter and build homes from the ground up only using my own hands and without any hired labor except on concrete days.
I have friends that don’t work well with others and me and a helper are 3 -4 times faster without compromising quality it is impressive but not as efficient and they would make more but lack the social skills or patience I suppose
@@jonathanbuford1793 I've hired people to work with me before and have no issues doing that but I like working alone and taking my own sweet time. Besides, I don't have to pay those labor rates. I'm building a 64x40 post frame shop on my property right now all by myself. It's going up fast. It keeps me very much in shape doing it alone and I like that.
Can you do a follow up and if you’d do anything different please?
Love it. Thank you for the video!
Thank you for sharing. Smart idea.
This just went on the list titled " What would You do with an extra $1000/mo? " great job man! im curious as to what you would do different if anything after having used the system and what performance tweeks you would make if you did it again.
I've seen similar drilling techniques when researching about drilling a well. I understand doing the vertical lines as opposed to using a large area.. Just not sure why you didn't want to put in the compressor and exchange , to have much more heat available.
Once you put a heat pump on that circuit, it can be used for AC as well as heat. You will most likely need to have a heat exchanger and put anti freeze in the circuit. Note in northern locations you need to go 5 feet down with your trenches. The pros use poly fusion because of the glycol. They also fill those holes with concrete. Just saying I have worked on these systems as a plumber and steamfitter.
Looks logical. We have slate ground. A bit different, but the logic is good.
Great simple design !
I know it would cost more but using copper instead of plastic would transfer temperature more efficiently and last longer underground than plastic .
The cost would kill it
Copper certainly has better thermal conduction, but the added cost isn't worth it. Rather than significantly increasing costs and complexity by using copper, you could just drill a few.more wells. you'd also have to solder every fitting instead of easy to use hose clamps. each run of pipe would have to be thought out so the next joint could be made as opposed to just moving the flexible plastic where it needed to go. Last, I don't think copper would deal with the ground settling and heaving from the frost as well as a flexible solution will. So lots of drawbacks for better thermal conductivity that can be compensated for by adding a few more wells.
Very Nice! Why did you decide on 10 wells? Why not 20 or 5? I love the idea but would like to know more about the thermal capacity of the ground. Can I "heat" the ground losing efficiency but gaining planting time in a greenhouse, can a system be put in more linear and help keep my grapevine roots warm all winter... LOL, all rhetorical....I love the idea!! Nice job!!
I have studied Geo for cooling process water in the summer & heating in the winter. I came up with 600ft under frost line can equal 1 ton off chilling/heating
Good job , well done . Money saved and good indoor climate , armchair experts didnt understand your gain , but you said it : colder than shit , thats good enough
Great idea. We have been discussing this kind of thing since the 1970s. Virtually no environmental impact. Initial investment very reasonable. The question would be what kind of long-term maintenance is needed and what is the life Spand of the tubes in the ground with out maintenance. Overall I believe every new house should be equipped with a geothermal heating system. Nice job.
Thanks David! The system is still working as designed although I added a small heat pump the following year and it keeps the 32X32 insulated garage at 65F all winter. It is the BOSCH LV012 water to air. I found it on Ebay for $500. delivered.
@@larryshea8595 can u use this same system to generate electricity?
Component
@@Gabriela-ge7bx Menards plumbing dept.
You might want to use some type of anti freeze solution as insurance against small sections that may get exposed by mistake to freezing temperatures.
At the end of the video their was an opportunity to view the video, "GeoThermal DIY #2" which demonstrates the insertion of the Propolene Glycol antifreeze into the system. You can view the video here, th-cam.com/video/pfJQWDf958E/w-d-xo.html Glad you enoyed the video.
i thought of doing the same thing for many years however, instead of a radiator, i thought of using 55 gallon plastic barrels inline with each other. full of water. You have massive amounts of thermal energy stored in the barrels of water. The barrels spread out would just radiate heat placed at strategic locations. Wouldn't have the cost of and expensive of running an electric fan
Incredible that you did this. Well done.
Thanks Ron! At 75 I wish I had the time to create and edit videos and post them on all the things I do. If I did then all I would be doing is publishing and I would have no time to do any of my projects. Some of them are my 18W x 40L x 12H greenhouse from 1.5" pvc and lumber that I built in just over 3 weeks for under $1,200.00 and it totally laughed at 60MPH wind gusts. I am building a "She-Shed" on the property for my wife and 14 grandkids. Also I added a Bosch Heat Pump to the ground loop you commented on. I am wiring, trimming and finishing the greenhouse, the workshop. I have a small farm that makes huge demands on my time. I ride and race dirt bikes and my custom road bike has over 100K miles on it, I also build, restore and customize all kinds of bikes. I'm gathering materials for my 24' positive displacement wind generator design and as a certified scuba diver, I'm well along with my high powered, streamlined underwater propulsion unit capable of up to "25MPH UNDER WATER" and many, many other projects. Of course, that does not include the time consumed by the gorgeous gal who keeps me grounded and motivated. Thanks again for your kind words, Larry
I would also like to hear how it's working out
The worm gear clamp should be checked for steel components, since lots of these worm gear clamps are steel worms and stainless steel band. Use a magnet when selecting the worm gear clamps and anything that sticks to the magnet put it back on the shelf... that won't last long while underground, in water.
Two taps, one on each incoming waterline, to stop flow or enable you to change the fan for another device.less mess and saves time. Ted Ryan AUSTRALIA. PS. Thank you Tr.
Thank you for the video. This looks like a great project. Would you share your parts list? I see a number of valves and fittings around the circulating pump and am unsure as to why they are there. I am obviously not a plummer and need the help.
I'm not a plumber either, but I see Larry has a teed ball valve on each side of the pump, with adapters to take a garden hose on the right-hand tee, which is for filling the system. At least one set of valves placed around any part that can break or wear out is usually for ease to remove or replace that part in the future, especially without draining the system.
Damm that is the cleanest shop i have every seen...... is water flow on demand from the stat only ? Also do you find the small ex tank sufficient , i was thinking a larger tank would be nice but may act as a thermal sink
I dont much about geothermal but I think is brilliant.
can you cool a greenhouse with it ???
Creative and nice solution, what are the working circulating temperature of siystem?
Excellent DIY setup. Can't believe you did nearly all that yourself. I have concerns about the depth of the lines outside. Do you get frost in your area? What is the likelihood that frost will affect your circuit during winter?
Loved the diy, do you have a parts list?
I was hoping to see a diy heat pump using that warer
It would be nice to see some calculations of btu performance and compare with actual tests.
Looks awesome would love to see some video evidence of efficientcy temp of radiator vs air temp before/after on/off Few hours or however long you like I mean it's a lot to install
You made it so easy I Know is lot work but the system .. Thanksss
Great job! As a kid, I remember screwing around, trying to see how far I could bore the garden hose into the ground! I guess I was on the track I'd love to know how this worked out over a winter. What sort of indoor and outdoor temperatures were you seeing?
At a quick glance, i noticed no one commented on the staging and routing of the geothermal system. it is common knowledge that an electric pump generates it's own heat and is cooled by the water it is pumping. the proper order for this type of system should route from the field through the radiator first, then through the bladder tank and finally through the pump and fed back to the field after having lost most if not all of the heat. hot water through a pump will cause it to fail prematurely. plus you want to use the water for heating at it's hottest available, the less time the water has to cool before going through the radiator, the more efficient the system will be.
Pumps used on hot water systems using a boiler are designed to function efficiently with hot water and not fail plus remember this water is only 55-60 degrees anyways
I think you did an awesome job...
Unless I'm missing something here , why would you need a pressure tank for a system that wont ever have high temp that would cause expansion ?? Its a complete waist of a pressure tank that will never see any pressure ! Unless your planning on using another source of heat on this system.
You need pressure to push water from that deep.
Larry, very impressed by your system, still working fine? If for instance you wanted to heat a house, could this be extended and if so, do you have any calculations on the typical coverage and pipe requirements, just an example if possible. Thanks Gaz
I used a sawed off 1/2 inch stub flange. Works great
Pretty good I would say. Very ingenious. What radiator did you use, looks like something from a CAT or heat pump system. What is the temp difference between in Well In and Well Out. Probably varies with the amount of water GPM flow.
Larry I like your work, nice and neat. But I'm confused to how this could heat your shop? At best you will have a fan blowing across a 55 degree radiator. So you can't get above 55 degrees at the very best, and more likely not above 45 with heat loss to the environment. Are those temperature all you require?
Great, simpel design. Congratulstions!
Excellent DIY design. No 'contractors' necessary. Would love to see more of the howto on the drilling. Perhaps he could have gone deeper and buried the 'hosing loop arch' deeper down to avoid frost and get a more consistent temperature. Love to know what region he lived in and 'base temperature' of the soil.
I noticed recently at Leiden, Why those contractors putted down A few hundred meters 2 inch black plastic pipes.. geo thermal heating ! Because of the clay did they use drilling machines, and they digged A large scale of pipelines at least one meter deep in the ground. Thanks A lot, to see this simple design! Have A merry Christmast, and A happy New year.
@@ВладимирПутин-е7м , however use Google by checking what this man promissed:
Normal at ten meter deep, water temperature is only 12 degrees Celsius. In the Netherlands have we to dig 100 meter, before the temperatures teaches 55 degrees Celsius. So, our men must have known, to have builded his house above A warmwater well...
His systhem can help prevent agains frost, and iT might help to cool the house in the summer till 12 degrees Celsius. But by 20 feet in No way till A warm house.
Add a fan shroud and get all the air flow thru the radiator
Larry, this is amazing. I am curious where you bought those turnaround fittings for the u bend in the wells.
Great project! Love it! I wonder is there a better fluid to use perhaps antifreeze/coolant?
Distilled Water is the best for continuous systems. You only use antifreeze is you don't think you are going to run the system when the ground is frozen. This is the beauty of using a bypass solar water heater. The solar water heater is a free water pump. As the water heats the pressure rises and the water expands, which forces the cold water up from the feeder end of the loop into the water heater. Solar water heaters can heat water to over 260 F (or 127 C) so a carefully designed temperature release valve must be established.
Love from Chicago...
How would gt system work as zones. ie the garage in-floor, or after this winter a thermal driveway sys. You're in good shape, you sure you're not plumber ? good job, lawrence. thank-u
Pretty good, if you have time, could you add a parts.
Amazing Larry, I was wondering how to drill the holes. Your method took a little time, but it worked. I’m in Florida sand, so are you going to connect a heat pump and coolant to have air conditioning in your garage?