DUCTS DUCTS DUCTS!! 3DPrinter duct design
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มี.ค. 2023
- My current view on ducts! This may not be reality, but it's my reality at this point!
I have made so many ducts and had so many failures! Without CFD software I would still be cussing!
My knowledge of the ducts/airflow is very limited. Design, test, repeat. Through some of those changes I learned some, and some nothing. I am an expert is what not to do!
Until I started to CFD analyze them the results were not great and I am sure there is much more to improve. It is what it is! Hope to see more ideas out there!
I have tried water tests (I have some videos also of water depression tests), and they are lacking! What seems great in water does not always translate to a good duct. Although it will show some things, but it is not a tell all, at least in my experiments!
The main take from this is to show that cooling at the nozzle may seem the obvious thing to do. However, if you are moving along at a good pace, the toolhead is not there long enough to do much cooling. Also, hitting the material, hard, with air, can cool sections too fast and lead to warping, cracking, ETC. In my last video of the 11 minute benchy you can see discoloration of the filament. Even though I was printing at 290C, the 4028 and duct was cooling too much. Not so much the layer adhesion was bad, there was no cracking of the part and was quite strong, but enough there was a dull finish in certain areas. The filament, as is, is almost a matte finish anyway, but clearly a different color in different portions of the model. This is actually a good thing, in terms of fan efficiency. I can better control the part with fan instead of the temp of the hotend. This means I need to better slice the file keeping in mind where to put the air or where to slow down or speed up the print.
Thanks for watching.
Very nice work !
Super cool
I think I'm not alone when I say that I'm interested in the STL. I have tried many different ducts and all of them suffer at higher speeds and have the same deformation you described.
This particular duct was one of the 1st 'different style' ducts I made. It works better than a lot of ducts but I ended up with a bigger blower. That duct is on thingiverse here:www.thingiverse.com/thing:5774249
@@MrRocksalt cheers. will put it to test once I figure out how to convert to a suitable X-gantry for EVA toolhead. happy new year.
I love videos like this, nice work! What software do you use for the CFD simulations?
Btw are those all genuine HIWIN rails? An overview of your build would make a great video 😊
No, they are not all HIWIN. This build started as comparison test from corexy. So I used what parts I had to make a cross gantry, test it, and try and get some sense of where I was in comparison. So I have X HIWIN, Y relibot, YYXX Two Trees. just a mix of rails with ceramic ball bearings, except the HIWIN. The HIWIN is the best of the bunch! I might make a video, but this printer is homemade designed cross gantry. One of a kind, made in the garage. Take a look at some of the Annex printers, they are beasts!
@@MrRocksalt intriguing, did you go with silicon nitride balls? I’ve heard mixed things about ceramic balls but I’d love to hear your thoughts/experience, like if any have shattered at high accel.
PS: yeah, that’s why it’s interesting ;) I wasn’t saying to open source it or anything, but just a showcase would be cool if you ever feel like it.
@@BigfootPrinting Sure, I can do that in the future! I think the Annex is a well designed unit and this is, well.. home brew :) Not saying it's super low proof moonshine, but might be better alternatives out there :) No trouble with the balls in some time... But not all generic balls will work. Some rails are preloaded and some have different size balls to begin with. So it's a crap shoot if they work, and are tight.
@@MrRocksalt I too would love to hear more about these ceramic balls. I wanted to try ceramic myself. Have you considered cerekote on the rails? I am building a rook and though about using cerekote to remove the play from cheap carbon fiber rods(similar to how PBC linear ceramic coats their aluminum rods). Also, I just want to say that you really have done some amazing work on those ducts. You truly have a work of art with that printer.
@@BigfootPrinting Good quality ceramic won't shatter like that. You should be able to break the rest of your printer trying to break them if you buy from reputable sources. Like buying cheap titanium fastners. It's not the same stuff.
Looks very similar to one I designed that I’m still using. Use a double 4028, with 2 tubes. Get the fan off the tool head, use TWO cpap hoses, and you could triple the size of the opening. Lol, if only I could post pics……blows like a sob! If you don’t use 2 hoses you will get back pressure at the fan and the air coming out of the duct is significantly less.
I would like to see it! My original intention was to use a 4028 remote. I designed a tube/mount, put a hose, tested it and it did not perform. I made another fan mount with larger volume, tested, and same thing. I could not get the air flow. I think at that point I decided I would try the CPAP and never got around to it. There is much to be revealed with 5015 and 4028 with a good duct, so I pursued that. I will look into it again.
@@MrRocksalt I think the thing that helped me the most was when I recognized the back pressure that was happening just after the fan with the adapter to the house. Then air has to escape somewhere and in my case the back pressure was so bad that it was coming out the intake side of the fan. Added another port and it was a significant increase in air traveling through the house. Look forward to more vids!
most importantly >> where can we download the designs?