Once again you should do a nice giveaway It will help your channel more then you think even the smaller TH-cam guys do giveaways and they don’t have much but it’s the passion and giving back to the community
This is awesome info as I have very little experience interpetering what my FF is trying to show me or how to configure these options. I fish by kayak and had no idea there were settings that might be useful for someone going slower vs faster. Thanks as always for yet another great tutorial Alan! Keep it up!
These videos are fantastic Alan. Going fishing with Don as well (guide). I have a Hummingbird Helix 5, G2 (I think). It’s been just a depth gauge with water temp so far. The down imaging is nice too. Going to be using your tips for sure next time I’m out. Hopefully I can use it to get on more fish.
Great information and helps with clearing up some questions. I do not get many arches so look forward to a video on adjusting the transducer. I purchased the boat from original owner and is 6 years old. I have HD/7 Lowerance. I also had to add a Pilot 1 in order to keep the satelite signal from being interupted by the windshield frame of the boat. This was a mystery until i spent time on the phone with tech support at Lowrance.
First make sure the unit is updated to current software. Depends on boat and placement of the transducer. I've done many boats in my life and if it's not showing archs you need to lift the back of the transducer up about a 1/4" at time until it archs. If its an aluminum boat feel the bottom of the boat on the back and if there is a ridge it will have turbalance and won't read. JB weld in front ducer will fix the problem
Thank you Alan for uploading such great videos. I have watched most of them and have learned so much. The 4 part series on setting up your fish finder is awesome. I reset my Lowrance Hook 7 to the suggestion in Part #2. This has worked Great! We fish Lake Oroville and Sacramento River most of the time. While on Lake Oroville I have noticed that if we are against a steep bank (70 Degrees) the “Depth Number” is different than the Graft Number, sometimes as much as 1/3 off. (200 kh and auto depth setting) Does this have to do with the Cone Angle? Thank you Roy P. Keep up the great Work!
Great content, Alan! These series are really helpful. It would be great if you could break down what you recommend per fishing type. For example, I’m a bass guy, mostly lakes and delta, usually fishing 0-20 deets, occasionally to 40 feet. Realistically I don’t fish deeper than that, and I think that’s true for 95% of bass guys. So what I should get, and use is Downscan, right? If so, what unit or range of units should I get that’s most cost effective, without going to $3000 forward scan units?
Great information Alan. I have a Lowrance Elite 7 with CHIRP that I got at Bucks this spring during there swap meet. Does the software need to be updated? It an older unit without touch screen. Thanks.
It all depends on the depth you are fishing. Sensitivity is so important on your fishfinder. Too low won't see fish but clear screen. Too high washes out screen. You want color from bottom depth to the bottom of the screen and there will be lots clutter and back off slowly until it slightly clears.
I'm liking this series. The problem is, for me, I'm not good with " techy" stuff so when I bought my units, the instructions manuals didn't really help so I was pretty much left to figure it out myself. Anyway, I've found that both units lock up and start and give bizarre depth readings when I get in shallow weedy water in the delta. What causes this? Thank you.
These units when you get into water shallower than two feet they start giving false readings you can turn your sensitivity down to like 20% and it will work fine. When in shallow water and the sensivity is to high it will give false readings
@@AlanFong Yeah like 2000ft, 1573ft etc. It never occurred to me to turn down the sensitivity. I can't wait to try it out this week as I'm retired now and avoid the launch ramps on the weekend
@@JVig77 the only time I’ve personally ever been able to get good info on my electronics while up on step have been from my shoot thru. Maybe Alan can shed more light on that for you. Good luck out there 👍🏻
Your getting turbulence under the transducer common problem. Are you getting archs? If not lift the back of the ducer up about 1/4" and try again. Some boats are hard to get the transducers right especially if its a aluminum boat.
Can you use the the simulator at home to make settings on the fish finder ,and will it stay the same when you turn it off? I realize the settings will have to change when you get on the water
No you have to adjust on the water. On simulator you can adjust to watch on screen but when you turn it off it goes back to regular settings. Do it on the water.
I've got a Garmin EchoMap CHIRP 75 Dv and for the life of me I cant figure out what's wrong with it. From 60 ft of water and up it works and shows all the fish but as soon as I get into 60 ft and deeper it reads no fish at all. I can see the bottom but no fish. I only run the 2D sonar for trolling. I know there are fish there cause we catch them but nothing shows up on the screen. I primarily troll and have fiddled with every setting I know of. Any idea what's going on?
Yes if you don't locate any schools your better off trolling covering more ground. But i would graph over by the dam to see if there schooled up there?
I don’t understand why you slow the scroll speed when going fast. I would think you would cover more ground before seeing what’s under you. Maybe overthinking it. Can you explain the theory behind your thoughts on ping and scroll speed?
You can test this by adjusting your scroll speed, for instance anchor up in the river and turn your speed down and you will see a long line go across the screen and then turn up the scroll speed and you will see it will start to arch if the fish is swimming thru the cone. Everything has to be right to get the perfect arch. Best is to go down stream as slow as boat will go and adjust the scroll speed and you will see. But if your transducer is not set up correctly you won't see any archs at any speed.
I try to explain how to set up fish finders as easy as I can. I can't fish without one as it tells me everything I want to know. But first and most important is setting up the transducer right on the back of the boat.
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I like your videos a lot
thanks I enjoy doing them
Great information sr I’ll like all your videos there been great for me I’ll appreciate it tanks for posting your videos
Thanks and I hope everyone is getting good information and start catching more fish! Need to spread the word so I can get this channel moving!
@@AlanFong i will tank you sr
Once again you should do a nice giveaway It will help your channel more then you think even the smaller TH-cam guys do giveaways and they don’t have much but it’s the passion and giving back to the community
Yes Denise my producer is already looking into it lol
Thank you! Big help!
Glad it helped!
Great info! Been using fish finders for over 25 years, and still learn several great nuggets from your videos. Thanks a ton Alan!
your welcome learning all the time
Great series so far Alan. Lots of info and why you should tips!
Glad you like them! This monday is the down scan video
Good info! Thanks Alan!
Thank u you ou for sharing your knowledge
No problem as I enjoy helping
Awesome job!! Thanks
Our pleasure!
This is awesome info as I have very little experience interpetering what my FF is trying to show me or how to configure these options. I fish by kayak and had no idea there were settings that might be useful for someone going slower vs faster. Thanks as always for yet another great tutorial Alan! Keep it up!
Yes don't matter what your in it works and will show you more if set right
Thanks Again Alan.
Thanks again!
These videos are fantastic Alan. Going fishing with Don as well (guide). I have a Hummingbird Helix 5, G2 (I think). It’s been just a depth gauge with water temp so far. The down imaging is nice too. Going to be using your tips for sure next time I’m out. Hopefully I can use it to get on more fish.
Sounds great!
Thanks Alan. Looking forward to your next series. Do the suspended floating weeds around the delta present as arches on the screen?
No weeds show up as globs on screen. The downscan video is coming out on the 29th this month.
Great information and helps with clearing up some questions. I do not get many arches so look forward to a video on adjusting the transducer. I purchased the boat from original owner and is 6 years old. I have HD/7 Lowerance. I also had to add a Pilot 1 in order to keep the satelite signal from being interupted by the windshield frame of the boat. This was a mystery until i spent time on the phone with tech support at Lowrance.
First make sure the unit is updated to current software. Depends on boat and placement of the transducer. I've done many boats in my life and if it's not showing archs you need to lift the back of the transducer up about a 1/4" at time until it archs. If its an aluminum boat feel the bottom of the boat on the back and if there is a ridge it will have turbalance and won't read. JB weld in front ducer will fix the problem
Thank you Alan for uploading such great videos. I have watched most of them and have learned so much. The 4 part series on setting up your fish finder is awesome. I reset my Lowrance Hook 7 to the suggestion in Part #2. This has worked Great! We fish Lake Oroville and Sacramento River most of the time. While on Lake Oroville I have noticed that if we are against a steep bank (70 Degrees) the “Depth Number” is different than the Graft Number, sometimes as much as 1/3 off. (200 kh and auto depth setting) Does this have to do with the Cone Angle?
Thank you Roy P. Keep up the great Work!
yes sometimes when your right on a steep drop off you could get a different reading because where the cone angle is more on top of the break.
What is the price range on sonars from the cheapest to the most expensive you have at fisherman's Warehouse
usually if you get something good it will start around $400 n Up
Great content, Alan! These series are really helpful. It would be great if you could break down what you recommend per fishing type.
For example, I’m a bass guy, mostly lakes and delta, usually fishing 0-20 deets, occasionally to 40 feet. Realistically I don’t fish deeper than that, and I think that’s true for 95% of bass guys.
So what I should get, and use is Downscan, right? If so, what unit or range of units should I get that’s most cost effective, without going to $3000 forward scan units?
Then I would use high chirp, good for 30ft. If your unit doesn't have chirp I would use 200 khz
Great information Alan. I have a Lowrance Elite 7 with CHIRP that I got at Bucks this spring during there swap meet. Does the software need to be updated? It an older unit without touch screen. Thanks.
yes it needs updating you can bring it into the warehouse and we can do it while you shop
great today, 👍 going to lake Almanor first week of. July, will your kokanee rigs work there?
Almanor? Most people fish for rainbow or browns don't know if there are any koks in there? N for trout n browns I would use speedy shinners or rapalas
I mainly fish Lake Amador for black bass so what are the best settings for me?
It all depends on the depth you are fishing. Sensitivity is so important on your fishfinder. Too low won't see fish but clear screen. Too high washes out screen. You want color from bottom depth to the bottom of the screen and there will be lots clutter and back off slowly until it slightly clears.
Alan, when will you release Part 3 of fish finder 101 ?
August 29th is my down scan video!
@@AlanFong thank you, I've never watched videos this easy to understand.
I'm liking this series. The problem is, for me, I'm not good with " techy" stuff so when I bought my units, the instructions manuals didn't really help so I was pretty much left to figure it out myself. Anyway, I've found that both units lock up and start and give bizarre depth readings when I get in shallow weedy water in the delta. What causes this? Thank you.
These units when you get into water shallower than two feet they start giving false readings you can turn your sensitivity down to like 20% and it will work fine. When in shallow water and the sensivity is to high it will give false readings
@@AlanFong Yeah like 2000ft, 1573ft etc. It never occurred to me to turn down the sensitivity. I can't wait to try it out this week as I'm retired now and avoid the launch ramps on the weekend
If your sounding in over 800ft your should be using a 50khz transducer. Put the sensitivity off auto and probably gonna be set at 80-100%
Thanks for the video. I have an HDS gen three, I lose depth once I’m gong roughly 40+ mph. Thoughts?
Your shoot thru hill transducer in the bilge area is not in the correct spot or has air in between transducer & hull. Assuming you have a shoot thru?
@@corbinwadlow2044 appreciate the reply, it’s a transom mount transducer.
@@JVig77 the only time I’ve personally ever been able to get good info on my electronics while up on step have been from my shoot thru. Maybe Alan can shed more light on that for you. Good luck out there 👍🏻
Your getting turbulence under the transducer common problem. Are you getting archs? If not lift the back of the ducer up about 1/4" and try again. Some boats are hard to get the transducers right especially if its a aluminum boat.
@@AlanFong now that I think about it I’m not getting arches. Lifting the back of the transducer, meaning have it at an angle? Thanks for the reply.
Can you use the the simulator at home to make settings on the fish finder ,and will it stay the same when you turn it off? I realize the settings will have to change when you get on the water
No you have to adjust on the water. On simulator you can adjust to watch on screen but when you turn it off it goes back to regular settings. Do it on the water.
I had a question about fishing for landlock kings with the gitzit. Does that work in the summer time or only winter and fall?
When ever you can find them schooled up it will work any time of the year.
I've got a Garmin EchoMap CHIRP 75 Dv and for the life of me I cant figure out what's wrong with it. From 60 ft of water and up it works and shows all the fish but as soon as I get into 60 ft and deeper it reads no fish at all. I can see the bottom but no fish. I only run the 2D sonar for trolling. I know there are fish there cause we catch them but nothing shows up on the screen. I primarily troll and have fiddled with every setting I know of. Any idea what's going on?
You have to take the sensitivity off of auto and then adjust it. The deeper your in the higher it has to be.
@@AlanFong Ok thanks I'll try that!
Dont see schools of kings at Oroville and I fish it year around. A few here and there. So I troll to cover water.
Yes if you don't locate any schools your better off trolling covering more ground. But i would graph over by the dam to see if there schooled up there?
I don’t understand why you slow the scroll speed when going fast. I would think you would cover more ground before seeing what’s under you. Maybe overthinking it. Can you explain the theory behind your thoughts on ping and scroll speed?
You can test this by adjusting your scroll speed, for instance anchor up in the river and turn your speed down and you will see a long line go across the screen and then turn up the scroll speed and you will see it will start to arch if the fish is swimming thru the cone. Everything has to be right to get the perfect arch. Best is to go down stream as slow as boat will go and adjust the scroll speed and you will see. But if your transducer is not set up correctly you won't see any archs at any speed.
All fish finder pull down screen is hard to use and confuse.
I try to explain how to set up fish finders as easy as I can. I can't fish without one as it tells me everything I want to know. But first and most important is setting up the transducer right on the back of the boat.