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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มี.ค. 2021
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A follow-up to my last video on shooting HP5 at night in Las Vegas. This is how I used a compensating method of development with Kodak HC110 to handle the bright light and high-contrast scenes in Las Vegas at night.
Las Vegas Video - • Ilford hp5 Film - Shoo...
How I develop film normally - • Black and white film d...
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Development:
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Ilford HP5 (shot at iso 160): Developed in compensating HC110
Solution A : 20ml Concentrate / 800 ml water
- Develop for 1 1/2 min: Agitate 20 inversions for the first minute - Let sit for 30 seconds
Solution B : 5ml Concentrate / 900 ml water (I mix and dump 50-100ml)
- Develop for 8 1/2 min: Agitate 10 inversions for the first 30sec - Then agitate 4 inversions every minute
Stop - Fix - Rinse - Dry as you normally would
Be amazed by your beautiful negatives :)
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Relevant Links:
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Ilford HP5 Film - adorama.rfvk.net/9bgvQ
HC110 Film Developer - adorama.rfvk.net/jWWym5
Book - The Art of Photography - amzn.to/3eB1u1K
Stainless steel black and white film developing tank - amzn.to/36nTPyQ
Kodak Photo Flo - amzn.to/39vytS5
Monitoring silver levels in your fixer - AG Test Strips - amzn.to/2MyzW14
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Go to film photography setup //
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Hasselblad 500 CM - ebay.us/I76k2J
120mm CF f-4 Makro - ebay.us/gX4UVm
80mm CF 2.8 - ebay.us/BRBAuT
50mm CFE f-4 - ebay.us/rcJhiz
Go to film - adorama.rfvk.net/9bgvQ
Favorite Gear Back Pack - amzn.to/3c8iFET
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Go to digital camera setup //
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Canon R5 - amzn.to/35FUX0r
Canon 35mm f1.4 L ii - amzn.to/3ioIBPl
Canon 50mm f1.2 RF - amzn.to/2N47Hax
Canon 85mm f1.2 - amzn.to/38PaH34
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Thank you so much for watching!
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#distphotofilm #darkroom - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Really appreciate how you break things down, point to your notes, discuss how it might relate to other peoples workflow, and share the technical parts oh how it affects the film. Thanks for putting these videos out!
Thank you! Really learning as I go here and really appreciate the feedback!
I gave this a go and just pulled it off the reel and POW! I’ve shot and processed a mile of HP5+ as well. This was my recent regular practice printing, don’t know why I haven’t explored it with my Mac-n-cheese film stock? These are gonna print bangers!
Awesome to hear!!!
Great work! Thanks for this video!
Your welcome! Thank you!
Great video keep up the good work!
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your technique. Those negs look really sweet!
Your welcome! Thanks for watching 👍
Thank you! This helps a lot and totally makes sense. I am a fan of stand development for high contrast scenes. This method works especially well with low speed t-grain films. I never had problems with uneven development but I am using the big Jobo 2520 Multi Tank because of the bigger reels.
Glad to hear! The Jobo tanks are really nice!
Really intersting. Have Not tried shooting bnw at Night but i definetely will. This developing method looks amazing.
Thanks a lot for sharing your ideas and Workflow
Thanks for watching!
Good video. Thank you.
Thank you!
I got around to shooting the exact same scene of Montreal city lights over the Lachine Canal with same camera, HP5 film, same aperture and times, and developed with regular HC-110 dilution B (roughly 1:30). It's not that different than the two-step development, the bright lights maybe restrained a bit and a bit less contrast. Will try with less agitation in the second, dilute developer and see if that holds the highlights back more. Always fun to try new methods however it comes out!
I get a huge difference in highlight compensation. I would have guessed in the original image you used a normal dilution B. But not sure if the contrast was changed much. My highlights of similar scenes do not have blown highlights.
You could also dilute the second developer further and or go Down to 1min 15 sec with the first developer should give significant compensation over normal development.
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC As mentioned, for the two stage trial I used your suggested dilutions of 1:40 and 1:200, whereas Barnbaum used 1:10 and 1:45. Dilution B is 1:31 (I use 1/30) so almost same as your first stage.
Interesting :-) And thank you :-)
Your welcome!
Thank you.
Your welcome!
Super cool - thanks for making this. Would love to see a few comparisons of what it looks like as you vary the time/dilutions as you mentioned at the end. Also would love to know when you get this figured out for the Delta!
I have been working on it... Have a roll of Delta I need to get in and develop and should give me some good insight as to times / dilution. I will keep ya posted!
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC Looking forward to it. Your darkroom videos have been a huge help in getting me started.
Cool! I've done stand dev and basic compensating dev but not a two part process. So far I've gotten very even development doing stand with Rodinal. I do 1 minute at the top, and 1 minute halfway through. At the very end of the hour I do 30 seconds more, sit for 1 minute and then drain
That is pretty close to exactly how I have done it 👍
:-) I have noticed that Rodinal is much better at stand than HC-110. I did recent testing of Ansel Adams style compensating development with HC-110 vs Rodinal stand and was surprised to see far more haloing from the HC-110 the the full stand in Rodinal
I might give this a try for Imagelink FS or Copex Rapid microfilms... Terry
Hope it works for you! please let me know how it goes!
I gave this a shot and got some cool results! As far as the dilutions, will it scale down to 500ml? For my first attempt, I ended up using your original dilutions but just poured 500ml into my jobo tank.
You can try it. The minimum developer for a roll of 120 is 5ml I believe... So the more dilute solution would be under that.
If the developer fully exhausts in the 2nd solution not the end of the world - you will just have greater compensation of the highlights (and maybe slight in the shadows). So you might want to test it out on something not so important. I would bracket with more exposure on a few frames and note it to see what is going on in not only the highlights, but also the shadows.
Let me know how it goes!
Thanks for the video. Very interesting!!!! I would like to use this technique with some Foma films. How did you get the times? Did you use the info in the darkroom cookbook or just proving?
I got the technique and the times from The Art of Photography by Bruce Barnbaum... Great book.
I personally would start with these times for any new 400 speed films and test it a bit... Slower films prob dial it back 20 - 25%. (total time... Adjust each side For example if 2 min + 8 min = 10 min total / then try 25% less = 1.5 min and 6 min) should be in the ball park. Also give an extra stop of exposure maybe a tad more.
If you need more contrast give it 10 - 15 sec more in the first bath. if less contrast is needed 10 - 15 sec less in the first and or reduce agitation in the second bath to every other minute... or go to semi- stand dev for second bath and even more dilute....
Lots of variables but pretty flexible.
Still need to work out Delta 3200 but it was being a bit difficult. I have some rolls waiting to be developed....
Hope that helps a bit!
I really recommend Bruce Barnbaum's book it is one of the best I have on Photography overall and specifically Black and white film, process, technique, etc....
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC Thanks for the message, I will write down those notes.
I do have the "darkroom cookbook" at home but I did not read it entirely. I will try to get my hands on that book from Bruce Barnbaum. The most difficulty I can see, as you said, It is the skill to do It at dark, those 1'15" - 1'30" can be challenging. I do have a Jobo processor with lift but I am not sure if the machine would be faster with those times for the first concentrarte solution. Few years ago I found a book, similar to the cookbook, called "Ilford manual of photohraphy" from the 50's with 450 pages of darkroom data that has been very useful to me as well, It is plenty of fórmulas and thechniques. Lovelly dark room. Regards.
@@albertogarcia1386 I have a Jobo as well and love it but for compensating type development I usually default to hand agitation as the constant agitation of the Jobo builds up contrast very fast ( and very nicely ) but in a high contrast scene this might not be what you want. For compensating development you typically use reduced agitation and higher dilution of chemicals.
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC I found the book "The Art of Photography by Bruce Barnbaum", it is not easy to find here in Europe but I will try to get it somehow. Thanks again.
Dear Matthew,
I seldom photograph in direct sunlight's high contrast (mostly handholding under overcast sky) and even less in ultrahigh contrast as it's the case in night photography including sources of electric light: reduced or minimal agitation for compensating development indeed becomes important in those cases. I think you've read the 2010 apug/photrio thread on the subject, where there are interesting posts about how that type of development has evolved to use the benefits of Pyrocat-HD: if you have read it, possibly some of your readers may be interested. Thanks for your video.
I probabally have but do not recall, I will search and take a look. Phototrio is an amazing website and resource! Thanks for watching!
buenos dias, yo utlizo hc-110 dilucion B 1+31 tengo una duda tengo una cuba de 590cc cual seria las propociones de dichos baños para prepara solucion A y solucion B gracias y un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA
I would start with what I described and multiply the numbers by .75 And then discard 10ml in the first bat and 110ml in the second. That should be a good starting point and then adjust as needed. Cheers
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC gracias muy amable lo probare un saludo.
Hi, I was reading the same book "The Art of Photography" and I was looking for a better explanation. This Video is great. Do you have compensating recipes for other developers?
Thanks a lot.
Your welcome! The part that confused me was that HC110 has a Concentrate and a “stock dilution” I believe in the book he is going off the stock solution dilutions… I just dilute direct from concentrate and it makes it more simple to wrap my head around. But glad it helped!
This has been my main method of compensation if really high contrast. In the past I have used intermittent agitation with pyrocat HD and that has worked fairly well too. (Agitate 1st minute and then every 3-5 minutes the rest of development time)
You could also look into SLIMT development as well.That seemed to have good results as well. Been a while since I have tried it and plan to explore it more.
I also have always wanted to try D-23 diluted how Ansley Adams did it… Just never have but is probably a great method as well.
After watching your video, I made some compensating developments using xtol with different dilutions in the same bath. Negatives looks promising. When I will scan them , I will know more . 🎉 Thanks
@@gurhanpekuz1813 Awesome, let us know the results and the dilutions used when you can!
I actually went out and bought "The Art of Photography" book which so far has been an interesting read. Looking forward to trying compensating development in the very near future.
I read it for the first time about 8 years ago and have always felt it is something ALL photographers should read. Maybe not the technical darkroom stuff but his thoughts on composition, approach etc... are really valuable 👍
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC Although I'm only to the "Color" chapter, I've like what I've read so far. It's making me think a lot about my images but more on the contrast side than anything else. My images are somewhat dark and for lack of better a better word "dramatic." I need once again examine my images...maybe they don't need to be so dark. Keep up the great work. Honestly, I think your channel has the best darkroom videos out there and hope to see more great content in the future.
@@stevebills2427 I'm reading it now, more like dipping in and out of particular chapters. I might have missed it, but he doesn't appear to discuss split grade printing, although he talks about variable contrast paper. That is a nice way to deal with different contrast areas of a negative that are distributed all over, so hard to dodge and burn. Is that in the book somewhere I haven't found yet?
@@oudviola I'm only 1/3 of the way through the book and haven't come across it yet. I'll reply here if I do.
@@oudviola He might not use that method of printing. Not sure. A lot of traditional printers do not for one reason or another. a lot might have learned with graded paper and for whatever reason do not take advantage of it.
Try DDX stand development
Will give it a look. Thanks!
Thanks, will have to try this. Your first developer is roughly 1:40 I guess (20:800), which is a bit weaker than dilution B, my regular dilution. Instead of sealing and agitating for the first develop, I wonder if I could just spin the reel in my Paterson tank, open, and lift up and down a few times. Then just lift the reel out and move it to a second tank with the dilute developer. Just got the B Barnbaum book, have only dipped in so far!
I think you could totally do that. Give it a shot and let me know how it works. Enjoy the book. Lots of good stuff in there!
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC Thanks. Barnbaum describes two solution compensating dev on p169 (2nd edition) if I understand . He mentions a more concentrated first solution, HC-110 1:10, but for Tri-X. He doesn't seem to give specifics for HP5 so I guess you worked those out. Could be good for bright sunny winter days in scenes with snow, also very high contrast and hard to capture details in snow and say buildings in one exposure.
@@oudviola So the first roll I did I used his dilutions from concentrate... they were quite over developed. then realized HC110 has a stock solution dilution of another 1:3!(or in that ball park).
He references his dilutions from the stock solutions not the concentrate.
Once I adjusted everything for the mistake I came up with my dilutions (which are slightly different to keep it simpler) the film came out brilliantly! Hope that makes sense and helps. I think the HC110 dilutions can get confusing because of this.
Some people still make a diluted stock before the dilution and others just mix directly from concentrate. I have seen it referenced both ways. Hope that helps!
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC Thanks! Oops, I don't think you mentioned how you metered, especially at night. Off the bright lights or the dark sky, with corrections to zone placement...?
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC It worked! Or at least, it developed. I shot some daytime scenes with bright white snow and trees and buildings, they look pretty good. I shot some nighttime city lights, the neg is very thin on those so probably need to expose a bit more. I put the overall scene about 2 stops slower than the light meter, but I didn't use a spot so it did some averaging over the whole thing. But it's a start. BTW, easier than making the second developered with a tiny amount of the HC-110 from the bottle, I just made 150 mls or so extra of the first developer (1:40) and made the second developer by serially diluting that 150 in 600 of water (1:5) giving a total 1:200. If you want 820 mls total of each then need to adjust a bit, but serial dilution is more accurate since the measurement error on 3-5 mls is high unless you have an actual measuring pipet. Thanks, will keep trying!
Compensating development for TMax 400 please. PLEASE.
I will see if I can get my hands on some! To be honest I would prob start with the exact same method bracket a stop each way in 3rd stops and adjust from there!
I achieve the best results with my negatives with D76 1+3
I have never tried that dilution but have heard it gives great results... Dev times might be to long for my patients.. have to give a shot though. Prob worth the wait👍
Tried Diafine? It's an actual compensating developer, 2 part, you would have to try really hard to mess it up.
I have been tempted too but the price to give it a try has kept me away. Maybe I will give it a shot. Have seen real good results from others with it! Thanks!
@@DistinctionPhotoLLC the price really doesn’t matter because the stuff lasts forever. I’ve been using the same developer for over a year. I’ve probably developed 40 rolls of film or more. Per roll it’s cheaper than any developer I’ve ever used
@@FrankWalsh Inwould like to give it a try. Does it work well for normal scenes and pushing film a bit?
It’s great for pushing film, in fact you can push, pull and shoot box speed all on the same roll. It is good for normal and high contrast, I would say it is not great for low contrast, but most b&w looks bad in low contrast in my opinion