Great! Really looking forwards to the video about the development. In general, i (still) really like your content! You`re a very humble presenter and (still) prioritize the content over clicks :P In your last video about large format, you stress the point that in the end, the best way to improve your photography is to use the gear you have. Thats such a great element you included - gear helps you along the way, but in the end its experimenting with what you have - and find out the techniques you like. Compensating development is for sure a good skill to increase the capabilities of your gear and your film! Thanks for good content!
HP5 is a film I tried years ago and then again a few months ago. I just don’t like it to muddy. TRI-X 400 gives me the contrast and the grain I prefer. Even TMX 400 another film I don’t like as much as TRI-X has better contrast. All in my personal taste of course. Love the channel please keep up the good work.
I love Tri-x... Butt me and Kodak had a bit of a falling out after discovering a Kodak logo in the sky of one of my favorite negatives when they had the production problem a few years back. Ruined the image that I can not retake. It is one thing if I screw up the film myself as there are plenty of ways that can happen, so I chose not to have additional issue’s come up if I can help it. I also got a bad batch of Xtol that freshly mixed ruined another roll of images I shot in Big Sur that put me off of Xtol (A developer I really liked) and Kodak. I am slowly going back to Kodak but really love HP5 and it is currently my favorite film for medium format. Totally get why you love Tri-x it is one of the best for sure! Currently trying out 4x5 Trix 320 and am excited to see how it goes!
@@Distphoto I had that same trouble with Kodak. I complained to BH where I bought the film and too Kodak and they both sent me new film. Lucky for me the two roles I shot were testing some long exposure ideas so didn’t hurt anything important. When it stops raining someday I have four rolls of Delta 100 to try out.
I’ve never tried compensating development, but I’ve had good results with HP5 and stand development for controlling contrast. I mostly use it when I’ve been shooting with the Holga under differing lighting conditions on the same roll. I’ll be interested to see your follow up video on the process.
I have used stand development a few times with pretty good results. However, it does make me a little nervous as to how even the development will be.. The reason I like this method is you get the compensation but you keep a normal agitation schedule.
There is grain, but it is well contained and less than a normal development with HP5 in my opinion. Mostly because of the pull process on the film. You could use this development with finer grain films for sure!
@@Distphoto Ok I'll try this with my next roll of HP5. What are the recommended "concentrated" and "dilute" developer solutions? I use HC-110 these days so it's on hand.
I have a question regarding your metering for long exposure, would you try and find middle grey still and meter for that or would you meter more for the shadows?
For these I used a spot meter and metered for the shadows and the mid tones fell perfectly. The highlights were way overexposed in a traditional sense. Especially with the long exposure times adding a contrast increase. There was a speed loss but I had tested for it and metered at an iso of 160 on HP5 film. The development contained the highlights nicely while still giving good contrast throughout. If I were to do this with the prism meter or any camera average incident meter I would take a reading biased toward the shadows and then maybe bracket with additional exposure. Hope that helps!
I've done film speed tests on Delta 3200, but the results were inconclusive. In other words, 1600 ISO gave slightly better results , but anything lower gave poor results. The film seems to have designed to be shot at speed or one stop slower. If you find different results, let us know. It would be helpful.
I have had good results between 1250 and 1600 developed in Xtol or D76. I have some really nice prints made with this film. have not been using it much lately though. Got the HP5 for everything bug 😁
Great images , that development method sounds interesting. Hard work perhaps! As it happens I just developed a roll of hp5 with night shots and I must say a few of the shots were Stella Liked and subscribed
I love it! These pictures are amazing. Thank you so much for sharing your method 🙏
Of course, Thank you!
Fantastic contrast in your images. Excellent, brilliant work....
Thank You!
Beautiful results. Nice compositions.
Many thanks!
Wowwww this shots!! Love!
Thanks!!!
wonderful pictures
Thank you!
Really loved this!! Reallllly cool images too :-)
Thanks so much! 😊
Great! Really looking forwards to the video about the development. In general, i (still) really like your content! You`re a very humble presenter and (still) prioritize the content over clicks :P In your last video about large format, you stress the point that in the end, the best way to improve your photography is to use the gear you have. Thats such a great element you included - gear helps you along the way, but in the end its experimenting with what you have - and find out the techniques you like. Compensating development is for sure a good skill to increase the capabilities of your gear and your film! Thanks for good content!
Your welcome. Thank you!
Really amazing. I am so interested in your developing method. Have Not yet shot bnw at Night but it Looks awesome.
Thank you! Am working on the development video and hope to have it done next!
Wow just wow
Thank you!
HP5 is a film I tried years ago and then again a few months ago. I just don’t like it to muddy. TRI-X 400 gives me the contrast and the grain I prefer. Even TMX 400 another film I don’t like as much as TRI-X has better contrast. All in my personal taste of course. Love the channel please keep up the good work.
I love Tri-x... Butt me and Kodak had a bit of a falling out after discovering a Kodak logo in the sky of one of my favorite negatives when they had the production problem a few years back. Ruined the image that I can not retake. It is one thing if I screw up the film myself as there are plenty of ways that can happen, so I chose not to have additional issue’s come up if I can help it. I also got a bad batch of Xtol that freshly mixed ruined another roll of images I shot in Big Sur that put me off of Xtol (A developer I really liked) and Kodak.
I am slowly going back to Kodak but really love HP5 and it is currently my favorite film for medium format. Totally get why you love Tri-x it is one of the best for sure! Currently trying out 4x5 Trix 320 and am excited to see how it goes!
@@Distphoto I had that same trouble with Kodak. I complained to BH where I bought the film and too Kodak and they both sent me new film. Lucky for me the two roles I shot were testing some long exposure ideas so didn’t hurt anything important. When it stops raining someday I have four rolls of Delta 100 to try out.
I’ve never tried compensating development, but I’ve had good results with HP5 and stand development for controlling contrast. I mostly use it when I’ve been shooting with the Holga under differing lighting conditions on the same roll. I’ll be interested to see your follow up video on the process.
I have used stand development a few times with pretty good results. However, it does make me a little nervous as to how even the development will be.. The reason I like this method is you get the compensation but you keep a normal agitation schedule.
Nice images, the method worked well. How grainy is the film enlarged?
There is grain, but it is well contained and less than a normal development with HP5 in my opinion. Mostly because of the pull process on the film.
You could use this development with finer grain films for sure!
@@Distphoto Ok I'll try this with my next roll of HP5. What are the recommended "concentrated" and "dilute" developer solutions? I use HC-110 these days so it's on hand.
I have a question regarding your metering for long exposure, would you try and find middle grey still and meter for that or would you meter more for the shadows?
For these I used a spot meter and metered for the shadows and the mid tones fell perfectly. The highlights were way overexposed in a traditional sense. Especially with the long exposure times adding a contrast increase. There was a speed loss but I had tested for it and metered at an iso of 160 on HP5 film. The development contained the highlights nicely while still giving good contrast throughout.
If I were to do this with the prism meter or any camera average incident meter I would take a reading biased toward the shadows and then maybe bracket with additional exposure. Hope that helps!
@@Distphoto thanks for the tips! I love your channel
@@MrReggieboons No prob! Thank you!
I've done film speed tests on Delta 3200, but the results were inconclusive. In other words, 1600 ISO gave slightly better results , but anything lower gave poor results. The film seems to have designed to be shot at speed or one stop slower. If you find different results, let us know. It would be helpful.
I have had good results between 1250 and 1600 developed in Xtol or D76. I have some really nice prints made with this film. have not been using it much lately though. Got the HP5 for everything bug 😁
Great images , that development method sounds interesting. Hard work perhaps! As it happens I just developed a roll of hp5 with night shots and I must say a few of the shots were Stella
Liked and subscribed
Thank you!
So i´m abo 900! DE NADA ; )