The images I got with these Ilford Films and Rodinal. Not my normal combo!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2022
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EQUIPMENT USED IN THIS VIDEO
CAMERA - Yashica Mat124G
FILM -
DEVELOPER -
STOP & FIX - ILFORD/FOTOSPEED
PRODUCTION GEAR
CANON 6D, GOPRO 7 BLACK, Gopro 10 Black, TASCAM DR10L MIC, SENHEISSER SHOTGUN MIC,
NEEWER LED PANELS, GVM COLOUR PANELS, Valoi 360 Film Holder System for scanes, Zeapon Micro 2 Motor Slider,
Editing - FCP, PHOTOSHOP, LIGHTROOM,
ABOUT MY VIDEOS
If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.
MUSIC CREDITING
TH-cam Studio Music - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
In my experience in using Rodinal for the last 40 plus years, I find the weaker the dilution the less grain is produced. I think running any film in a strong Rodinal dilution of 25:1 would produce grain like snowballs. Try running your films at the strongest dilution of 50:1 at a minimum. When using Rodinal with films like Ilford HP5 Plus and FP4 Plus I'm running them at a dilution of 75:1 or 87:1. The development time is anywhere from 12 to 15 minutes. Try it you might like the results. But I've never experienced accentuated grain with weaker dilutions. As a matter of fact using Rodinal with medium speed films is the "secret sauce" for excellent results.
Totally agree! If you don't like grain, don't use Rodinal with Ilford films.
This is quite true, especially with the HP5 plus and in 135 where the grain is ugly. FP4 in 120 in rodinal both 1/25 and 1/50 is my favorite combination and the grain is quite contained and for my taste nice
It's less grainy at high dilutions because of two things: it has lower pH so less grain clumping and it exhausts faster in the highlights so again less grain clumping :)
My experience is that Rodinal is a better friend to slow films than fast ones. Over the years, I've tried Rodinal with the likes of Tri-X and HP5 at all kinds of dilutions and times and the results have invariably been horrid. Horrible, grimy grain and not the nice sandy grain I get with HC-110 or D-76.
On slower films, however, Rodinal works like a charm. I developed an old roll of APX 100 (the proper old Agfa stuff, not the rebadged modern emulsion) and it came out amazing. Likewise Pan F. Beautiful thick inky blacks and incredible sharpness.
I was going to comment the same, I've found greatly reduced grain with rodinal in 1:50 dilution vs 1:25 dilution. It's strange stuff but it's easily made at home and I love the contrast.
I've been using Rodinal at 1 to 100 for 1 hour as a stand developer ... 2 twists at 30 min ... works very nice with most films :)
Giving the naked photographer a run for his money 😃 My goto film has been fp4+ with rodinal 1:100 stand developing. Love that combo. Now I have one roll of Tmax400 to test that I shoot as iso1600 and see how it'll do with stand developing.
I miss that guys old intro.
8:03 “It will go brown. It will look like you’ve got the runs after a curry.” Hilarious 😆 💩
Love the dude you talked to!!! I love Rodinal!!! Here in the US where I live, I have to adjust my times because it's in the 70s F in my basement!!! I just do stand development because I' lazy!!!
I use Rodinal at 1:50 because I find the results to have less grain than at 1:25. For finer grain, I prefer Ilford DDX or even D-76 at 1:1.
It's so good you show the negs, discuss density and things. It's often missed by content creators who have always scanned (or paid someone else to scan). Cheers.
The PanF shots were crispy sharp! Wow!
HP 5 + Perceptol + Hasselblad = 👍👍😀
It is always exciting to learn new techniques. Thank you
RS. Canada
Get you a little room A/C unit for the sheed. Then get a camper heater for it in the winter.
Next investment for your darkroom.....heat and air conditioning! Loved the intro....LOL
I use Rodinal and my bottle dates back to 2017 and works fine, I just bought a new bottle it lasts forever.
Super Dog and good video! Thanks.
Great fun
So, I was in a conversation with an old timer. Whom used rodinal as a paper developer.
And I was looking it up and found only 1 video about it. And a few internet questions. However since Rodinal is around for a 100+ years I thought there would be more info about it.
So maybe something for a future video.
I use it with Tri-x
great video so true about pulling buildings down i live in south london and loads of pubs have shut been trying to get photos of them before they go.
Great video Roger, you are very good. thanks Robby.
Thank you kindly
Love this video Roger defiantly taught me alot about rodinal which is a developer that I use and just need to keep going and get good results really loved the abandoned boat shot
Cool! I watched the beginning several times, I laughed a lot, my stomach hurts!!! I found out who was parodied))
Love that intro, Roger 🤣
Have found Rodinal good for semi stand development - tried in last night and Ferrania P30 - about an hour - great.
Yes it is my go to for stand (510 Pyro I do semi stand)
Fantastic channel. Really enjoy seeing all the film photography content!
Thanks Kyle
Those boat shots look great! I'm jealous because all of the docks near me are gated off and I can't get anywhere near the boats
I'm sure you could get permission to take Photographs. I think we all wish we had scenes that others have.
Really great video and explained well the film and development etc. I love film. I don’t shoot digital anymore.
It's hard work trying to keep your chemicals cool 😎
tell me about it!
If you’re going to steal my schtick then I’ll just shave my head and steal yours!
I use Fomapan 100 (35mm bulk loaded) and Rodinal. Can't be cheeper ! I bought 5 rolls of Fomapan 400 medium to give a try...Will develop in Rodinal as well
My tip for Fomapan 400 is to shoot it at 250 (its real speed). If you shoot it at 400, then push it while developing.
@@stratocactus thanks for the tip. I usually shoot Fomapan 100 at 50 to keep details in the shadows and cut the development time by 20% to keep some details in the highlights. So i intended to shoot fomapan 400 at 200 and keep the same method...but i might try 250 as you said and develop accordingly for the first roll and see how it comes.
@@michelk5 Fomapan 400 @250 in Rodinal 1:50 for 11 min is the sweet spot for me :)
Keep us updated over de selflife of the Rodinal Adox. 👍
It won't last that long, I'll use it before then
Rodinal: acutance and the appearance of grain are affected by dilution.
My experience is Kodak and Ilford developer times are spot on for their developers and films. If you stray, run some test frames . I have a test subject with deep detail blacks and textured whites for repeatable tests. Print with no burn and dodge on #2 paper.
Also shelf life of rodinal is 10 years. I did careful tests of my test subject above using a 4 oz bottle over the whole time span . It ran 1993 to 2003.
Thats a really good idea to have a solid test subject that you can refer too for various combos! I do similar but usually use items in the home with white, black and various colours! Not consistent as your regular set up! Like that.
Ilfosol-3 has been my go-to developer for the last year or so, but I'll be running out soon, so I may try Rodinal after seeing this. We're going to Scotland on holiday in a couple weeks and I want to make sure I have fresh developer.
Wonderful video! I enjoy shooting Ilford XP2 as you can freely change the ISO from 50-800 and it can be changed from one frame to another with no special processing. I develop it in Ilford Ilfosol3 with wonderful results. I’d love to see you tear out XP2 in this way!
Like others have said, greater dilution for grain reduction. My goto dilution is 1in50, which gives times of 12 minutes for Pan-F, 18 mins for Rollei Retro (Agfa APX) 100 ASA, and 16 mins for Ilford Delta 100 ASA. Your results with the faster emulsions (HP5 & Tri-X) reinforce my decision to not use this combination.
For 35mm and faster films, where grain could be a problem, try Microphen.
Those Ilford films were named to give an idea of the speed. Pan-F = Panchromatic Fine, the original before faster emulsions became available; FP4 Fine Panchromatic, iteration four; HP5 Hypersensitive Panchomatic, iteration five.
Great video, Roger. Lots of great info. Sounds like you need a portable air conditioner . Stay cool. KB
Cheers Ken. Yes I need a cooler for the summer. Usually I just go in there in the evening
@The Naked Photographer😂😂😂
Ilfosol 3 is my main developer, I use it to develop FP4+, HP5+ and Acros II. But I always have some Rodinal at hand. It has a long shelf life and there are much more dilutions known.
I've never used ilfosol 3. Must have a go some time Uwe
Nice video Roger ! I've noticed your not using the 4x5 camera very often . It would be nice to see some more LF
Twin Lenses always draw people's eye and they always want to chat you up about them
Next time you get the rodinal itch. Try stand developing kentmere 400 shot at 1600. 1:100 2 hours. 10 Gentle inversions at the beginning. Half way through 3 inversions. It’s grainy but super pleasing look in my opinion
interesting
Know what you mean about the heat - I'm having real problems keeping my ID-11 at 20c You were comparing the Ilford range of films there and you got me to thinking: Back in the 80's when Tri-X was king, along came Tmax and changed the world, pretty much. Fast forward 30 odd years, I wonder if we'll ever again see such an advance in technology come along for film. Great video mate, glad to see you're still ok.
I live in Dallas Texas, where the temperatures are always "above normal. Summers here are hell 90°F -105°F so winter is the only time there is any hope of properly developing anything. Nearly impossible to keep chemistry at 68°F:(20°C). The forecast for Feb 21 is 77°F - 25 degrees above normal". So imagine what summer will be like... digital is a better option.
I have always loved it for slow fine 35mm films upto 125iso at 1:100. Fomapan 100 and old Panatomic X. In 120 any B&W film. 6x9 Fomapan 100 my Fuji GW690 = fantastic. In South Australia when you open the door and it’s 46c outside, every summer, you just turn around and lay down.
I have a couple of bulk rolls of HP5 in 35mm. The only time it's an issue developing with Rodinal is using that combo with my half frame camera. When enlarging half frame the grain looks like bricks.
I developed five rolls todays, three of which were colour so, to combat the curling, had the shower running for a bit, windows closed etc. Came out looking like I'd just gone for a run, sweating like a pig.
I am most definitely NOT built for these temperatures. Haven't even considered setting up the spare room for printing.
Ha ha glad it's cooled down
Some very nice tones, Roger. I am absolutely sure that B&W films give their best under proper sunny conditions, regardless of the exposure setor the camera f. It is very difficult to dig a wide range of tones out of an emulsion under the usual grey and flat UK skies. Take care in this crazy heat.
I had pretty good results with flat grey sky with FP4 at 200 (120 film) in Rodinal 1/25. I live in France on the other side of the channel and the weather is very UK-like. Grey flat skies 90% of the year. IMO pushing film under flat light helps a lot.
@@stratocactus Pushing film works if the luminance range of the scene falls within the linear portion of a films density curve, otherwise all you get is shadows without detail and texture and overnight or blown highlights. Under a flat grey sky the luminance range of most typical scenes fall within 4 stops, in which case a moderate push of the film is fine, otherwise you will get that typical high contrast image with a shortened scale.
@@lensman5762 yup I know. Hence why I push around 1 stop under flat grey/white skies.
It's not just the massive dev chart that gives 6min for hp5plus in Rodinal 1+25, Ilford's official datasheet says the same. Interestingly, darkroom solutions gives contradicting times, either 6min or 8min.
It does. I checked that also.
Shoutout to Naked Photographer haha
I've never used it, but I've often seen many horrible results with Rodinal and Ilford HP5 Plus combo. I prefer to use XTol or Adox XT-3, which works perfectly with Ilford HP5 Plus. But Rodinal and Ilford HP5 Plus often look like a waste of film to me. And Ilford HP5 Plus is an excellent film!
Be careful out there dude, wear a hat! Great vlog as usual.
Is that the "Naked Photographer", or, the "Knackered Photographer"?!! :) :P :P I think with any developer that's going to give you a bit of grain in the film, you're better off shooting 120 as grain really doesn't look so good in 35mm. Unless, of course, you're looking for that coarse look in your pics.
Oddly enough, I never get that pleasant grain from HP5 with stock D76. Good for landscapes but kinda sucks when you want a bit of grit on the street shots
0:03 ...uhh...well... uhm...I guess that in tough economic times you gotta do what you gotta do to please your subs.
I'm just wondering if your Patreon subs get the "full Monty"?
Seriously though, three of my favorite films. I especially like the 1940's look of the Pan type films, although FP-4 is very close. There is something about those glowing whites and rich black that speak to me. Then again, I also like film noir.
Edit: I was so busy being cute that I forgot to mention the nice bit with Mark (as an American, I really liked the flag patch), and the coincidence with the boat.
I wondered how long it would take someone from the US to mention Marks shirt
Great video though most went over my head as a newbie, what B&W Film would you recommend for a newbie who will be sending his films off to be processed?
Ilford FP4, HP5 I would say. Or to save a few pennies Foma 100, 400
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks, I usually get a good deal on Ilford at WEX plus save on P&P by picking it up on Manchester when I’m there shooting anyway. I think I’ve got a roll of FP4 either ready for the lab or in one of my Minolta SLR’s, I’ve used HP5 before but it was ruined by my own stupidity, not checking it was correctly loaded so came out blank
which bulb do you use in the enlarger?
75w
My Durst M601 arrived, I'm virtually up and running. I now have a self developed 120 roll, shot on my Mamiya 6 x 4.5 and just been out with my Minolta Autocord TLR so have a second roll of 120 to develop, it is 6x6 format like your Yashica. Both films Fomapan 200 so will see how it goes. Several bodies with 35mm Delta 400 and Fomapan 400 plus a roll of Agfa APX 100 to shoot yet. You should give the boat owner / former photographer a print of him, it might inspire him to shoot film lol. He is right about digital, Canon EOS R mirrorless system & Nikon Z all going to cost plenty plus new lens mounts to make EF and F lenses obsolete, at a guess 😁
Good to hear Baz. I sent that Mark the two digital scans on email
Interestingly the Massive Dev Chart seems to me to have an error. HP5+ in Rodinal 1+25 needs 8 minutes at 320 ISO but only 6 minutes at 400 ISO. That doesn't seem right!
The massive dev chart is mostly user submitted information, so it's not exactly an error, just two different approaches that may have been preferred by two individual users. I'd say the longer dev time may improve the low contrast of hp5 in flat conditions. Extra third stop exposure may be just personal preference for increased shadow detail among other things. Have fun!!
Ilford data sheet also recommends 6 minutes at 1:25. I'm out of hp5 now but when I re stock I need to try 10 mins
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss it's surprising to hear ilford's own recommended time was so far off the mark for you. The negs were definitely thin, although all your scans looked good.
Sounds like 8 mins @320 and 10 mins @ 400 may both work well.
Of course exact development times are dependent on contrast range.
Rodinal is awesome stuff!
At 320 HP5 is slightly overexposed so in makes sense to underdevelop in order to compensate and gain on tonal range.
What if you painted the darkroom a bright white. Would the color reflect light better and make it cooler? Someone correct me if that’s wrong
It's a shed Reggie. On hot days it is like a sauna
David Bailey don’t have ahi on you Roger
😂 he's a legend
What made you choose those different development times and dilusions?
I use 1/25 usually, 1/50 if I want to tame the contrast a bit.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you, its always apreaciated to hear what other People do and why they do it!
Hi Roger, I have a question beside this. Several times I have seen, that you have your darkroom in a wooden gardenhouse. What is about the conditions in wintertime for temerature and especially humidy in regard to rust and mold. Is it a problem ? many greetings from Germany . .
Hey Mathias. The shed has insulation of plastic sheeting and bubble wrap in between the walls to help in winter. I take everything out in winter apart from the enlarger and only a bit of surface rust on the rails which I often strip, clean and oil. A radiator to keep it warm in winter.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you very much for your response and all the best . . . (best things in live are analog (adox films)) 📸
1:04 That's not a channel, it's a tidal river.
Tried to stand dev HP5 in Ilfotec DD-X at 1:100
Nope. DD-X said no.
1+9 at 9 mins is tops for HP5
Not tried 1+25 on DD-X, what would the dev time be?
Before going crazy with diluting a developer try and read the info available for it. These are the minimum amount of stock( concenterate ) developer required to fully develop a roll of film ( either 135, 120 or 4* 4X5 ). HC110>6ml, D76, ID11, Perceptol >> 110ml, Rodinal>10ml and DDX > 50ml. Some people claim that one needs a minimum of 62 ml of DDX concenterate, but I am not convinced. So you could dilute DDX 1+100 but you need to develop your film in 5 liters of working solution. Speciality developers such as 510 Pyro have Pyrogallol as the main developing agent which is an extremley active agent, so dilutions of 1+100 are normal working solutions. The other one that I know of is the lesser known Spur Acurol-N which has a normal dilution ratio of 1+70. HC 110 and Rodinal can be diluted to 1+100 but the minimum amount of concenterate must be present in the working solution.
I had this 10ml minimum rule in my head for years until I tried 5ml (500ml stand 1:100) and saw no difference. That was ages ago though. But yes I read 10ml minimum with Rodinal
Rodinal is almost prehistoric. FX 39 Adox II is a compensating developer, gives sharpest results for modern films.
Yeah that's a very good Dev.
Rodinal is great, you should try it!
😠 @ 6.14... 71 yr.old boring old farts, now that's what I call hate speech 😁
Based upon the intro, guess I’m never going to be a ‘fan.’ 😉