As far as checking your tap depth with the part.... A rule of thumb I've used for the past 51 years as a machinist is to run any pipe tap down till you have 7 threads showing on the tap. It will put you safely in the ballpark. My oil of choice is Moly-Dee. It has a high chlorine content and lots of molybdenum disulfide. It works well on anything. Even a dull tap will cut great. Remember to clean it up afterwards to prevent staining. Good idea about the paint pump. I'll look into that myself. Thanks for the idea!!
I will be doing something similar to a jack I have on a foot pedal operated wood splitter. Recently purchased a air over hydrolic foot pump on sale I want to use on it. Seems like I will need to choose one of the ports direct to the cylinder and seal the others. Seems simple enough. For the amount of wood I burn the splitter I have is enough, just want mine and my sons legs clear of the wood that falls from the press. Thanks for your example of how the jack works and how to tap in.
I modified a 20T jack like that for inverted use by adding an external reservoir and filling the original one to the top. I always thought about using an old pressure washer or power steering pump for this sort of thing. What fun!
Excellent step by step video. Been wanting to make this for years and now I know what I can do with my retired airless. Thank you sir this is on my list of things to do. Jayme
That was the best demo on doing this bottle jack mod. I have seen. that was great. I went with a HF air over hydraulic set up for my homemade press. BUT after going from 12 tons to the air over 20 tons the upper beam bent. I redid it with huge I beam and is a work horse and added a winch with a cable to lift the lower press support with the thick plate in place. I got some 1.5 in or so thick plates from elevator work as press plate that I can now trust to not explode on me. drilled and tapped the press bar for different inserts. added a foot pedal so both hands are free to work with the project.
Thanks for the compliment, and Wow, it sounds like you have your press decked out and ready to work! I have already thought about putting a foot pedal on this mod. And I'm not surpised that 20Tons bent the beam. It looks pretty iffy to me. Thanks for your input.
I like how he said "I turned it on and confirmed that it made the right noise" also amazing video, I wanted to turn my 2 ton bottle jack into a hydraulic press and I was looking for cheap high pressure hydraulic pumps to mod it with.
Air over hydraulic is better than nothing. But my way the jack moves faster, is quieter, was way cheaper, and was infinitely more fun to put together! And I still do have the manual handle for fine or heavy work. But you do make a good point in that air over hydraulic is the obvious conventional approach, and will work every time. Thanks
You could add a check valve at the new base so the pump is not under load. If the pump or line fails a dangerous release will occur. I like the project. Also, try using an engraver to remove loose broken bolts and taps. Been teaching apprentices that for along time now. Stay safe.
Hello. I enjoyed segment 1 of the series. I have been told since I was a kid that a jack would not work upside down. The only explanation was to shut up. Now at last I know why. As a ticket for admission to the show, I would like to offer up some things that have worked well for me over the years. For tapping any tough metal, and especially stainless, mix enough molybdenum disulfide powder(like flour) with a good cutting oil to increase the viscosity enough to cling well to the tap. Yes, it does smell a bit, but the results are worth it. The “Moly” will settle out into a hard cake on the bottom, and require stirring each time. SAE 420 ss @ 42 Rc. After the tap is broken in the hole, I have had very good results with a 1/8” end cutting carbide burr @4200 rpm or more to eat away the core of the tap. Slow hand, as the song says. Many of my npt taps were used for water lines for molds. Experience told me that around seven threads left exposed, will allow a dry seal plug to seat flush, along with nearly any fitting. As a result, nearly all of my pipe taps have a gash ground on one set of threads at that point, just deep enough to show. And again, I thank you for your well presented combination of over the shoulder looks, calm explanation, and marked up graphics.
Awesome video, Im making just a small 2ton manual press.. mainly just to use for press fitting and some blacksmithing. Had thought about converting it to electric with a pump bit didn't know where to begin. Now I do! Thanks for the video
Because the electric pump can only supply 3000psi, where the hand pump can go up to around 10000. And it's already in place, already connected to the reservoir. So eliminating it makes the press weaker. And moving it is wasted effort, as it works just fine where it is Great question, thanks.
Why not just another check valve on the pressure side from the pump at the jack housing your drilling? or right before the gauge, then you don't have to fiddle with another valve.?
Excellent catch. I covered that in the 6-month follow-up video to this one. If you care to check it out. I did just as you're describing I put a check valve between the big valve body and the brake line going to the electric motor. I can't put the valve before the big valve body or else the gauge won't work.
Now that's what I'm talking about! You are a man after my own heart. I am always modifying my tools and machines. I also enjoy curbside shopping and dumpster diving. You did a great job. I am wanting to so this to my Harbor Freight hydraulic press and my manually pumped hydraulic floor jack.
This was very interesting thank you by the way I want to share a hot tip for removing broken taps.... always collect broken tungsten carbide end mills what you can often do is let's just say for conversation sake you have a broken half inch tap and you have a scrap i.e. broken quarter inch carbide End Mill put the part with the busted tap in your case the stainless steel fitting in your mill Vise pick up the dead center of the tap lock your table then run your spindle in reverse and use the busted End Mill to literally chip away at the tap..... safety glasses gloves face shield and some finesse with the downfeed. I like to lock the quill and spindle rigid and then use the knee that is if you have an mill like a Bridgeport and raise the knee to feed the End Mill into the broken tap. The end mill will win and bust away the center and webbing of the broken tap and since you're running in Reverse sometimes the tap will actually back out. Once you get the hang of it it's a very effective technique So look for busted carbide scrap end mills on eBay or at your local Surplus shop and hang on to them for this application once you get the hang of it it works like a champ Of course not every part with a broken tap can be loaded onto a Bridgeport in this manner but when you do have this opportunity it works well You can also use the same approach with three jaw and four jaw chucks or a faceplate in a metal lathe Good luck and keep your cool ideas flowing it's always great to see inventors and Craftsman coming up with new applications of things we find at yard sales and dumpsters and surplus places and repurposing them.
Could you have used an external check valve on the pressure side of the pump rather than a T-Handle valve and have accomplished the goal of isolating the return hand-pump pressure? Just wondering if that could be an automatic action with the intent to not risk forgetting to close the T-Handle and accidentally blow out the 3k psi line.
You are one step ahead of me. I wish I had consulted with you when I was in the design phase, because that's exactly what I ended up doing. I went ahead and left the t valve body there because it's kind of acting as a manifold. But I put a check valve between the t valve and the pump line. Just as you described. So now I never have to close the t valve. Nice input.
@@TheBuildist Perfect...I'm looking to do the same and was just wondering if you had a specific reason as to one or the other... Great Video... and thanks for the reply!
I wish I had someone like you near me, I have an Air over hydraulics bottle jack that has quit working and I can't figure out what's wrong with it. I think it is probably something easy. But my understanding of hydraulics is lacking. I really like your builds. Envious.
I guess I should have paid the money for a proper press with a ram and a portapower pump on the side. The Chinesium 20T press [similar to Harbour Freight] is OK but everything just flops about, the jack is SOOO slow, the jack pump has so much lost motion, an air aided jack is a thought but you need air[Mum doesn't like the noise] but still the best option as they dont make a double action pump, I could modify one of those double action engine hoist rams, I guess the manufactures need to up their game, would cost very little at their scale to make the press much better.
Would be appreciated if u would be kind enough to let me know whether the hydraulic bottle jack u converted was single acting or double acting.And whether we can also converted the hydraulic bottle jack into a hydropneumatic press or not.Thanks.GBU
Excellent vid, thankyou. I want to put in a pressure gauge. Just thinking could the hole be drilled on an angle ? how would an air drive work with the jack upside down as I dont have a hydraulic power pack, the thing is all the sloppy Chinesium cross member can be discarded, I have a screw adjustment too as the jack is upside down
I don't think you could successfully angle drill it. It'll mess up the seal between base and cylinder. I don't know about the air drive working upside down. Sorry.
That very interesting and those cut away drawings answered questions I’ve had most of my life. Really looking forward to simplify converting some jacks to work inverted. I recently picked up the Harbor Freight 12 ton air/hydraulic jack, like new off Craigslist for $40, so I have options.
Those stainless fittings look real similar to the ones on our waterjet. The best stuff ever for cutting that gummy stainless is Sulflow. Stinks to high hell but I've never broken a tap or galled a thread while using it.
Good catch. I wish you had been here you could have saved me some time. If you care to have a look at the 6-month review video, and you'll see that I did in fact put in a check valve. Because that's the obvious solution. That wasn't so obvious to me at the time 😊
Modified a down side up 20 Ton jack that was on sale for $20 from $120. It's an air over hydraulic jack and it worked great too except for the crazy racket. If you don't mind, how have you liked it long term?
I've used it 5 or 6 times since completion. My original concern was that since the reservoir is lower than the electric pump that I might have to reprime the thing after it sits for a couple weeks. That hasn't been the case. Hit the button and you're off to the races, so I love it.
Oh, and I did end up installing a check valve, just to save time and hassle using the manual valve. But it's not DIY, it's a commercial product. I think $20. At 10K psi or higher, I didn't want to find out the hard way if my homemade valve would work right or not.
@@TheBuildist I've found gravity to be predictably reliable as a helper for homemade check valves. One of the many considerations that keeps it interesting.
They're really very tricky! I mentally convert them generally to digital. Still imperial but decimals instead of fractions. But either way you have to think really hard to get them right. I'd like to think that it wards off dementia! Lol
I don't know definitively. I calculated for this 20 ton jack, based on the cross sectional area of the ram, that it would take around, I think 11 or 12 thousand PSI to exert 20 tons of force. As a rule I never pump this one up past about 10,000 on the gage. And I've never needed to.
I was thinking of something similar. I also wanted to have a way to automatically release fluid once your pressing operation was finished. Any ideas on that regard?
That's a good idea, if you can pull it off. The thumb lever I put on the release valve is pretty easy to operate. Perhaps you might find an electric solenoid that could close it when you activate the pump switch and then open it up when you're done.... The solenoid/turning mechanism out of an automatic water cutoff valve would probably work fine. but you'd need another switch to disable the auto feature, so that you can hand pump after you've shut off the pump motor.
Could there be a chance of the base of the pressure area giving out , now you gone in at half thickness ? i guess it would only happen with a flaw in the casting.
There's a thick channel in the casting leading to the place where I drilled. I think it's designed to support putting in a port here. So between the factors that the base is extra thick there, and that I biased the hole upward, away from the very bottom, it should be fine.
I got the same bottle jack. Broke the thing that the finger is on at 13:38. What is that thing called? Looks like a check valve ball retainer or something, to keep the bb from going up into the cylinder pressure chamber when system not under load and unit turnt upside down. I'm about to just make one out of something, but if it's cheap I'd like to order one from somewhere, but I need to know the name of that piece and I can't seem to find a proper parts breakdown. AC Delco 20 ton.
I agree with you: It ought to be called a check ball retainer. But I've never heard of anyone selling individual parts for these jacks. So you may have to fabricate something.
The airless paint sprayer is something I pulled out of the dumpster. The motor worked but it wasn't developing pressure. I had to open up the check valve area and clean out a bunch of dried latex paint and it began working again. So that part was free. And I spent about $40 on various fittings and hoses to do the rest of the process. Obviously they cost two or $300 new. So probably wouldn't make sense to buy one off the shelf for this purpose. But if you came across one for a little or nothing, this might be a good way to repurpose it.
@25:00 - "Brain food" for ANYONE to "TRY" in a similar scenario when working with something that needs to have any further damage minimized as much as possible... .. .. Furthermore; (This really only applies "IF" "Time's-agenda" is not conspiring with "Gravity's-Influence" and trying to make "Peanut Butter" out of.. Well, You get the point!...) It's a very complicated maneuver that requires years of practice to fully accept and appreciate... Throw the whole thing in the NON ENERGY-SAVING freezer over night and go do something else. If it doesn't now effortlessly fall out on it's own; A.) "Way to over crank something knucklehead!" B.) With the assistance of a small picking utensil you should be able to back it out much easier. C.) Worst case scenario: Heat the whole thing up to approximately 3200F degrees and the broken tap will drip right out of the vice! ...Done
questo è un bel filmato e come questo ce ne sono molti altri, il problema è che non sono in lingua italiana e io mi debbo accontentare di vedere lo scorrere delle immagini purtroppo in quanto non "mastico" la lingua ...
Great video! What's the purpose of the valve you added? Does the sprayer pump have a check valve to hold the line pressure when not pumping? Do you have any idea what ton it would be rated at with only 3000psi? How much do you think is created by the jacking circuit?
The integral Jack pump produces around 10k psi, which is way above what the electric pump does. So the valve serves to isolate that high pressure to staying within the jack and not allowing it to backfeed up the electric pump. Based on the internal diameter of the hydraulic cylinder, the electric pump at 3,000 psi produces somewhere in the vicinity of 5.5 tons of down force. Thanks for your input!
Hello sir, I am also from the Philippines, I have a lot of questions regarding hydraulic electric motor pump, bibili rin for thesis, can I contact you if you do not mind?
lol! I've been called "too smart for my own good" once or twice! (Like the time I burned off my eyelashes and eyebrows trying to burn gasoline in a tiki torch.) Good memories... But thanks for your nice compliment!
You can do that, but you lose the ability to hand pump. So for my press, my cylinder would need to be 4 to 5 inches in diameter, to keep up the 20 ton max power. However, it would slow down its speed, due to it taking increased fluid for the ram to move. And you'll need to create a new fluid reservoir, since the current one is in the jack shroud. I'd recommend a car's coolant overflow tank, up above the electric pump. And you'll lose the built-in jackscrew adjustment built into the current jack's ram. So it's easy enough to do, but there will be trade-offs.
Must a check valve at the pump. Maybe watching longer will help. Impatiently isolated in April 2020. Edit: So you went with a regular valve and that works too. A homemade check valve can be a useful skill to share. Excellent project. Oh and I do like my spare arbor press. It's just like my other one except for the colour. Peace.
As far as checking your tap depth with the part.... A rule of thumb I've used for the past 51 years as a machinist is to run any pipe tap down till you have 7 threads showing on the tap. It will put you safely in the ballpark. My oil of choice is Moly-Dee. It has a high chlorine content and lots of molybdenum disulfide. It works well on anything. Even a dull tap will cut great. Remember to clean it up afterwards to prevent staining. Good idea about the paint pump. I'll look into that myself. Thanks for the idea!!
Thanks for the useful tip. I'll use that.
I will be doing something similar to a jack I have on a foot pedal operated wood splitter. Recently purchased a air over hydrolic foot pump on sale I want to use on it. Seems like I will need to choose one of the ports direct to the cylinder and seal the others. Seems simple enough. For the amount of wood I burn the splitter I have is enough, just want mine and my sons legs clear of the wood that falls from the press. Thanks for your example of how the jack works and how to tap in.
I modified a 20T jack like that for inverted use by adding an external reservoir and filling the original one to the top. I always thought about using an old pressure washer or power steering pump for this sort of thing. What fun!
Excellent step by step video. Been wanting to make this for years and now I know what I can do with my retired airless. Thank you sir this is on my list of things to do. Jayme
That was the best demo on doing this bottle jack mod. I have seen. that was great. I went with a HF air over hydraulic set up for my homemade press. BUT after going from 12 tons to the air over 20 tons the upper beam bent. I redid it with huge I beam and is a work horse and added a winch with a cable to lift the lower press support with the thick plate in place. I got some 1.5 in or so thick plates from elevator work as press plate that I can now trust to not explode on me. drilled and tapped the press bar for different inserts. added a foot pedal so both hands are free to work with the project.
Thanks for the compliment, and Wow, it sounds like you have your press decked out and ready to work! I have already thought about putting a foot pedal on this mod. And I'm not surpised that 20Tons bent the beam. It looks pretty iffy to me.
Thanks for your input.
That’s why a 20 ton press is larger and heavier. I recently replaced my 12 ton with a 20 ton.
I like how he said "I turned it on and confirmed that it made the right noise"
also amazing video, I wanted to turn my 2 ton bottle jack into a hydraulic press and I was looking for cheap high pressure hydraulic pumps to mod it with.
Exact same boat here!
better use a Kärcher
HF Air over 20 ton ram. Like 80 bucks and you still have the manual pump handle for "fine tuning" - Bit you still did an outstanding job,
Air over hydraulic is better than nothing. But my way the jack moves faster, is quieter, was way cheaper, and was infinitely more fun to put together!
And I still do have the manual handle for fine or heavy work.
But you do make a good point in that air over hydraulic is the obvious conventional approach, and will work every time.
Thanks
Thats what i did, it actually moves fast AF and you have to be careful not to break whatever you are working on
A check valve is a better option than an isolation valve as you will never forget to turn it on or off
I have a cider press with a foot pedal to pump up the piston. This might work for that.
Brilliant build, this has my last brain cell thinking. Thanks for your time and explanation.
You could add a check valve at the new base so the pump is not under load. If the pump or line fails a dangerous release will occur. I like the project. Also, try using an engraver to remove loose broken bolts and taps. Been teaching apprentices that for along time now. Stay safe.
shortly after the video was filmed I did just that. And it eliminates the need to open and close the manual valve. Thanks for the insight.
Yess!! I thought of that ..
Hello. I enjoyed segment 1 of the series. I have been told since I was a kid that a jack would not work upside down. The only explanation was to shut up. Now at last I know why. As a ticket for admission to the show, I would like to offer up some things that have worked well for me over the years. For tapping any tough metal, and especially stainless, mix enough molybdenum disulfide powder(like flour) with a good cutting oil to increase the viscosity enough to cling well to the tap. Yes, it does smell a bit, but the results are worth it. The “Moly” will settle out into a hard cake on the bottom, and require stirring each time. SAE 420 ss @ 42 Rc.
After the tap is broken in the hole, I have had very good results with a 1/8” end cutting carbide burr @4200 rpm or more to eat away the core of the tap. Slow hand, as the song says. Many of my npt taps were used for water lines for molds. Experience told me that around seven threads left exposed, will allow a dry seal plug to seat flush, along with nearly any fitting. As a result, nearly all of my pipe taps have a gash ground on one set of threads at that point, just deep enough to show.
And again, I thank you for your well presented combination of over the shoulder looks, calm explanation, and marked up graphics.
Thanks for you well-thought out reply! I'll see if I can track down some Molybdenum!
I’m going to add this to my press mod. I have an electric/hydraulic pump that needs a job.
Awesome video, Im making just a small 2ton manual press.. mainly just to use for press fitting and some blacksmithing. Had thought about converting it to electric with a pump bit didn't know where to begin. Now I do! Thanks for the video
Very great video with excellent information and discussion on how to do something like this. Thank you!
Why keep the original hand jack? It would have been easier to remove it and use it for the main pressure hose from the pump or did I miss something?
Because the electric pump can only supply 3000psi, where the hand pump can go up to around 10000. And it's already in place, already connected to the reservoir. So eliminating it makes the press weaker. And moving it is wasted effort, as it works just fine where it is
Great question, thanks.
Excellent description, explanation, and work process!!!!
Great video. Very informative - liked the emphasis on keeping cost low.
Why not just another check valve on the pressure side from the pump at the jack housing your drilling? or right before the gauge, then you don't have to fiddle with another valve.?
Excellent catch. I covered that in the 6-month follow-up video to this one. If you care to check it out. I did just as you're describing I put a check valve between the big valve body and the brake line going to the electric motor. I can't put the valve before the big valve body or else the gauge won't work.
Now that's what I'm talking about! You are a man after my own heart. I am always modifying my tools and machines. I also enjoy curbside shopping and dumpster diving. You did a great job. I am wanting to so this to my Harbor Freight hydraulic press and my manually pumped hydraulic floor jack.
This was very interesting thank you
by the way I want to share a hot tip for removing broken taps.... always collect broken tungsten carbide end mills what you can often do is let's just say for conversation sake you have a broken half inch tap and you have a scrap i.e. broken quarter inch carbide End Mill put the part with the busted tap in your case the stainless steel fitting in your mill Vise pick up the dead center of the tap lock your table then run your spindle in reverse and use the busted End Mill to literally chip away at the tap..... safety glasses gloves face shield and some finesse with the downfeed.
I like to lock the quill and spindle rigid and then use the knee that is if you have an mill like a Bridgeport and raise the knee to feed the End Mill into the broken tap.
The end mill will win and bust away the center and webbing of the broken tap and since you're running in Reverse sometimes the tap will actually back out.
Once you get the hang of it it's a very effective technique
So look for busted carbide scrap end mills on eBay or at your local Surplus shop and hang on to them for this application once you get the hang of it it works like a champ
Of course not every part with a broken tap can be loaded onto a Bridgeport in this manner but when you do have this opportunity it works well
You can also use the same approach with three jaw and four jaw chucks or a faceplate in a metal lathe
Good luck and keep your cool ideas flowing it's always great to see inventors and Craftsman coming up with new applications of things we find at yard sales and dumpsters and surplus places and repurposing them.
Thanks for the kind words and a great tip!
Well done. I love the use of off-the-shelf components/ projects for new purposes. Thanks for the tap trick as well.
It is a beautiful thousand dollars worth solution, even considering the low expenses for the particular case.
Could you have used an external check valve on the pressure side of the pump rather than a T-Handle valve and have accomplished the goal of isolating the return hand-pump pressure? Just wondering if that could be an automatic action with the intent to not risk forgetting to close the T-Handle and accidentally blow out the 3k psi line.
You are one step ahead of me. I wish I had consulted with you when I was in the design phase, because that's exactly what I ended up doing. I went ahead and left the t valve body there because it's kind of acting as a manifold. But I put a check valve between the t valve and the pump line. Just as you described. So now I never have to close the t valve.
Nice input.
@@TheBuildist Perfect...I'm looking to do the same and was just wondering if you had a specific reason as to one or the other... Great Video... and thanks for the reply!
nice vid. next time you snap a tap like that get a carbide end mill made for hardmilling and cut the sucker out.
Cool. Unfortunately, I don't have a manual press either...
I wish I had someone like you near me, I have an Air over hydraulics bottle jack that has quit working and I can't figure out what's wrong with it.
I think it is probably something easy. But my understanding of hydraulics is lacking. I really like your builds. Envious.
Great job with the video and explanation..
I guess I should have paid the money for a proper press with a ram and a portapower pump on the side. The Chinesium 20T press [similar to Harbour Freight] is OK but everything just flops about, the jack is SOOO slow, the jack pump has so much lost motion, an air aided jack is a thought but you need air[Mum doesn't like the noise] but still the best option as they dont make a double action pump, I could modify one of those double action engine hoist rams, I guess the manufactures need to up their game, would cost very little at their scale to make the press much better.
If you happen across an old airless paint sprayer... This is is a dream to use now. I run it 2 or 3 times per week, it works like a charm.
Would be appreciated if u would be kind enough to let me know whether the hydraulic bottle jack u converted was single acting or double acting.And whether we can also converted the hydraulic bottle jack into a hydropneumatic press or not.Thanks.GBU
Excellent vid, thankyou. I want to put in a pressure gauge. Just thinking could the hole be drilled on an angle ? how would an air drive work with the jack upside down as I dont have a hydraulic power pack, the thing is all the sloppy Chinesium cross member can be discarded, I have a screw adjustment too as the jack is upside down
I don't think you could successfully angle drill it. It'll mess up the seal between base and cylinder.
I don't know about the air drive working upside down. Sorry.
That very interesting and those cut away drawings answered questions I’ve had most of my life. Really looking forward to simplify converting some jacks to work inverted. I recently picked up the Harbor Freight 12 ton air/hydraulic jack, like new off Craigslist for $40, so I have options.
Why would someone need an inverted jack? Honest question.
Need to seal the oil filler hole or move it towards the base?
Those stainless fittings look real similar to the ones on our waterjet. The best stuff ever for cutting that gummy stainless is Sulflow. Stinks to high hell but I've never broken a tap or galled a thread while using it.
Great advice! I'll give it a try.
Great job. I myself have been called arrogantly frugal. Okay, more often, a cheap ass. I like how you roll.
To all you cheap asses... I’m ready to receive my training... I am your student.. !!
@@copiercer have you started with dumpster diving 101.. :)
using a Kärcher high pressure cleaner makes much more sense and power / speed
I don't think their pressure is high enough. Have you seen one above 2000 psi?
Great idea Bud.
Never seen a protractor built in to a disk sander before.
This gives me ideas...
fantastic...thank you for sharing.
why you use a manual valve?? its much easyer und secure with a check valve installed direct on the jack housing! greats from germany.
Good catch. I wish you had been here you could have saved me some time. If you care to have a look at the 6-month review video, and you'll see that I did in fact put in a check valve. Because that's the obvious solution. That wasn't so obvious to me at the time 😊
Modified a down side up 20 Ton jack that was on sale for $20 from $120. It's an air over hydraulic jack and it worked great too except for the crazy racket.
If you don't mind, how have you liked it long term?
I've used it 5 or 6 times since completion. My original concern was that since the reservoir is lower than the electric pump that I might have to reprime the thing after it sits for a couple weeks. That hasn't been the case. Hit the button and you're off to the races, so I love it.
Oh, and I did end up installing a check valve, just to save time and hassle using the manual valve. But it's not DIY, it's a commercial product. I think $20. At 10K psi or higher, I didn't want to find out the hard way if my homemade valve would work right or not.
@@TheBuildist I've found gravity to be predictably reliable as a helper for homemade check valves. One of the many considerations that keeps it interesting.
I've got a pain in the brain with these imperial measurment units!
They're really very tricky! I mentally convert them generally to digital. Still imperial but decimals instead of fractions. But either way you have to think really hard to get them right. I'd like to think that it wards off dementia! Lol
Hmm interesting...if only I understood enough to do something similar for a double acting cylinder press in the 150-200 ton range...
You're going to need a bigger paint gun... 🤣
@@TheBuildist probably... I do like the idea of it driving a transfer press though.
Greetings . What is the maximum pressure that any hydraulic jack reaches?
I don't know definitively. I calculated for this 20 ton jack, based on the cross sectional area of the ram, that it would take around, I think 11 or 12 thousand PSI to exert 20 tons of force. As a rule I never pump this one up past about 10,000 on the gage. And I've never needed to.
@@TheBuildistI think your calculations are right
I was thinking of something similar. I also wanted to have a way to automatically release fluid once your pressing operation was finished. Any ideas on that regard?
That's a good idea, if you can pull it off. The thumb lever I put on the release valve is pretty easy to operate. Perhaps you might find an electric solenoid that could close it when you activate the pump switch and then open it up when you're done.... The solenoid/turning mechanism out of an automatic water cutoff valve would probably work fine. but you'd need another switch to disable the auto feature, so that you can hand pump after you've shut off the pump motor.
Fun to watch👍👍👍👍👍great planning👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Could there be a chance of the base of the pressure area giving out , now you gone in at half thickness ? i guess it would only happen with a flaw in the casting.
There's a thick channel in the casting leading to the place where I drilled. I think it's designed to support putting in a port here. So between the factors that the base is extra thick there, and that I biased the hole upward, away from the very bottom, it should be fine.
I got the same bottle jack. Broke the thing that the finger is on at 13:38. What is that thing called? Looks like a check valve ball retainer or something, to keep the bb from going up into the cylinder pressure chamber when system not under load and unit turnt upside down. I'm about to just make one out of something, but if it's cheap I'd like to order one from somewhere, but I need to know the name of that piece and I can't seem to find a proper parts breakdown. AC Delco 20 ton.
I agree with you: It ought to be called a check ball retainer. But I've never heard of anyone selling individual parts for these jacks.
So you may have to fabricate something.
Nice video 👌👌👌💯💯
It made me understand how it can be used electrically.
Keep your eyes out for a cheap 10 ton electric log splitter ,mount all the goods on your press frame happy days
I'm trying to turn a manual log splitter into an electric lol
Why use it upside down? add a piece of round stock to bottom sooooo much easier
may I know how much is the electric hydraulic pump you used?
The airless paint sprayer is something I pulled out of the dumpster. The motor worked but it wasn't developing pressure. I had to open up the check valve area and clean out a bunch of dried latex paint and it began working again. So that part was free. And I spent about $40 on various fittings and hoses to do the rest of the process.
Obviously they cost two or $300 new. So probably wouldn't make sense to buy one off the shelf for this purpose. But if you came across one for a little or nothing, this might be a good way to repurpose it.
Había un vídeo traducido al español..??
Very good job
تشکر وسپاس وهزاران لایک....اما تکلیف لوله مسی. را مشخص ننمودین ؟؟؟؟؟؟😋😋....🙏🙏🙏👌👌👌💝💝💝😘😘😘
Jack Nicholsons hydraulic press upgrades.
but will it run upside down?
If you mean the jack, no. Now that it has been set up to work upside down, it will no longer work if you flip it back to normal.
@@TheBuildist Thanks, great Job
Great explanation, nice lesson thanks.
Very interesting.
@25:00 - "Brain food" for ANYONE to "TRY" in a similar scenario when working with something that needs to have any further damage minimized as much as possible... .. ..
Furthermore; (This really only applies "IF" "Time's-agenda" is not conspiring with "Gravity's-Influence" and trying to make "Peanut Butter" out of.. Well, You get the point!...)
It's a very complicated maneuver that requires years of practice to fully accept and appreciate... Throw the whole thing in the NON ENERGY-SAVING freezer over night and go do something else. If it doesn't now effortlessly fall out on it's own; A.) "Way to over crank something knucklehead!" B.) With the assistance of a small picking utensil you should be able to back it out much easier. C.) Worst case scenario: Heat the whole thing up to approximately 3200F degrees and the broken tap will drip right out of the vice! ...Done
questo è un bel filmato e come questo ce ne sono molti altri, il problema è che non sono in lingua italiana e io mi debbo accontentare di vedere lo scorrere delle immagini purtroppo in quanto non "mastico" la lingua ...
Ho pubblicato per te i sottotitoli in italiano.
"There's nothing like a fine piece of hickory." (C. E. - Pale Rider)
The same thing can be said for a cheater pipe. 😁
Great video! What's the purpose of the valve you added? Does the sprayer pump have a check valve to hold the line pressure when not pumping? Do you have any idea what ton it would be rated at with only 3000psi? How much do you think is created by the jacking circuit?
The integral Jack pump produces around 10k psi, which is way above what the electric pump does. So the valve serves to isolate that high pressure to staying within the jack and not allowing it to backfeed up the electric pump. Based on the internal diameter of the hydraulic cylinder, the electric pump at 3,000 psi produces somewhere in the vicinity of 5.5 tons of down force.
Thanks for your input!
I just watched again and I must have missed the part where you explained everything I asked. It all makes sense to me.
Hi Sir, for our thesis. We buy ay Single Acting Hydraulic Electric Motor Pump. Can we use it to convert hydraulic jack from manual to electric?
yes. That's precisely what we did here.
@@TheBuildist Thanks, Sir!
@@TheBuildist do you have any advice sir?
Hello sir, I am also from the Philippines, I have a lot of questions regarding hydraulic electric motor pump, bibili rin for thesis, can I contact you if you do not mind?
thanks good job, i did enjoying ,i will do it,
Has anyone ever told you that you are to smart, to much brain power or anything like that? lol ( nice explanation and cool project)
lol! I've been called "too smart for my own good" once or twice! (Like the time I burned off my eyelashes and eyebrows trying to burn gasoline in a tiki torch.) Good memories...
But thanks for your nice compliment!
😵😂
Great video
Very cool
I want to replace the jack with a hydraulic cylinder
You can do that, but you lose the ability to hand pump. So for my press, my cylinder would need to be 4 to 5 inches in diameter, to keep up the 20 ton max power. However, it would slow down its speed, due to it taking increased fluid for the ram to move.
And you'll need to create a new fluid reservoir, since the current one is in the jack shroud. I'd recommend a car's coolant overflow tank, up above the electric pump.
And you'll lose the built-in jackscrew adjustment built into the current jack's ram.
So it's easy enough to do, but there will be trade-offs.
@@TheBuildist I was going to buy the tank and pump I found one for 250$ and the cylinder is 139
Brilliant idea!
Thank you! Cheers!
Must a check valve at the pump. Maybe watching longer will help. Impatiently isolated in April 2020.
Edit: So you went with a regular valve and that works too. A homemade check valve can be a useful skill to share.
Excellent project.
Oh and I do like my spare arbor press. It's just like my other one except for the colour.
Peace.
Thanks for your kind words.
@@TheBuildist Back at ya.
Yes Sir
3000 psi should be enough to give it all u need to get full power
Que hace el victor trujillo alli!!
Él solo desea poder!
Just after he said welcome to the basement..i give 👈up
What?
How I wish I can do this.
I love cheap
Jangan di sensor
Time to hit the weights
maqgnific
You omitted to include the engine+hydraulic pump on the list of expenses, and those cost something...much more than $40.
A lying video.
Are you really THAT thick!