Most regular maintenance on any outboard motor can be done by anyone with very little mechanical background. And the best thing is TH-cam videos such as yours makes it an easy step-by-step procedure for anyone who is not used to doing it. Best part about doing it yourself is not just saving the cost of the labour, but when you do it yourself you actually know what was done and not paying for something that was not actually completed.
That's very true and you don't have to take your boat to a dealer and leave it there for a couple of days to change the oil which is very inconvenient and doing it yourself like you say you make sure things get done right
Great videos, this is my go to videos right before bed. I myself own a 27 foot century open fisherman and looking at your videos has inspired me to go to the Bahamas. Great videos
Thank you Alex and your boat 27ft that's an excellent size to make the crossing just got to make sure everything's in order. And thank you for watching my videos Cap.
Good video. I change oil multiple times within 20hrs on any engine. First couple hrs have metal from the engine breaking in. Not cheap, but the first 10-20hrs are super important. Better to get that metallic oil out as soon as possible. I would change the filter as well. The green was most likely threadlocker. 100% agree adding antisieze. I use it sparingly on the spark plugs as well not matter what people say. May want to get a manual and torque wrench. I bet each bolt has a spec. Good and tight works, but I try to follow torque specs cause the bolt can stretch if overtightened. Great job saving yourself money. I usually never let mechanics touch my engines.
I am like you I don't like mechanics touching my engine because that would never treat your engines like you will I treat my vehicles that way to. thanks cap.
Great job on the motor warm up. Plz make sure you bring motor up to running temps this will insure that if you have any particals in the old oil it will have a much greater chance of pulling these items out. Calm seas brother
It’s definitely worth doing yourself. First time I changed my oil I didn’t run the engine to warm it up. Waited a couple of hours to drain all of it haha. Learned that lesson! Btw we are going to Bimini July 3-6. Hopefully you’ll be out there too!
@@alexflorida9544 thanks for the info cap. And definitely if they are there the fuel pump must be working. If weather is great Cap. And 4th july there will be so many people traveling to bimini, have you had a great experience during holidays like that one in bimini?
Thanks for the tutorial on the oil change!! That will save people some money on the labor charges. When will you have to replace the power unit oil. I had a lower unit many years ago go bad on me when I was much younger and gosh the repair was super expensive. It was a 40 horse Johnson and the repair was $2000.00. After that I changed it twice every season. Never had a problem after that.
Wow sorry to hear that Captain $2,000 that's a lot of money for a 40 horsepower engine and yes next week I will upload the video of changing the gear oil on a the outboard. Really appreciate your comment Captain navigate safe
I always run a magnet through the old oil and run it through a mesh just to see what is in there. On occasion, excessively large chunks of metal are discovered and it's good to let the engine company know for safety and warranty purposes.
I mean I get it, the manual says not to change it but for a few more bucks you may as well change the oil filter. Plus it’s good to pull it out and look inside which gives a good indication of how things are doing internally.
Hello cap. Is a Crooked Pilothouse boat one of a kind only one built like this , check out this video about build quality of my boat and tell me what you think after watching it th-cam.com/video/9Klne1ssh7k/w-d-xo.html Thanks cap🛳👍
I saw others use an oil extractor pump to pump out the old oil. I want to use it for my boat but I am still not sure if it will completely remove all the old oil out of the engine. What do you think about the extractor pump captain?
You could do it that way but there's always going to be old oil inside the engine so the best thing is to remove the drain plug so you can get 100% of all the oil using a pump is just the quickest way and I'll save you a o-ring but it's not the best way. Thanks for your great comment captain👍
Thx for the videos as usual. QUESTION: I do my own maintenance on the exact same 2018 Yam 200 ob. I used the earmuffs the same way and water doesn't come out of the piss hole. My overheat alarm went off before. But when submerged in the water. The piss hole is streaming water. Any advise?
This Motors require more pressure If you connect the water to them so make sure you have a lot of pressure at the hose that's probably why is happening and also check see if your ear muffs are leaking a lot of water that also could be a problem. Hope you get it fixed cuz if it happens a lot of times you damage your water pump impeller
@@OutOnTheReef Also, do you plan on doing r1oo hour service? Water pump replace? I want to do my own when the time comes. I pretty much know what needs to be done. But you explain it all very well
@@OutOnTheReef, yes thx. I think you may be right with that. The engine is too new to have blockage issues. Because when it's submerged in the water, immediately on start up the water starts streaming out.
👍🏼 question it binga 4 cylinder not 6 u think it would of been better to be a 6 cylinder just would like to know your take on it now that u have been with it for a min
@@OutOnTheReef thanks happy boat day for me just pick it up R222 thanks for all your info and answers when I ask thank a million hopefully see u out there one day keep up the great videos 👍🏼💪🏽
@@OutOnTheReef I was trying to order the correct size. Had some issues last time on my 200's. Think it's a 2.5. Just ordered a set. Will reply with the correct size once its delivered
Sorry, that Green on the threads didn't appear to me like anti-seize, and removed like it was teflon tape. I don't own, or work on Yamaha's, and wanted to ask if it is possibly that it was some sort of thread locker like loctite green? I would be careful where you use that anti-seize. I had a fishing buddy use it on his trailer lugs, for the same reason you are using it on your outboard (exposure to Saltwater, and possible difficulty removing that hardware). He had a 25' Whaler conquest WA (Honda outboards) that thought it would be a good idea to put anti-seize on the lugs for his trailer tires (Tandem Axle), while he was servicing the hubs prior to our long tow and fishing trip. This was simply because he was seeing rust, and having some issues when removing the lugs and tires to maintain the hubs. Six of us from North Texas had a week of Inshore/Offshore fishing planned out of 2 boats (24' Triton CC, and the Whaler), and he was able to tow the Whaler 400 miles without issues (that we were aware) on the highway to South Texas Gulf Coast, and our rental house on San Luis Island. We had an additional 14 mile drive to Free port, Texas where we launch for our 40 miles fishing trips to the platforms and structures of the Gulf of Mexico. We had 3 vehicles, and I was bringing up the rear recording this adventure, and with 6 miles to the boat ramp, we noticed the rear trailer tires starting to wobble something terrible, (it was interesting to be able to show him and the rest of the guys this recording) and the right rear came completely off the trailer and rolled into the sand dunes, we immediately pulled up next to him and had him pull over. The anti-seize allowed the lugs to come loose. This allowed the rims to wobble, and eventually stripped the threads on the lugs, and wore a larger lug hole in the rims, while also damaging the hubs. Fortunately, there was a West Marine up the road near the ramp in Free port, and I purchased 2 new rims, and 2 new hubs (first experience with oil filled hubs). While we were purchasing the new tires and rims, they were removing the front tires and that anti-seize, and then 1.5 hours later we were back on the road for a later launch on our fishing adventure.
I worked with a guy who sounds just like you. I figured if you were him you would recognize my name. Keep up the good work with the video's. I bought a 2019 210 FSH partly because of your videos.
I know this is an old video, but I noticed you didn't use a torque wrench on those bolts. I also watched your video on changing the lower unit oil and you didn't use a torque wrench there either. Any reason why you don't like to torque the bolts to the manufacturer's specs? Otherwise these are great how to videos! 👍
Just because it was the first service of a new Yamaha i decided to take it in to where i bought it just to make sure nothing could be said that i didnt get it done. So today tgey did an oil change, Lower gear lube change, pulled tge propeller and cheched tge seals, Oil filter and installed a new impeller cause it was over 50 hrs and my first service should of been at 20 hrs. I hate that Yamaha didn't put an hour meter with a new engine. So total damage today was 400.00 plus tax
Whow thats alot i did all that except the inpeller $85.00 The impeller was too soon for to be changed, and how you know they ware telling you the truth about changing the impeller? I dont trust some of the dealers they try to take advantage, not all of the ofcourse.
@@OutOnTheReef yeah it was a lot. But it was so close to tge 100 hr service i just had tgem do it. I stood right there while they did the job. Ill probably do it myself next time. Im lucky enough that tge owner who sold me is a friend and did it for half of what everyone else quoted
@@edwardfrohlich6555 yes i know he treated you fair. My friend took his key west boat to the dealer and for an oil change and gear drive oil $500 so you got your impeller done included in the $400 so you save more then $250
Good video however concerning the starboard side motor panel you removed. Those Allen screws have lock-tight on them (from the factory) not an anti-Seize compound as you mention.
might wanna look that up, i'm under the impression anti-seize is a big no no for aluminum parts due to the different metals in the anti seize. after i heard that i paid attention and did notice the manual always says to use greases. i did use it prior to hearing that, and never experienced issues, but i haven't owned anything long enough to have issues. and i mean the anti seize brand stuff, permatex i think. the "factory anti seize" you mention i think is thread sealer, not metallic anti seize.
That's great information captain the product I'm using it says is for marine applications for Harsh environments we will put it to the test see what happens, and I will inform you how it worked. Definitely I don't recommend it to be apply to spark plugs
Agreed, seems to be much easier to use an oil extractor. You save yourself from having to loosen all those extra bolts which are already factor tightened to spec. To each their own though :)
Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant - ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E.
@@OutOnTheReef ok, maybe what i heard was based on old school stuff, or just wrong. who knows. good to know trailer isn't messed up, cuz i did use some there before hearing not to.
You're right not the top one but the bottom ones they are. And trust me they get a lot of salt water on them no matter where they at. Just try watching your engine while you're running and look at all the salt water in the air
![[FINALE] 💸ที่แท้พ่อเป็นผู้ถือหุ้นบริษัทพันล้าน เขากลับใจตอนนี้ก็สายไปแล้ว🙇🏻♂️#ละครคุณธรรม #short](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yFwgjTFISUI/mqdefault.jpg)
Most regular maintenance on any outboard motor can be done by anyone with very little mechanical background. And the best thing is TH-cam videos such as yours makes it an easy step-by-step procedure for anyone who is not used to doing it.
Best part about doing it yourself is not just saving the cost of the labour, but when you do it yourself you actually know what was done and not paying for something that was not actually completed.
That's very true and you don't have to take your boat to a dealer and leave it there for a couple of days to change the oil which is very inconvenient and doing it yourself like you say you make sure things get done right
Great videos, this is my go to videos right before bed. I myself own a 27 foot century open fisherman and looking at your videos has inspired me to go to the Bahamas. Great videos
Thank you Alex and your boat 27ft that's an excellent size to make the crossing just got to make sure everything's in order.
And thank you for watching my videos Cap.
Good video. I change oil multiple times within 20hrs on any engine. First couple hrs have metal from the engine breaking in. Not cheap, but the first 10-20hrs are super important. Better to get that metallic oil out as soon as possible. I would change the filter as well. The green was most likely threadlocker. 100% agree adding antisieze. I use it sparingly on the spark plugs as well not matter what people say. May want to get a manual and torque wrench. I bet each bolt has a spec. Good and tight works, but I try to follow torque specs cause the bolt can stretch if overtightened. Great job saving yourself money. I usually never let mechanics touch my engines.
I am like you I don't like mechanics touching my engine because that would never treat your engines like you will I treat my vehicles that way to.
thanks cap.
You made that oil change look real easy thank you:)
I use anti-seize on every nut, bolt, screw I can. Even my trailer lug nuts get a tiny bit. Makes removal so much simpler.
I agree with you 100% Captain is the best thing for the saltwater environment
I like to keep some lube or silicone on the cowl cover gasket to prevent saltwater intrusion, and keep your motor looking new.
I enjoy your videos.
Great suggestion captain and thank you for watching
Great job on the motor warm up. Plz make sure you bring motor up to running temps this will insure that if you have any particals in the old oil it will have a much greater chance of pulling these items out. Calm seas brother
Thanks cap and I agree with you 100% on bringing the motor temperature thanks for the great comment
Thx to all the viewers. Great info.
Thanks Mike.
It’s definitely worth doing yourself. First time I changed my oil I didn’t run the engine to warm it up. Waited a couple of hours to drain all of it haha. Learned that lesson! Btw we are going to Bimini July 3-6. Hopefully you’ll be out there too!
Thanks Cap . And yes letting the engine warm up helps you remove all the dirty oil.
Let's see if I can make it hopefully there's good weather
Have you heard if Bimini has fuel back on since their Mainland generator blew up
Out On The Reef I have not heard but I know the Boston whaler rendezvous is there right now so it must be back up.
Out On The Reef hope you can make it that week. I have friends flying down for it so really need the weather to cooperate!
@@alexflorida9544 thanks for the info cap.
And definitely if they are there the fuel pump must be working.
If weather is great Cap. And 4th july there will be so many people traveling to bimini, have you had a great experience during holidays like that one in bimini?
On my twin 350's (36 Luhrs)..I used the tube down the dip stick method..easy, fast and simple.
yes using a pump is alot faster and in some inboard engines is the only way
Thanks for the tutorial on the oil change!! That will save people some money on the labor charges. When will you have to replace the power unit oil. I had a lower unit many years ago go bad on me when I was much younger and gosh the repair was super expensive. It was a 40 horse Johnson and the repair was $2000.00. After that I changed it twice every season. Never had a problem after that.
Wow sorry to hear that Captain $2,000 that's a lot of money for a 40 horsepower engine and yes next week I will upload the video of changing the gear oil on a the outboard.
Really appreciate your comment Captain navigate safe
Not a bad idea to remove oil fill cap when you're draining the oil, that way it will drain more completely using air flow
I always run a magnet through the old oil and run it through a mesh just to see what is in there. On occasion, excessively large chunks of metal are discovered and it's good to let the engine company know for safety and warranty purposes.
That's a great idea Captain I did not think of that thank you
@@OutOnTheReef You're welcome my friend!
I mean I get it, the manual says not to change it but for a few more bucks you may as well change the oil filter. Plus it’s good to pull it out and look inside which gives a good indication of how things are doing internally.
That is a great suggestion to Captain and yes it's not that expensive to do, thanks for the great suggestion
Nice job! You could be a demo video for Yamaha! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Captain Rick
I hope it helps others with their maintenance.
Navigate safe Cap.
What is the year make and model of your boat? It’s an awesome boat.
Hello cap. Is a Crooked Pilothouse boat one of a kind only one built like this , check out this video about build quality of my boat and tell me what you think after watching it
th-cam.com/video/9Klne1ssh7k/w-d-xo.html
Thanks cap🛳👍
Hey Cap, what size is that torques head for the bolts on the apron?
don't remember cap i did this video a long time ago, sorry cap.
Can you provide the info on the propeller you are using?
Look at my channel I have other videos And I think I mentioned the purple of captain thanks for watching
bien capitan hiciste el cambio tu nadie te lo hiso tu saves lo que tienes good
Since when did you allow comments? Anyways now that you do I just to tell you that you are awesome
Thank you Cap. and yes the comments are back on if you ever want to get in touch you could do it by this method navigate safe captain
Thanks for the great comment
Good video captain!
Thanks Dan👍
I saw others use an oil extractor pump to pump out the old oil. I want to use it for my boat but I am still not sure if it will completely remove all the old oil out of the engine. What do you think about the extractor pump captain?
i have used it before on my Yamaha 190 fsh and worked perfect
@@OutOnTheReef Thanks captain! :)
@@ericdang5686 anytime cap.
I’m curious why the Yamaha manual recommends draining oil with a pump via the dipstick hole?
You could do it that way but there's always going to be old oil inside the engine so the best thing is to remove the drain plug so you can get 100% of all the oil using a pump is just the quickest way and I'll save you a o-ring but it's not the best way.
Thanks for your great comment captain👍
They only want a certification mech to remove the housing
Thx for the videos as usual. QUESTION: I do my own maintenance on the exact same 2018 Yam 200 ob. I used the earmuffs the same way and water doesn't come out of the piss hole. My overheat alarm went off before. But when submerged in the water. The piss hole is streaming water. Any advise?
This Motors require more pressure If you connect the water to them so make sure you have a lot of pressure at the hose that's probably why is happening and also check see if your ear muffs are leaking a lot of water that also could be a problem.
Hope you get it fixed cuz if it happens a lot of times you damage your water pump impeller
@@OutOnTheReef Ok thank you for tip
@@OutOnTheReef Also, do you plan on doing r1oo hour service? Water pump replace? I want to do my own when the time comes. I pretty much know what needs to be done. But you explain it all very well
@@paulcon649 next week I will be posting the gear oil change and in the future I'll show you a video how to change the impeller around 200hrs
@@OutOnTheReef, yes thx. I think you may be right with that. The engine is too new to have blockage issues. Because when it's submerged in the water, immediately on start up the water starts streaming out.
👍🏼 question it binga 4 cylinder not 6 u think it would of been better to be a 6 cylinder just would like to know your take on it now that u have been with it for a min
the v6 225 hp would been better cap. my boat is under power with the 200hp so i can carry too much weight
@@OutOnTheReef ok I am about to get a 222 so just asking to see if I should go with 200 or 250 thanks
@@rolandvance6663 Great idea captain study before you purchase that way you're not underpower or overpowered good luck and thanks for watching
@@OutOnTheReef thanks happy boat day for me just pick it up R222 thanks for all your info and answers when I ask thank a million hopefully see u out there one day keep up the great videos 👍🏼💪🏽
@@rolandvance6663 awesome buddy and congrats on your new awesome boat, and what engine did you choose cap?
Muy interesante e instructivo. Gracias. Saludos.
Muchas gracias Cap.
Good job man I can take you fishing now😁
Lol im ready please pick me up😁🛥
What size Allen socket is used in removing the bolts
im sorry Brent i dont remember i did this video years ago cap. but if you have a set of socket you would not have a problem
@@OutOnTheReef I was trying to order the correct size. Had some issues last time on my 200's. Think it's a 2.5. Just ordered a set. Will reply with the correct size once its delivered
@@brentstone2242 awesome Brent hope everything goes well ,and yes if you can tell me the correct size I will really appreciate that Captain👍👍😉⚓
@@OutOnTheReef it is a #5 metric. Anything else makes it difficult and will strip out. Just got the correct size in the mail
@@brentstone2242 thanks buddy for remembering to let me know really appreciate it and I'm glad you found it.
Now enjoy that boat this summer👍
Sorry, that Green on the threads didn't appear to me like anti-seize, and removed like it was teflon tape. I don't own, or work on Yamaha's, and wanted to ask if it is possibly that it was some sort of thread locker like loctite green?
I would be careful where you use that anti-seize. I had a fishing buddy use it on his trailer lugs, for the same reason you are using it on your outboard (exposure to Saltwater, and possible difficulty removing that hardware). He had a 25' Whaler conquest WA (Honda outboards) that thought it would be a good idea to put anti-seize on the lugs for his trailer tires (Tandem Axle), while he was servicing the hubs prior to our long tow and fishing trip. This was simply because he was seeing rust, and having some issues when removing the lugs and tires to maintain the hubs.
Six of us from North Texas had a week of Inshore/Offshore fishing planned out of 2 boats (24' Triton CC, and the Whaler), and he was able to tow the Whaler 400 miles without issues (that we were aware) on the highway to South Texas Gulf Coast, and our rental house on San Luis Island. We had an additional 14 mile drive to Free port, Texas where we launch for our 40 miles fishing trips to the platforms and structures of the Gulf of Mexico. We had 3 vehicles, and I was bringing up the rear recording this adventure, and with 6 miles to the boat ramp, we noticed the rear trailer tires starting to wobble something terrible, (it was interesting to be able to show him and the rest of the guys this recording) and the right rear came completely off the trailer and rolled into the sand dunes, we immediately pulled up next to him and had him pull over.
The anti-seize allowed the lugs to come loose. This allowed the rims to wobble, and eventually stripped the threads on the lugs, and wore a larger lug hole in the rims, while also damaging the hubs.
Fortunately, there was a West Marine up the road near the ramp in Free port, and I purchased 2 new rims, and 2 new hubs (first experience with oil filled hubs). While we were purchasing the new tires and rims, they were removing the front tires and that anti-seize, and then 1.5 hours later we were back on the road for a later launch on our fishing adventure.
No worries captain and wow thank you for sharing that story sorry to hear about that sounded really stressful
20w40 for hot weather like south Florida?
excellent choice cap.👍
@@OutOnTheReef what you think about yamalube 20w40 ?
Another great video my friend. Thank you.👍👍👍
Thank you Saku😉
Great video cap, did you ever work at Bongo's in Miami?
No but I ate there before why
I worked with a guy who sounds just like you. I figured if you were him you would recognize my name. Keep up the good work with the video's. I bought a 2019 210 FSH partly because of your videos.
@@rdsandy11 cool Cap. Thats a great boat enjoy it .
I'm sure we'll meet in the water one day captain, Navigate safe
Next time you need to spray the engine try a product called corrosion X it helps when the engine is used in a salt environment.
Thanks I will look into it ,
i appreciate a captain.
Hi, what is the average price for you boat notor?
depends on how you equip it cap, well equip 90k
Yes thank you very much
Anytime David and thank you for watching
this your new boat, what is the brand...
Is a Crooked PilotHouse Boat one of a kind only one built like this cap.
I know this is an old video, but I noticed you didn't use a torque wrench on those bolts. I also watched your video on changing the lower unit oil and you didn't use a torque wrench there either. Any reason why you don't like to torque the bolts to the manufacturer's specs? Otherwise these are great how to videos! 👍
Yes you are right cap. I need to get one and use it thanks for the suggestions
I think in Florida we should use 20W40 instead 10W30!
That is a great option too cap. but im going by Yamaha standards 👍👍
Just because it was the first service of a new Yamaha i decided to take it in to where i bought it just to make sure nothing could be said that i didnt get it done.
So today tgey did an oil change,
Lower gear lube change, pulled tge propeller and cheched tge seals,
Oil filter and installed a new impeller cause it was over 50 hrs and my first service should of been at 20 hrs. I hate that Yamaha didn't put an hour meter with a new engine.
So total damage today was 400.00 plus tax
Whow thats alot i did all that except the inpeller $85.00
The impeller was too soon for to be changed, and how you know they ware telling you the truth about changing the impeller?
I dont trust some of the dealers they try to take advantage, not all of the ofcourse.
@@OutOnTheReef yeah it was a lot. But it was so close to tge 100 hr service i just had tgem do it. I stood right there while they did the job.
Ill probably do it myself next time. Im lucky enough that tge owner who sold me is a friend and did it for half of what everyone else quoted
@@edwardfrohlich6555 yes i know he treated you fair.
My friend took his key west boat to the dealer and for an oil change and gear drive oil $500 so you got your impeller done included in the $400 so you save more then $250
Good video however concerning the starboard side motor panel you removed. Those Allen screws have lock-tight on them (from the factory) not an anti-Seize compound as you mention.
Thanks Randy for the heads up👍👍
Nice I subbed
Thanks cap.
Why not just change the filter anyway
That's a good point captain
might wanna look that up, i'm under the impression anti-seize is a big no no for aluminum parts due to the different metals in the anti seize. after i heard that i paid attention and did notice the manual always says to use greases. i did use it prior to hearing that, and never experienced issues, but i haven't owned anything long enough to have issues. and i mean the anti seize brand stuff, permatex i think. the "factory anti seize" you mention i think is thread sealer, not metallic anti seize.
That's great information captain the product I'm using it says is for marine applications for Harsh environments we will put it to the test see what happens, and I will inform you how it worked.
Definitely I don't recommend it to be apply to spark plugs
Agreed, seems to be much easier to use an oil extractor. You save yourself from having to loosen all those extra bolts which are already factor tightened to spec. To each their own though :)
Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant - ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E.
@@OutOnTheReef ok, maybe what i heard was based on old school stuff, or just wrong. who knows. good to know trailer isn't messed up, cuz i did use some there before hearing not to.
@@tim6986 I have not used it all my trailer bolt nuts yet is that something you would recommend to do?
Im close to my 20hr service but people keep telling me to take it to the dealer for warranty records.. but damn 650$ for oil change
Wow cap that is Robbery i woul not paid that fee 😳 i have never taken my boat engine to the dealer, Yamaha are very reliable cap
Thoses bolts are not under the water line. If they were your boat would sink
You're right not the top one but the bottom ones they are.
And trust me they get a lot of salt water on them no matter where they at.
Just try watching your engine while you're running and look at all the salt water in the air
Like your videos but don’t understand why u hide your identity
thanks cap. and i like to keep my private life private that's all cap.😉👍⚓
What a pain in the ass to change oil My 150 Yahamah just one drain screw in the back that’s it
Sorry to hear that Captain hope you find a better method