Advanced Natural Metal Finish : Building The Eduard P-51D Mustang 1/48 Scale : Episode.2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มี.ค. 2022
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Thanks for a great tutorial on the preshading for natural medal finishes. One of your best
Thank you very much!
Thank you for this post. I have several aeroplane kits that scream for a bare metal finish. You have given me the tools to attempt to apply what you do so well.
Haven't noticed any comments on it, in re: rudder/ailerons.
They weren't NMF but silver-doped fabric.
Noticeably different tonal shift to the wing or fuselage.
HTH
For true accuracy, 2 points are worth mentioning:
1 most of the top surface of P-51 wings didn't show panel lines as these were filled & sanded extremely smooth at the factory to take advantage of the laminar flow of the wing
2 approx. 1/3 of the fuselage of NMF Mustangs were actually painted aluminium & not left in natural alclad.
In both cases, plenty of info avail on the web to confirm this
And the control surfaces were fabric covered so could not have been “natural metal”…
@@RosscoCPT Some surfaces were, indeed, fabric covered. Depended on production blocks and dates. Be careful to check references closely...
@@charlescastell4638 According to a post in Key Aero, The gear doors, fuel tank doors, flaps and ailerons were all left bare metal. Am still not sure about the elevators but the rudder was indeed covered in fabric.
My guess is they were also as metal was left off there to save tail weight. I tried to post a detailed description from their site of the wings' finishing process but was censored with no reason given.
Another point to be made, the wings were primered in green zink chromate. I am going to do a weathered Mustang were the green primer is showing through some of the painted aluminum. Black and white pictures are hard to tell anything. But I am going to go for it anyway. Also there is a stainless steel panel were the wings meet the fuselage. Excellent model!!!! Love your show, you have great painting skills!!!!
To transfer the paint from the jar to the cup, I use drinking straws, put the straw into the paint, pop your finger over the end, place the straw into the cup and release your finger. When you move on to the next colour, just cut the end off. Each straw will do about 10-12 colours, there are 100 straws in the pack I bought for £1.00. Economy modelling!
A hobby shop owner showed me half a century ago how to use a 3" section of rubber tubing the same way. A piece of sponge was good for pressure-clearing the nozzle as well. The soft surgical rubber forms an airtight seal against fingertip.
Use this video as a drinking game, take one shot of beer everytime he says “natural metal finish”! Have fun and leave a clear path to the porcelain goddess! Cheers! 😎👍
All said, thank you for valuable tips on the very sensitive area of natural metal finishing, all useful for a wide variety of aircraft subjects. Due to the qualities of the finishes it is an area where small errors can easily magnify with little effort.
So one thing to keep in mind is an airbrush, especially the internal-mix type used here, is the one tool that can actually be used to apply colors in true scale. That is why they should never be used in a heavy-handed way as when used to paint with too broad strokes or using too low pressure that can result in orange-peel effect. Aerosol cans are much cheaper for just this reason.
An airbrush is a precision instrument that can produce truly fine artwork if used appropriately. As a supplemental tip, too-fast drying finishes can be further smoothed using any of a variety of retarders, slow-setting solvents including even mineral spirits. They are available for just this purpose.
Very well done my friend.
Thank you! Cheers!
I really like the trigger style Airbrush, because you can hold with one finger on top of the trigger and one under, creating a trigger stop that you can adjust on the move. I use Vallejo Metal Colors, and wow are they nice, as good if not just a touch better than AK. But ... if you don’t clean the styrene extremely well, and use Stynylrez primer, it will likely pull up. I’ve also used testors chrome.
Very, very helpful says I. An old modeler of 68 years..
I agree, at 68 we can all learn something new to keep the passion alive. My B-29 will be the test this winter.
Hey Scott and John, I've got a few years on top of you guys, built my last model in late 80's then stashed everything while life got in the way. Now retired I've been seeing all these model videos and pulling out the stash to get back in the saddle. However, suffering from a bad case of " model evolution". Kit cost are staggering, new materials in glue paint, puddy, everything when I was building you couldn't mix different kind of paints because it would etch plastic. I'm definitely glad I kept a reasonably large stash of kits because they will most likely be my sacrificial kits to re- learn I usually built clean out of box and didn't use all this layering and washes and weathering these new modelers use.. Not complaing as the new kits and materials are definitely an advancement just over whelmed on what's out there and where to start. Good luck and send any ideas or experiences you have had so far if you like. Retired in Pacific Northwest so winter is around the corner. Disadvantage is have to order everything on line because there are no real hobby shops around. Thanks for letting me ramble just looking for folks in my position :-)
@@c123bthunderpig I am happy to know that a fire was relit. I embraced online availability after never buying a model where I live since about 1980. I bought what I could afford twice when stores a hundred miles away closed. I am vintage kit rich too.
I love water based Tamiya paint and their line of glues and decal stuff. The cost? I will dig deeper but waste nothing. Buy a milk frothing tool for mixing your paint. A good clerk in a kitchen store will know what you’re looking for.
The realism of today’s kits gobsmacks me. Eduard kits seem to bet at the top of the details food chain. I have lots of fun finding older kits to build again. The Phantom Mustang is soon. Hubley metal kits are fun to spend a few Winter nights working on.
Best Wishes from deep in the Boreal Forest.
@@grownjohnboy John, thanks so much sharing these great ideas, now I don't feel like the last man on Earth. I would have never thought of the milk frother, and I've seen so many TH-camrs use the Tamyia glues, they do look very efficient compared to the " old Testors goo ". I'll also check out Edwards. You're confirmation has stoked my motivation considerably , and giving me more direction to my quest . Happy Building from the land of Sasquatch
Would you recommend using gloss varnish over the Xtreme metal paints when I use gloss varnish over most of the Xtreme paints doesn’t seem to change the metallic affect but when I use it over the polished aluminium really alters the look of the finish.
Will this technique work over a black base?
Greetings from the U.S.A.! I've started working on an Eduard Mustang myself, and am following along with your metal finish tutorials. In this one, it seems that you have fixed the canopy sections in place and are spraying the NMF all over it as you go along. Or, are you using a sacrificial/'dummy' canopy from the unused kit parts as masks? Appreciate your work and fine results.
So bring me up to speed, natural metallic finish, are you talking about lacquer or enamel or acrylic?
That black paint around the exhaust was not smooth at all before you hit it with polish. When your metal colour came down there was a lot of goobers still visible and emphasized with the shiny paint.
What a process it was polishing (?) those panels around the exhaust?! Why not just go Mr Colour GX2 and save time and effort that will achieve the same if not better result? It was a noticeably less shiny metallic/steel like appearance on that surface of the actual aircraft old son! More sunshine on your parade from Sydney. MATE!
Have you used any other polishing compounds? The reason I ask stems from the fact that Tamiya has discontinued those polishing compounds.
you can still get the tamiya ones of ebay and amazon, but do cost a bit, I will have a look around for some alternatives
Stop by your local auto parts store
I didn't know you were in the army, after many hours of spit polish, what did you do to anyone that stood on your parade boots? where you infantry or pouge/pog?
I was in the armoured core mate
@Genessis Models Which Regiment mate? I was in The Life Guards (pre Union with The Blues and Royals) then with QDG...
@Genessis Models Fantastic channel...learning so many tips
"Core?"
@@Chilly_Billy I don't reckon any qualifying by virtue of a spelling error - more likely auto-correct - is warranted. Get real.
I’d love to do preshaging but I only have brushes..
You might be able to still. It's all down to the thinness of your paint
@@phillcom3 Im worried about having hard edges though :/
Natchmel finish... lol
There we go again with that "Gay-oozie" clear coat! *goorzy" being the true pronunciation of 'gauzy'. Same as the name Paul mate... and we ALL know how you stand correction, now don't we. Please keep in mind that one never ever stops learning - or why would you be providing tutorials??? Kind and well intended regards from Sydney and Ballina. MATE.