Bleeding the Rear Brake Successfully on a Ducati SuperSport 939
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ธ.ค. 2024
- Our Ducati Supersport 939 or 950 often have a problem with rear brake fade. It's likely due to a few reasons, such as location of the rear brake line and the bleed nipple on the caliper. Pooling a few ideas together, this is what I've come up with to successfully bleed the SuperSport's rear brake. Boe's rear brake has been soggy and useless for months now, and was only bled 10 months ago. But after this method, his rear brake is probably the best it's ever been.
LINKS...
On the 939 forum, Mikan’s post “Bleeding The Rear Brake the Easy Way”: www.ducatisupe...
CanyonChasers' mention of a similar problem on his Multistrada and using Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid (I'll try next time): • How To Fix the Mushy R...
CREDITS…
Thanks to Evan Splash for the theme music Drive It Now, provided by Tunetank at: tunetank.com/t...
Super video, thank you Stace! Now I finally understand a few of the comments I have seen about moving the callipers to the top. I would have loved to have seen how you fiddled about with them to actually move to the top, but seeing comments below it seems others were able to do it as well, so I take it, that's it's reasonably straightforward. Really good to know this is a standing issue with the Ducati 939 SSS. I have a 2017 model and the brakes have just been getting softer and softer since purchase a year ago. Unfortunately, I don't have all the tools or the facilities, but I can now explain what I'd like done when I take it in for a service. Very helpful.
So glad this helped! Yeah it is easy to move the caliper to the top of the rotor, once you have some freeplay by releasing the brake line from the swingarm. If your mechanic does it, they won't have any trouble.
Thank you for the video. I just did mine and it went smooth. I was able to torque the caliper bolts too.
Now my brake are so much better, like 100 times better.
Yeah I'm on a road trip ATM and really appreciating a goid rear brake for slow speed turns in the fuel stations!
I use a short extension with a swivel to bring the ratchet to the outside of the sprocket on the front bolt, loosen the bleeder before removing the caliper, than just flip it under the chain using a bungee strap to hold it with the bleeder up with the rear foot peg bracket (could use the tire or shock) put a 12mm spanner between the pads and bleed that way takes about 15 min.
Great ideas to try next time, thanks.
Interesting video Stacey. I changed my rear pads this week and also found it very tricky to remove the caliper bolts. I found that removing the wheel greatly simplified things! No problems with either standard wrench or torque wrench access with the wheel removed.
If taking off the wheel works for you, that's the way to go. I don't have the strength or appropriate impact to break that wheel nut torque! I reckon next time it will be quicker for me, but there's almost always more than one right way to get the job done 🙂
@@staceonwheelsyes - you do need an impact wrench to take the wheel off and a large torque wrench to put it back on.
You definitely don’t have to fit the caliper through the wheel. I just cut the zip tie you mentioned, and then was able to pass the caliper around the front of the tire and then mount it on top of the rotor like you did for bleeding. Thanks for the video!
Yes, you're right! I realised it later 🤪.
Stace I’ve seen most of your videos for the research of my new no nonsense bike 😊. I Honestly feel the Ninja 650 & Suzuki sv650 are the 2 no nonsense bikes to buy in the 2 cylinder range 😊
You gotta know what's right for you. I don't often hear those two being compared as alternatives to the SuperSport, but I haven't ridden either so really have no opinion.
Oh Ducati. I would love to interview their designers 😅
I'd hold Brembo accountable for this particular design flaw! 😂
nice tutorial ! Thanks ! What koind of stand do you have - kind of a center stand ?
Thanks. The stand is an abba superbike stand. Excellent when you're not confident enough to use a paddock stand on your own. And these bikes of coyrse have the challenge of a single sided swingarm and need a special stand anyway.
@@staceonwheelsnice piece - thx😀
Hey I’m having a weird issue my rear brake when pressed would push down all the way no pressure I took out the master cylinder and found the rubber was chipped and so I ordered a repair kit for 45 dollars plus shipping. I’ve replaced it and bleed the brakes now the issue is still there same as before it never worked as it’s supposed to after replacing the seal kit and push up part. What can be wrong? The cylinder? Itself? Maybe it’s bigger than 11mm? I was thinking next option was to replace the master cylinder for a new one then what’s next what if it’s a bad abs pump?
Wow what a drama. Personally, I don't know that much about the brakes. You could try ducatisupersport939.net as there is a heap of info there.
@@staceonwheels I gave up and just bought another complete master rear cylinder from a pagínale v4 it’s 13mm instead of 11mm so it will work better than the Oem got it for 26 on eBay used. The cylinder itself was defective after checking it inside I realized the end of the cylinder they missed out some honing and when the rubber seal gets down there it gets cut and damaged
Great that you found the cause. I'll be curious to know how the pani master cylinder works out for you, too. And if the rear brake feels any stronger.
@@staceonwheels I’ll let you know as soon as I receive it I’m in NY it’s coming from Fl
Why not just take the wheel off so you can use normal tools?
I don't have the strength to undo it or torque wrench to tighten it.
Just taken my wheel off . The nut is a real B@#£%!d . And the torque setting to put it back on is allegedly 230nm . Which very FT
Yep, which is why I don't bother for a brake bleed. My mechanic does tyre changes on this bike.