Counter-intuitive Tips for Overhang Climbs! Ft. Max Takano
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ย. 2024
- Check out the video to learn counter-intuitive tips for overhang climbs!
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Stumbled into this concept myself at the gym just last week when repeating a problem I'd done a couple weeks earlier! I've got a few climbing gyms within a half-hour travel from home, and am still having fun exposing myself to as many boulders as possible, and changing up where I'm climbing between sessions, so not repeating many problems yet, only did so to show a friend beta when asked. Being already familiar with the moves and what I wanted to do, I was able to flow through the problem much smoother and quicker, as opposed to my usual slow methodical static "figuring-it-out-as-we-send". It meant that I was able to make quick use of positions I wouldn't be comfortable holding for long periods of time, because I was already transitioning into the next hold and a better position. It felt fantastic! Thanks for helping make the ideas behind the *why* a bit more explicit for me
random cut on your forearm is pretty relatable
Thanks for this video! I like what you mentioned about how the most comfortable position is not always the most optimal position. I definitely have a tendency to climb based on what "feels right" but that obviously doesn't always work out. One of my favourite problems in a gym had a tricky part where it would actually force you into an extremely comfortable layback position...but to get out of it was absolutely horrendous. The beta was to actually force yourself into a weird position but it would make the following moves so much easier lol. Any ways, I think what really separates beginners to more intermediate climbers, is being able to recognize and read future body positions/set ups, and not just read positions on single move by move basis. It's definitely a good thing to think about!
Also nice to see you mention deadpoints as well. They definitely become more relevant on steeper walls with really bad foot holds!
Thanks as always for the vids. Nice to see your finger injuries not holding you back! Cheers.
Glad that you can relate to it! It's such a weird feeling to force myself into a worse position for the sake of making the next move easier!
I wish my gym had a moonboard it seems like such a great training tool
Right?!
I just wish my gym was open
Try on a spray wall. The disadvantage is that u will make ur own problems which probably fit ur style, but in the other hand, in a spray wall there are much more different hold types.
@@Carlos-cm5si yeah thanks it's what i made my home Wall into back in June finnally got enough holds by then. Spray walls are imo
@@Carlos-cm5si Pro-tip to avoid this issue: always select holds that would make your style almost useless, if you can make it work anyway (i.e. using heel-hooks) then you will become great at it, if it doesn't work then you'll learn something new.
Climb at a much lower grade then you but first example tells me something. When a move is really hard to hold, climb directly to the new position and then figure out backwards how to get there, this works great on any level.
This reminds me of your session with Paul Robinson, where I think he mentioned that when you fall off, you weren’t in the right body position to make the move, and the direction you fell in is more of where you should be after making that move. When you did that move, I think you can see that happen.
One arm lock offs would be a great addition to your trainning if you're struggling with deadpoints. If you are strong enough at it, you can always solve the move in a more or less static fashion
Simple reminder and great learning lesson. 🤘Technique will always prevail, no matter how strong someone is and not only in climbing. You get in a fight with the wall? 😆 Looks like a nice slice on forearm. 😲
Yea I hit a hold when I was dyno-ing on the moonboard. Fortunately it looks bad but it doesn't feel too bad.
who else doesnt even climb but still watches the videos
I think you need to start... Haha, seriously though - you'll be hooked.
Appreciate the support, I know you are probably waiting for the front lever. It's hard, but I am still training hard for it.
@@GeekClimber We love you! Keep going :)
Geek Climber a tip for the front lever is to do an advanced front lever trainer. You start in the advanced tuck, then bring one leg out and keep the other in the advanced tuck position
with lockdown, all I can do is watch youtube videos
Did anyone else think he lost his leg?
I can't wait to try outdoor climbing. Thank you GC for another great video!
Glad you like it!
Great tip
Hello Geek Climber, how is your front lever going?
front lever?
Watching you climb while we have lockdown in germany :((
Unfortunately my climbing gym just closed again yesterday too. So sad.
@@GeekClimber time to improve handstands, I guess
How the front lever going geek climber?
nice
Tell me more about this magical backstep
I made a video a few years ago talking about it here: th-cam.com/video/577FLFvBt98/w-d-xo.html!
What hold set is your board? The one at my gym has those red jugs but I’m wondering if it shares enough holds that I could try the problems you post
This is the 2016 set. It sounds like your gym has the 2017 set!
When is this front lever
Which moonboard holds are you using??
It's the 2016 set!
!= 😂absolutely Geek😂😂
I don't understand. Is it just changing the point of contact on the foot, or was there more to it?
also he is holding his body further away from the wall (which is harder to hold on to) so he has easier time generating momentum to execute the hand movement
He pivoted his left foot clockwise-to be on his toe instead of inner edge, which pushed his hip outward, hence a more difficult position; but then also created the room for generating momentum to get to next hold.
when are u gonna do the front lever video?
just because you are a geek dosent mean you must live the barcode life style my brother...
Still waiting for the front ever video bro...
Waiting for Human Flag video
As well as one arm pull-up!
just step up with yout right foot...
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