My shop instructor taught us that the fastest way to damage any cutting tool was to stress it thermally. I'm surprised that a fluid wasn't used to help transfer heat away from the cutting edges.
Carbide does not need cutting fluid. In fact cutting fluid can be detrimental because it can cool unevenly. Carbide thrives on heat and pressure and the pair can produce a mirror finish.
@@angusmurray3767the only problem i see is being this is brazed carbide there is a possibility of damaging the the connection between the carbide/braze/steel
There are small diameter CBN & PCD, (diamond), drum bits available which work well for both creating/modifying carbide cutting tips which don't cost a fortune & work nicely for making positive rake cutting edges. One of my fav go to's for rough cutting steel, (when the piece won't fit in my saw(s)/shop is an ancient Skil 77 worm drive w/ a diamond masonry blade too worn to cleanly cut tile in my wet saw. Been using them both w/ a an air nozzle for clearing slag & cooling for 15+ years; neither the 50 yr old saw or the 'dead' blade know the word quit. A note of caution when grinding carbide, (or cobalt drills). Carbide contains cobalt. Cobalt is NOT healthy for your lungs OR body. I'm struggling w/ how to make a new diamond abrasive based grinder safe, right now. I try to batch my carbide grinding to lessen the prep & clean up work. I vacuum the grinder/saw & area before, during & after the work and wear a cartridge type respirator in the during & after phase, then go outside & blow off my body. You don't want an accumulation of the stuff in your shop. Cobalt is mildly radioactive, but has enough 'buzz' to mess up your life, down the road. Good vid, I've found masonry bits to come in handy, at times. I just saw some carbide tipped HSS bits on Ali Express for a good price. Don't bad mouth Chinese stuff until you try it; there is some excellant quality tooling out there, at a fraction of US price. (CNC has been the great equalizer & put a turbo'd the improvement in Chinese products, compared to Japan's 20-30 improvement path, post WWII.
About 50 people commented on this already and they’re correct and you’re correct. I originally had a different title for this video and I was using a new program or software called tube buddy It changes the names of the video to produce better algorithms or something along those lines and it also told me to change the colours of the thumbnail I like trying new things so I tried it out and this is what it came up with so that’s the title of the video And I can’t remember what the original title was called now that I’m trying to think about it Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Would a cutting fluid of some type have made a difference in the breakage ? I am assuming that the bits get hot and that’s contributing to breakage , but just curious if in fact the heat does play a part and if you have used cutting fluid in the past .
Yes, cutting fluid would help all the demos that I’ve done in my three hardness , drilling videos were worst. Case scenarios just demonstrate the ability of hand, sharpening Concrete bits If you have the ability to use coolant and air at the same time, that would be probably the best situation for most steals if it is an extremely hard steel, and you can increase the rigidity and use oil, if the temperature is not excessive, that would also be a really good situation I hope this helps Ray
@@shopandmath Had a former Alanson, Michigan friend who made fixtures for testing wiring harnesses. Their materials were "plastic-non conductive". Elmer LaTocha taught me to "PECK DRILL"= CUT AND REMOVE BIT, SPINNINIG TO AIR COOLTHE BIT, THEN "PECK IT SLIGHTLY DEEPER, AND REPEAT. Cuss-ed as I am I needed to "see what NOT, following this method DID! THE HEAT OF FRICTION DRILLING YIELDS A LARGER HOLE IN THE "PLASTICS' " MATERIAL. We as a society "grow in knowledge by "Paying IT Forward".
Green wheels will work but a diamond wheel is the best It’s kind of like using a paintbrush to paint the car, or gun one is obviously better than the other
This was interesting. I'm 35 years as a glazier, and when the tile guys on jobsites started using the newer hard ceramic tile, we had a tough time getting through it with basic masonry bits. And we all broke tiles soon as we turned on the hammer function of our drills. So,we had to start using the carbide tipped spearpoint bits. These were and still are expensive, so I started using my little tabletop Harbor Freight tile saw which has a built in water tray to sharpen my bits. Naturally, other glaziers asked me to sharpen theirs, too. The smart ones, that is, who didn't want to spend ridiculous money on new ones for every job. Sure, I could have built the price of the bits into the quote,but where's the fun in that? I learned to copy the angle of a new one, too,so they would function well. If you sharpen them at a 90 degree angle, they just heat up and bust loose from their braze.
Use hollow diamond-grit bits on tile & glass. Back both with another scrap piece & drill through tile & only partially through the scrap when drilling to avoid break-through disasters.
An outstanding presentation! Special thanks for being considerate and lowering the irritating background volume. 99% of youtube videos have a volume which destroys the eardrums and renders the useful speech useless.
If anyone want's to try this, it's much cheaper to get a diamond circular saw blade. It will be a bit coarse but will work to grind carbide into shape. I've been using masonry drills to drill through broken taps and hardened carbon steel since the late 1970's, well before solid carbide drill bits were easily available (or affordable)
I think you mean hardened steel. To drill harden steel as a compound verb you could work harden it with the drill bit cutting edge. To drill hardened steel you can use a stellite drill, if you know how to use it. Carbide tipped drills are not adequate.
You are 100%, correct? I was just trying to do a simple comparison on material compared to other materials And could’ve done a better job doing so thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray
you are correct i’m using a program that suggests what the title for the video should be and multiple other things sometimes it works really well sometimes it doesn’t I don’t remember what the original title was. It was something like high hardened, steel or how to drill steel that is hard I think it had difficulty in the phrase as well, but when it came out with that, I said not a problem copy paste and went into Canva and redid all of the artwork that they suggested as well. I hope the title didn’t take away from the content, you enjoyed the video. Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
I often need to drill a #6 machine screw body drill thru stainless, and HSS is not cutting the mustard. (pun intended. Sorry.) Do I just need better HSS, or maybe cobalt?
Stainless steel can be tricky. It depends on what grade it is and it also depends if it’s been work hardened. If it is being work hard, solid carbide has a very difficult time getting through it. If it’s not work hard, I would recommend a cobalt drill or maybe a split point Walter drill. Hopefully this helps. Ray
Ahhhh, hahahahaha. I did read it as, how to drill harden steel, as in how to harden steel by drilling in it. Done that been there. Drilling 30mm hole in Hardox and even the carbide didn't work on it, fun times... :D :D
what is the technical name for those diamond dressing sticks? when i do a search for diamond dressing stick i get all kinds of results. what is the material in the stick called? Thanks! I'll be dressing a Norton surface grinding type diamond wheel
Even if the cutting edge lengths are off by even a slight amount the drill will wander then try and bring itself back to the centre resulting in triangular holes and a broken drill bit for the unwary. In my course I barely passed the lessons on twist drill sharpening by hand. Our lessons were as good as what the instructors were capable of. In fact, all of our basic lessons on milling machine cutting bit sharpening and twist drill sharpening should have been an entire stand alone course rather than 8 total hours of theory and practice, & let's move on. My other complaint is that there was not one word on line boring, nor rigging which is a required competency for being able to function in any job shop.
Our year one apprentices have to sharpen a 60° threading tool And a drill You would be surprised that the number of apprentices that do not have to sharpen drills anymore. I would say around 80% don’t ever have to sharpen a drill. When the drills do they go get a new one or a sharpened one they have people in the tool room that sharpened and drills whatever cutting tools they use.
Should work on dovetail, tenon saw, miter saw and other back saw plates, etc., as well as any other hand saw saw plate, all of which which are made of spring steel.
Lol I could have used this info a while back. I had to put holes in a new blade for my friends tractor bucket. That was an adventure. I made slow progress with cobalt bits, constantly resharpening, I actually enjoy sharpening drill bits. The whole world disappears and its just me, the bits and the grinder. I ended up using a cutting torch which made quick work of it.
If you have access to a torch, which you obviously do, it might’ve been worthwhile just heating that area up so it’s red hot and then letting it cool down then try drilling it because that would have reduced the hardness of the material and made it easier to drill. Depends on how accurate you need the holes whenever I could punch a hole in with the torch I’m all for it. Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking time to comment. It is much appreciated. It’s important for everyone to share their experiences.
Hard or hardened, if I may. I've recently seen "multi-material" bits at home despot that are outwardly the same as the masonry bits, but they have cutting geometry ground into the carbide, where the masonry ones seem to be ground without it.
I'm assuming this works on truck-spring to, I always have to torch drill on that stuff which ok since I'm not using truck-spring as truck-spring, but still like to get a round hole..........
Great video, very simple and easy to follow and i liked how your focus was on both cheap & easy to acquire drill bits as well as the tools needed to sharpen them. Almost every hobbyist has a either a bench grinder or disc grinder. Had never considered using the diamond tile discs for sharpening masonry bits to tackle drilling tool steel. If you broke a tap and needed it out, 3$ sounds like the bargain of the century for cutting it out.
Retired GM shoprat. Worked near a ring gear tapping machine. Broken, in hole taps were "set aside", and later "arced?" zapped? and ??? re-tapped. This was in the Lansing, Michigan "Forge-Plant" #2 rear axle assembly of 1969+ era. This process was utilized on Saturdays=overtime. As it was 'Splained to me..... "too much time and machining was invested to NOT attempt a repair.
yeah, this can be a little bit difficult to understand there’s a program called tube buddy I started using it to generate better thumbnails and titles when you put your title in in the video and it generates what the video should be called and tells you what colour you should use and a few other things always trying new things Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment
An elegantly cheap solution to an expensive problem. A few things could have been done a little different but overall it accomplished what I needed to know and I am well pleased with this video - GOOD WORK!
Thank you for your nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Please, next time if there’s something that could’ve been changed in the video or something you think could’ve been better. Let me know cause I’m going to be making another video on drilling hard material
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it but grinding carbide is a serious health hazard... wear a good mask for safety... I have done this masonry bit trick many times myself... works great ! 🤗 😎👍☘🍻
Thank you I did not add that in any of my comments. I’m generally a pretty safe person. I appreciate the tip thank you. Have a great day and thank you for commenting. It was much appreciated.
I leave the negative angle in, but sharpen the cutting edge. The tip will then not break so easily. Drilling force will be higher, but that is OK as most of the load on the edge is in compression, which the carbide can take. (If you look at drills for removing taps, they have negative edges.) You need to slow the speed, apply sulfur cutting oil, & drill steadily rather than peck so much. Contrary to popular opinion, "carbide" is not pure tungsten carbide; it is a composite of powdered carbide bonded with cobalt which can melt. You need to limit tool temperature with reduced speed & coolant, just like when using high speed steel. Be very careful when encountering intersecting cross-holes (as you did in the milling cutter)& at break-through.
iF YOU would of used a vacuum cleaner nozzle chances are you would only need one drill. I have found that the chip load is what trashes the carbide tipped masonry bit. Also, different brand name bits have different grade carbide which one is better than the other. Just speaking from experience Sir.
You’re right on all accounts the thing that would improve the cut ability or quality of cut would be rigidity This video in my other three videos on the same topic or design to show people that they can make these tool bits and cut harden material with very little cost involved and not that much experience If you watched any of my other videos especially the shop tour video, I have access to millions of dollars of equipment but all my friends that are not in the trade so I need to make videos for the people that don’t have all of the high-end equipment this was kind of my Answer to those types of scenarios Thank you very much for commenting and sharing. It is much appreciated. Ray
@@shopandmath I will definitely check out the other videos. So nice to meet another machinist Ray like myself Vic. I can relate to your methodology and logic. I have helped so many people who also do not have access to high dollar machine shop. I have one for you Sir. You can take a HSS drill bit and harden it to drill right through just about anything by heat treating it in Mercury. The bitch is you will go through at least a dozen or more bits before one will survive the plunge and temperature shock. Thank you Ray you made my day fella. Good luck and peace to you Sir. Vic P S carbide cement drills bits these days are really the bottom of the barrel in quality. They use to be really good when they were made in the USA. Years ago Ray. Over and out.
@@victoryfirst2878 Hi Vic I’ve never done any heat treating with mercury we have a heat treating oven and it is only used in the tool and die apprenticeship and maybe a few other classes One of the videos I was contemplating making, was taking a piece of heat, treatable metal cutting it in half making a turning tool out of 1/2 and machining the other piece non-heat treated piece into a shape to demonstrate the physical change of hardness on the same piece of metal Again, thank you for commenting. It is much appreciated. Have a nice day. Ray
It depends where you’re from as hard as that is to believe I made other videos using these bits and I get comments on both sides Maybe next time I’ll call them Concrete bit
I did not use coolant or oil. Originally I was going to do this using hand drill Creating the proper geometry on such a small drillbit seems to be getting a little bit more difficult with age the video might have me buying the bits premade from Dewalt or Milwaukee
How much did those drill bits cost and your time? Did you figure that in to the $3 cost? No cutting fluid? I don't quite understand how the dressing thing works. Does it just clean out the built up debris?
it was a total of three dollars because I used three bits The idea or concept of this was to drill hardy material as cost-effectively as I possibly could using only machines that I have at home This concept might be a little hard to understand and it it would take a long paragraph to explain properly I have access to millions of dollars worth of machining equipment and my buddies keep telling me yeah you can do this but what happens when I’m at home and I break a bolt working under a car or something like that how do I get that out? There is bits available that you can buy made by manufactured by Dewalt and Milwaukee They are considerably more expensive I hope this answered your question Ray
You weakened the tips on all the drills with the positive rake angle. Try next time with a slightly negative angle. Also, sharpen the end as you would a regular drill. Air blowing on it helps keep it cool.
I have a couple glass bits in my toolbox from when I was a little kid and I used to cut glass back in the day before we had all the fancy windows we used to have paint glass windows with the holes drilled in with the plastic handles to slide the windows open and closed I was going to make a video on using those as well or using them as an option, but I just couldn’t bring myself to damage one of those tools because I’ve had them for so long Thank you for sharing and thank you for commenting and taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
sorry about the misleading title as hard as it is to believe I didn’t make the title it was generated through tube Buddy, which is a TH-cam making program I guess I could make a video on friction welding Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Hi Steve, I’m not exactly sure what you’re asking There are some videos that use glass cutters, which are carbide tipped cutters on the end they have a flat on the contact area, and they’re kind of shaped like teardrop Back in the day, when windows were basically pieces of glass that slid back-and-forth inside of a plastic track There was a plastic bolt, basically that screwed through the window, which allowed you to slide the window open and closed The previous mentioned style of drill is what they used to drill through the glass I hope that was the question that you’re asking. If not, please feel free to comment again. Thank you Rhea
You should use coolant if you can flood the area. If you do not flood the area, the sudden heating and cooling on the carbide can cause thermal cracking. When your machining with a carbide tipped face mill on a CNC machine he will use coolant When you machine on a Bridgeport style machine, you don’t use coolant Because you can’t flood the tool I could not use coolant on the pedestal grinder I hope that this helped Ray
When drilling hardish material that isnt harder than your hss drills, i find that grinding a small flat at the edge (so its a neutral rake/cutting angle instead of positive) will let you drill a lot of materials that would otherwise just dull your drill in a few seconds, its slow though, chips dont curl up and evacuate as well as a normal grind.
Isn't it advised to preload your diamond grinding wheel with another substance beforehand, so that soft materials have a harder time clogging it up? Also, I know I'm not the only one that's pointed this out, but it sure felt like clickbait titling this _"How to _*_Drill Harden_*_ Steel",_ because not only did you mean "Hardened Steel", you also made *"Drill Harden"* the highlighted text. I thought I was getting a bloopers reel of the wrong ways to cut stainless or titanium and it work hardening. It was still interesting, so I watched and gave a 👍🏾. Though, the fact this video has been incorrectly titled for over a year now, gives me pause...
In replying to this comment if it comes off sounding negative that is not my intention The first question about preloading We don’t preload diamond wheels and also you’re not supposed to put them on a pedestal grinder either but I got a really good deal on this wheel off of Facebook marketplace. I thought it would be OK to do it for my five dollar investment. Clickbait about machining tools I honestly never thought that was a thing but I mean it could be but not for me I’m using a program called tube buddy it alters the name slightly sometimes just to get better results and it also advises on schematics of the thumbnail If there are is any false clicky type things, that was not my intention Once I post a video, I don’t go back and edit it or change it to do so is a difficult process and it’s very time-consuming Most mistakes are commented in the comment section, and I try to answer all of the comments I apologize if you feel that you’re misled, I was not my attention Ray
@@shopandmath I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I vaguely recall hearing about that app/program a while back. It's a generative algorithm used to trade out what's trending on the TH-cam algorithm, right? The utility certainly makes sense. Whether or not your content gets pushed by the algorithm to your subs, to previous viewers, and/or to people who've never seen your content before, is the difference between having a successful channel within a matter of months, or a dead or dying channel after several years... Oh absolutely, for virtually every interest on TH-cam with a community following, there's a Clickbait counterculture existing people to con gullible or uninformed enthusiasts of that topic... There are tons of clickbait toolhack channels. Where everything boils down to, using an angle grinder, a stick welder, and a handful of nuts and bolts to grind into odd shapes and weld together, badly DIY a tool nobody actually needs. Oh, and they don't even really weld in these, they somehow stitch together a weld bead doing ONLY tack welds, but they obfuscate their work with endless jump cuts and swapping similar looking items so that the public thinks they're doing something... There's machinist clickbait, where the typical scam is, they allegedly DIYed completely from scratch a metal lathe, mill, and other manual machinery, and if you keep watching until ??? you'll learn their secrets. Except, it's always lies... I mean, there are multiple TH-camrs who have done exactly that, but these clickbaiters are not them. A great method for spotting any of these charlatans at a glance, the video's title will mention something like "Genius invention" *where you'll find none of their gear would even qualify as an invention or even useful,* "Only expert machinist knows these", "Most people don't know this", "XX tools built from ___ (some innocuous items where there's effectively no chance they aren't lying) It's even worse in the energy storage portion of TH-cam. Mixed in with the overlapping li-po RC hobbyists, the off-grid sustainable living/renewable energy storage, #carlife/#vanlife/#buslife nomadic lifestyle vlogs, battery recycling/testing/[dis]charging, and electronics DIY/teardown/soldering/reverse-engineering communities, there's so many snakeoil salesmen hocking overunity/perpetual energy machines, and _"That amazing new hotness tech they don't want us to know about."_ Too many people regarding electricity as modern-day sorcery leaves a very wide door open for predators...
That certainly is a cost-effective way of doing it Switch off part about buying stuff from Amazon or the Temu as you never know what you get sometimes Thank you for sharing
Yes, a centre cutting end mill would work as well The concept that I was trying to do with the last three drill videos was to show that a person with the minimum amount of tools can drill hard and material with minimal cost If you look at the shop that this video is filmed in there are millions of dollars of equipment and much better ways of drilling the hole in a end mill In my next drilling video, I will try to explain that concept better Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. It is much appreciated.
yes, it is possible to go to cobalt drill. They can be a little bit. Pricey, there are a few other brands that make carbide tip drills that drill freely. Milwaukee and Dewalt Bosch makes a set.
from chilli that’s awesome Thank you for letting me know where you’re from. I appreciate that it. It’s kind of cool and thank you for taking the time to comment with a nice comment. It is so much appreciated. Thank you Ray
you are correct they do work well I have the ones from Milwaukee and from Dewalt both of those brands in my personal opinion I would still want to add more relief to the back clearance angle Thank you for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
All the bed frames I've ever tried to drill are very high carbon and hard as hell. They can be cut easily with an abrasive saw BUT welds will be very brittle and crack easily. I no longer bother to scavenge them. CV axles are as tough as a boiled owl's beak too... 🦉🦉😤
I have drilled many holes into harden steal using cheap masonry drills. [0-1] Rockwell Range of C65. The end mill you drilled was "High Speed Steel End Mill Hardness" = Rockwell Range of C66~68. * I only used very short masonry drills. * I only slightly touched the "front face" at (90'), not removing any of the "brazing" holding the carbide insert. * I only slightly touched the "top face" to make a sharp cutting edge. [Not Sharp].. * You sharpened your masonry drill using (drilling non-harden tool steel) spade drill theory. Drilling Hardened Steel With Masonry Bits th-cam.com/video/dWEN_MxhGqQ/w-d-xo.html * Video: [2:17/9:57] Spade Drill used to drill "soft steel". How to drill harden steel th-cam.com/video/kX8Te5ch1Z0/w-d-xo.html * Video: [8:35/9:59] Shows a shattered insert. * Video: [8:55/9:59] Shows drill chips coming out of the E/M center drilled hole. Drilling into a "partial hole" !!!. VERY Dangerous Procedure: * Video: [8:03/9:59] Shows using a "Very Long" masonry drill only having a 'soft cold roll steel drill shank'. * Under extreme drill pressure, what will happen if the E/M rotates in the very small "V-Jaws" in the vice ?
when we’re talking about angles through generally three angles that people are going to talk about a positive angle will be going towards the backside of the cutter. The neutral angle would be perpendicular or 90° to the cutting angle and a negative angle would be a angle that leans towards the cutting edge. It is a little difficult to describe. I hope this helps. Ray
Best way to hard tool a hole... carbide drill and constant compressed air blowing those hard chips out and cooling the hardened tool steel. Drill at a fairly fast rpm, depending on drill diameter, and peck... cut and get out, cut and get out, all while using your air hose or even a spray mist with the coolant shut off so its just blowing cool air. Carbide needs some rpm, especially smaller drill bits. You can use a good American made 10% cobalt bit if interupted cuts are involved, bc interupted cuts will destroy carbide. But you can't run the cobalt as fast as carbide. Flood cobalt bits with coolant. I'd say 800 rpm for a 1/4" carbide bit, 300 rpm for a good American made 10% cobalt 1/4" bit. Might want to ride your quill lock just a little when breaking thru so you dont knock the corners off your bits.
That’s a good explanation. Thank you for sharing. Most cobalt drills at 5%. I haven’t heard of a 10% one. Do you know the manufacturers name? There are many types of cobalt drill bits, but the most common are M42 cobalt drill bits (composed of 8% cobalt) and M35 cobalt drill bits (5% cobalt)
@@shopandmath You are so welcome and I hope you have good results. I've been retired for about 5 years so I cant recall the brands that make hss-cobalt 10% but I know they were American made. You got my curiosty up so I've kind of been looking around on the web with no luck, only 8% like you said. I will check my tooling later on to see if I have anything that will jog my memory. The 8% should work too with a little slower rpm and flood coolant. I could always tell a big difference between American hss-cobalt and imported, in all grades. I see MoMax makes a 10% but all I've found there are square bits, drill blanks, and part-off blades. Maybe try TRW Putnam or Cleveland Greenfield?
When I use a masonry bit and sharpen it I also do the leading edge that is the top part, as Those bits are never accurate in my estimation, and they never give me a true clean cut. I sharpen them as I sharpen a standard HSS bit.
Thank you for your comment and thank you for taking the time to comment If you look through the comment section, you’d be surprised how many people say that you can’t do this or that this doesn’t work
You are correct. I am guilty of dumbing down my comparison I was just trying to convey a comparison of metal that people would be able to understand Thank you for taking the time to watch the video and comment. It is much appreciated. Ray
you are most likely correct The reason for me doing this is the type of videos that I shoot are one and done style ideally, I would’ve he treated my own piece of material brought it to the hardness tester, but I’ve had people tell me that I swapped the material out which obviously isn’t true but still it kind of puts the I’m being scammed in the air so I decided to choose something which everyone can identify with and see. I understand that that’s hard because it’s an endmill Thank you for contributing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
A couple people have commented about the diamond discs for the Dremel. Honestly, I never even thought about that. I am going to have to give it a try. Thank you for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
@@shopandmath I use magnifying goggles to get a really close look. I either lock the drill or the dremel in a vice for more control and the diamond will shape the carbide very quickly. It is a good idea to clear any steel and brazing with a normal cutoff disk first because the diamond will not cut it well.
I always save broken carbide stubs sharpen them like a flat screwdriver adding the relief like a regular drill but much flatter 150 deg and run relatively slow never over 800
thank you for sharing And thank you for commenting, and taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. The little things we save that most people would consider scrap can be quite valuable, especially if you resourceful
Some useful video ideas are how to dial in a micrometer or how to grind drills I graduated the course and struggled with these 2 topics. Great video tho!!!
I have videos on both of those topics. In the how to read a micrometer, it shows taking a micrometre apart and what you have to do to adjust it to dial it in or reset The drill making video is older one of the first videos that I created. Good hearing from you Sawaab Have you seen the new campus?
sorry, I don’t know what type of carbide or grade of carbide is in these drillbits I was just trying to demonstrate how for very little cost at home and you can drill through very hard steel. I would’ve brought the Anmol up to the hardness tester to find out the exact hardness one. Unfortunately, we just moved it and it’s still in lockdown mode or transportation mode. I pick those Drill bits up from the restore, which is the cheapest place. I could find they only cost me a dollar each no tax Canadian. If you watch the shop tour video you will see that I have access to millions of dollars worth of equipment and an excellent environment to machine almost anything my friends keep telling me that I need to make videos that the average person with the most basic tools can still drill out a broken tap or Harden Bolt at home. Sorry I couldn’t answer your question. Ray
Cobalt is a little bit better than straight high speed steel but carbide is vastly superior In this video, I also didn’t adjust the speed the feed or use coolant and oil. I was trying to do an example of not doing this in a machine shop, but doing it in your garage at home.
It seems one reason the bits were breaking was you were using a drill press. If it were solid mounted in a Bridgeport, or similar machine, I think you could have got away with one bit. Your masonry bit is also fairly long, letting it wander. It's an interesting concept, in the case I ever have to drill something super hard. Wasn't that a HSS end mill that you were trying to drill? how would you drill a similar 7/8ths/1" (whatever diameter it is) pure carbide end mill??
You might have had a Hastloy insert which is still harder than HSS. Stellite (I worked at a Union Carbide plant in 1966) where stellite was manufactured. It was only a few points below most tungsten carbide. It was hard. I don't remember the exact chemistry but it had cobalt, chromium, and ???? It was not machinable, so it had to be cast and them finished by diamond grinding. We made many turbine blades for jets using Hastaloy which would maintain strength and stability in a red heat. We made thousands of valve seats for Caterpillar by casting rings then grinding to final shape.
It depends They generally only do diamond coating real diamond coating on carbide. The diamond coating is a throwback from about 15 years ago. It’s a technology that they used on the space shuttle to deflect heat. On high-speed, steel or cobalt it wouldn’t do anything Think of coatings Like a chocolate covered cake those small Vashon cakes or Joe Louis the coating on the outside is hard very hard and the material behind. It is soft like a cake. The backing material must be very hard and tough to hold onto the coding on the outside to prevent it from flaking and cracking off I’m hoping that I explain this well articulated enough that you can understand what I’m trying to get at Ray
3 in one oil works great in s shop, and will preserve your tools against heat damage. Heat is especially a factor with brazed tool bits. Putting a nice sharp edge on any drill bit is easy if you have a diamond flat sharpener, in the same idea as a 3 by 8 inch stone.
if you don’t have a diamond wheel, some people have been commenting about using a small diamond wheel on a Dremel now I personally have never thought of that, and I will be incorporating that in on one of my next videos just to see how it turns out Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
@@shopandmathWhy didn't you use cutting oil or any kind of lube when you drilled that hole?? That and slow speed, you probably would have completed the hole with the first drill bit.
I'm curious about the runout in the diamond grinding wheel on startup. Seems to present itself again during the dressing operation and also in the 8x footage you see it a bit as the drills is sharpened.
I was hoping to learn something...but I'm convinced you don't really know what you're doing. You should watch a video on drilling hardened steel before you try and give advice.
Coolant or oil would have been preferred I was doing it on a drill press and didn’t want to make a mess My parameters for this video Number one accessibility for everybody with limited tools (someone with a drill press, or hand drill and a grinder could make these drillbits for around $10) Second Pick material that everybody understood was extremely hard. Unfortunately, our hardness tester was in shipping mode from the move still And I could not tell you the exact hardness of the material. So I picked something that is easily recognized by everyone and they understand that it’s extremely hard. Third Demonstrate an easy and basic set up I currently have three videos, including this one on drilling harden material. Do you have any ideas for my next video? Thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated. Ray
I use a diamond hand file I purchased from Amazon to hand sharpen the masonry bits to drill holes in hardened steel. Also use a guide to keep the bit centered when starting the hole as a prick punch obviously doesn’t do its job.
HSS Centre drills and spotting drills are also useless. I have had good results using the diamond file on a Leatherman to touch up the edges on carbide tips - I've carried one on my belt for 35 years. If you need to reshape the carbide, the diamond grinding wheel wins.
@@russelldold4827 learn something new today I didn’t know that the Leatherman came with a diamond file. I will have to see if mine has one Thank you for sharing Ray
Hey this video is cool. Would you have any tips or ideas on best ways to drill out or remove. A broken piece of Easy out bolt extractor tool if possible Thanks 🙏
I would use the same technique that I used in one of my previous videos on how to remove remove a tap by using a guide plate th-cam.com/video/rSShHH2Us5Q/w-d-xo.htmlsi=l5ookITZoDb7UuJn Best of luck let me know how it goes Ray
Very impressive: all for the cost of a few masonry drill bits! I am going to try to re-grind the masonry drill bits using the small diamond discs used in Dremel type tools as I already have them and only need to drill 4mm holes in hardened steel. Many thanks.
![6 Practical Drill bit Sharpening Hacks !!! [Subtitle]](/img/n.gif)
My shop instructor taught us that the fastest way to damage any cutting tool was to stress it thermally. I'm surprised that a fluid wasn't used to help transfer heat away from the cutting edges.
I'm surprised he hasn't responded to this.
Wakodahatchee Chris
Your shopping instructor is correct
Coolant or lubrication should’ve been used
Carbide does not need cutting fluid. In fact cutting fluid can be detrimental because it can cool unevenly. Carbide thrives on heat and pressure and the pair can produce a mirror finish.
@@angusmurray3767 Agreed not to mention an EDM drill should be used
@@angusmurray3767the only problem i see is being this is brazed carbide there is a possibility of damaging the the connection between the carbide/braze/steel
There are small diameter CBN & PCD, (diamond), drum bits available which work well for both creating/modifying carbide cutting tips which don't cost a fortune & work nicely for making positive rake cutting edges.
One of my fav go to's for rough cutting steel, (when the piece won't fit in my saw(s)/shop is an ancient Skil 77 worm drive w/ a diamond masonry blade too worn to cleanly cut tile in my wet saw.
Been using them both w/ a an air nozzle for clearing slag & cooling for 15+ years; neither the 50 yr old saw or the 'dead' blade know the word quit.
A note of caution when grinding carbide, (or cobalt drills). Carbide contains cobalt.
Cobalt is NOT healthy for your lungs OR body.
I'm struggling w/ how to make a new diamond abrasive based grinder safe, right now.
I try to batch my carbide grinding to lessen the prep & clean up work.
I vacuum the grinder/saw & area before, during & after the work and wear a cartridge type respirator in the during & after phase, then go outside & blow off my body.
You don't want an accumulation of the stuff in your shop. Cobalt is mildly radioactive, but has enough 'buzz' to mess up your life, down the road.
Good vid, I've found masonry bits to come in handy, at times. I just saw some carbide tipped HSS bits on Ali Express for a good price.
Don't bad mouth Chinese stuff until you try it; there is some excellant quality tooling out there, at a fraction of US price. (CNC has been the great equalizer & put a turbo'd the improvement in Chinese products, compared to Japan's 20-30 improvement path, post WWII.
Agree with Chinese tools, same quality at prices that I can afford as against 3 or 4X in the local retailers.
HARDENED not harden
Word. I was like, how the hell do you harden steel with a drill bit?
Cool video though 👍🏼
Hard-on
Ok, well I watched this expecting to be able to harden steel to be as hard as a drill.
Every where I go , I see traits of my English teacher
minor correction: it is "hardened steel" - you left the 'd' off which confuses my dyslexic and OCD brian 🙂
About 50 people commented on this already and they’re correct and you’re correct. I originally had a different title for this video and I was using a new program or software called tube buddy
It changes the names of the video to produce better algorithms or something along those lines and it also told me to change the colours of the thumbnail I like trying new things so I tried it out and this is what it came up with so that’s the title of the video
And I can’t remember what the original title was called now that I’m trying to think about it
Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Would a cutting fluid of some type have made a difference in the breakage ? I am assuming that the bits get hot and that’s contributing to breakage , but just curious if in fact the heat does play a part and if you have used cutting fluid in the past .
Yes, cutting fluid would help all the demos that I’ve done in my three hardness , drilling videos were worst. Case scenarios just demonstrate the ability of hand, sharpening Concrete bits
If you have the ability to use coolant and air at the same time, that would be probably the best situation for most steals if it is an extremely hard steel, and you can increase the rigidity and use oil, if the temperature is not excessive, that would also be a really good situation
I hope this helps
Ray
@@shopandmath Had a former Alanson, Michigan friend who made fixtures for testing wiring harnesses. Their materials were "plastic-non conductive". Elmer LaTocha taught me to "PECK DRILL"= CUT AND REMOVE BIT, SPINNINIG TO AIR COOLTHE BIT, THEN "PECK IT SLIGHTLY DEEPER, AND REPEAT. Cuss-ed as I am I needed to "see what NOT, following this method DID! THE HEAT OF FRICTION DRILLING YIELDS A LARGER HOLE IN THE "PLASTICS' " MATERIAL. We as a society "grow in knowledge by "Paying IT Forward".
You should know that you could use a "green" grinding wheel to grind carbide.
Green wheels will work but a diamond wheel is the best
It’s kind of like using a paintbrush to paint the car, or gun one is obviously better than the other
This was interesting. I'm 35 years as a glazier, and when the tile guys on jobsites started using the newer hard ceramic tile, we had a tough time getting through it with basic masonry bits. And we all broke tiles soon as we turned on the hammer function of our drills. So,we had to start using the carbide tipped spearpoint bits. These were and still are expensive, so I started using my little tabletop Harbor Freight tile saw which has a built in water tray to sharpen my bits. Naturally, other glaziers asked me to sharpen theirs, too. The smart ones, that is, who didn't want to spend ridiculous money on new ones for every job. Sure, I could have built the price of the bits into the quote,but where's the fun in that? I learned to copy the angle of a new one, too,so they would function well. If you sharpen them at a 90 degree angle, they just heat up and bust loose from their braze.
Porcelain tile ...use diamond bits
@@whirlwind8825 me and whose money? They're cost prohibitive.
Very innovative thinking
Use hollow diamond-grit bits on tile & glass. Back both with another scrap piece & drill through tile & only partially through the scrap when drilling to avoid break-through disasters.
Thirty year toolmaker, Carbide and turpentine for lubricant. Like butter
Have to try that thank you for sharing
An outstanding presentation! Special thanks for being considerate and lowering the irritating background volume. 99% of youtube videos have a volume which destroys the eardrums and renders the useful speech useless.
If anyone want's to try this, it's much cheaper to get a diamond circular saw blade.
It will be a bit coarse but will work to grind carbide into shape.
I've been using masonry drills to drill through broken taps and hardened carbon steel since the late 1970's, well before solid carbide drill bits were easily available (or affordable)
I do the same, even made a blade sharpener out of a old tile cutter as the speed is only 180 rpm
Same, worked for Caterpillar my job was removing broke taps bolts and studs.
@@bernardkinsky1637 Neat, probably works much better than mounting a circular saw upside down and spinning at high rpm
I think you mean hardened steel. To drill harden steel as a compound verb you could work harden it with the drill bit cutting edge. To drill hardened steel you can use a stellite drill, if you know how to use it. Carbide tipped drills are not adequate.
Stellite, is Stellite, NOT HSS, NOT STEEL IN ANY WAY.
You are 100%, correct?
I was just trying to do a simple comparison on material compared to other materials
And could’ve done a better job doing so
thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Ray
I think you mean, "to drill harden-ED steel", right. Otherwise, the title has two different meanings.
you are correct
i’m using a program that suggests what the title for the video should be and multiple other things sometimes it works really well sometimes it doesn’t
I don’t remember what the original title was. It was something like high hardened, steel or how to drill steel that is hard I think it had difficulty in the phrase as well, but when it came out with that, I said not a problem copy paste and went into Canva and redid all of the artwork that they suggested as well. I hope the title didn’t take away from the content, you enjoyed the video. Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
I often need to drill a #6 machine screw body drill thru stainless, and HSS is not cutting the mustard. (pun intended. Sorry.) Do I just need better HSS, or maybe cobalt?
Stainless steel can be tricky. It depends on what grade it is and it also depends if it’s been work hardened.
If it is being work hard, solid carbide has a very difficult time getting through it. If it’s not work hard, I would recommend a cobalt drill or maybe a split point Walter drill. Hopefully this helps.
Ray
Harden is a verb, not an adjective. You want "hardened".
Ahhhh, hahahahaha. I did read it as, how to drill harden steel, as in how to harden steel by drilling in it. Done that been there. Drilling 30mm hole in Hardox and even the carbide didn't work on it, fun times... :D :D
Impressed. Would be fun to drill some junk - discarded- no longer used safes. :)
Just sharpen a negative angle on the tip of your masonry bit. It takes less then minute. Try it. You find it works just as good if not better.
thank you for sharing and I will have to try that tip. Next time I sharpen a bit.
Ray
what is the technical name for those diamond dressing sticks? when i do a search for diamond dressing stick i get all kinds of results. what is the material in the stick called? Thanks! I'll be dressing a Norton surface grinding type diamond wheel
Even if the cutting edge lengths are off by even a slight amount the drill will wander then try and bring itself back to the centre resulting in triangular holes and a broken drill bit for the unwary. In my course I barely passed the lessons on twist drill sharpening by hand. Our lessons were as good as what the instructors were capable of. In fact, all of our basic lessons on milling machine cutting bit sharpening and twist drill sharpening should have been an entire stand alone course rather than 8 total hours of theory and practice, & let's move on. My other complaint is that there was not one word on line boring, nor rigging which is a required competency for being able to function in any job shop.
Our year one apprentices have to sharpen a 60° threading tool
And a drill
You would be surprised that the number of apprentices that do not have to sharpen drills anymore. I would say around 80% don’t ever have to sharpen a drill. When the drills do they go get a new one or a sharpened one they have people in the tool room that sharpened and drills whatever cutting tools they use.
Should work on dovetail, tenon saw, miter saw and other back saw plates, etc., as well as any other hand saw saw plate, all of which which are made of spring steel.
The little diamond wheels for your Dremel from harbor freight are quite useful for small jobs
I have not tried that, but it is a good suggestion for the next video. Thank you for sharing. Much appreciated.
Ray
Lol I could have used this info a while back. I had to put holes in a new blade for my friends tractor bucket. That was an adventure. I made slow progress with cobalt bits, constantly resharpening, I actually enjoy sharpening drill bits. The whole world disappears and its just me, the bits and the grinder. I ended up using a cutting torch which made quick work of it.
If you have access to a torch, which you obviously do, it might’ve been worthwhile just heating that area up so it’s red hot and then letting it cool down then try drilling it because that would have reduced the hardness of the material and made it easier to drill. Depends on how accurate you need the holes whenever I could punch a hole in with the torch I’m all for it.
Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking time to comment. It is much appreciated. It’s important for everyone to share their experiences.
Hard or hardened, if I may. I've recently seen "multi-material" bits at home despot that are outwardly the same as the masonry bits, but they have cutting geometry ground into the carbide, where the masonry ones seem to be ground without it.
Yes, a lot of the companies that make quality tools also make them as well. I have some from Dewalt and Milwaukee
They have a neutral, rake angle
C'MON MAN first DRILL BIT
made in USA 👍🏻
Cobalt bit is made where ????
???????????????????????????????????????? this started WRONG
The title is missing an ED (hardened)
Thanks for the easy to understand explanation. That makes perfect sense to me. 👍🏻👍🏻
thank you for your nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated.
Ray.
Carbide bit slowest speed you can constast pressure...had to do reapairs on machines many times
I'm assuming this works on truck-spring to, I always have to torch drill on that stuff which ok since I'm not using truck-spring as truck-spring, but still like to get a round hole..........
Thank you for your comment. I’m not exactly sure what truck spinning is.?
It might be called something different in my area
Try using lub coolent spray, it may help.
Not sure how I landed here but I’m blown away you cut that hole on $3 and a brain! Well done sir.
Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Great video, very simple and easy to follow and i liked how your focus was on both cheap & easy to acquire drill bits as well as the tools needed to sharpen them. Almost every hobbyist has a either a bench grinder or disc grinder.
Had never considered using the diamond tile discs for sharpening masonry bits to tackle drilling tool steel. If you broke a tap and needed it out, 3$ sounds like the bargain of the century for cutting it out.
Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated.
Ray
Retired GM shoprat. Worked near a ring gear tapping machine. Broken, in hole taps were "set aside", and later "arced?" zapped? and ??? re-tapped. This was in the Lansing, Michigan "Forge-Plant" #2 rear axle assembly of 1969+ era. This process was utilized on Saturdays=overtime. As it was 'Splained to me..... "too much time and machining was invested to NOT attempt a repair.
Mate is there something wrong with your keyboard? It's hardened steel.
And don't get me started on "I've sped up the video" ............
yeah, this can be a little bit difficult to understand there’s a program called tube buddy I started using it to generate better thumbnails and titles when you put your title in in the video and it generates what the video should be called and tells you what colour you should use and a few other things always trying new things
Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment
How to drill a hole with hardened steel? Simple! With a harder drill bit
An elegantly cheap solution to an expensive problem. A few things could have been done a little different but overall it accomplished what I needed to know and I am well pleased with this video - GOOD WORK!
Thank you for your nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Please, next time if there’s something that could’ve been changed in the video or something you think could’ve been better. Let me know cause I’m going to be making another video on drilling hard material
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it but grinding carbide is a serious health hazard... wear a good mask for safety...
I have done this masonry bit trick many times myself... works great ! 🤗
😎👍☘🍻
Thank you I did not add that in any of my comments. I’m generally a pretty safe person. I appreciate the tip thank you. Have a great day and thank you for commenting. It was much appreciated.
I leave the negative angle in, but sharpen the cutting edge. The tip will then not break so easily. Drilling force will be higher, but that is OK as most of the load on the edge is in compression, which the carbide can take. (If you look at drills for removing taps, they have negative edges.) You need to slow the speed, apply sulfur cutting oil, & drill steadily rather than peck so much. Contrary to popular opinion, "carbide" is not pure tungsten carbide; it is a composite of powdered carbide bonded with cobalt which can melt. You need to limit tool temperature with reduced speed & coolant, just like when using high speed steel.
Be very careful when encountering intersecting cross-holes (as you did in the milling cutter)& at break-through.
Those are all good tips. Thank you for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Ray
hardened perhaps? unless harden is some steel type i've never heard of.
iF YOU would of used a vacuum cleaner nozzle chances are you would only need one drill. I have found that the chip load is what trashes the carbide tipped masonry bit. Also, different brand name bits have different grade carbide which one is better than the other. Just speaking from experience Sir.
You’re right on all accounts the thing that would improve the cut ability or quality of cut would be rigidity
This video in my other three videos on the same topic or design to show people that they can make these tool bits and cut harden material with very little cost involved and not that much experience
If you watched any of my other videos especially the shop tour video, I have access to millions of dollars of equipment but all my friends that are not in the trade so I need to make videos for the people that don’t have all of the high-end equipment this was kind of my Answer to those types of scenarios
Thank you very much for commenting and sharing. It is much appreciated.
Ray
@@shopandmath I will definitely check out the other videos. So nice to meet another machinist Ray like myself Vic. I can relate to your methodology and logic. I have helped so many people who also do not have access to high dollar machine shop. I have one for you Sir. You can take a HSS drill bit and harden it to drill right through just about anything by heat treating it in Mercury. The bitch is you will go through at least a dozen or more bits before one will survive the plunge and temperature shock. Thank you Ray you made my day fella. Good luck and peace to you Sir. Vic
P S carbide cement drills bits these days are really the bottom of the barrel in quality. They use to be really good when they were made in the USA. Years ago Ray. Over and out.
@@victoryfirst2878
Hi Vic
I’ve never done any heat treating with mercury we have a heat treating oven and it is only used in the tool and die apprenticeship and maybe a few other classes
One of the videos I was contemplating making, was taking a piece of heat, treatable metal cutting it in half making a turning tool out of 1/2 and machining the other piece non-heat treated piece into a shape to demonstrate the physical change of hardness on the same piece of metal
Again, thank you for commenting. It is much appreciated. Have a nice day.
Ray
@@shopandmath Good luck with your endeavors Sir.
Note to self, buy carbide drill bits in the first place to drill through steel and consider jobber sets of common sizes. Got it.
They are .... Masonry bits , ..... Not Masonary ..... you should know that .
It depends where you’re from as hard as that is to believe I made other videos using these bits and I get comments on both sides
Maybe next time I’ll call them Concrete bit
I really like that lighted magnifier headset you got. I've not seen that style before. Can you tell me where to buy that style? Thank you!
The magnifier was bought from Amazon. Sorry I don’t have a link for it.
What? No coolant?😂 informative video: the width of the “spade” of each bit was not compromised in your modifications?
I did not use coolant or oil. Originally I was going to do this using hand drill
Creating the proper geometry on such a small drillbit seems to be getting a little bit more difficult with age the video might have me buying the bits premade from Dewalt or Milwaukee
Great video, very informative. What interests me is your safety helmet. Who is it made by & can you supply a link, cheers.
I think you’re talking about the magnifying headset?
I picked that up from an Amazon return store I think so it must be available on Amazon
How much did those drill bits cost and your time? Did you figure that in to the $3 cost? No cutting fluid? I don't quite understand how the dressing thing works. Does it just clean out the built up debris?
it was a total of three dollars because I used three bits
The idea or concept of this was to drill hardy material as cost-effectively as I possibly could using only machines that I have at home
This concept might be a little hard to understand and it it would take a long paragraph to explain properly
I have access to millions of dollars worth of machining equipment and my buddies keep telling me yeah you can do this but what happens when I’m at home and I break a bolt working under a car or something like that how do I get that out?
There is bits available that you can buy made by manufactured by Dewalt and Milwaukee
They are considerably more expensive
I hope this answered your question
Ray
You weakened the tips on all the drills with the positive rake angle.
Try next time with a slightly negative angle.
Also, sharpen the end as you would a regular drill.
Air blowing on it helps keep it cool.
Thank you for commenting and thanks for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
I have used carbide tipped glass and tile cutting drill bits for cutting hardened steel without reshaping the bit.
I have a couple glass bits in my toolbox from when I was a little kid and I used to cut glass back in the day before we had all the fancy windows we used to have paint glass windows with the holes drilled in with the plastic handles to slide the windows open and closed
I was going to make a video on using those as well or using them as an option, but I just couldn’t bring myself to damage one of those tools because I’ve had them for so long
Thank you for sharing and thank you for commenting and taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
@@shopandmath You can get a set of 6 bits from Harbor Freight for less then $10.
Ray, once again a very informative post, thanks!
I am giving you 2 thumbs up because it worked on something I have tried to find a solution to for days. Excellent advice!!!
I thought this video shows a technique how to harden steel with "drill hardening" process. Lmao
sorry about the misleading title as hard as it is to believe I didn’t make the title it was generated through tube Buddy, which is a TH-cam making program
I guess I could make a video on friction welding
Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Where is the diamond glass cutting steel?😂😊
Hi Steve, I’m not exactly sure what you’re asking
There are some videos that use glass cutters, which are carbide tipped cutters on the end they have a flat on the contact area, and they’re kind of shaped like teardrop
Back in the day, when windows were basically pieces of glass that slid back-and-forth inside of a plastic track
There was a plastic bolt, basically that screwed through the window, which allowed you to slide the window open and closed
The previous mentioned style of drill is what they used to drill through the glass
I hope that was the question that you’re asking. If not, please feel free to comment again.
Thank you
Rhea
you really should use lubricant/coolant on a high speed diamond abrasive wheel
You should use coolant if you can flood the area. If you do not flood the area, the sudden heating and cooling on the carbide can cause thermal cracking.
When your machining with a carbide tipped face mill on a CNC machine he will use coolant
When you machine on a Bridgeport style machine, you don’t use coolant
Because you can’t flood the tool
I could not use coolant on the pedestal grinder
I hope that this helped
Ray
When drilling hardish material that isnt harder than your hss drills, i find that grinding a small flat at the edge (so its a neutral rake/cutting angle instead of positive) will let you drill a lot of materials that would otherwise just dull your drill in a few seconds, its slow though, chips dont curl up and evacuate as well as a normal grind.
Obv isn't gonna go through actually hard stuff but its come in handy with materials that just wouldn't drill well but were softer than the hss
I do this to drill through saw plate, it's a cheap and effective option.
spa drills have a purpose.....
HardenED steel
Isn't it advised to preload your diamond grinding wheel with another substance beforehand, so that soft materials have a harder time clogging it up?
Also, I know I'm not the only one that's pointed this out, but it sure felt like clickbait titling this _"How to _*_Drill Harden_*_ Steel",_ because not only did you mean "Hardened Steel", you also made *"Drill Harden"* the highlighted text. I thought I was getting a bloopers reel of the wrong ways to cut stainless or titanium and it work hardening.
It was still interesting, so I watched and gave a 👍🏾. Though, the fact this video has been incorrectly titled for over a year now, gives me pause...
In replying to this comment if it comes off sounding negative that is not my intention
The first question about preloading
We don’t preload diamond wheels and also you’re not supposed to put them on a pedestal grinder either but I got a really good deal on this wheel off of Facebook marketplace. I thought it would be OK to do it for my five dollar investment.
Clickbait about machining tools I honestly never thought that was a thing but I mean it could be but not for me
I’m using a program called tube buddy it alters the name slightly sometimes just to get better results and it also advises on schematics of the thumbnail
If there are is any false clicky type things, that was not my intention
Once I post a video, I don’t go back and edit it or change it to do so is a difficult process and it’s very time-consuming
Most mistakes are commented in the comment section, and I try to answer all of the comments
I apologize if you feel that you’re misled, I was not my attention
Ray
@@shopandmath I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I vaguely recall hearing about that app/program a while back. It's a generative algorithm used to trade out what's trending on the TH-cam algorithm, right? The utility certainly makes sense. Whether or not your content gets pushed by the algorithm to your subs, to previous viewers, and/or to people who've never seen your content before, is the difference between having a successful channel within a matter of months, or a dead or dying channel after several years...
Oh absolutely, for virtually every interest on TH-cam with a community following, there's a Clickbait counterculture existing people to con gullible or uninformed enthusiasts of that topic...
There are tons of clickbait toolhack channels. Where everything boils down to, using an angle grinder, a stick welder, and a handful of nuts and bolts to grind into odd shapes and weld together, badly DIY a tool nobody actually needs. Oh, and they don't even really weld in these, they somehow stitch together a weld bead doing ONLY tack welds, but they obfuscate their work with endless jump cuts and swapping similar looking items so that the public thinks they're doing something...
There's machinist clickbait, where the typical scam is, they allegedly DIYed completely from scratch a metal lathe, mill, and other manual machinery, and if you keep watching until ??? you'll learn their secrets. Except, it's always lies... I mean, there are multiple TH-camrs who have done exactly that, but these clickbaiters are not them. A great method for spotting any of these charlatans at a glance, the video's title will mention something like "Genius invention" *where you'll find none of their gear would even qualify as an invention or even useful,* "Only expert machinist knows these", "Most people don't know this", "XX tools built from ___ (some innocuous items where there's effectively no chance they aren't lying)
It's even worse in the energy storage portion of TH-cam. Mixed in with the overlapping li-po RC hobbyists, the off-grid sustainable living/renewable energy storage, #carlife/#vanlife/#buslife nomadic lifestyle vlogs, battery recycling/testing/[dis]charging, and electronics DIY/teardown/soldering/reverse-engineering communities, there's so many snakeoil salesmen hocking overunity/perpetual energy machines, and _"That amazing new hotness tech they don't want us to know about."_
Too many people regarding electricity as modern-day sorcery leaves a very wide door open for predators...
Is the shank part of the end mill actually hardened though?
Yes, this end mill is through hardened
I bought a pack of 15 each 5/32" Diamond Hole Saw Drill Bits from Amazon for $7 and used just one to drill out a broken screw extractor.
That certainly is a cost-effective way of doing it
Switch off part about buying stuff from Amazon or the Temu as you never know what you get sometimes
Thank you for sharing
I would have just used an end cutting carbide end mill.
Yes, a centre cutting end mill would work as well
The concept that I was trying to do with the last three drill videos was to show that a person with the minimum amount of tools can drill hard and material with minimal cost
If you look at the shop that this video is filmed in there are millions of dollars of equipment and much better ways of drilling the hole in a end mill
In my next drilling video, I will try to explain that concept better
Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. It is much appreciated.
Is it possible to just buy a cobalt drill bit for metal if I can't make it?
yes, it is possible to go to cobalt drill. They can be a little bit. Pricey, there are a few other brands that make carbide tip drills that drill freely. Milwaukee and Dewalt Bosch makes a set.
Concise and thorough! Thank you and greetings from Patagonia Chile!!
from chilli that’s awesome
Thank you for letting me know where you’re from. I appreciate that it. It’s kind of cool and thank you for taking the time to comment with a nice comment. It is so much appreciated.
Thank you
Ray
very nice education my friend , thank you so much.
I’m glad that you enjoyed the video
And thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Ray
You can buy them. Called Artu titanium carbide tipped drill. Clean holes through hardened files.
you are correct they do work well I have the ones from Milwaukee and from Dewalt both of those brands in my personal opinion I would still want to add more relief to the back clearance angle
Thank you for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Thank you for explaining this. Bed frame angle iron was eating all my drills.
I’m glad that you like the video. Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
i love bed frames. I blow a hole in them with my cutting torch...
iron and soft steel used in bed frames is very soft and shouldnt present any problem unless your using the wrong bit or running it backwards
All the bed frames I've ever tried to drill are very high carbon and hard as hell. They can be cut easily with an abrasive saw BUT welds will be very brittle and crack easily. I no longer bother to scavenge them. CV axles are as tough as a boiled owl's beak too... 🦉🦉😤
I have drilled many holes into harden steal using cheap masonry drills. [0-1] Rockwell Range of C65.
The end mill you drilled was "High Speed Steel End Mill Hardness" = Rockwell Range of C66~68.
* I only used very short masonry drills.
* I only slightly touched the "front face" at (90'), not removing any of the "brazing" holding the carbide insert.
* I only slightly touched the "top face" to make a sharp cutting edge. [Not Sharp]..
* You sharpened your masonry drill using (drilling non-harden tool steel) spade drill theory.
Drilling Hardened Steel With Masonry Bits
th-cam.com/video/dWEN_MxhGqQ/w-d-xo.html
* Video: [2:17/9:57] Spade Drill used to drill "soft steel".
How to drill harden steel
th-cam.com/video/kX8Te5ch1Z0/w-d-xo.html
* Video: [8:35/9:59] Shows a shattered insert.
* Video: [8:55/9:59] Shows drill chips coming out of the E/M center drilled hole. Drilling into a "partial hole" !!!.
VERY Dangerous Procedure:
* Video: [8:03/9:59] Shows using a "Very Long" masonry drill only having a 'soft cold roll steel drill shank'.
* Under extreme drill pressure, what will happen if the E/M rotates in the very small "V-Jaws" in the vice ?
👍
I'll take that night and day. 🔥
I didn't understand the positive and negative angle thing.
when we’re talking about angles through generally three angles that people are going to talk about a positive angle will be going towards the backside of the cutter. The neutral angle would be perpendicular or 90° to the cutting angle and a negative angle would be a angle that leans towards the cutting edge.
It is a little difficult to describe. I hope this helps.
Ray
Best way to hard tool a hole... carbide drill and constant compressed air blowing those hard chips out and cooling the hardened tool steel. Drill at a fairly fast rpm, depending on drill diameter, and peck... cut and get out, cut and get out, all while using your air hose or even a spray mist with the coolant shut off so its just blowing cool air. Carbide needs some rpm, especially smaller drill bits. You can use a good American made 10% cobalt bit if interupted cuts are involved, bc interupted cuts will destroy carbide. But you can't run the cobalt as fast as carbide. Flood cobalt bits with coolant.
I'd say 800 rpm for a 1/4" carbide bit, 300 rpm for a good American made 10% cobalt 1/4" bit.
Might want to ride your quill lock just a little when breaking thru so you dont knock the corners off your bits.
That’s a good explanation. Thank you for sharing.
Most cobalt drills at 5%. I haven’t heard of a 10% one. Do you know the manufacturers name?
There are many types of cobalt drill bits, but the most common are M42 cobalt drill bits (composed of 8% cobalt) and M35 cobalt drill bits (5% cobalt)
@@shopandmath You are so welcome and I hope you have good results.
I've been retired for about 5 years so I cant recall the brands that make hss-cobalt 10% but I know they were American made. You got my curiosty up so I've kind of been looking around on the web with no luck, only 8% like you said. I will check my tooling later on to see if I have anything that will jog my memory. The 8% should work too with a little slower rpm and flood coolant. I could always tell a big difference between American hss-cobalt and imported, in all grades.
I see MoMax makes a 10% but all I've found there are square bits, drill blanks, and part-off blades. Maybe try TRW Putnam or Cleveland Greenfield?
When I use a masonry bit and sharpen it
I also do the leading edge that is the top part, as Those bits are never accurate in my estimation, and they never give me a true clean cut.
I sharpen them as I sharpen a standard HSS bit.
That is a very good suggestion. Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
I've done the same thing. You need to lower the speed.
Thank you for your comment and thank you for taking the time to comment
If you look through the comment section, you’d be surprised how many people say that you can’t do this or that this doesn’t work
0:52 Stellite is not basically high speed steel. It doesn't even have iron/steel in it. Its tungsten carbide "glued" in a matrix with cobalt.
You are correct.
I am guilty of dumbing down my comparison
I was just trying to convey a comparison of metal that people would be able to understand
Thank you for taking the time to watch the video and comment. It is much appreciated.
Ray
I think a bearing right above the part would reduce the run out of the drill bit and possibly reduce carbide breakage.
you are most likely correct
The reason for me doing this is the type of videos that I shoot are one and done style
ideally, I would’ve he treated my own piece of material brought it to the hardness tester, but I’ve had people tell me that I swapped the material out which obviously isn’t true but still it kind of puts the I’m being scammed in the air so I decided to choose something which everyone can identify with and see. I understand that that’s hard because it’s an endmill
Thank you for contributing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
hardened^
I use cheap diamond disks on a Dremel. Can cut all kinds of hardened steel with cheap masonry bits.
A couple people have commented about the diamond discs for the Dremel. Honestly, I never even thought about that. I am going to have to give it a try. Thank you for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
@@shopandmath I use magnifying goggles to get a really close look. I either lock the drill or the dremel in a vice for more control and the diamond will shape the carbide very quickly. It is a good idea to clear any steel and brazing with a normal cutoff disk first because the diamond will not cut it well.
That is really good to know. This was an awesome video.
Thank you, Michael for the next comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
What material is the diamond dressing stone?
It’s aluminum oxide with a weak bond
I always save broken carbide stubs sharpen them like a flat screwdriver adding the relief like a regular drill but much flatter 150 deg and run relatively slow never over 800
thank you for sharing
And thank you for commenting, and taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
The little things we save that most people would consider scrap can be quite valuable, especially if you resourceful
Some useful video ideas are how to dial in a micrometer or how to grind drills
I graduated the course and struggled with these 2 topics. Great video tho!!!
I have videos on both of those topics.
In the how to read a micrometer, it shows taking a micrometre apart and what you have to do to adjust it to dial it in or reset
The drill making video is older one of the first videos that I created.
Good hearing from you Sawaab
Have you seen the new campus?
Do you have any indication of what type carbide is used for the bits?
sorry, I don’t know what type of carbide or grade of carbide is in these drillbits
I was just trying to demonstrate how for very little cost at home and you can drill through very hard steel.
I would’ve brought the Anmol up to the hardness tester to find out the exact hardness one. Unfortunately, we just moved it and it’s still in lockdown mode or transportation mode.
I pick those Drill bits up from the restore, which is the cheapest place. I could find they only cost me a dollar each no tax Canadian.
If you watch the shop tour video you will see that I have access to millions of dollars worth of equipment and an excellent environment to machine almost anything
my friends keep telling me that I need to make videos that the average person with the most basic tools can still drill out a broken tap or Harden Bolt at home. Sorry I couldn’t answer your question.
Ray
cobalt drills do go thru hardened steel... chinesium steel that is.
Cobalt is a little bit better than straight high speed steel but carbide is vastly superior
In this video, I also didn’t adjust the speed the feed or use coolant and oil. I was trying to do an example of not doing this in a machine shop, but doing it in your garage at home.
@@shopandmath drill press is machine shop. Nobody has a drill press, and you cant use carbide bits unless you have a drill press.
It wasn't 3$ . You need drill , stand , vise , electricity , shop ...
No oil?
Wouldn't a cutting fluid be in order ?
You are correct I should’ve used some cutting oil
Thank you. As a woodworker I am not up on all of the ins and outs of steel. Clear and simple explanation of why and how to do this. Much appreciated.
Thank you Steve for your nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Eso amazing video thanks
Thank you it is nice to get a positive comment
Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Ray
It seems one reason the bits were breaking was you were using a drill press. If it were solid mounted in a Bridgeport, or similar machine, I think you could have got away with one bit. Your masonry bit is also fairly long, letting it wander. It's an interesting concept, in the case I ever have to drill something super hard. Wasn't that a HSS end mill that you were trying to drill? how would you drill a similar 7/8ths/1" (whatever diameter it is) pure carbide end mill??
You might have had a Hastloy insert which is still harder than HSS. Stellite (I worked at a Union Carbide plant in 1966) where stellite was manufactured. It was only a few points below most tungsten carbide. It was hard. I don't remember the exact chemistry but it had cobalt, chromium, and ???? It was not machinable, so it had to be cast and them finished by diamond grinding. We made many turbine blades for jets using Hastaloy which would maintain strength and stability in a red heat. We made thousands of valve seats for Caterpillar by casting rings then grinding to final shape.
What about a diamond coated drill bit?
It depends
They generally only do diamond coating real diamond coating on carbide. The diamond coating is a throwback from about 15 years ago. It’s a technology that they used on the space shuttle to deflect heat.
On high-speed, steel or cobalt it wouldn’t do anything
Think of coatings Like a chocolate covered cake those small Vashon cakes or Joe Louis the coating on the outside is hard very hard and the material behind. It is soft like a cake.
The backing material must be very hard and tough to hold onto the coding on the outside to prevent it from flaking and cracking off
I’m hoping that I explain this well articulated enough that you can understand what I’m trying to get at
Ray
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,keep it technical................................the bit is not a guy,,,,,,or a gal.............................
3 in one oil works great in s shop, and will preserve your tools against heat damage. Heat is especially a factor with brazed tool bits. Putting a nice sharp edge on any drill bit is easy if you have a diamond flat sharpener, in the same idea as a 3 by 8 inch stone.
if you don’t have a diamond wheel, some people have been commenting about using a small diamond wheel on a Dremel now I personally have never thought of that, and I will be incorporating that in on one of my next videos just to see how it turns out
Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
@@shopandmathWhy didn't you use cutting oil or any kind of lube when you drilled that hole??
That and slow speed, you probably would have completed the hole with the first drill bit.
I'm curious about the runout in the diamond grinding wheel on startup. Seems to present itself again during the dressing operation and also in the 8x footage you see it a bit as the drills is sharpened.
It’s a visual illusion.
It has to do with the bit rate of the video so when it speeds up and slows down it looks like it’s a wobbling
Thank you for this , i have always heard of this on knife making forums but never seen it put to practice
I was hoping to learn something...but I'm convinced you don't really know what you're doing. You should watch a video on drilling hardened steel before you try and give advice.
Why did you decide to use dry drilling? Wouldn't flood-cooling have helped avoid the breakages?
Coolant or oil would have been preferred
I was doing it on a drill press and didn’t want to make a mess
My parameters for this video
Number one
accessibility for everybody with limited tools (someone with a drill press, or hand drill and a grinder could make these drillbits for around $10)
Second
Pick material that everybody understood was extremely hard. Unfortunately, our hardness tester was in shipping mode from the move still
And I could not tell you the exact hardness of the material.
So I picked something that is easily recognized by everyone and they understand that it’s extremely hard.
Third
Demonstrate an easy and basic set up
I currently have three videos, including this one on drilling harden material.
Do you have any ideas for my next video?
Thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated.
Ray
Diamond wheel turning enormously too fast! Otherwise a great video. Thank you sir!
Hmm going faster, with cutting fluid and light pressure?
I use a diamond hand file I purchased from Amazon to hand sharpen the masonry bits to drill holes in hardened steel. Also use a guide to keep the bit centered when starting the hole as a prick punch obviously doesn’t do its job.
I never thought of using a file.
Thank you for sharing. Much appreciated.
Ray
HSS Centre drills and spotting drills are also useless.
I have had good results using the diamond file on a Leatherman to touch up the edges on carbide tips - I've carried one on my belt for 35 years. If you need to reshape the carbide, the diamond grinding wheel wins.
@@russelldold4827 learn something new today I didn’t know that the Leatherman came with a diamond file. I will have to see if mine has one
Thank you for sharing
Ray
Hey this video is cool. Would you have any tips or ideas on best ways to drill out or remove. A broken piece of Easy out bolt extractor tool if possible Thanks 🙏
I would use the same technique that I used in one of my previous videos on how to remove remove a tap by using a guide plate
th-cam.com/video/rSShHH2Us5Q/w-d-xo.htmlsi=l5ookITZoDb7UuJn
Best of luck let me know how it goes
Ray
Very impressive: all for the cost of a few masonry drill bits! I am going to try to re-grind the masonry drill bits using the small diamond discs used in Dremel type tools as I already have them and only need to drill 4mm holes in hardened steel. Many thanks.