Improve your 3D prints:
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มี.ค. 2018
- Tweet your bad prints at me using #3DSenpai!
💝 Live tips/donations here! toms3d.org/live-tips
Product links are affiliate links - I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you)
🎥 All my video gear toms3d.org/my-gear
I use Epidemic Sound, sign up for a 30-day free trial here share.epidemicsound.com/MadeWi...
🎧 Check out the Meltzone Podcast (with CNC Kitchen)! / @themeltzone
👐 Enjoying the videos? Support my work on Patreon! / toms3dp - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![500 บาท สุ่มกินสตรีทฟู้ดริมทะเล หาดจอมเทียนพัทยา 8K [HDR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aZLagyZyQE4/mqdefault.jpg)
July 2019, more than a year after this live, and you are the one that helped me with a lot of issues on my printer.
Big thanks from Brazil!!
Keep up the great work
Thank you for doing these interactive sessions. It really helps to see someone with a lot of experience looking at issues and identifying what the causes are.
Thank you Tom, I really found this troubleshooting session a big help with the printing issues I had encountered. The best hour spent this evening as I happy print my way into 2021!
Wishing you and everyone a very Happy New Year and successful 2021.
There was a ton of useful info in this vod, it really helped me understand what to look for to make sure my printer and slicer are set up correctly. Thanks.
i couldnt find the problem with mine at all until 10 minutes in, was just learning issues with other peoples prints and bam you said my exact one. Thanks
Tnx Tom! Your comment about slowing prints down was the final piece in getting prints going again after some upgrades!
Hello Thomas
It was a very good teaching and instructive, to make 3D printing better.
More of that kind of videos please :)
This is such a helpful idea! Thank you for doing this!
I haven't been able to catch one of these live yet, but a lot of useful info here. I'm new to 3D printing, so these are gold!
I print the cube just to make quick comparisons when testing slicer or printer changes. I find it's useful for that, and saves time over a benchy.
GReat video. I was having trouble with skipping and now I will try some of the tips.
I'm surprised Tom hasn't noticed that the same spot on the Benchies keeps coming up - it corresponds exactly with the nameplate on the back of the Benchy.
This solved an issue I've been having since I started printing. Thanks a bunch! This video is still useful!
Thanks for this - helped me diagnose my very first prints I just made today. :-)
Thank you so much for this video! you are the reason why i purchased a 3D printer :)
no is not
Hallo Thomas, Super Tipp beim First layer mit den 50 micron. Hatte genau das Problem und jetzt PERFEKT !! Danke
This is what i call a usefull broadcast! Great!!
Once a month would be good. Thank You learned a lot.
The image with the A8 where the first layer wasn't sticking very well. You can also try upping the first layer extrusion multiplier, go from %100 to %105. You can also increase the first layer height to 0.3 because a thicker first layer might be easier than re-calibrating the Z height; especially if it's only off by a tiny bit.
Great information, would love to see this a regular monthly feature
aesthetically speaking, the red & blue boxes @28:38 actually look really pleasing :)
Hey, thanks for the help will look in to it (Y)
My Benchy got really noticeable zits on the surface. Not sure what to tune in this case (the video suggests some "slicer tweaking"). Everything else was pretty much spot on. I appreciate the help!
wonder If you could share/VLOG your thoughts on how to improve the finish of print surfaces over supported areas while printing with the most common filaments? Patterns, distances, temperature and so on.
You are a smart person
Hi Tom, I recently ordered some filament that is more expensive then i have paid for in the past, I was hoping you could give some advice on the process of tuning, Thanks.
I haven't watched the whole video yet so if you covered this, I'm sorry. I switched to Craftware's slicer after using Slic3r for custom supports. However, I printed something with a spire, similiar to a Benchy's chimney and it has a ton of filament sticking out instead of being smooth. While printing, I saw that the print head will stop, get to temp, and resume after every layer. Is there any way to disable this in Craftware or fix the retraction? I'm not close to the print and I haven't taken a picture yet.
Re the alcohol & water mix for cleaning the bed, what ratio would you use? (How much alcohol vs how much water)
I have good luck with windex on my glass bed and it cleans off the glue stick real good and cleans the bed back to the original surface condition between prints.
That unexplainable Z axis effect (regular extrusion width variability over several layers) may be due to heater block hysteresis.
Thanks for sharing :-)
37:35 Tree rinning lately has been described as salmon skin i think lately?
They are selling TL-Smoother boards using diodes to reduce the effect and say its also caused by the motors moving by the momentum causing a electric current generated that adds this artifact into the print.
You were wrong about the cubic infill on that benchy, it is how regular rectilinear looks like on the side of a benchy , if you look from the bottom it looks like rectilinear. I have a benchy printed with rectilinear infill from transparent filament and it looks just like that blue one.
36:00 He said "if stuff is leaking out of the top of your heater block, that's a very serious issue." I'm not sure if heater block is another name for the heat break, but I had filament oozing out of the top of my heat break because I had the wrong type of nozzle and improperly installed Capricorn tube. Left a gap in the throat for the filament to ooze out of the top. So I redid the tubing and put the right type of nozzle on and have had no more oozing. Getting really nice quality prints now for the most part. So I'm not sure if I'm talking about the same thing, but leaking might not always be a serious issue.
In need of some advice. My MK3S prints a line on my benchy that is right at the place where the deck of the benchy begins and runs straight along the side of the boat and tapers off towards the front. I've had it do this one one other real print that had almost the same situation. Used stock slic3r settings for generic pla at .2. No one on the Prusa facebook page knows what to do. The prints and the benchy look absolutely pristine otherwise. What can be done, if anything?
What print speed is everyone printing the benchy for best results?
NOOOO missed another live stream :( damn my bad sleeping habits at the moment.
How do you know when he is going to live stream? I never have any idea when they are. Please Help.
El_burrito´s print looks like bad calibration on bed PID´s. making the bed flex up and down everytime the heat turns on and off.. worth a try.
The leaking round the top of the heatblock is often caused by the low viscosity of PLA when heated. You can use some Plumbers Tape (PTFE tape) on the threads of the throat & nozzle to solve problem. Sorry, forgot to say in live chat.
Love the new opening music BTW.
thanks
David115599 No worries, was an issue with my printer when I first got it. Remember to swap out the heatblock, nozzle & throat for an alll metal if you're printing over about 250C as apparently PTFE gives over nasty things. But nothing else seems to have quite the same low viscosity issues.
Sorry to have missed this today, always late to the party, hope there's another #3DSenpai stream soon. I am getting under-extrusion at the start of some inner perimeters, resulting in gaps between outer perimeter(s) and infill. First I thought it was only after retraction because most of the line starts look great, even a little over on the slower ones, but fine positive feature test models look great, seem to have it pinned down to only when switching from a slower print speed, like a small outer perimeter on the inside of a small hole, to a faster speed like the inner perimeter of the outer wall of the part (Slic3r does this, with it's super-slow default "small perimeter" speed, Cura does not seem to have the same issue). I was having the opposite issue before where it was over-extruding at the start of the outer perimeter, i now think it was also because it was switching from a faster to slower print speed, and the pressure at the nozzle takes time to change. No skipping on the extruder, but it's like it does not accelerate the filament fast enough. Maybe play with the extruder acceleration settings? Using a v6 clone with polished heat-break on a pretty tight bowden setup with a simple extruder and brass mk8 hobb.
The Z banding... My first homemade 3D printer (special thanks to you Tom for the help), has horrible z banding all the way up every print. Im using a bowden fed 1.75mm V6. I have tried cleaaing and or replacing every major component and nothing is helping. I have cycled through 4 heat breaks and 8 (off brand) nozzles. Next is a new authentic e3d nozzle but I don't have much hope. After that I suppose I try direct drive extrusion. I cannot figure it out. This also happens to be my first bowden machine Ive owned. I didn't think there would be issues because the ultimaker machines print so well, and I have fixed or calibrated every one of this machines issues except this damn z banding. Is 1.75mm bowden extrusion no good? I just do not get it.
Keep in mind I am using lead screws not threaded rods, and the z banding doesn't seem to follow any sort of pattern. It looks like bad extrusion, but when feeding filament via jog controls I get all signs of perfect extrusion. My only other thought is maybe one of my lead screws is bent but I really have no idea. My prints looks about at bad as you'd expect off a flemsy i3 knock off, so my first notion was poor frame design but Ive gone to lengths to make sure my frame is ROCK SOLID. It didn't help.
I have a Creality cr-10s. My Benchy prints are coming out so terrible.
I will see you at #MRRF!
crap i missed it... i actually need some help with my printrbot
can you put a glassbed in a dishwasher????
Thomas, the guy with the leaky heater block probably needs to tighten up the heat break/sink. It's leaking there and getting on the block right? :{J
I'm shure your drowned in comments. And im late but I'm having trouble with nylon. Prints start good but after a while the filament gets warmer and gets very soft. Also I've tryied Manny different temp settings and I can't stop nylon from warping. I am printing in a enclosure
Tom: Great video. At the risk of invoking the Language Nazis, I'll say that the forward part of a boat is pronounced to sound like the bow someone does at the end of a formal performance. It rhymes with "how". English is a maddening language because of all the variations and inconsistencies even for native speakers. For those who consider English a second or third language, it must be a nightmare on occasion. Proper pronunciation is definitely not easy, but since you are obviously a person who strives to master just about everything I thought you would like to know. In addition, the names of the parts of a boat is filled with pitfalls of their own.
The part about using the correct terminology is like GIGO(garbage in garbage out).
Faulty input gives faulty output. :{
I'm late to the party but well...
52:00 can this occur due to a abrased nozzle?
70% alcohol works great for cleaning the bed and 1 dollar at dollar tree.
Can I send my benchy in?
Tom, a small white board to diagram things on the fly would be very useful. Don't try drawing on the fly with the mouse, use a pen. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Good idea! I've actually got a spare one that I just need to fix up.
Did this dude replace his belts rubber bands
Crank up your fan and get it rock hard... and they call ME Dirty Thing.
Stream start: 1:40
This stream looks much noisier and lower in bitrate than previous ones.
I don't think saying Good stab at it will demonitize you. It's not all about the words, but the context as well.
any of these happening anymore?
Looks and sounds like mayhem, trying to do this on chat and you don't have the proper time and information to be able to think through whether a problem is hardware or software (print settings). I would suggest something more organized, such as a monthly show based on submissions, that way if 50% of the people are asking about something you know is related to backlash, you could help 50% of the people with one example. If 1% of the people are having retraction problems, maybe that's not something to address for that month. And so on.
FYI, skip his constant repeating himself and skip to 2:00