I did engine radiator replacement yesterday. I was able to do it without disconnecting any hoses or lines from other radiators. The trick is to raise the front of the vehicle, remove both lower radiator support brackets and upper ones, screws that hold radiators and fan assemblies together, temp sensor wires etc and then slowly, progressively move engine radiator down while keeping the rest of components up. It does not simply drop because of interference with other components. It still takes time but then there is no need to mess with other cooling systems.
BLUF: REMOVE LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKETS! Thanks for the advice! I replaced my main radiator two weeks ago, was leaking like a sieve, overheat CEL, etc. I followed your lead pretty well until trying to actually remove the radiator. As you demonstrated, the catches make it nearly impossible without uncharging the AC, draining the transmission even after cutting off a few of the support catches with an oscillating tool. Frustrated, I read the comments more closely about the removing two lower support brackets. They stick out like horns from the frame underneath the radiator sandwich holding up the fan and all the radiators with 3 bolts on either side. That's the move and the main radiator wiggled right out with some encouragement (bending/stretching). I built a little support jig out of 2x to support the AC/transmission/Battery radiator which seemed to mostly keep everything in place. Still lots of negotiating to get it out and more negotiating to get the new one in. I removed the battery radiator after all - helps to have the room. Reassembly was way easier. I simply filled, very slowly the three reservoirs, loosened the top radiator hoses to let some air out as I filled. Then ran the car and topped off a small amount. I had a P00B7 code that wouldn't clear with my OBD scan s/w, but cleared on it's own after about two days of driving. Also, changed oil. It was a not fun nine hour job, but better than redistributing my wealth to the stealership north of $1800 for a $130 part.
I've done this repair. I did not need to remove the driver side headlight, the passenger wheel well cover, or the black metal bracket connected to the cross beam. I did not disconnect anything from the fan shroud. I had the ac discharged and disconnected the lines to the condenser. I drained the transmission fluid and disconnected the lines to the cooler bypass valve (silver box) left it bolted to the assembly. I unbolted the shroud and the front radiator. Removed the front radiator, unhooked the shroud from the rest of the assembly and lifted the assembly out raising the drivers side first. I left the shroud where it was.
This video and the water pump were life savers. I dont know how anyone is a car mechanic these days. What a nightmare of a job this was. Ive done at least 6 other vehicle radiators and none come remotely close to this difficult.
Thanks! No kidding! I'm doing car repairs part time right now and sometimes I wonder what I'm thinking?! However, I don't take on these difficult jobs when it comes to customer's cars. Just not worth the frustration and hassle.
@@mjspiess so I sealed up my leak and tried to put it back in, and made another hole in a separate tube. Did you remove the ac condenser or tranny cooler for the reinstallation?
@@bb8384 Bummer! No, I did not remove the AC condenser or transmission cooler for the reinstallation. Apparently, if you remove the 2 lower radiator mounts, it creates a lot more room for the radiator replacement procedure. I haven't tried it myself, but read that was a major factor in making the process "easier".
it helps to have a 4 post car lift from ADVANTAGE LIFTS. I once replaced the oil pan in that Volt. Lifting the car took two hours doing it one wheel at a time. And then, it took another two hours to lower the car after the work was done. That was a pain in the ass to do. After doing that, I purchased the 4 post car lift and became a happy DIYer.
I agree. It can be really annoying. I purchased a Quick Jack for my mobile mechanic service and can now get a car lifted 2 feet in about 10 minutes. MUCH easier and faster than lifting one corner at a time.
Thanks for a really helpful video! but I have a problem and need help! I was able to get the radiator out after painful frustration. I need help, tho I can't get it to go back in and am having tons of problems rememberig how they all hook into place in the shroud. Is there any chance you have pictures of how the transmission radiator and engine radiator snap into place? I would pay for any pics you can send , I have worked on my own cars since the 60's nad this was the worst repair I can recall. Even the pics you referred to about dropping the bracket but esp. pics from your reassembly would really help. Thanks!!
You're welcome! I'm not sure if you watched my entire video, but at 23:20, I talk specifically about the tabs/slots on the radiator. I don't have any pictures of my reassembly, but I have pictures and instructions from the service manual I could send you. It shows how they are oriented. Let me know an email I can send a .PDF to. Thanks!
@@BillDeanstlrealestate Hey, not sure what the issue is, but I got your message and sent you an email with the .PDF. Hopefully it helps you get it put back together. Good luck!
Thanks. This motivates me to trade in my '13 Volt for a Tesla. I replaced the CHCM and put in Leak Stop for the rad leak. The complexity is the Achilles heel. Those radiators are so closely sandwiched it would be be difficult to apply epoxy sealant on the outside as another fix.
You're welcome. Teslas are remarkable, but I can't justify the cost, but I agree, these Volts are incredibly complex. Bolts are so cheap now, I think one will likely be in my future sooner or later.
I’m in the exact same place and making the same car replacement! I love this Volt but since they don’t make them anymore, looks like I’m going to a Tesla now. I just need to get this bum radiator fixed and the check engine light to stay off! After receiving a $1700 estimate from the shop I figured I’d swap it out myself since I found a radiator for $90. But holy crap this video has me thinking twice now. I really want to just JB Weld or epoxy the leak for now so I can smog and get rid of it!
@@garrett7730 With my 2013, I was able to turn off the check engine light with my UltraGauge scan tool, but with this 2012 in the video, I had to take it into the dealership to get it to stay off, but like I said in my other reply, if your front radiator is leaking, I'd just replace it as it's waaay easier than the main engine radiator.
Great video! How many miles did you have before you had the engine leak? Were you getting P00B7 error code and did the engine overheat warning come on? I have a 2012 Volt with 75K miles that has been maintained well and am surprised the dealer just told me it will be $2K to do the job you did in your video. Is it unusual for a radiator to develop a serious leak in only 75K miles? Is there an additive to stop radiator leaks I should try before shelling out $2K? I live in cold and hot temps in the mountains, so I need it to be reliable.
Thank you! I think it had around 140k miles. I only paid $2,900 for it knowing it had a leak and planned to flip it. I don't recall what code/s it threw, but the guy I bought it from told me the engine overheat warning did come on, he pulled it over and had it towed. Added coolant and then noticed it leaking and listed it for sale once he got the $2k quote to replace the radiator. This particular Volt only leaked if the engine was used and the radiator got pressurized, otherwise it ran on the HV battery flawlessly. There are additives to stop radiator leaks, but it's not recommended because it can cause the heater core to clog and gum up smaller coolant passages. It is a very difficult repair, so at a dealership this is going to cost a lot in labor.
How in the world did you managed to get the engine coolant radiator back in? My daughter's Volt has a hole in the radiator, so I ordered a new one and began taking out the old one. Geez, what a nightmare! I finally got it out and am trying to put in the new one without destroying the car! Did you jack the car way up and get the new one in from the bottom, because that is the only way I have not tried. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! This is one of the first times that I wish I would have just taken it to a mechanic and paid to have it done, but to late now.
Yeah... It's a nightmare! Yes, the front of the car needs to be as high as you can get it and the radiator comes in from the bottom. It's easier if you remove the 2 lower radiator mounting brackets. It's extra work, but provides a lot more room. It's a crazy, stupid, hard engineering mess. Good luck!
@@mjspiess I finally got a chance to work on reassembling the cooling system over the holidays and got it done. I still have to put on some of the trim, but basically done. Thanks for the video, it was a life saver.
Just bought a parts volt car that needs the front end reassembled from the motor forward. Aside from a brand new radiator and condenser, I'm having to source all the parts----which my time really won't allow. Thought I had a perfectly matched front bumper assembly, but evidently there's a difference between the gray silver and the greenish silver, which the car is. I may scuttle this project because I'm seeing that I don't have the time.
Bummer! I know what you mean though. It took me about 8 months to fully piece together my first Volt. It could have been faster, but I was really trying to keep the price down. My second Volt didn't need much body work at all, so I had that pieced together in a month. I've kinda decided moving forward I will likely stay away from crashed Volts.
@@mjspiess I would sell it back to the guy I purchased it from because he gave me a staggeringly great deal. However, I already bought a $600 bumper so he may not want to pay that, as he is a body guy. We'll see... I may keep it and just slow roll it as you did...
You’re saying it was super difficult but it doesn’t look too crazy lol. I think I’m gonna go for it. Chevy wants 2300 and they’re telling me it needs both.
You'll see... 😆 Since this video was released, another person told me if you remove the 2 lower radiator support brackets, the job is much easier. At around the 16 minute mark, you'll see these brackets. It's extra steps, but provides the extra room you need to remove the radiator and not fight with the AC condenser and transmission cooler as much. Good luck!
Yeah I just got a $2k quote too, told them to just give me the car back. It's at 150k miles, paid off, and my secondary car so I got all the time in the world to play with it
@@mjspiess thank you for replying. I'm delaying my radiator replacement as the dealer charges a leg for a new one. I'll order a new radiator and change it myself, following your advice and reserving plents of time for the job. Thank you again from Portugal 🙂
@@mjspiess Allright. So yesterday my car finally failed on me! Well.. To be fair, I had at least one year notice between it started leaking a little bit to the point where the coolant would be completely gone after a couple days. So, I've ordered the engine radiator yesterday and went to pick it up today. I had part of the front already disassembled, so I figured It would take me around 4 hours to take the rest apart. It was definitely the most frustrating car I ever worked on, everything is pain to remove.. And then there's the radiator.. Ohhh man! Wasn't for your video showing how to rotate it and remove it sideways, I think I would have gone crazy! Taking that radiator off and putting the new one back in, wow.. I cannot express how frustrating it was. As I said, without this video, I would just assume it was impossible without removing the other radiators and give up, so Thank You once again! It was an 8 hours job for me, but still have another 2 ahead to re-install the headlight, bumper and other minor adjustments.
@@markaition Absolutely the single most frustrating car I have ever worked on too! I love it, but man it could have been much simpler and "mechanic" friendly. Every time I work on it, I have never once said, oh sweet, that was easy lol I'm kinda glad I'm not the only one to feel this way. I found a few pictures on a Facebook group of the radiator turned vertical that clued me in, but to even get it to turn vertical was a challenge! You're welcome for the video and I'm glad it was helpful for you. I hope to never have to do another one ever again!
Probably $1500+ at dealership? My battery/electronics radiator and the AC condensor (the next one inward) is bent in from road debri but just the battery loop is leaking. Been filling it with filtered water luckily I don't live where it really gets below freezing for much time. I just keep topping it off.
Yeah, at 1:15 I talk about it and show you how to do it. It's from emptying the coolant that matters though. The air bag sensors won't care if the batteries are disconnected.
I think I have the exact same leak. How did you know it was only the engine cooling radiator and not the front most battery cooling radiator? Would you recommend just replacing both if you're going to all the trouble? Did you replace any hoses while you were in there?
Hi Bret... I am not certain, but I believe the front two reservoir tanks are for the HV Charging and Battery Cooling loops and the Passenger-side tank is for the ICE gas motor Cooling loop. In my Volt, the front coolant tanks remained full and the system never got overheated in Electric mode, but did so in Extended Range Gas Mode.
I’ve got the same problem with my battery cooling radiator…bottom damage from such little clearance I assume. So, do u think there are any temporary patch options you could have done instead of replacing the whole radiator? I just need mine fixed long enough to get my check engine light to stay off so I can get thru smog check. It’s my commute to work car and I just need this thing to get me to and from work until I can get my new car bought. I was thinking of using some JB Weld or something to patch whatever my leak is so figured I’d ask somebody who had some experience with these radiators up close. Oh, also, what radiator is the battery cooling radiator? I can tell which of the 3 do what. Thanks for any info you guys can give!
The coolant system pressurizes as it heats up, so there's not much of a good temporary patch option as things expand a bit. The hardest part is things typically need to be dry to apply anything external. I know JB weld has been used with decent success by others. The battery cooling radiator is the front one though and waaay easier to replace than the engine radiator in this video. If it's leaking from the front radiator, I would just replace it.
Chevy dealer quoted over $800 in labor to change the front radiator, so I'm tempted to do it myself. The passenger side of the front tank is the one that I have to keep topping up, which is the battery if the diagram om the Volt forum is correct. Any risk of damage by letting itself purge the air out, or is the pump powerful enough to push any air clear?
The front radiator is quite simple and pretty much a standard replacement procedure, but does take about a week to bleed air out of the system unless you have the tool. I've done it on 2 Volts this way and didn't have any issues.
Awesome! Thanks for the reply! 3rd party shops were quoting me 7.8 hours of labor too (about $1k) but I think they don't understand the 3 radiator system and were just quoting numbers from a full or engine radiator replacement. Chevy seems to like making things difficult, even the 12v battery in my '97 Monte Carlo was a pain to change.
@@erPiccoloTotti You're welcome! Yeah, sounds like you got a quote for the main engine radiator which is a completely different beast... That took me around 8 hours to replace. It was ridiculously hard! The front radiator is pretty easy and there are a few video tutorials on TH-cam.
Thanks again for the comments. I finally worked up the nerve to swap the front radiator myself. About 2 hours to get everything apart and the new radiator installed by myself, then a friend came over and it took about an hour to put everything back together. The only issue I have now is trying to clear the P1E00 engine code. The P1FFF code for the coolant doesn't pop up. I guess I'll have to find someone to reset the computer? There is a 3rd party shop here that did that when I swapped the battery, so hopefully can avoid the dealer again. Thanks again!
@@erPiccoloTotti Nice! Good work! Yeah, it may need a reprogram to get rid of that code. Some can be reset with a general scanner, but others need to be reprogrammed.
I just added coolant to the tanks every day for about a week. The system will naturally bleed out the air bubbles, but it just takes longer if you don't use the proper tool.
Im working on a 12 volt, I replaced the main radiator and the secondary radiator and ac condenser, all new, now the engine doesn’t run. Any ideas why that would be? All temp sensors are plugged in and good
@@mjspiess update, motor runs but white smoke out tail pipe. My assumption is the customer let it over heat , which caused damage to head gasket and now coolant in cylinder
@@baconintheoven4717 Yikes! That's a good guess with the work you just did. I've not done a head gasket on one of these. I know you can get whole engines pretty cheap on www.car-part.com.
Hey, I have a question about the Chevy Volt coolant leak issue. My volt is leaking coolant almost like a super soaker when the radiator fans start running. I've changed my water pump, thermostat n sensor, and even replaced the valve cover gasket. It almost immediately runs hot STILL and I haven't had proper heat or air at the start of these issues. Could this be like an easy fix, ie: a coolant tank replacement? I noticed the little latch on the plastic tank that stops the cap is worn completely off. And I had to replace my last tank cap because it pretty much exploded and got stuck in the tank. Also is there an easy way to flush clogs from the engine coolant line? Please and Thanks
Are you able to locate the leak? Is it squirting and then the air from the fans blow it everywhere? Running hot almost immediately leads me to believe you may have a blown head gasket. If you don't have a compression tester, some other things you can inspect is white smoke from the tailpipe, air bubbles in the coolant tank and milky residue under the oil fill cap and/or on the dipstick. However, air in the coolant system will make it seem like it's running hot too and also not allow proper heat and the car probably won't allow you to run A/C if it thinks it's overheating. Without the proper vacuum fill procedure, it can take days or even weeks to fully burp the system, but with a leak, you'll likely never get it properly burped. It sounds like you're getting excessive pressure in your coolant system to make your coolant cap explode?! You'd have to use a garden hose to try to flush a clog from the engine coolant line, but these Volts are pretty sensitive to the coolant used, so you'd want to flush just the engine side in this fashion. I would start with a compression test though, check each cylinder and see if you have a head gasket leak and go from there.
@@mjspiess I did have white smoke and I had a confirmed valve gasket cover leak. After swapping it out and changing the oil, I no longer have white smoke. I can't see the leak, but it is as you say, squirting and then the fans spray it all over. I feel like there is definitely air in the line. There's a whistling sound from the top coolant tank if I tighten the cap too much when the engine heats up, and upon cool down, the "area" behind the fans makes a squeal like air being let out of a balloon. Also, if it's worth mentioning, when changing the thermostat, I noticed a glittery, almost clay-like substance that looks alot like some kind of "quick seal". That's why I was asking about the flushing something out of the radiator. The car only starts overheating when the engine activates, so that's the line I'm worried about now. Should I just pay the dealer to flush the system? Would this also include them taking over the process of burping the system?
@@BaamBankstonTV Hmmm...seems like you kinda have a mess on your hands lol It does sound you still have air in the system based on the whistling and squealing noises heard. Maybe the previous owner put some quick seal in it due to the leaking radiator, but knew it would only leak in engine mode. Do you know the history on this Volt? The engine side is no where near as sensitive to burping as the electrical side, so you could burp the engine side like any other car. Drive it on ramps, jack up the front end or simply park it on a decline at the end of your driveway or something similar and let it run while adding coolant, but I don't think you'll get anywhere while the engine radiator is still leaking. I think I would still run a compression test to make sure you don't have a head gasket leak too. The coolant tank cap should be on as tight as it goes without any issues. I don't think the dealership will want to or maybe refuse to do a coolant flush before the radiator leak is addressed, but if you have a head gasket leak, there's no sense in doing either until the head gasket is addressed. You can get a cheap compression tester kit at Harbor Freight. I'd start there and rule out the worst case scenario first. If the compression is good, then get the radiator replaced.
Would it be easier if you first took out the front radiator first? I need a coolant change anyways but I'm trying to avoid having the refill the ac and trans.
Yes, it would be easier if you first took out the front radiator first. Exactly! I was also trying to avoid refilling the AC & transmission as well. I found one example from a Facebook group where the guy discovered if you remove both lower main radiator support brackets, you are able to remove JUST the main radiator leaving the front radiator, transmission cooler & AC condenser in place. I was surprised, but the pictures didn't lie lol! I'm hopeful I never have to do this repair again, but if I do, I will try that method of removing the two lower radiator support brackets to see if it's that much easier. I think it's 3-5 more bolts on each side, but gives you a LOT more space to drop the radiator.
@@TheYonderGod You're welcome! Good luck! Hopefully you'll report back with a success story and be able to enlighten us on whether or not removing the lower radiator support brackets are a game changer. At around 16:30 of my video you get a clear picture of what the brackets look like and I can imagine if they were not there, the main radiator would pretty much fall straight down.
@@mjspiess Got it done, I pulled it out the bottom and it was still difficult and I damaged the fins on my new rad. It was probably a little bit easier though. The worst part is the area on the bottom right with the trans cooler lines. Maybe a good idea to think about removing the trans cooler and just leave the ac condenser.
@@mjspiess no I got the bumper off. But I took a sawsall to the old radiator to get it out. The new will slide in easy. I thot my caddillac radiator was bad!
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains Lol! Yeah man, this radiator is horrendous. Glad you got it though. I found some guy on a Facebook group that removed the lower radiator support brackets and was able to remove the radiator more easily. I hope I never have to try again, but will remember to try it.
@@mjspiess got the old one out and the new one in.now just got get everything in the right place.i just hope I didn't damage anything in the process. GM loves to cram everything in a tight space. Remember the old caddillac 4.9 transverse with the water pump squeezed in there!
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains Nice work! Yeah, hopefully no leaks, etc. when you get it all reassembled. For sure. The Volt is really tight and hard to work on. Thankfully, I never had the pleasure to work on the old Cadillac!
@Dimetri777 Ugh... I feel you! It is an absolute pain! Apparently you can remove the 2 lower radiator brackets and it gives you a lot more room to get everything together. It's some extra steps, but from what I read, it may be worth it. At the 16 minute mark, you can see one of the lower radiator brackets. With that out of the way, you can work vertically and not at such an angle since those brackets would be out of the way. Good luck!
@Dimetri777 Yep, those are the lower radiator brackets. Oh, I see. Yes, getting it high enough is a challenge as well. At the end of my video, I give some tips on getting it back together. Not sure if you watched until the end, but it might help?
@Dimetri777 Yeah, I think I got it as high as my floor jack allowed. Oh yeah...it's by far the worst job I've ever taken on too. Such a terrible design and unnecessary to have it all slotted/fitted together like that. It's definitely a puzzle. I can remember, but I think I ground off or just broke off some tabs because they weren't necessary to hold everything together and it made it easier to slide into place. It's a mess for sure though! I was so happy to be done with it! I had the service manual, so that helped, but I had no idea how bad it really was going to be. It would definitely be easier removing the AC condenser and transmission cooler radiator, but I didn't want to mess with refilling either. Ugh... Love the car, but terrible design!
@Dimetri777 Totally agree. I've owned a fleet of cars over the years and this Volt is by far the most difficult to work on and it doesn't seem like it needs to be this way lol I still love it though!
Good heavens, no wonder the estimate I got for this job today included $1,100 for labor! Hopefully I'll be whipping out the card to pay for it soon and get my baby back.
@@MostlyHarmless68 Nice! I just took a trip with a friend in his Polaris Slingshot through the Tail of the Dragon in Tennessee. If you haven't been, it's a great experience. 318 curves in 11 miles!
Mine leaked intermittently for months, now it's full on gushing though. Weirdest thing, it would drive fine for weeks, then suddenly dump all it's coolant
I'd have pulled the whole stack together, rather recharge the AC and refill the trans fluid than fight with that crap. Getting the rad back in will be even more of a pita, maybe put some cardboard on both sides and tape it until you have it in place so you don't damage the core wrestling with it.
Good video. It is an ugly job. But I think I did it an easier way. I didn’t remove the headlight or fender well. I started top down and removed the front fascia. I didn’t break into the HV battery cooling system. I removed the AC condenser, and I removed the radiator support brackets, which allowed me to pull the radiator out the bottom. Time between AC radiator coming out, radiator out and back in, and AC condenser back in was less than 30 minutes. That is not how the factory shop manual does it. I didn’t want to break into the HV cooling because I didn’t have the tools to properly refill the system. It needs to be vacuum filled because it’s pump isn’t strong enough to push air bubbles through the battery. If you get air in, and don’t get it out, you risk local overheating of the battery.
Thank you. It is an ugly job. Thanks for the tips. I hope to never have to do it again! Another person told me about removing the lower radiator support brackets and said it was easier that way as well. I've done the HV radiator before and didn't have any issues without the tools to properly refill the system on 2 Volts, but I didn't want to have to refill the AC system or mess with the transmission fluid and cooler.
There isn't one. The service manual says to drain the coolant by removing the coolant temperature sensor on the lower passenger side. At 4:10 I start talking about the procedure.
Well the radiator is gonna be drained cuz its leaking down there as it is. It looks like its coming from the bottom leaking around the plastic piece. Gonna be a fun job!
In hindsight, it definitely would have been easier to at least remove the transmission cooler radiator. It was a terrible job to leave everything in tact. If I had to do it all over again, I would either remove the transmission cooler or grind off a couple of the tabs/slots in the plastic housing that holds them all together.
So from looking at he video, It looks like 3 radiators and a condenser. That all looks like a nightmare. From a scale of 1 to 10, how easy would you say this repair is. I just did a radiator replacement on my TL and it nothing this complicated. Is this even worth getting a volt.
Correct. It was a nightmare lol! Man...it was by far the most difficult radiator replacement I've ever done. Although, I spoke to someone else who recently did this job and he said if you remove the two lower radiator support brackets, you don't have to remove the front radiator or the others in fact and it creates more room to drop it down from below. Regardless, I would say this was an 8 or 9/10 on difficulty. Definitely 10/10 when it comes to a radiator replacement. I wouldn't want to do it again, but now I'm curious to see how much easier it is with the lower brackets removed.
@@mjspiess When replacing the radiator, it helps to replace each water pump. These pumps will leak eventually. But, if you're only fixing the car to flip it, just fuhggettaboutit and sell it. Let the buyer beware.
I have to go to have my engine coolant loop checked after hitting a small animal in the dark and now its leaking. I hope its a simple fix and not this fix. What the hell was GM thinking....an engineering mess but that seemsto be what come like. Wow.. Told my bro I am just going to see what the dealer can do knowing and hearing about this labor mess that it requires.
The Problem is the very poor design..😅 And this is the main radiator who holds all the other radiators. I also Dremeled the tabs and managed to replace it whithout draining the ac and transmission cooler.. P.S. If it was my own car.... I would plasma cut the bumper bar.. and after replacing weld it Together... It's really a Pain to replace It... But The Front one is very Easy to remove.. And very important Use the right coolant If you don't You've Got High voltage messages on your screen.. That's why this one radiator cap is sealed.. Because if you put In The Wrong coolant... You could potentially fry out your high Voltage battery system... So use: De ionized water don't use tap water, because It does conduct electricity...😅
Your experience and tips are invaluable, especially for anyone else tackling this job. The design is definitely flawed, particularly with the main radiator holding all the others. It's incredibly annoying and very unnecessary. Your workaround with the Dremel to avoid draining the AC and transmission cooler is quite resourceful and time saver. And I can see why you'd consider plasma cutting the bumper bar for easier access-sometimes, a more drastic approach can save a lot of hassle. If/when I have to do this again, someone else mentioned removing the lower radiator support "horns" and it makes it easier to access the main radiator. Your advice about using the right coolant is crucial. Using deionized water instead of tap water to avoid conductivity issues and potential damage to the high voltage battery system is a great tip. It's clear that the sealed radiator cap is there for a very good reason!
I just got this service done and it was expensive....and now I just found this video as my car overheats again from them now saying the fans don't work and charging literally the same price to do the radiator again....ive own the car for a little over a year. I really liked this car but the design of the radiator system is very off-putting to me.
Yeah, it's an incredibly frustrating job. Geez! Do you have any check engine light codes? Maybe there is another problem? I don't know why they would replace the radiator again if they confirmed the fans weren't working? I've driven my 2013 a little over 21k miles and it's been mostly trouble free. I did had to replace the front radiator which was easy and water pump which wasn't as easy, but I do agree...the radiator systems are pretty frustrating. Good luck on yours. Great cars, but costly when it comes to repairs...
Fetch A Wrench honestly I like the car too but the dealerships here are wonky….I’m not sure what to exactly do but I did sub to your channel as I enjoy the content
@@kumaSOevl Yeah, I've heard some horror stories regarding Volts and dealerships. Unfortunately, it takes some extra competence to work on these Volts and there's usually only one...maybe two techs that are certified in doing so, but even they are sometimes a crap shoot. I'm no tech, but spent a fair amount of time reading and researching various issues the Volt has and have learned a lot. You're kinda in a tough spot. I'd check the fuses to the fans or make sure they are plugged in, but if not, you'd likely get a Check Engine Light. It's kinda odd they'd just fail. Does it only overheat while idling? If it's truly a fan issue, the coolant should cool down while driving as air moves through the radiator.
Fetch A Wrench I’m not sure I drive it straight to the dealer after the light came on. I’ve been driving exclusively on electric this past year. Maybe it’s time to go full EV. Honestly if it’s not a play car I hate pumping gas now lol
That's exactly what killed the 460K mile Volt guy's car (on TH-cam). Check his video out. He said he ran over a Semi Truck tire and destroyed radiators and other components in the undercarriage. Said his car was on its way to 500K trouble free miles and never the same after the insurance company fixed the car
I did engine radiator replacement yesterday. I was able to do it without disconnecting any hoses or lines from other radiators. The trick is to raise the front of the vehicle, remove both lower radiator support brackets and upper ones, screws that hold radiators and fan assemblies together, temp sensor wires etc and then slowly, progressively move engine radiator down while keeping the rest of components up. It does not simply drop because of interference with other components. It still takes time but then there is no need to mess with other cooling systems.
Nice! Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad removing the lower radiator support brackets make the job easier for people moving forward.
BLUF: REMOVE LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKETS! Thanks for the advice! I replaced my main radiator two weeks ago, was leaking like a sieve, overheat CEL, etc. I followed your lead pretty well until trying to actually remove the radiator. As you demonstrated, the catches make it nearly impossible without uncharging the AC, draining the transmission even after cutting off a few of the support catches with an oscillating tool. Frustrated, I read the comments more closely about the removing two lower support brackets. They stick out like horns from the frame underneath the radiator sandwich holding up the fan and all the radiators with 3 bolts on either side. That's the move and the main radiator wiggled right out with some encouragement (bending/stretching). I built a little support jig out of 2x to support the AC/transmission/Battery radiator which seemed to mostly keep everything in place. Still lots of negotiating to get it out and more negotiating to get the new one in. I removed the battery radiator after all - helps to have the room. Reassembly was way easier. I simply filled, very slowly the three reservoirs, loosened the top radiator hoses to let some air out as I filled. Then ran the car and topped off a small amount. I had a P00B7 code that wouldn't clear with my OBD scan s/w, but cleared on it's own after about two days of driving. Also, changed oil. It was a not fun nine hour job, but better than redistributing my wealth to the stealership north of $1800 for a $130 part.
Glad to hear you got it all done. It is for sure one of the worst repairs I've ever done! Sooo frustrating!
Wow
Thank you for your video I just did mine this afternoon, I removed the transmission lines from the cooler and it was easier to take the radiator out.
You're welcome. That's good to know. I probably should have done the same.
I've done this repair. I did not need to remove the driver side headlight, the passenger wheel well cover, or the black metal bracket connected to the cross beam. I did not disconnect anything from the fan shroud. I had the ac discharged and disconnected the lines to the condenser. I drained the transmission fluid and disconnected the lines to the cooler bypass valve (silver box) left it bolted to the assembly. I unbolted the shroud and the front radiator. Removed the front radiator, unhooked the shroud from the rest of the assembly and lifted the assembly out raising the drivers side first. I left the shroud where it was.
This video and the water pump were life savers. I dont know how anyone is a car mechanic these days. What a nightmare of a job this was. Ive done at least 6 other vehicle radiators and none come remotely close to this difficult.
Thanks! No kidding! I'm doing car repairs part time right now and sometimes I wonder what I'm thinking?! However, I don't take on these difficult jobs when it comes to customer's cars. Just not worth the frustration and hassle.
@@mjspiess so I sealed up my leak and tried to put it back in, and made another hole in a separate tube. Did you remove the ac condenser or tranny cooler for the reinstallation?
@@bb8384 Bummer! No, I did not remove the AC condenser or transmission cooler for the reinstallation. Apparently, if you remove the 2 lower radiator mounts, it creates a lot more room for the radiator replacement procedure. I haven't tried it myself, but read that was a major factor in making the process "easier".
@@mjspiess thanks a lot Ill give that a shot. Been a life saver on this. Shops wanted $3,000+ for the radiator and water pump.
@@bb8384 You're welcome! After doing both jobs myself, I can see that estimate. They are unnecessarily and ridiculously hard! Good luck!
it helps to have a 4 post car lift from ADVANTAGE LIFTS. I once replaced the oil pan in that Volt. Lifting the car took two hours doing it one wheel at a time. And then, it took another two hours to lower the car after the work was done. That was a pain in the ass to do. After doing that, I purchased the 4 post car lift and became a happy DIYer.
I agree. It can be really annoying. I purchased a Quick Jack for my mobile mechanic service and can now get a car lifted 2 feet in about 10 minutes. MUCH easier and faster than lifting one corner at a time.
Thanks for a really helpful video! but I have a problem and need help! I was able to get the radiator out after painful frustration. I need help, tho I can't get it to go back in and am having tons of problems rememberig how they all hook into place in the shroud. Is there any chance you have pictures of how the transmission radiator and engine radiator snap into place? I would pay for any pics you can send , I have worked on my own cars since the 60's nad this was the worst repair I can recall. Even the pics you referred to about dropping the bracket but esp. pics from your reassembly would really help. Thanks!!
You're welcome! I'm not sure if you watched my entire video, but at 23:20, I talk specifically about the tabs/slots on the radiator. I don't have any pictures of my reassembly, but I have pictures and instructions from the service manual I could send you. It shows how they are oriented. Let me know an email I can send a .PDF to. Thanks!
@@mjspiess thanks I've tried three times to send you my email address apparently is not allowing them to go through I'll try contacting you
@@BillDeanstlrealestate Hey, not sure what the issue is, but I got your message and sent you an email with the .PDF. Hopefully it helps you get it put back together. Good luck!
Thanks. This motivates me to trade in my '13 Volt for a Tesla. I replaced the CHCM and put in Leak Stop for the rad leak. The complexity is the Achilles heel. Those radiators are so closely sandwiched it would be be difficult to apply epoxy sealant on the outside as another fix.
You're welcome. Teslas are remarkable, but I can't justify the cost, but I agree, these Volts are incredibly complex. Bolts are so cheap now, I think one will likely be in my future sooner or later.
I’m in the exact same place and making the same car replacement! I love this Volt but since they don’t make them anymore, looks like I’m going to a Tesla now. I just need to get this bum radiator fixed and the check engine light to stay off! After receiving a $1700 estimate from the shop I figured I’d swap it out myself since I found a radiator for $90. But holy crap this video has me thinking twice now. I really want to just JB Weld or epoxy the leak for now so I can smog and get rid of it!
@@garrett7730 With my 2013, I was able to turn off the check engine light with my UltraGauge scan tool, but with this 2012 in the video, I had to take it into the dealership to get it to stay off, but like I said in my other reply, if your front radiator is leaking, I'd just replace it as it's waaay easier than the main engine radiator.
@@garrett7730 did you end up JB welding it? My leak seems to be at the bottom seam where the plastic housing and radiator come together.
Unbelievable !..My hat is off to you !
Thank you!
Great video! How many miles did you have before you had the engine leak? Were you getting P00B7 error code and did the engine overheat warning come on? I have a 2012 Volt with 75K miles that has been maintained well and am surprised the dealer just told me it will be $2K to do the job you did in your video. Is it unusual for a radiator to develop a serious leak in only 75K miles? Is there an additive to stop radiator leaks I should try before shelling out $2K? I live in cold and hot temps in the mountains, so I need it to be reliable.
Thank you! I think it had around 140k miles. I only paid $2,900 for it knowing it had a leak and planned to flip it. I don't recall what code/s it threw, but the guy I bought it from told me the engine overheat warning did come on, he pulled it over and had it towed. Added coolant and then noticed it leaking and listed it for sale once he got the $2k quote to replace the radiator. This particular Volt only leaked if the engine was used and the radiator got pressurized, otherwise it ran on the HV battery flawlessly. There are additives to stop radiator leaks, but it's not recommended because it can cause the heater core to clog and gum up smaller coolant passages. It is a very difficult repair, so at a dealership this is going to cost a lot in labor.
@@mjspiess Thank you! I enjoyed your video. Great job on the repair.
@@panepinto1959 You're welcome! Thanks! It was one of the worst repairs I've ever done!
How in the world did you managed to get the engine coolant radiator back in? My daughter's Volt has a hole in the radiator, so I ordered a new one and began taking out the old one. Geez, what a nightmare! I finally got it out and am trying to put in the new one without destroying the car! Did you jack the car way up and get the new one in from the bottom, because that is the only way I have not tried. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! This is one of the first times that I wish I would have just taken it to a mechanic and paid to have it done, but to late now.
Yeah... It's a nightmare! Yes, the front of the car needs to be as high as you can get it and the radiator comes in from the bottom. It's easier if you remove the 2 lower radiator mounting brackets. It's extra work, but provides a lot more room. It's a crazy, stupid, hard engineering mess. Good luck!
@@mjspiess thanks, I will jack it up and go in from under the car.
@@mjspiess I finally got a chance to work on reassembling the cooling system over the holidays and got it done. I still have to put on some of the trim, but basically done. Thanks for the video, it was a life saver.
@@joestevenson5201 You're welcome! Glad I could help!
Just bought a parts volt car that needs the front end reassembled from the motor forward. Aside from a brand new radiator and condenser, I'm having to source all the parts----which my time really won't allow. Thought I had a perfectly matched front bumper assembly, but evidently there's a difference between the gray silver and the greenish silver, which the car is. I may scuttle this project because I'm seeing that I don't have the time.
Bummer! I know what you mean though. It took me about 8 months to fully piece together my first Volt. It could have been faster, but I was really trying to keep the price down. My second Volt didn't need much body work at all, so I had that pieced together in a month. I've kinda decided moving forward I will likely stay away from crashed Volts.
@@mjspiess I would sell it back to the guy I purchased it from because he gave me a staggeringly great deal. However, I already bought a $600 bumper so he may not want to pay that, as he is a body guy. We'll see... I may keep it and just slow roll it as you did...
You’re saying it was super difficult but it doesn’t look too crazy lol. I think I’m gonna go for it. Chevy wants 2300 and they’re telling me it needs both.
You'll see... 😆 Since this video was released, another person told me if you remove the 2 lower radiator support brackets, the job is much easier. At around the 16 minute mark, you'll see these brackets. It's extra steps, but provides the extra room you need to remove the radiator and not fight with the AC condenser and transmission cooler as much. Good luck!
Yeah I just got a $2k quote too, told them to just give me the car back. It's at 150k miles, paid off, and my secondary car so I got all the time in the world to play with it
Thank you for sharing. Diz you have to go to GM to have the radiators purged of any air bubbles?
You are welcome. No I did not. I just added coolant to the tanks every day for about a week.
@@mjspiess thank you for replying. I'm delaying my radiator replacement as the dealer charges a leg for a new one. I'll order a new radiator and change it myself, following your advice and reserving plents of time for the job. Thank you again from Portugal 🙂
@@markaition you are welcome. Good luck! Yes, set plenty of time aside for the job!
@@mjspiess Allright. So yesterday my car finally failed on me! Well.. To be fair, I had at least one year notice between it started leaking a little bit to the point where the coolant would be completely gone after a couple days. So, I've ordered the engine radiator yesterday and went to pick it up today. I had part of the front already disassembled, so I figured It would take me around 4 hours to take the rest apart. It was definitely the most frustrating car I ever worked on, everything is pain to remove.. And then there's the radiator.. Ohhh man! Wasn't for your video showing how to rotate it and remove it sideways, I think I would have gone crazy! Taking that radiator off and putting the new one back in, wow.. I cannot express how frustrating it was. As I said, without this video, I would just assume it was impossible without removing the other radiators and give up, so Thank You once again! It was an 8 hours job for me, but still have another 2 ahead to re-install the headlight, bumper and other minor adjustments.
@@markaition Absolutely the single most frustrating car I have ever worked on too! I love it, but man it could have been much simpler and "mechanic" friendly. Every time I work on it, I have never once said, oh sweet, that was easy lol I'm kinda glad I'm not the only one to feel this way. I found a few pictures on a Facebook group of the radiator turned vertical that clued me in, but to even get it to turn vertical was a challenge! You're welcome for the video and I'm glad it was helpful for you. I hope to never have to do another one ever again!
Probably $1500+ at dealership? My battery/electronics radiator and the AC condensor (the next one inward) is bent in from road debri but just the battery loop is leaking. Been filling it with filtered water luckily I don't live where it really gets below freezing for much time. I just keep topping it off.
At least $1,500. That front radiator is a breeze to replace if/when you do. There are a few video tutorials on TH-cam on that one.
@@mjspiess that's good to know. I guess it depends if the mounting hardware is damaged from the hits.
When you disconnected the airbag sensors behind the upper radiator support did you disconnect the batteries or no?
Yeah, at 1:15 I talk about it and show you how to do it. It's from emptying the coolant that matters though. The air bag sensors won't care if the batteries are disconnected.
I think I have the exact same leak. How did you know it was only the engine cooling radiator and not the front most battery cooling radiator? Would you recommend just replacing both if you're going to all the trouble? Did you replace any hoses while you were in there?
Hi Bret... I am not certain, but I believe the front two reservoir tanks are for the HV Charging and Battery Cooling loops and the Passenger-side tank is for the ICE gas motor Cooling loop. In my Volt, the front coolant tanks remained full and the system never got overheated in Electric mode, but did so in Extended Range Gas Mode.
I’ve got the same problem with my battery cooling radiator…bottom damage from such little clearance I assume. So, do u think there are any temporary patch options you could have done instead of replacing the whole radiator? I just need mine fixed long enough to get my check engine light to stay off so I can get thru smog check. It’s my commute to work car and I just need this thing to get me to and from work until I can get my new car bought. I was thinking of using some JB Weld or something to patch whatever my leak is so figured I’d ask somebody who had some experience with these radiators up close. Oh, also, what radiator is the battery cooling radiator? I can tell which of the 3 do what. Thanks for any info you guys can give!
The coolant system pressurizes as it heats up, so there's not much of a good temporary patch option as things expand a bit. The hardest part is things typically need to be dry to apply anything external. I know JB weld has been used with decent success by others. The battery cooling radiator is the front one though and waaay easier to replace than the engine radiator in this video. If it's leaking from the front radiator, I would just replace it.
Chevy dealer quoted over $800 in labor to change the front radiator, so I'm tempted to do it myself. The passenger side of the front tank is the one that I have to keep topping up, which is the battery if the diagram om the Volt forum is correct.
Any risk of damage by letting itself purge the air out, or is the pump powerful enough to push any air clear?
The front radiator is quite simple and pretty much a standard replacement procedure, but does take about a week to bleed air out of the system unless you have the tool. I've done it on 2 Volts this way and didn't have any issues.
Awesome! Thanks for the reply!
3rd party shops were quoting me 7.8 hours of labor too (about $1k) but I think they don't understand the 3 radiator system and were just quoting numbers from a full or engine radiator replacement. Chevy seems to like making things difficult, even the 12v battery in my '97 Monte Carlo was a pain to change.
@@erPiccoloTotti You're welcome! Yeah, sounds like you got a quote for the main engine radiator which is a completely different beast... That took me around 8 hours to replace. It was ridiculously hard! The front radiator is pretty easy and there are a few video tutorials on TH-cam.
Thanks again for the comments. I finally worked up the nerve to swap the front radiator myself. About 2 hours to get everything apart and the new radiator installed by myself, then a friend came over and it took about an hour to put everything back together.
The only issue I have now is trying to clear the P1E00 engine code. The P1FFF code for the coolant doesn't pop up. I guess I'll have to find someone to reset the computer? There is a 3rd party shop here that did that when I swapped the battery, so hopefully can avoid the dealer again.
Thanks again!
@@erPiccoloTotti Nice! Good work!
Yeah, it may need a reprogram to get rid of that code. Some can be reset with a general scanner, but others need to be reprogrammed.
How did you bleed the system after putting it together
I just added coolant to the tanks every day for about a week. The system will naturally bleed out the air bubbles, but it just takes longer if you don't use the proper tool.
Im working on a 12 volt, I replaced the main radiator and the secondary radiator and ac condenser, all new, now the engine doesn’t run. Any ideas why that would be? All temp sensors are plugged in and good
It's hard telling without any engine codes. An OBD MX+ or something similar should get your more advanced codes.
@@mjspiess update, motor runs but white smoke out tail pipe. My assumption is the customer let it over heat , which caused damage to head gasket and now coolant in cylinder
@@baconintheoven4717 Yikes! That's a good guess with the work you just did. I've not done a head gasket on one of these. I know you can get whole engines pretty cheap on www.car-part.com.
Hey, I have a question about the Chevy Volt coolant leak issue. My volt is leaking coolant almost like a super soaker when the radiator fans start running. I've changed my water pump, thermostat n sensor, and even replaced the valve cover gasket. It almost immediately runs hot STILL and I haven't had proper heat or air at the start of these issues. Could this be like an easy fix, ie: a coolant tank replacement? I noticed the little latch on the plastic tank that stops the cap is worn completely off. And I had to replace my last tank cap because it pretty much exploded and got stuck in the tank. Also is there an easy way to flush clogs from the engine coolant line? Please and Thanks
Are you able to locate the leak? Is it squirting and then the air from the fans blow it everywhere? Running hot almost immediately leads me to believe you may have a blown head gasket. If you don't have a compression tester, some other things you can inspect is white smoke from the tailpipe, air bubbles in the coolant tank and milky residue under the oil fill cap and/or on the dipstick. However, air in the coolant system will make it seem like it's running hot too and also not allow proper heat and the car probably won't allow you to run A/C if it thinks it's overheating. Without the proper vacuum fill procedure, it can take days or even weeks to fully burp the system, but with a leak, you'll likely never get it properly burped. It sounds like you're getting excessive pressure in your coolant system to make your coolant cap explode?! You'd have to use a garden hose to try to flush a clog from the engine coolant line, but these Volts are pretty sensitive to the coolant used, so you'd want to flush just the engine side in this fashion. I would start with a compression test though, check each cylinder and see if you have a head gasket leak and go from there.
@@mjspiess I did have white smoke and I had a confirmed valve gasket cover leak. After swapping it out and changing the oil, I no longer have white smoke. I can't see the leak, but it is as you say, squirting and then the fans spray it all over. I feel like there is definitely air in the line. There's a whistling sound from the top coolant tank if I tighten the cap too much when the engine heats up, and upon cool down, the "area" behind the fans makes a squeal like air being let out of a balloon. Also, if it's worth mentioning, when changing the thermostat, I noticed a glittery, almost clay-like substance that looks alot like some kind of "quick seal". That's why I was asking about the flushing something out of the radiator. The car only starts overheating when the engine activates, so that's the line I'm worried about now. Should I just pay the dealer to flush the system? Would this also include them taking over the process of burping the system?
@@BaamBankstonTV Hmmm...seems like you kinda have a mess on your hands lol It does sound you still have air in the system based on the whistling and squealing noises heard. Maybe the previous owner put some quick seal in it due to the leaking radiator, but knew it would only leak in engine mode. Do you know the history on this Volt? The engine side is no where near as sensitive to burping as the electrical side, so you could burp the engine side like any other car. Drive it on ramps, jack up the front end or simply park it on a decline at the end of your driveway or something similar and let it run while adding coolant, but I don't think you'll get anywhere while the engine radiator is still leaking. I think I would still run a compression test to make sure you don't have a head gasket leak too. The coolant tank cap should be on as tight as it goes without any issues. I don't think the dealership will want to or maybe refuse to do a coolant flush before the radiator leak is addressed, but if you have a head gasket leak, there's no sense in doing either until the head gasket is addressed. You can get a cheap compression tester kit at Harbor Freight. I'd start there and rule out the worst case scenario first. If the compression is good, then get the radiator replaced.
Would it be easier if you first took out the front radiator first? I need a coolant change anyways but I'm trying to avoid having the refill the ac and trans.
Yes, it would be easier if you first took out the front radiator first. Exactly! I was also trying to avoid refilling the AC & transmission as well. I found one example from a Facebook group where the guy discovered if you remove both lower main radiator support brackets, you are able to remove JUST the main radiator leaving the front radiator, transmission cooler & AC condenser in place. I was surprised, but the pictures didn't lie lol!
I'm hopeful I never have to do this repair again, but if I do, I will try that method of removing the two lower radiator support brackets to see if it's that much easier. I think it's 3-5 more bolts on each side, but gives you a LOT more space to drop the radiator.
@@mjspiess Awesome! Thanks for the video and the quick reply. I just ordered my radiator so I will be trying it soon.
@@TheYonderGod You're welcome! Good luck! Hopefully you'll report back with a success story and be able to enlighten us on whether or not removing the lower radiator support brackets are a game changer. At around 16:30 of my video you get a clear picture of what the brackets look like and I can imagine if they were not there, the main radiator would pretty much fall straight down.
@@mjspiess Got it done, I pulled it out the bottom and it was still difficult and I damaged the fins on my new rad. It was probably a little bit easier though. The worst part is the area on the bottom right with the trans cooler lines. Maybe a good idea to think about removing the trans cooler and just leave the ac condenser.
@@TheYonderGod Thanks for the update. Nice work on getting it done yourself! Saved you lots of money!
How do you loosen the clips that hold the front bumper in place. Where it meets the next panel behind the tires?
I'm not quite sure what you mean. I made this video too. Maybe this will help you? th-cam.com/video/qcltF1dz-tE/w-d-xo.html
@@mjspiess no I got the bumper off. But I took a sawsall to the old radiator to get it out. The new will slide in easy. I thot my caddillac radiator was bad!
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains Lol! Yeah man, this radiator is horrendous. Glad you got it though. I found some guy on a Facebook group that removed the lower radiator support brackets and was able to remove the radiator more easily. I hope I never have to try again, but will remember to try it.
@@mjspiess got the old one out and the new one in.now just got get everything in the right place.i just hope I didn't damage anything in the process. GM loves to cram everything in a tight space. Remember the old caddillac 4.9 transverse with the water pump squeezed in there!
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains Nice work! Yeah, hopefully no leaks, etc. when you get it all reassembled. For sure. The Volt is really tight and hard to work on. Thankfully, I never had the pleasure to work on the old Cadillac!
I felt your pain watching this I did the same job today on my volt!! Painful
Yes, it was by far the worst radiator replacement I've ever experienced! Hopefully my video helped though. Good luck!
@Dimetri777 Ugh... I feel you! It is an absolute pain! Apparently you can remove the 2 lower radiator brackets and it gives you a lot more room to get everything together. It's some extra steps, but from what I read, it may be worth it. At the 16 minute mark, you can see one of the lower radiator brackets. With that out of the way, you can work vertically and not at such an angle since those brackets would be out of the way. Good luck!
@Dimetri777 Yep, those are the lower radiator brackets. Oh, I see. Yes, getting it high enough is a challenge as well. At the end of my video, I give some tips on getting it back together. Not sure if you watched until the end, but it might help?
@Dimetri777 Yeah, I think I got it as high as my floor jack allowed. Oh yeah...it's by far the worst job I've ever taken on too. Such a terrible design and unnecessary to have it all slotted/fitted together like that. It's definitely a puzzle. I can remember, but I think I ground off or just broke off some tabs because they weren't necessary to hold everything together and it made it easier to slide into place. It's a mess for sure though! I was so happy to be done with it! I had the service manual, so that helped, but I had no idea how bad it really was going to be. It would definitely be easier removing the AC condenser and transmission cooler radiator, but I didn't want to mess with refilling either. Ugh... Love the car, but terrible design!
@Dimetri777 Totally agree. I've owned a fleet of cars over the years and this Volt is by far the most difficult to work on and it doesn't seem like it needs to be this way lol I still love it though!
Good heavens, no wonder the estimate I got for this job today included $1,100 for labor! Hopefully I'll be whipping out the card to pay for it soon and get my baby back.
Yeah... It's a pretty nasty job and the high labor rate makes sense after I did it myself. Hopefully you have a nice loaner in the meantime?
@@mjspiess Nah, I didn't ask for one, I'm good riding my motorcycle since the weather's good
@@MostlyHarmless68 Nice! I just took a trip with a friend in his Polaris Slingshot through the Tail of the Dragon in Tennessee. If you haven't been, it's a great experience. 318 curves in 11 miles!
Mine leaked intermittently for months, now it's full on gushing though. Weirdest thing, it would drive fine for weeks, then suddenly dump all it's coolant
Same, but mine never gushed out and it only leaked while the engine was running, but not every time. It was kinda hard to diagnose.
Does someone have any experience with aftermarket brands like nrf, nissens? Do they fit without issues, because you cant Order it at gm at the moment.
I got mine from RockAuto. Not sure what the brand was, but it was not OEM and it fit fine.
I'd have pulled the whole stack together, rather recharge the AC and refill the trans fluid than fight with that crap. Getting the rad back in will be even more of a pita, maybe put some cardboard on both sides and tape it until you have it in place so you don't damage the core wrestling with it.
After completing the job, it definitely would have been easier to pull it all out together and refill the systems.
Good video. It is an ugly job. But I think I did it an easier way. I didn’t remove the headlight or fender well. I started top down and removed the front fascia. I didn’t break into the HV battery cooling system. I removed the AC condenser, and I removed the radiator support brackets, which allowed me to pull the radiator out the bottom. Time between AC radiator coming out, radiator out and back in, and AC condenser back in was less than 30 minutes. That is not how the factory shop manual does it. I didn’t want to break into the HV cooling because I didn’t have the tools to properly refill the system. It needs to be vacuum filled because it’s pump isn’t strong enough to push air bubbles through the battery. If you get air in, and don’t get it out, you risk local overheating of the battery.
Thank you. It is an ugly job. Thanks for the tips. I hope to never have to do it again! Another person told me about removing the lower radiator support brackets and said it was easier that way as well. I've done the HV radiator before and didn't have any issues without the tools to properly refill the system on 2 Volts, but I didn't want to have to refill the AC system or mess with the transmission fluid and cooler.
Wheres the Petcock drain?
There isn't one. The service manual says to drain the coolant by removing the coolant temperature sensor on the lower passenger side. At 4:10 I start talking about the procedure.
Well the radiator is gonna be drained cuz its leaking down there as it is. It looks like its coming from the bottom leaking around the plastic piece. Gonna be a fun job!
If I ever need to do this shit on my volt I'll definitely have my mechanic replace ALL of them. No way you want to pay twice for the labor.
In hindsight, it definitely would have been easier to at least remove the transmission cooler radiator. It was a terrible job to leave everything in tact. If I had to do it all over again, I would either remove the transmission cooler or grind off a couple of the tabs/slots in the plastic housing that holds them all together.
So from looking at he video, It looks like 3 radiators and a condenser. That all looks like a nightmare. From a scale of 1 to 10, how easy would you say this repair is. I just did a radiator replacement on my TL and it nothing this complicated. Is this even worth getting a volt.
Correct. It was a nightmare lol! Man...it was by far the most difficult radiator replacement I've ever done. Although, I spoke to someone else who recently did this job and he said if you remove the two lower radiator support brackets, you don't have to remove the front radiator or the others in fact and it creates more room to drop it down from below. Regardless, I would say this was an 8 or 9/10 on difficulty. Definitely 10/10 when it comes to a radiator replacement. I wouldn't want to do it again, but now I'm curious to see how much easier it is with the lower brackets removed.
I agree removing from the bottom is the fastest and best option. Took 45min. To pull out. Mind you that's on ramps if on a lift it would much faster.
@@mjspiess When replacing the radiator, it helps to replace each water pump. These pumps will leak eventually. But, if you're only fixing the car to flip it, just fuhggettaboutit and sell it. Let the buyer beware.
@@roymariano7116 Thanks for the tip! I've always been in the camp, "replace it when it goes bad."
I have to go to have my engine coolant loop checked after hitting a small animal in the dark and now its leaking. I hope its a simple fix and not this fix. What the hell was GM thinking....an engineering mess but that seemsto be what come like. Wow.. Told my bro I am just going to see what the dealer can do knowing and hearing about this labor mess that it requires.
The Problem is the very poor design..😅
And this is the main radiator who holds all the other radiators.
I also Dremeled the tabs and managed to replace it whithout draining the ac and transmission cooler..
P.S.
If it was my own car....
I would plasma cut the bumper bar.. and after replacing weld it Together...
It's really a Pain to replace It...
But The Front one is very Easy to remove..
And very important Use the right coolant If you don't You've Got High voltage messages on your screen..
That's why this one radiator cap is sealed..
Because if you put In The Wrong coolant...
You could potentially fry out your high Voltage battery system...
So use: De ionized water don't use tap water, because It does conduct electricity...😅
Your experience and tips are invaluable, especially for anyone else tackling this job.
The design is definitely flawed, particularly with the main radiator holding all the others. It's incredibly annoying and very unnecessary. Your workaround with the Dremel to avoid draining the AC and transmission cooler is quite resourceful and time saver. And I can see why you'd consider plasma cutting the bumper bar for easier access-sometimes, a more drastic approach can save a lot of hassle. If/when I have to do this again, someone else mentioned removing the lower radiator support "horns" and it makes it easier to access the main radiator.
Your advice about using the right coolant is crucial. Using deionized water instead of tap water to avoid conductivity issues and potential damage to the high voltage battery system is a great tip. It's clear that the sealed radiator cap is there for a very good reason!
@@mjspiess Thanks for your Positive command,
I really appreciate that. 👍🏻⚡😉⚡👍🏻
@@rickstevens2941 You're welcome!
I just got this service done and it was expensive....and now I just found this video as my car overheats again from them now saying the fans don't work and charging literally the same price to do the radiator again....ive own the car for a little over a year. I really liked this car but the design of the radiator system is very off-putting to me.
Yeah, it's an incredibly frustrating job. Geez! Do you have any check engine light codes? Maybe there is another problem? I don't know why they would replace the radiator again if they confirmed the fans weren't working? I've driven my 2013 a little over 21k miles and it's been mostly trouble free. I did had to replace the front radiator which was easy and water pump which wasn't as easy, but I do agree...the radiator systems are pretty frustrating. Good luck on yours. Great cars, but costly when it comes to repairs...
Fetch A Wrench honestly I like the car too but the dealerships here are wonky….I’m not sure what to exactly do but I did sub to your channel as I enjoy the content
@@kumaSOevl Yeah, I've heard some horror stories regarding Volts and dealerships. Unfortunately, it takes some extra competence to work on these Volts and there's usually only one...maybe two techs that are certified in doing so, but even they are sometimes a crap shoot. I'm no tech, but spent a fair amount of time reading and researching various issues the Volt has and have learned a lot. You're kinda in a tough spot. I'd check the fuses to the fans or make sure they are plugged in, but if not, you'd likely get a Check Engine Light. It's kinda odd they'd just fail. Does it only overheat while idling? If it's truly a fan issue, the coolant should cool down while driving as air moves through the radiator.
Fetch A Wrench I’m not sure I drive it straight to the dealer after the light came on. I’ve been driving exclusively on electric this past year. Maybe it’s time to go full EV. Honestly if it’s not a play car I hate pumping gas now lol
Terrible design.
No cross member beam to protect the radiator.
Driving over a chuck of styrofoam will immobilize the entire car.
Agreed. Incredibly frustrating design!
That's exactly what killed the 460K mile Volt guy's car (on TH-cam). Check his video out. He said he ran over a Semi Truck tire and destroyed radiators and other components in the undercarriage. Said his car was on its way to 500K trouble free miles and never the same after the insurance company fixed the car
@@mike_t_007 that is a major shame! I just rolled over 180k miles on my 2013 model. I sold the 2012 I did this radiator replacement on.